Field journal : Archbold 1936 New Guinea Exp. February 27, 1936 to July 8, 1937

Tate, G. H. H. (George Henry Hamilton), 1894-1953; American Museum of Natural History; American Museum of Natural History. Department of Mammalogy. Archbold Expeditions Collection; Archbold Expedition to New Guinea (2nd: 1936-1937)
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Travel Scientific expeditions Mammals Description and travel Tate G. H. H. (George Henry Hamilton)

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644 Pages
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The geology of the Black River area, (July 1st, 1834) at Palma Camp. I in contrast to what occurs at Palma Junction camp area, Q base of limestone (seemingly non-fossiliferous) is disclosed along almost all of the stream-beds. That limestone appears in the bed of the Palma at and below camp and upstream at all of the principal forks. In the beds of the two main tributaries of the creek just west of camp, and in the creek bed proper, where water cutting has channelled the limestone to a depth of at least four feet. The overlying material along the river and its floodplains is composed of sills, clays, lignites in formation and occasional lenses of gravel or shingle. Beyond the range of influence of the river, however, the limestone lies beneath a considerable thickness (up to 200 feet) of clay or sandstone conglomerate, whose pebbles, for the most part rounded, comprise quartz, yellow older sandstone and a fine-grained, rather hard each of shale-like rock. Some of the above mentioned pebbles break up into angular fragments. The gravel bars in the Palma contain include pebbles of quartz, a tonblende granite, a blackish flinty rock with (?) change into block form, hard sandstone, fossiliferous and non-fossiliferous limestones (chiefly corals), the hard yellow staley rock alluded to in the previous paragraph, a micro-conglomerate-like rock containing what look like feldspar crystals (possibly this is really igneous).
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II at the Idea on the Geology of the [illegible] Palmer River Clamp area Z/Z The Black & Palmer River Areas sand bar Island Ridge 1 (Camp ridge) garden [illegible] Ridge 2 (Garden Ridge) overlying th limestone, clay deposits so far discovered with the exception of included pobbles, appears to be very recent. The sandstones are friable & uncemented, the clays are almost all unconsolidated, and the lignite is yet worthy - so much so that spines of [illegible] stand out free in the laminae. Slight folding with E-W strike may be actual, or the recent beds may have been laid down on earlier folds which erosion (caypit) is again uncovering. The seeming strike of the local ridges is parallel with the big mountain system 30 miles to the north. The apparent accompanies discontent of general E-W strikes of the ridges is supported by the E-W Courses of the Black River, Eleena River,
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Notes made from Stanley's map, 1/4 while in Port Moresby, Dec. 1932 1. Lower Fly alluvium appears to be recent in age and from its deltaic coast line and the remnants of the 100-fathom line to be [illegible] rained sea bottom or else penplum possibly continues across the Torres Straits with Cape York. Mabaclean Hill, granite, may well be a bathylith exposed by removal of overcovering rocks in remote times. Airi Hill and Rikni may also be bathyliths. The above [illegible] warped area appears to extend to and end at the Purari River, beyond which the coast line becomes straight, but note that the 100-fathom line approaches the coast only at Yule Island. Low hills are indicated at Eveill Junction on either side the Fly-Struckland. Their geology is apparently unknown. Look for change in rocks of Murchend region (zoological evidence) The entire lower Fly + Torres area may be old penplum when basal rocks are shrouded by new alluvium, the northern part slightly upwarped, the southern portion downwarped to form the Torres Straits. The hills at Eveill Junction perhaps represent part of the chain warping.
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Notes from Stanley's map Feb 3 '6 2/4. 2. Note that the only Eocene rocks in N.G. lie just east of the Fly River by the Elelenla River and Macrosson Island. somewhere west of 3. Stretching from the headwaters of Fly + Strickland to Kikori a huge series of lime sediments indicate the former presence of a large geosyncline which existed (?) from Turassic (beds at Obrewotini bend on Strickland) time until Pliocene time (beds at upper Fly + Strickland and small series just west of Kikori). Geosyncline probably extended throughout Purari-Kerema region (rocks Plio-Miocene). The large mass of extrusives centering on Mt. Harene- are probably recent and may have provided the bediments covering the Plio-Miocene beds between Kikori and the Purari delta. At the end of Pliocene the geosyncline may have been filled up and the uplift movement northwest of Kikori have been initiated. The connection of the geosyncline with the ocean may have been at either end - in Dutch N.G. or though the Kikori area. At that time the lower Fly plain may well have been continuous with Australia.
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The immediate neighbourhood of Port Moresby strongly resembles a drowned coastline. The arches are very old sedimentary, short full of gypsum or infiltrated material and appear not to be very resistant to weathering. At the same time the great mass of the Astrolabe just behind P. Moresby is recent volcanic. Therefore perhaps the coastline sank (from loading?) at about the same time or just following the formation of the Astrolabe extrusions. At sea the fall is comparatively steep, the 100 fathom line being about 12 miles off shore. The islands clearly are drowned hill tops. If the age of Mt Faren and Yule and Astrolabe lands in Pleistocene and the topography of these regions and of the great limestone belt to the north is comparatively youthful then the greater part of the uplift of the geosyncline, wrapping the Torres area and sinking of the Moresby crant may well have taken place at one land and the same eon, namely during the Pleistocene.
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Notes from Stanley's map Feb 36 (ay) 4/4 5 If the above remarks are even approximately near the truth the area lying north + north west of the Terana Plain would have functioned as a barrier against the range of the Australian faunas which was at that time ranging into the southern part of Western Division. This is not the case. The similarity of the Moesby fauna to that of the lower Fly area and north Queensland and the recent discovery of Nototherium in southeast New Guinea suggests that the exposed Torre penplain was joined across the stellar 'Gulf' to the Lehekame, Angatunga and Saloki plains. The animals which show the above type of distribution today are: Macropus agilis, Doodon moesbyensis, Rattus brachyrimus, Wromys validus. On the other hand birds + plants offer no substantiate of the above view.
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"Topographic notes on the Headwater Region of the Fly River (with map)" 1/10 One of the chief products of the Archbold expedition to New Guinea has been the careful checking and completion of the observations and maps of earlier explorers of the upper reaches of the Fly River with elimination of a number of geographical synonyms. This work has been enormously facilitated by the cordial cooperation of Mr. Leo Austin and Dr. Claude Champin, two of the original observers, who have not only put their field notes and knowledge at my disposal but also gave considerable time to the interpretation of those notes. The men who explored and mapped the region under discussion are Sir William MacGregor, Mr. Leo Austin, Messrs. Davies and C.H. Ivan Champin, and the members of the 1936 Archbold Expedition which worked under the auspices of the American Museum of Natural History, New York. D'Albertis 1. Macgregor, Sir W. Ann. Rep. British New Guinea. 1889-90 pp. 43-64 2. Austin, L. Geogr. Journ. LXII, 1925, pp. 325-349 (Tedi R.); J. and Proc. Austral. Hist. Soc. XI, 1926, pp. 251- (Extent of D'Albertis voyage); Geogr. Journ., LXVII, pp. 434-441 (Tully R.) 3. Davies, C.H., over
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2/10 Topo Notes 3 Harris, C.H. Surg. Jourm. LXXIV, 1929, pp. 305-322; Clampin, [illegible] E (book). As regards the Archbold expedition, Several flights by over the mountains forming the source of the Fly River and its upper tributaries gave a splendid opportunity to gain a broad grasp of the general geography of the area before going into the rougher country on foot. In fact it was the regrettable loss of the plane alone It capsizes at anchor in Pat morely lagoon prevented us from securing seda for our failure to become much [illegible] more extensive geographical data. The map published by Macgregor, who had with him Mr J.B. Cameron a qualified surveyor, has been used as a base on which to place newly observed data. To that map Austin and Harris made successfully additions and alterations to the while preserving the general course of the Fly (and higher up of the Palmer) River as far as the "607-mile" mark on the
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latter river. Messrs M.J. Healy and A. Willis took a series of bearings from a number of stations in the catchment basin of the Palmer and at our camp at "Black Puir Camp". My first move was to plot in those bearings over Karnus's map and change the position of several features which were clearly out of their true places. The corrected plan agreed well with the rough sketches earlier prepared after completion of the aerial reconnaissance work. Incidentally, Mr Claude Champin accompanied us on some other flights and pointed out various rivers and mountains until our base was left behind. On returning to Dunedin I met Mr Les Austin, who was so kind as to go into the matter very thoroughly with me. I also plotted the bearing published by Macgregor, and being reasonably sure that I recognised the position of the two stations from which his bearings were taken. Now bearings if "true" coincided very exactly with features on the map which I had
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Topo Notes 4/10 Selecting from the drums earlier, from a wealth of original sketches, notes + bearings I was able to do likewise with Austin's work on his Tedi River trip. The results are interesting in that a number of named topographical features are now found to be wholly or partly synonymous: Victor Emmanuel Range. This name was first used by D'Albertis for - By Macgregor it was used (p. 55) first in much the same vague sense as by D'Albertis. Subsequently (p. 59) he describes under its were briefly described and component parts, the "nearer chain" agrees well with our Sabé (=) the more distant was (I believe) but farin of the Dap Range (Champion). Macgregor illustrated both in his "plate no. 2" giving them bearings which exactly coincide with our mapped position of the eastern end of Sabé and nearby with Champion Karius's Mt Farin. But before Karius entered the region Austin had applied names to MacGregor's text + plate, calli
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"the 'nearer range' (or [illegible] end of Mt. Saw) Macgregor Peaks and the 'more distant' (or Mt. Jean) D'Albertis Dome. But returning again to Macgregor's concept of the Victor Emmanuel Range, we read (p. 60) that the Victor Emmanuel Range lay directly behind a lower range which he called Mt. Donaldson. "In between the north-east end of Mt. Donaldson and the Victor Emmanuel there is fitted the bold western end of a very steep & rugged mountain range" (named by him Mt. Blucher), and "a large branch of this mountain [Blucher] proceeds for about its central portion in a north-easterly direction [i.e. Mt. Tungom]... but whether it joins the great Victor Emmanuel Range farther north couldn't be seen." He states that his "plate 4 indicates the appearance of the foregoing from a distance of 'twenty- twenty-five miles'; but when the ranges which according to the drawing are plotted it would prove to have been much closer; and besides, see also a few sentences before, he states that Donaldson was 'about ten miles' away. From "plate 4" it seems that the mass of hills to the west marked "a" & carrying a
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bearing of 334° is part of Pare and represents the approach slopes of Macpays Peak (Austin); the single hill next, also marked 'a' corresponds in bearing with the isolated conical hill Mnt. Karik (Karrik); [illegible] the long, distant range, again marked 'a' is, I believe, a part of the Dap Range; and the faintly indicated distant range beyond Mnt Blucher between 34° & 38° indicates the connection of Blucher with the Dap by way of Mnt Turgom. The assumption is necessary in dealing with Macpays's published work that the bearings shown on his diagrams are 'true'. If they were magnetic, and the bearing for the western tip of Blucher were thus 16° 'true' instead of 20° the ray from would in no place approach the Palmer River closer than one and a half miles, whereas it is clear from his text that the views were had from the river itself. Taking the foregoing facts into consideration I feel convinced that the Victor Emanuel River was nearly Macpays was equivalent to the 9000-foot Dap range with
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it's high join D'Albertis Dome (= Mt Dami), plus the 8000-ft range Mt Lyons (= Mt Saré, the man-of-war mountain of Champin's account). That Macpugor [illegible] D'Albertisor if [sic] could have seen the range beyond the Dap Range and the Stuckled river which Paris marks "Victor Emmanuel" on his map seems to me improbable. And the spur range of the Chattleburg into on which Paris has bestowed the name D'Albertis Dome is [illegible]. And Paris's use of "D'Albertis Dome" for the spur range of the Chattleburg into east of 142° and north of 5° is obviously erroneous, since it lies about 25° east of Macpugor's ray for the real "D'Albertis Dome". But even though the above arguments be substantially correct, the names Victor Emmanuel and Dap have [illegible] come very generally for the ranges to the north and south of the Stuckled River, and considering that we shall never know just what range or combination of ranges were called by D'Albertis "Victor Emmanuel", it would cause much needless
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confusion to suggest any change at this date. but In regard to Sare(= Mt. Lyons (part), = Macguyon Peaks (part), = Kaban Range (part) tho situation is different. Dr. Austin, among whose sketches are numerous others definitely recognizable as depicting that Sare, informs me that his intention when using was that the name Lyons should apply to the massif itself -- the largest, most imposing mountain of the northern skyline. Instead it became localized to one part of Sare, to one of the major foothill ranges reaching out from its southern end (map, p. 436). The name Mt Lyons was proposed by him in due course (p. 439), but a few lines beyond he suggested the name MacGwyn Peaks for the western of the two mountain masses shown by Macguyon on his "plate no. 2", but, as stated earlier, Mac Gwyn's western mountain mass represents the eastern end of Mt Sare, rather Austin actually renamed a part
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"His arm" Lyons. The usage of "Saro" and Kabon dates only from Karius's report (1929). Mr. Austin who is conversant with the steps of this inquiry expressed the wish that his name "Lyons" be extended to the usage the "Lyons Range" (see map p. ). If that proceeding were sanctioned then only Int. Saro, my call could be treated as a pure synonym, and Kabon, Wuni, Macgyn Peaks, Karik and Doreldson would refer to special portions of the Lyons Range. Regarding the names D'Albertis Dome (Austin) and Fain (Karius) refer unquestionably in my opinion to the same mountain, and the former has priority over the latter. Quote; Macgryn "On the 19th... in the forenoon we passed a large branch nearly 100 yds wide, which entered on the right bank. This tributary I have named the Doreldson river ..." . Again "on the morning of the 20th .... a large branch sixty- or seventy yards broad entered the river with the left bank... this affluent I have named the Block River ... " has Macgryn spent a lot of the time intervening used in party from the Doreldson River
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To the Block in examining native houses, so it is inprobable that more than six hours of actual travel are involved. The position of this Black River is not in the least in doubt, and the only large river entering the Palmer on the right bank is the Tully (or Wai Mie). Our domptures from the Block to the Tully is: Black R - to our camp by boat (low river) 15 minuts; our camp to overmap Bivouac (low river) 2 1/2 hours; from Bivouac to Tully (flooded river) 1/2 hour. Total a little over 3 hrs. And in view of these facts there exists no possibility of doubt that the names Donaldson and Tully refer to the same river. Having gone over certain parts of the tracks followed by Karies and Champin, I have been able to recognize several features among their topographical photographs to which attention was not drawn in the captions, and knowing the approximate position from which a given picture was made I have been able to insert those photographs with the map. Thus: -
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The Fly River. 1. Discovery - naming. 2. History of Exploration - D'Albertis, McPherson, Dr Guerin. Everill - Cowling - Dann Magistrates - Austin & Thompson - Elersola trip. Harris T. Thompson - Smyer. 3. Basin - Area - Volume water, chief tributaries; Depth - Current - Annual variat. Climate. Tides - Bae. - Water (characteristics). Lagoons. 4. Selwyn - County archs - antecedent or subsequent - Wettedbeds - Warping - Current variations & Hold-back Artes. Age of present system - Islands Crd banks - Pebbles - lignites - Cataplis - Oil Bed. 5. Vegetation - Zoology. 6. Tran. 7. Map. Carlaw Observations Brendis Exped. C.E. Line-Porte Report. The Forest Resources of the Terr. of Papua & New Guinea. Park. Geol. Australia 1925 Victoria E.R. Stanley Central Geol. Paper, Bull. No 7 1921. C.T. White A contribution to our knowledge of the flora of Papua Stanley - Report on Divest. of the unexplored mountain regions between the Trucis & Kapi; 1923 Home Terr. Dept. Melbourne- " Sel. exped across Owen Stanley Range. Ann Rept, Papua. 1917-18 p. 75 a Report on Geol & Nat Resources - a report to League of Nations on the Administration of New Guinea TG 21-22 - Gov Printer Victoria
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IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK, N.Y. 1936 NEW GUINEA EXPEDITION RICHARD ARCHBOLD, Leader and Pilot A. L. RAND, Ornithologist and Assistant Leader G. H. H. TATE, Mammalogist L. J. BRASS, Botanist R. R. ROGERS, Pilot and Mechanic EWING C. JULSTEDT, Radio Operator FIELD HEADQUARTERS: DARU, W.D., PAPUA Austin's reports: - 1. The Tedi (1925) - 1921-22 (map p.339). 2. The Tully R. (1926) - 1924- 3. D'Alberti (commentary) (1925) (4. The Delta Division) (1934). Star Mts. (See Austin I.(above) forthwith under p. 349.) Possible correlations Austin's "Mt Blueck" = OK. "" "Mt Donaldson" = Mt Karik or western tip Saré "" "Mt Lyons" = Eastern tip of Saré "" "Mt Wuni" = Southern projection of Saré "" "Mt Warr" (E. wetz Hill) = Middle area or possibly the western end "" "D'Alberti Dome" = western tip of Saré no. = bears slightly east of Mt Daim. Top it may be central Saré D'Alberti Dome is the block J.Saré forming its E. and Mc Gregor Peaks equal Central & Western Saré
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The Geography of the Fly River Region, New Guinea. Introduction Chief Divisions of the River The Strickland River Water party Recent Earth movements and adaptations Rock exposures Limestone fossils Post miocene history Tertiary fossil beds Economic mineralogy Climate with seasonal changes in river level Rats of flora Strahan Island possibly an old mouth of Fly. Relationship of Cebu to S. N.G. Moresby a subtidal area. Drowned Coast, the Coal Sea deep. Barrier reefs The mountains of Strickland - Fly - Descript. Mola Eocene rocks Jurassic at Observation Point Strickland Mt Davene Latitudes Black diagram of inter-area. Deposits at Palmer Town overlying limestone
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In three months the expedition used more than fifty pounds of soap. During those first days at the upper base the tea end of the rainy season was still a factor. After lovely mornings and noon hours the clouds would break. up in the east, great rolling cumuli mountaineering around the south tip of the mountain and to the tune of the roll of thunder, the storm came rushing over the tree tops. The wind lashed and tore at our canvas, and the rain drove through the whole camp, while the frequent "snick, snick" of nearby lightning warned us that it was still dangerous. Inherent in such tempests, When a storm was approaching we [illegible] grounded our wireless aerial. A [illegible] ungrounded aerial or receiver even ground wire attached is easily wrecked by lightning. The first day when Cardone and I were fixing the antenna, white thunder growled in the distance, the wires had been pulled up with a running line over the radio pole only a few seconds before I took the end of the lead-in in my hand to connect with the receiver. It gave me quite a severe shock, having in that short space of time picked up a heavy charge of static electricity. Cardone used to fuss all day long with his radio. When he was not dealing with the Areuna Indians -- paying them for services rendered, dealing out Aprsom salts or castor oil, measuring rice, cassave and cans of beef -- he took took them out, he changed tubes and manipulated batteries. In fact he indulged in a perfect orgy of those activities characteristic of the radio fanatic. But all our doings at the upper base were only preliminaries. Inevitably sooner or later conversations worked around to the main problems: the condition of the trail, the details of transport, the size and membership of the first party to go up, but particularly we speculated upon the geology, vegetation and the animals a bird would be discovered on the plateau, whose altitude above sea-level was still unsettled. [illegible].
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1 Introduction - Historical - Climate. 2 Chief Divisions of the mine 3 The Strickland River 4 Waterparties 5 Detailed observations at: a. The limestone mountains - Rock diptera. b. Black River. c. Palmer River. d. Lake Davuimbu. e. Stuart Island Camp. f. Darn. g. Strucka Island. h. Sundry exposures. 6 Aerial observations 7 Regional relationships 8 Biology - life zones. a Zool Bot. b Zool. 9 Man - exotic. b aboriginal 10 Summary. 11 Bibliography. Jurassic Eocene Miocene - Limestone fossils Pleistocene - Laterites Recent Earth movements - Vulcanism Strucka Island. Am & Coral Sea - reefs. Post Tertiary History. Economic mineralogy
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transfix a hummingbird as it hovered in front of a flower. The 1100 meter camp, as we came to call it, stood in a savanna nearly a mile in length and perhaps a quarter of a mile wide. The camp had been used before our arrival by Gardone, Henry and Jimmy Angel. Angel had had a short runway for his Flamengo plane along the smooth part of the savanna, but the field was found on pacing it off to be much too short for use by the big plane that flew us in from Ciudad Bolivar. All the northern side of the savanna was margined by the tall forest in which I had my traps set. The southern sides edged by a narrow marsh across which came savannas, deep ravines and forest-clad hills. From the middle of the savanna you looked northwards over the forest at the steep, fire-swept slopes leading up to the enormous cregy cliffs that guarded the Auyan-tepui plateau. Gardone pointed out the precise crevice up which he and Henry months earlier had contrived to ascend. He showed also a crack farther east which they had tried and abandoned after following it into the sandstone for some distance. Bill Couture began to complete battery that at the rate the peons and Indians were tucking into the food supplies we should all be starving in a month. We found too a definite let-down in the behavior of one of them to be precise even Hector. Hector had been playing "old soldier" for some days, making the most of a swollen leg which had developed on the way up from the air field. That something was really wrong with his leg was evident. So he was given light duties such as washing laundry. Any way the food issue was more closely watched. Speaking of camp laundry, the number of shirts, trousers and socks used daily by six or seven is perfectly astonishing. About a cake of soap is consumed every day by them and they get the clothes only half clean. Hector daily by the Laundry boy and then they get the clothes only half clean. Hector and Fernando, the latter a relative of Gustavo Henry's trip, and owner of an enormous broad brimmed hat, were detailed to do the washing, but they proved a pretty worthless pair. And later when Gardone was compelled for domestic reasons to leave us they went out with him.
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W.T. In consid sun bel-- p.s.p undertake to convey 200 cubic yards of "sandy loan" for old lot road - and spread same at with the following terms: 1. Provide permits - 2. Work subject to main lining contract - 3. Smooth finish - edges not to net soil. 4. Responsibility for injury to soil pipes, water tank, septic system shall rest with p.s.p. 5. The grade of road left level. In in consid I satisfy for the sum of $150 shall be paid -- Subject to further provision while follows: 1. Approval. non approval work corrected cost of. water tank 2. Any injury to sewage system, tree or shrub - shall be deducted from the said $ 150 3. Work shall be completed by may 26th, If contract incomplete or that half whole contract shall be void nor shall any claim be preferable for a portion of work done
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"In consideration only of the completion of the work hadled under separate contract, in which the party of 2nd parts indentures to remove 200 cu yds soil bordering on ice pond and to spread same and house, this additional contract be here entered into. P.S. 2d parties to remove sufficient additional soil (to produce a lake at the site of the old ice pond whose sides shall conform with the natural slope of the former ice pond and its dirt embankment, if a water depth of one foot below the level of the present spillway. And join to present spillway the said side also be packed with even slopes to conform to that of the said slopes of ice pond. But adjacent the boundary line of the adjy property, now the property of C.P.B. Decker the sides shall be vertical. And Subject to the completion of the other described works in a manner satisfactory to the part of 1st party; the said P.S. shall p.g to 2d parties, the sum hereby set but this may not become due until after the p.f.p. shall be approved the work.
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B.M. Fossil Rodents (Indo-Australian). Extant collections from near Borneo, coll. Everett. R. exulans — New Caledonia — north limit known. varius - Rattus, Coriilurus, willington Coorus N.S.W. also Mestacomyx " " " Fish R. cavernis, Blue Mtas, N.S.W.
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BM. fossil Palate Teph. Saccolaminis Taw. M 2964 Madres, narrow V palate. Hippidens didens
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B.M. fossil. Pseudocheirus condylolobus - With R. Correns, Blue Mtns NSW. M.10063. mx with m^x m^Y m(alveolar)^Z. Front of m^Y beneath 249.158R. m^x 4.5 x 3.6} tooth movable - Teeth m^Y 4.2 x 3.6} unmineralised, enamel. M 3651 mx with p^4 & m^1. Wellington Valley Caves NSW. p^4 3.2 x 2.35} unmineralised unworn. m^1 4.4 x 3.6 } Large series of Macropodidae. Sort Lot Oepy gymnasium wellington valley - M.10062 Few bandicoots & Dasyurus one Phascogale or Sminthopsis All material appear virtually the same as recent stuff.
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NOTES Letter No. P Bats (front) 24 3, 6, 16 Bats (most) 24 16 Dobsonia 14 4 17 3 Dorcopsis 24 3, 6, 19, 20 Echimypera 24 19 Hipposideros 24 10 Hydromys 24 6 Leptomys 24 7, 18 Lorentzimys 17 10 Macroglossus 17 6 19 4 Macropusbrunii 24 6 Mammals on Fergusson Isl. 26 6 Melomys 2254-6 17 5 2265 24 1, 3, 7, 19, 20 2263 Nyctimene 17 3 18 2 Phalanger 24 16 Phascogale 26 6, 9 Rat (New) 25 11 Rattus 24 18 Rhinolophus 24 10 Uromys 24 7, 8, 9, 10 Tides Daru 12 2 Fly R. above Madiri 16 3 Sturt Isl. 24 4, 7, 12, 14, 15,16,17,18 21. Tarara 25 12, 13. Gija 25 15
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Gijse 25 25 Tarsis 18* 18. 24* 7* 15* 14* 12* 16* 17* 18 ST. 3 Dern 15 Titiles Uromys 24 Rhynohophinae 24 Rattus 24 Rat (New) 25 Plascocaje 26 Phalanger 24 Myctimene 18 17 Molomys S252-6 S265 S265 24 17 Mammals on Ferguson Isl. 26 Macropodiformi 24 Macrofolossa 19 17 Lorentziinae 17 10 Iepomys 24 Hydromys 24 Hippoposideros 24 Echimypera 24 Dorcopatae 24 3* 6* 18* 50 2 4 Dolomina 24 17 2* 6* 18 NOTES Letter No. P (rom) Baja (front) Baja
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Geology Letter No. Page Rona Falls 9 2,3 Yule Isl. 10 2 Daru 10 S4A, 5 Leonard Murray Mts. 12 5,6 Banks of Orioma R. 13 1 Dogwra 18 2 Mabaduane 13 4 14 1,2,3 Fairfax Isls 16 4 Shore of Fly (5-9-36 16 6 (over) 7,8 Above Proville Camp 16 11 5 mi. below Palmer Junct 16 13 17 2,8,12,13 Palmer and Black R. Camp 18 5,8, (8 fossils) 11 19 5 Flight to Mts. 20 1,2 Trail to Mabion 7-4-36 21 1,2 7-6-36 5,6 7-7-36 6,7 7-8-36 21 7,8,9,10 7-9-36 9.10. West Mabion 7-15-36 21 16 Proville Camp 8-13-36 21 35 L. Diviumba 9-1-36 23 10 Stuart Isl. 24 1,4,8,11,18 (oil Urio Village 11-7-36 24 22 Wassi Kussa-Mai Kussa Main letter Theory about 25 5,6,7,8 Mai Kussa 25 1 Tarara 25 2,3,8,9,10,12 Gija 25 14
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3 Azasado 25 25 14 Buji 25 16,18 ? 25 19, 20 Maps Yule Isl. 10 4 Daru 10 14A Mts. Palmer and Fenang R. 16 10 5 mi. below Palmer Junct. 17 2,8 Palmer and Black R. Camp 18 5,8,11 19 5 Mts. from Palmer and Black 19 3,4 Mts. from plane 20 2 Mt. Mabion and vicinity 21 13 Orville Camp 21 34 Lake Daviunda 23 3,16 Frank's Sketch Map of Daviunba 25 24A, 25 and River Sturt Isl. 24 2,8 Tarara 25 9A Bandicoots 3 - Loc. Date Letter Page 3 - Tarara 12-13-36 25 6 Bats Sp. 5 Palmer J. 5-28-36 17 11 ? 5 mi " 17 12 ? " 5-31-36 17 14
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Bats. Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page ? 5 mi. 6-31-36 18 2 4 Palmer and Black 7-?-36 21 20 6 (♂ spp) L. Daviamba 9-17-36 23 20 14 " 9-18-36 23 " 1 " 9-19-36 " " 1 " 9-22-36 23 21 4 below " 10-1-36 25 24A 12 " " 10-2-36 23 " 1 Sturt Is. C 10-13-36 24 7 1 (2997) " " 10-15-36 24 10 1 3005 " " 10-16-36 24 11 1 " " 10-24-36 24 15 1 (3069) " " 10-25-36 24 15 1 " " 10-27-36 24 15 (same as 2994 2 ♂s (3115-3116) 11-3-36 24 20 6 (♀s 3 of 2996) 3005 11-3-36 24 20 2 (2 spp) Tarara 12-4-36 25 2 1 (faint) Tarara 12-4-36 25 2 1 - " 12-9-36 25 4 1 (faint) " 12-12-36 25 5 2 - " 12-16-36 25 7 1 - " 12-19-36 25 9 3 (faint) ♂ Bemi 1-4-37 25 18 1 (Vespertilionidae ♀) Sogeri 2-2-37 26 9
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Dactylopsila Allied to Dactylopsila 1 σ d L. Daviumba 9-5-36 25 11 and 12 1 Tarara 12-21-26 25 10 1 skin Sogeri 1-30-37 26 6 Distocchurus 1 ♣ Sturt Is. C. 10-9-36 24 5 Dobsonia (Bat) 4 ♣ Daru 2-25-36 10 9 3 " 3-3-36 10 14 1 " 3-13-36 11 5 1 (faint bat) Dogma 4-3-36 13 2 2 Mabeduane 4-20-36 14 4 2 Palmer J. 5-24-36 17 7 5 mi. " 5-26-36 17 9 1 " 6-3-36 18 9 1 Oroville Camp 8-9-36 21 34 1 Palmer and Polack 6-11-36 18 9 Dorcopsis (Wallaby) 6 L. Daviumba 9-16-36 23 18 2 σ Sturt Is. Camp 10-7-36 24 2 1 " " " 10-7-36 24 2 1 ♣ " " " 10-10-36 24 6 1 " " " 10-25-36 24 15 2 " " " 10-28-36 24 16 1 " " " 10-31-36 24 17
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Sp. Dugong Loc. Date Letter Page 1 Daru 3-13-56 11 3 Echimypera (Bandicoot) 1 Rona Falls 2-16-56 9 7 4 (3 pouch young) Old Mawatta 4-10-56 13 3 4 3 " " Mabaduane 4-21-56 14 4 1 Palmer and Black 6-18-56 18 15 1 " " " 6-25-56 19 5 2 Mabion 7-?-56 20 28 ?) 1 Sturt Is. C. 10-24-56 24 14 1 " " " 10-29-56 24 17 1 ? " " " 11-1-56 24 19 1 " " " 11-2-56 24 19 ?) 1 Itika 1-26-37 26 4 Emballonura (Subg. mosea) "ano" Palmer J. 5-23-56 17 6 5 mi. Palmer and Black 6-15-56 18 11 2 Nigrescens L. Daviumba 9-2-56 25 10 Sturt Is. C. 10-17-56 24 11 Eptesicus 2 Madiri 11-10-56 24 22A Hipposideros
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Hipposideros Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 1 Palmer J. 5-24-36 17 6 5 mi. ? " 5-26-36 17 10 1 " 5-27-36 17 10 ? " 5-28-36 17 12 1 Pullatus (?) Sogeri 1-31-37 26 7 Hydromys 1 Palmer and Black 7-25-36 21 22 1 L. Daviumba 8-26-36 23 6 1 " 8-27-36 23 7 1 " 8-28-36 23 8 2 o and & Stur" 9-12-36 23 15 1 Sturt Is. C. 10-9-36 24 4 1 " " " 10-25-36 24 15 1 Tarara 12-12-36 25 5 Isoodon (bandicoot) 1 L. Daviumba 8-20-36 23 2 1 " " 8-23-36 23 4 1 " " 8-26-36 23 6 7 " " 8-26-36 23 7 1 " " 8-27-36 23 8 1 " " 9-1-36 23 10 3 " " 9-5-36 23 11 1 " " 9-7-36 23 14 1 " " 9-8-36 23 14 1 " " 9-19-36 23 20 1 " " 9-24-36 23 22
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Isoodon continued Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 1 Tarara 12-5-36 25 2 1 " 12-9-36 25- 4 2 " 12-11-36 25 4 5 " 12-11-36 25 5 2 " 12-12-36 25 5 1 " 12-17-36 25 7 1 Buji 1-4-37 25 18 1 ♀ " 1-4-37 25 19 Kerivoula ? Palmer J. 5-27-36 17 11 1 (?) 5 mi. L. Daviumba 9-16-36 25 13 Leptomys (?) 2 ♀ Sturt Is. C. 10-12-36 24 7 1 ♀ " " " 10-25-36 24 15 1 " " " 10-31-36 24 18 Lorentzimys 1 Palmer J. 5-25-36 17 5 5 mi. Macroglossus (Bat) 1 Daru 2-26-36 10 10 1 Mabaduane 4-16-36 14 3 1 " 4-18-36 14 3 1 " 4-21-36 14 4 1 (killed by rat) 1 Palmer J. 5-26-36 17 10 5 mi.
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Macroglossus (Bat) Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 1 Daru 2-26-36 10 10 1 Mabaduane 4-16-36 14 3 1 " 4-18-36 14 3 1 " 4-21-36 14 4 1 (killed by rat) Palmer J. 5-26-36 17 10 5 mi. ? Palmer and Black 6-15-36 18 11 Sturt Is. C. 10-28-36 24 16 Macropus (Wallaby) 3 Wurvi 4-1-36 13 1 2 Dogma 4-2-36 13 2 1 Agilis  Mabaduane 4-19-36 14 4 2 " α and  " 4-22-36 14 5 2 Bruni " 4-23-36 14 5A 4 Agilis L. Daviumba 8-26-36 23 7 1 " 6-27"36 8-27-36 23 7 1 bruni " 8-29-36 23 8 3 " " 8-30-36 23 8 4 " " 9-10-36 23 14 5 brunii " 9-16-36 23 18 2 " Sturt"Is. C. 10-10-36 24 6 1 "  " " " 10-27-36 24 15 1 " " " " 10-29-36 24 17 1 Tarara 12-9-36 25 4 1 brunii Buji 1-1-37 28 16 1 C. oriomo " 1-3-37 25 17 1 oriomo  " 1-4-37 25 19 1 agilist " 1-4-37 25 19
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(FAC) ANNOTATION 01 C1 85-03-1 used 1 0 A1 86-04-2 SCHEDULE 1 0 A1 85-07-1 " 1 4 A1 85-13-4 " 1 10 Y1 85-02-8 . C. TAMIL KILLED (see p. nefit) MILG 1 11 61 85-01-6 RADIO BURN REMAINS 3 01 A2 86-05-01 . O .AI FIGHTS 3 (VAILISH) ANNOTATION J 61 85-1-4 IV MINE 0 6 61 85-2-9 MIGOU 0 A A1 85-01-6 CHARCUTERS 0 6 A1 85-30-3 " 0 0 A1 85-04-9 " 1 Y 62 85-04-8 SCHEDULED AND 1 Y 53 86-75-6 " 1 0 62 85-03-8 " 1 0 53 85-02-8 " 3 A1 53 85-01-9 " 3 81 52 85-07-8 " 3 0 63 85-01-01 . O .AI FIGHTS 3 61 63 85-75-01 " " 1 Y1 63 85-12-01 " " 1 A 59 85-6-1 BRISER 1 81 85 85-1-1 FLU LHARD 1 Y1 62 74-3-1 OMOIST .O 1 01 62 75-4-1 " " OMOIST 1 61 62 75-6-1 " " STIFF 1
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Melomys Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 3 Rona Falls 2-15-36 9 6 2 " " 2-17-36 9 8 1 Daru 2-29-36 10- 11 1 Muscalis " 3-2-36 10 12 skin not made up because damaged 2 Muscalis Daru 3.3.36 10 13 2 " " 3-4-36 10 14 1 " " 3-5-36 10 14 1 " " 3-7-36 10 15 1 " " 3-8-36 11 1 3 " 3-17-36 12 2 1 Muscalis ♂ " 3-18-36 12 2 2 " ♀ " 3-19-36 12 2 ? " Old Mawatta 4-10-36 13 3 2 " Mabaduane 4-18-36 14 3 1 " " 4-19-36 14 4 1 " " 4-20-36 14 4 2 " 4-22-36 14 5 2 " 4-23-36 14 5A 1 " 4-24-36 14 5A 3 Fly River (?) 5-9-36 16 6 3 (2 sp) (5 mil below) (Palmer Junc.) 5-16-36 16 14 1 ♀ " 5-22-36 17 4 1 ♀ " 5-26-36 17 9 ? (2 sp) " 5-27-36 17 10 1 (Terrestrial) Palmer J.5 mi. below 5-28-36 17 11 2 (ground) " 5-28-36 17 11 1 " 5-31-36 17 14 2 or 3 " 5-31-36 17 14
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Melomys continued Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 1 Palmer J. 6-1-36 17 14 5 mi. below 1 Palmer and Black 6-8-36 18 7 1 " " 6-9-36 18 7 1 " " 6-12-36 18 9 1 " " 6-13-36 18 10 ? arboreal " " 6-15-36 18 11 1 " " 6-18-36 18 15 1 terrestrial " " 6-21-36 19 2 1 arboreal " " 6-22-36 19 3 1 " " " 6-22-36 19 3 3 " " 6-28-36 20 2 1 gracilis(?) " " 6-29-36 20 3 1 " " 7-2-36 21 1 3 (?) On way to the mts. 7-8-36 21 7 In formal. 1 Camp Koti-sala 7-12-36 21 12 1 Palmer and Black 8-1-36 21 28 ? (2sp) Mabion 7-?-36 21 28 1 Palmer and Black 8-2-36 21 28 2 (2sp.) Oroville Camp 8-9-36 21 34 1 " " 8-10-36 21 35 1 Below " " 8-16-36 21 36 3 muscalis L. Daviumba 8-19-36 23 2 ? (2 spp.) " 8-20-36 25 2 ? (3 spp.) " 8-21-36 23 3 2 muscalis " 8-21-36 23 3 2 " 8-22-36 23 3 1 muscalis " 8-23-36 23 4
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Melomys continued Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page ? (2 spp. L. Daviumba 8-25-36 25 5 ? " 8-26-36 25 6 1 Muscalis " 8-27-36 25 7 1 " 8-27-36 25 7 1 Muscalis " 8-29-36 25 8 1 -- " 8-29-36 25 8 1 --- " 8-31-36 25 8 1 Muscalis " 9-1-36 25 10 1 " " 9-2-36 25 10 1 " " 9-7-36 25 14 1 " " 9-9-36 25 14 3 " " 9-11-36 25 15 1 " " 9-12-36 25 15 2 (2spp) " 9-13-36 25 15 4 Muscalis " 9-17-36 25 19 1 " 9-24-36 25 22 3 Muscalis L. Daviumba 9-28-36 25 23 1 " ♀ " 9-29-36 25 24 (2 young) 1 Sturt Isl. C. 10-8-36 24 3 1 " " " 10-9-36 24 4 1 " " " 10-10-36 24 6 - 2spp. " " " 10-11-36 24 6 - " " " 10-13-36 24 7 1 (terrain) " " " 10-18-36 24 11 1 " " " 10-23-36 24 14 1 (3059) " " " 10-24-36 24 14 1 " " " 10-27-36 24 15 " " " " 10-28-36 24 16
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Melomys continued Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 2 (arboreal Sturt Isl. C. 10-28-36 24 16 1 " " " 10-30-36 24 17 1 " " " 11-2-36 24 19 2 (2 spp.) " " " 11-3-36 24 20 (3118, 3119?) 1 Muscalis madiri Madiri 11-11-36 24 22A " Tarara 12-6-36 25 2 3 " " 12-7-36 25 3 1 " " 12-12-36 25-5 5 1 " " 12-12-36 25 5 2 " " 12-19-36 25 9 1 Muscalis " 12-21-36 25 10 1 " " 12-22-36 25 11 1 " " 12-23-36 25 11 Muscalis Buji 1-2-37 25 16 " " 1-4-37 25 18 levipes Rona 1-19-37 26 1 2 " " 1-21-37 26 2 2 Iteki 1-24-37 26 3 1 " 1-26-37 26 4 2 levipes " 1-26-37 26 4 1 " Sogeri 1-30-37 26 7 " " 1-31-37 26 7 3 " " 2-2-37 26 9 1 " " 2-2-37 26 9 Murid 1 Tarara 12-21-36 25 10
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Myotis Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 2 Tarara 12-19-36 25 10 ?) 1 " 12-22-36 25 11 Nyctimene 1 Palmer J. 5-20-36 17 3 2 ♀ " 5-24-36 17 6,7 1 ♀ " 5-24-36 17 7 1 " 5-25-36 17 8 several " 5-26-36 17 9 2 " 5-27-36 17 10 1 Palmer and Black 6-22-36 19 3 3 " " 6-23-36 19 3 1 " " 6-28-36 20 2 1 " " 6-29-36 20 3 1 living " " 7-31-36 21 28 Nyctophilus ?) Microtis Sogeri 1-31-37 26 8 Peroryctes (Bandicoot) 1 Palmer and Black 7-?-36 21 20 1 Mabion 7-?-36 21 28 ?) 1 Sturt Is. C. 10-23-36 24 14
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Petaurus (Flying squirrel) Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 1 Tarara 12-9-36 25 4 1 " 12-10-36 25 4 1 ♀ " 12-10-36 25 4 1 (baby) " 12-10-36 25 4 1 " 12-13-36 25 6 2 ♂ and ♀ " 12-22-36 25 11 2 Tarara 12-24-36 25 12 1 Buji 1-1-37 25 15 " 1-3-37 25 17 4 " 1-4-37 25 18 1 p. papuensis ♀ (?) Itiki 1-26-37 26 5 Flying Phalengers 2 Tarara 12-12-36 25 5 Phalanger (opossum) (spotted cuscus) 1 Rona Falls 2-14-36 9 6 1 maculatus ♀ Mabaduane 4-22-36 14 5 1 " " 4-22-36 14 5 1 Palmer and Black 6-22-36 19 3 1 ♂ " " 7-25-36 21 23 1 Mabion 7-?-36 21 28 2 (1 ♀) Oroville Camp 8-10-36 21 35 11 maculatus L. Daviumba 8-21-36 23 3 2 " (alive " 8-21-36 23 4 ? " " 8-23-36 23 4 1 ♂ " 8-25-36 23 5,6
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(terminated, gray, 1) terminated 08-04-81 06-04-81 03-01-81 02-02-81 02-02-81 05-05-81 18-01-81 19-01-81 19-01-81 14-02-81 04-03-81 06-01-81 06-01-81 06-01-81 05-05-81 [illegible] [illegible] 06-01-81 06-01-81 02-04-81 03-03-81 03-03-81 03-03-81 05-03-81 [illegible] [illegible] [illegible] [illegible]
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Sp. Loc Date Letter Page 1 σ L. Daviumba 9-16-36 23 13 1 ♀ (1 young) " " " 9-8-36 23 14 1 " " " 9-10-36 23 14 1 Sturt Isl. C. 10-21-36 24 13 2 Maculatus ♂ and ♀ " " " 11-27-36 24 15 3 " Tarara 12-21-36 25 10 Phascolage 1 Palmer J. 6-1-36 17 14 1 5 mi. Mabion 7-?-36 21 28 1 tupara (?) L. Daviumba 8-19-36 23 2 1 - (brown) " " 8-22-36 23 3 ? " " " 8-23-36 23 4 1 " " " 9-2-36 23 10 2 ♂ and ♀ " " 9-4-36 23 11 5 2♂ and 3 ♀s "-5-" " " 9-5-36 23 11 (1 with young) 4 " " 9-7-36 23 14 4 " " " 9-8-36 23 14 1 " " " 9-9-36 23 14 2 " " " 9-11-36 23 15 1 " " " 9-12-36 23 15 3 " " " 9-17-36 23 19 2 " " " 9-18-36 23 20 3 " " " 9-19-36 23 20 4 " " " 9-24-36 23 22 1 " " " 9-28-36 23 23 1 " " " 9-29-36 23 24
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Phascogale continued 1 Sturt Isl. C. 10-27-36 24 15 2 σ Tarara 12-7-36 25 3 1 " 12-8-36 25 3 1 " 12-9-36 25 4 1 " 12-11-36 25 4 1 " 12-14-36 25 6 1 Buji 1-4-37 25 18 1 σ Rona 1-20-37 26 1 1 melanura Itiki 1-24-37 26 3 1 " " 1-26-37 26 4 Sogeri 2-1-37 26 6, 8 Philander 1 maculatus Fly R. (?) 5-8-36 16 6 Pipistrellus 1 Daru 2-27-36 10 10 2 " 2-29-36 10 12 5 (skull only in Formalin) 3-29-36 12 7 1 Mabaduans 4-20-36 14 4 1 " 4-25-36 14 5A 1 Tarara 12-6-36 25 3 1 " 12-11-36 25 4 1 " 12-15-36 25 6 2 " 12-19-36 25 9 1 " 12-19-36 25 10 Sogeri 1-30-37 26 7
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Pogonomys 1 (2 young) ♀ Palmer J. 6-2-36 18 1 5 mi. 1 (2 embryos) Palmer and Black 7-2-36 21 1 3 Oroville Camp 8-10-36 21 35 1 lepidus ♀ Sogeri 1-30-37 26 6 Pseudochirus 1 Itiki 1-26-37 26 5 Pteropus 1 Daru 3-7-36 11 1 1 ♂ Palmer and Black 7-50-36 21 26 3 2♂, 1♀ Belvis Oroville 8-15-36 21 36 1 L. Daviumba 9-16-36 23 17 2 Sturt Is. C. 10-13-36 24 7 " " " 10-28-36 24 16 1 Byji 1-3-37 25 17 Rattus 5 mordax Rona Falls 2-15-36 9 6 1 " " " 2-16-36 9 7 2 " " " 2-17-36 9 8 1 brachyrhinus Daru 2-18-36 10 11 1 (black) " 2-28-36 10 11 1 brachyrhinus " 3-2-36 10 12 2 " " 3-3-36 10 13 5 " " 3-4-36 10 14 1 " " 3-5-36 10 14
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Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 2 brachyrhinus Daru 3-6-36 10 15 5 " " 3-7-36 10 15 4 " " 3-8-36 11 1 2 " " 3-9-36 11 2 2 " " 3-10-36 11 2 2 " " 3-11-36 11 2 2 " " 3-12-36 11 3 1 " 3-13-36 11 3 2 brachyrhinus " 3-15-36 12 1 1 " " 3-17-36 12 2 2 " (1?, ?) " 3-18-36 12 2 1 " " 3-19-36 12 2 ? " Old Mawatta 4-10-36 13 3 ? ringens " " 4-10-36 13 3 3 " Mahaduane 4-16-36 14 2 1 brachyrhinus " 4-16-36 14 2 2 ringens Mabadrane 4-18-36 14 3 1 brachyrhinus " 4-19-36 14 3 4 ringens " 4-19-36 14 4 1 brachyrhinus " 4-20-36 14 4 1 " " 4-21-36 14 4 1 ringens " 4-21-36 14 4 2 " 4-22-36 14 5 2 " 4-23-36 14 5A ? Palmer and Black 6-16-36 18 12 1 " " 6-21-36 19 12
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Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 1 mordax (?) Oroville Camp 8-9-36 21 34 1 " " 8-10-36 21 35 2 (♂, ♀) Below Oroville C. 8-15-36 21 36 ? brachyrhinus ♀ L. Daviumba 8-20-36 23 2 1 " " " " 8-21-36 23 3 1 " " " " 8-23-36 23 4 1 brachyrhinus ♀ " " 8-24-36 23 5 1 " " " " 8-25-36 23 5 1 " " " " 8-28-36 23 8 3 " " " " 8-29-36 23 8 6 " " " " 9-2-36 23 10 1 " " " " 9-4-36 23 11 4 " " " " 9-5-36 23 11 4 " " " " 9-7-36 23 14 1 " " " " 9-8-36 23 14 2 brachyrhinus " " 9-9-36 23 14 4 " " " " 9-11-36 23 15 1 ringens " " 9-14-36 23 16 5 brachyrhinus " " 9-17-36 23 19 1 " " " " 9-18-36 23 20 1 brachyrhinus " " 9-19-36 23 20 4 " " " " 9-24-36 23 22 3 brachyrhinus " " 9-29-36 23 24 ? (8 spp.) ringens) Sturt Is. 10-8-36 24 3 1 " " " " 10-9-36 24 4 2 " " " " 10-10-36 24 6 " " " " 10-11-36 24 6
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Sp. Loc. Date Letter? Page Sturt Is. 10-13-36 24 7 4 Ringens " 10-18-36 24 12 " 10-25-36 24 15 1 " 10-25-35 24 15 4 " 10-30-36 24 17 4 brachyrhinus Tarara 12-4-36 25 2 1 ringens " 12-4-36 25 2 brachyrhinus " 12-5-36 25 2 " " 12-6-36 25 2 ringens " 12-6-36 25 2 4 " " 12-7-36 25 3 6 brachyrhinus " 12-7-36 25 3 4 " " 12-8-36 25 3 9 ringens " 12-8-36 25 3 4 " " 12-9-36 25 4 1 brachyrhinus " 12-9-36 25 4 3 ringens " 12-10-36 25 4 1 brachyrhinus " 12-10-36 25 4 2 " " 12-11-36 25 4 4 ringens " 12-11-36 25 4 2 " " 12-12-36 25 5 1 brachyrhinus " 12-12-36 25 5 1 " " 12-14-36 25 6 2 ringens " 12-14-36 25 6 13 ringens " 12-15-36 25 6 11 " 12-16-36 25 6 2 " 12-17-36 25 7 8 " " 12-18-36 25 8
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Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 1 brachyrhinus Tarara 12-18-36 25 8 3 ringens " 12-19-36 25 9 6 " 12-20-36 25 10 4 " 12-21-36 25 10 2 " 12-22-36 25 11 7 " 12-23-36 25 11 brachyrhinus Buji 1-2-37 25 16 " " 1-4-37 25 18 mordax Rona 1-19-37 26 1 2 " " 1-20-37 26 1 (mordax (brachyrhinus (near praetor (mordax 2 (praetor Itiki 1-24-37 26 3 2 (mordax 1 (praetor " 1-26-37 26 4 2 (mordax 2 (praetor " 1-27-37 26 5 1 (praetor 3 (mordax Sogeri 1-29-37 26 5 (praetor (mordax " 1-30-37 26 6 (mordax (praetor " 1-31-37 26 7 3 (praetor 2 (mordax " 2-1-37 26 8 4 praetor " 2-2-37 26 9 New (?) genus of mice 1 Fairfax Is. 10-4-36 23 26, 27 Rats 1 No. 5435 Itiki 1-24-37 26 3 1 Same Sogeri 2-1-37 26 8 May be Stemomys verecundus.
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Rhinolophus Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 4 Palmer J. 6-2-36 18 1 5 mi. (?) 2 (& spp. Sturt Is. C. 10-14-36 24 10 (2990, 2991 " " 10-15-36 24 10 (?) 2 ? and ? Tarara 12-5-36 25 2 1 ? " 12-16-36 25 7 (?) 1 " 12-23-36 25 11 Flying Squirrel 1 Tarara 12-13-36 25 6 Uromys 1 Rona Falls Rona-Falls 2-17-36 9 8 1 Dogiva 4-4-36 13 2 1 Palmer J. 5-31-36 17 14 5 mi. 1 Palmer and Black 6-14-36 18 10 ? " " 6-16-36 18 12 1 ? " " 6-25-36 19 5 1 " " 7-2-36 21 1 1 L. Daviumba 8-19-36 23 2 1 " " 8-24-36 23 5 1 " " 9-15-36 23 17 1 Sturt Isl. C. 10-8-36 24 3 1 " " 10-10-36 24 6 " " 10-11-36 24 6 1 " " 10-15-36 24 10 1 " " 10-23-36 24 14 " " 10-24-36 24 15
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Sp. Loc. Date Letter Page 3 Sturt Isl. C. 10-25-36 24 15 1 " " 10-27-36 24 15 " " 10-28-36 24 16 2 " " 10-31-36 24 17 1 " " 11-2-36 24 19 1 (3114 ?) " " 11-3-36 24 20 1 Tarara 12-13-36 25 5 1 " 12-15-36 25 6 1 " 12-18-36 25 8 1 Buji 1-1-37 25 15 1 Rona Falls 1-21-37 26 2 Zaglossus (spiny anteater) 2 ,  Mabaduane 4-24-36 14 5A 2 L. Daviumba 9-19-36 23 20
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L10, S 4a FIELD JOURNAL? G.H.H.TATE? ARCHEOLD 1926 NEW GUINEA EXP. Daru. Feb. 27, 1926. Thursday. This page commences the general and field notes of G. H. H. Tate, of the advanced party of the expedition. A synopsis of movements of the party is first offered: Left Los Angeles January 8. Arrived Sydney January Left Sydney Arrived Port Moresby Spent three days at Rona Falls collecting and getting generally acquainted with the Astrolabe Mountain country. Left Port Moresby Feb. 20 Arrived Daru Monday Feb. 24 . On the evening of our dining with Dr. Vernon he told us several amusing and interesting stories of his recent visit to Japan and Formosa, and how in the latter place he was invariably escorted by the police from village to village. Wilson, skipper of the Veimauri had also been invited. He, Vernon and I tried our hands at the piano, which is somewhat the worse for weather. Tues. Feb. 25. Devoted to sorting out stores and getting the big cases up and stowed away under the house. The boys reported bats in under the leaves of a coconut nearby which Rand shot (four) all females. They proved to be Dobsonia and may be the same as the species recently described by Glover Allen from Queensland. None was in breeding condition. I skinned them out in the afternoon and then we attended a little teaparty at Dr. Vernon's house where we met Mr and Mrs Woodward (he is R. M. for the district), Mr. and Mrs. Leydon (he is customs man), Mr. Schlenker (missionary). In the evening I picked up a few moths at the gasoline light. Wed. Feb. 26. More sorting of stores. I got my 6' by 6' by 6' skinning tent erected. It is made of mosquitonet and is designed to keep off flies and mosquitos so that I can skin specimens in peace, no matter how "high" they may have become. In the afternoon put up the bat net. It is very delicate and easily tangled up and requires a great deal of patience and finesse to get it properly ad- justed. Went afterwards with Beach to see his "farm", about a mile and a half out of town along the one road of the island which crosses from side to side. He has a number of cows, two horses, nine young ducks and some older ones, a lot of hens, about four dogs, and feeds them almost entirely on a mixture of corn and shredded coconut. He is growing a few tomatoes and beans, and off to the southeast about two hundred yards has a large garden in which a number of native vegetables and bananas and pawpaws seem to do exceedingly well. Directly behind Beach's farm is a big coconut grove belonging to Maidment (the man who owned a radio set until recently). A short quarter mile east south of Beach's is Dr. Vernon's place where he growing an experimental 40 acres of kapok trees. Rand started the boys clearing off a patch of ground on which we shall be able to beach the "Kono" our flying boat. When I got back from Beach's I took a walk down there (the tide being out) and found that practically the whole 'tween tides expanso to be of relaiely level rock. The rock appears to be sedimentary in origin, a coarse, gritty shaly sandstone which however contains some rounded pebbles and also unrounded material perhaps a quarter of an inch in size. The laminations vary, some being quite fine and others of coarse material. In addition there are inclusions, usually quite round that seem to to represent bowlders, or perhaps even filled and cemented potholes. Some have resisted erosion better than the matrix and stand out as rounded eminences.
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L. 10, S. 5 All of the matrix rock is greatly decayed, presumably through the action of seawater, but the boys are now engaged in getting out rock to fill in parts of the air base, so I hope that I may be able to secure some samples of material showing less alteration. The sediments seem to strike more or less east and west, and to dip very slightly (about 5 degrees) towards the north (ie towards the water front. Back at the house, after we had cleaned up, we had Beach, Vernon and Maidment drop in for a chat and a few drinks. About 7 oclock I went over to Beach's yard to try for some little bats which we had seen flying there the previous evening. Got three shots off but hit no bats. Thursday, Feb. 27, 1936. This a.m. baited up 30 traps and took them out to Beach's farm. Set 20 in old garden, 5 in bamboo clumps between the garden and Maidment's coconut grove, and 5 more in among the coconuts proper. Yesterday evening several turtles were brought in. One, badly diseased, apparently from an old harpoon wound was offered to Rand who wouldn't buy it. A good specimen was then brought. Yet another was bought by our boys collectively for a few sticks of tobacco. They then proceeded to butcher it in various unpleasant ways, which included fire, knives and axes. Last night about 9.30 p.m. we found a little Macroglossine bat tangled up in the newly erected bat-net. It had made quite a big hole already. And going out half an hour later I found another hole but no bat. Beyond Maidment's coconuts a path leads right out into mangrove scrub. Very wetm muddy and mosquito, but I'll have to do some invertebrate collecting there. I noted a number of small crabs and other thing during the short time I w was in there. Afterwards took trail directly opposite entrance to Beach's, which leads through Tea-tree and Eucalyptus bush, i.e. the park-like type of forest which lets a great deal of light through to the ground. Found it very hot, and rather unattractive from the point of view of colleting mammals. Saw Vernon the road back. He reminded me that we are expectd to tea at his kapok plantation tomorrow afternoon. Brass went also collecting in mangrove swamps. He got one thing new to him. He also brought me in a couple of dozen marine slugs that look like Triton, but without shells. They were concealed about the roots of the mangroves. Beach told story of witch doctor and mysterious bark xxx whose effect on dancing natives was to make them believe themselves dancing in the air, whereas actually they were down and out on the floor. Witch doctor then rolled them overa few times with his foot, whereupon they jumped up "loco" and ran, bumping into trees and anything in their way. They came to in a quarter of an hour or so and told Beach what their sensations had been. About 3 oclock took Auda with 30 traps and went out towards the mangrove clump half a mile to the east from here. First however I set ten around the base of the "hill" in a mixture of long grass, coconut palm and banana just east of where the aeroplane landing station is being built. The first half of the way to the mangroves (at low tide) is mostly over rock, but the second part is over moderately consolidated mangrove mud, which becomes less and less consolidated the farther you go. Mangroves five years ago filled the entire space, according to Woodward. But they have ben cut away systematically so that only tall stumps now remain until the above mentioned patch is reached. Remembering the two records of Hydromys being shot under jacklight on open seabeaches, it seemed to me possible that they might swim freely among the mangroves and the remaining stumps. Accord- ingly I set fifteen traps on the tops of the tallest stumps and five more on stumps along the outer fringe of the patch of tall mangrove trees remaining. I could not determine however whether the high tide will cover the traps or not. On way out saw white headed kingfisher; Periophthalmus; a number of inter- esting looking crabs. Coming back I secured samples of the coarse and fine sedimentariess as well as examples of the large pieces of included rock, which on examination will probably turn out to be some kind of quartz (perhaps chert).
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L.10, P. 6. This evening Mr. and Mrs. Woodward came down for "cocktails" (equals rum and water actually). We talked of various matters. He has been out in New Guinea for many years; she for seven. He had a station up the Sepik River in the Mandated Territory the other side of the island from here, and it was while they were there that she caught black-water fever. About 7 ock I heard Beech calling me to say that bats were flying. My shooting was none too good but I got one which turned out to be a Pipistrellus. For supper tonight we had first chicken stew and then turtle steaks from the turtle which Rand has been working on most of the day. It is known locally as the Green Turtle. Friday, Feb. 28. In Beech's garden took a large skink and one specimen of my newly described Rattus brachyrhinus. Drove out to see the traps with Beech in his Ford. Sent Aia out to see the mangrove line. He found a black rat around the base of the hill, and far out among the mangroves he discovered a Varanus lizard about a foot and a half long. This afternoon we were invited to "tea" at Dr. Vernon's farm. Beech drove us out to his place and Vernon's is merely a few hundred yards beyond. A little rustic bench and table under clumps of bamboo represented the picnic place; and we had tea, "damper" (bread made in a fryingpan), butter and jam amid the attacks of perfect hordes of mosquitos. Afterwards Vernon took us around to his plantation of baby kapok trees (tree-cottons). The biggest of them does not yet reach four feet, and the smallest is about one foot. Besides those planted out already he has quantities of seedlings still in boxes. The weeds grow at an infernal rate here, though, and it seemed to me a pretty hopeless job to try to establish such a plantat on with the little help he has. Besides kapok he showed us Ricinus, papaya, Eugenia (with pulpy fruit growing in sprays all up the trunk). I took my net along and Rand his gun. Several interesting butterflies and day-flying moths were netted. On our return I found that Aia whom I had sent out rebait traps had brought back four skinks. The skinks apparently like our combination bait better than rats do. A boy came along shortly afterwards and offered Rand a tame, immature hawk, apparently the same bird that I have twice seen along by the mission, and said to be among there. At Vernon's found a number of fat yellow "looper" caterpillars, gregarious on a shrub or young tree which Brass could not identify. On the yellow ground color they were speckled with black in definite pattern. The legs were reduced to the 3 pairs in front and 2 behind of the Geometridae but they looked far too fat and heavy to be "Geos". However one had spun up in a leaf and formed a thick heavy Hesperid-like chrysalis which I have brought back and hope to have hatch out later. Saturday, Feb. 29. Ran trapline at Beech's place. Took a small Melomys, a very large skink and three frogs. Aia went round the mangrove sets and brought back only house rats, several of them however. While waiting for Beech to finishing milking and running his milk separator I walked on through the main road to the other (south) side of the island. The Road three parts across goes over a strip of mangrove swamp about 200 yards across. It ends up at wretched fishing village of about ten or a dozen houses and some 50 inhabitants who seem to live in a dense cloud of mosquitos. The same rock appears there, coarse and finely banded shaley sandstones with similar inclusions, some of them very large, about a yard in diameter. But the dip of the rocks is slightly but unmistakably to the south instead of to the north as on this side. These opposite dips in what appears t be otherwise unfolded rocks, added to the lateritic ironstone that occours on the slightly elevated land at Beech's, Dr. Vernon's and even here on the "hill" at Daru proper leads me to suspect that we have to deal with a small dome, the upthrusting of which forced iron out to the near surface where it became weathered into the laterites.
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[illegible] While waiting I walked on through a three score and ten years. But I was up as soon as some 50 inhabitants who seemed nearly visibly pleased by the fact of my inclusion, some of the rocks is slightly out of the side of the rock spoke these words: "The side to the right of the bedded limestone is called "Fifi" and never changes."
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L.10, P. 7 This afternoon I took Aia and some seventy traps and drove out with Beech to his farm. I had previously arranged with Vernon to let me take a cot and mosquito net out to his place so that when I felt so disposed I could stay on there for the night. I have reached the conclusion that Beech's and Vrnnon's places offer about the best trapping possibilities on Daru Island. With this last lot of traps I began at the back corner of Maidment's where the coconut sets are and traveled along the scrubby belt, partly mangrove, behind Beech's and Vernon's sections well into the latter. There were still 15 small traps to be set when I came out to fiind out just where I was. Did not go back to set the rest but went up to Vernon's house and across back to Beech's where I found him transplanting Chinese cabbage. In the trap line I set the first forty traps (all rat size) on the ground in suitable places (there is some very dense long grass in open spots), and the rest (all small mouse traps as tree sets. Saw signs of feral pigs in the scrub. Sunday, Mar. 1. The new trapline was rather disappointing. Went out early with Beech before sun-up, a lovely salmon colored sunrise. B. presented me with a drink of fresh milk and a couple of apples (the latter not grown here). Back along the trapline the mosquiotos were waiting in vast quantities for me and made the most of their opportunities as usual. The only creature in the traps was another skink. Last night just at dark two boys from the village brought in a couple of Pipistrellus bats which they said they had secured by whipping a stick back and forth in the air over on the avenue which is lined with big mango trees. Sunday is the day when the "boys" receive their week's special rations: tinned meat, tea, sugar, salt, etc.; there is a daily ration of rice, peas, and soforth. In the afternoon sent Aia out to rebait; and I set another twenty rat traps around the dense lines of weeds between his rows of kapok. Heavy rain came on in the middle of things and I wen up ot the house to let it pass and finished the job afterwards. The view from the high porch of our house is pleasant and interesting: Straight in from and from side to side the two-mile wide straight stretches, and beyond it the mangrove fringed coast of the mainland of South New Guinea. Our house lies nearly a hundred yards back from the beach and on a slight rise, so that from the veranda we can overlook everything. The space between house and shore is grassy field, with a few rows of quite young coconuts planted immediately behind the wooden sea-wall. Over on the left side of our fields the small corrugated iron shed where the "boys" are housed; and beyond it can be seen the long jetty, built far enough out into the channel to allow shallow (very) draft boats to come in to it at low tide. On the right the open-spacing of the stems of a grove of old coconuts allows ample view down the channel to the east. As I write it is chäse upon sun-set; the boys keep up a constant chattering at the "boy house", a chattering which is pleasantly modulated by distance. All day long they have been singing to celebrate Sunday, mostly "John Brown's Body..." over and over again. Truly the Missions at the eastern end of New Guinea have made the most of their chances. A boy has just left the "house" with two old 5-gallon kerosine cans, schich serve as water pails; and away out at the edge of the receding tide a lad in a red "rami" (skirt) is poking around in the nearly rippleless water for shell fish or crabs. Overhead big martins are diving and wheeling around picking of gnats or midges. Monday, Mar. 2. The fauna here is undoubtedly thin. With complete rebait-ing yesterday of the old line and the additional twenty which I put down myself, only three specimens were secured. One Melomys muscalis had the skin so badly damaged that I could not make it up, a Rattus brachyrrhinus was considerably damaged by ants, and the third, a young animal of the same species was so bad that I had to throw it away. The worst offender of the ants is one which covers the trapped animal (or merely the bait) with particles of soil and works under cover, but another rather larger black ant, which makes no shelter at all, is nearly as bad.
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L.10, P. 8 After skinning out the rats I had Aia help me straighten out the bat net and shift it over into Beeach's yard. In the afternoon I sent him out rebait while I got another twenty traps ready and took them out to Vernon's farm. Incidentally I checked up on the thoroughness of Aia's work and found it to be good. Getting back to Beech's farm from the Doctor's place (they are contiguous, as the sketch map shows, I found Beech and Rand who had accompanied us out, ready to leave. Out in the main road we ran over a black snake about a yard in length, which it seems is called a Brown Snake. Got back just ahead of a heavy shower which no doubt spoiled flat our bait more or less. A "boy", who is Mission Schoolteacher came in and offered me a lot of long-dead, badly battered moths that I had to decline. He wants to ca[illegible] for us however, and I strongly suspect that he will use the school children to get things. He says his name is Sampson And he had with him an old number of the National Geographic in which insects were featured many in color. His idea was that I should pick out the ones that I particularly desired. However I just told him to bring everything I also showed him how to put them up in papers. He is going to give the matter a trial of a couple of weeks and them bring in the spoils for inspection and comments. The bat net caught a small dove for us tonight which we released however because it is a very common species and Rand has taken it often before. Tuesday, March 3. Took Aia out with me at 6 a.m. in Beech's car so that I might check up on his memory of where the trap line runs and so that I might show him the positions of forty more traps. Took a green frog, a very large skink, two smaller skinks, a rail, two Rattus brachyrrhinus, and two Melomys muscalis. On getting back to headquarters I found that the police had a force of prisoners out cutting the grass in our field with machetes. Skinned out specimens. Showed Aia how to put boot screws in boots, then had him straighten out the bat net and extract a very large beetle which had entangled itself pretty badly. Took a few photograph s of the village and the preparation of the aeroplane flat which is now nearly an acre in extent and should serve admirably to beach, turn and service the 'plane. After lunch sent Aia out with twenty traps to set all by himself. This is the first time I have let him do the business entirely alone, and I shall go tomorrow with him to see where he located them and what he caught. At Dr. Vernon's I found Vernon himself spraying his kapoks. He had killed a snake which I took, and afterwards I took a track southwest from in front of the mission, which passes around a fenced native garden and bears around west through Eucalyptus savanna (i. e. through tall trees widely spaced and the intervening areas covered with long grass nearly head-high. The whole of the western edge of that savanna is bordered with what nearly approaches the gallery-woods of South America, only instead of fringing rivers, these forests appear to fringe true gangrove swamps. While at Vernon's I took several pictures, one of a nest of tiny native bees which Brass had found that morning and placed on the picnic table. The bees were nesting in the tuberous base (a very large structure nearly as big as a small football) of a Hydnohytum (Rubiaceae), and in the same mass of plant structure was a nest of small brown ant. The ants and bees left eachother strictly alone neither transgressing the borderline of the others' nest. Am planning to go out and sleep at Vern n's farm tonight if the weather is right. Will put on the jacklight and see whether I can spot any eyes. Have little hope of seeing anything, though. Tracks, which ought to show plainly on the muddy surface of the ground, have been entirely absent, excepting those of pigs. I mentioned above that prisoners were out cutting our grass: Well a while later the police sergent (native) could be heard shouting out remarks from upethe hill at the police station. He continued talking Walked out to Vernon's in the light of the half moon. Out jacklighting but saw only nighthawks, one of which I brought back.
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was only nightshanks, one of which I brought back. Walked out to Vernon's in the light of the half moon. Upon the hill at the police station. He continued walking from remnants marked from where gunshots were fired by me while I was a lieW: asst: was our outfit: I had just arrived with the men, having been entirely exposed to those of pidgeon... On the muddy surface of the ground, having cut in gait's near as one (s) very large structure nearly on the flat side of the road. The picture on the phone was taken by a man who had been found with which Brues had gone and was gaining on us. After I took several photos, one of a man of the fire truck in front of the scene where the accident occurred. I saw a large piece of wood lying on the ground near the tree, which appeared to have been used as a support for something. I found it interesting that this particular area seemed to be a common meeting place for people, especially during the night. It was also noted that there were several vehicles parked nearby, including what looked like a police car and an ambulance. The overall atmosphere suggested urgency and activity related to the incident.
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L.10, P. 9. Mar. 4, Wednesday. This morning getting up at dawn found Vernon's place simply alive with mosquitos. The traps yielded fairly well this morning: 3 adult and 2 young Rattus brachyrrhinus, and 2 Melomys muscalis. Last night Rand shot three Dobsonia. I quote part of his notes : "heard noise in coconuts which thought was flapping of wings... about 9 oclock ... moonlight decided to investigate... found flying foxes, 20 or 30 or more. Several were flying about, every now andthen attempting to light on a coconut frond, when the beating of their wings fanning the air and striking the fronds sounded very loud; occasionally one would give a low squeal. A light... showed three pairs of eyes gleaming red. A shot and flying foxes appeared from all the palms about, but not a movement from my tree. Flying foxes fluttering about the grove like huge moths. Finally three bats, 1 male, 2 female, fell from the tree I shot into. ... The bats were not feeding; perhaps resting, but sexes not segregated." Last evening I was invited out to play "auction" with Mr and Mrs. Leyden and Dr. Vernon. Had rather poorer hands than average but no doubt they will even up some other time. Thursday, Mar. 5. No rain last night and (not consequently) quite poor trap results: 1 Melomys muscalis and 1 Rattus brachyrrhinus. This morning took my second collecting-and-skinning boy. His name is Gororo. Decided to start both on skinning house rats several of which were brought in by a native policeman this morning. Only practice skinning of course. Aia at least who watched me yesterday is making out pretty well. He is taking the other one through the business step by step. This afternoon I shall send them out together to rebait, Aia again to act as instructor and show the new fellow where the traps are, how to bait them, and how to set them without catching his fingers. Yesterday Brass and Rand borrowed Beech's canoe and went around the mangove point to the east. I had a lot to do and did not go. Besides I had already walked there and did not expect to see anything especially new from the water. This afternoon I went out to try to find the big swamp to the southwest of here but I got tangled up with a multitude of native gardens and criss-cross tracks so that I did not reach it. Took a number of insects new to the collection however. Crossed the road and went in to Vernon's place where we brewed some tea and then started back. The boy there said that he had heard a "boat engine", and we were just wondering what boat had come in, when Vernon's house boy came running up to say that the aeroplane had arrived. Doc. Vernon went in to take a shower and change his clothes before coming down to our place to see Archbold and the ship. And I passing Beech's house heard voices and jumped to the conclusion that Archbold was there. I found however that instead of the 'plane coming a small boat the "Aramea", captained by Capt. Dick Reynolds had come in. See So the joke was on Doc. and me. We are invited out to dine with Mr. and Mrs. Woodward this evening.He is the Regident Magistrate and arbitrator of the destinies the whole of Daru. Rand went out for curlews along the shore this afternoon. In due couse a couple of shots were heard. The boys working at the aerop one slipway all remarked "Pida boi-boi", which Brass translated as "the gun talks out loud". The boys sing most of the time they are at work, a doleful and lugubrious chant but one is told that so long as they sing they are entirely contented. Dr. Vernon told me little of his history. He was born in Sussex, England, but lived most of his life in Sydney, Australia. He Was general practitioner for many years in Western Queensland. Thn the War broke out and he went to Egypt with the medical corps of Australia and later to Palestine where he served with Allenby's troops against the Turks. When the storm blew over he Went into a plantaion undertaking with a partner in Northern Queensland. The depression pretty well ruined that business and he went back to medicine, building up a considerable practice on Thursday Island. Two years ago, I judge that he retired and came to Daru where he took up experimental planting which he is doing now.
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Mainland Oriomo R. +Village Channel 2 in. = 1 mile. Tropes 20 rat Mangroves 10 " Dance foot of heel 20 " Black garden 5 " Bamboo clumps 5 " Hardnut coconuts 40 " Rat Swale (Bank). 30 mouse " (tree) 20 rat (Vermosa chair). 20 " 10 r { mission track 10 mouse } woods 10 rat { mangrove woods 10 mouse} This map to be corrected village Mangroves Sandy Beach visited by Leyden reel position Rocks (Sandstone) Taewa Village Taurua Main Road Mission Garden Dune Sands Trees or Tarps Sandalus continue to point from plane) our house Mangroves Swamp according to mail van Channel +++ = trap line 20 Bristol Island (Boro)
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L.10, S.10 Friday, Mar. 6. Tested out the new boy Gororo at finding trapline. He Scored 100. The catch was 2 Rattus brachyrhinus only, although we took another rail of a second species which Rand says is Rallus tricolor, and a skink. After I had measured and labeled the rats I gave one each to the boys to skin. They made quite good jobs of them and I had only a few criticismx to make. I don't expect to let them stuff the skins ever, merely to take them off for me. There was a big rent in the bat net this morning near the ground; probably a dog had run through it. The boys are repairing it now. Rand is breaking in two other boys to skinning birds. Last night we had a very enjoyable time at the house of Mr. and Mrs. Woodward. The night was close and hot, but after dinner we played poker, the five of us. Brass and Woodward had rather poor luck. It was penny ante. Am invited to go with Dr. Vernon and a visiting doctor from Thursday Island, Dr. Dowling out for the day in Vernon's boat across to the mainland and up the Oriomo River. It is a good opportunity to see the territory in which Archbold had one of his camps during the previous expedition. In the evening we all go to Vernon's for a general party. I understand that all Daru (white) is expected to be there. This afternoon sent the boys out reset about seventy of the traps. I went out myself and placed a bunch of tree traps on practically every trunk in a patch of woods on the mission trail which I found a couple of days ago. If Pogonomys is on the island I hope to get it. A tame hawk which we have had for about a week yesterday ate three lizards which had been pickled in methylated spirit. The poor thing when I saw it about 7 oclock was sitting with its eyes shut swaying from side to side. This morning we thought it dead, for it was lying on the ground motionless. Actually it had a most terrific alcoholic jag on. And this evening twelve hours later it began to move slightly. Rand put water in front of it but probably it could not see. Then he dipped its beak into the water and it tokk a drop or two. Amoment or two later it sort of fell forward head first and bagan to drink. Tonight it is still dazed but sitting on its feet and I believe it will get over the experience completely. We had fried curlew for supper tonight and very good indeed they were. Just afterwards a squall came up from the east, and it is coming down at this moment so heavily that I cant' hear even the click of my typewriter (we have a galvanized roof over this house.) A nice lot of butterflies were sent down by Sampson from the Mission. They appeared to be in quite good condition; I had had to refuse the first lot because they were so badly broken up. Saturday, Mar. 7. Torrential rain during most of the night. The trip to the Oriomo is cancelled and all this morning rain continued to fall. My tree traps failed to catch anything, but the boys brought in five R. brachyrhinus and one Melomys muscalis. Dr. Vernon Dr. Dowling and Beech arrived here and while we waited for the nin to stop they told tales of shark fishing and one thing and another. Am closing this up so that it can go back on the Aramea with them.
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L. 11, S. 1 Daru, Papua. Saturday, Mar. 7, 1936. At noon today I closed and posted letter no. 10. Rand took a canoe and ten men and crossed the strait to the South New Guinea mainland. He left about 1.30 and it is now 6 p. m. This afternoon I send out the boys to rebait the general trapline and went myself to rebait my tree traps. Afterwards went down to low tide line to collect some Mollusca and Crustacea. On my return found several bays waiting for me with butterflies, one of whom had not only collected them in excellent condition but had even put them up in papers. I drew a few pictures of wasps, grasshoppers and bugs and beetles and told them to bring them as well. They seemed to get the idea pretty well too. Rand got back about 8 oclock bringing a duck, an osprey, a Pteropus fruit-bat, and a living sulphurcrested cockatoo. He had left the canoe theother side, and the tide had done the same, so that considerable time had been taken up in getting it launched again. Dr. Vernon's party was held without his presence. He came down with a sudden attack of fever in the afternoon and was in bed while the party progressed. We played a table of bridge and the others played poker. Sunday, Mar. 8. Only four R. brachyrhinus in traps. The tree traps failed again to get anything. We'll keep them going but I fear that little hope remains of trapping Pogonomyx on Daru. The "Aramea" sailed this morning taking with Dr. Dowling and Mr. Schlenker the missionary who is going away for a month to be married. Yesterday the chrysalis taken at Dr. Vernon's (see L 10, S. 6) hatched out. The moth is species quite about here, a big yellow moth with dark speckles, more Arctiid-like than Geometrid-like. A full grown Ampelophagous sphinx caterpillar brought in on vine leaves from Beech's garden spun up yesterday among the leaves Went up to Vernon's and read a book by Aldous Huxley this afternoon. About five oclock a boy arrived with a rat which he said he had caught in his canoe which was beached just to the right of our landing ramp. He saw it first out on the shore (Sandstone beds more or less mud-covered and backed by regenerated mangrove which is as yet only a couple of feet high. The rat proved to be a large Melomys, with broad hind foot denoting arboreal habitus, color brownish gray, tail with unimbricated, rounded hexagonal scales, each of which bears but one scale hair less than a scale-length. The animal was a female and the mammae (2 pairs of inguinal only) are very large and thick as compared with those of the Rattus I have examined. They are also slightly recessed in the abdominal skin. The ear is not very large, but the eye as with most tree inhabiting, nocturnal animals is decidedly large. In the skull (roughed out) the teeth show no sign of the broadening of the meyeri group and the snout is markedly short in comparison with the dimensions of the braincase. This afternoon the boys tried to give our new cockatoo, which is filthily dirty, a bath, which accounted four the enraged squawking which we heard proceeding from under the house. No bath was given, and only one hand of the several taking part got a really severe bite. The boys love to decora e their frizzy hair: you see them going along with the flower of an Alamanda, bright yellow, drooping gra cefully over one ear; or a feather standing upright above the head; they carry their long three- or four-pronged combs sticking in their hair just anywhere; and last night our table boy appeared with three or four strips of the cotton that comes endlessly out of new bottles of pills drooping from one ear, and another strip wreathed aslant around his fuzzy mop. The effect was quite rakish, something like the tilt the Highlanders give their "bonnets". They try hard to understand you. If one thinks he catches your meaning he at once proceeds to elaborate at considerable length to the others. They pronounce their few words of English with little regard for consonants: finees for finish; lice for rice; all peas and beans are 'beans'; Aia calls motorcar 'moto'c'
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L. 11, S. 2 Monday, Mar. 9. Two Rattus brachyrhinus only. Heavy rain last night may have spoiled trapping partly. This morning put thirty tree traps on the coconuts adjoining the place where the canoe was beached in which the new Melomys described yesterday was caught. I rather feel however that the animal have come concealed among packages of sago with which the canoes were loaded from the Bamu River district, north of the Fly River. In that event we shall probably not find that species again at Daru. After lunch started out once more to try to find the great swamp to the southwest of the island. There is a perfect network of trails in places, and the first time I went wrong I recognized the fact after about a quarter of a mile; the next time I never did find the proper way, although I went through a lot of new territory as appears on the new map which I have drawn to illustrate the walk I took. Came to several large new native gardens and a number of abandoned ones. Finally turned due west along a track which brought me out some 300 yards south of Vernon's south fenceline. Plant to go out with Brass tomorrow. He went with a guide the other day. He showed me that I was very near the swamp but missed it at one of the gardens, where the track becomes obscured for a time. The big patch of woods which on the map I have marked as having such bad mosquitos, is from the standpoint of forest the most attractive I have seen yet on Daru. But the the mosquitos are fierce there Last night we had a visitor, a missionary named Standing, of the Unevangelized Christian Mission. His station is on the River Aramea, tributary of the Bamu River. He told a number of tales of going about in overloaded canoes and getting upset or swamped in various uncomfortable places, one of which was at the mouth of the Fly River two miles from shore. The weather has become rather stormy and last night we had a lot of rain again. Tuesday, Mar. 10. The boys brought in two R. brachyrhinus. The coconut sets on the trunks of the trees produced nothing whatever. Took a walk eastwards along the trail among the mangroves. Saw nothing of importance. Beech has just pointed out that rain has been getting into the storeroom and that the bottom bags of rice and brovosions are mouldy. This afternoon I tried once more to reach the great swamp. Last night's rain has put all the tracks under from six inches to a foot of water; and the water in the swamp (which this time I found without trouble) was so high that I should have had to go waist deep to get even to the edge of the clear water. The approach however is distinctive, being composed of dwarfed teatree forest with a ground cover of wide patches of a very short grass or sedge interspersed with the great fern Acrostichum (Brass 6211). Went over to Beech's this evening where found him playing Cribbage with Mr. and Mrs. Leyden. I cut in but I hadn't played the game for at least ten years. Had the cyanide bottle with me and picked up several interesting though small moths during the evening. Weather all night gusty and threatening rain. Wednesday, Mar. 11. No rain after all. It is rather disappointing to find what look like good trapping places unproductive. The twenty sets made in mosquito woods yesterday did no good. Probably the holes around the bases of the trees were made by crabs and not by mammals at all. Two juvenile R. brachyrhinus were secured only. This morning turned in between Maidment's and Beech's places and worked around and out behind the Mission. Found the patch of woods where the Mission ch#ildren are probably catching their butterflies, as I saw a male Ornithoptera a great green and black creature with a sulphur yellow abdomen flitting through the trees.
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L. 11, S. 3. This afternoon at 1.45 the "Kono" caught us all by surprise and came roaring in from the back of the island. She circled and described various S's before she came down in the channel. Wild excitement reigned among the natives of Daru and our "boys". All the population gathered along the shore to watch her come in. The wheels were let down and one of them stuck in a crack in the rock which had been concealed by mud. She had to stay there for a couple of hours while the tide ran out and left her. Rand, Brass and I were pushed out by boy in a canee, and a minute later Leyden Customs Officer pulled alongside. Archbold went ashore with him., Rogers and Yulestedt coming back with us. At low water a number of boys with Rogers and Archbold went out to the "Kono" and while Archbold started the engine Rogers had the boys heave up under the wingfloat of the side whose wheel had sunk, and the ship was free in less than a minute. She taxied steadily towards the new slipway, but once there the new ground though rockfilled proved to be rather soft in places and the wheels sank more than once. However the same procedure brought her safely ont@ the place prepared for her and turned around. I went down and took a number of pictures of the entire affair. There was much exchange of news: they had assembled and tested the boat in a week after reaching Brisbane. Brisbane was left behind three days ago, and Cairns this morning at 7.30, just ab ut six hours before reaching Daru. The Brisbane newspapers amd made the most of photographic opportunities offered when the ship was being assembled and we were shown a number of press photographs that had not actually been used in the papers as well as those which had. A considerable quantity of baggage as well as all the radio equipment was brought as cargo. In addition a new 100-gallon gasoline tank has been fitted in the middle cabin, so that now with a full load of gas the "Kono" can go 1200 miles without another fill-up. Thursday, Mar. 12, 1936. Last night very heavy rain between 9 and 11 o'clock. Clear again this morning. Traps produced the customary two Rattus brachyrrhinus. Went out with net to take insects other than butterflies which the children of the Mission have been bringing in considerable variety. Took. Such things as leaf-hoppers, grasshoppers, dragonflies, wasps, sawflies, beetles. Had a fairly successful m rning at it. The slipway for the plane has to be reinforced with stone. The "boys" were hard at work on it when I got back. Then Archbold wants to pipe water from Beech's well down to the slip so as to have water for washing the ship. Julestedt, although he worked Thursday Island and Port Moresby yesterday coming up, could not get through this morning with the other radio set. He and Rogers are working upon it this afternoon. The "boys" have an odd habit of bending very low as they pass us sitting at our table. It has been explained by the fact that in their own village none of them is allowed to have his head higher than that of the chief. And as we happened to be seated they had nearly to crawl to get by. Friday, Mar. 13. Only one Rattus today but plenty of work arrived in the form of a dugong which had been harpooned the night before by Kiwai fishermen. It has taken a good part of the day to take the skin off and make the animal into a skeleton. In the middle of the morning too a boy brought in a fruit bat of the genus Dobsonia. So all things together, I've had a busy daThe "Kono" is to fly to Port Moresby on Sunday, and will carry mail. So I'm going to get this letter on her. The envelopes(may even send more than one) willbe quite valuable so hang on to them.
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L. 12, S. 1 Saturday, Mar. 14. Got a couple of Radio messages off to Port Moresby this morning. Plenty of interference however. The Dugong caught yesterday is fairly well skeletonized today; still some meat to be taken off the bones however. Nothing in the rat traps this morning. Aia is to change a number of them this afternoon. So we ought to take some tomorrow. As a matter of fact though there was one thing caught: a very large [illegible] Cossid moth was almost cut in two by a rat trap. It is tongue-less so could not have been interested in the bait but must have come against the treadle accidentally. It is the first moth I have ever taken in a trap set for mammals. Heavy rain most of this morning. The "Kono" is to leave for Port Moresby tomorrow morning some time. She will probably not come back until Thursday or Friday of next week, as there is a good deal f equipment to be unpacked from the shipment Archbold sent by boat from Brisbane which she is to bring back with her. It being Saturday afternoon not very much work was done by the boys. I walked out to Beech's and Vernon's farms and picked a lot of old trapline up ready to have it reset in new places. In the evening went out to play bridge with the Woodwards and the Leydens at the latter's house. Collected quite a nice lot of moths at their lights. Sunday, Mar. 15. Traps gave two R. brachyrhinus. We have been working steadily to finish up the skeleton of the dugong. The job has just been completed. The planes left at 9.10 for Port Moresby. We were to keep in touch with her by radio but have been unable to raise her. The trip is only two hours, so they ought to be there by now noon). Hope the letters get safely into the postoffice. She was carrying official mail. Very hot today. 91 Far. this afternoon. Nobody had energy to do much of anything. I rode out with Beech to his farm but for the ride only and to get a breath of air. Yesterday with the road practically under water he had skidded into the ditch but having plenty of boys to pull him out again it didn't matter. Today the road was much drier. This evening out to supper with Dr. Vernon and Mr. and Mrs. Leyden joined us afterwards for their first lesson in "Contract". Vernon has played it before, but the Leydens are both good Auction players and picked it up quickly. Mrs. L. however had a touch of fever so we closed up the game early. At dinner Dr. Vernon had served canned salmon, a very nice salad, and for dessert a bread pudding with that coconut cream of which I once told you as sauce for it. It tasted "swell". The rest of our crowd went up to play poker at Woodwards'. Monday, Mar. 16. A bad day: thunder in the early morning and heavy rain clouds building up to the east of us and bearing down. The rain is just starting. Weather only moderated at noon. I went out to Vernon's and set new line of 33 rat traps. Found Doc. Vernon there and we had tea before walking back home. He had been planting tomato plants (cuttings) on an old megapode's nest. The nests are remarkable mounds of earth (about five tons of dirt each, said to be scratched up by a single pair of birds whose size is only slightly greater than that of a hen).This nest was about ten feet wide at the base, roughly circular, and about five feet across on the flat top which was roughly four feet above ground level. It is not known, according to Rand, whether the same nest is used for life (or added to), or whether a new nest is made each breeding season. In the evening I got Brass and Rand to give me the essentials of a Motuan vocabulary. Motuan is the chief language used among our boys. Some however use Gossiago,(I'm not sure whether that name really indicates a distinct tongue or whether it means a people who use a dialect of Motuan).
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L.12, S.2 Tues., Mar. 17, 1936. A fair morning without rain during the night. Yesterday 's morning rain brought the temperature down to 77; it had been between 91 and 94 through most of the day. This afternoon (5 p. m.) after unbroken sunshine all day it is 90. Went out early to examine my new line; not a thing in it, though traces of four skinks were to be seen. The catch from the other line was four: 3 Melomys and 1 Rattus. Am getting enough data on the breeding periods of this species R. brachyrhinus to enable me to put together a very fair table (for 1936) covering the months of March and February. We had to build an open pole platform for drying the bones of the dugong this morning. The platform stands four feet abo ve ground and the skeletal parts are spread out on it after which a fire is kindled on the ground beneath. This afternoon I took the boys out to show me where their trap lines now are. They change them about once in a while and I have to keep track of where they put them. Last night on the short wave radio set we could hear various U. S. stations: New Brunswick, N. J. Pasadena, Calif., some place in Indiana. We also picked up a station in the Belgian Congo calling some other local station. Tomorrow morning we are going to try to get the Kono at Prot Moresby and find out when she is due back here. Trapping here on the island is extremely poor. It averages a daily catch of between 1 and 2 % of rats to traps. The boys are shaping up very well however, and they get a little skinning practice daily as well as plenty of exercise at setting traps. I intend to demonstrate steel traps before very long. But I take them along pretty slowly on purpose. The tide here is extraordinarily erratic. It ought to work out at fifty odd minutes later daily. Yet some days it stays in for hours and others it hardly comes in at all. The facts are complicated: First of all we have a tidal wave crammed in between New Guinea, the Solomons, and North Australia; next we are situated on an island whose channel opens at each end to the sea and may thus be held to experience two waves of tide; finally upon the direction and strength of the wind depends the question whether those waves reach Daru (where we are) at the same time or not. Wed. Mar. 18. Male and female Rattus brachyrhinus and a fine adult nearly perfect specimen of a male Melomys muscalis. A strongly defined rufous patch appears on the nape and between the ears of this individual. A fair day. Probably will get hot later. Looking for radio news from the Kono this morning. Worked radio all morning: could talk to Port Moresby all time and could hear Rogers on the ship, but he could not get us. Kono arrived at 12.20. It had left Moresby at 9.30. First mail received from the States. Champion who has been over from the Fly to the Sepik came back on the Kono to show us the route taken by his party, this time from the air. The new transport man Willis was the other passenger. In the afternoon Rogers took the plane up once more for a short flight in order for us to give the radio a further test. And last night Champion brought out his new map on which he shows the newly discovered Lake Marguerite and the Leonard Murray mountains as interpreted through a recent flight made by him from the Leahy Brothers' airport near Mt. Hagen, across the main range in a southwesterly direction and back again. Thur. Mar. 19. One Rattus brachyrhinus and two female Melomys muscalis. I shall be glad when we can get to some station where trapping will be more productive and more varied. We tried to raise VIG (Port Moresby) at ten ock. as agreed but could not get him. Perhaps he had too much work on hand to be able to spare us the time.
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L.J2,S. 3 Fri. Mar. 20. This morning went with the Kono as radio opr. while Julstedt stayed to work the gnd station. We flew only for an hour: up the Oriomo river to Wurci, then across to Dogwa (both stations used by Archbold during the last expedition). Thence we went northeast to the delta across the mouth of the Fly river; again we changed course and flew southeast nearly to Darney Island; turned back to the Fly and south again to Daru. We had intended to take a look at Bramble Cay but Archbold did not go there after all. The radio morse from Daru came in to me very strangely, but it was hard to keep the ship's receiver which has remote controls from the instrument board in tune. Then too the main cable between the generator and the transmitter at the base station shorted, and Julstedt could not send out signals for the last quarter of an hour. He heard everything I sent however. At the five oclock schedule with Moresby we learned that the Vaimauri which had left Port Moresby in the morning carrying almost all of the stores brought by Archbold had put back with serious engine trouble. Another boat will not be available to replace her until early in April. The Papuan Chief, due yesterday is overdue. Have arranged to get two more boys to learn skinning and trapping. My two this morning failed to get anything last night. I have sent them out to move their traps this morning. Champion who will be flying up the river with us to point out the spots where he went through the mountains a few years ago, is taking his meals with us. It was funny last night when corn (very hard, old chicken corn) boiled on the cob had been served to be sitting talking with someone and suddenly notice a black hand reach quietly over your shoulder and whip the cobs off your plate. Again Brass called for more bread, and instead of it coming on a plate as usual a block of it was thumped down on the table beside him. You will guess that we have a new table boy. His name is Ego-ego. Sat. Mar. 21. Our radio schedule with Port Moresby comes at 10.45 a.m. on Saturday. Sent off message doubling supply order to give extra margin of provisions. Message went by radio as VIG came through in good order. We don't have them again until 5 on Monday evening. Boys got no rats today. Sent them out to change the traps so tomorrow a few specimens ought to come in. Got a little shooting practice with Colt 5-chamber and Luger automatic. The bird shooting boys are beginning to learn how to find and shoot specimens. Have two new boys selected for myself, namely Tanamoia and Tailkudo. They will start on Monday to learn the art of trapping and skinning mammals. The "Papuan"Chief" turned up at last, getting here about five oclock. She has about 75 natives on board being returned to their villages after completing their labor contracts. Also she has a few more of our boys. Russell Rogers cut my hair this evening. It was the first time he had ever cut anyone's hair! Healy the police officer and six police arrived on the Papuan Chief as well as a man named Adams who is traveling medical officer. He came now from Kikori in the Gulf. In the evening Maidment, Beech and Adams came around and we listened to the new HRO receiver which picks up and amplifies radio from all over the world. Collected a few more rather nice moths during the evening -- all little ones though.
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L. 12, P. 4. Sun. Mar. 22. Sunday was taken up chiefly with the preparations for the next day's trip to the upper Fly. Discussion centered particularly with the materials to be taken in case for some reason our return should be delayed and we should have to spend any time up there. In the end a skeleton camping outfit and ample food was decided upon. In the evening we were invited, all nine of us, to the Woodwards', and had just dressed in our best field shirts and were in the middle of dinner when a note came addressed to Archbold. As he merely glanced at it and said there would be no answer none of us imagined it had anything to do with us. But nearly a quarter of an hour afterwards he informed us that the party was off. Instead therefore we organized a couple of tables of cards ourselves. Mon. Mar. 23. Up at Four o'clock this morning; put final touches on equipment; had breakfast; and down and on board the plane at a few minutes before six. Plane started out (at dead low tide) and three quarters of the way out to the water the wheels stuck in the mud. We waited one and a half hours for the tide to rise and float her. Meanwhile I went back for another cup of coffee. Our crew of six: Archbold Rogers, Brass, Rand, Champion and I were finally installed in the ship and we took off from the little parking place and ran her out towards the water. The tide being dead low she of course stuck in the mud and we had to wait for an hour and a half for the tide to rise enough to float her. At 7.33 then we took off. We crossed mixed forest and savanna country on the way to the lower Fly River, and beyond between the Fly and the Strickland found similar mixed country. Above the Strickland River was a mixture of woods and swampy savannas all the way to Lake Murray upon which we made a landing and looked about us. Lake Murray is 178 miles from Daru and we reached there at 9.25 a.m. We had noticed a native village as we dropped down. It was located on a rather high dry island, and presently a canoe with two men in it came paddling towards us. We were all sitting all over the plane and lying out on the wings. When the men got about a hundred yards off they stood without paddling and just looked at us. At length one picked up a bunch of white feathers and called "sambi, sambi" (friend, friend); and Champion answered the same. They came a little nearer and stopped again. This time Archbold called them and with out further hesitation they came quite near. They had next to no clothes and were very black skinned. The old man wore a black beard and had his hair done with straws in some way. They traded the white feathers for some old nuts and bolts and a bundle of arrows for some yellow bunting. When we had to go we motioned to them to go. This they did, but happening to have paddled out ahead of the ship, when we hauled up anchor and started the motor we started right after them. You should have seen them put their backs into their paddling until they saw us veer off and realized that we were not chasing them. We got away from the Lake at 10.40 and headed for the Black River about 100 miles north. Murray is very greatly indented, dotted with islands and comparatively shallow compared with its extent. We got 14 feet of water where we anchored. North of the lake the savanna ceased and we flew over continuous forest. Below us we could see numbers of great white cockatoos flying just above the tree tops disturbed by the noise of the plane. The Elevala was crossed at 11.15 and mountains could be described east of the Strickland's supposed position. To the north two foothills of the main ranges could be seen blue gray in the distance. At 11.29 we reached the Black River and turned left down stream to find its junction with the Palmer. From there we followed down to find where the Palmer joined the Fly. After looking over several long reaches of these rivers for landing places we decided to head for home. A direct course carried us east of Lake Murray and a slight notch in the landscape which we used to sight on turned out to have the Strickland flowing through it. The latter was crossed at 12.40; the Fly at 1.15 and we slipped in to Daru at 1.50 p. m. well satisfied with our first exploratory flight.
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at in to put at .m .p I .50 is the first opportunity of our flight. The Lake Tsiit'an was crossed as we saw it at .12.13; the two lakes joined and a slight notch in the Strickland flowery mountainous country on the east of Lake Murray and a slight notch in the landscape which we needed to have to cross on our way to the Strickland valley. We followed one of these rivers for landing places as we were decided to go base for two weeks. After looking into the Fly, we found it joined with the Palmer. From there we crossed the Black River at .13.29 as we reached the foot of the mountain range on the north of the Strickland's valley. The rivers was crossed as I.L.II is based on the map and mountains could be described in a few miles of the summit to the north of To.T. The Fly was very difficult to find and must have been turned left as far as we found it after crossing the Palmer where there was not much snow. We got away from the lake at 10.40 and headed for the Black River 100 miles away. When we arrived in some way the river had its course altered. The very little of the water now came to a dead end and the whole area became an island, but as soon as the river had next on of them it was not difficult to find two hills from which we could have crossed the river and then continued our journey. The same day (Friday) they were able to cross the river and continue their journey. They had reached a point where they were able to cross the river again. We went back to the lake and saw that there was no water left in the lake, but we could see some white trees of the pine. The lake was not frozen over and we could see some white trees of the pine. The lake was not frozen over and we could see some white trees of the pine. We went back to the lake and saw that there was no water left in the lake, but we could see some white trees of the pine. The lake was not frozen over and we could see some white trees of the pine. The lake was not frozen over and we could see some white trees of the pine. We went back to the lake and saw that there was no water left in the lake, but we could see some white trees of the pine.
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L. 12, P. 5 Tues. Mar. 24. The second flight was pulled off today. This time we only got up at 5 oclock. The ship took off the water at 6.37; crossed the Fly at 7.05. This time we took a course which kept us well to the east of the Strickland River and bore on the notch in the mountains through which it emerges and which Karius, patrol officer named the Devil's Race. Today we made a few new discoveries. The course was west of north, set at 310 degrees but with some easterly drift. and went up between the River and the Leonard Murray Mountains which have not been explored yet. At 7.52 a.m. we crossed a small very distinct crater lake, and a few minutes later another larger lake which had previously been described. The Leonard Murray Mountains became clearly visible but clouded over again soon. On the western foothills of the mountains we saw signs of a large population: extensive and continuous garden patches. Also between crater lake and the other a sizable river flowing over a water fall, whose course I could not follow. At 8 oclock we passed what appeared t be a small broken out crater beneath us and on the left.; at 8.03 Leonard Murray Mts. bore straight right from the plane, and on its slopes the above mentioned gardens appeared. At 8.12 passed a strongly developed east-west rift, apparently a line of faulting but I could not tell direction of fall in it of water, even if there were any. We were flying 320 degrees. At 8.25 saw deeply fissured ravines to right. A very high limestone mass of mountains ahead and on right with its top in the clouds. A loop of the Strickland, the first seen of the river appeared for a moment full right. Series of parallel ridges seemed to incline from nw to se away from the mass of limestone just mentioned. The Strickland gap for which, as I have mentioned earlier, we were headed now appeared very near. We were flying at about 1900 meters now. Over to the left Mts. Blucher, Sare, and behind them the Dap Range and a host of lesser mountains could be seen rather clearly. The Great Limestone Mass now filled the entire horizon from east of north to due east. At 9.50 we entered the Strickland basin through the . An immense gulf immediately appeared below and to the right, and beyond on the same side a deep valley with a water fall dropping from the top of the limestone range. That valley was crossed at 8.55, and shortly afterwards another much larger and deeper gorge coming in from the northeast and nearly twenty miles in length was reached at eight fifty nine. In the bottom of that gorge was one of the main tributaries of the Strickland. At 9 oclock our course was changed to due west and we skimmed among the ranges with the Victor Emanuel range, rather fog clothed on our right and the inner face of the Blucher range to the left. The Blucher is joined by an eastern spur from the Dap range which divides the Palmer basin from the Strickland basin. Over that ridge we flew, and down the basin off the Palmer to the gap between Blucher and Sare, through which Palmer makes its exit to the lowlands south. The plane at once changed course and turned west along the southern front of the Sare Range to find the spot where the Fly similarly comes out of the mountains. Both Palmer and Fly come out through immensely deep gorges similar to that of the Strickland. We turned into the mountains once more through the Fly gap and passed up the Bol, tributary of the Fly along the northern face of the Sare. That face was definitely precipitous and between the Sare and the Dap Range a connecting ridge some 6000 feet above sea level separated the basins of the Bol and the Palmer. The above description is doubtless confusing, but the drawing that goes with this account ought to help clear the matter up. For the second time we flew out through the Palmer gap, and this time dipped down from 2000 meters to examine the possibilities of using one of the reaches of the Black, Palmer or Fly for landing on. One or two spots offered distinct possibilities of success. We flew up and down the rivers just on a level with tree tops the while we examined for depth of water, absence of snags, etc.. That job finished we cut across to the west to take a look at the Alice or Teddi River. That one proved to be n. g. so we headed for home, getting a distinct glimpse of Lake Murray at 10.48 and reaching Daru at 1*.23.
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L. 12, P. 6. Wed. Mar. 25. The third trip was planned so that we might look over the new Lake Marguerite and also get a closer view of the Leonard Murray Mountains, after which we would head for home. It was suggested too that since Champion has shortly to patrol the Turama River we should go up by way of that stream to its source and after seeing the Lake and the Mountains, return down the Bamu River. We left aru at 6.58, crossed the mouth of the Fly, the wide delta portion between 7.12 and 7.29, the mouth of the Bamu at 7.34 to 7.39; and entered the Turama just at 8 o'clock. Almost at once I noticed a line of hills well developed between the Turama and the next river to the n.e. the Kikori. We raced up the Turama keeping the hills always on our right, until at 8,17 we began to edge over onto the ridge, which proved on examination the consist wholly of limestone whose surface was etched into millions of hummocks and hollows a hundred feet high or deep. The whole was covered with forest. The bearing from the mouth of the Turama to the Leonard Murray was 300 degrees. To the south stretched the plains that reach away across the lower parts of several rivers as far and the Fly and beyond. Over the now broadly extensive limestone area we could see the Kikori river and beyond it a series of great mountains rising tier on tier to the clouds. A smother of cloud and mist obscured the view for a few minutes, but with its passing Leonard Murray stood out clearly with every line clean cut. It took just one glance to see that the so-called range was in reality a huge volcanic crater with one side torn out. While we were still some ten miles or so from it we curved around and flew east by north bearing on Mt. Melibe to discover the location of the new lake. No difficulty was found in locating the lake which appeared about thirty miles from the volcano. A long narrow piece of water deep and dark, long and narrow with an island in it and several points of land paralleling the long sides. It was placed among great limestone ridges but had many places where the shore was flat and extensive. At the ends especially immense swampy meadows or grasslands could be made out. A number of native houses were to be seen both on the shore and on some of the islands. Leaving the lake whose length (some six miles) ran northwest - southeast, the ship was headed back for Mt. Leonard Murray, our object being to get a glimpse into the crater. We passed close by its nw corner at 3200 meters, high enough to see that it was extinct and that the inner walls of the crater were very steep; then started back on a southerly bearing to trace the Bamu river (on which yesterday's waterfall seen at 7.55) occurs. The course of the Bamu and the Awarra which we picked up shortly afterwards, indicated that we were flying above a ridge extending out from the base of the volcano. Some time later both rivers turned southeast and united to enter the Bamu estuary. Daru was reached about 11.10 a.m. Spent the afternoon with Cahmpion trying to get our newly acquired information into map form. Thur. Mar. 26. Planned a trip to pass straight up along the eastern edge of the Leonard Murray crater onto the plateau of limestone seen half right during the second trip; thence west to observe the Fly basin from greater altitude; and then home "as the crow flies"!. Before we reached the Fly delta however I inadvertently pulled a switch on the radio before something else and something still burned out. So we had to return. The set was not especially damaged but it could not be repaired until too late to make a fresh start. A couple of parachute drops were made in the afternoon also a rice bag enclosed in a second, loose large bag. One chute failed to open. The second had about twenty yards of drift only and the rice bag was successfully landed. Champion and I spent the entire afternoon mapping. In the evening Brass, Champion, Rand and I correlated our notes on the first three trips with the idea of eliminating errors of observation and filling up individual omissions. The plane leaves tomorrow with Archbold, Rogers and Champion for Port Moresby. Champion will return later by boat and we hope to run the deferred trip about April 5th. A summary of the whole geographical layout will be drawn up by me later on.
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L. 12, P. 7. Fri. Mar. 27. Everybody got up a bit late, especially Rand, Brass and I. We were not on deck until 7.30. The ship only left about 8.45. The weather has changed. Instead of the fine clear wea. we have been having for our flights into the hills we have a morning of rain. Rogers just radioed us that they are going to stop for 3/4 hour at Yule island which is about 60 miles this side of Port Moresby. They return here to Daru either tomorrow or Sunday. In the afternoon Rand, Brass and I got together and put together all our data on the Second Flight (to the mountains north of the Fly and the Strickland) with Champion's bearings. The work took until nearly five o'clock. Sat. Mar. 29. Snowday. Turned out a soaking wet day. As above, we worked over our mountain data, this time doing the Third Flight (to the Turama river, Mt. Leonard Murray and Lake Marguerite). That work occupied until about 2.30 in the afternoon. The whole gang was invited out in the evening to play "bridge" and poker at the Leydens'. We must manage to give a party ourselves soon. the evening Archbold came through on radio to say that they would be returning on Sunday. Sunday, Mar. 29. We managed to get the observations made during the First Flight (to the headwaters of the Fly river, lowlands only, and the Lake Murray) just before the aeroplane arrived. It seems that the radio man at Port Moresby picked up my broad cast made during some of these trips and rebroadcasted them, so somebody in America may have received part of the stuff. Five small bats, apparently Pipistrellus found in crop of small blackish falcon. Saved skulls in formalin. Suggests that the falcon hunts either at dusk or at dawn when the bats fly. Mon. Mar. 30. Have spent the morning going through the Government annual reports on territories in and adjoining the area in which we are interested. Yesterday we rigged up our electric lights: two big 200 watt bulbs that light the whole house. Rain most of yesterday. The plane brought no mail with it on Sunday from America. Apparently the "Montoro" missed connections down south, because Archbold waited for her. Tuesday, Mar. 31, 1936 Have to wing this letter to a close. Am going with Beach and Julstedt across the Strait up the Oriomo river for a few days. Have to get packed up, and the Thursday Island boat leaves before we get back.
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L. 13, P. 1 April 5, 1936. The following is typed from pencil notes taken from Apr. 1 to 4 inclusive, while on short trip up the Oriomo River to Wuroi and Dogwa: Wed. Apr. 1. Left Daru at 7 a.m. on Dr. Vernon's gasoline boat the Veri-veri, with Beach, Rogers and Julstedt, and a dozen of the boys. We were going up to get a motor generator and other material from the abandoned Oriomo Oil Company's place at Dogwa. We reached the mouth of the Oriomo a cross the channel which lies between Daru and the mainland at 7.30 a little too late for the best of the tide, in consequence of which we [illegible] took until nearly 3 p.m. to reach Wuroi. The tide runs all the way up to Wuroi, and the river is very winding, the total distance is nearly 40 miles. The lowest reaches of the Oriomo river are bordered with mangrove swamps with their characteristic slimy mud banks, covered at high tide; next several miles of Nipa palm, their bases submerged at high water, but their great fronds welling up to form a dense screen of foliage fifteen to twenty feet high, and their fruiting heads the size of coconuts mostly afloat. Beyond the Nipa began rain forest (that is what Brass calls it), or gallery forest, as we all it in south America, with the banks of the river no longer so muddy and all the mangroves left behind. Several interesting palms appear in that forest, among them one very tall, slender and graceful head and shoulders above the general level of the tree tops, of which Brass had asked us to get the fruit (but when we had cut several down it was found that they were out of season in April). The banks showed cut in a few places and appeared to be of shaley clay with the strata horizontal. No mammals were seen but some herons, a pair of tree ducks, hornbills, ibis, etc. All the way up (and down again) Rogers and Julstedt were set to get something with rifle or shotgun. We didn't however. The boys sprawled around asleep for most of the distance. We had a fire box on the boat and I had Mahabudi our cook boy make tea and get us some lunch about 1 ock. Wuroi is a small clearing on a ridge which abutts on the river, where there is a large galvanized iron store house, and a couple of shelter shacks, one in which old machinery is stored the other for shelter for boys. We unloaded everything and made ourselves comfortable in the big house, spending the night there. The Wuroi clearing is a little grassy opening in the rainforest edging the river, and from it a corduroyed road runs southwest away from the river, coming out in a few minutes on tea tree savanna, in the direction of Dogwa six and a half miles away. Julstedt and Rogers started out up the trail to try to shoot something, the former getting two little birds. I walked out after them a bit later, as I wanted to see how the trail was for night connecting. Wallabies were evidently rather plentiful, judging from the way the grass of the savannas was beaten down. That evening I shot three, but the moon was rather strong and their eyes did not shine particularly well. I left them lying on the trail to be picked up and put on the wagon which the boys were to push in to Dogwa next morning. Thur. Apr. 2. Saw the cart loaded and covered, then went ahead. The trail follows a ridge practically all the way, just a low rolling type of ridge, with Eucalyptus-Tea-tree savanna and of course not a drop of water all the way. There were quite a lot of birds, mostly noisy parrots and sulphur-crested cockatoos. I saw only one wallaby and he had already seen me and was bounding away at a prodigious pace. Reached Dogwa about two hours later. A big house with verandas on all four sides of it, the customary tin roof, and the whole badly run-down, with termites all through the timbers and wasps building mud nests everywhere. The house, near which are half a dozen smaller houses and shelters is finely located on the top of an open savanna ridge, from which the land falls gently away on three sides. The road comes in from the north, and the best view is had to south across arather large pond fringed with red Azolla and with water lily pads floating it, towards a great grass- covered ridge half a mile away. The hollows contain tea tree savanna for the
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L. 13, P. 2 most part, with one big patch of rain forest about a mile away to the sw. Due west there is a big clump of coconuts and another clump of trees surrounding a sink hole in the limestone which is reputed to underly the entire region. The place is supposed to teem with wallabies, and to some extent it does. That night I put them up in all directions, but the moonlight made it hard to see th[illegible] eyes and I shot only two. We made ourselves very comfortable there, and I set out some fifty traps, , my two original boys, Aia and Gororo, being with us. The climate is delightful, a pleasant cool breeze blowing through the day, and the nights, almost cold. No sandflies and next to no mosquitos. Friday, Apr. 3. I was disappointed that the traps brought nothing in. However we skinned the two biggest wallabies (they weigh about 70 lbs. I judge.) And a man brought me a big fruit bat. Archbold had worked the place pretty thoroughly a few years before for nearly a month, so I was there chiefly to acquaint myself with the lay-out of the place, although of course I wanted what mammals I could get during our short stay. Natives brought in baskets of bananas (green), taro, papaiya and sweet potatoes. which we appreciated very much. They cost a few sticks of tobacco only. Saturday, Apr. 4. Packed up and left about 9 o'clock. It had rained all night. In the traps a young Uromys. Again I walked ahead. Rogers had taken out the motor generator the day before, so we had only about the same load to take back as we had brought in with us. Weather cloudy and cool. We reached Wuboi without incident and piled on board the Veri-veri, and cast off just about at flood tide, which was almost perfect for getting us downriver by sunset. Crossed to Daru, getting ashore about 7.30 in the evening. The story of the Oriomo Oil Co. is interesting. McKlean manager is said to have heard of oil indications up the river. Hydrogen sulphide emanations (which actually exist) and an oily film on the river (probably imaginary). Any how a company was put together and stock sold like peanuts at Coney Island. Boat after boat of stores and provisions, surveyors, drillers and whatnot were shipped in. Several drills started at once, and when they got down two thousand feet a barrel of oil was dumped down one of the casings unbeknown to McKlean. Large stockholders, and other interested parties were assembled and when the other drills got near the 2000 foot stratum everybody stood by to watch for the expected gusher... Instead the drills hit granite a few feet lower down. and so ended the Oriomo venture. It is written in the periodical 'Oil', copies of which we found about that 20,000 wallabies were shot by hunting boys to supply the needs of the laborers at the scene of operations, over a period of about three years. Sunday, Apr. 5. Nothing much to relate. A rather wild party got under way in the evening, entirely unpremeditated, rather the way storms develop out of nothing. Monday Par. 6. Bad news. Some doubt has been thrown by Rogers on the quality of the gasoline supplied by Vacuum Oil for the plane. We wiressed them at Melbourne last night to give formula and explain means of testing for lead content. Went around and had a chat with Dr. Vernon. He told me that while driving with Beach in the Oriomo truck (of former days) along the trail we walked in along last week, a big wallaby jumped right onto him in the truck and practically knocked the wind out of him. Storm from the northwest during the night.
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L. 13, P. 3 A Tues. Apr. 7. Went out with Brass to see how he works his plant-collecting. We went along past Dr. Vernon's place and then turned off to the left. Saw a number of orchids but not in flower. Very hot. We did not get back until half past eleven. In afternoon went across to Gov't office to read up on the Annual Reports, in which are included many short reports of expeditions into the interior. Archbold developed film most of day. A number of excellent pictures already. In the evening had Port Moresby on the radio. Reception much better. Two messages in and one out. About eight oclock the "Laurabada" carrying the acting governor of Papua arrived. He is Mr. Champion, father of Ivan Champion who made the flights with us last week, and of Claud Champion who is on the government staff here at Daru. The last with his wife has just returned from four months leave of absence. Our station is developing rapidly. Sheds have been built to house the aeroplane gasoline, to contain the generator for electric light and radio power, and a workshop by the plane for Rogers has been completed. The house is now wired for electricity and a big radio mast is going up today. In fact there is so much mechanical activity going on that I begin to wonder when something will be accomplished about the expedition proper!!! The spare engine for the plane, covered by a big tarpaulin, is sitting out in the yard, and Rogers has been overhauling the second generator which we brought back from Dogwa on Saturday. Wed. Apr. 8. Today spent the morning reading "A Prince of India". Arranged in the afternoon with Brass for us to take a canoe and our boys and go across to the mainland tomorrow collecting and to spend the night at a mission village named Old Mawatta. The place has been seething with activity: Rogers and Julstedt working on the ship and radio; Rogers fixing up the generator from Dogwa; Archbold cataloguing photos; Rand skinning birds; Brass and I getting ready for the trip. A message from Sydney advised us that they didn't know how to test gas and couldn't understand what was the matter anyhow, and please ship back the two drums of leaddless gasoline. What we'll do next I don't know. Thur. Apr. 9. Rand and Archbold with Dr. Vernon are going out in the "Pitt" to the reef other side of Bobo Island, taking with them some tow lines, a couple of rifles and materials for collecting sea birds. They also carried one of the field radio sets. Heavy rain during the early part of the morning delayed the start for both parties, but eventually Brass and I with our boys left in a canoe with outrigger and the others went on board their boat. We caught the tide very nicely and were across the other side and having our lunch beofer the "Pitt" had gone anywhere at all. We watched her slow progress all through the afternoon around the end of Daru and across the channel to Bobo, and that evening we could tell by the bright light of one of the gasoline lanterns that she was anchored off the eastern point of the latter island. Old Mawatta is a village of six houses and a "mission". No missionary lives there, but one may stop by once in a while and the house is rather larger than the others and has a veranda of split cane flooring. The village is really built on a high sandy beach about a hundred yards across, having the sea in front and an extensive swamp behind it, where the water lies thigh deep. Along the back of the beach stand irregular masses of big trees Calophyllum, rather fig- like, with knobby trunks and thick leaves, and quantities of rather dense grass with the sand dune vine Ipomaea twining through cover most of the ground. The beach proper is of fine white sand, and the exposure at low tide is very ample - nearly a quarter of a mile. Along the beach, besides the Calophyllum, are several stands of coconuts, evidently old plantations. I took a walk along the shore after lunch and before sending any of my four boys out with their traps to get an idea of the possibilities of the place.
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L. 13, P. 3. B Shot a sparrow hawk among some Pandanus trees, of which scattered individuals are also to be seen along the shore. Later went back and set the boys to putting out traps. It was the first time out for two of them, so I sent one with each of the two more experienced boys. Then went down along the beach, for the tide was now nearly low, to try for some bird meat. Shot a large heron and a willet. And back at the house a big black cockatoo out of a great dead tree. Brass went back through the swamp collecting plants. A couple of the village men came with a few coconuts to sell. We bought them for a couple of sticks of tobacco. And in the evening before sundown we sat watching the "Pitt" off the end of Bobo. A bit later with the light going and supper on the table mosquitos began to swarm in. I walked down the beach with a headlight on, and got a shot off at some animals which I failed to find, so hope I missed him - probably a bandicoot. Back at the house found found that Brass had gone to bed, and the house was simply humming with mosquitos, fully half of which were Anopheline. The beasties were so bad that our boys were driven to camp on the beach around a fire as far away from vegetation as they could get. Poor Blue who had come across in the canoe with us was nearly frantic all night long, and snapped incessantly at the swarms of tormenting insects, or else made rushes from one corner of the room to another in efforts to escape the overhanging cloud of bugs. Friday, Apr. 10. Good Friday. Bright and sunny; and as the light grew stronger I could see mosquitos clustering thickly over the outside of the net. For several hours afterwards the room was full of skeeters when outside none were to be noticed! The traplines brought in eight mammals, two species of Rattus, brahhyrinus and ringens, Melomys muscalis, and a Bandicoot Echimypera. The latter had three pouch young. Brass went out, and we had not finished skinning when he came back. By that time the tide was well in and nearing high and the canoe afloat, so we bundled all our kit on board and headed for Daru, planning to get as far across as possible before the tide should turn and set against us. A few squalls with rain caught us, but we made good time and got back for lunch. Nearly across, we saw the "Kono" take a fly around, and head out over the back of the island: we guessed that Rogers was going out to take a look at the "Pitt". He had Beech and Healy with him, as we learned later; and the boat was found still miles away from the reef. The plane came over to us and our boys tried to race the canoe against her. In the afternoon I finished up the mammals: the bandicoot proved to have very delicate skin with hardly any cross fibers, as so many mammals with rather spiny hair often do. It was troublesome to take off. We had the idea about 4 oclock of throwing a party for the inhabitants of Daru; and Goodness knows we owed it to them, for no one could have been pleasanter or more hospitable than our friends here. It took less than five minutes to decide. Invitations went out by boy, and acceptances were 100%. Ensued a feverish house-cleaning, making of cake (his one and only culinary accomplishment) by the cook-boy, hanging of cheesecloth curtains across the three "bedroom" doors, setting up of "bridge" tables, stringing of more electric light wires, and additional radio aerials. The guests arrived about 8:30. and everything went over "swell". About midnight the "Pitt" floated back on the tide, the trip to the reef having been abandoned. Sat. Apr. 11. In the afternoon proposed a test of the field radio set from Beech's farm to our headquarters, a distance of only two miles. It was found that the base of the voltage divider, asbestos, was damp and high voltage leaking across. More corrections needed. Also receivers not too good. Yesterday down on the sands of old Mawatta saw numbers of little crabs, very deep shelled creatures, holding their claws vertically downwards. They ran about gregariously in companies of forty or fifty, their legs touching so that they made a rustling sound. When they reached certain patches of sand that were roughened by the sand thrown out of crab holes each one as he came to his own hole went down into it.
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L. 13, P. 4 Sunday, Apr. 12. Easter Sunday. Due to the mix-up in the radio, and the trouble over gasoline it has been decided to try to charter a boat, the "Myra" to come from Moresby and carry the field party up the Fly River as far as Palmer Junction. We will carry provisions for two months, and after the first month we shall know definitely whether things are going to work out properly for us or not. The trail-cutting gang, Willis and Healy and their men and carriers will put up some shelters for us, after which they will leave Brass, Rand and me with our boys to carry on with our regular work of collecting. The plane will fly to Port Moresby tomorrow morning carrying Rogers and Rand and some of our radio equipment, the latter being for criticism of the radio men Franks and Searl at Port. Also we hope to have the latter build for us a special receiver similar to one already built for Champion who leaves tomorrow on the Vailala for the Bamu River. Mon. Apr. 13. The plane got away in the midst of a heavy shower of rain. She had been gone an hour when we were surprised to hear her coming back again. It seemed that Rogers and Rand had forgotten to take along their microphone so were unable to communicate with us as neither knew any morse. As things turned out they must have had their transmitter all off tune for we never heard a word of them. Spent the afternoon preparing for a week's stay down at Mabaduan, a territory with granite country rock, and very near the northern tip of Australia. Brass and I are going down there tomorrow on the "Veri-veri". It is about 30 miles from here. Besides my four boys I am going to take along Rand's three bird boys and work them as well. Brass undertakes to attend to commissariat and camp details in addition to his botanical work. Am closing now as hope to have this letter get away on the "Good-will" to Thursday Island before our return from Mabaduan.
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L. 14, P. 1. Mabaduane, Tues. Apr. 14. 1936. Mailed letter no 13 last night to catch the "Good will " for Thursday Island. This morning Brass and I were packed up and ready to go by 7.30, but we decided to wait until the morning broadcast from Port Moresby just in case Moresby should give us the chance to talk to him and ask him to send for a minute to a low us to test the small receiver which we are using here. Sure enough he did, and his cw came in as clear as bell. The trouble with reception from the plane on the way to Moresby was explained as due to their transmitter being off tune. Rogers was to fly this afternoon at 2.30 and call Daru to test, and we arranged to listen for him from the boat as we went to Mabaduane. Actually we did not get to hear him, but the magneto of the engine was very noisy and perhaps killed his signals. But tonight ashore when Julstedt called me from Daru he came in very strong. The Veri-veri left Daru at ten after nine. A strong breeze abeam combined with th boat's ehgin caused us to make such good progress that we were off the place about 3.30. We had next to go a short way up the Pahaturi River, land our baggage among mangrove mud (as it was then low tide) and have the boys carry it up to the government rest house of the village. About five miles to the east of Mabaduane I noticed outcrops of ganite along a low promontory jutting out into the sea. Granite too is all about us here. The great point seen from the aeroplane flight which we did not complete, was not Mabaduane at all (as we hd supposed it) but a large island whose land must run up above 1000 feet. It lies yet another t enty miles to the west of us. Mabaduane is quite the most peculiar village I have yet come across in Papua. It is a large population fo about 600 people, governed by a council of three or four men. It has its own Church, not really following any one denomination, but self-sufficient - the Mabaduane Church. Built on sandy soil among immense rounded boulders of ganite, it presents numbers of picturesque vistas. The houses, though naturally in native style, are well constructed and show the expenditure of far more care than is given usually to house construction by natives. The committee or council was on hand to welcome us to the village, and we were shown the government house in which we intend to stay. Help was given in various ways: we were conducted to the top of the hill from which we wanted to get a general look around to assess the possibilities of the station. This evening three of the councillors waited upon us, and we had quite a discussion of hunting, etc. They speak English, broken of course, but quite understandable. The men are finely built fellows, much superior in physique to our Gossiagos. They are of course brownish black like the rest of the Papuan natives. We soon had things ship-shape at the house, but it ws too late to do anything about trapping. Wed. Apr. 15. Had a good night. Some rain. Got the bird boys out to an early start. My trapping boys soon followed with 25 baited traps each, each boy to tap a locality noted during our look around from the hill-top. The hill, by the way, is probably not 200 feet high. Everything has settled down with remarkable speed and simplicity. After the return of three of the boys I went out with them myself and put out fifty more traps among the trees and granite boulders on the hill. Next we spread the bat net. The ground is clean and sandy so we had no not the trouble which we had before of the fine mesh tangling up with grass seeds and shrubs. The net is well set and within full view of our porch, so that we can flash on it once in a while. Found rather a prize this morning: a mated pair of Ornithoptera the giant bird-winged butterflies and just beneath them the empty chrysalis from which the female had shortly before emerged. The chrysalis was on the small tree Macarangia a second growth tree belonging to the Euphoribaceae. The bird boys bought in only five birds. Hope they will do better tomorrow. This afternoon took Aia with me to set out steel traps. We went a long way along a trail to the west leading first through old garden places (grasslands now), but at length coming out on Eucalyptus savannas with occasional patches of gallery forest. Everything very wet and swampy. It is now about the
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L. 12, P. 2 height of the rainy season at Mabaduane and Daru. The characteristic feature of the savannas I have just described above is the giant nest of termites, great pinnacle-like structures, eight to ten feet in height. I suspect to that Brass will discover some new plants for the collection there. He remarks that he has already taken a number of typically Australian plants, that hitherto he has not found in New Guinea. All the little boys and girls of the village are out collecting insects and lizards, etc. for me. It keeps me quite busy making record of all the contributions so that when they have brought together enough specimens I can give each one some sort of gift. Tonight at 5 Julstedt came through clearly again (in cw of course) and we learned that the Veriveri got back this afternoon and our notes to Archbold and Dr. Vernon had been delivered. Mabaduan has been settled about thirty years according to one informant, the people coming from the Binaturi river, and still earlier from Old Mawatta, the place we visited last week. Mabaduan streets are real. It has some; and at least one has a name (King Street). The new Chrch is built of concrete blocks and has a tile roof. It seems to me that a white man must have governed that job. But close by us is a flag-staff with halliards and so forth (to which our aerial is now moored)? and a small monument of concrete commemorating the loss by cyclone of several Mabaduanites. The Streets of the town are bordered with mango and coconut trees for shade and sustenance. In fact they have very large coconut plantations. In short the village is really wealthy and no inconsiderable resources(for Papua) At ten p.m. Julstedt again came through (though fading a little) to say that the Mira is hired and will be at Daru some time after the 27th and the plane will be back tomorrow or Friday. Thur. Apr. 16. Strong wind part of the night: possibly the season is shifting to southeast. That is due to happen any day, as with the sun moving steadily north to make the summer of the northern hemisphere, the northeasttrades withdraw and the southeast winds come farther north. There is some story of Arabs having been wrecked near here and having intermarried with the natives then inhabiting this place. One or two of the "councillors" have the appearance which one would expect under such circumstances. The names of three of the head men are: Abua, Cogibu, and Bahliss. Other names I have picked up are Yamata and Tom (the latter need not be explained). The rat traps yielded more poorly than I had hoped (before getting here), but four specimens were brought in: three Rattus ringens, one R. brachyrhinus. The Mabaduane granite is a pyroxene granite in which the feldspar scrystals have reached lengths in some cases of two inches. It appears to be a true granite, unsheared, though displaying a certain amount of jointing. The exposed blocks have all become rounded in typical manner of the granites by weathering and by exfoliation. Its decomposition has provided the coarse, gritty sands which give the village such an aspect of cleanness. The granite apparently extends to a point about five miles to the east, which we noted from the boat. Westward no more is to be seen. In addition on the beach at the western end of the village there is an outcrop of what may be a highly metamorphosed sedimentary series, which originally contained rounded pebbles. Those rocks show what I think are true bedding surfaces, but are shot through with quartz and other alteration minerals. Moreover the sea has been working upon them. The flat island Saibai a few miles to the south of us (in Queensland territory, incidentally) is stated to have no granite exposures. The last mentioned rocks could conceivably be the sandstone beds of Daru after exposure to and intense baking by the hot granite intrusion. In that case however there would have had to be immense thicknesses of rock above them, since the very nature of granite is a rock which cooled far beneath the earth's surface. This afternoon went up hill to try shoot a couple of birds (along the trap trail made yesterday). The mosquitos were so bad that I could hardly look about
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L. 14, P. 3 for swatting at them. Birds were few up there. Next went west along the beach. The shore side is planted with quantities of coconut trees, some scattered mangrove trees grow on the seaward side a little below high tide mark. They are in sand in stead of the customary mud though. On way back met large flock of parroquets and bagged a couple. Heavy shower developed once more. A very old man of the village told us he remembered "Italia", which turned out to be D'Albertis the veteran Italian explorer of the Fly river. D'Albertis spent a long time at Katau the village from the present Mabaduane people came. To check up the old man, who had said that several Katau men accompanied D'Albertis up the Fly, we asked him to give us the name of one of them. He thought the matter over and gave us a name which Brass looked up in his noted and found correct. Now D'Albertis was here in 1875 or 6, and the old man said he was just a picaninny then, so that makes the old fellow a shade over 60. His name is Awda. Fri. Apr. 17. Went along the beach with light for about a mile. But saw nothing, and turned back when got far along between mangroves and coconuts. The village dogsraid us at night, climb the steps and make for the kitchen. Blue, instead of acting as policeman, apparently keeps open house for them. Last night Brass after chasing one out, got mad threw the entire steps down off the porch so that this morning no one could get either up or down. Took a Macroglossus bat out of the bat net last night. Nothing caught in trap-line. Rebaited a lot of the traps with shredded coconut. A bird boy brought in a lot of parroquets which plan to use for bait in steel traps. Have everybody just now skinning birds, - mammal boys as well. This afternoon a short way away in the village a great crying and roaring broke out among the people. It turned out to be the death of an old woman and the noise was a general sign of grief. It is still going on as I write. The three eggs of a pheasant cuckoo were brought in by a bird boy Aulea. They had just begun to incubate. The nest was on the ground out at the savanna where the giant ant-hills are. Brass brought in pieces of rock which look much like sandstone. They overlie the ganite on top of the hill. Thye appear to show no bedding planes whatever, are possibly not sandstone but pieces of the same granite greatly decomposed. Three specimens of the "frog-mouth" a giant member of the night-hawk family with strong, horny beak were shot this morning in the savannas. Another of the boys brought in a carpet snake about 7 feet long. It is being skinned, as it is too big to be pickled at this camp. At 5 ock received Julstedt, who said that the 'plane had come at 1.10 p.m. and that there were 5 letters for me. That 's the best news I've had for some time. Sat. Apr. 18. Rain for half the night. Another Macroglossus in bat net. Two R. ringens, one R. brachyrhinus and two Melomys muscalis in traps. Took a long walk out along the trail to the savannas; found most of it under water. Saw several pheasant cuckoos, and numbers of the gregarious parroquet of which we have taken such a large number of specimens. The morning cleared off quite nicely about eleven oclock and the wind blew from the southeast. Here, at Old Mawatta and at Daru quantities of water-rounded pumice is to be seenat the top of the highest reach of tides. It evidently represents material shot out of some volcano a considerable time ago in order for it to have become water-rounded, and it has gradually been accumulated and left at levels above ordinary tide level and in mangrove swamps. At quarter to five rain again; the northeast has once more prevailed against the southeast "trade". Two long-necked turtles, little fellows, with green sea algae growing all over their backs have just been brought in. A little while ago all the ladies and children of the village under the able escort of Abua the Church councillor were brought to see the birds and mammals collected. You never saw such a mob or heard such a chattering. About once in each half
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L. 14, P. 4 hour there is a dog fight: usually a multiple fight, about five against one. The fight lasts at most about thirty seconds, then each participant goes about his business. The children here (and there are lots of them) are always at play. Marbles is perhaps the most popular game, but just chasing about, or running back and forth through puddles (they aren't overburdened with clothes) or hunting for mangos just fallen from the trees. One little fellow had his Father's fish spear and was busily jabbing the toes of all the bigger children. Sun. Apr. 19. Fair all night. The southeast seems to be establishing itself gradually. So the paths should begin to dry up a bit today. Everything until now has been under water. Four R. ringens and one Melomys muscalis were brought in this morning. Bright sunshine all morning. After clearing up the skinning went out taking photos. In spite of possessing their own Church, no service is held because the Samoan missionary who normally presides here is away. I asked one of the "councillors" whether they held the service ever. He said that if the missionary had left instructions so to do that they would have done it. The councillorship, it seems, descends from father to son. Egoego shooting boy brought in a female wallaby (M. agilis). Blue was very funny about it. He took possession of it as though to say "that's the wallaby I've been hunting for days", and growled at all the boys who came near it. The animal appears identical to those I shot at Dogwa. 't was taken a few miles outside Mabaduane on the tree savannas. The boy said he saw others. In the afternoon took a walk out towards the "port", where we first came ashore. Also went a short way along trail to east of hill leading through second growth grasslands to gardens. Found the water considerably reduced. Hope that by another 24 hours, if dry weather continues, walking and collecting will be much improved. Mon. Apr. 20. Shotan Eptesicus Pipistrellus at dusk last night; and in the small hours, about 2 a.m. heard the heavy swish-swish of flying-fox's wings. They turned out to be Dobsonia, two of which I shot. The eyes of Dobsonia shine strongly with an orange light, and I distinctly saw one feeding: A mango hung at the end of a long stalk, and the bat hung by its hind legs from the base of the stalk so that its mouth came on a level with the fruit. I begin to suspect that the eyes of the other fruit bat genus, Pteropus either do not shine at all or glow much less brightly. Brass has gone out to the savanna taking his lunch with him today. My boys probably skimped the rebaiting of their traps yesterday (Sunday), as only two animals, R. brachyrhinus and Melomys muscalis were brought in. It is to be noted that in Dobsonia the pubic arch of the male is as in most animals completely fused. In the female however the pubes remain widely separated, connection being gained solely by means of an elastic ligament, which joins the inferior (anterior) tips of the pubes. Checked up Aia's trapline this afternoon. Also give him a single-barrel shotgun for the first time. He declares he knows all about shooting. We'll see. Brass came in to report that botanically the savanna is very uninteresting, being very limited in numbers of species. He brought a fish, shot with shotgun. Tonight a Kiwai canoe or two arrived from Daru. Turtle is being cooked here and there about the village. Little boy accompanied by hist father came to present a coconut to us. Expremely shy and departed with all haste. Tues. Apr. 21. Traps caught one R. brachyrhinus, one R. ringens. Another Macroglossus in the bat net, but this one caught in corner close to tree where net tied and attacked and killed by ants.
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L. 14, P. 5. Arranged a set of prices to be paid for mammals brought in good condition: Echidna 10/ Scrub wallaby and Cuscus 5/ M. agilis, Dactylopsila, Dromicia, Isodon, Echimypera 3/ Petaurus 2/ Uromys, Hydromys 1/6 all other bats and rats 1/- Have made arrangements to go out to spend the night at a native hut near the savannas a couple of miles from here. Taking two boys with 20 traps and a local lad as a guide. Expect to do some light collecting, and hope for a cuscus or a kangaroo before the night is over. Leaving about 4 oclock, so I'll not hear Julstedt's broadcast. The boys have developed quite an unusual technique for rebaiting trap-line: they carry the usual combination bait. And while putting that in the trap and se-setting the thing they chew up a piece of coconut. The last operation is the scattering of chewed nut over the surface of the trap. Local names for some mammals (Kiwai language): Rattus ringens, Huapu-keakea; the former a woodd rat; Rattus brachyrhinus, Genoho (a field rat); Echimypera, Iare (bandicoot); Uromys, Gahge (mosaic-tailed rat); Small bats, Pipite; Macropus agilis, Kipap (brown wallaby); M. orimo, Woosaro (Red-legged wallaby); M. brunii, Bio-usal (Black or scrub wallaby). Just as we were getting ready to leave, Taikudo brought in a female Echimypera (bandicoot) with three young in pouch. It had been killed by a rat trap in the mangrove line of traps near the "port". Pouch young: 2 females, 1 male. Wed Tues. Apr. 22. Yesterday afternoon we set out at 4 p.m. sharp, taking my two boys and a local boy and his brother to show the way. We made good time and got to the house soon after 4.30. At once sent Kanamoia with one of the locals to st his 20 traps, and Aia with the other boy out with a gun to se whether they could pick up something before dark. I went out myself to locate the trails for jacking after dark. The little house was nothing but a bark platform with a palm-leaf roof over it. It was placed at the junction of a savanna with a narrow strip of forest, flooded, which separated the house from Bahliss's garden, for the two local lads with us were Bahliss's children. We found a very few and scattered signs of wallaby, but nothing to indicate that they are common there. No signs of any other kinds of mammals. At 7.30 I went with my light over miles of savanna trails, and the only eyes I saw were those of two nightjars and a Dobsonia bat which flew over and was gone. Got back at 10.30 very tired from continually slipping about in the muddy water-covered tracks. This morning took another walk around and then came back to Mabaduane. There found that Taikudo and Gororo had caught two Melomys and two Rattus. Another canoe has come in and Brass heard that the 'plane left yesterday for Port Moresby. I heard Archbold talking with Julstedt two nights ago (A. and Rand are in the "Veriveri" out at the Barrier Reef), and Archbold said something about J. going to Moresby to get some special transmitter fixed up. A spotted cuscus (Phalanger maculatus), female (paradoxically the females have not the spotted pattern), has just been brought in from across the River Pahoturi and about 5 miles away. It has been killed by dogs but seems to be otherwise in good condition. It is said to have had one puoch young which escaped. About elegen I was amused to watch a procession coming towards me across the square: Aia the hunter carrying nothing but his gun, staking along with an air of utter satisfaction, the lad who had been with him, axx carrying a pole from which was slung a cuscus, next Kanamoia and the fourth boy carrying the baggage. They were a trifle crest-fallen to learn that a cuscus had arrived an hour earlier. This afternoon another female wallaby was brought to us. And along about 5 ock a third, very large male. (both M. agilis). After, or rather during supper Blue created a considerable disturbance by eating most of the tail of newly skinned wallaby which was heavily loaded with arsenic. We decided to give him a salt and warm water emetic at once. We at length got about two bottles of the stuff into him, but it took two boys to hold him, while Brass opened and held his mouth and I poured the dope down. Brass unfortunately
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L. 14, P. 5 got two punctures and some bruises on his hands during the process, which we washed thoroughly in strong lysol solution afterwards. Thur. Apr. 23. This morning Blue is still feeling pretty sick, but that may be from the salt and water which he had to swallow. He is of course absolutely empty too, but no doubt a meal now will brace him up considerably. Two Melomys and two Rattus in traps; also a little boy brought us a Pipistrellus bat. The boys are skinning the large wallaby brought in last night. In the afternoon took the trail east of the hill which Brass has described as leading out by the nearest way to the savannas. Found them well developed tree-savannas. Birds by no means plentiful. Tracks of wallaby rarely and of bandicoot quite a lot in soft spots on the trail. Got back at 4.45 in time to listen for Daru. Archbold came through by voice which was barely understandable through the noise of the power generator which he was using. I got only part of what he said, among which were: the Veriveri can get to us at the earliest on the 25th, that the plane is due back tomorrow (24th), that everything, including radio, got very wet when he and Rand went out to the reef. Found that Bahliss had been true to his promise of the morning and had brought in two of the little "scrub wallabies", little blackish things that live in woods instead of savannas. I don't remember whether I have noted that "scrub" in the Australian sense means forest, and "bush" means tree-savanna. Fri. Apr. 24. This morning only one raté, a Melomys. Relying on Archbold's statement that the "Veriveri" could not possibly come before the 25th, I had another bunch of traps set a couple of miles out from here in the tree savanna. In the afternoon two specimens, male and female of Zaglossus, the spiny anteater or egg-laying porcupine were brought to me. Skinning them took up the rest of the boys' time for most of the p.m.. Traps were rebaited however. About 5 ock. we heard the engine of the "Veriveri", a day ahead of the time given last night by Archbold. Tonight's radio (by voice of Archbold) was virtually unintelligible on account of the noise sent out by his generator. Morse in my opinion is absolutely "de rigueur" with that set-up. Sat. Apr. 25. Brass and I had packed up most of our specimens the eveing before, and when the boys had brought back the traps we soon finished matters that yet remained to be completed. I called a pay parade among the villagers who had brought me specimens from time to time, and they were paid off with shillings or sticks of tobacco as seemed appropriate for the services rendered. Then the boys carried everything down to the Port and out by boat to the "veri veri". We had hardly become established before rain began; and worse still the native engineer had to take out all the spar plugs and clean them before he could start the engine. Meanwhile the rain fell in sheets before a strong southeast wind and every seam in the deck poured water in upon us. We atlength opened a tent-fly belonging to the expedition and covered the entire upper works. Not until after eleven oclock did the ancient vessel get under way, and once outside we hauled up sails and tacked steadily against the gusty breeze. Along in the afternoon the showers moderated and toward evening we sailed under a fairly clear sky. And at seven oclock the engine stopped: we had run out of gas. Brass and I damned somebody's carelessness in sending out a boat for us which had only a single case of "benzene" aboard. Meanwhile we had just sighted the treetops of daru above the horizon. During the night we tacked steadily against a light but unintermittent east breeze. Showers fell at intervals and everything got pretty wet. And down was very uncomfortable with eleven of our own boys and a crew of four other Papuans, so Brass and I stayed on deck with a blanket apiece
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L. 14, P. 6. In the morning we found that by tacking all night we had only gained about one mile. However after coffee we felt better and as the day cleared up and the wind pulled over a trifle more south we made fairly good speed until just off the island. There we found the tide against us, and had to make three or four more long tacks to get up to the pier which we reached about eleven oclock, having taken just on 24 hours to do what we ought to have accomplished in eight at the most. At Daru things were about the same. A garden had been made, drains finished about the house, and the plane with Rogers and Julstedt was away in Port. Rand and Archbold reported a more or less fruitless trip out to the reef, but at least they saw it. But the most important thing to me was that I found a lot of mail waiting. The "Maira" (that is how it is spelt, it seems) is due about the 28th, and we all expect to get away on her before many more days have passed for Palmer Junction. Meanwhile a mail notice has come around for a boat leaving tomorrow for T. I., and this letter goes with her.
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L. 15, P. 1 Thursday, Apr. 30. For the past couple of days have all been occupied in getting things sorted out and packed up for the trip up the Fly River on the Maera. She was due this afternoon from Moresby, but up to now has not put in an appearance. The plane brought a new radio set back with it the other day which seems to work well - at least we are able to work Port Moresby with it. It is run on the old generator, and now the generator itself is beginning to act up a bit. But I suppose Rogers will overhaul it and get it in good shape to be taken up-river. The night before last we were all (in fact all of Daru) bedden to a party at Dr'l Vernon's. The Doc. is going away on a trip to the Bamu River shortly in the "Veriveri", and invited everybody as a farewell gesture. Last night we had him to supper w'th us. Tonight we all go up for the evening to the Champions' place, and tomorrow I am going out to "eydens' for supper and (I suppose) bridge. My boys have now reached the stage where they not only set traps and catch specimens and skin them as far as the "making up" stage, but in the last two days I have started lessons in the final making up of skins. Two of them have taken hold very quickly and I have good hopes for the other two. Spent a good part of today getting a tracing of Champion's map which he prepared from data gathered during his flights with us. That is Claude Ivan Champion. Ivan's brother and his wife are the couple whom we visit this evening. By this time Ivan Champion with his companion Adamson must be well up the Bamu on the "Vailala" by which they traveled from here, and ready to transfer to canoes. Woodward the Resident Magistrate of Daru is with them but returns here on the Vailala.
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L. 15, P. 1 Thursday, Apr. 30. For the past couple of days have all been occupied in getting things sorted out and packed up for the trip up the Fly River on the Maera. She was due this afternoon from Moresby, but up to now has not put in an appearance. The plane brought a new radio set back with it the other day which seems to work well - at least we are able to work Port Moresby with it. It is run on the old generator, and now the generator its if is beginning to act up a bit. But I suppose Rogers will overhaul it and get it in good shape to be taken up-river. The night before last we were all (in fact all of Daru) bedden to a party at Dr. Vernon's. The Doc. i, going away on a trip to the Bamu River shortly in the "Veriveri", and invited everybody as a farewell gesture. Last night we had him to supper 'th us. Tonight we all go up for the evening to the Champions' place, and tomorrow I am going out to "eydens" for supper and (I suppose) bridge. My boys have now reached the stage where they not only set traps and catch specimens and skin them as far as the "making up." stage, but in the last two days I have started lessons in the final making up of skins. Two of them have taken hold very quickly and I have good hopes for the other two. Spent a good part of today getting a tracing of Champion's map which he prepared from data gathered during his flights with us. That is xxxx Ivan Champion. Ivan's brother and his wife are the couple whom we visit this evening. By this time Ivan Champion with his companion Adamson must be well up the Bamu on the "Vailala" by which they traveled from here, and ready to transfer to canoes. Woodward the Resident Magistrate of Daru is with them but returns here on the Vailala. This is all that was typed of letter # 15.
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Visual signals from land party to ship are to be in three foot squares, red, yellow and white calico, the signals to be twenty feet over all. All's well RED RED. Trouble. All being forced back to river landing RED. YELLOW WHITE Sick man to be sent out as soon as possible RED YELLOW WHITE. Need dysentery medicine YELLOW RED WHITE. YELLOW Willis will be at river landing RED WHITE RED. Willis will not be at river landing RED YELLOW RED Will not need food RED RED WHITE WHITE.
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L.16. p.1. Fly River trip - Sunday May 2nd I have left my typewritin in Dava after all. Weight is such an all important matter that it seemed better to do so. Yesterday afternoon, Brown + I went the rounds of the place saying good-bye to everybody. The boat was loaded + the boys had been put on board by 3, but we didn't get out to her until around 4:30 + even then Rogers + Dulstolt stopped for a 'wet dock in darlin' (if I've spelled that right? ) party day today we have been at the mouth of the river which we anchored last night to get a pilot from Katavi. This morning shortly after up-anchor the oil-feed of the engine went out of order & it with one or two other minor up airs but us about 4 hours. The result is that we are now only about level with the upper ends of the large islands and 'now' is 6 o'clock. I've had tried to find a spot suitable for pretty some if our boys come to sleep, but so far nothing very good has appeared. Last night everybody slept on board, of course.. We're are just three whites here, Brown + I, as the Captain engineer Nicholson. He has certainly had to work today! I got in touch with Dava this afternoon at 15 and they are smoking the first of two projected flights tomorrow morning, and will stop by to give us a chart which I requested. Static was very bad + I had to ask for c.w. By the way our new short wave station only has a frequency of about 7000 kc, tell Blom, and we have scheduled at 4:30 pm and 6:45 a.m. Paper time. I have just been trying a 'radio box' to start + stop the motor generator. Have also been attending two of the men who have ulcers. Besides our own boys we have 6 others including,
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a sergeant (Healy's men) and the crew of the "Maria" make (with the crew whose number I don't know) 65 in all. The lower part of the fly is like a great inland sea with huge low islands scattered thru it its shores fringed with endless rows of mangrove trees and Nipa palms. Last night I had my cat spread on top of the cabin but the wind was fresh even at anchor and I nearly lost the single tarpaulin while that speeded over me as a precaution against storms though sudden little gusts of wind try to take it away with them. It was not until half past seven or eight then we came to a village named Auti on the northern end of Riurai island. We had anchored in deep water that now like a mill race with the falling of the tide. A number of canoes came out to us across the rushing current their crews paddling for all they were worth. In the light of a fairly good moon we purchased some provisions - sweet potatoes eggs etc. And sent off a member of our boys to pass the night ashore as guests of the village. Such a plan gave all opportunities to stretch out. Apparently Auti is a well organized village with a police constable of its own. Our own police sergeant is to sleep ashore. And all will be waked in the morning by the firing of a gun. Monday, May 4. We had heavy rain during night - a very muddy morning. Didn't get far inland & under way still about 7 it. I got through to Dano OK - 2 messages each way; off his track Monday at 8.15 + made daily schedule. Needed a salter bar but got off safely on rising tide. At 10 o'clock we reached Madiri where we went ashore to visit Mrs Crofting, a lady with kindly disposition and
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at the same time just strength of character is in charge /16 of the big rubber & coconut plantation. She has as assistants two young men Drysdale and Gordon. There is also a mission station at Maderei we met two women who teach them, Misses Harris Smith. The latter was teaching school - the youngsters all squatting on leaf mats doing sums from the blackboard. Iris Corby gave us tea & custard cheese & then took us out to show us around. The whole plantation is frightfully wet & muddy but she attacked things at all determinedly. She tails fine with Yorkshire, England & talks with a hard accent. Off away from Maderei about noon Drysdale & Gordon came on board for a 'spot' before he left. The latter is a new comer but I found that he has seen quite a bit of South America. Passed a dry lagoon on Smith banks &nd I from. People all dressed up in red rain's but we didn't 8thp. River lined with fresh water mangrove or 'firefly trees'. About 6 o'clock we stuck on a solid bank and were still on at 8, waiting for to reach of the rising tide to float us. At 9 pm the tide came a trifle later, at 9.10 a swirling torrent swept us off the bank & up stream. So nearly full moon gave us ample light to land by. Nicholson stayed up on deck until 3 am by which time we had passed the manor part of the river where the fire is likely to occur. Then we came to anchor below the Deifer park April Street St. Tuesday May 5. This morning wind for Diane that the plane was started out (had left at 6:30) & would see us soon. So we stayed anchored thinking she would come to us. Apparently she needed drenching in the morning as at 9 she hadn't come, though I had heard it.
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"talkin' to her. So at 9 we up-ed an' set r' away. 11 a.m. Running among the Fairfax Islands, shown of both main river & islands - rather low but carrying heavy forest. Saw one abandoned shelter. Our boys sporting their new shirts & all keeps the paper levels on them. Just ran ahead once more - got it - stuck again at 11.30 for 20 minutes... We had to look a way & go up the left bank on the other side of one of the Fairfax Islands. Our shift blown around - Occasional high clay (or sandstone?) extends across to hold the route in place. (1 pm), or at least the left bank. 2.30 to 3 got stuck again his to wind slighly out with soundly leaded to find channel. 3pm In minor channels, 300 ft wide in Fairfax gaps - vegetation heavy - betel nut palms plentiful. Heavy storm all last hour. Chet far from right bank. 3.05 clear of Fairfax gaps. Passed a 'Belated Island'. 4.10 passed clearly with 2 or 3 hours, 2 min in 2 courses came out but an didnt stop. 8 pm. Our travel troubles seem over for the time. We passed alligators isles at 6 & have been traveling in 6 or 8 fathoms on river. We are a low tide limit apparently - from full tomorrow night. 8.45 pm. Passed the flares of a substantial village on the right bank of the river (now left). Bed, meal. Drove on all through the night. Lights of 2 small settlements seen. I looked out at 3 a.m. to find some sun-ups edging river's right track but still forest on left-hand side. Morning slightly or misty but soon cleared up. Past Widji station many acres that flung up pieces by first, got our way ahead Everell Tidbits in. Drove with radio jungle this morning - also noise is nearer. Uncertain as to forest in whether passed Stuckhill or no. Current more rapid - with occasional directions. Wind at river is small. Copying played with their four + occasions of 9 pm. Radio jungle from trails apparently affected by the rain. 1pm & stopped to get a little fire wood. Wood if poor quality but the boy we could find. Passed for a few plants, 2 or a new diaphora & the boys shift 3 coloured pigeons. 7 pm Past that winchwe tracks a red of the same Saccharum - scanty small trees. Until sundown the same general scenery - a wide river divining swaying contouring through low rocky country with
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occasional small lagoons set off to one side or 1/16 the other. Brass has been [illegible] — the first p. 5. if anybody of the expedition. 8:30 We passed several Tenantes, plainly seeing the mouth of the Stuckland River; so we are by no means as far along as we thought we were. The type of land between the rivers is from coral & gravel without trees but the other banks are thinly forested with forest. Came to anchor at 1 a.m. Thursday May 7. Left anchor 5:30 a.m. Weather slightly overcast. A few mosquitoes during night. Brass better but pretty well worked out. Still in route going area interspersed with forested patches. Some coconut palms seen close to river edge, the nuts rather small. 9:10 A lagoon and swampy pond (probably with 2nd fresh pass) fairly small hills not far high near left bank of river. Lines of very low ridges two miles west of us all morning. To the east land seems to rise to 40 or 50 feet, forested — probably the divide between Dry R & Lake Murray. 10 a.m. Just emerged from slight ridge area took first on ridge after naming type head. E - N - W - S again three west & heavy any NW, into area of worse grassy swamps with little or no forest climbs to north of us. Dry ridge at west terminus at its northern end by the river. A mile up the police seagant find a stone whitethor duck. Quantities of ducks, black & white stilts, & white lobam flew up from the swamps. Saw a bird, possibly white breasted curassow, with Anhinga-like flight. Eagle - major hawk. No cross. No mammal. Day partly cloudy. Plan making another exploration flight to lake (see J.'s telegram). 11:00 a.m. Headily due N. Beyond lagoon yet seen on west is -- nearly 3 miles wide, separated far north by this fair grass. Across lagoon very low hills & a village on at least 3 docks near edge. No canoes seen. 1:30 pm. Still same type country suggests of small hill to 2 miles east and slightly larger one further right 4 miles N.W. Brass at present in C — a lazyish stretch. Brass on his first hot dog cold. 2pm end of our reaches. Turn N. after hills in south desired other roads. 3:05 Course now due S. Brass
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thinks some Eucalyptusavana on left bank (curse?). Due to hard to w again start. 5 pm. Talked Tulett. Plane again livable yet eight 7 Mt Jain. Trying again tonys, if successful will put Rand Wells or Healy on board Maria. Same general type country as before but plenty evidence that river now very high as large burned patches of grass & reeds and not flooded. Came to anchor at 7.30. Put up by tarpaulin over roof of cabin. Heavy showers between 9 and 10 o'clock. Friday - May 8. Started at 5.15 a.m. but had to anchor again because something went wrong with the propeller of the ship's engine. We may be there for 3 hours. Dawn says that plane will not start out today because this morning one tire was found flat. Shops of river much as yesterday but a little more fresh & green reeds. Putting some traps ashore to cut coast, & a couple of bird traps to see what they can shoot. A large brown deer from next bend on right bank & a little brown otter. Several parts were ashore including Boxes & J. "Shre" canvass & a narrow raised strip of ground a foot above river level, well front grown millet, which dips down behind to swampy woods with big grass & pandanus. Grown for some plants & brought me a couple of weeds. I stayed about time but naturally saw no mammals. The bird boys got some grey parrots (of three sizes). 11.30 am still here. The governor is both hot & the race canoe. His bearings. For the turning gear is also pretty worn. It looked like tumble afeard for the boat. 6 pm. Here all day & staying all nighter. Boys camp ashore except personal boys. Have just down 4 local hawks: 2 Phledrura manulatus shot, also few birds. Sat May 9. Got away a little before 9. Engine a bit rough at first but came out mild. Traps caught three Indigo of a species new to collector. Orboncel (from the first port) think caught on the praint at the base of trees. No females with characteristic mammary of the genus. 9 am. A fairly well developed ridge to left, apparently running n.e.t.s. Plane again flying & may visit us. 9.30 a.m. just cut back (fully open) by above ridge. 10.30. Plane arrived 4 flight at we willin' Rand & Healy. Ryans & Tulett's looked over radar. Plane left few minutes after 2.
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new camp apart Mt Falm flat tyled, with few small ponds . wide fertile about a mile. Reed finds crevity just beyond our present position a mosaic of forest & swamps areas. This many Brass saw a port and stream enter from left bank of river. We stopped to anchor until plane left. Shortly after leaving saw another red cut tank (clear?) on our front side. 5.15 P.M. Making good head way. More front; low plain swamps. Front fertile two, + cuts off near from north east. Weather hot & sunny, thgt we had showers at noon. Wild beauties trees still with us. They have been abundant all way up dry above tidal area. Anchored at about 6.30. Sunday May 10. Weather somewhat overcast. Indolent found more trouble with the engine which will take some hours to remedy. Several snow-white frogs plus skimming algae surfaces of water just after dawn. Still parade seems high -- some so drops with colds or fever. Repaired at 8.20 (this time it was the oil feed out of order). 8.45 passed port-sized village on slopes of small hill 50 ft high. About 10 houses + probably 50 or 100 people. On right bank of river (our left). Hill about 100 feet on right bank, all forested (9.15) 10.45 Pango village; apparently the location of the Dutch mission. on 2 people in white wearing helmets seen. Village on high red banks, wooded below and level look as they are sandstone. The white-clad people we said to be Malay missionaries of Dutch Reserve. (We re-acted the Dutch Indan yesterday morning early). 11.30 A third village layed yet seen, with at least 16 houses or apparent more Malay missionaires. One house with fence. Village on banks about 6 feet above river. Men wearing shells. 1.20 Abandoned Village site (coconut stumps?) on left bank; + behind it a lagoon (it possibly a loop of the river). 4.10 Coconuts a canoe landing on left bank. (5 men seen 15 minutes earlier on right bank) 5.40 Kaye creek on left bank. 8.15 anchored. Afternoon fair & bit. May 11. Monday. Lift anchor + away at 6.14. 8.05 old camp on left bank. Reed nearly in front, from swamp. Boat says however they have place like a swamp to transfer to head bank from: 8.45 Bottoms active on water. A hulk saw but empty on right bank. 9.28 Kaye creek again.
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9.55 Large village on right bank or high mud banks 25 feet high. Almost 7 large houses most without floors, on very large house probably 50 feet deep. Profusely shaped like huts. About 40 people smoking tobacco around me who was eating breads and cheese like hams. 2 dogs - 1 brown, 1 black stem. Some people with white paint. Men wore white shells, two in clean cages. Six canoes on water, canoes with log pointed ends overhanging water like those at Lake Maney. 10.38 A new shelter on right bank. No people seen. 12.50 Passed two canoes (6 men) which had been pulled in among the reeds to give us plenty of room. 1.30 lots of drift wood coming down river. 2 cubs about 30 yards across enter at right bank. 1.50. Passed two tiny islands close to left bank of river. Sawyer's cane (Calamus), actually a trailing palm very plentiful all along the river and. 2.45 Large creek (or cut off) with fairly strong current from left bank (ly almost 6 yards wide) 3.10 Passed number of trees on which quantities of flying foxes (Pteropus) were hanging occasionally flapping their wings in the sunlight. 3.15 Stuff of stream (cut-off) mentioned at 2.45. Flying foxes are therefore resting on large island. 3.35 Strong 3 mile current at sharp left hand (down) bend of river, + overflow creek ahead of it.
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9:20. Over from dark side of sky (course ESE). Things are pretty well settled onboard now. Of necessity we are very crowded however. The tiny cabin is aft, about 4 wide by 7 long; a bunk bed either side, a table in the middle and a large amount of gear all about the floor. In addition my radio is inside the cabin. Nicholson & Mass sleep in the two bunks, and I have a cot outside against the stem well protected from the weather by tarpaulins and closer than the cabin. Up above, on the cabin roof itself, Willis & Healy sleep. A big tarpaulin has been stretched over the main boom to make a shelter over them. The boom having been raised 5 feet up the mast. Meals are cooked by our cook forward in five places made by cutting often 40-gallon steel reservoir drums and are served in the cabin! Most of our fare comes out of cans except onions & potatoes which we carry dry in crates. The day begins with coffee & the boys putting away the cots & bedding. Then comes radio contact with Dan, breakfast, radio with Pat Morenly. Afterwards while the boys clean up & do the decks, carefully we sit around & discuss plants and observe and make notes. The comes along at about 11 and level at 12:30. Afternoon ten at 4 & radio with Dave at 4:30. Before sundown a general clean up is in order. Then we gather before supper to take a small drink & at 5:15 I got time signals from California, with dinner finished we sat about & chat while the boys are getting beds & baths ready. In latter concord of water (water in a bucket slightly warmed by addition of warm water for the cooling system of the engine). As you join it pour yourself with a cup. It's good even though primitive. As I write this I see Willis dozing with one foot on the table, Nicholson glancing through an engineering magazine, Healy reading the Saturday Evening Post & Press quiet matter. Rand is up "top-side" somewhere. Press & I tried to get some interior of the cabin. Besides all the above, the two boys Blue and Strike occupy the least cas vacated spaces of the cabin floor. Such, man a less, is a day off aboard the ship's "Maia". 10:51am Another small wake from S.E (our course E). 10:40 Another well marked ridge from WE turns sheer but no cut banks showing - heavy forest. 11:30 Half closes view on left bank of fly. No house. 11:00 Crocodile on bank 12:03 House and small garden - no purple seen - house or ground,
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Miles = 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Kaban Boz Balirip MAP Saré DAP. Luap Hakim Turgom Narin Karik Donaldson Palmer Len Blücher 50°22'½ 141°30' 141°39½' 141°45' 141°52½' 142° L. 16, R. 10. 5°0.½' 5°15'
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12.30 reached the old Oroville camp which was headquarters L.16. P. 11. Growth, cpr for a gold prospecting company. It is in a 50 foot track on the right bank of the river and this airfield was official. The houses were well built native type & the place would make a wonderfully good collecting station. In 6 months trees and large convolutes and green have almost smothered the place. The settlement comprised about 15 houses various sals + was carved out of heavy forest 1.30 left Oroville camp. 2.50 3 men + a white bird seen in front clifg left bank. A Ridge, fructal on same side. 3.15 A large orchid with several whiti flowers hanging from dead limb above water. 5.08 Passed large rocks (Elevs?) from left bank of fly. 5.45 Another large creek (whether this one provides me the Elands khrw) from left Bank, 6.30 anchored. Wednesday, May 13. Anchor up at 6.15 am. A high cut bank indicates the end for ridge (6.20) on left shore. River about 150 yards width. 7.15- River changes course any low ridges; we came up it northwards, then turned sharply west. Some reddish clayey rocks with indications of hardening down near water level. River seems to be falling slightly. 7.15-7.30 Passing large fructated island which lies almost left bank of river. This is probably macronson Island in which case the length of the two streams observed yesterday afternoon (at 5.08) was the Elands. A good deal of D'Albetics creeper (scarlet flowers). Passed two trees with fruit lots (Pterpus-) hanging all over them. 8.08 Six or eight big fruit bats flying steadily northwards: new animals appear to be semi-aerated at least. 8.40 Ground becoming quite hilly: hills 150 feet high. Rain said bar just not fit for a party. 9.35 On last 15 minutes, have been going up the long E-W stretch at about clear but we expect to establish our base. A circle tenting left bank fly (a cannon tied up there). 10.50 For the last hours great quantities have been driving up against strong current and several shape terms in the river while we had hard work to make land dry against the whirly current. In plan to go to Palmer Junction further to check our position and then drop back to the first selected base camp site from the aeroplane. 11.15 Reached Junction (Palmer). 11.50 Rand + Nicholson with four boys took the dinghy - rowed up the Palmer, The idea being to move definitely
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"Whether we are anchored at the true junction or just below an island (perhaps Macoroni). Stinging bees beginning to invade us as we lie at anchor - little black fellows. Weather: quite a lot of rain during night, clearing towards morning. Fair all morning. 1.45 Boat returned satisfied that this is indeed Palmer Junction. 2.20 Get ready to row down - steer - to the east end of the long E-W reach (passed at 8.40). (2.30 About 8 men seen across the Fly of the spot on my sketch (p11) marked "Passa". 3 pm: We have just run downstream again and tried up to the left bank of the Fly at 528 miles as surveyed by McGee. This spot is readily accessible from the plane and by cutting tracks from the river for 50 yards we reached the top of a small hill where the boys went to work on a clearing. We also found marks in the trees indicating that a police camp had previously been made there (we believe it to be Karini's & Champion's camps). The entire shore is under very heavy forest of the forty fells - rain - forest type. Brass found adonax. I sent a long message to Duke and sent my boys ashore to set out traps. Thursday, May 14. Heavy rain during night. Small boat seen at dawn skimming over water surface. Stinging bees on job by 6.15. Clearing getting cleared quickly but we shall probably not get ashore today. Took my four boys out with traps! The places look pretty good too, nothing in the traps the boys put out last night, but saw about half of the "sets" and they are not very well placed. The old Karini-Champion trail is being reopened. Set traps along as much of it as was finished while it is about 5½ miles. Would very hit clear. At noon found that we were being visited by about a dozen men of a local village across the river. A couple were bearded. The female dress was a study around the waist and a belt. A string bag or net bag was carried slung from the shoulder. Fly most of the men. Boys savored dried native pipes were traded for beads and empty cans and bottles. Numerous photographs were taken. The noses of these people are pierced through each side above the nostril, one or two however had only the median septum perforated. A small dog had been left across the river and after hours without stopping for nearly an hour it at length swam across the 150 yards swift-flowing stream, and swam my string to.
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L.16.p.13. In the afternoon set out a lot more traps. Set a first milliped and Healy found a short, chunky, apparently non-pronimo cantho. The ground back from the river is simply ridgy; the ridges steep & with narrow crests, all bottoms with muddy streams flowing or sluggish in v valleys. The whole is forested. The soil appears clayey with occasional rounded (some angular) nodules of quartz. In the evening as the stayders bees withdrew the "six-o'clock crickets" turned up (they go from ten minutes to six until about 6.25). If Amhit & the boys are sleeping ashore tonight up at the new camp site. Friday, May 15. Rain most of the night. Disappointed to get not a single manurel in traps. Hope for better results later however. A fairly busy day. Reset the first lot of traps altogether and redacted main line. We managed to induce 20 or 30 of the local inhabitants to carry our cases up the slippery track to the camp site below, while our own boys were building the store out of posts & thatch, etc. Got some photos of these men unloading the loot. As I write (6 pm) they have been paid off (a razor blade & a few beads each) and are being ferried across to their own side of the river! One put his hand to his ear or pointed across the water meaning that he would slip on the other side. A messman from Archbold came to say that the plane will be in Dorooy to discuss further plans. The river is falling a bit, but most of the ship is unloaded, so we can pull out into mid-stream any time. A lot of white winged may flies skated over the surface this evening. Storm due this evening. By 6.15 all the may flies had finished their brief span of winged life and floated either dead or dry in mid water. In fact I believe that many must have sunk.
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Saturday May 16 L - 16 P - 14 A very busy day Today we transferred from the ships to our camp ashore though the mess material had been taken up to the newly built store yesterday a lot of material had still to be done today We have paint beside the store and tent (mess + J) with canvas fly (Radio + Lunch rooms) another fly (Rent + fruits) a deep rigged under room a barn - to - if (Press plant drying room) a Cook house Healy's tent, Willin's tent, Artide fly, 2 large floors for military traps, a leafy brown which we have and a washroom. This time there sets in traps - 2 species of Malaya. But is a shade better than the complete blank of the day before In the afternoon set out a bunch of steel traps fainted with meat. We could not start the radio until 3 o'clock but I could get to Twelfth though I could hear him calling with my own voice Had the set all up by noon, but Jim Dremas's time spoiled everything. Phones for now taken on car phone house no four sleeve just managed a call to look after. It is very pleasant to be outside than now to expand a bit, though I could work somewhat very rather more abundant caught some large beetle last night at the light. Sunday May 17. Willin's J (he burns & burnt out was engaged) twice down the radio until this morning cleared out the carbons. Set her started as last only to find that we were not getting any signal I found a tube gone poor no four with two tube in place talk to confirmation with Dames this afternoon. But fell four of my boys out shooting until 3 o'clock when they go to hunt Troop. Jim walked out along the trail for a mile or so as far on the bend of the Fly R to me. Just on the corner there is an old native burial The way in very easy & several deeply arrowed creeps direct into the hill No shelter country here invalled very tired people. But made both about our cleaning up at daybreak. This ends Letter #16.
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L. 17. P.I. Monday, May 18. At the Camp '5 miles below Palmer Junction', The plane is due this morning. We had a lot of trouble starting the radio motor and when at length we did get on air Tubal said he could not hear us. Last night tried Lertsch's insect funnel trap - a lost funnel with a very stiff upside jar open-mouthed at the bottom of it, the whole contraption hung beneath a string light. Caught ordles of small things and a probably flyger one. The plane came in early - about 9 o'clock, bringing visitors Mr. Woodward, Resident Myjistrate of the Western Division. Russell fixed up our motor-generator - at least he said it was all right. They all stayed to lunch & left about 2.15 o'clock. A little collapsible boat was used to come ashore & go on board, and afterwards it was left here. I just showed the locals some specimens of mammals told them to bring them in. Their word for rat appears to be Tutiki, and for Cuscus Simai. They called a bat Maine. Just as as the 'Reno' was getting off the water his two dogs Blue and Stink got so wildly excited that they stayed their third finger and fell into the river whence they were dragged half drowned. On both banks groups of local bushmen were gathered together to watch the evolutions of the plane. In the evening we had a little send-off party for Healy and Williet who leave in the morning. Tuesday, May 19. Some rain in night. About 30 locals a pathluff to help carry loads along the trail. Got tough easily to Dane: very sticky signals all ways. Reduced radio schedule to once a day - at 7.30 a.m. Loads were distributed among the carriers & a farewell cup of tea among the five of us whites. Healy-Willie moved off with about 70 men at 9.45. We took lots of pictures. Healy or government officer with a corporal headed the line, they sergeant traveled in the middle and two police with Williet brought up the rear. For the third time a cassowary egg has been dug up in.
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L. 17. P. 2. The second of them turned out to have been boiled. Probably its done closed off it with the green bananas which he dropped as well. He unwrapped the last one tenderly from its palmleaf crown and said "Tuce-tuce-tuce" which means not as you might expect, the call of the boly cassowary but "beeds- beeds-beeds." We showed them a picture of a monkey defying a large snake and being finally swallowed by it. They understood the last pictured of the snake lying with a big lump half way down its length, and patted their tummies to indicate their appreciation. Took a longish walk this p.m. along the new trail. Had followed it previously as far as the garden market on sketch. Ground everywhere ridgy-rough & under forest. The most interesting feature was the creek with water running. The clayey rock is there well exposed and forms to a soft, silky sandstone. Small quartz nodules blackened superficially lie loose in its bed and also some sand. I shall go back and look it over more closely. The point of this Camp is about 2 miles north of lat 6° S., and about 3 mile cast of 141° 30' east of Greenwich. 5:30 pm. A very heavy shower during which a number of swifts came wheeling & diving through the air all about camp. Rain shot fair. Wednesday, May 20. Rain and plenty of it during the night. Nothing in the bat net, though found a new bird walkin' along the top of it before bed time (my bed time). Nothing with legs either. Walked out along ridge many miles. Saw- track of Cassowary. Back in camp found that Willis had sent some boys back with a note to get more supplies. They walked Surprise Creek yesterday, and so I'll be able to post on a wire which I received for Healy this morning. Set ten traps up ridge this pm. in extra special land-picket locations. Hope for best. Slant Ains out butterfly collecting & other boys on sewing canvas cases for radio equipment. 5:20 pm. Our Ho[] of our local census came back with
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L. 17. P. 3. a note from Willis in which he stated that he had paid off some carriers & given them a bag of rice & would we give them a kerosene tin to cook it in. Also that Healy was ahead in pretty rough country. Healy must be somewhere between Surprise Creek and the Black River. went out Jacking. Saw two bats with sleepy luminous eyes - Dobsonia or Nyctomere. The sky had quietly risen from the previous two days of rain and had soaked up the first creeks so that the water was six inches below the land rail. We went down to the bank of the main river and tied down the collapsible boat and ran back ropes through the handles of all the ferrule drums (which may possibly float). Thursday, May 21. Late yesterday afternoon a very interesting bat was brought in - a tule-nosed bat apparently of the genus Nyctomere. The wings along the forearm are [illegible] mottled with yellow giving the appearance of the otherwise gray skin having been gnawed by roaches. The gray back is broadly striped with a longitudinal mark of blockish brown. But most interesting to me (I've never noticed it before) is the well developed claw on the second digit of the wing in addition to the usual one on the thumb. This is a wretchedly difficult place in which to get mammals. In ten trips out by me yesterday
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L. 17. P. 4 I not only got no specimens but only one, was even that. spung. Eight were rosted. The last is very care ted been eaten by insects. The trap caught nothing at all. The river has fallen about 2 feet. Look another look around both in morning. Found mine trap sill, but more too encouraging. This seems to be one of those fruitless areas with abundance of vegetable food and still where birds are not so common and mammals are decidedly scarce. Send a couple of the boys out again with butterfly nets. The other two are working on the radio cases. Look a turn around & rebaited - this time with corned beef. A long stay here should give ample opportunity for experimenting with baits. I intend trying also salmon, fruit, honey & cheese. Some natives just brought in a few birds but no mammals. Cia + Ravencia did quite well, bringing about 30 butterflies of 9 species. We get excellent results with the light- formal cyanide traps, taking a couple of cubic inches of smelly material each night. Smuggling up a drying shed to use heat from gasoline lanterns. Mayor. Rain last night. One day melmys & this a.m. One boy (of Bren's) quite sick - fever, cold, possible dysentery - telegrams flying to Pfo(we want him taken out.)
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L. 17. P. 5. Note regarding Melmyns: # 2254-6 and 2268 are dark-footed; # 2263 has white hind feet. In my own trips live eel came free as a failure and in the afternoon relieved with canned salmon. A tig cassowary was shot by Ego-ego one of Pard's boys. We had some of him fried for supper. Nutris came in with screaming little bananas to sell for leaves, most of them hardly worth having. Occasionally however they dig a ripe plantain or a yam. May 23 Saturday. The plane leaves for Morisby this morning at 10 o'clock. Boy still low & rather delirious. Drops today gave nothing - the salmon m.g. as bait. Principal trouble in this place is the lack of animals. They are simply not here to be caught. Yesterday morning Simon, one of Willie's two boys was sent out. He did not want to go on. From a note which Haley sent by him the trail head must be some 8 miles this side of the Blackt River. A new find made by Gororo who was collecting "under dogs material" - the tiny name Lorentziny's the type of which is the only specimen known. A raw (not fixed). Peculiarities are the long, very narrow ears, largish upper lips (like Paralydymys), large head, very dry vibrissae, dry tail, slender hind feet,
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L. 17. P. 6. And claus, mammary formula 1-2=6. The skull is short thick, young enough for the tooth pattern to be seen clearly, large parotid glands, quite small eyes. On the whole one surmises that this is a terrestrial, slightly saltatorial type of mammal of the dog family. Possibly it represents openings made by the fall of large front teeth. It had two embryos- neither side. Body preserved in formalin. The stomach contents though very finely divided suggest insect and fruit diet. This afternoon continued a long new tree for tree line that I began this morning. Rebuilt my 10 experimental traps with construction bait. Sunday, May 21. Yesterday evening managed to shoot two of a number of small bats which fly out the clearing at dusk & dawn (early dusk & late dawn). They prove on examination to be members of Emballonura, subg. Troca. Their flight is wildly erratic & butterfly- like. Nothing in trees unfortunately. Mammals certainly come in slowly here. We have 9 species and only 13 openings altogether. The macroglottus is probably distinct from the species at Davao and Mahidulana on account of its semi-complete lack of a tail. Another large Hippideris was brought in and two species
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L. 17. P. 7. of Nyctimera, both females, so much smaller and differently colored than no. 3264 that although they also possess greenish yellow marks on the wing digits & metatarsal I can hardly believe them the same species. The extremely small size 1.5 mm. of the eye opening of the Dipposiderus in in great contrast with those of Nyctimera (6.0) or Dobsonia (7.0). Two Dobsonia were bought in today, and the tail is suspended beneath the interfemoral membrane by a septum-like membrane. The second wing digit of Dopsonia is clawless but to the terminal joint crooked. The larger of the two Nyctimera females has the mammary well developed; the second one is probably young. It was alarming to meet a string of bushmen leading for our camp this pm. Each carried a single small article - one a warbler, a second a small owl, a third a bunch of bananas, a fourth a bat, or - all wanting payment in beads. Today I offered a pocket knife for a cuscus - I use t cuscus (their word simai) for any large animal, as there is the only word I know. They showed plenty of interest we shall see. There is now no doubt of the two species of Nyctimera. The female of the large one was bought in a little before sundown.
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L17. P8 Monday, May 25. A fair night. For two days though we have had quite a lot of cloudy weather rain has fallen seldom. No mammals in traps but another of the large Nyctomys brought in. Went to "third" stream where found sandstone beds in creek bottom. Got pettle of phyllite or very fine-grained quartzite which contains 5 shell-fools (?) . I found also lignite strata containing what Bress believes to be the spines of Araucaria. Also have in stream bed a piece of silicified wood (? palm) In the clay at the junction of the two streams there were small inclusions of lignite up to 2 inches long. The sandstone is a loosely compacted, friable rock with beds seeming nearly horizontal. The up-stream beds possibly indicate a slight anticlinal structure. Could not determine whether ss above or below the lignite. Both topped by several feet of heavy clay. This pm. changed my 10 experimental traps, which have caught nothing since they were set out first, from the crest of a ridge down to the river bank. Far from optimistic however, a few lots continue to be brought in by local people. Not a single rodent has so
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6.17 P.M. for been bought by them. And we have yet to see our first marsupial. Tuesday, May 26. Showers at night. Nothing at all in traps. Local natives beginning to go home to their home gardens, they come 15 or 20 still bring in odd things like bananas, crayfish, birds, an occasional bat, or fish. The bird trap still low but possibly improving. Going to give him a little more food. Bat net catches nothing but an occasional beetle here. All things together, I'll be very pleased to get away from this camp, though that will not be for a long time yet. Comprising a new lot of Eugenia fruit, coco-nut and honey. A specimen of terrestrial Melonyp brought in by locals – a female – the maximm 3.5 mm across / width third foot across the metatarsals of their toe 6.0 or more than 50%. Several more Nyctimenes including at last a male of the smaller of the two species, also a Dolsonia brought in in the afternoon. Moved the bat net to span the 'first' orch. Hope it may produce something besides beetles. Letters from Healy received were bought this afternoon by the Police Sergeant who came by raft from the Black River bringing down a police man who had cut himself with a bush knife. Healy wrote from the north bank of the Black, and Willis was due to reach the 610 mile mark on
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4. 17, P. 10 He Palmer in a couple of days. They were fortunate in getting three natives with a canoe to ferry them across the Black - and the intervening country is "not to be had". The police Sergeant with a spare man is to walk in again Tomorrow. He left the Blacks this morning early but it will take them two days to walk back. Several lots came at the last minute - Nyctimene, Hipposiderus and that tail-less Macroglomer. Wednesday May 27. Cloudy last night. Sergeant & new man left for Willi's camp this a.m. The Macroglomer bat is apparently quite Tailless, its tail being represented at best by a small tubercle. I dissected the terminal vertebrae of ? # 2291 to find out. Also in that specimen a claw appears on the 2nd wing digit as in Nyctimene. Two Nyctimene, 1 Hipposiderus, 2 species of Melonyx bought in by Turkmen - the prices, a teaspoonful of small white beads per specimen. It is noticeable that in the terrestrial species of Melonyx small ticks crawl about in the fur. I saw today when the Laurentiaip was found - a rather small dolphin lying down the side of a steep ridge close to the crest was tapped by a boy's machete, and the animal ran out of it. An exceptionally clear day sunshine since 9 o'clock this morning.
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L.17. P.11. A number of rats were to the collection - Kerivoula was brought by a local native this afternoon. Thursday, May 28. A curious incident happened y-day afternoon. I had sent out Kanamoa with 50 traps to put down a new line along the western neck of the river. About a couple of hours later Rend found saw them hunting in along the main trail followed closely by a number of bush natives. From what we could learn the boys had started back along the main trail when the bushmen's camp is and attempted to circle it without being detected. However, the bushmen saw them said "boo" & the boys put on speed, the bushy lobz meanwhile following them to me what it was all about. Anyway this afternoon just to play safe we picked up that line; happening to have trapped a rat, to have the same two boys with me and to meet a couple of bushmen gives able to put on a demonstration of the entire miscreance of the boys' behavior. Incidentally, it was a very well placed line. Not plain is in Port Moresby & due in Darn Friday and here on Monday. Archbold is holding the Dam fort alone. Terrestrial Melomys # 1308 trapped among sorts of old tree in deep forest on high steep slope leading down to river. In addition to the above 2 more ground Melomys and 5 rats
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L, 17. P. 12 turned up, brought by local people before 2 october. Later a number of other bats including a new species of the genus Hipposideriz. Temperatures here range from about 75° to 85°. Twenty six mammals (of which all except three were bats). Friday May 29. Saw two medium sized bats this morning circling high up. One possibly shot by Rand. Fair day promised. Went up trail exploring the left bank of Sly R. Dont know exactly beds overlying sandstone, & across very recent gravel beds being recut by river. Small animal tracks in mud. Have theory of the general gelogy (of this area but will wait a while before setting it down... In P.M. cut new trestles from bridge of "first" creek down-streams. The boys came back very late; they said they had been fishing, consequently eleven un-skinned bats were waiting for them. When at 5.45 they got back to camp. If they caught any fish they must have cooked seated them out in the woods. They got the job of skinning the bats which took them until 8.30 at night. The natives: what the well-dressed man with wear -- a head-band, arm-bands, girdle-shell, leg-bands just below the knee. One fellow was dressed for some form affair: his chest & abdomen + calves were coated dull red; his body was ornamented in front
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L17, P. 13 with a 4-pointed speckled star done in white, thus: and the rest of him up to his neck was rubbed over with charcoal. His face was left untouched. Another fellow gave a demonstration of a rattle dance. The rattle is a springy stick hung with many dry seed cases--is held up like a tail behind him, while he jumps around in one spot. Their pipes are odd-looking articles something like an angled piece of milk-pipering in shape. The "smoke" is poured around. They sometimes wear collars of pigs teeth strung on a cord. They stake their heads quite high in front giving the appearance of very high foreheads. They sometimes wear string net-hats. And each generally brings for one bird, bat or mouse and calls for-- "twee" (beads) in payment. Saturday, May 30. Heard the heavy swishing sound of the wings of flying foxes around midnight but by the time I had gathered together energy enough to go out a look for them they had gone. Nothing in traps. York Renamora the folding drughty went halfway up to Palmer Junction in search of the big flying foxes we was hanging on a tree when we went up by the "Daria". The bats were not to be seen. Found some bits of fossil material among fathos. Great expansures of struggle bar now explored on account of low waters.
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L.17, P.14 Sunday, May 31. Weather continues dry. One Trilops of the terrestrial species in trap this morning. Plane due tomorrow. Have 6 a.m. schedule with Dane. Continual series of bats and two or three Trilops brought in by local people. A new bat and a Trilops both new to this camp and the former to the collectors. Mammals are coming in at the rate of a hundred a week just now. Weather has changed & become rather rainy again. The Fly River is again rising. Coming back with a large cricket in my hand from setting traps I met one of the Bushmen. He saw the cricket, his mouth began to water. He explained to me by the most expressive signs how good that cricket was to eat. Not content with that he shouted to his friends in various directions that one of the white people had a cricket now taking it to camp and from all directions & country came the answers. Monday, June 1st. The plane went dry at 8.30, leaving Dane at 6.40. A good Trilops and a Phesugela the first mammal for the camp since taken by traps last night.
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Letter 18, P. 1. June 1st - Tuesday - A tremendous rush today with the coming of the plane but particularly on account of the decision to move base camp to the junction of the Black and Palmer Rivers. The "Kono" was brought down on the Palmer just below that junction this morning, & connected with Healy and Willis there. The fact that such a landing can be made and will save days of travel has led to the above decision. Archbold + Rogers had one of the Daru Kiwai boys in the plane to help make the air deliveries, but of course that proved to be unnecessary. They stayed with us until 3 o'clock and got back to Daru at 5.15 (so Tulstedt said this morning). June 2nd Tuesday. Sent the trip out to pick up traps. Meanwhile did a bunch of packing up. Got rid of almost all my mammal specimens by the plane yesterday. When the plane reached Willis yesterday it was learned that he and Healy had not progressed beyond the Black River. We think he mistook the junction of the Tully & Palmer for that of the Palmer & Blacks, perhaps. Any how then they were, recently arrived, and only a very small clearing prepared. A female Poyomys with two young, also a reddish Rhinolephus (4 specimens) brought in today. I am very pleased to get to th. They
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L: 18, P2 bring mammal species for this camp up to 18; 10 of which are bats. During the course of the next two or three days we are to be moved by plane to the mouth of the Black River. Tomorrow the plane comes in with a heavy load of gasoline & stays until she has moved everything. The flying time from camp to camp will be only 12 minutes, but loading and unloading will make a great difference to timing of the flights. A storm is coming up tonight so the river will probably rise more tomorrow. Wednesday June 3. A slight accident to the rear wheel made the trip at Dare put off today; trip until tomorrow. I learned of this at 10:15 when I kept schedule. We had most everything ready to be moved when the news came. Quantities of bats continue to bring in by the natives; though no more new species. The Nyctimene females are mostly with embryos practically ready to be born. The embryo is large - almost as wide (big) as the thoracic width of the parent, which explains the ligamentous pubic arch in these fruit bats. We had a demonstration of fire-making by a fulmar this afternoon. A short thick dry piece of stick is split partly & the cleft filled with tinder. The stick is held
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L. 18. P. 3. Down on the ground with the foot, while a piece of cutty "lawyer cane" (Calamus) is pulled rapidly back & forth around it. The stick smokes & thrusts into flame, and the operator falls backwards to the ground, appearing much exhausted. A new (?) for this camp) Determin; but it looks awfully like the big one at Dave. Archbold told me I tonight that the plane is fixed up and we are to expect them tomorrow. 31 mammals today. The natives are beginning to offer us more and more of their beads & bows & arrows & armguards and pipes. I have not tried yet to get any but want some just the same. Thursday, June 4. Fielstedt reports plane OK & likely to start about 8 am. The river has risen 6 feet. The plane has done a splendid job today, Rogers flying it alone. Three loads of people & equipment averaging 1700 lbs each have been taken this afternoon to the mouth of the Black River. Brass & his three boys and two of mine have gone. Here in camp Rand & I have had our hands full managing more than a hundred wild men of the woods. Persuading them to carry, keeping some sort of order & discipline among them, paying them off and finally buying all their birds & furs & sending them home. It's pretty tectic with such numbers & certainly Rand
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handled them splendidly. Archbold stayed up-river where Rogers also stays overnight with the plane. They carried in 300 gallons of extra gas during their first trip this morning. According to my guess we have still something about 4,000 lbs- excluding 11 humans to be moved tomorrow, & that should be completed with about three flights, though it may run to four. Friday, June 5. The plane arrived only at 10.30. Meanwhile Rand & I had closed up the rest of the boxes. The first load took two more boys, Aie [illegible] and Kaneanaia and little mine. Next load (about 12.30) I went on with the radio, another load brought boys & cargo, a fourth load brought gasoline, & the 5th brought Rand, the police & another boy. Archbold & Rogers flew the ship. At the landing plane came down she touched on a fairly long reach but had to make a fairly sharp bend before coming down "off the step". She anchored downstream from a gravel bar which is really an extension from the shore opposite that of the camp. From the top of the bar our boys carried all materials across to the shore whence it was loaded into the collapsible dinghy
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L. 18. p. 5 and pulled across hand over hand along a rope that stretched to the shore where [illegible] Island is. The rough drawing herewith gives a general idea of the layout. Our boys worked splendidly. The plane with her pilots did very fine work (she used to take off downstream), and the entire move was a complete success. Rand said he gave away a lot of books and tobacco or gratis to the teeming multitudes left on the river banks. The flying time to the new camp was only 11 minutes; but that rough + bewildering country we crossed. It is three days on foot at least. The new station is quite attractive. In one thing it is right on the river. In another a few trees have left standing which offer partial shade. An interesting fact is that we are in a country rock of limestone now, and quantities of marine fossils are to be seen in the pebbles making up the gravel bar. But besides limestone pebbles there are quartz, hornblende granite & a much jointed Jasper-like stone as well as
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L, 18. P. 6. peller of conglomerate. I got my radio up & talked to Julistado at 5.30. Saturday June 6. This morning everybody was pretty tired, especially as the sandflies had paid us pretty constant attention during the dark hours. Sandflies here are punteries at time & they can be thick ordinary mosquito bar. Willis Nealy are now only a few miles ahead of us, though by this time they may have crossed the black river. Archibald & Copin left about 10 o'clock for Dame. They were going to look at Willis on their way out. We have been busy today fixing things. I have got a better achined, & this afternoon just not some hopes. We had dips in the river where water is cool & refreshing. Like the other camps this place is at yet teeming with stingless bees which crawl all over you. Aloud & I took a walk along the forward trail this a.m. & both fell off a tree-bridge into a muddy creek. No harm done. Can see part of Sgt Blucher from here. N.E., straight up the river the rugged crest-line, tree-covered, shows about 20 miles away.
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L. 18. P. J. Sunday June 7. Think will camp after dark. Hope to get some. Very heavy rain all night. River high and still rising. About 10 o'clock voices called out from one of the two camp entrances, and there were half a dozen of the local Papuans. They appeared very like the people we left down at Palmer Junction both facially and in the ornaments they wear. Their language seems to be the same. They brought a small piece of sweet potato & we gave them beads + 2 brass. They were all shivering in the pouring rain. So we let them shelter in the boys' Rattles. Rain stayed with us most of the day. Time mostly spent fixing up camp. In evening rigged up the cyanide trap & caught several cubic inches of micro-insects. Monday, June 8. Nothing in traps. Slight rain at night but river this morning almost down to normal. Lovely fine morning. Drying everything out thoroughly. Re-baiting this afternoon Gororo found a Terrestrial Melmye that had been caught during the day. Tuesday, June 9. A true Melmye only, same species as at Last camp. One of Rand's boys shot a pig; but as it's ears are cropped it is pretty sure to be a Willy's pig, and Stall have to pay them for it. This afternoon Rand + I took the drighy with one of the boys to row her & pulled up stream in search of the
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L. 18. P.B. mouth of the Black River. The sketch to the right shows the ground covered; we went up the west mouth of the Palmer and crossed through the eastern mouth to join the Black. Saw several gardens, one shelter when a canoe was tied below to the bank on the east arm of the Palmer. Some had pulling in places but enough gravel was uncovered to allow us to walk & have the log pull the dugout around. Picked up some very nice limestone fossils on the bars. No mammoth teeth at all at one corner of the combined Palmer-Black where it turns from E. to S. Large expanses of gravel exposed with the river winds a lagoon-like - a lovely spot (marked A on diagram). The arm of the Palmer up which we traveled is lined with gravel & sandbars first one side then the other, and growing in them quantities of wild sugar cane, an evening primrose, and a number of sedges. Going down the east arm of the Palmer towards the Black we hit a submerged boulder but no harm was done. The evening rain caught us before we could get back to camp. Wed. June 10. Not much rain last night - river low, nothing in traps. Took walks to S.E. along ridge crest. Found native shelter. No people however. This p.m. when boys were bringing airplane gas
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across to this side for storage they did not see a large pig which was feeding in a native garden just behind them and watching them with contemplative eyes. Its cropped ears betokened its village affinities as well as its familiarity. Our people on this side of course wanted to shoot it. We are building a tree ladder from which when it is finished we hope for an extended view of the mountains. It is high enough now to make your legs ache -- the steps are only three feet apart. Moved a lot of traps this afternoon. Thursday, June 11. Bram & Bend going up mine to where we saw ridges on sand bars the other day. No rain last night. Overcast this morning. Nothing in traps. Finished the observation ladder but have not been up it yet as the mountains are clouded and then is nothing to see. Rand & Bram back at 6.30 -- some nice fossils. Friday, June 12. Went up new ladder: Star Mts sees to NW, Mt's Sark + Daim due N. Bleicher to NE. - but all partly hidden by cloud. Shot a big Dobsonia last night. A Helonyx in one trap. Concentrated mass of steel traps along river side in attempt to get Helonyxs, but water came up most of day. Moved rat traps -- this from
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L. 18. P. 10 disturbed rest of small maps (Crabro) got well studied. Back in camp found visitors from Wei Miao (Rain Miao) some then 15 miles away. They used wooden knives but had otherwise the same clothes as previous people who have met us. The six of them went away later -- presumably to sleep at some village. Saturday, June 13. Slight improvement -- two terrestrial Cremops. Rain falling so large battery of steel traps set for Cremops may be able to function soon. Have be collecting all sorts of forest fruits to scatter about them. Cremops (if that's what the maker of the tracks is) shows no interest whatever in our manufactured bait. Boys got back from hunting only at 2.30 pm. Set them out again (after food) to rebait their traps. Packed up geological material. Up tree-ladder but could too thick to allow me to see much. The visiting natives (if yesterday) did not show up today. Sunday, June 14. Took Cremops at last in traps at 8 mine bank. It is a powerful rat -- was caught probably about 6 a.m. Nothing else in traps. Should drop trap-set + foot-prints, etc.. Took longish walk out along the NW patrol's track up for the north, from somewhere near the head of the north branch of Surprise Creek. The track still bears
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Lr 18, P. 14 plenty of evidence of having once had heavy traffic over it: the tree-roots are now + exposed. moreover, it runs th[rough] high ridgy country & is very steep & + well laid down. City Willis + Healy didn't find it; they came over the old track which is more rounded out. A comparatively short distance brings one onto ridgy country, apparently formed of the sandstone conglomerates which we had down at Palmer Junction. Thus the r.s. appears (?) to override the limestone. Saw no mammals. When I came back from re-baiting this afternoon I found the wei [sic] mice new back again - eight of them this time. They had brought a large pig, some sugar cane, sweet potatoes and bananas. We gave them a hatcher for the pig, & the gifts in proportion. From the tree-ladder could see 4x7. Saw, partly cloud hidden and over its right shoulder the much higher Mt Fair (our destination) also partly crested over... (Note: our boys are missing hymns every night to themselves). Monday. June 15. Added three new mammals to the camp, they had all of them before at Palmer Junction: Lager arboreal Melomys, Entallowna and the tail-less macroglossine bat. In afternoon shifted trap-line to the ridgy country along the trace of the N.W. Patrol.
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L, 18, p. 12 tonight One of the boys who had been fishing off the rocks got a twelve-pounder on his hook. It straightened out the hook & got away; but they had him half out of the water before trying to land him with a kerosene tin. As we sat in the mess tent we catch a soft distant sound like wind stirring the forest foliage. It deepens quickly to a roaring sound as the rain of the tropics (not wind) comes thrashing down on the millions of leaves and sets up a drumming on the tent roof though which only the raised voice can be heard. The shower soon passes and the sounds of individual rain drops can again be distinguished, while all about us constant dripping tells of the rapid draining away of water from the tree tops to the ground. Tuesday, June 16. Took journal Ruthes and young Murray today. She Ruthes is a new sound for the area. Eight natives have come with bananas sweet potatoes, apparently from somewhere up the Black River region. In the afternoon they returned bringing a large pig for which they were paid a hatchet. We are certainly getting lots of porks. Wednesday, June 17. Heavy rain in evening but river not very high, though it may have been up and down.
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L. 18. P. 13. during the night. Hope for view of the mountains today. Plane due to make first parachute delivery to Willie tomorrow at Blucher. Weather from 5th exceptionally cloudy. Talked to Anhold 5.30pm. No news. Thursday, June 18. Weather rather hazy & drizzly for plane's flight. Two people say they have heard it (10.30), and it may now be of inside looking over the mountain situation. This morning a young birdieart (Echinoptera) in traps and another friend living Melmys. Jim nature's just thought in a crowsway. Plane just arrived 10.50. Deliveries successfully made. Willie + Healy and all seemed to be in good shape. Closing this letter now to send out by plane.
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L. 19. P. I. Thursday, June 18. The plane has just left (2 p.m.). She completed her first air delivery with complete success as I said in letter #17. Also the first nature has brought in the first specimen — a snake. So in the next few weeks we may get quite a lot of material. Russell was telling us some of the tales their "aeroplane toy" has been telling around Dane: of the marvellous things they had found in the interior, tanks and motor cars, and great open spaces populated by thousands of pigs which when the plane dived at them scattered in in all directions. Spent nearly an hour up the tree-ladder this evening. Was rewarded by getting a view of the mountains beyond the Strickland, showing pale blue-gray above the eastern end of Blücher. Mt Sarek eventually came out and I saw most of its crest line. The cargo delivered by plane, by the way, were 900 lbs making 5 loads, two of which were parachute loads, the other rice (small bags enclosed in big loose bags); and the time occupied in circling and throwing the stuff out of the plane was 14 minutes. Friday, June 19. Last evening entirely clear & starlit. This morning back to fog and rain. Traps m.g. today. Went out along V.S. trail. Got off quick shot at currawong as it slipped through the forest like a giant red-and-blue-necked chicken. I didn't hit it home as it glided behind a great tree-trunk and never reappeared. Bumped into another damned warpi' nest and in knocking the creatures, if not broken frame of my plane... Have had to repair that with piece & wire. The local people have brought in a few birds this morning. Hope to have some mammals from them also during
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L. 19, P. 2 the next few days. In afternoon went out to locate new trap sites. Saturday, June 20. Nothing in traps. Set 18 steel traps in place located yesterday afternoon. Found tracks of large beaverfoot on shore, which hope to catch sooner or later. Set 17 more traps for a small mammal (probably the bear animal Melomys of this camp) which sometimes come down & walks about on river mud. Going out "jacking" tonight - suppose it will rain with hail. Got exactly nothing. Walked out along the S. trail for about 2 miles, sitting to my dinner at 6.45's. Waited till 7.15 for total darkness, and then switched on light & started back, sitting in at 8.15'. A slight drizzle developed but not wet enough to be troublesome. While waiting out there in the forest in the deepening dusk kept trying to catch some sounds of quadruped life - not a thing. A few pigeons or the birds sounding their p-o-t-hed calls! The story whirring beat of hornbills' wraps as they flew by overhead. And with darkening frogs and crickets starting up. That was all. Coming back I saw many little glittering diamonds on tops and trees which I knew were reflections from the eyes of spiders. Sunday, June 21. A Rattus and a terrestrial Melomys, the former probably allied to B. morder. Nothing in steel traps. In P.m. found traces of Uromys around a tiny pool in creek bed where some little fish had been killed by the fat men and the shrinkage gusts. Set traps thus. Uromys must go about during the day time but so far nobody has set eyes on one. We had about a dozen natives in camp today; they brought a cassowary, a few birds, and some sweet potatoes. The plan is coming in again tomorrow, or
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L.19.P3. Julestelt said by radio this morning. They think they are a day ahead of time and well may not be ready for them. Monday, June 22. We lay an aerial Melmups in a still trap set made in the dry creek bed baited with fish. No other mammals. Heavy rain last night between 12 and 3. Plane coming in this a.m. Got good look at mountains this morning from our ladder look out, but rising mist soon covered them up. Int. rain clearly visible over ridge shoulder of Mt Sare. This is the picture from up the ladder! [Sketch with labels: Strom MT?, Mt Sore, Mt Fairin, The Palmu force comes out about here, Blucher Point, Palmer River, Strickland Mountains, Forest, ground here] NW N NE E For the first time the local natura brought in some mammals this afternoon: a bat (Nyctimere), a Melmups and a young Phalanger. The plane did not come after all. They discovered at the last moment that tomorrow was the day set, so tomorrow they will come instead. Julestelt told me tonight that they have a new radio receiver in the plane. Tuesday, June 23. Plane is supposed to be on way. No specimens in traps. Starting a garden: the soil very loose, humus filled and matted with roots. But at noon learned from Dave that the plane had found the mountains clouded in and had just returned. A bat (Nyctimere) shortly one of Rand's boys. Another Nyctimere caught by bells this afternoon.
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{ "text": "L. 19. P.4\nWednesday, Time out. Yesterday p.m. one of our police men got a\nshot at a crocodile. They must be very rare up here.\nMagnificent view of mountains: Saw steep escarp at\nbottom end of Sare (sacup on fly forge; almost whole\nof Dap Range; Strickland Rcp with SE side\nCrystal gorge; east part of Victor Emmanuel Range.\ncrystal gorge.\nSare\nFerris\nVictor\nEmmanuel\nBlucher\nStuckland\nThe above is very simple but shows their relationships\nto one another.\nNote: Eyes of Trachygonia lat # 2465 are luminous.\n\n\n\nR. Flynn\n\n\n\n\n\nR. Palmer\n\n1st minutes flying time\nCamp \"5 mi. below Palmer Junction\"\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n [TRANSCRIPTION_TRUNCATED_DUE_TO_LOOP]
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L. 19. P. 5. The sketch map on previous page represents an attempt to map what I have seen from the tree-tops in consonance with information previously obtained. This afternoon took new trail cut by my try Sororo few days ago. It leads south parallel with the track (ple NW Patrol) but more to the west, and it steps head ridges with swampy tips covered with more-grown- vegetation. The large creek at the ridge runs one limestone and ten- cut into it to a depth of a couple of-yards. More further north run m- grevel. The large creek in the SW Patrol track is down to the limestone. Just before reaching the area I follow timber the track (passes some very interesting swamp forest. I intend putting traps in there again. Thursday June 25. My trap caught a mole Urnups. In another trap a bandicoot had been caught but all except the hind foot had been eaten dry a pig. The hind foot measures 55 mm. 3. u. The Urnups with medilen thin tubercle carrying two vibrissae. The plane is on the way. 9.30 a.m. Heard her go by. Intus invisible from here. Clouds drifting form east to west of SE to NW. 9.45-Plane came in. Reported mountain's clouded and invisible. Staying over night to try again in p.m. and once again next morning very early. Rain came on at 5.15 pm. Weather bad. Hope- for better luck tomorrow. Plan now to drop note to Millie to come out with sufficient carriers to take me and radio in to Mt. Makerin so that I can inform them at Dame as to the local weather. If they can make delivery tomorrow (July 20) and his men ought to get here about Tuesday (June 30) and we should then leave on Thursday end put there late Sunday (July 4th).
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By that arrangement we can let Ryan and Archbold know the mountain weather and they can act accordingly. So as things stand our local weather is of little value in telling tem about the mountains weather. Friday June 26 Cloudy morning and still no sign of the hills. Aeroplane still here Champion came along with plane as guest passenger. Nothing in traps. Crocodile (6 feet ?) seen swimming in rivers. In afternoon still cloudy and no flight attempted. Stars out tonight however, so perhaps tomorrow will be all right. Saturday June 27. Only a little rain locally but must have been quantities in the hills for river very high. Plane going to have a try to make delivery this morning. (9.05- Plane took off: 9.55 back again. 10.30 I flew Jim with them to put a look at my new course & camp. Scenery magnificent but will describe in next letter.
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Sat. June 27th. The flight made today which I referred to in my last letter was very interesting. The clouds were low and we flew just against the celling towards the foothills. Palmer small hills with very high south faces project from certain blucher towards the Black River. As we flew on up the winding Palmer towards the hills the foothills of Sare and Blucher filled the whole northern vision. We edged over to the east a trifle and roundly a spur of Sare made out the narrow, slit-like gorge of the Palmer ahead of us. It looked somewhat like this: cloud. We flew in along the top of the gorge towards the sun-lit-ed interior valley passing on our right the clearing on the top of Blucher formerly occupied by willis. The arable printed int Rasik was passed on my left, and the N - shaped int Mabion ahead and to the left. The clearing lay on the N or NE side of Mabion. The whole interior valley is indescribably steep and rough, and all forested. Two parachutes and three rice loads were set down in the clearing. Could see willis and a few boys standing there but not Keely who was probably exploring trail. Coming out was easy. The great Sare scar (a landslide on the limestone face) showed plainly left right, and we could look out under the clouds to see the plains. All the way out we flew above the gorge which was snow brightly
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L. 20. P. 2 lighted by the sun, much of its interior was sheer white limestone. Outside I drew the pen for the first time. It seems to rise somewhere about middle Bliicher and this side of the steep faced hills while I mentioned a bit earlier. The sketch maps give my idea of the general lay-out. Malin Bliucher Sant Palmer. Black? Lucy Tungum Melvin The Palmer River had all its gravel bars exposed and dry, so the high water we are experiencing must fall come from the Black River. Spent the afternoon going over equipment, setting what to take in and what to leave here. At 5.30 Dene informed us that the plane had returned at 4 o'clock. So that's that. Rain once more tonight but very few insects at the light. Sunday, June 28. Overcast. One Melmys in traps. Shall be glad to move up to Malvin; perhaps collecting may be better there. In traps 3 Melmys, and later the local people brought two more and a Nyctomene. The seeds in the garden are nearly all up. We have radish (2 kinds) turnip, chinche cabbage, pumpkins and turnels.
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L. 20, P. 3. There are now about 30 local natives who occasionally bring a bird, cat or other creature. A number of them have put up a shelter across the river, so it looks as though they intended staying a while. They speak the same language as those we had with us at Palmer Junction. We have now a bit of their vocabulary, and Champion Harris some years ago got quite a lot of it. Today they brought sugar cane tops which our boys promptly planted in the clearing. Some are dark-leaved, others remarkably pale. They have secured canoes on the river & paddle them with the usual primitive paddles - a cleft stick with a bit of bark secured in the cleft. Monday, June 29. Fine rain. River high. In traps a fourth sp. J. Kelage - belly cut up by traps. Long tail dark above below. Color brown, under parts white to roots of hairs. A non-brachy adult female. Skull with short antumn - This may be M. gracilis. A bad day: Rain most today. Went out along new trail described June 14. Found that my boys have pretty lengthened it. In afternoon took walks along old S. Trail. Locals brought in some sugarcane and bananas and a Nyetimere. Tuesday, June 30. Rain at night. Big flood in river this morning (both Palmer & Block must be down). Heard it at 1 a.m. It is only 6 feet below camp level + just even with the little native house on the other side. The water goes rushing past us every now & then a story up-well breaks on the now deeply submerged line tree. This high water will make things inconvenient for the party coming out. By 10 o'clock the river had sunk about a foot, all the rocks up in the woods are locked up with 8 or 10
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L. 20, P. 4. feet of water and the top had to cut a long round - elvot track in order to reach the top like Bith Dave and Pat Morey tell me they are having unseemable weather with lots of rains. The daily 24-hour temperature (max. + min.) ranges from 86° to 75°, practically the same as in the Palmer Junction camp. This afternoon patches of blue sky & sunshine; but the mountains remain invisible. The rain level is now down 8 feet from the high. This camp has been only a moderately good one for me. It has given me two or three species of mammals that I did not have from Palmer. But I expect they were there (even perhaps the fourth species of Melomp). The worst pest here is the punkies (sandflies) which can go through mosquito bar. Leeches are moderately common but not too bad. House flies are quite a nuisance; stinging bees, as they usually do after a few days, have now quite disappeared. I'm really sorry for Bress & Rand who will probably have to spend the best part of a month here yet. Wednesday, July 10th. Another month and half the year gone. Weather light rain most of night; this morning mist and drizzle. The run up a little. I have this morning designed a short cape of wildcloth with 2 holes in the middle to put the head through - one for each of my 2 dogs and one for myself. At present they cause considerable mirth but I fancy they will be appreciated in the hills, when trap-lines I have to be run too cold rainy mornings. They are something after the style of S. American pindos, but quite short. Sunrise at 11.30 but hills still dark. The weather continued to clear however and by evening the mountains were all out and in fact bright star light. I think this marks a change for the better in the weather. At 7pm just after day the people from Pat
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L. 20. P. 5. [illegible] arrived. They consist of the police sergeant and one policeman and 18 carriers. Though muddy from travel they did not appear very tired. They look to be in fine condition. Blue I took them for strangers and bit one of them. From Willis's letter which they brought I expect to need five days to get in to the mountain base. The packers apparently came out in three but they traveled light. I expect to go only a couple of hours tomorrow and get across the Black River . After that it is trail - and mostly bad trail. Thursday, July 2. Dusty. But the mist-drip did not commence to fall until 5 o'clock. It ought to clear up speedily.
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L.21. P.I. Thursday, July 2. Had to stop last letter very abruptly - the plane was leaving. Dry for back to Dana about 5.15. The new lot of natives came to visit us today. Dry for a bit to the north of the Block R. and were slightly different ornaments from those in which the local people dress. Tomorrow morning we pull out. The plane delivered yet another 1500 lbs of provisions to the new camp west of Mt. Malion. Heard the planes radio as far as the Aramca Reirs. We got a Poyomys (2 small embryos; mammary formula 1-2=6), a terrestrial Didelomys from our traps and a Ceromys from the locals. Friday, July 3. We woke up to find heavy rain falling and the river once more high. Both Dana and Port Moresby report bad weather. There'll be no getting away today. Slight improvement in the afternoon but the river has not yet commenced to go down yet. Wind S.W. 5 o'clock weather clearing quickly. Probably get away tomorrow. Saturday, July 4th. Quite the date to be starting out on a journey! Had last talk with Dana. Now packed up radio. We got away at 9.15; passed the big gravel bar below the Palmer-Blockley island at 10.30, the junction of the main branch of the Palmer with the Block at noon, and reached the place for crossing the Block at 12.30. The rafting was quite easy but a bit slow, however we were all on the other side by 2 o'clock, and a steep slippery climb brought us to a camp (an old site of the N.W Patrol). My aneroid read 100 meters at the river and 150 meters on the hill-top. The climb felt like that too. The trail as far as the crossing follows the river closely - the South side of the Block is very up & down, the "up" being the emergence of our last camp, the "downs" muddy swamps overlaying limestone or simply deep ravines. It has been a gloriously fine day - propitious for the
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outset of a very interesting trip. Like all newly occupied camps sile, this one is full of stinging bees and I have noticed some examples of the biting fly STOMOXYS which so torments does down others. A fair sprinkling of mosquitoes is here also. The ridge line north of the blocks are also formed of silty conglomerates. They are high and steep-sided. Here is an old Vocceums Oil tin here (Also seen by Willis and Healy) which must be a hang-over from the NW Patrol. It shows how long 15-gallon cans can last in tropical rain - forest. July 5-Sunday. A good night, only just one rain. But idios restless there were mosquitoes or flies or something around gave instructions for an early start the boys cook to go to work on their food at 5:30 my boy (Renomore is cooking for me) at 6 o'clock. It has been another good day and what traveling we do, and nearly 12 miles by the map taking it "as the crow flies". We moved out from Black River camp just at 7:30. First a series of ridges followed by quite a bit of mucky low ground but the poles avoided a bad swamp mentioned in Willis's letter by going east of it. I was a bit devastated to find the elephant cutter had entirely new trail along a ridge. That makes proper for slow for the packers who still must carry all loads. I even they shot a pig which can proved by its wet ears to be a village pig. I would not allow them to take it because if I did they would shoot all the village pigs. Presently we heard much confused shouting ahead which came from a village ahead of us and so the Palmer Next valley, we deserted (it is one house or trip of poles) when Willis went though about 12 men stood up on the trip shortly "Sambere" (friend) and there was much hand shaking native fashion, which consists of interlocking
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the knuckles of the fingers & pulling them L 21. P.S. apart with a snap. There were women & children up in the house but they were tightly barricaded in and we near caught a glimpse of them. As we came up, the hill a pig was butchered, and one of them exhibited about 10 inches of bloody arm-head. The killing for a pig is a gesture of hospitality. In the midst of an immense amount of gobbling I offered them some knife (and some food) if they would bring the pigs along to Healy's camps - They agreed. On top of the next ridge I found one of Willis's camps. And when we were half an hour or so further I realized that the 'Healy's camp' we then came to was not the objective at all. There was nothing to do (11 am) but halt, cut up the pig, issue some rice & have a feed. My boys needed counted it. But I stipulated that we move on afterwards. We presented the village with some rice. I forgot to say that the two men who left our group yesterday with us turned up at their village (They live up the Black Arrowhead), and came on with the rest. They had been hunting birds for us for some time. But the present lot of men had visited us once too, well after 'pigging'. All but those two turned back. They came on wanting to carry, and they are there in camp all want to go or tomorrows. I'll probably give them some unimportant loads to help the boys, think they may depart in the night with the family Jewels. To get back to the wall. We soon needed a parting of the ways & the sergeant assuring me that the other was better than that taken by
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L.21. P.4 Wills & Healy, I thought I'd take a chance. It probably may have been better, and I suspect it was quite a bit shorter. The beginning was pretty low swampy, but at length it worked out to dry ground & up onto a ridge where the Wills/Healy track rejoined it. A moment later we were once more looking at the Paluma about 100 feet below. At that place there seems (thru the foliage) to be a junction of two streams one with green water the other clear or bluish. But then we got out below--we were so shut in by flood plain vegetation we could see nuthing. We walked for [illegible] mile along beach which reaches round the entire field from E-wt NS at the foot of the Donaldson range. And a few hundred yards farther climbed the hill to Healy's camp. I'm very pleased with the day's work that the two Kiwi boys who carry the majority of the radio loads (110 lbs) were pretty tired. Our two locals suddenly got scared of something about 5 o'clock & decided to go home. We had a shown at 5 but thick blueitus is quite clear, it's rugged parts bearing NE, Save r the jags are both ascended. I believe I saw glimpses of the peak Stuckless Tks. due E. too. All this last from Healy's look-out clearing below campo. Had a glorious dip in the mire. The barometer (at 6.30 pm) reads - 120 m. Zero meters is set at 74.5 Monday July 6. Morning barometer (6.20 am) 120 mm. Light rain all night. Saw visible NW from here, but forested turned considerably--very precipitous! The Stuckless hills (that must have been cloud last night). Rain up a little.
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L-21. P. S. I omitted to say that both the pups of yesterday were paid for with knives, and the sweet potatoes with tobacco. The same conglomeratic rock forms all the high ridges formed during yesterday's travel, and we are on it here too. It looks to me as though the east-west course of the Palms and Sen marked a fault. The limestone is of course under this present ridge and down at the Palms has been fairly deeply cut by the river. Put out no traps last night or the night before but camped nothing in them. Evening. - I well, what a day this has been! First of all everything I said yesterday must be modified because we were not at the 610 mile corner at all. We got away at 8.30 after the rainy night. Much of the road followed the river closely and consequently was (and is) probably subject to floods. About 11.30 we came out of the shingle once more for a while and found ourselves dry wet (of all things), but gradually wore around to north again. We kept getting glimpses of not Donaldson as we got to peer out of the first clear suitable place on the river. Just about then passed a hut house (new) but no people were to be seen. House on low hill. Quite suddenly, we reached a reef of limestone with strikes about NW-SE which we climbed over in a couple of minutes and a quarter. Plan four later reached the actual 610 mile mark where the Palms makes a right angle bend from E-W to N-S. Across the river is a high wall of limestone which turns Northeasterly and is obviously a continuation of the reef just mentioned. We stopped for a short spell on the corner, then turned due east and started upstream once more. On our right a sheer wall of rock a hundred feet high; down immediately left the river a score of feet below the trail; and the trail itself climbing about out the forest-
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-eled rock debris. It was rough going all night, but it had one redeeming feature: it was practically straight. In consequence of that we got to the mouth of the Sew at 3.15. It was rather horrifying to have to leave that limpid stream and climb about 300 feet to Willis's camp on the tip-top of the hill. From that was reached in 15 minutes. As we came up towards the Sew I noticed in the little stream crossed for time to time pebbles of rounded sandstone, rounded quartzite etc., obviously remnants of the same old conglomerate I have repeatedly recorded. Now I find this ridge capped with it. Also the ridge falls flat once towards the south. My interpretation is that this range (which turns the Palmsi westwards) was up-faulted and that at this end the cap of conglomerate which lay over the limestone has not been completely eroded away. We may even find traces of it on the approach slopes of blücher. Just on top of the hill we came through a brush garden and a brush house, but all deserted (temporarily at least). There are mosquitoes here, but thank goodness no stingers here. I suppose the sand flies will be thick this. Barometer (at 5.30 pm) 210 meters. Tuesday, July 7th: I didn't miss last night that for a scene of peace looks along the trail the great white landslide of Blücher can be seen. It bears 20° east of N. (approx.). Barometric reading (6.30 am) 180 mts. A good night with only one shower. Clear today. No mosquitoes were out in force as I feared. We got away at 8.30 + passed Healy's camp at 9.30, his route here high on ridge + not much conglomerate. Down to Sew 9.45 and then up its left bank (some pretty rough too to the ford at 10.45. It was only knee-deep. Followed sewer brook (Barometer crossing 120 m.)
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northwards, a left it to climb onto bordering ridges to east, (11.15am) when Healy's camp followed up ridge - noisy torrent on our right which is probably the north branch of the Len. Steady climbing till 12.15, then very much steeper and rougher. Hard going for the boys carrying the 110-lb motor generator - at length reached Willes's camp at 2 o'clock. Some trees have been cut to give view out over lowlands just a bit west of S., but nothing else visible. Willes gives the altitude in his letter as 460 metres but I get just 520 (4 min.). We are shut in on 3 sides by forest which grows among the much decomposed limestone. There seem to be almost no stag beetles, but instead a number of active & persistent tarantulas. 6.15 pm. Sky turns on the' the weather were clearing for the worse. All misted in - and rain threatening. I'm thankful to be crossed the Len, for it will surely rise tonight. Wed. July 8. The rain did not last long, with last half of the night was drier more light. Misty this morning, the Barometer 500 metres. Traps caught 3 small rodents; perhaps I think but not sure. They are in forms. On the road by 8.30. At first kept a little below 500 metre level but eventually dipped sharply to Healy's Camp in sills which reached at 11.15. Entire course over limestone & completed forest in - course W. From Camp (after 18 min spell) followed up brook, then climbed high ridge on W. side. That ridge is capped with our old friend the conglomerate, and yesterday on the way up from the Len I noticed a little of it at 400 m. From the crest of ridge (500 m.) the big Blister Limestone could be seen though the forest seems being 80° E of N. at noon. Can turned and went after quickly found ourselves on Pahr drainage (instead of Len) where we crossed the fault shortly before the junction of conglomerate
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L 21. P. 8. was at 470m. The plane of junction seemed to dip slightly SW. On way up to conglomerate ridge for N's camp_ found exposure of what I thought was hard slate dipping almost 30° NE and with NW-SE strike. It was certainly finely laminated but may just possibly have been limestone. On many creek beds there seemed limestone, very recent and deposited in north of living trees. The boys call it "cement", not rightly. It certainly looks like wet concrete. The present camp (6 bags rice camp) was reached at 2.15°. We passed another of Healy's places at 1.30_ but pressed on. We are on a little ridge but still so hemmed in by forest as to be unable to make out much of anything. I fancy the tip of Blücher lies about NNE of us. There is a big mass to the SW and of almost our altitude which must the toe of the Saré-Donaldson massif which deflects the Palmer (below its page) so far eastward to make junction with the bar. The boys have been splendid. In the first time (due to consumption of foods) I have been able to put down only Ele healthy ration load. I think it needed care first. I had a sample of the six bags of rice left here by Wilkins opened. One was good; the other slightly mouldy. The barometer at 4 pm reads 510 meters. Since Healy the above there been out to look around again_ I think the mass to SW is still Blücher. Can faintly make out Saré fortville due W. and a mist that is probably hanging over Palmer page. The spear we are encamped on must E. and W. Alt. 6 pm. 500m. Have heard flying from all sorts: last night and at north bank of Black River (not right out). There is no doubt of the Saré due W. It shows only the end near towners and its northern face is nearly perpendicular! Thus, Fly.9. Heavy rains during night from 9 o'clock till 4 am. Don't know how we'll put along with crossing the Palmer. The place is full of the sound of rushing water. Barometer 6.30, 500m.
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L.21. P.9. One more hectic day. On the road by 8.30. A rotten trail with much all side-hill work. We must have crossed hundreds of steep walled ridges alternating with hundreds of rushing brooks. The general trend known was downwards and we at length came out on the Palmer (by the Limba people called Swoep) at 12.00. On the way across from the previous camp I twice more saw old slate (or shale?) exposed in in brook beds - much jointed but apparently level bedded (at those spots). At 10 o'clock got a glimpse of Mt. Kariki nearly due west. We neared the Palmer a short distance above the gorge, and crossed it a mile below the mouth of the Narin River... The local formation is striking: at least 50 feet and probably more of soft dark grey slate considerably deformed & jointed, and their beds tilted to dip about 30° (I'm forgotten the strike). They at once made me think of them being old lake bottom, especially in connection with the Palmer gorge. They are probably young... Mt. Kariki and Melrin and part of Bleicher were visible but their tops were cloudy. The plane could have come in easily however. We crossed the Palmer at the mouth of the Narin by felling a tree to a gravel bar in the middle and wading the rest (otherwise we would have had a long, roundabout road to follow), and the sergeant cut new trail NW up towards Drelim, with the object of striking the trail from the east camp to the new west camp. He did a good job too. From 190 meters at the crossing we worked gently up to 300 where we found thyme in huge quantities - I old garden. At length we struck a bushmen's track that led steeply up to a village that is perched like a hawk's nest on the tip of a spire I Drelim. There we were greeted by cries of "Seno! Seno!" (friend) by a little man dressed in little else than a tremendously long, curly poud who danced around in a transport of excitement. The village was built, as I said, on the very tip of the spire and consisted of about 4 houses. There were 8 or 10 men & some boys & doubtless women but we did not see them... We moved out westward for a quarter of a mile & made camp where Willie had had a baggage relay station. Right at the beginning of the climb I found the hard slate
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L.21. P.10 and about 300 metres (I think) limestone. There was also a little conglomerate. Down up top got five men of Blucher & Karik. The original Blücher delivery station was pointed out to me by the sergeant. (Our new friends (Seno) fairly flooded me with Taro. So much so that I had to sign to them to bring them in to the new camps tomorrow. [Hint: that order is conveyed] I'll leave to your imaginations.) I'm pretty sure that we can use the food, but I don't want my boys to have to carry it. It has been a big day - find 500 meters down to 190 and up once more to 500 (which is the reading at 7.15 pm.). And I think the shot out has taken off many a mile. The rain started early tonight, about 5.30. Well we should reach linkia fairly soon tomorrow, and then let's hope the radio works efficiently. I have just taken the approximate bearing of Mt. Melbin and find that we are just about S.S.E., it which makes our position even better. Just below camp a landslide has at some time swept down - the debris is all limestone. Melbin itself towers above us for another couple of thousand feet. My boys appear entirely happy over in their tent - fly - as least they are singing away lustily. They know too that tomorrow is the last day and it short me too. Friday, July 10. Heavy rain till midnight. Misty but clearing this a.m. Paracuta 480 m. Blücher bears just S.E. from this camp. The villagers came on brought me half a boiled Taro. They call Mt. Blücher 'Die'; the names Melbin and Karik stand; S.D.E is pronounced 'Sall.' I got old Champion's linkia vocabulary tried it on them. Most of it works... Rode from this camp bears S.S.E. Left 8.45, arrived camps 10.45. The track led up through extensive Taro gardens and along the south side of Melbin. A bit later it began to climb steeply and the end of the second hour saw us at the big clearing which willis is still enlarging (note that at least I have a new sheet of carbon paper and can go back again to printed paper). Drank 3 cups of cocoa & some Senos - while we
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L. 21. P. 11. scrapped yarns. Then came a very welcome level, after which we turned our attention to the radio. Ran a nearly vertical aerial, and found reception good. But it took the next part of four hours to get the skeleton started. My village friends squatted all around the clearing on fallen logs. Still Willie paid them off with salt which they are crazy to get. The cry for salt is you like the palm of your hand. They all departed about one o'clock. There were some others among them who we understood had come over from Boluip Village to the west. The trail from Ismail to village to the present camp (called Kori-sala) has at least four tracks running up to the S. and one of them is said to go to Mt Karika. About 200 yards to the new camp is on a ridge, the forest around in still high enough to shut out a lot of the view, and one only outlook is to the South and West. Ridge covers all other views. From Camp Ismail (close against us) bears SE; Karika S by W.; and the west end of Sale SW and the wetland due W.; the Palmers post bears about 5 by E. Got two signals from California at 6 o'clock & turned in early. A clear starlight night, & the moon came up at midnight. Saturday July 11. Bad news today: the plane fell 100 feet at Port Moresby and sank. No body hurt according to Moreby. The new plan now is for a New Guinea Airways' plane to fly another 1500 lbs of food to us here and for us to collect for a while, then pull out for Black River. What a calamity for Archbold! Meanwhile the Traira is started one again and coming up with three months provisions on board. Archbold will come with her, bringing Fairbairn's launch the "Weroi" to connect between the upper limit reached by the "Traira" and either Black R. camp or Palmers Junction camp (which ever we reach). Rand & Brass of course know nothing. I see this, & I wonder whether the N.G.A. plane will drop them any notice. Anyhow this event marks the end of the Mt. Karika part of the expedition & whether we do anything else depends on Archbold. Sunday July 12. Unable get through to Archbold at 5:30 last night because of static. This morning motor would not start until 8 ok. So missed him again. Have schedule with Moreby at 11 a.m. which helps to keep the tem written
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L.21, P. 12 a message to the effect that we move out of Loe Thursday morning commencing to relay Ford over to Blucher where I hope to pick up a few more mammals. We are also afraid that with the rivers mostly low the plane will probably not be able to get up beyond Palmer Junction camp (our original landing place), even if she can go so far. Consequently we shall have to re-fit down to meet her. One species in traps last night - a Pelmoy, opposite the same as that at Black River. A decided scarcity of birds here. Have trap collecting insects, but can't use my light trap because I scarcely get gasoline while I need for my radio. The day once more quite good though some rain in night, and the Palmer jags clouded over below us. Baro too is quite correct. Barometer (9 a.m.) 780 m. The local name of the Loe is Wei Tungong; Surprise Creek is Wei Tam Angie; Unknown river (the bounds surprise creek) Wei Tamar. Got through to V.G (Port) at 11 a.m about seven. Then made contact with Loe (the Guinea Airways station). They are to get weather from me tomorrow at 5.30 a.m. & if all well one of their planes will bring us in 12 or lbs rice. Have been mapping this p.m. Weather misty & turning now to rain, hope it will clear before morning however. The map on the page following is based on the combined observations of Healy, Willis and myself. The ships are not corrected for magnetic deviations. Weather poor from half to one; afraid raining still setting in. Monday July 13. Heavy rain all night; rivers full; fog near today. Up at 4.30 to get printer started & in hope for Loe contact. Strong Morse stills interfered until 6 o'clock after which we got through without trouble. Flight just forced on account of bad weather, will call Loe again tomorrow. In touch Archibald 7.30; Port Moreaby 8 a.m & 11.15 a.m. Sent article of situation & alternatives if I please unable get in on Wednesday at latest.
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R. Archbold. 2910 2980 SARE 2630 Landslide Klein Sale Fild 750 meters R. Narin C C Mabison Mabon Hill Village R. Turingam Blucher air field Karik B Loop Camp 180m. BLUCHER Palmer Gorge 500 m. Willis Log camp. cold Healy Camp c C A Donaldson Palmer R. Len R. Healy Camp L. 21. P. 3.
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"mile = 1 met 4'' 18'' 67 miles 1 = 4 miles 36'' = 67 miles. 12'' = 22.5 m. 33 1/2 m = 1/2° = 8 3/8'' 1 = 16 3/4 4 (33 1/2 / 8 3/8) Willis's S. Sen Camp 210 m. (6.25 p.m.) 180 m (6.30 a.m.) Low ford. 120 m (10 a.m.) S. Blacker Camp { 5.90 m (5 p.m.) { 5.00 m (6.30 a.m.) Gully Camp. 350 m (11.15 a.m.) Ridge Crest went Gully Camp 500 m (noon) Dirt Stream to Palmos. 470 m (12.30) 6 days Camps. { 5.10 m (4 p.m.) { 500 m (6 p.m.) { 500 m (6.30 a.m.) 9 months Korin 190 m (noon). Beginning steep slope on way up to Village Village { 500 m (7.15 p.m.) { 480 m (6.30 a.m.) Kori Sau (was Medrin) { 780 m (9 a.m.) { 810 m (3 p.m.) Healy's S. Sen Camp 190 m (6 p.m.) L 21 - P 14
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L. 21. P. 14. Opened a certain tin of canned orange-peel at lunch while was duly appreciated a note of thanks offered to manufacturer present! This brings news was interesting - four stations; Port Hardy, Darn, Lae and ourselves working together. Dick has had trouble with his receiver at Darn. But anyhow we received his telegraphed message via Port answering our "two alternatives" The plane, weather permitting will come via Mt Hagen air field, as if another drop were here will drop it to send at Black R. Tuesday, July 14. Started sending to Lae at 5.30, 6.00, 6.30 Got OK at 6.30 but plane had just taken off. Just orange ain't cutting logs in rapto to see to re-send to Rogers in plane. Talked to Port at 8.10. Weather at Moresby said to be improving. Even here it looks a shade better. Plane will take a little more than storms to get here (or to Black), and I don't whether it will be clear enough to deliver to Prebin. In such case we must look for the nice to go to the Black. Have broadcasted to Rogers twice already & go on again in 5 minutes. Not much for lift, though. Last night the storm needed a pitch - high wind and torrents of rain - so every stream is full. I only hope the Palmers has not overflowed the camp at Black River. Nothing in traps. Well. The plane came outland at 10.10 and stayed for 20 minutes trying to find a way down to us. I talked to Rogus but of course don't get know whether he heard me. She has now (10.45) probably gone on to Black Paris to stay to deliver there. The weather which was opening up a little has again closed down on us. We learned that she put back to Lae (the plane is a tri-motored Ford) at 2.15. About 5 o'clock to our with amazement we saw two men with a boy (all blacks) coming up the clearing with Dick
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socks on their locks, It turned out L. 21. P. 15 that Rogers unable to get down to the west mission field had dropped 12 days rations and 2 gallons of gas (for radio) at the east field. Rain was once more pouring down and anyway it is nearly four days by road to get around there, so nothing could be done today except reward the three lunkies & let them sleep for the night in the trip tent-fly. We still did not know what had happened at Black River. Because three of our Corps feet are m. g. they would have to be carried out (6 men to each) and that leaves insufficient parties to carry the necessary amount of food. It is therefore [illegible] to make two relays of the journey. Early + 27 soon taking the radio (8 days to carry) and all the extra equipment and food we can manage. We then send the boys in again (taking food from Black River) to get Willis and the stretcher cases whom it is hoped will by then be on their feet again. Meanwhile everybody at Black turns to & builds rafts. The Inaire leaves tomorrow (not two days ago as was originally promised) will meanwhile pick up Archbold + a radio @ Dane and come up the Fly River to meet us. Wed. July 15. The storm is blowing out. Rain was moderately heavy till midnight, then only drizzle. And this morning the weather looked good + the skies were falling. I learned from VIA (Pat) that the Ford was unable to put any message into Rond's camp at the Black. So they are still ignorant of the misfortune to the plane, & can learn nothing till we get out there in 5 or 6 days time.
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L. 21, P. 16. we sent a party around to east melton to search for rice & gas. And almost now four more locals came in carrying rice. Some rice had been spoiled by last night's rain, but some must have been picked up and put under cover, for it was perfectly dry. For "wild" brushmen there looks a how very considerable savory. Both welles & Healy say they have never come across Papuanos like them. Needless to say they were well paid. Barometer (3 pm) 8 10 meters. We have been sorting over equipment, choosing what may be discarded in emergency & selected what we hope to bring out. It is not easy. I have left collecting job by the board - too busy with radio work & planning our movements. Anyway we are on the "conglomerate" which seems no more productive of mammals than elsewhere. But my half-formed plan to put another night or two of trapping at south Bucker camp on the limestone tract now be discarded. Welles is keeping one my traps with him in case anything turns up in the way of mammals or birds. Have taken a scattering of insects too. But so far as such stations for this one must be labeled "wash-out". 4.15 pm. A quite astonishing thing! A long file of our boys and villagers came divided up the clearing stream from east station. They had found eight more bags of rice and one of the gallons of gasoline, the latter having a small parachute attached. So the plane must have thrown out more rice than they could remember. Now, so far as we know, only the accent yellow if gas is missing. Of the rice about half has been
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ruined by rain, but the other half put 6.21. P. 17 us in a much stronger position than formerly. We don't quite understand a radio in which only "3 bags were dropped" since we have apparently 14 already. The bags too are 50-60 lbs - Willis says we have now recovered nearly 600 lbs of rice in good condition. Thursday, July 16th - What a day! Up at 5.30 getting ready to go. Final communication with Port Moresby at 6.30 a.m. We had a fair night with little rain and we left camp at 7.50. Had to make a few changes in the carriers around at Iralion village where we stopped to give everyone a spell, and to fix Healy and stock some bearings and also a number of photographs. Left Iralion village at 11.10 down the cliffy track, which I had climbed with my squad of radio packers only 6 days earlier, down through the abandoned gardens to the Luap (Palmer) River, which became because of the noise it was making we feared might be too deep to cross. After the past week's bad weather we had fort reason to suspect it. The river was at least a foot higher than it was when I forded it, and the place where I had crossed proved impractical. We sought over the river at a relatively quiet spot and we started cutting track upstream in search of some place where a_ crossing might be tried. When a number of boulders showed we felled a great tree on our side. Its branches locked any the stones + held. That carried us a third of the way. Next the boys went right deep in the swift current built out an sort of trestle bridge for another 15' feet beyond the tree. Indudi (Willis's boy) next managed to cross with an_ using a pole to hold down against the current, and fell another huge tree from the other side. There yet remained about twenty feet of water + that was finally bridged with a long slender tree trunk. That left the track end under water and we hurried to secure it with inclined forked poles.
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2.21. p. 18. That tree was the weakest link in the chain and took the full pressure of the stream. To hear every drop rain given to fall as we were completely the fragile lot & it doesn't take long before the river rises. Well two-thirds of the baggage was across & Heely & I went over. Then all that half a dozen pieces were over. By this time the stream was stronger & a number of our dogs were chest deep in the torrent dragging the bridge. Just as the last three cargo came on to the tree the trestle gave way & each half severing downstream from its respective tree. But our dogs were not beaten & the strongest with poles got the weak ones with their loads (dogs) across the open gap chest-deep. I felt terribly apprehensive after the bridge span gave way that some of them would lose this footing & be swept down stream. With that worry as well as the knowledge that we are working against time to get out & send the posters back to Willis' made me feel pretty worked up. We camped half an hour later at Heely's old site a short way down river. Checked a few bearings & find the barometer reading (8:30 pm) 2:20 meters. What a relief to be across that river. If we hadn't got over this afternoon there's no say but we'd have lost another 24 hours. So things are we are comfortably in camp on the right side & have issued an extra half ration of rice to the boys to celebrate. Friday, July 17th A hard day. From the camp by the Snake (Palmer) River, which was decided higher this morning 4 hours up to Willis's camp where the 6 bags of rice were left. Of those bags four were found spoiled while the rice in the other two was only doubtfully usable. Pushed on fine-This another 3\1/2 hours while brought us down to Heely's fully camp. Rain came on quite heavily & everyone cold soaked
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L.21. P.19 and cold. Anyhow as a result of jett[ing] this far we should be able to cross the [illegible] tomorrow. Also unfortunate to suffering from muscular fatigue of the shoulders. His whole neck & shoulders are stiff and painful. Saturday, July 18. Left Sully camp at 7.30 and making really good progress reached the 500 meter sortt [illegible] camp at 10.40. At this camp I had planned to stay for a couple of days trapping but under present circumstances we must of course push on. We got down the steep slopes to Healy's camp on the lower slopes at about 1.20 and pushed on at once down to the ferr half an hour later. The river was decidedly deeper than when I crossed it going in and was discolored to a smelly hue by lichen. The current was running strongly over the shallow places and it proved advisable to make the crossing for the larger piece of cargo at a spot where the water was deep & quieter. It took the boys waist deep or more and the crossing was completed at 2.30. An hour later we reached Healy's south ten camp. On the way down the hill I once more (about the 4th time) encountered wasps and this time in brushing them away was so unfortunate as to break my eye glass frames at the bridge. Being able to see only imperfectly sort of put me out of action. In camps before I have managed a rough sort of repair which I hope will hold together. Barmeta (6 p.m.) 190 m. Sunday, July 19. Left camp at 7.30 am and made good progress. 8.30 Lock's's Len Camp where I stayed before and 9.00 down to the north of the Len. Pushing right on we reached the corner of the Palmer (610 mile marks) at 10.45. The Palmer was three feet higher than when I saw it before. Left again at 10.50 and arrived here at 3.55. The boys pretty tired. Healy & I take turns at being head & tail of the procession we change at each halt as a rule. The high river [illegible]
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L.21. P.19. the early part of the week had washed away many of the log bridges, a fact that delayed us somewhat. And I observed from the sight of drift wood deposited up the banks how very high the water has been. See both under whether it went into the Black River camps, for I had been doubtful whether that camps was high enough some weeks before but Rand insisted that he did not think the river would ever get that high. Lined up the boys this morning again we started and redistributed the loads. Melva have a cute little trick as the rice in their loads gets used up, I paddling out their packer with Henkel's R. Barometer in this camp (Healy's on the hill) at 7 p.m. 150 meters. Shower at 6 o'clock. Monday, July 20. Left camps 7.10 and reached Black B. at 11.35. Got across the river by 9 o'clock. Left South Black R. camp at 3.20, getting in to the tent at 5.55. We made excellent time, finding the ground far only slightly eroded and some of the streams fordable weren't deep. At the house where I forgot the pig on the way in I found nobody. The people were absent. And here Healy took the fold trail through the swamp while half of our carriers take the new one. The two converged a few minutes from Black River. We fed the boys while a roof was being built. Unfortunately one log swung suddenly and struck one of our boys in the table, and we were afraid he might be seriously injured, but he later sat up and even walked about slowly. It was then for that however to leave him with another boy and a policeman to look after him until tomorrow.
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L 21, P 20 From Smith Block in to our final destination, the boys simply tore along. I had not 2 1/2 hours travel down the Block and the Palmer. He left 4 tops of rice with the sick boy which will serve for the boys when they go in again for Willie the day after tomorrow. We are relieved (Holy S) to learn that there is a full months store of rice here; also that though the river has been very high it has not actually entered camp. Also the little receiver has done fine service & Reed Brown had already a fairly fair idea of the situation, in consequence of which they had repaired all the bridges at the camp end of the trail against my arrival. We got in to camp in a gloriously fine afternoon which contrasted markedly with rainy mountain weather we have been having. Learned that the locals tried to raid the store & again later got away with a knife and an axe. The third time they came they ran into the string of a trap gun (painted up in the air of course) but after that they all cleared out. How only the Black River people come in. The big flood which I feared might have come into camp was only a couple of inches higher than to object I saw before leaving for the mountains. Tuesday, July 21. Staff and rather lary this morning. Rain. Getting every thing set to dry clothes dried out. Blue killed a large handirot [illegible] just since Peroychis near camp some days ago. And then have been four sets boys at in. Sent boys out to fetch the sick boy & four sacks rice left at th
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Black River. He walked most of the way in, so we hope that with rest he will quite soon. Sending back 30 boys and 2 police for Willis. They leave tomorrow. Spent nearly 6 hours starting the motor generator. The main wireless set functions well but that compressed power supply is very finicky. This evening at 5.15 Archbold picked up fragments of a broadcast by Archbold to the effect that the "Raina" has not turned up yet & they are having very bad seas along the coast. The "Goodwill" came in instead because she turns her nose & won't have enough until the "Paperman Chief" brings a supply about July 27th. We have food here until August 1st I think any way. 6 p.m. weather clearing. 10 p.m. heavy rain! Wed. July 22. Got things to Dave and "Port" + reported arrival of ourselves, that we were sending carriers back this morning for Willis, & that we had food to last till August 1st. Port reported the "Raina" overdue. Drying boxes and packing specimens most of day. Evening, overheard Archbold + Port Murray: the "Raina" had just arrived. They will rig wireless on her and both Archbold and Tustedt will leave with her on Friday. Rain falling again tonight. Boys have been cutting logs all day - I quite a lot ready for use. 48 large logs required. Thurs. July 23. Packed boxes for Middle Fly. In truck Dave and VIG. In p.m. set 10 steel traps. The boys now have about 40 logs cut for the rafts. Fairly clear day till 3 o'clock - then rain. Fri. July 24. Once out but no rains. Things are dead clocks so far as collecting goes. The boys are all busy getting out raft timber & the white people are planning future moves. The present plans, subject to Archbold's approval is to make two at p.m. on the way down the
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L 21, P 22 river, one at the level of the of the mixed swamp and ridge country between the Fly R and Lake Murray (which Brass + I noted mite way up), and another somewhere near the Tariful Trap. I islands. While I personally don't expect much from them, stationing the other two do. Anyway it will clean up the area. From Dame while we ought to reach at the beginning of October we shall go on the "Mainer" along the south coast as far as the Dutch border to the Bensbach R. country ends in the way back possibly stop at the Strachan Island section. That work should terminate our investigations in southern Papua. Went out at 9 ock to look at some stud traps or to get another two. Nothing in the old ones. In the afternoon Healy + I started mapping the Serpe basin & the surrounding hills. Considerable changes in existing maps will probably result. Failed to hear anything of VHW8 at 4,30 pm. S at, July 25. Risen early in night. Overcast this morning. I've been running my mixed cone-traps over nine returning to Black River camp that the number of Thrips flying seems much smaller. There are quite a few new ones however. The feature of the day was the catching of Hydromys the water rat of Australia and New Guinea. Archbold did not come across it last trip and until now I had seen no trace of it, altho I had looked for foot prints in riverside mud. In a steep trap set in forest in a place where a usually dry gully is crossed by a low (1 ft high) bridge of earth and roots I had set two traps - one under the bridge & one on it. The Hydromys was caught in the upper trap. It made a lot paroling noise as I approached. The nearest gully with water flowing in it must be 50 yds a more away, so it looks as tho the species taken has the habit of leaving the river and penetrating up the practically dry minor gullies into the woods. The animal was brought to camp alive & released on a cork for photographing. It was active and could make distal short jumps. It appeared aggressive of temper and went out if its way to attack and bite sticks that were held near it. What
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21. p. 23 it was being pushed into position for the camera it usually turned a bit at to stick instead of avoiding it. In a pool in the river it first descends deeply. Now lay in the water floats quite high in it (perhaps due to quantity of air in fur); afterwards it swims steadily and dives a number of times to the bottom of the quite shallow pool in which it was first tried. In a deeper pool it refused to dive, being tired perhaps. The external anatomy of the animal needs little noting. The head is very flat or type and the eyes small (6 mm.) from corner to corner, vibrissae long & prominent, tips upper lips straight and transverse marked overhanging the mouth; median cleft of upper lip pronounced and deep, rhinarium bare only between the nostrils where openings are turned upward and backward— thus remaining above water when most of the head is submerged. Ears rather small lacking external features. The fureta of the back carries down the shoulder and later side of fore-arm into the outer dorsal side of the head and covers the 5th digit and the base of its 4th. No webbing on fore feet (mm. surrounding); hind feet with half web between D 2+3 and 3+4, Plantar surface with usual tuberculate surface and reduced pads. Testes very large. Tail with long dark hair, 4th the last 100 mm. with the hairs white. Longest digit of h.ft the 4th. Thumb of four feet with claw approaching nail-like form. When skinning the specimen it was found that the infra-orbital branch of the Trigeminal nerve follows the large infra-orbital foramen and extends forward as a number of nerve branches to innervate the turgid upper lip region in which all the large vibrissae take their beginning. The palatal ridges are as below: The tibia and fibula are fused; the radius and ulna free. The tail will not "pull" but 1st molar surface must be split and skinned, except at the very tip. The two molar teeth are relatively narrow, as the species is probably esox (or perhaps beccarii or naucraus). This afternoon Kelly + I finished rough-plotting our map of the trip into the mountains. It indicates a number of minor changes in Champion's map & shows the route followed by us fairly well. Shortly, one of my boys brought me in a male spotted eunuch just now (6 p.m.). It was shot a couple of miles south of here. It is a fine specimen in excellent pelage.
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Sunday - July 26. Nothing in traps today; two spring. Looking for possible Hydrophy sites. The Phalanger caught yesterday is still a bit gang, for it still has both milk premolar and the new permanent premolar in position in one side of the lower jaw. Learned from Tulsted that the "Maria" is 20 miles above Madrin; she stripped some coconuts, and that Mrs Cowling (L.16, pp 2-3) sends regards to all of us. Practically all craft tops are now cut and huge quantities of "wairu" (Irish-nape, genus Calamus) or "lawyu cane" have been brought in ready for tying up the rafts. The river appears to be behaving itself and we've not had too much rain, which argues for the speedy arrival of Willie's and the forty-old tops whom she now has with him. VHWs asked when we expected him & I said in about a week. Brass has just cut the hair of Healy and yours truly. He never cut hair before! The following bearings taken by Healy inside the mtn area (the true bearing is held by adding 5° to each one): — From Narin - Palmer gravel thr: — Karika 248°, Matron 3580°, Beecher 105° Air field on slope of Beecher: — Karika 244°, E end Saw 268°, West Sare 7 298°, Matron 331° From Leap-Tungom junction: — Karika 220°, Beecher 148° Kor'isala Camp (West Matron) Karika 189°, Matron 122° From Village (Matron) S. tip Blücher 143°, Karika 217°, Matrin (N. tp) 344°, Tungom 88°, Luebo-Narin jctn 174° From Englam ridge between Gully Camp and G-Boy camp: Landslide in Blücher 80° From Black R. Camp E end Sare 355°, E end Blücher 3 peaks on Blücher 34°, 39°, 45°, E tip of west Blücher 48° From Willie's 3 tier camp — Blücher landslide 20° This afternoon went out to look at a large brown found by Reed. It is probably that I a large landslide. Mixed up a lot of new faith. Some natives brought in a small pig, some sweet potatoes, and some
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L. 21. P. 25. sago. They are the first I have seen since my return. My light metin went out of commission today. Monday, July 27th. The river getting steadily lower; the outfit definitely to help Willis. The "Meira" reports being at Alligator Island along the Dorflex group this morning. Within in the steel traps, made a few new sets. Rio has set the and fort considerably overhewn. Have him painting my kit bag, and the trip (the field hat I wear. The latter looked badly under the downpour of Mt Blücher. One of my 3 pair boots is beginning to go too, but my third pair in yet new. I think I must have worn the pair that is giving way with ways during the mountain trip (which was a walk of about 80 miles). This afternoon took Sororo a set two traps in the bottom of the big bandicoot referred to yesterday. Sororo showed me some other holes (apparently bandicoot) in which we can set traps tomorrow. The d'Alberto creeper is just coming into full flower along the river and in the jungle. Great patterns and garlands of blossoms colored a soft beautiful red not unlike that of the scarlet runner bean. Tuesday July 28th. Fair all night. Lovely sunset and sunrise. A squall yesterday about 4 pm from the S W. made clay muddy off the rivermouth y-day. Another bit of bad news by radio: The "Meira" is stuck with a broken crankshaft about 15 mi. above Alligator Island. Archbold has cut Tuledel back to Dawn with the "Wari" to arrange for the "Ronald S." to come up as relief ship. In a message from Rogers at Port Moresby he offered to try in provisions by plane, suggesting the old Cronville camp as a delivery site. Our food situation is such that we have provisions for 60 trips for 3 weeks and for 5 while for 5 weeks. Nothing in traps. Nations brought in yet another pig today. Am getting all the photos possible of them before we clean out. Tying up of the first raft was begun this p.m. Henry came at night. Wed. July 29th. Nothing but a Voranid directed in traps. Learned that Tuledel reached Dawn last night. West Williams Co. coming back up river, perhaps to occupy the old Cronville station. Some of their stuff apparently on the "Ronald S."
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that ship to recruit 5 Bamu river boys for the new census & then apparently came up the Fly to meet us. We talked to Archbold & Nicholson in the "train" this morning too, no news yet of Willis but he ought to get out during the next few days. Two more rafts built today. Thursday, July 30th. We were treated last night to the sight of large numbers (200 - 300) of great fruit bats or flying foxes streaming up-river in a northeasterly direction, most of them outside opposite the camp. They flew high; from 1/2 to twice as high as the forest, but one or two got a bit lower. They were too high for a shot gun but Rand made a good shot & got me with his rifle. The bullet struck a wing of the bat fell at the river edge. It was killed with eye-pick but proved extremely resistant. After it fell it uttered a number of loud harsh growing screams which caused one of its companions to circle over us two or three times. [illegible] [illegible]
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clavic mastoid pectoral -sternum sterno clacicular articulat pectanl CUT extensor flexion add. 16 3rd rib 5= vein latissimus? muscle originally at coracoid try last descend muscle in abdominal muscles pectalminne rib liver alba 4= slip from later. portion of connect. with clavicle trapezius spine scapula Subscapulari? to infd scap. 6= latissimus dorsi ? Parotid Lamboided utr. sternumastoid origin direct v. insertion near mastoid process trapezius spine scapula 1= insert on upper half of inner edge of scapula. 7= ? decussating fibers ? spina scapularis ribs Teres? part of subscapularis ventry on rib origin at external edge of scapula 8= Latisimus cut mid dorsal line Trapezius cut. The foregoing eight drawings give some idea of the anatomy of the animal, parts just which I dissected. The occiput and atlas are articulated so as to allow extreme forward motion of the head. Peculiarities seem mainly restricted to the muscles of locomotion and up-side-down feeding adaptation. no thymus found. Deltoid apparently absent. Especially no scapula (one) Pteropus S# 2500
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L.21, P. 28. Tested the eyes with electric tach, the iris partly closed but the back of the eye threw back a distinct yellowish white reflection. The claw, present in Dotoinea and Nyctinema, is also to be found on the 2nd dorsal digit in this specimen. Sunday July 31st. Rain again. Last night at the river part way up again this morning. Tolstoft just back at the "Maira", according radio arrived on the "Wanwi". The "Ronald S" at the Bame recruite boys today to leave for up- fly tomorrow or next day. Auchhold will come up to meet us on the "Ronald S," and go back on her, after which he is going back to the "Stake". One of our raft-builders bought me a living Nyctineme which I plan to photograph tomorrow. Sett. Aug, 1st. Thunder shown last night. Rises up a bit (it freed down during the day). One adult Pseudomyz which has been raiding the traps if pues in the store trapped. Set out no nest traps. 3.30 a neft just came around the corner with the Police sergeant and one of his men on it. They report Wille's men this side of the Black River. One boy tying carried. By Jore I D'm glad to get that news. This is the eleventh day since we sent the carriers out. Sergant says they arrived at Corisala (next Mabion) in 5-2 days, the same as Healy + I, & stopped at the same camps. He had to carry one boy, (the one with the stump(?) foot all the way. During the time he waited at Mabion he secured partly by Kanamoa's trapping & partly through the Unkia people a browni Parryella, two Echinyears, 2 opp of Delomyn a gray Pholagyn, and a Phascolole; but unfortunately the skulls of all appear to have been lost. Four of the Unkia people accompanied he as far as Bully Camp on Obluchen. The course of the loop was made by raft, while the police & porters made on the way up + which was again used coming out. Wille's brought out nearly everything. He reached camp about 5.10 p.m. Sunday, Aug. 2nd. A juvenile found Delomyns in traps. Boys tying up rafts still. No news of "Ronald S." Collecting stores and fort for each raft. Monday, Aug. 3rd. Completing arrangements to leave day after tomorrow. Leather Port mostly now the "Maira" have carg work on the "Ronald S." as far as 11.30 Overheard "Ronald" talking with Port & optman with the "Maira"; she is due to reach the letter tomorrow, so also
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L. 21. P. 39. Willie's compass bearing taken during his trip out (magn.) From Karike: Karike 192° SE and SSW 223° NW and SW 289° Small hill (open Blücher) 167 From Naini Techa proper: Karike 234° Mabon 336° From Luepo Camp: Karike 245° Mabon → Village 250° From Mabon Village Karike 220° S tip Blücher 144(?) Tanganyika 89° Leaving Luepo for Blücher Mabon (346°) = 353° must be somewhere near Madini this morning. If she gets away from the "main" the following day (Aug. 5) She will still not reach the Groville camp under a week, I suspect. Evening: little news except that we have been packing and cleaning up and putting final touches on rafts. Even so when we come to test things we may find we need more. The final plan is to keep together then a white man or a native policeman in charge of each raft. Not take care of eleven rafts. The rest will have to be handled by leading boys. Tuesday Aug. 4. The "Pond" reached the "main" this morning, as I learned from a special schedule at noon. And we for our part got away with all our 12 (not 14) rafts at 8 o'clock. We traveled till 6, 30, encountering one or two shallows where some rafts went aground and had to be helped off. They are heavy H-lop craft a hard to hand except in perfectly smooth straight going. About 4 torrential rain started & tonight the river is rising & rain still falling. The order of march (so far as it can be held) is Heely in lead with a fairly light raft, then Willie's, then a boys' raft, then my raft, boys' raft, Brass's raft, the remaining boys' rafts + in the rear Pond's raft. Pond
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for the collapsible dinghy with him and for two to three it is sent down the line to the head of the island & then waits for the near of the lake. After this acts as messenger & assures me that everyone is still with us! we are tied up in a row along the bank but the place is not too good & rather exposed. I had just time after we tied up to slay together the rafts receiving set & get time signals & churchhold's announcement that he was on the "Ronald S." and on the way up the river already. He will tell us his position each evening. Wednesday Aug. 5 A tremendous flood came down river last night, the stream rising steadily for near twenty feet and increasing so in velocity that we feared greatly for our morning lives. One line did part one on the boys' rafts but she swung by a tail line & was re-seeked. Last night or again this morning many hundreds of fruit bats flew over us. This morning about 10 when the river was practically at high & had overflowed the ground level of the island a pair of huge flying trees one led on, the other crosswise came around the corner and crashed through the small fringe tree into which each raft had but adjusted its way stuck between Willis's & Healy's rafts, and sticking the raft of Brown a flood that knocked it rather askew, carried off Willis's raft into the stream. An attempt was made to get a rope out to him but the boy who caught it could not hold it. So Willis with 3 boys on board & the dog stuck disappeared around the bend. Healy's float was driven sideways among the saplings of brush. Brown's was smashed hard against mine. There was nothing we could do to help Willis more than send a boy with a rope in the dinghy after him. That will give him a crew of four. We were pretty busy ourselves repairing snapped lines & separating the rafts which had become jammed together. Doubtless he pulled into the place at the first chance and repaired the damage! The river is falling now (3:45 p.m.) plus one down almost 2 feet. By 5 o'clock the water was down to the level of the island & continued falling rapidly. We had to be constantly on the watch as six rafts stranded. I heard Juliette at 6. They expect much rainfall tonight--almost certain tomorrow.
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Thursday Aug. 6. No excitement in the night except that a tree on the bank threatened to cave over off Bran's raft, and an enormous tree fell into the river. Water then morning 7 feet below high + we start about 8 o'clock. Having a few fast spots where we were nearly drenched when trees overhanging the banks all bar gone well (9:30). Healy left at 7:45 & I not more than 10 minutes later. We passed the mouth of the R. Tully at 8:30 a.m. This raft having to carry the radio is the heaviest of danger due to the same time the hardest to handle. We estimate its of logs or weight nearly 2 tons each + our gents look as about 1700 lbs. Soon after leaving (in the rain) & there was the dinghy with a boy waiting in it at the spot where Willis had continued to haul in his raft & spend the night. Later he was sent ahead with the two members of Willis's crew who had been left behind. Apparently nobody was injured where Willis on his raft was so suddenly torn from our midst by the big log; but I hope to fit details tonight. At 11:30 we passed the mouth of Surprise Creek. From about 10 or 11 o'clock on the going has been excellent with few sharp corners + the river broad & deep. I caught up with Willis who reports no harm done by the tree. It had been arranged that everybody should edge over to the right a swing in at the junction between the Sly and Palmer Rivers where a couple added forms but Healy in the lead couldn't "make" it a tried to get into a place on the opposite side. A lot of us could undoubtedly have gone in but everybody followed Healy. The upshot is that rafts are strung all the shore for miles. The heavy rafts are so unwieldy and the solace & stony + so overhung with vegetation that about the only chance to get out of this current is to work into a lock-water. That we did a well as is another with one of the police in charge. Well in spite I had scalded, things are definitely better. The river is now too hot to be dangerous, the weather has improved very much; and we are within a day & a half of the Orville camp where everybody is its forefather.
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L. 21. P. 37 one other thing last night just as we were going to bed: an enormous tree can down clear first and locked branches with a large snag when it lay teetering for moments, then the butt commenced to swing in towards the bank where we were all anchored. We fended it off with poles but it kept coming back. At length by tying two poles together we succeeded in getting it to swing out into the current. Even then it being into the snag was still there in the morning. Friday, Aug 7. Three enormous eddies are double-edged tools. We couldn't get our guns until the second try and a single whirl took twenty minutes. Even then it was a devilish hard pull. I had boys alternating guard last night & I set my alarm clock for every three. Was afraid the river might fall & trees down onto a snag where we might have stayed till dark day (or the next big flood). Heard Healy shout over the signal that he was starting out. Due to the eddy I didn't get away till nearly 7 o'clock. Heard Rand just around the corner on the island alone out of Palmer Camp, & Brass, Healy and the sergeant had apparently stayed there all night. Thousands of fruit trees across the river - the same I went in search of back in May & couldn't find. Don't quite understand that as I'm sure I want that far up river. Got down the long E-W stretch (9,05) two freshmen in a canoe called "Saco, Saco" (? friend) 10.15 Reached upper end McCrossan Island; turned 10.35 11.15 Saw half a dozen natives with 2 canoes on left bank. One of them called out in Italian & it developed that he and Aremusa (our policeman) are somehow acquainted. Anyhow the usual invitation was started to the freshmen to bring food to the Griville place which we shall undoubtedly reach today. 3.15 Passed large river or left, The Elevado... And by is now at least a quarter of a mile wide and its meanders are relatively enormous. Moreover as the water is fairly high there is little danger of running onto snags. This evening the first time I have seen the stars for weeks we are all tied up in a row alongs
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L. 21. P. 33 Sheltered (from drifting logs) side of a huge bend in the river, moved head to tail as it were, so that we whites can step across from raft to raft. I settle crowd to supper with me on my raft. Archibald reported good progress by the "Ronald S." which had been traveling from 4 a.m. till nearly 6 p.m. She ought to be in the big swamp now. We ourselves expect to make Oroville in a few hours tomorrow. Several large fruit bat colonies were passed today, it was about 5 o'clock when we tied up our rafts. Looking at the trees where fruit bats roost, most appear dead or nearly dead; Archibald and I suggest that the bats kill them. How? Mechanically, by wearing away bark & foliage with the constant ability of climbing lots of many hundreds of individuals. However, there are quite a lot of trees in similar condition which are bat nests, so here is an alternative explanation—namely that flying foxes prefer that kind of tree to roost in. Saturday, Aug 3. A splendid night's rest for all. No rain, no worry about rising or falling river. Set away at 7.30. The day promises to be fair and we hope to reach Oroville Camp today in a few hours. The river flowed on in gigantic sweeping bends. One raft carrying boys only got mixed up with snags & overhanging trees but they cut their way out of them without trouble, they lightly loaded. We heard a shot ahead of us just the long bank of the Oroville airplane steamer, not anchored with second growth, five in sight. She stops meant that here had arrived. All rafts clung to the right bank and edged cautiously down by holding into the vegetation for no one wanted to be swept past. I got in about 12.30. We at once occupied every house in the camp (they are palm-roofed tropical huts). Tonight I talked with Dick for the first time since Black River when we commenced rafting. I have been listening each night but not transmitting. The "Ronald S." expects to reach Pargi Island (15 miles below the mouth of the Alice River) by tomorrow. So all's well.
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Sunday, Aug. 9. Splendid weather. Talked to Dick on the "Pineda S." this morning - No news; they are coming steadily along; boat may stay for it days. Managed to get a few steps out last night. One Rattles near trader also a fine Greely, the latter picked up when the tree died on the ground. Crossed the river to the old airplane runway now swallowed in grass to see if any good for "jacking"; also spent the collecting word among the "puma kei" (local natives). Morning fair + pleasant; never falling; a touch of the S.E. wind. Plenty of locals. They all know the meaning of white folk since the Orville camp left only ten months ago, also two boys of the Alice River whom we brought up with us last May on the "Maria" have doubtless told them all they knew about us. The upset is that we have had plenty in already & they understand we want them to bring in birds or mammals. Some know even a few words of Whotun. This afternoon another Greely (a another species) and a small Dotzonia were brought to me. I think that if I have time enough I can pick up a good collection here & perhaps fill some of the gaps. Splendid weather all day. Work a trail to the NW, this afternoon, which is wide & relatively open; plan to go along it with a light tonight. River Creek creek Orville Camp Fly River airplane runway River River River
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Have now 80 rat traps out and a good many stul traps. L.21. P.35. Monday, Aug. 10. Started out with light last night but rain came on & I returned to camp. Archbold reports slow progress: they were still a mile below Rooggi Island when we talked this morning. So they will not reach here till tomorrow. In traps only a Rattus but the trees are bringing in melurus, a Melomys, a Pogonomys and this afternoon a female Phalanger. Took a walk down the river along a well-beaten track. Saw footprints of melomys, thomy?, and bandicoot. Did not go very far either. In afternoon more rats including two Pogonomys and a Phalange were brought in. Just before we went in to supper a light appeared far down the river. She faint hums of engines together with the yell of the boys showed that it must be the "Ronald S". By eight o'clock she was quite near, and in a few minutes anchored for the night. Archbold & Taledt with two Orville men Burke and Korn came aboard in the boat's dinghy. We talked till late. Tuesday Aug. 11. Unloading the "Ronald S". Our cargo had all to be taken out to get at the Orville cargo. Healy had to sign on the 25 Kiwai boys recruited by Orville at Kiwai Island at the north of the Fly. Plenty of mail arrived & lots of stores which we have been short. Wednesday Aug. 12. A few more mammals but nothing new. Plan to clear tomorrow morning for the middle Fly - probably a few miles above Eueville Junction (where the Strickland joins the Fly). Little in the way of news. Thursday, Aug. 13. Left the Orville Camp about 7.30. The River has been falling for several days so that plenty of mud banks are showing. I fancy however that it is rising again this morning. A couple of crocodiles shot at. The Orville people class the rock which I have called "conglomerate" in these pages as sandstone. It is however for the most part extremely soft, thinly divided, and clayey. A good sized crocodile said to be female just killed a few miles above the mouth of the Alice River. Was taken with the ship's dinghy to be skinned. I got a good series of pictures of it. Total length 2900. 11.30 Passed the mouth of the Alice River. The tribes around Orville are named Ka-wah, A-win and Oe aspidates, respectively from OK Teeki, Black Palmer, OK Mait,
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L.21. P.36. It seems therefore that the trouble name of the people we had dealings with is A-win. 1.15-1.30 Passed Ragge Island (the "cut-off" of our trip upriver-L.16, P.8). Hauled in to the Dutch New Guinea shore about 40 miles below the mouth of the Albin about 5 o'clock. Put all the boys ashore under canvas. Willie + Teubstedt also ashore, the latter to watch the generator charging batteries. Put out no rat traps. Friday, Aug. 14. 40 traps were put out last night but rather late. Nothing caught. On our way by 6.30. 7.30 Passed Village on river bank. 1.30 Passed upper Dutch Mission (no mission seen). About 3 pm passed lower Dutch Mission- went ashore then for few minutes. About 5 pm camped for night at village on Dutch shore. Set a bunch of traps. Saturday, Aug. 15. Away soon after 6.40. The village at which we put the boys ashore consists of a dozen or more houses, a large sort of barracks-like place apparently built by the Dutch Government. There were dozens of small dogs about. Behind the village the ground rises gradually and a very good bush-trail, broad-clear leads away to the left or S.W. along the crest of a ridge 50 feet above the river in the vicinity of the R. Digul down which boats go to Merouke! Our boys brought a lot of brown-tanorbs. Two Rattus in traps: #1+8, the latter with manure 1-2=6. Here note resembles those of Onville except in the thickness of the toes of the hind feet. In both of the villages stopped at we noticed a good deal of elephantiasis or it is just possible that the condition of the feet of these rats is pathological. The rats are members of the R. sergens group. 11.15 Passed old camp-site where Brian + I stayed on May 8th. Did not recognize place where aeroplanes joined us. 2-2.30 we shot + picked up 2 males + a female Pteropus from a bat-tree where 2 or 3 were roosting. A big hawk with nest close by. These species different from the one of Palmer-Black Reason. 4.45 Passed the Won Lagoon (=Lake Herbert Hoover). Lots of water fowl seen. Dried up for night at tip of north-east-rising ridge at 6.30. Sunday, Aug. 16. One Melomys taken last night. Set under way about 6.30. At 7 came level with Iris hill, front around a object nearby, lying about 2 miles east. Rand + Grebhold with two dogs thru! the ships duly by + found their way
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through the swamp grasses towards the shore. Over to the right and quite a bit up. If we could see a canoe with several men in it. 8.45 (Can hour out for the landing party which reports again if wallaby) A large lagoon far away on the right bank. 9.30 A very large lagoon several miles long far off on right bank. Signatures of members of the expedition: L.G. Brown, Crown Nest, via Brisbane, Queensland. Michael Kelly, Govmnt Secretary, Pat Moreby. Alan Willis, No. Burns Phelps & Papua Pat Moreby. Ewing C. Galletly, 7040 Colonial Rd. Brooklyn, N.Y. Just about noon we came to a very large lagoon called Daviumber, lying to the right of the river and containing several islands and higher land behind it. Part of the fringing hills are savanna covered, the rest in forest. On one headland there is a native village and there are three or four large coconut groves scattered about. The location is a few miles above Eveille Junction. One native in canoe came to meet us as we rowed up the narrow winding reed-edged canal that joins the lagoon to the river. His name is Arambici, and he has served in the police at (245) Dare for 2 years. We are taking the "Rynold S" inside next. Got inside about 3.15 and cruised around until 5.30 pm The lake is very interesting because of its unexpected nature. It contains number of islands among which we cruised for some time. Its depth varies from 9 to 20 feet over most of its area. Beautiful pink water lilies, their stalks 6 to 8 feet long are in bloom or have gone to seed. Their leaves are enormous (1 ft to 18" across). When finally we anchored for the night at us near some savanna hills which we explored throughly before sundown. They have a fauna of their own but the place is not suitable for a base camp for a month. Some shall look further amongst. Six of the local people came in 2 canoes to see
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us. Three of them have been down to Dane, & we worked our propaganda "bring birds + animals" on them, showing them some specimens. Three of the men spoke some Motuen. Their own language is simply guttered. Monday, Aug. 17. Shower last night. Today rather overcast. We crossed over to look at the northwest corner of the lake which offers fair possibilities for a actual camp. About 15 Suteis came in 2 canoes to see us + a lively trade in tory drums, bags, canoe paddles re soon developed. They are well built people, wearing large white shells, strings of conies, loin-cloth, armlets + anklets, and have their plaits with grass into numerous tangles. (See photos). We are cruising about the south end of the lake at this moment, giving some of the Suteis a free ride in the two dinghys trailing astern of us. Tuesday, Aug. 18. This morning the finishing touches were put on the camp; the radio went up! And about 3 o'clock the "Ronald S." sailed with Archbold, Willis and Tublsted on her, leaving Healy, Bress, Rand and me with six police and about 1/8 trap to work the lake. Had no traps out last night. Set out quite a lot today, but pretty busy this poor jelly organized. About to catch lots of small bats - probably bat-allowance while about army tree tops.
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L-23, P.2 Wednesday, Aug. 19. Mosquitoes (non-malarial) were a nuisance in the evening. Night clear. Morning temperature down to 71°. Plan to keep a hammock near here. A Trilmops musculus in traps and two others brought in by Sukelis. A Phaeogale (3 dorsal stripes) set by Ego-ego (kid boy). This animal represents one of the catagories recently distributed by Stern. It looks like a Tupara & has only pointed nose. The boy got it on the ground. But one of our police say it clinks trees & that a number live in a simple nest. A Blamps brought in in the afternoon. Thursday, Aug 20. Today two opp of Trilmops the proo-inhabit, musculus and the first textured one of its north; Rattus brechyskinies, as an exceedingly interesting, possibly new landclint. It is very small (field # 2558) and is not adult. The snill fremder (?) presents unusual characters and in the skin the tail is long & the ears large with the margin of each inside covered with pale brown tains. In the fore foot the 4th digit is long (comp. Echimyus). The tail is full but densely hairy. Furthest long asander. Is it new or a young Doodon. The ears are large and rather pointed but broad near the head. Saw the boys out with guns and some steel traps. Also made more sets for R. brechyskinies. Baited my steel traps south of camp with bananas to try to get Doodon. Have had strong breeze all day — sufficient to make little white-caps on the lake. The climate here is very dry, yet at the same time there are quantities of mosquitoes. Camp is situated on a sort of peninsula with water on either side of us, and a scattering of trees give shade. North the trees give place to savanna & clumps of bamboo; south to a dry phase of forest which is comparatively open and contains little or no Colomines. The lake is extensive, a couple of miles either way, pretty isolated and contains many islands, some of them quite large. The Sukis have built a new camp on one plot near islands, importing their families. Probably they will do some hunting for us later on.
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To Village L.23, P.3. Diagram of Lake Daricwka swamps. grass lands Ti tree areas Junk. --- = Course taken by the "Ronald S" From W to E is probably 3 miles. The lake is fairly uniform depth except near its shores - from 9 to 12 feet. Thursday, Aug. 21, 1936. Fair night, went Jacke[ing] with light last night. No luck. This morning took Ada and the doggy and we crossed to the sawanna north of [illegible] and went over to the Tea-tree sawanna looking for wallaby. Plenty of tracks & dancing places but no animals head it often, the grass very thick. In traps 3 [illegible] of Amelomya and a Rattus brevipinnis. Heely went in a native canoe with one of his police to visit the village west of here. He says it is rather a poor example of its kind - about 10 houses. He brought back a couple of Amelmys muriculis. About 6 a whole troop of Sukis came in with 11 Phalanger mureulatus which they had caught somewhere near the river. They had skinned & some have no skulls for those. Sat. Aug. 27. Traps yielded 2 small Melomys and a small from Phalacropis like that of Peltoni Tuntori (L.17, P.14) Every why busy skinning the Phalangere's tonight in last night. High wind every morning now. Another party reached Daric at 2, a.m.
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L.23, P.4. With the eleven cuscuses caught in last night were two young ones alive & active. Tried feeding them condensed milk & banana this morning but had to put other food in their mouths. The male has just the beginning of the ultimate spotted color. Its ears are yellowish and the base of the tail is buff. (photographed them). Then we have a 'baby' Snow-pink (the big sort of night hawk) and a fully-grown tiny perfectly tame fish-eagle. The Pukio are busy cleaning up camp for us. The cuscuses I paid for with pocket knives. This afternoon set out another 3 dozen rat traps. As I see the workings of the climate of this part of the country, the S.E. trade though laden with moisture from the south Pacific, is a cool wind; and reaching the low lands of the HyB region its water carrying capacity is increased by mixture with the warm air rising from the forests & savannas. Consequently it passes inland towards the mountains with redolent raininess. However as it gets some hundreds of miles inland not only (illegible) its temperature rises and its water content increased but it now travels so high almost the top of the forest that tree tops are practically undisturbed by it. Also occasionally it is driven high enough to cause some precipitation. On reaching the mountains however it is forced so high that most of its load of moisture is dropped. The 'north west' is a hot wet wind from the Indian Ocean which gives heavy rains and frequent thunderstorms. It is not a trade wind nor do I understand it yet but it may be an eddy wind from the NE Trade. The peculiarly rainy climate at Kikai in the Gulf may have something to do with the burned Plumey volcanos & the Tisana limestone area west of there. Sunday, Aug 23. Another big wed of cuscuses was brought in this morning. In traps a third sp. of Plescopale, a juv. Betta & a juv. Telomys murcels. Tried a new bait: dice mixed with honey. Won it in half the line. A bachelor adult bat similar to the young one taken Aug 20th in Rat trap set in grassy area.
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Monday Aug 24 No particular news. The traps L-23 P-5 yielded a Uromy and a Rattus brockyrhenius f Tried a new bait on half the line yesterday nice with a little honey mixed with it but caught moth on the half of the trap line in which it was tried out. Went back to old style of bait make a bat switten by splitting out the one end of a bamboo tying it out flat. I sat in 4 or 5 seats at once at dusk but did not hit him. Out 'jacking' but didn't see an eye Heard somethin onece but couldn't see it Plenty of spider's eyes and saw a couple of sphinx mothos flyin their eyes givng ruby red. Far out in the lake there was a great splash whist for a few moments either a large fish or a small alligator. About 6 o'clock Healy & I were sitting on the little wharf where we tie up with dimply of course watching the color of the sunsets in the water. Suddenly a large drop of water almost a teaspoonful shot out feet into the air & fell back. This was repeated gas a dozen times just as though a sharp jet from a water pistol had been released. It was done by the rifle fish a small fish which few can don't small insects by ejecting drops of water at them from its mouth as we described. Besides the creatures mentioned earlier we have three baby cassowaries here little chicken like birds with longitudinal stripes down their backs and practically no wings. They run after everybody when they think they have a little food for them & are liable to eat leaves or cotton wool or almost anything. Tues Aug 25 Two different colored Uromys and a R drochyrhenius The queens of green ants have been swarming today. Collected a few. This afternoon the lake's burned off the pass of an island near by probably to drive out landbirds & rats. In fact I did capture a far single specimen to be brought in later in the day. Also Widew one of Rand's boys got me a fine large male
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Cuscuna, we (Rand, Healy + I) took the big dinghy + rowed around Hurning Island but saw only a few Torres Strait Pigeons, a prob-billed cuckoo and the Hawks. – no manimals. Wed Aug 26: Heavy show about midnight. Humidity max saturation early this a.m. Dr traps 2 spp of animal helmys + a Hydromys. The H is a very smell sore, apparently nearly adult, or at least in adult fulep + with its teeth developed but scarcely worn. It may turn out to be a smaller species. The bandicoot I have been getting here is Droodon, but decidedly smaller in size than the one Drick got about Onight. It may be new. We thru Healy + I went over to the camp with Tumbon Island. The natives have made numerous little shelters + inclosures where the various families live. The women often wear bonnets made of bark or fiber which rest on their heads + long cape-like den their backs. There are several dogs there. We thoght they might eat the dogs, but they declare they keep them for hunting wallabies. One live small pig in a hutche. Several of the men conducted us through the camp. Ricky dogs + bundles of firewood right + left to make way. Saw two or three litters of pups. Took a few photos but it was late + the light none too good. Brrr One bandicoot resulted from the fire. It was in front conduct. Native fish traps are basket work cones, the ribs of which are of larger cane + have the spines all set inwards; the fish swimming inside to get bait can't get out because the spines hook under their scales. Developed photos last night. Another lot of people arrived last evening. They had been away making sago in the forest. They brought us bananas + sweet potatoes. Drick Healy got a part or cateculary yesterday. It seems they hang words for one + two only; when they want to say three or four they say two-one + two-two. What they do for 5 or 6 was a big bet try not as I find out.
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wed. 26 Aug. L.93. P.7. The outstanding event of today was the big wallaby hunt! About 50 Sukis with rifles, whites and some police took part. About 5 or 100 acres of grassland were burned over. The place is all interlaced with swamps so the game for the most part just walked into the water prevented further fire to go by. Having four Macquarie apes (the form of wallaby with the ear black-tipped), about seven bandicoots (Gordon) and a five new Melmops were taken. They were all in good condition. It was all very exciting. The planes roared along and the Sukis were spread widely all about the area with their dogs, arrows "at the ready", keenly watching to see what might break cover. Thursday, Aug. 27. This morning everybody very busy taking care of the catch made yesterday. On the trap this a.m. another Hydromys, a M. musculus and a young terrestrial giant Melmops. This Hydromys was trapped along a trickle of water that goes down a really deep stream back to the lake. The first one was caught in swampy grass. Mick Healy went over to the burned patch and got yet another wallaby this afternoon. He came back as yesterday we all did, so black as the ace of spades. At night the Sukis threw a dance. We went over and watched for a couple of hours. It was strictly a slap affair, mostly consisted of one fell of a din. About 30 men and boys took part. Each one had improvised a drum out of sections of bamboo and tin cans etc. & they passed forth to a fro with a knee and ankle flexure while they chanted three or four bars over your roar. In the flight of the kelp men and a couple of troopers under the bamboos the scene looked wild.
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L. 23. P. 8 Indeed, Betel nut was being chewed freely. When they finally got to the end of a chant. They would pause for a moment or two till somebody stuck up another. But as at a party at home we could tell they are discussing which particular opus they should put on next. I shot a few pictures with the hope that a little somethng may come out on them. One tiny lad (about 7 years I should think) was brought by his dad. He soon grew very tired + sat down in the midst of the dance floor. Iwell pa squatted down too + gave him a drag of the cigarette he was smoking. As that didn't work the two left the party. I occasional dog would wind its way among the ceaseless moving feet. Fransoase (the chief who met us the first day) got seats for us (this of firewood). When we came back to camp found that a handcart had been caught in a trap near the cook house. Friday Aug. 28. In traps yet another Hydromys and at Rattus brachyurinus. The H. was taken in Sago swamp. No special news late. Saturday, Aug. 29. Message from Papua to say that the "Rised S." will not be here still about the first of October. In traps 3 Rattus brachyurinus, 1 M. muscula and 1 arboreal Melomys. Photos of native dance the other night w g - not enough light. In p.m. a macropus leucani (scrub wallaby) was caught in, not by me [illegible] father's police. Sun. Aug. 30. Got some quite nice Lepidoptera this morning. Nothing in traps. 3 Baroma wallabies trapped in the evening. Mon. Aug. 31. This morning weather overcast + a high barometer. One large arboreal Melomys only in traps. Boop working on the 3 wallabies all morning. The flies + mosquitoes are such a nuisance in this camp that we have made a screened dining privacy room out of a net shing tent I had made in Hawaii. I think it will work quite well too.
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L.23.P.9 In the big wallaby hunt of the 26th a young one not very long out of the pouch was picked up quite faint among the water pampas where it had avoided the fire. It was dripping wet. When it was brought to camp I shut it up for its night in a kerosene box. Next day tied it up with a rope collar and a short end it was tethered out for 15 minutes. It threw itself wildly about & became very exhausted but soon slept, a few drops of water. It was then returned to the box. Next day it jumped around once more but at once accepted water in a tin. That night it was Tethered out to a stone & the box (with which it was now familiar) we left for a hiding place & shelter. At night under the dim light of a flash light I saw it feeding on some stalks of the hard bladd grass that form all near the clearing. I have been handling it frequently every day & it has gradually ceased to kick & fight & try to bite (it can undoubtedly bite hair) It drinks water freely now. Today I saw that it had dug up the earth of a roughly circular area about 1' feet across & made of the place a sort of form where by day it lies out dozing itself. In fact it lay out flat and showed no little concern when people came near it that I feared it was ill. It comes to life (so to say) about 5 o'clock when the sun gets low & eats grass & fine roots & little bits of other. If a little stir alarmed it now runs & sits on its form instead of bolting into its box as formerly. I'm calling it Mack (macropus). It no longer leaps wildly at the end of its string, only making its neck each time. I fancy it would make a good house mouse.
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Tuesday, Sept. 1. Barometer still high. L.23, P. 10. Weather fair. Only two mammals in traps - a young Dendron and a Melomys musculus. Archbold reports that they are now in Port Ronilly, clearing today. The soil in this region seems to consist a sort of surface lawn - pan with laterite pebbles scattered over it. Underneath there is a subsoil of stiff clay, a mixture of rather large particles of red + gray clays. At the camps site that clay goes down for at least 6 feet (sample). Even in the woods the laterite is plentiful. I'm curious about this lake. Its uniformity of depth and its scattering of islands is hard to account for. Perhaps- it represents an old river bed - or again it may have been ridgey country which was warped downwards + had its low parts drowned by water from the Fly R. Lake Murray gives the appearance of such an origin, only in its case there are at least two sub-mixed rivers flowing into it and it has an outlet to the Strickland River. In the afternoon I took two of the boys to put out 100 traps over the burnt savanna area where we had to kangaroo hunt. 70 were set at the margin of the burnt grass and the swamps; and 30 on the slightly higher ground forming the ridge - perhaps 3 feet above swamp level. Wednesday, Sept. 2. In Crea's line which was partly changed yesterday nothing. In the new line in the burnt area seem: 1 Phascolos, 6 Rattus bactysimines, 1 Melomys musculus. Only two, a R. bactystimines and the Melomys, were taken up on the dry ridge. This is about the catch I've had in Papua, the proportion of catch to total traps being 7 %. The pouch of the Phascolos can be sent distinctly to pen forwards. No young in it. Rend found about a dozen Emballonura nigrescens away low palms and shot two. They were only 6 or 8 feet from the ground when first flushed but flew up into the top of a palm + hung within a friend.
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L.23. P.11. Thur, Sep. 3. Seven mammals but nothing new today. Rain last night & barometer again high. The young wallaby seems late growing. When scared she makes a noise like a sort of whispered cough. She scratches with the syndactyloous toes of the hind foot. She has made a second form. When she drinks she laps like a dog or a cat. She occasionally sits with her tail right under her and pointing forwards, thus sitting with the dorsal surface of the tail on the ground. After morning took the big dinghy + my 4 traps rowed down to the SW corner of the lake. About an hour each way. Mixture of forest, ti-tree swamp & rush swamp. May try traps there later on. Three landcrabs caught in dry hollows after lunch. Saturday Sept. 4. Archibald on radio said they were due in Marysv at 5 o'clock tonight so in the next day or two we ought to learn something definite about the future. Rain last night, not heavy though. Dr traps across the burnt area: one Rattus brachyurus and two Plesacomys & + f. They were trapped as was the previous one along the junction of swamp with the burnt area. Can move traps over there as I want to get like to get a pot series of them. P.M. Have now 227 net traps over the burnt area + reaching along the edge of the swampy unburnt parts. Hope for quite a large catch. Sat., Sept. 5. A sort catch from across the water to N.E.: 5 Plesacomys +4 Rattus brachyurus. The plesacomys comprised 2 & + 3 f. Of the latter one was young, another was well developed + the pouch contained 6 mammals. Its third had 6 pouch young - i.e. the full complement for it also had only 6 mammae. 6 is apparently the specific number for this species. There is no unpaired central mamma as with Dromicia. Two of Bross's boys cut a savanna Mimosa for firewood + found at the top of a dry hollow cavity which opened at the bottom, an animal allied to Doctylopsila
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L.23 P.12 is more probably a member of that genus. The specimen (male) is small compared to most D. I have seen it has several characters noted by me before: The 4th finger of the hand is relatively short, the digits measuring respectively 7, 11, 14, 20, and 11x to the web; the forearm 25 mm. If the tail beneath is prehensile. This shows not only in the cross folds of the tail skin but when tight it the animal was still alive and crooked the top of the tail around my finger. The pattern of the variegation of the tail [illegible] conforms with my recollection of D. t. kataini from Orinoco. I could not make the eyes shine with my flash light. A peculiar tubercle containing bone or cartilage at the base of each hand, whiskers clipped short and some with gummy substance on them. Tongue quite protrusible. Drawing of musculature of Dactylopsila S. Inferior aspect gland just after shaving 1 Same glands dissected apart 2 pettorealis major 3 4 Style mandibular removed to show 5 masseter stylohyal hyoglossus geniohyal -glosso hypoglossal nerve sternohyoid sternomastoid jugular v. slip continuing to dorsal tip of scapula [illegible] gland Sub-max gland cut muscle duct part of submax.gland cleidomastoid Thyroid? clavicle stylo substiitutes hyoid cartilage
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L. 23. P. 13. Of the muscles drawn in the sketches on the previous page, the outstandingly peculiar one is the extensor slip of the hyo-glossus, backwards and upwards beneath the cleidomastoid to insert on the dorsal angle of the scapula. This slip (one on each side) draws first hyoid and then the tongue backwards, and is probably directly related to the extensile tongue. Sent the boy out to collect this p.m., and saw them 68 additional traps (many traps especially) for the small Phascolus. Just at six o'clock several locals were watching Rand sketch the head of a canowary. Suddenly there was a gabling of unintelligible talk over at the shore, + every bushman slipped out of camp to the canos like a fleck. It turned out that a strange canoe had been sighted at the other end of the lake. Ten minutes later they were back again; the canoe turned out to be one of their own after all. Sun, Sep 6. The weird-looking sketches beside are intended to represent front and top views of a Vesperuleonide bat, frood this morning by Brown in a leaf some 6 feet above the pond. It resembles me more if Reebucks. The tragus is long, nearly pointed; the rhinarian small but prominent; the nose glands very large & orange yellow in color. There is a large fronted pit between them. The little Phascolus I which we've been getting quite a series lately seems defined to inhabit the edge of the swamp, at least here. Take pictures of a lot of the locals this a.m. One goes with about 40 of them in it. A lot of singles + some small groups. A young D Coccus this morning,
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"Sakis" were painted & decorating themselves with white, yellow & red paint this pm preparatory to dancing tonight. Their dance consists walking slow with the knees stiff but at the time of drums & chanting I'm not going out tonight but will note down some gotten chants. (Later). Sat a while lot of dance chants. They consist of a couple of tabs endlessly repeated. Mon Sept 7. 4 Phascogale, 4 R. machyphimus, 1 Melomys musculus, + 1 Disodon were taken in traps. -ovary sketch of reproductive tract of Phascogale. The second female Ph. had six young of quite large size. -bladder (photo graphed). Tuesday, Sept 8. Traps yielded 6 mammals - 4 Phascogale, 1 Rattus, 1 Disodon. In p.m. one of the traps brought in a ? Phelogen with one young one in pouch. After the adult had been skinned I dissected the neck muscles to see whether the hypo- -scapular muscle which I found in Dactylopsila was present. I found it easily, thh not notably developed as in that genus. Wed. Sept 9. Quite heavy rain during night, and a shower just at dawn. Only 4 mammals in traps, many of which had been snapped by the rain - Phascogale, 2 Rattus macchypimus, 1 Melomys musculus. This afternoon busy patching up holes in a canoe preparatory to putting on outboard or it so as to be able to paddle safely all over the lake. Then. Sep 10. Five small mammals in traps; lots of Wallabies & a Cuscus brought in by locals. Went in early a. on coast, and most right down on the
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water. The SE wind soon prevailed however the weather cleared. Heavy showers in mid-afternoon, light rain into the evening. Fri., Sep. 11. Fair. The little willowy whist lark shot earlier died this morning of unknown causes. In traps: 2 Phaeogale, 4 Rattus, 3 Melmyx musculus. The canoe is getting its outrigger put on this morning, so probably we'll change trap-line tomorrow. The outrigger is quite ingenioulsy devised (see photo.) and a light deck has been built on the canoe which gives ample space for stretching out if we want to do so. Just reached my 200 mammals for this camp today. The recent rains have had their effect on the forest: many trees are covered with new pink foliage (leaves in the tropics often are pink when first expanding), and more and different insects are coming to the light at night. My rain cannot have been severe however, as the lake level, which is that of the river continues to fall. It is about 3 feet lower than when we arrived 23 days ago. Picked up some butterflies in p.m. Sat., Sept. 12. Picking up traps this morning for transfer to new canoe to NW end of lake. Boys only got back from the job at 10 o'clock. Refind that lake has risen 6" - many traps were submerged. Catch: 1 Melmyx musculus, 1 Phaeogale, and 1 female Hydromys. I'm especially pleased to get the last, as it gives me the summary formula for the species (0-2=4). Had just finished measuring the above when "Uncle" (one of the Sube's) came in with another Hydromys (?) killed by the dogs on their island. It lacks a hint fur but is otherwise OK. After an early lunch we (the 4 boys + I) started out in our outrigger canoe with 200 traps on board for the 3rd day of Lake Daw Limbe. Setting proved rather slow - good places hard to find. So, as I had to get back at 5 for radio I got only 150 traps out. We came back thru the usual afternoon squall. Sunday, Sept. 13. Fair. Have radio with Charlie this morning, + also with Packford. As might have been expected when traps were moved into forest all catch fell off to two specimens: a terrestrial Melmyx and a second species of the same genus. Rita shot a half-porn cassowary!
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L23 P16. Failed to raise Orville yet no news from Archbred: Rand is going west through the swamps for a few miles. will stop for several days. Then goes for one night only. Do not consider it worth while to go down there myself but am sending one of my boys with 50 trips for a few days. Monday, Sep. 14. Only one specimen from tropics: Rattus rungeri the fruit rat which though I felt sure it must be here I had not yet taken. It had had all its "innards" devoured by some predator (probably a Kite). Boren & Rand both left when I got back, so sent my boy on by extra boat (with two left behind by Rand). Rand & Boren with their tents & gear went in two big canoes paddled by seven or eight Sukis. Healy & I are "holding the fort" here. I now redraw my plan of the lake (at least its western end, see p. 3, this letter). Savanna [illegible] Coconuts Outlet Outlet. Swampan Camp Bamboo (camp of Sukis) CAMP VILLAGE Swampan Forest Says Forest Teeter area Trapping done here Forest
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L.23.P.17 It got looking more more rainy. About 4 o'clock the rain began & the wind shifted to the west. We had a regular down pour till 5 or so. Tues. Sep. 15. Heavy Rain mostly th night. The lake up a foot more rising still. Sorry for Braz & Reed out in the savanna. Their quarters are pretty cramped out on the savanna. There isn't able to do a thing. This morning it is still raining. Looks as they there would be an early shift if seems to NW this year. Yet it is almost equinox, so why not. Radio tonight (5 hrs). Huly afraid he will be detailed to Orville Camp after he finishes with us. The Ronald's sails on Saturday (1972). Thursday afternoon all details to be settled up with Archbold. Braz back tonight. Reports the place where Rand is as flat, low over soil - rather swampy. He put a list of nut plants but Rand didn't much in birds. Renemore found nothing in the more traps, but then the rain spoiled things any way. In the traps been a young Warhops. Wed. Sep. 16. Last night after midnight heard a steady peep - peep - peep down by the boys' quarters. Thought it might be the survivors baby caracau in trouble. Instead found that the noise came from a small tree & created a pair of eyes. The eyes vanished as a furrin bat took flight, soon to resettle in a tall tree. It appeared to crawl on top of the leaves - but I caught eyes & brought it down. Also some of the tree. This morning shows it to be a small species of Pteropus and the title to be Xanthostemon (Myrtaceae) in flowers. The flowers are small & thick, clustered closely & I am pretty sure the bat was feeding upon the flowers. Heavy rain in the evening. Starlight when I went out after the bat. Overcast this morning. Tork Sorrow & Aria with 1150 traps recent took one owl to the savanna. The only part of it is the edge of the valley where there is a definite drainage. No center wild
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formerly was the driest part is now very wet at L23 p.18. high on account of the lack of rain off. Healy went by canoe to pay a visit to Rand this morning. when the Suki canoemen came back they had brought down old dried skins of wallabies, not savanna but scrub wallabies, and the curious thing is that most of the skins had skulls in them, the skulls apparently cleaned of their meat by ants or dermestics. I bought the lot- 2 stocks of tobacco for them with skulls, one for a skin lacking a skull. - On noting them on things turn out to be seven bills. The series contains six Dorcopsis and five Macropus bunnii, close mimics. To compensate for getting Dorcopsis (new to the collection) the skulls are mis-matched so all skulls sole skins will have to be treated as representing separate individuals. Thus Sep. 17. Last night we had quite a disturbance. At nearly 10 o'clock one of our trip came to say that a Suki woman had been bitten by a death-adder, but that the snake had bitten two dogs first. The dogs were already dead; and they were bringing the woman over for us to look at. Well we got out the snake-bite outfit and antiseptics etc in readiness. When they came we saw an old woman supported on either side by a bushman, 4 about ten other men following behind. She was covered from head to foot with wood-ashes, whether for pleasure (before being bitten) or as a "cure" I could not learn. She had been bitten along the inside face (adjoining the next finger) of the index finger of the left hand. Punctures were barely visible but the back of the hand was a bit c swollen. I opened the finger with a hard nick slit (one each side, parallel to the artery) and blood flowed fairly freely. Then rubbed in permanganate crystals. Next we gave her a good shot of rum- to stimulate her. Her pulse remained quite strong and only a bit slow. The ligature which
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we (Bress + D) had put on directly she came had been released once & when we retightened it we told the men to walk her up & down a bit. They walked her alright, but straight to a canoe back to the island. So as I couldn't let her stay there with a tourniquet tight on her arm there was nothing to do but he rowed across after them & took the thing off. When I got to there I found her in a fairly warm hut & with pulse string & rather faster (perhaps due to the sun). Told her to lie down & go to sleep. The dogs had already been buried they said. Why? This morning she is said to be quite alright. The snake was not killed. Twelve mammals in the traps: 3 Phascolarctos, + Melomys musculus, 5 Rattus leucopus (all from the savanna). Both from the 60 traps in the front. Am making up only six, including the Phascolarctos. Some were obviously caught yesterday. Went down about 11 o'clock with the Sakis who were going to Rand's camp to fetch Healy back. Three big canoes, the one was in very wide enough to put one of our folding chairs into. Crews of 6 or 7 Sakis in each canoe. They put their backs into paddling & we slipped along at close on 5 miles per hour. I took some pictures of them at it. The way leads over pass through a forest & has been used so much lately that the swamp grass is beaten & churned by paddling that there is not a narrow lane 3 feet wide (see photos.) Found Rand's camp Kakati, a rather poor place - low & wet though among trees. He has found a nest of one of the birds of paradise. The place was alive with mosquitoes. Walked out into the wet savanna. Lots of sun-dew & fiddle-leaf plant there. Signs of pig & wallaby. My boy Kandovic had 10 mammals there, but nothing
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L.23 .P.70 different from this camp. No birds seen either, but lots of new plants for Brass. Had lunch there ; then Healy + I returned in p.m. for radio set at 5 o'clock. Saw that one of our Sukei crew had converted a strip of band-iron (for boxes) into a belt. In the evening just before supper fruit bats came in quantities to the flowering Xanthostemon trees, growling & squawking at each other up there. They were apparently representatives of 3 distinct species. We collected 6 of them for more tomorrows night. Fri. Sep. 18. Heavy rain in night, fair today. Besides the six bats ; a Rattus and 2 Phascopelus in traps. Brass found an interesting species of ants on one of his plants. All on one small leaf were about a dozen workers, 4 or 5 winged sexual individuals, one larva. When the leaf was tapped or even fruit touched each worker went through a sort of dance, tapping the leaf rapidly and audibly with its abdomen. Others all were vibrating the leaf became quite noisy. We had hair-cuts this morning, Healy presiding. In p.m. Healy maybe took 10 fruit bats over by Brand too late to make them up. Then we set for more rattles. Sat. Sep. 19. Traps: 3 Phascopelus, 1 Rattus luciolus, 1 Isodon. A busy morning skinning rats. In middle of morning a procession of locals came up from the landing place, carefully carrying something, several something wrapped in the big sputters of palms. They proved to be 3 spying - ant-eaters for one of which I did about a hatchet. So I found out 3 fatcats. Brand + Brass got back to camp this p.m. Brand carried 3 more fruit bats shot last night. Two common ones were badly fly blown + I discarded them. The third was in good shape. Radio news that the
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"Donald S." left Messly for our lake at 11 a.m. So we'll probably get back about the end of the month. Swine swam out two antelopes this afternoon (one split escaped during the night). The weather has freshened considerably & this evening is almost chilly. Mon. Sep. 21. Equinox. A clear cool night + no fruit bats flew. We staged a digging exhibition by means of the spiny anteater. She animal just roamed about for a while, occasionally pushing its strong thin slender muzzle like a plowshare straight into the ground. For a long time it would not dig in, & at length I started to cut a little groove in the ground to see if the animal would dig there. Apparently all it needed to start it was the sound of my digging, because it at once started to go down beside an old stump. Baring the ground laterally with its front feet + probing + pushing with its head it started to go down at about this angle: = pound each. We could hear smell roots being snapped as the creature put on pressure with its strong neck muscles. As it dug, the whole surface of its body rippled under its armor of shives with the muscular effort it put forth. Took photos. Tues. Sep. 22. Shot one fruit bat last night. They seem to have deserted the trees almost here. The flowers are now fully open, & I think it likely the bats prefer the opening buds. Anyway I've put about 35 bats out of the Xanthostemon trees so far. Walked out into woods for few miles this morning. Dark brown termites moving free everywhere; one lot comprising thousands of insects came down the trunk of a very large tree, traveled for about 25 yds along sticks, over & under lesser roots and finally went up another even larger tree. About half of the termite were carrying what like a little pellet of chewed-up wood, or perhaps pollen in their jaws. Also saw several pond skates in a tiny puddle about a foot across, & no fish near. Couldn't catch them they h because they flew too free. Found pile of Rand's boys collect films for stuffing birds from the still nests of a Palm damson. Each nest is about 4 feet long + the diameter of a
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"old fashioned woven cotton rod. It is stuffed of P. Park then split into small strips about half the thickness of a bath. These strips are soft & sappy but contain a tough fiber. They are pulled through a loop of hard wire which strips away the pulpy parts of leaves only the fiber. Wed. Sep. 23. Rain last night. Barometric lower. 12 mammals in traps but all common. Went down take to inspect days care being made by lizards. (photos). Our radio seems quite out of commission for sending, & I'm afraid the windings of the armature of the generator are burnt out. We can still receive, of course. Thursday, Sept. 24. Fair. No rain at night. 10 mammals in traps: 1 Squirrel, 4 Rattus, 1 Melomys, 4 Plesopogon. The last seems to be foraging and the reproductive steps both females had extremely minute pouch you yesterday we told you of my small girl & one had them nearly ready to leave the pouch (i.e. the young in earlier breeding cycle). The Squirrel had also a couple my small young one in pouch. Very heavy rain in afternoon. Messages from Mawley for Healy at 5 p.m. Could not acknowledge them of course. Friday, Sep. 25. Fair after yesterday's storms - Braun awkwardly here for up to like to a startling place where they will spend one night. Only four mammals in traps with particular in storing of news. Sat. Sep. 26. Again northwest wind. Neither day Healy wanted to buy a box some arms for the local people. He told he meant to talk to them about it. The repeat any other this remarked "you'd better bring just me. Some people can't see there is to know about laws & animals. Why do they they get pains they all used law & armor themselves" 16 mammals in traps. Both Plesopogon and Squirrel are in a new breeding cycle. Saved sent back Jane & Plesopogon in hope of finding embryos later.
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L-23 p-3 Sun. Sep. 27. Grisville announced by radio that their plane will come in here on Wednesday, hoping that the "Ornitho" will have arrived. This morning one Phascogale alive, now in the "live-traps" which set not yesterday. A Phascogale for its tail bitten by the trap but is otherwise uninjured. It creeps quickly along the bottom of a box and with difficulty climbs the angle between adjoining sides. If caught too, walks with hind foot widely splayed out. Pawses often with one or other fore foot raised off floor. Sits up readily on hind legs while looking up towards top of box. Makes faint noise between a squeak and hiss when frightened. Springs wire between a squeal and hiss when frightened. Springs itself, lengthens and snaps directly at finger or other object brought near it. Goes thrashing movements if muddle with fore feet. Wraps lower half of tail with mouth. Repeatedly jostles its nose into small holes in floor of box. Bites at injured tail. Scratches with hind foot. Mon. Sep. 28. In traps 3 Melomys musculus, and in live-traps one young Phascogale. The young Phascogale being uninjured acted somewhat differently from the one caught yesterday by the tail. It latter was allowed to get away. This specimen is a male and about 2/4 grown. That very tiny it does exceedingly aggressive and will sit upright on its hind legs and the base of its tail, watching and hissing as you bring your finger down onto it. As the finger approaches the Phascogale springs its own straight in the air, clings on with its front paws after biting furiously. Its ears can be coiled or folded back like those of Gramina. It folds them and partly closes its eyes while it bites. This specimen was caught in a 5-pole practice can dented so that the top is level with the ground, and baited with combination bait. Spent the whole morning working over the power supply of the radio but got nowhere. Heard VHW3 (Grisville) asking Grisley whether he still had a speed. With us, finally said he had not heard us for ten days. No wonder! The Phascogale supplied with an upright piece of wood when it doesn't jump, will climb down squirrel-fashion. Not in to say it revolves the hind feet and which tailing downwards, clings with its thick claws. This evening a good uproar over cattle native camp on the island. It turned out eventually that one of the men wanted to get married to a young girl but because she was so young her father objected. The entire community seemed inclined to take sides, but after some 15 minutes of exacted talk things died down. Brown sawp the dry grass in which wallabhis live is Pollinia
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Tues. Sep. 24 - Today's interesting feature was a female Melampus nuccali couple in alibi with two well-pruned young adhering to the breast of guppies. The mums were kicking & dashing about but the young 'stayed put'. The young have hair already and their bodies are about 3 1/2 inches long. They coil their tails about me another slightly. Not Ratten's not just breeding season and a number of it or 1/2 pruned specimens are being trapped. Today's catch: 1 Plangal, 3 Rattus bucky shinin. 1 P.M. Just heard the engine of the 'Ronald S' - much cheering by our boys and police. Got off very acceptable mail on board. Checked stock in pm. No radio news. Wed. Sep. 25. Busy packing specimens & jelly ready to shift camp tomorrow. Put all my stuff on board this afternoon. At 2 o'clock much excitement as the motor of Lord Williams' plane was heard. She came down easily swell with the lake and we moved out, followed by a whole fleet of canoes to welcome her. Campbell the pilot and Williams who is running the upper St. R undertaking were on board. They brought bad news for Joe Healy - a particularly raw deal - he is to stay behind with four police and be flown back up river to 'protect' the Lord Williams property at Oroville Camp. Meanwhile his wife has just arrived in Dava from Port Moresby in anticipation of his arrival with us back in Dava in a few weeks time. The poor lad is feeling exceeding sore. And he had really no time to think things over or Williams got his mail (handed up on the 'Ronald S.') and took off again soon. The plane tried dragging her anchors but that was somehow OK. The locals are having a great time. Lots of fun & things going spare. They walk about with old cartridge boxes & fruit this sling-like variety bags from strings or fur straps over their shoulders. Thursday, Oct 1. While they were being loaded I went over to the village once more and shot another bunch of photos of the people there. My shots yesterday were all duds because the film came loose off the roller & was not wound through.
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L.23, P.24. We set away at 9 o'clock. The water was forced the propeller a number of times & we did not get away for the mouth of the canal until just 12 o'clock. Everill Junction was passed at 12.45. At 2.30 about 10 miles below the mouths of the Stocklaw (Everill Junction) we found lots of fruit bats laying in the low trees then fringing the river. We stopped & collected some. Some higher tumbled into the river. Stopped by a bank about 8 feet above water level - a dryish place with grass & bamboo. But about 40 traps set out there. Mosquitoes fierce. Brown picked up some plants. BOTH this bank and the trees where the bats were collected are on the left shore of the river. Friday Oct. 2. Put the boys ashore to pick up traps early (not in truth), & set away to an early start at 6 o'clock. Ellengowan Island point 8.30 a.m. Capt "Dredge" sketch maps (see laym). 8.45. Fair sized Suki camp on left bank about a month up creek about 40-50 feet wide. Tried to photograph. Home within sides; not right down to ground. Canoes came out & tried to trade bird of paradise plumes. 11.15 Just below Cassowary Island a large tad root in fresh water mangrove. We over ashore & put in of them. Staged they sank very quickly, did quite well to stay of foot after shot down for more than about half a minute. 12.45 Large village on high wet bank on right bank I run. Village about 18 years old judging by age of coconut there. Not many people. We gave a try to canoe & who wanted to go a few miles. 1.15 Passing Trinal Island (on left). 1.30 Another settlement several houses, two very large, of which one had a yacht shaped roof with curved pitching. That village also on high bank. Tidal island visible ahead. 2 p.m. Passed between end of Tidal Island. 3 P.M. Passing Alligali Island. 3.15 a second island. Thousands of flying foxes in Alligali Island.
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L.23, P.25. Sheet #6 (upside down) Start #5 (upside down) Sheet #4 Sheet #8 Sheet #2 Sheet #1 This series of sketches is taken from the page of diagrammatic design made on 8x11 paper by "Jack" noted captain of the "Penelope S" during his trip up river to get in at Lake Darimbu. Last week of Sept, 1736. Note: Two Island make up "Alligator Island". Gent. P.27 a = Three Sandstone prints on one of which we shall make camp.
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L 23 p. 16 Cleveland for the night in mid-river at about 5.30 p.m. Engine running a bit hot. Four out of the six female fruit bats each with one embryo. Sat Oct 3 Away at 6.20. A definite tide here, as I saw the ship swing to the change of flow just before dawn. 6.30 Passing D'Albertis Island Vegetables all along here heavy forest. Bat's only a couple of feet above water level. 7.30 In middle of Fairfax Islands. 8.10 Pand Inner and Sturt Islands, the last of the Fairfax islands aggregate. There are three high banks (15-20 feet) on the north shore (which we are following) one even with the middle of Sturt; another opposite the lower tip, and a third on a point about 2 miles. All three have large clumps of bamboo on them. We watched their moving at the middle place and cut exploratory tracks in various directions. I went up-stream as far as the first bluff near which is a gently rising forested ridge going up to about 100 feet. After lunch took Brown & Rand to see it. We may camp there, but decided first to look at the third and lowest place. When we got back to the boat place found the tide had risen about 8 feet in an hour and in the shallower parts of the river (the starboard side) I can come up as a tree. Next day about 3 o'clock we moved down to the new place + I cut straight in while B & R went left & right respectively. Hard reed + another for a couple of hundred yards, then gently rising ground to a ridge. The inflow of tide continued till a quarter to five when we began to warp amid our moving. We discussed the possibilities of the several places and eventually decided upon the one I had found in the morning. Tomorrow we shall go up there and start to get camp set up. The location is good, right on the river and a short story here day & night. We shall probably dismiss the "Rand St" the day after tomorrow. Sun Oct 4 Started clearly for camp on highest point, even with the middle of Sturt Island. A very valuable find by a boy sent to cut wood -- a new mouse, probably of a new form. The boy's tale is that as he looked about he saw an
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L. 28 P. 27, Small hole about 30 feet from the ground in a tree about 6 inches thick. He tapped on the tree with his knife, put his ear to the bark and could hear that something was moving about inside. He cut the tree down and chopped open the hole where he found the monee. The animal is in almost the size of a four melon, is colored fawn above and has the ventral hairs while to the lower the white running upontile cheeks about to the eye, and forward to conceal the roots of the vibrissae. Ear tending to the pattern of that of Loretzomys, then less pronounced; eye very large and prominent; head short and broad as in Loretzomys and Pogonomys; tail with the terminal inch prehensile dorsally (Note: Thoma's remarks on Chirromys), coarsely scatted? forefoot with large nail on first digit; hind foot threaded across the distal end of the metacarpals, the toes only moderately elevated the first too short, not opposable; genital parts small; sex ?; mammary formula, 1-2 = 6 (as Loretzomys); vibrissae long. Just winding this letter up now for inclusion with the mail outwards.
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L. 24. P. 1. Sunday, Oct 4th. P.M. Finished mail in the outside even though the boat will not sail until tomorrow. So my living quarters simply put up, leaving the making of the floor until tomorrow; and will sleep ashore tonight. Oiler is a nuisance here. No bore this afternoon, the moon being now just full. The tree is said to occur only at "full" and "new" moon. Further data on the Wilky young (L. 23. P. 13); I gave them bits of the top bark of "Swamp Mahogany" in a 5-pel. beverage tin. The old mouse made a sort of nest in it and a couple of holes where she went in & out. We had the tin in the center of the "Roald". One afternoon I saw a Wilky out of the tin & climbing around on top the pear, and a bit later heard one of the young ones squeak, so thought "just time" to takeup & caught one of the youngsters as saw that its eyes were just beginning to open. I might both would probably die. When I got close by her, I lifted into the back & to my astonishment the less the old mouse in the tin with another young clinging on me more. Either she had gone back into the tin or there was another Wilky's stood away on the "Roald's". Monday, Oct 5th. A good night ashore. Getting my fruit fats dry as quickly as possible. They are rather tumbleweeds things to get dry. My boys making the floor of the tent now. Quite a lift of excitement: a cassowary was seen swimming, about 50 yards out. Then was a perfect fusillade from the boys' guns and the ship's dinghy put off after it. She silly fellows mistook for slipping a wood over old necke, hit it on that head with an oar. Before they could do anything more it sank and was not seen again. Still getting camp put in order. A short week in front. Sort forest. A decent nest in hole in Bontox tree. Lots of fireflies at night. Tuesday, Oct 6th. Last night after putting out the light in my tent fly & getting into bed I saw the ceiling absolutely dotted with small fireflies. They flashed rapidly - one third of a second or so - and there must have been scores of them. It was like a sky in miniature. Supposed they had flown in earlier, attracted by the light. There seems to be no old seepage on the main bank near us. We gave the loop the afternoon off. They have been going hard.
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L Oct, 19. Steadily since we came ashore. Set is traps myself. Wed. Oct. 7. Wca fair. The bird boys shot the Dorcopsis, males, one adult one rather young. This is the first time I have seen D. in fresh condition (those at Davi under had been killed by the locals & were bringing them to us. They have long heads with the snout rather blunt at the end. The tail is heavy and rather short with the tactile (in fact) surface unpigmented. The hair of the lower parts is soft & nearly white and that of the inside of the limbs very short. Scrotum while; genital orifice rather prominent. Haids blackish grey, with the fringes giving a pied effect - the 3rd & 5th block, the others while in one hand while in the other they are black. Hind foot + toes black. The characteristic reversed set of the hair shows from withers to occiput. Cut new trail to west for short distance but much care & poor hard. Returned & started out up river ridge. Front limb trail which follows front left, then right. Apparently the following sketch represents the actual one we know it at present: Sago Swamp Sago Sago Sago Camp Fly River (N. bank) Stuart Island (crossed) Ridge Ridge point where grounded. be caught in a creek and shot for a while. Along the trail with of the big sago swamp (when I went there a mo) The native sign becomes more plentiful, and the limb track becomes more defined. There is a 3- pole bridge over a small dry gully. In about a few miles farther would bring me to a village. Another Dorcopsis brought in this afternoon. Rand got a beautiful green snake with pure white spots along the back yesterday sailing the river we got a few small fish & prawns and a sea-snake, the last a real find.
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L. Mt. P. 3 During the mornings walk saw a large cassowary. Also we found three pigeons' nests, two of which were to few sticks laid on the tips of fan palm leaves. The sequel to Helmys muscalis is that she did learn to climb in and out of the kerosine tin. Unfortunately she got caught in a trap. So I now have two orphan Helmys in my hands. They have their eyes open now & squeak loudly at night. They are learning to eat combination bait but they run quite quickly away the dark in their tin. They are now 55 + 50 mm. in length (least wholly). Their sexes (I think) are ♂+♀. Then Oct. 8. Took long walk down min at 6 o'clock. Saw a Dorcyns. Then shot yesterday had their stomachs full of finely chewed bambro cane I (the small cane), and contained quantities of round worms. This mornings catch got: a Helmys with a starkly contrasted color pattern; a small, short-tailed forestal Helmys; Two spp (?) of Rattus of the nigrinus group. The Helmys appears very closely allied to the species I took at Rome. It is different from the ground-living species of the upper Sly, which is much larger. Last Tuesday Franks VIG sent me a page & a half of instructions as to what one just be using with the set & what to do about it. He was sending for nearly twelve minutes. The upshot is that I was able to send things to him once more this evening, that I have eliminated these condensers & patched up a fused resistor and lowered the voltage for the generator. There is no "voice" any more, but its not needed. Just lets about 6.45 to 7 pm came our camp, apparently attracted by the stray light from the practice lanterns. A few Conifer as well. The two young Helmys died this morning. The fruit here is of rather dry type, making a fairly good campy but having little value for the other try states of the smaller bambro Schizostachya.
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Nov 24 P.4 Noz easy to cut this bambus is mean to go from its habit of falling over clump after clump elting on its next-door neighbor. A large fruit tree which seems to be characteristic is the tree-cotton Bombax. Loopy vines are numerous little fan-palms which abound are used by a small pigeon perched with the tip of the head yellow as a platform for its nest. The terrain is irregularly ridgy, the ridges jump up to 100 feet. The beach everywhere seems to be a fine silty sandstone (2 species) on which from 10 to 30 feet of residual clayey matter rests. The subsoil closes to be identical to that of Daviengk. The tides are very irregular. The highest tides (at full moon and new moon) show an rise of at least 10 feet. For close on 10 hours water drains out the air level slowly falls. Then for three hours the tide comes in, the level of the river may very rapidly. At highest tides the water rushes up as a breaking wave or bore. Even the bou then ceases to trickle at camps due to the great depth of the water close by us. On the Mondo side of Stuart Island where there are many sand bars—the true beaches. Next thing I the S.E trade wind has quite a lot to do with the time of arrival of the tides. We doubt two the flooded promised are formed when we shot the bat on Casaway Island was due to the influence of the tide. Stuart Island is heavily forested or densely fringed with Calamus. It is much nearer to the north banks than to the south banks of the Jh R. Fri Oct 9 Markets in Trip 3: Hydermp, Kellars, Delmps mixed new lot of salt, wrapped fruit bits. Cut track up-line this morn—continuing the trail of yest. morn. First along river bank which is quite right up nearly level with the west end of Stuart Island. A muddy tidal creek
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Then join the fly R, a native cut track leads L. No. P. 8' most of the way there. At the junction of the creek with the fly I found an old native clearing. And half way there a tiny garden with a few banana trees in it. Cleared the north trail of small side + overhead tracks for going about at night. Back in camp from Bram's bog bed obtained a fine Distotcherus, in cutting down a tree. It is very Pteropus- like. Distributions tail with tips prehensile. No flying membrane Syndactyly of the hind foot. Small naked ears. The snout is thick & well developed - opens forward - had one large pouch you carried parallel with the others body. Mammals (Medians). He gave me with lead over ears - just getting downy hair on head and neck. Tail segmented also soles of hind feet slightly at apex of 5th metacarpal. Head & body of pouch young about 5 mm. (Externally; the truncs and other parts of the interior of the pouch bear stiff of long, very soft hair, which project laterally from the head). The submammary gland converging upon a single median teat is placed at the bottom of the pouch near the pubic arch. No epipubic bones, present generally in both &Ε Marsupials, seem to be absent Distotcherus and chest. The musculature of the neck is essentially that of Dactylopsida (L. 2-3, P. 12). Only 5 mm. The tail tips are prehensile. I find no trace of a flying membrane. Eyes large, probably lemming at night. Put out a few mouse traps this p.m. Weather rather stormy - looking. At sundown Rand failed to come in. We learned that he had gone with one boy up the track which I cut this morning. Evidently he left it & went inside away from the right. Boys sent out with lights & instructions to five gun signals report that they heard him answer four miles the bush. It's unlikely he'll get in tonight (10 pm already) but he should make it early tomorrow. It's no fun getting "brushed" - got supplies, and come still, no mosquito net. Got them to VIG successfully this morning. Much. Weekly repeated safely at Orville. Archbold leaves Sydney tomorrow.
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Sat Oct 10. Town (at least my) surprise Band got in at 15 minutes after midnight. He had heard the signal whist of the boys & at last worked his way to them, they fell apart away. He reports them joined into a band of Klondike campers up the creek. Also two tree swamps + 2. Trap line with 2 Rattlers, 1 yr Melmys, 1 Melmy. Spurt among with a trap cutting down them with holes in them. Two Mercurys lunii and 2 Dacypsis trapped in. A good chance to compare these externally very similar wallabies. M[el]gure Meagrus Dacypsis Col. and external characters Relatively brownish grey dark cheeks & stripe A hip stripe Tail white beneath Ear white inside Hair not reversed from withers to rump Feeling relatively long (foot 40 mm.) Girth hind foot metatarsus mm width part 58 mm. Foot relatively long + heavy Tip of tail beneath without enlarged tactile scales Relatively fawnish grey. No cheek stripe No hip stripe. Tail grey beneath. Ear pigmented inside. Hair reversed .... Girth hinders (foot 30 mm.) Girth ... narrow waist part 48 mm. Foot relatively short + slight. Tip of tail beneath with enlarged scales One of the just trap lamps caught fire in the evening. Two traps were fierce. Sun. Oct. 11. Talked to VH W 3. Healy & Police got through day Williams's place to Genville OK! Blue is fat as well. He bit only one of the police. In trap Melmys, Rattlers, 4 two app of Melmys. Just heard a couple of boys singing off "the dance refrain of the Lake Darwin trip" "O'mally Joe The Melmy's taken Oct 9 was trapped at the edge of a tiny tidal creek behind a fringe of fresh water mangrove right on the banks of the Jolly R. beat out "freckling". Found two white fruit bats feeding but could not get their eyes & saw nothing else but five flies.
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Mon. Oct. 12, Cloudy: In traps only one thing of importance: a jumping rat, size of med-sized Melmys, pale dull fawn; underpale, pure white (to sole of foot); a white brow area; muzzle slight; eyes rather small; ears low, much curved around eye axis; forefoot rather long; hand + fingers elegant; hind foot very long & narrowed; tail with distal half white and whole of underside white; mammae, 0-2 = 4; sex ?, rather young. The animal looks like a small Leptomyss. Taken in traps leading from river over top of ridge, Virginia pine, rather low. Pigment of soles on metatarsal joint only. Note: the Ummys like rat # 2956 was taken from large hollow tree on top of ridge. Tree cut down. This p.m., a second Leptomyss was brought in - a fully adult animal, this time, also ?. Mammae in size & number as in Melmys. No analysis. Taken out of a hollow tree lying on the ground in well-drained forest. Tue. Oct. 13. Went out with light to bat the last night. Shot something (probably a bat) but it hung up + I have to go out and look for it today. Weather overcast; looks like rain. Limit proportions of Terrestrial Melmys # 2974 ♀ to be compared with those of Leptomyss. Lelme (ulna) to tips longest fingers, 38 mm.; wrist joint to distal end of radius, 15 mm. Tibia, 32 mm.; Edg from crown, 14 mm. Hind foot (s.c.) 26 mm. Ratios hind foot: in Melmys = 81 %; in Leptomyss = 103 % tibia Leptomyss is a very slender built rat. We have declared a holiday to day. My boys ran traps (Petties + Melmys only) and I have put the entire catch in pickle. Sent two out to get bat. Then no work till 4 o'clock re-hunting. Last night Two bats shot at the flowers on a big Eugenia tree here just been brought in. Both are the Common Pteropus flys St R. For three days we have had high tide at around 3 p.m. Today it reached flood at 3.15 p.m. Also for the past 2 days tides I have been getting higher. The more is almost at full & has lost a quarter, but with "no moon" and the moon + sun pulling together we should again get very high tides. So far the bore has not developed.
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L.47. P.8 Have also been watching the oil on the river. While tide flows strong in and the water is deepening no oil is to be seen but directly the flood point is reached & the current checks oil appears in long streaks on the surface of the river just in front of camp. This to me suggests that the seepage is under with a close to us, the oil will be carried out tonight before it reaches the surface when rising up-hill current is running. Probably it is up rather a bit (say 50 yards). I understand that some company has a very large area under concession at the present time. The county note all about us is a fine-grained sand-stone. (Oct 2,3,4) Sept. 18th The permits shown below have been issued (ex Papua Group) to the Island Exploration Company Proprietary Limited, incorporated in Victoria. I have an idea that permit no. 1 temp to Orion Oil Co. 5°40' 6° 7° 7°42 8° 9° 141° 142° 143° 143°9' 143°9'02° 144° Concession permit no.4 Stickleback Q. 63° 142°53° Concession permit 2. 7°31° Permit no.1. Shy R. Star I. Concession permit no.3 I wonder if Ward Williams Co is not looking for oil rather than gold? Wed Oct 14, A boy came in with three baby turkeys in his hand. Decided to return them to nest & try observe what happened. Best hole in tree with James.
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dark color bark + about 1/2 foot from roots. Hole small; not more than 2 1/2 inches across + went straight in through 3 inches of wood. Built ladder against tree. Had to chop open hole a bit to get at nest but hope that the parent finicky the 3 young there will continue to look after them. The young were taken, I found, from a platform composed of the excrement accumulated over years. There was no attempt at nest construction other than the level platform which was reached by the upwardly sloping entry. The inside of the tree is quite hollow -- a cylindrical cavity about 6 inches diameter. The parent that was probably up inside there. The length of the young ones was already got away in light of feet + body, the other two about 5 or 10 mm. less. Colored dark brownish gray; under parts white; Tail + inner surfaces of limbs slick & a smooth hairless. All still had white wains, the upper ones dangling thus: [sketch] Ears flecked gray + fleshy. Feet slender heavy claws, + already quite sharp. This morning went up river trail to creek. Turned due north along canoe road discount by Plant, a foot wide track through woods where there are three abandoned canoes. Truck leads north along top of ridge, one or two grassy openings, a little cave, one place grown up to briar bushes where heard a rattleby. Two miles from the river came suddenly upon large native house. See below: a few bits of color: [sketch] Signs in red displayed objects in shot there on top + also painted in various ways. The dry + I did not take aim at all + that about included it was deserted when a dog put his
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lead out of the door & looked at us. From that we decided the house is not abandoned. Possibly the people may come in to see us in a day or two, now that they know we have their address. After lunch walked up in woods to see the Uromys tree. I went quickly right half way up my ladder then I heard a strong squeemy up in the hole there-- that the female had returned to the 3 young. Went down & left things alone, as I dont want to frighten her any more. The leaf which I had just in little hole had been removed & dropped to the foot of Ete Tree. Saw native dog in woods east of camp. Ran round up--tried this pm in lost & brought back 2 small sets of different species (and probably different genus, though I have called them Rhinolyphus provisionally) # 2990 which may be Hippolaphus to grayian, has a horse-shoe nose-leaf + is provided with a median gland between nose-leaf + forms which secretes a yellowish waxy substance surrounded by black hairs. The tail is long. # 2991 has bright reddish fur; the ears are short, but have peculiar points at the tip and like (illegible) . The horse-shoe nose leaf is present, but the gland is a hairless, whitish eminence which secretes a yellowish waxy substance. The tail is short. Thurs. Oct. 18. The Uromys experiment has ended rather abruptly. This morning the hole was empty - no trace of the old one or of the three young. Not only that but all of the dry leaves which I scattered in the hole yesterday have been thrown out on the ground. Trapped a big Varanid lizard by a hole at the base of a big tree. Hole 3 inches in diameter and a couple of inches above the soil level. You should have seen the lizard shoot into that opening when I released it from the trees. Smoked 2 sets + a set out of holes in a big tree this a. m. The sets represent a third species of Rhinolyphus (?) The set was a young Uromys. This p.m. yet another set # 2991. This one had the pointed gland greatly developed + nearly erected when picked up,
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Fri. Oct. 16. Load down the river trail as far as the creek about 1/2 miles away. On way back went down on beach where we made our first finding (it was fairly low tide) to have a look at the geology & see if I could find any fossils. weathering product of recent time. bedded, but scarcely consolidated my fine sandstone high tidal mark low tidal marks equally soft sandstones with some shales where beds have slight dip to west. As I read the picture there is a slight break in sedimentation where the beds lying horizontally come in contact with the dipping beds. Both seem to be late Pleistocene or Recent in age, non-fossiliferous, & to contain a good deal of cross-bedding. Whether Lacustrine, marine or aestuarine in origin I have not found out. Suspect marine however. The hills & ditch here [illegible] them are merely the products of differential weathering of horizontal strata of soft shale & sandstone. Picked up the valves, still hinged together, if a fresh water clam. Also what may be a fossil seed (but fine) set in the sandstone left on the beach. (P.S. Not a foal) The topmost layer of the diagram follows the contours of the surface. It is mixed reddish-brown sand clay, almost exactly similar to the subsoil I secured at Lake Davienville. Another interesting bit smoked out of tree this a.m. See cat. # 3005. Sat. Oct. 17. Put on a drive to get the handicart if this place. Its tracks appear in muddy low places close to the river. Setting bs steel traps for it! Also went out for snelling again. Unsuccessful this time treated at least a dozen trees. Brien & Rand picked up some Emballonura bates, apparently the same as at Black Rim, Palmer Junction & L. Davienville. This form I shot a caseaway. He was just walking about in the woods.
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Sun. Oct. 18. No results from trapping for bandicoots. In rod traps 4 Rattus nigro, 1 Trilumys (Turr.) Spart the entire morning building a trap-fence for bandicoots. It consists of a low style fence of parallel poles built up one on the other to a height of 4 or 5 pole diameters, loop-holed at the ground level + a trap placed in each opening. The fence is placed along a stretch of ground, preferably level where signs of bandicoots digging about are plentiful. Ours is parallel to the river and so far is 50 yards long, with six traps in it. We plan to extend it to 150 yards or so. The following is a rough sketch of how it is made. The upright stakes go in pairs on either side of the fence and their tops are lashed together. In the afternoon took some butterflies. New moon tonight: no unusually high tides today. a very large, broad headed lizard 7'6" from nose to tip of tail, shot + brought in by one of our boys. "May have given rise to the stories circulating about tree-climbing alligators". Small native dog wandering about trails. Appears lost + yours a good deal. May be same one I saw at that house other day. Our boys were there today & believe it vacated for weeks a long time now. I'm not so sure. From Oct. 19. Developing is a bit awkward too. The water is so heavily charged with sediment that it must be settled for 2 days + then decanted (notary has figured out how to make a siphon). Temperatures in early morning OK. 67-69. Only 2 cats today. While boys were working on the bandicoot fence I took a good walk along the north trail & learned away to west (the track I followed Oct. 7th) I came at last to the fence found there 14th. This time I approached it from the other side. It is a big log home in partial disrepair - holes in the thatch etc. I am often
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L.24. P. 13 Door at either end. Come through the remains of a rather extensive garden as I drew near it. The E-W ridge all while I traveled was partly in the main divide between the Fly of the Aremaea Basin. Pleasant Ridge to heart along once clear of the mass of arching came at its SE end. Saw a large many & heard another. Later collected some more butterflies, lying In afternoon went out to look at the low wooded area between the canoe road and the small garden half way there. Shot a scrub hen. I learned to day that some if not all of the boys have a distinctive sign or mark that he cuts on the bark of trees. He printed out the mark of every the bird boys. So I had him make his (it was Taikendo). His mark is 1/2, the back between the 1 lines being cut out. Temperatures here range between 67° and 88° mostly. Tues. Oct. 20. This morning after measuring the specimens for the boys to skin I went over to the big ridge along the north track & turned east. Found that the ridge gave place to low-ground carrying tall fruit & a tidal creek -- the same I reached October 3rd (see previous letter). Followed down for a way & found a branch entering from the left [the one found by Press on Oct. 3. All right to N+ NE of the ridge is a big swamp. The grandest fence was finished this afternoon. It amounts to 150 yards and has 20 steel traps as furniture. It will probably be days before anything gets caught by it, because things will have to settle down after all the noise & activity that went into making it. Brass went botanizing across on Stork Island this morning. He reports it alluvial & subject to occasional flooding. Wed Oct 21. Breakfast low down at 6 a.m. A curcus (spotted) was shot by Borro this morning. Went up canoe road to native house which I photographed. Had a look inside. The place divided lengthwise into 3 rooms, a door at each end and one or two wider like openings between the rooms. Entries to side galleries by notched piers under there. Some pig-needle hanging up in one gallery. Outside a number of young coconut
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"Tree not more than 3 years old. The road, still a broad cause-way, goes right on behind the trees and a quarter of a mile beyond there is an acreage of tiny shellies each about 6 ft x 6 ft, trailing, and about 20 all told stretched out in a line along the ridge. Two other layer shellies stand between them and the big house. I kept on for about 1/2 mile further; then turned back. The train curved to the west & then back to N again to avoid the head of a gulley. Coming back not a canary. First time I've ever heard its call. Imagine the bottom-most note of an organ lasting for a couple of seconds & spaced a few seconds apart. I could not imagine what could cause the sound. As the boy said, it was "all same flyin' machine". Then Oct 22 The tides seem all mixed up. Yesterday at 6 am. the water was still nearly high, but running out. This morning at the same time it is about half tide and still it is going out. Now it seems to have jumped away stead. Yesterday evening it was high somewhere around 7 o'clock. One of these new moon tides have been small so far____ Fri. Oct.23 Tides small & very irregular. To our surprise, a small tide reaches height just about normal and stayed high for about 3 hours. At 6 pm. it is on the way out once more. Have now 150 mammals of 17 species in this camp. Thursday weather this afternoon. Now a dry pleasant breeze blowing Pant went quickly along the west track this way, thought took 5 mammals, a gummy (shot while running along a root), a pelago the white billed form, (first seen in pond, but climbed to about 8 feet above pond; eyes show well); and a band-eel lacking a tail which has the foot characters and the big snout of that taken at Black River. It appears to be a Perocelis. It was just crossing the trail spied no attention to the light. Sat. Oct 24 Today a new pelago (#3059); also an eching-pun, the first mammal caught by our fence-traps. Late went out burning out bit trees & poking sticks into
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other hollow trees. Took only one bat, similar to a species already seen. Incidentally, I think both the tender happened this morning and the one shot last night by Rand belong to the same species. Only his is old & the other is so young that it has only just lost the milk pins & the 4th molars are not yet up. The strongly marked lumps has again turned up. Sun, Oct. 25'. A third specimen of Lepidomy was trapped today, also a female. It too has the white frontal mark. [illegible] In addition to some Rattus, a young Hydromys was taken, making the 3rd for this locality. It was caught in 1 of the fence-traps. Yesterday p.m. gave us heavy showers followed by cooler temperatures in the evening. A new bat (#3069), one of four (3 escaped) was taken in an old bamboo culm which broke to pieces when the dry shook it. It was the third stemmed, open bamboo, and was growing in fairly open well-drained forest. No specimen caught contained two embryos. Rand went fishing this evening again, returning at 11 o'clock with 3 Memmys, a Rattus [illegible] and 2 Dorcopsis nearby. I've been feeling a bit too weary in the evenings, especially my eyes, to want to go out. Mon, Oct. 26. Fair & clear very hot. The tides are getting bigger, high tide coming about 1 o'clock. Nothing special in traps. I had 30-odd moved into the sago swamps behind camp this morning and a hundred put out any the swamp forest at the head waters of the eastern creek which I visited Oct. 25th. This p.m. got some more lepidoptera. There's thunder brewing this evening. Tue, Oct. 27. Overcast & threatening rain. Today a small Phaeogale the 30th species of graminae for this camp was trapped. I don't know whether it is specifically the same as the one at Darwin. Also got the ? D. macroglossus brunneus. Already shot 5 males. A pair of Cuscuses, a Melomys and a Uromys complete the day's catch. Later another pointed-eared bat from hollow tree. Pat Murphy radio told me this morning there's civil
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L. 24. P. 16. was going on in Spain. In the two specimens ♂ & ♀ of Phelogen maculatus both adult, I note that the epipubis bones of the ♀ are as large again as they in the ♂. Accepting Pteropus and Emballonura, every bat so far taken in this camp has been either picked out or smoked but I follow trees. In their slightly dry-type forest probably 20% of the hardwoods have holes running up the center of the trunk, and quite a large number have round open knot-holes leading to the central shaft used by such mammals as Armory, Melonye and Distochurus. The bats are generally found in trees with much larger openings near the bottom. Wed. Oct. 28. Went “jacking” up the canoe ridge. Shot the small Pteropus I Davidson feeding on the fruit of a Rubiaceae tree about 10 feet from ground; the tailed Microglonys of the coast which was resting at the tip of a frondless palm found. Both bats’ eyes shine well, the former large, the other bright glowing yellow. Also collected things on a vine (thick stand) about 8 feet up; white-breasted Melonye on the nest of a tree; and two Dacypus. The eyes of all shine very like those of things only one slightly brighter. Besides the above I shot two frogs + a gecko. The moon is now 3/4 towards full. One of our old rafts were by on the current this a m. Looks as if they’d had high water at Oroville. My tent-fly is being raided by small black ants. They’ve been getting steadily worse for days despite my efforts to get rid of them. Today the floor is just alive with them. Brown went up river to the heart Fairfax Island. He shot two arboreal Melonye (large) two miles above camp on this side of river. Also he put a large colony of fruit bats (several thousands) on the lower end of the island he visited. The one Melonye was in a Pandanus; the other in a mat of leaves + branches in a tree. Very bright tide to day.
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L24. P. 17 Thurs Oct. 29. Tides getting noticeably higher. The in-rush started at 11:30 - and in two minutes the water had risen 4 feet. Among the usual trapped specimens got a third Eclimpea, a very tiny one, though. The days getting hotter - most afternoons up to 90°. Till the end of our stay (less than a week if now) I am going to take a map in the afternoons and go out with my light shooting at night. Fri. Oct. 30. Last night shot 2 Macropus rufus - rufus wallaby (never here than Dacypsis) and the male of the Drelongs. I took on the 28th. The latter was sitting at the fort of the same tree. It is the black-tailed, white-bellied species with semi-erected hind feet. At 5 mins past midnight heard the rush of the one coming up the river. It passed Stuart Island on the other side, merely swelling the waters on our side very rapidly - and continued around the bend to the south + up past Alligator Island along that north reach. I assume this of course from the progress of the noise + its gradual decrease or increase. At a guess I followed its progress by ear for about 10 minutes. I look for it at that 12:30 to 1 in the middle hours of the daily today. The moon is nearing full. Tides of Rattle A small one appeared far down the river at 12:30 but faded out before it got anywhere near Stuart Island. The water here at camp rose very rapidly however - about 4 feet in the first two minutes. A faint noise from behind Sturt Isl. showed that the rush was breaking slightly on the south shore. It did not compare with the midnight tide however for intensity. Sat. Oct. 31. Out again last night shot 2 Urops of a Dacypsis - one Urops was carrying a nut in its mouth which I can identify as the candle-nut Blewites moluccana. The nut had had a small hole bitten into one end and some of the oily pulp extracted. All around the opening was wet with saliva. The sketch is natural size, and to get up close for the out more of the head at all the pulp is totally Urops without biting shell. It seems likely.
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that the animal holds the rough, knotty L. 24 p. 18 nut in its jaws and scrapes away the pulp with either upper or lower incisors but not both teeth, then licks out the loosened material. The candle nut tree grows commonly here. I have seen hundreds of the metacarpus tough similar holes. It occurs so down to the coast, and at Meladune & Port Moresby, but not up river, according to Bram. I have a fourth specimen of the new leptopus, this time from cane ridge. Two then came from low ground on a post a few above the fresh into high tide mark and the other two dryish forested hill-side. Yesterday Bram saw a small rat make off with a sprigry hopping [illegible] fruit, the tail held high, which correspond to what I expect of the movements of L., judging from the form of the plant limbs & fruit. This morning Bram & I went to the point visited on the afternoon of October 3 to observe the tree, due almost 1.30, and took pictures of it. Found the point marks the place of exposure of about 12 feet of shell-bearing strata, fine sandstone & shales. I could see a clean, an oyster-like shell + spiraled shell every other. Whether they are marine or fresh water molluscs is not clear. The point marks the crest of a slight fold the beds coming up to it with dips of not more than (probably less) 10°. The strike of the fold appears to be WSW - ENE or thereabouts. Due to perplexing the oldest beds exposed (those containing the fossils) are right on the point, as the diagram shows! Strike of ridge ENE W _____________ E Beds to the east though still with slight easterly dip approach the horizontal. They are composed chiefly of shales and lignites with occasional lenses of sand. The fox was disappointingly small. It traveled about 5 miles in 8 minutes or more or less 30 miles per hour. It came early - at a quarter to one. High tide 5 o'clock. Largest moon then on the rising. Seen, Nov. 1. I forgot to mention of the Pottos shot by Bram (p. 18) that he reported the eyes shone rather well. Sorry, though Pottos
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is one of the abundant species here I have not seen its eyes shine, they have seen it by illuminati of the light moving about, but have not. Last night shot 4 joeys and a female bandicoot Echimyidae with two half developed young in its pouch. The animal sat up once on its hunches. Regarding one young Dasyurus which was trapped in alive yesterday (the mother had been shot) was still to be classed as "pouch young". However when found in the works, and after the mother had been shot, the joey had to over at dawn. In camp when it was taken out of the pouch and placed on the ground (accident ally Rand White was present) it hopped all the way across the outside of the workshop & had again to be caught. When I saw it later it was curled up in the pouch of the dead parent with head, front legs + tail showing outside, and had very little life left in it! Its battery seemed almost near done. Photographed it. Just talked by wireless to Orville today. Healy is wiring for provisions, re. for six months. Tough luck! Monday, Mar. Last night collected a thong + bandicoot. The latter was one of three seen. That small eyes of caught right by the light show reddish yellow. Also saw a wallaby and two others heard. In the middle of the night [illegible] a disturbance: two breeding dogs sneaked into camp and chewed off a few feet and tails of wallabies. It was dright moonlight too. I guess they carried off a fairly heavy dose of carcase each. The Echimyidae shot last night has reddish underparts and 3 pairs of nipples; that taken the night before is white beneath and has 4 pairs. Possibly a real difference which may tie in with the small-toothed form I described from the second area. This brings up, via Rand shot another of the large Melomys similar to those collected by Bass—collected on Oct. 26th. It was in a Pandalura with legs fleeing insects! Mm
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The two collected by Brann was also in P.20. And Brann bought back a male flowering tree which looked not unlike a whist corn cob in its wrappings, which had had the end eaten off. Just more of the small bat # 2994 (6th F's) bought in by Lea who smoked them out of a big tree. The assemblage 3114, 5, 6, 8-9 (leopards, two small bats, and two species of Helmys) was obtained by smoking a very large tree. Tue. Oct 3. Photos showing the bat Doropsis (p. 19) have come out well. The position in which it holds its tail (like a jug-handle) is characteristic. The tip of the tail seems to be used almost as a finger. The Helmys referred to above, Brann tells me, were collected from the differences of two separate species of Pandonus, Brann's from his # 8052, Rend's from Brann's # 8138. The truly early contained a very long slender parasitic worm. But bats from hollow trees today: 3 females of # 2990 each with young clinging to them came from one tree; the other three specimens (# 3005) with dry, acutely pointed ears, came from three separate trees. One of the young # 2990 (a Rhinolophid or Hipposiderid - I don't know which) was alive and uninjured. I got a few pictures of it clinging to a post. It pulls its tail curled upwards & dorsed; but it makes a chattering sound (very faint of course) with its mouth. As in # 2994 and 3005, these female bats had also specialized osses in the lower abdominal region, huffy white in color. Probably they constitute a family character. Wed. Oct 4. The boat is due today & practically everything is packed & ready to go. Heavy shower this morning. She turned up about 9 o'clock & we got loaded about 5 but anchored in the river close to Stant Island for the night. The current was so strong during loading that she dragged anchor twice, plus a quarter of a mile downstream each time (for she could be stopped). So we had to
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L. 26. P. 21. keep the engine turning over for most of the day. Squalls + rain added somewhat to our troubles. Then Oct. 5. Did not quite make Madiri before dark & the tide set so strongly up- wind against us that we had to anchor & wait for the low tide in the small hours of the morning. Played the victrola most of the evening. Gordon, captain (retired from a sea-going clipper). and Twyman, missionary acting as chief engineer were in the boat! Gordon is quite a young chap & is in charge of his Cowling's plantation at Traders, but of course rents the Lordville for her. Mrs C. is now at another plantation of hers on the Island Milne at the south side of the mouth of the Fly. Fri. Oct. 6. Had breakfast ashore with Gordon at Madiri. We saw Miss Smith, missionary, whom we met this m way up last May. The other young lady missionary who was there is now married! She & her husband live across on the Barre river. Set the radio up + had a talk with Pat Inverly at scheduled time (9.50 a. m). Now we're crossing to the north shore to find a camp for Brose & Rand to stay for two weeks. Reached a long- known village called Waritodoro a bit after noon. Found the
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Line P. 22. He walked out along a muddy track running due N. for about 30 minutes to help on tour without finding any improvement in the country. Exposed to the sun at this cold place is countrywork — perfectly level beds, of very soft from sandstone of rather fine texture. No fossils, but ferric concretions plentiful. Ruins of village (a
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L. 24, P. 22 a Drysdale and Mr. Twyman, all missionaries. It was nice to get under civilized conditions once more. Mon. Nov. 9. Clear and very pleasant. Almost chilly early morning. Word by canoe from Mibu that the "Quest" on which I shall cross over to Daru (she's a sailing cutter) has just gone across, but Beach will send her right back, so I ought to get out of here about Wednesday. Left three of my boys to work in the camp under Rand. And today I sent the fourth, Aia out with thirty traps to set them in the scrub behind the rubber groves. May not get anything but hope to pick up a few specimens to allow me to classify the locality. Got out the partly dried material from Sturt Island amp and set it to dry some more. Have to wath pretty closely as there are two cats and a dog here. Made up a bait for the trapping out of boiled rice, peanut butter and dripping (lard). Went over to the mission where we had a violent discussion of the phonetics of the Gogodara language about which I know absolutely nothing. But we had series of small boys up on the veranda who were made to pronounce words of their native tongue over and over again. Put a few traps in the staore to find out which brands of house rats are inhabiting it. Tues. Nov. 10. Fair. No special news. Going to radio VIG this a.m. In the afternoon went over to the mission to tea. Caught two small bats there -- Eptesicus, I think. In the evening the mission folk came over to supper with Gordon and me. About nine thirty we heard the rattle of an anchor chain. "t was the "Quest" back from Daru. So I'll be leaving on the tide tomorrow morning. Wed. Nov. 11. Picked up traps and packed up. Aia caught a Melomys muscalis, so savanna can't be very far away behind. Any way Gordon and took a walk out behind the rubber and saw swamp mahogany and the climbing pitcher plant of Daviumbu. The "bush" was probably pretty thick before so much woodcutting took place. It begins just beyond the rubber trees only a quarter of a mile back from the river. There is said to be a swamp back there beyond which savannas occur. The termite hills among the rubber afe of savanna type, big reddish-earth mounds, with their bases partly excavated by bandicoots, probably Isoodon. Transferred the collections frm the one ship to the other, and after an early lunch went on board. Got away from Madiri about one. The wind was light at first but later in the afternoon freshened. We had to beat against it though we had the outgoing tide to help us. Anchored at six off Magobi Island. We had passed the village of Auti on the upper end of Kiwai Island about 4 p.m. The "Quest" sails well. She beat a couple sailing canoes with double outriggers. But then she can come a good deal closer into the wind. About ten thirty I awoke to find the boat which had anchored to let the rising tide go by just beginning to swing. So aroused the crew and we got sail on her once more and slipped on down the river. Reached Mibu about 3 a.m. and anchored as the tide was again about slack. In the morning I was rowed up the Mibu creek to Mrs. Cowlings plantation, a distance of about half a mile. She was there with quite a staff of laborers and her little girl Sharret (It's a queer name and I don't know how it is spelt), aged about 13. Mrs. C. showed me all over the estate, a coconut plantation of about 300 acres which has been allowed to to run down a good deal. She is at present reclaiming it actively. After breakfast I took some pictures and went off to the boat. Thur. "ov. 12. Part of the last paragraph belongs under today's date. The wind was very weak until the afternoon and then we went fast down to Toro passage between the mainland and island. Got through the strait about three o'clock but then we stuck repeatedly on the sand until about six when we got enough water to fhoat us clear. Even so with "aru in sight on the horizon we had to go a long way out to sea
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L. 24, P. 23. Following a line of stick standing in the water before we could turn and head for Daru. Smoke appeared on the eastern horizon and we thought it was probably the "Nusa" which is about due. But it turned out to be the new boat "Angus" which is to be used as a suply ship by the oil prospecting people who have gone up the river in the "Palma" We didn't get in to Daru until eight thirty. I got the radio and my personal gear off the boat in readiness for the morning. Had a short chat with Beach and then turned in. Fri. Nov 13. Have arranged to take my meals with Beach. Got the wireless up (used the mast left by Archbold to string my aerial to) Then Port didn't call. Could hear him calling other stations but he didn't call me. Well perhaps tomorrow. Very hot. Room temperature as I write (noon) 90. In afternoon went over to see the R. M. Mr. Austin whom we last saw on the "Vailala" at the mouth of the Fly. I wanted to give him the corrected version of Mich Healy's telegram asking for six months stores. Claude Champion was there and they asked me up to Champion's house for tea. Met Mrs. Healy and Mrs. Austin there. Mrs. Champion and Mr. and Mrs. Schlenker who were there I had of course met before. Austin asked me into his house on the way back to look at some photos of the Tully and Tedi River region, just a bit west of the Palmer area where we have been working all this time. Back at Beach's place I found the two men who are running the "Angus!" They have a gang of "alays or Dyaks or something board from Borneo and have to go to Moresby to settle up matters of bringing them to work in Papua. Saturday, Nov. 14. Developed this morning using some of Archbold's aero fix developer and some mouldy old hypo left lying around. Air tempe- rature 75 -- pretty high. The film isn't dry yet, but as far as I can see it is not too bad. Got through all right to Port today. Everything apparently o.k. The "Nusa"came in yesterday bringing as passengers Dr. Vernon, and two men representing Vacuum Oil Co. The latter have a big crowd of Gossiago boys among whom are two of our old boys whom Archbold signed off a couple of months ago. News that "ich Mealy has been appointed to Kerema in the Gulf. Mrs. Healy very pleased at news. Played tennis with the Champions, the Schlenkers. The latter are leaving on the "Nusa" for Moresby. Must be something doing in the oil line up the Fly with these companies scrambling for places there. Percy Hinds is now working for Papuan Oil (which is the local representative of Shell). Played bridge xxxxx in evening up at the Champions'. He leaves on patrol in the Vailala up to Suki Creek on Tuesday. Sun. Nov. 15. Mrs. Healy came down to radio office at 8 a.m.. We got through to Oroville ok and she was able to talk to Mich, he by voice and she by my morse. She leaves today on the "Nusa" for Moresby. Doc. Vernon has asked me up to supper on Tuesday. Mr. Leo Austin author of a number of Ethnological and exploration papers I have the references in my notes elsewhere. Played cribbage with "each in evening. Mon. Nov. 16. No particualr news. The Nusa and the Angas both sailed for Moresby. Getting quite a bit of radio traffic.
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L. 24, P. 24 Tue. Nov. 17. Still straightening up things. Not much radio work. Am correlating the map data of Champion and Karius, MacGregor, Austin and ourselves. Invited up to the Austins' to tea this afternoon and for supper to Dr. Vernon's. Wed. Nov. 18. Making rat bait. Moresby didn't call this a.m. so a message on hand was not sent. Working on maps in afternoon and evening. Thur. Nov. 19. Got rid of a message to Moresby and rec'd three. Dipped 120 new rat traps in oil to keep water from warping them. The traps which have just come from Moresby to replace a number of the old ones broken or lost, are of Swedish make. In p.m. worked over ma's with Austin. Fri. Nov. 20. Change in wea. Y sterday p.m. and lst night also this morning heavy showers. Close of letter 24.
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Turnweld range partly forested abandoned small mills log house road Log E.W ridge bomber Swamp Swamp canoe Tidal creek position of bandicoot fence-traps Circuit made in 2 hours @ about 2½ m.p.h. or about 5 miles Oct. 19 Confused ridges line? Sago stream taken by me Oct. 7th. bush track Sago
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IN RE 1936 NEW GUINEA EXPEDITION RICHARD ARCHBOLD, Leader and Pilot A. L. RAND, Ornithologist and Assistant Leader G. H. H. TATE, Mammalogist L. J. BRASS, Botanist R. R. ROGERS, Pilot, and Mechanic EWING C. JULSTEDT, Radio Operator THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77th STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK, N.Y. CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" FIELD HEADQUARTERS: DARU, W.D., PAPUA
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L. 25, P. 1. Sunday, Nov. 22 1936. Talking with Oroville camp this morning by wireless, I learned that the month has been very dry there, only three inches of rain having fallen. That makes it appear that the wet weather which we have had lately on the coast has not yet reached them. It is fine again today here. The rain having lasted from about the 18th until last night. Went out to dinner with Austins' last night. Doc. Vernon was also there. Spent afternoon working out maps with Austin. Mon. Nov. 23, 1936. Today the "Goodwill" is supposed to go across to Gaima and get Brass and Rand. They ought to reach here tomorrow. Tues. Reading A. R. Wallace " Island Life". At midsummer at B River Camp I set my barometer at 100 meters. Here in Daru it averages 50 meters. So about 50 meters or 150 feet will have to be deducted from all my altitude readings. The zero meter mark is even with 74.5 cms. The "Goodwill" got in about eight oclock. Wed. Nov. 25. Talked to Oroville at 6.30. They want limes and coconuts sent up by the "Ronald S". Thur. Nov. 26 Fri. Nov. 27. The "Palma" from up the Fly with oil prospecting party and the Ronald S from Moresby came in today. Nicholson on board the latter to put new crankshaft in the "Maira". Sat. Nov. 28. Radio went on the blink today again. Couldn't get off telegram to Archbold. Hope get it away Monday morning before we leave for the Wassi Kussa River. Sun. Nov. 29. The "Ronald S" left at 6 this morning for Oroville. We were ready to leave on Monday Dec. 1. but the ship with our stores on her came in and we decided to wait and get them. That caused us to miss the tide, so we only got away Tuesday. The "Goodwill" made an un- eventful trip to the Western end of Saibai Island, having stopped at Mabaduane to pick up a pilot on the way. Pilot proved to be one of the men who collected for us while Brass and I were there last April. A quiet night at anchor. Wed. Dec 3rd we got up anchor about six, passed Dauan Island, a mass of granite some 700 feet high, sight the Three Brothers Islands far to the south. Reached th entrance to the Mai Kussa (Kussa means river). Worked steadily up it. Wide, deep, tidal. Exposure of what appeared to be limestone about five miles up from the mouth on the Strechan Island side. About five oclock passed the mouth of a wide river entering from the east. and a few minutes later reached the creek on which the village of Yaro is placed, a few score of yards up from its mouth. No people to be seen when we went ashore, but later a man and his wife and child were met. The rest were away somewhere. We wanted to find a man named Gainde, but he was away somewhere. He is supposed to be quite a power here and would have been helpful in locating packers. Next morning, Thur. Dec. 3. Started about seven, down the SW arm and reached the junction of this river we are on with the Wassi Kussa about 7.45. Turned up-river and reached the present place, Tarara at 9.50. Village again completely deserted. We are occupying the Gov't rest- house and several of the cottages. Got everything ashore, radio up, and 160 traps out among the four boys. Had Norman Gordon and Twyman for supper with us, they intending to leave in the morning.
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L. 25, P. 2 Friday, Dec. 4. This morning took seven R. brachyrhinus and one R? ringens. The "Goodwill" got away about 6.15. Had answer to cable from Archbold. He has another 'plane picked out already for about six months from now. Walked out along trail towards WSW for about a mile and a quarter. Very flat. Open tea tree and Fucalyp forest, with fringes of much heavier scrub on either side. Our water at present has all to be carried in from there, where a tiny chain of disconnected water holes furnishes the sole supply. The rivers are tidal and salt - far too salt to drink. Saw signs of wallaby (savanna) and some kind of bandicoots. Last night two kinds of small bats flying above camp. Fruit bats in some numbers very high, all flying SW. In p.m. Rand and I went up the west creek in the dinghy at high water. The chain of waterholes drains into that creek and we were looking for a better way of getting to it. The salt water reaches within a quarter of a mile of the fresh water holes at high tide. Also at the junction of fresh and salt I found outcrops of limestone which I want to go back later and examine. A canoe landing at the mouth of the west creek probably the beginning of a trail going north or northwest. After afternoon tea I had Aia show me a trap trail I had had the boys cut while Rand and I went up west creek. It goes to the mouth of the same creek and up the shore for a short distance. Looks rather promising. A number of holes both in the ground and in trees. This evening at dusk Rand and I each got a small bat (two species of Vespertilionidae, probably Myotis and Pipistrellus) and Rand made a very fine shot with a rifle and brought down a fruit bat which was passing over very high. It was one of a number. They were all flying SW. Sat. Dec. 6. Overcast night which ended with thunder and a good downpour of rain about dawn. It is still raining as I write at eight oclock. In traps a number of R. brachyrhinus and one Isoodon. Tarara is located between two main rivers, and in addition a good sized creek comes in from the west, emptying just on the north side of us. So actually we are on a point of land. The greater part of the terrain is flat & very flat. And is clothed with open tree forest. But where the ground approaches the rivers or the creek there is a steep dip on which bigger and denser forest grows. All around the village has at some time or other been cleared for gardens. The gardens are now abandoned and the clearing have grown up to grass. The tree savanna identical to what I saw at Mabaduane, but Brass says there are some different trees on it. As I've said before the rivers and the creek are salt. Tides: low today about 7.30; high about 1.30 p.m. The R. brachyrhinus seem to be between breeding spells. One had very tiny embryos, the rest had none. A specimen caught was very immature, representing probably the last lot of young. This morning along fringe forest. Used sulphur in three trees trying to smoke out bats. The second tree had one in it but we missed it. The third had a male and a female Rhinolophus (?), the latter with a young one clinging to it. These are the species with broad, rather rounded ears. The tail is turned up beyond the first external joint. In the young bat the tail is turned up completely over the back. The ears are partly rolled or coiled and the tail is proportionately very short in the young bat. It sits or clings with thumbs of the wings and hind claws, chiefly to the wing membranes. When picked up it was reversed in direction with the mother, i.e. it was being carried stern forwards. Went out afterwards with two boys and cut new trail to the south. Sun. Dec. 6. Twenty specimens in traps: 3 M. muscalis 8 R brachyrhinus and 9 R. ringens. I didn't make them all up, and the only specimen in
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L. 25, P. 3 breeding condition was one ringens which had three embryos. A number of ringens females were not quite fully grown, the same being the case with R. brachyrhinus and M. muscalis. One brachyrhinus juvenile. Went this morning to look at the limestone exposure. Started at the waterholes and worked down the bed of the stream. Came on first exposures a few hundred yards down. One place with a five-foot waterfall (when there is any water to run). The waterhole stream is only a tributary of the main one up which Rand and I went at high tide in the dinghy. The main channel bends away to WNW. Got some strikes and dip angles approximately. But limestone badly mashed up and quite a bit folded. One good syncline exposed. Strikes all approximately NNW; dips varying from nil to as steep as 35 degrees. None of this appears on the savannas, so it seems likely that the region must be classed as a peneplain, the clayey surface soil being being residue of limestone and possibly of any beds that may once have overlaid it. The time to see structure here is at low tide. I can account for the tidal or estuarine nature of this region only by supposing it drowned land. Wonder whether the peculiar form of Strachan Island with its surrounding tidal waters may not be due to its once having served as the mouth of the Fly R. The point of turn-off would be somewhere above the Fairfax islands, and the latter could be brought about through pirate drainage and slight warping of the general earth level. The limestone has no obvious fossils in it, but may contain micro- fossils. The bed of the stream contains a fair number of potholes. The limestone where not water worn appears greatly cracked and jointed. In the afternoon Rand and I went by dinghy for about four miles up the SW branch. The river goes south; west; south; west; S and on around to ESE; then back to a long WSW stretch; an S-loopto the right and again WSW. On the next corner a fair sized creek enters on the river's right bank, the main stream turning NW. We entered the creek and landed on its east shore a few hundred yards up. Behind a fringe of trees a few yards wide we found the usual level, burnt-over tree savanna. Rand shot a Pipistrellus which was flying above the creek. The river thus takes in the main a series of right-angle turns, probably conforming in part with the geological structure of the underlying limestone The high places naturally occur at the bends, turning the stream into each new course; but those high places mark little more than where the peneplane, or perhaps a slight anticlinal fold is butted against by the river. The intervening points have high land behind them too a score or so of yards behind the water-loving Nipa palms which give those parts of the river its characteristic swampy appearance. Mangroves appear mixed with or in stands replacing the Nipa. Mon. Dec. 7. Two boys out with colds and fever yesterday, but the other two (Gororo and Taikudo) have been pinch-hitting for them and brought in 7 and 8 specimens respectively. 4 ringens, 6 brachyrhinus, 3 muscalis, and (what I'm very pleased to see) 2 specimens of the Phasogale of the Daviumbo camp. Both (males) were trapped in long-grass savanna. The brachyrhinus comprise one large female with three embryos, 1 y. ad. f., the rest being juvenals of the past breeding season. Went down the waterhole stream but found nothing in particular. In p.m. burned sulzhr in a couple of hollow trees but nathing in them. Went jacking in evening. Shot only two night hawks and a kingfisher which is the second specimen of a new species according to Rand. Swarms of winged termites buzzing around my light. Tues. Dec. 8. 14 specimens in traps: 4 brachyrhinus, 9 ringens and another Phasogale. The last without any young in pouch. Heavy rains during night. The local policeman (one who came from Daru
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L.25, P. 4 with us) who has been trying to round up carriers for us, came in to camp yesterday afternoon with half a dozen people, two men and four boys. It's a beginning, but we will need many more before we can move anywhere. Two of them speak Motuan and one has been to Daru. Took two boys and completed a trap trail started the other day. At a q quarter of a mile out along the WSW trail my line diverges and enters the scrub on the south side. It gradually works around to the E, and after crossing patches of savanna and partly burnt forest it strikes the SW river about half a mile down up from the camp. Our track then comes in along the river bank. Found some of the nicest forest I have yet seen in this station. Plenty of good trapping places. Aia is ok again; Kanamoia still sick. Touch of laringitis, I think. Wed, Dec. 9. The catch fell off a bit today; perhaps parts of the line need changing. Gororo brought in four, ATA and Kanamoia one each. Catch 1 Phascogale, 4 ringens, and one juv. brachyrhinus. Got abat out of a tree along the SW river by sulphur smoke. This p.m. locals brought in a Petaurus and an Isoodon. Brass's boy got a savanna wallaby from across the river to the SE. The Petaurus shows a very distinct gular gland in spite of its slight immaturity. Last night the locals who are staying with us (ten of them now) put on a dance. It was virtually identical to the Daviumbu performance except that the chants were different and there was no attempt at dressing up for the occasion. They sing the same refrain over and over, lightly beating time with one of their arrows on the bow-string (rattan). The knees are lightly bent and straightened also to the time of the dance, and every half minute or so they all shuffle a few paces from where they were just dancing before. One of them came out with me hunting for holes in trees this afternoon. We were trying to locate the hiding places of bats, rats and flying halangers. Actually we found no trace of anything. Thur. Dec. 10. Three ringens, 1 Petaurus and 1 brachyrhinus in traps. Having a bit section of the line changed. None in breeding condition. Went with local boy and say where the little Petaurus of yesterday was found. In a savanna tree (Tristania; Myrtaceae) at least 150 yards from rain forest. It was driven out of a knot hole about twenty feet up, and when the boy started up after it, it volplaned to the ground where it was caught. Went on a short way with two boys across the waterhole stream at its junction with the larger and across that one, onto an extensive NS stretch of savanna datted with rather small trees and having a swampy herbaceous cover among which are Eriocaulon and a sedge. Through this savanna a track runs north to Bebedebn and several other villages. The female Petaurus was brought in a short time ago. The pouch opens forwards, and there is no gular gland. Saw a local boy cutting up wallaby meat with a bamboo knife. The knife cut just as cleanly as any of our steel ones. In p.m. a baby Petaurus, eyes just beginning to open; tail hairs still closely appressed. A carpet snake eight or nine feet long was brought in. It contained a young wallaby probably M. agilis, possibly M. oriomo, but not Dorcopias Fri. Dec. 11. One Phascogale, 2 brachyrhinus, and four ringens in traps. one of the brachyrhinus juvenile, one ringens half grown Last night a Pipistrellus knocked down with a stick; two Isoodon brought in by local lads.
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L.25, P.5 We now have about ten of the local men and boys in camp. They are beginning to hunt regularly for us. They appear a much more sophisticated lot than those we had to deal with at Lake Daviumbu; wear ramis and several speak quite a bit of Motuan. Besides this place contains a government rest house, and is regularly visited by government patrols. They also have dealings at times with the Dutch across the border at Merauke, either directly or by trade, for one of them is wearing a huge celluloid earring that certainly never came from this territory. They use bamboo bows and arrows. Temperatures range from 22 to 35 centigrade. This afternoon some six or eight more men arrived. Among them they brought four Isoodon. The people come from a place called Mata. To date we have had a short spell of showery weather with thunder storms between the 6th and the 9th. Since then the weather has been fair and very hot. The original lot of men (locals) came from Derideri. At five o'clock six women wearing long grass skirts and carrying bundles of appalling size upon their backs came into camp. They are the wives of some of the men who arrived earlier. Sat. Dec. 12. Last night shot a fruit bat out of the flock which proved to be of a different species than the usual type. Its forearm only 175 mm. This morning the trap yield was good: Two ringens, one brachyrhinus, one Melomys muscalis, another species of Melomys and Hydromys. The last two are new to the camp and both are rare. The fruit bat, I think, is the same as one shot by Archbold at Daru and is only the second of its kind collected. I had my four boys working overtime last night skinning five bandicoots by the light of the gasoline lantern (a fifth specimen was brought in just at dusk). Later in the morning we went out again after bats in hollow trees. Tried about five but got nothing for our work. Back in camp found two more bandicoots and two more flying phalangers caught by local people. Rand and Brass have been packing up in readiness for a two weeks trip tomorrow. They are going out about 12 miles to Mibene, a marshy place. I stay here to await the arrival of the government boat "Vailala", as I expect to return to Daru ahead of them. Sun. Dec. 15. Brass and Rand with their carriers got away at 6.30. It was delightfully cool in early morning after a slight night shower, but right now the heat is tremendous and I don't envy them their trip at this time of day. In traps a young Uromys with a few other things, making the fifteenth species collected at this station. Reorganized camp a bit. Had a radio table built and moved into the rest house where we have our main cache of stores. Cut a window in the bark wall on the west side to let a breeze flow through the house. Built additional water catchment place on the roof. When it fails to rain we have to send a mile for fresh water, the river being tidal and salt. Got in touch with Oroville. The Ronald S with Healy on board is on the way down the Fly River. Sent off a message for Daru to them to transmit, as my wet cell can no longer be charged from the generator and I expect it to go dead any time now. At Oroville they are having showery weather now. Sent Aia and Kanamoia across the river with the dinghy and instructions to get back at noon. They arrived only at 2.50, I meanwhile having visions of having to send out a search party for them. The worst of it was that no one had noticed just which way they had gone with the boat and we had nothing but a nasty leaky little canoe to go looking for them in.
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L. 25, P. 6 Minimum temperature last night 22½ c., max. 35.5 At 4.30 a call from across the river let us know someone wanted to come over. I took a boy and rowed over to find four men and a youngster who had come from somewhere NE of us. One was dressed as a village police-man. They had no food with them, but brought in three bandicoots and a juvenile flying squirrel which I bought. They have gone back for food and say they'll be back tomorrow. They say the name of their village is Bé. Mon. Dec. 14. Changing some of the trap line to across the river. Catch this morning was only four, a Phascogale with five young in the pouch, two ringens and a brachyhinus. Our friends of yesterday arrived again this time with bananas and yams. I didn't do as Rand did the other day -- buy all their food and them have to feed them. Instead I bought a little of it and told them to keep the rest to eat themselves while they went out hunting for me. They have at least one dog which they simply left on the other side of the river to howl its head off while they came across. Someone will have to go and fetch it. Crossed to NE shore where some old gardens and fallen-down houses. Beyond found some good-looking forest where started transferring traps (60) from the line run by Taikudo and Aia. On way back had Gororo taken to SE shore in the bend of the river. The first part is mainly mangrove and nipa. From there I landed at the north bank at the mouth of West Creek. An old track leads up through some dwarf bamboo past three fallen houses (little more than shelters), into some really nice woodland, beyond which is again savanna. Am having the steps at the end of the old wharf (have I said there is a wharf here? There is one rather rickety but usable one and the remnants of two others) repaired. Then the dinghy can be moored and always afloat instead of high up on the mud as she usually is when wanted. At 2.30 four of our boys with two locals came back from Rand's party. A note from Rand says they are at Panzan (?) about 5 hours walk out. So they didn't go to Mibene after all. They will be staying about 8 days. There is no forest at all. He doesn't say in the note whether there is the swamp they hoped to find. They met some additional people including the police man of Rouku on the road. Temperatures: last night min. 22½ c., today max. 34½ c. Tues. Dec. 15. A big catch from the woods across on the NE shore with only a hundred traps: all but on e R. ringesns though, and that one another young Uromys. Of the series of ringens (13 of them) one alone is juvenile. Shot another Pipistrellus last night. A light shower this morning again. The day will probably hot and steamy later on. Shifting a second hundred traps into the NE woods across the river. Shall concentrate my whole battery of traps there for four days or so and then move them to the other big batch of forest as yet untouched on the north side of West Creek. By that time I hope the "Vailala" will have arrived and I shall pull out for Daru. Passed my first hundred specimens for this camp this morning (15 species). That number of species probably comes pretty near the total obtainable without a very protracted stay. This morning the local people all slipped away, whether to their villages or not I don't know; but they seem to have told the boys they were coming back. Probably they've gone for more provisions. Temperatures: Min. 23½ c., max. 32 c. Rather cloudy and early rain prevented the usual very hot afternoon. About 5 o'clock the local natives came back once more, bringing more food with them. They seem to live entirely upon yams and bananas. Wed. Dec. 16. Catch (with 240 traps) 11 R. ringens, of which three were juvenals. Not too good but then we had a lot of rain last night. I find that I have already more than 30 ringens from this camp, and it
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L. 25, P. 7 is questionable just how many more it is worth while to make up. Beginning yesterday all trapped mammals come from across the river to the NE. The traps are all set in rather dense rain forest which includes trees up to two or two and a half feet in diameter. So far the yield includes only Rattus ringens and Uromys, the former abundant, the latter rare. Today the trap line count is stepped up to 300. Went out to sulphur-smoke a few trees I have had in mind. Had just moved away from the first, thinking there was nothing in it when two bats flew out. I got the net back in place just in time to net a third. No more came out however, nor did I get results from any other tree, excepting a g Gecko. The bat was a male Rhinophphus. Have had Brass's boy Mick fishing from the end of the dock. This morning he has caught three quite large fish and an immense crab. I had one of the claws of the last for my lunch (part) so you can guess that it was pretty large. Temperatures: Min. 23° c., max. 32° c. Thundershowers this afternoon and steady rain tonight. Gororo out rebaiting his traps, found a hole in a tree from which he poked out two bats, mother and son. Son very large, large enough to fly, I should have said, but mother carried him up onto a bunch of leaves where both were shot. They are the long-eared species of Sturt Island. Inahobi my cook-boy pro tempore, has tried his hand at making bread today for the first time in his life. Our regular boy has gone out with Brass and Rand. In Inahobi's own words "I put him yeast. Bimeby he go up (making a gesture like filling a baloon); I put him along over; he go down". From which you may gather that the bread was not exactly a success. It could be called tolerably good damper though. The mental strain was so great that Inahobi had to sleep right through the afternoon to regain something of his customary poise, and even yet his memory appears to be weakened. Tonight for supper he put on something he called stew. Apparently he had dumped the meat, potato and onion leftovers together, added a glutinous mass of flour and warmed slightly. If I survive his cooking I shall have done pretty well. Thur. Dec. 17. Rain of various intensity all night; clearing at day- break. Trapping perhaps owing to the rain very poor: two ringens and an Isoodon. The latter taken in the intergrade between savanna forest and true gallery forest. Went across to inspect the traplines of Gororo and Taikudo. Both fairly good, but most of the traps soaked and sprung by heavy rain, so having the boys roof them over with leaves this morning. Semt Aia and Kanamoia to do likewise after they had skinned out the catch. Mick caught three more fish today. His triumph of yesterday was rather dimmed by his getting fever in the afternoon; probably he had been out too long in the strong sunlight and heat. Having the wharf (wulp the boys call it) repaired. I had the ladder rebuilt the other day -- the one on the end leading down to the water. Am now having a lot of new cross poles put in to take the tread of people going along the top of it. Inahobi seems to be getting the general idea of telling the time quite well. He forgets about the minute hand, and only watches the hour hand so he is generally somewhere near right. Incidentally one of my boys (quite a while ago) came and reported that the clock was "dead". Tried an experiment this afternoon. I have three work (general) boys in camp who have just about done all the odd jobs around. So I've given them each twenty steel traps and an untouched patch of forest on the north side of West Creek to work upon; and instructions to trap for just one kind of animal, namely Echimypera the short-tailed bandicoot, which so far has not been taken at this camp, nor have any signs of it been reported. Not one of the three has worked with traps before, but they all think it is easy, whereas my regular boys know very well that it is not.
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L. 25, P. 8 Went exploring with the dinghy down the river a way this afternoon. First stop right bank half way down the E-W stretch in front of camp. The tip of the peneplain reaches the river. Clothed with good forest, with savanna on either side, the savanna east of it distinctly on lower ground, some fifteen feet lower, the peneplain being around 30 feet above high tide level. No rock outcrop. Next stop on the outside of the bend at the end of the S-W reach, where river turns S. Here also the peneplain, some twenty feet higher than tide-top turns the stream. Also heavily forested, with savanna some eighty yards back from the water. Thus this "rain-forest" can be classed as gallery woods. Just before river reaches bend, a creek filled with mangrove growth enters from N. Third stop, on N bank about one third of way back to camp. Steepish bank with the peneplain atop. Here decomposed limestone outcrop, and distinct ledges visible down through the water, looking like beds of limestone some ten inches or so thick. Shall revisit place at low tide to get strike and dip and specimens. Apparently when the river cuts against the peneplain it almost always induces a strong forest development. Probably the effect is only indirect, and due more to improved drainage and sweetening of the soil; for according to Brass the soil of the savannas is strongly sour inspite of its underlying country rock of limestone. At any rate the picture consists of an erosion-etched peneplain, much of which is entire, slightly lowered in general level to allow entrance of the sea into the principal river and creek-beds, but with the top of the limestone generally some feet above high tide level. The broad, flat, surface expanses of the peneplain are now sour and support only tree-savanna, while the better drained portions carry forest whose largest trees reach two to three feet in diameter. Along the river faces in the actual tidal fringes mangrove and nipa palm grow, the nipa usually along the insides of bends. Decomposition materials overlying the limestone vary in thickness from five to fifteen feet. Lateritic nodules apprea in many places on the surface. Some iron stains can be seen in the limestone itself. Temperatures: min. 23 c., max. 33 c. Rains by 3 oclock, thundershowers. Fri. Dec. 18. Rain for most of night. Went back at low tide again to examine limestone outcrop seen yesterday. Rock much decomposed; parts stained brown, Beds where first seen apparently levely but 30 yards to W a 20 degree incline clearly seen, so probably exposure in toto represents the western half of an anticline with strike more or less N. Took several specimens of the rock. Catch with the rat traps: 8 ringeas, 1 brachyrhinus. The steel trap artists though they did not get Echimypera_ yet brought me the first fully grown Uromys for the station. Radio from Austen, Daru saying "Vailala"unable leave till early in new year because of magneto trouble. Took dinghy and went up main river this morning. Found limestone outcrop in two other places. Took bearings and number of notes which have put on map (see later). Going tomorrow up SW branch to do likewise. Hope by compiling all data to have fair amount of evidence re surface geology of the near-by country. On second thoughts have decided to transcribe notes from rough map: the main river, or as I'm told, the Baura Kussa turns in a broud swing of a quarter of a mile in diameter, leaving the West "reek, to a NE stretch about 1/4 mile long; then bends to due N for another 1/4 mile; then a couple of hundred yards NNW; and around to the right entering a 1/2 mile stretch bearing 80 degrees or parallel with the top reach of the Wassi Kussa. I did not go up that stretch very far. Now coming down river, turns are started or else completed with the peneplain at the west end of the 80 degree stretch, the forest there being mainly tree-savanna. Rounding the bend a creek enters from the west, its mouth mangrove-filled, and just
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L.25, P. 9 beyond it the river again comes up against peneplain, here clothed with mixed tree savanna and rain forest. The inside of the bend is a welter of mangrove trees and fringes of nipa. Two thirds of the way down the N-S stretch and on the left the river again touches peneplain. I went ashore here (C). A single river terrace some ten feet above high water and the level ground fifteen feet higher. Tree savanna one hundred yards back from the river. A small gulley bearing SW showed massive limestone in its bed about six feet below peneplain level. Between savanna and water good gallery forest formation with a lot of dwarfed bamboo on terrace. The bend from N-S to NE-SW is caused by the river again striking the peneplain. Here I landed again, finding two distinct river terraces, one five feet, the other fifteen feet above water level. The peneplain heavily forestedforested. Several old, nearly disintegrated blocks of limestone on surface of peneplain; ome pebbles of laterite (?) on upper terrace. From the water the junction of this piece of forest with the last place at which I landed could be seen behind a rather deep, mangrove-filled bay. The inside of this bend (on the right bank of river) was a dense tangle of mangrove. Also the inside of the next bend (opposite west Creek is the same. Nipa appears sporadically. There is far more mangrove. The ridge just north of West creek, which turns the river S is also densely forested. It is in that forest I have the steel-trap boys working at present. Interpretation of all this is the main problem. I can't help thinking that my supposed peneplain with rivers etched into it is somewhere near the right answer. The valleys are usually two or three times as wide as the water filled beds today, the parts now not occlupied by river being filled up with ooze or silt on which the tangle of mangroves is found. Water cutting brings slow changes in the bed, cutting in one place, deposition in another. This brings one to question the rate of cutting in an estuarine river, and in rivers whose bottoms and sides are formed of the softest slimiest, non-abrasive lime-mud or clay-mud. Maximum tidal current reached is one to two miles per hour., and all the way along (except at a few corners where maximum wear is taking place now) the action of the water is slowed down by the roots of mangroves and nipa palms. Have noticed a few small sink-holes here and there. Temperatures: min. 23½ c., max. 33 c. Showers in p.m. but clear tonight. Sat. Dec. 19. No rain last night. In evening I shot three bats: two Pipistrellus and one new to the camp with red fur, a Vespertilionid. Unfortunately I blew the last all to bits. However have saved enough to show the head and ears, one wing complete, both hindlegs and tail with the interfemoral membrane. So I think even if I never get another that I'll be able to identify it. The skull is almost intact. It's rare, or I would not have taken so much trouble with it. This morning the trappers brought in three Rattus ringens, and two more white-bellied Melomys, of which I had so far only one from this camp. The steel trap boys brought back two scrub hens. This morning by dinghy up the Togi Kussa (the SW branch) for a couple of loops. Strong tide with me going and against returning. River goes first S, and then W. Landed at the upper end of the west reach (left bank), where river cuts against it and exposes the limestone beds. These nearly except at east end of fifty yards exposure where they begin to dip E very slightly. The exposure looks like the ? half of a very slight anti- cline. Brought back one specimen of the rock. On top the peneplain was only some twenty feet above river and clothed with tree savanna with a plentiful mixture of dwarfed bamboo instead of gallery forest. Mapped the river. Weather overcast all day. Wind SE. This area is singularly clear of pests: No leeches, no scrub itch, but some sandflies (punkies) at dawn and dusk. Of course the darned yellow-bellied houseflies are everywhere.
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L. 25, P. 10 Went this afternoon to look at the steel trap lines. They are all along the north side of West Creek close to the water and along the shore of the Baura Kussa in the other direction. Decided to try baiting them. So far they have been set in likely run place. Made a bait of chopped yam mixed with rice and had some put around each trap. This is Saturday issue day for the boys. Each one gets a tin of meat, a piece of soap, a box of matches and two sticks of tobacco. Temperatures: min. 23¾ c., max. 29½ c. Overcast most of day. Wind SE. Had good luck with bat shooting this evening. Got a Pipistrellus and two Myotis. Nothing new but I had shot only one of the latter up to now. The evening became quite clear just before sunset, and all the bats flew late compared with what they've been doing the rainy spell just past. They did not appear until quite seven. The big fruit bats started passing over however about a quarter to, but very high, far out of gun range. They, during the wet weather have flown rather lower. Tonight too they were much more scattered than they are usually. Didn't see any bats that looked like the red one I shot last night. Counting up my catalogue, I find that I have collected just over 400 bats, of which about a hundred are in formalin. Then I must have around 300 marsupials, which leaves 600 to take care of the rodents. Sun. Dec. 20. No rain last night. Catch 3 old, 3 young R. ringens. Just heard from VHW5 (Oroville) that a search party is being organized to look for Adamson and Champion who went in last April with a party of police and carriers to patrol the country to W and N of Mt. Leonard Murray which we saw from the air at 10,000 feet. It was evidently a heavily populated area, and in the midst of bad, rough limestone country. Moreover it was brand new country, and brand new people. It certainly is not a region I would have liked to go into first time. Brown told me that the "Vailala" has been ordered to Kikori from whence the search is to be started to help with transport or anything else. So that may queer her trip out to the west here. Probably shall get another telegram Tuesday about her. Went this morning back to West Creek where I first found the limestone of this region. Traced it up quite a way. It bears away Nw to NNW. The limit reached by the tide is about a mile as the crow flies west of Tarara. And a hundred yards or so west of that the most westerly limestone exposure is found; that is to say, farther west the bed of the creek has not yet cut down to the unweathered rock. Just close below the highest massive limestone, a score of yards only, a tributary comes in over a horizontal ledge of limestone whose beds certainly appear perfectly horizontal. That brook course comes from N. Found a peculiar dried-up mossy-looking growth on many of the lime rocks, which I now think may be a fresh-water sponge colony. Have saved some pieces. Had a number of the boys out bat hunting but they got nothing. At 4 p.m. half a dozen local natives arr'd with a note from Rand to say they have come part way in today and are looking around at the Agonis flats near a water hole (I presume a couple of hours out), and will be in tomorrow. Am sending back the bush people with three of our extra boys to help him, as he requests. Temp.; min. not taken, max. 31¾ c. Mon. Dec. 21. Catch poor: 4 R. ringens, 1 Melomys muscalis Heavy shower early lasted until 8.30 a.m. Wind W. Rand and Brass got in a few minutes after I had had my lunch. They report a fairly successful trip. They got me three mammals not yet in my collection for this station: Phalanger maculatus, 3 psecimens; Dactylopsila, 1 specimen; and a Murid which may well be generically new. The Dactylopsila came from the Rouka side of their camp. The new rat from between them and Mibene (their camp was at Penzara). The three cuscuses from the Rouka side also.
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L. 25, P. 11 The rat is rather large (size of a large alexandrinus), but it has peculiarly long, narrow hind feet, built much as those of Leptomys, for which reason I think it may be a hopping species. Its ears are moderately large, and its skull of peculiar type which must be studied later after it has been cleaned. On the road back and a couple of miles from here Rand saw a boy shoot a Petaurus from a savanna tree, again showing evidence of its preference for a tree-savanna habitat. The new rat had the tip of the tail missing, so we could not know its length. It was taken out of a hollow tree in tree-savanna, but down near the base of the tree. The mammary formula is 2-2 - 4, a formula which turns up repeatedly in widely distinct genera of Papuan rodents. Tues. Dec. 22. Shot another Myotis (?) last night. Fruit bats few and very high. A lot of natives including a boy who speaks both Motuan and English, by name Gaindi. We had heard of him from Austen at Daru. A whole flock of dogs came with them. Catch a forest Melomys, two ringens. Rec'd and sent Christmas telegrams to U. S. this morning. Port promised to get me a sched. with Daru, but I listened in to their sched. and of course he had to forget all about it. Thye work again at 2.30 this afternoon so perhaps I can get one of them then. Wanted to get in touch with Daru operator, but Moresby forgot to tell him. Quite urgent for me to know whether the "Veriveri" in commission again to take me out in time for the mid-January "Papuan Chief" to Moresby. If "Veriveri" not available then must make canoe trip to mouth of Mai Kussa and walk overland the 50 miles to Mabaduane where I can get a sailing canoe for Daru. Am going to wait until next schedule on Christmas Day and try again to get thru to Daru. Meanwhile have ordered the canoes for thw Mai Kussa trip to be brought up to Tarara from Jaro Two Petaurus brought in in the evening, male and female. Wed. Dec. 23. The boys changed 200 traps yesterday, so the catch jumped up. No change in quality however: 7 R. ringens and 1 Melomys. Sent boys out bat hunting and myself set out for a good long walk along the WSW trail. Suppose I got out about 2½ miles. Most of the way the tree-savanna comprises trees of about three inches in diameter. Near the camp they reach six inches to a foot; and about two miles out I reached a quite large patch where none exceeded two inches -- mere saplings in appearance but so far as can be judged newer to grow any larger. The pink flowers of a little sundew were scattered all through the grass; also a number of the grasses themselves seem to be coming into flower after the recent showery weather (it is fairly fine though overcast these days). Gororo came back with a bat (Rhinolophus ?) which he got out of a tree with sulphur fumes and a butterflynet held against the hole. The other boys though they came later had none. They pick up traps tomorrow in anticipation of moving down to the mouth of the Mai Kussa by canoe. Was amused and interested this evening to see that our boys, the police boy and medical boy had constructed cricket bats out of the bases of coconut leaves, the clasping basal part being the blade and the petiole of the leaf the handle. The ball was whittled out of wood or somethingvegetable, they had two sets of wickets made of sticks. Several of them had evidently played a lot -- probably at one of the eastern mission stations. Two at least of the crowd were good bowlers and one was very good with his coconut-leaf bat. All have good eyes and can catch like nobody's business. The wireless "air" is full of flying Christmas greetings. If you want to catch just how much Christmas still means to the World, just listen in to any of the commercial morse stations. They are shooting through continuous streams of Xmas Greetings. I heard a number of California stations and Manila was working duplex. And I can only receive freq. 30 to 50 meters.
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L. 25, P. 12. Thur. Dec. 24. Veryhigh tide yesterday afternoon; peak about 3 p.m. Tide this morning not yet low, but expect to see low tide about 8 oclock. Moon only just past half, not due for full for about 5 days, so tides not increased on its account. Probably due to west winds blowing in from the Arafura Sea and banking up the tidal waters in the Torres Straits. Will watch today to see what happens. If I get big tides like yesterday's for my traveling I ought to get down to the mouth of the Mai Kussa fairly quickly. Took rather [illegible] long walk this morning out to the chain of water holes where Brass and Rand stayed over night on their way back from their western jaunt. Turner off about ten minutes before reaching water hole place and took old trail leading due S. About a mile along it came on a set of creeks, some tidal, others with fresh water, with a number of gardens and considerable expanses of bamboos on the south side. Found limestone exposed in the bedds of all of them. They evidently have a way out to the SW river (of this camp) some where above where Rand and I went in the dinghy a couple of weeks ago. The waterhole streams flow S and join those mentioned above. Very heavy rain this afternoon with some thunder and lightning. Tide even higher than yesterday -- only a couple of feet below the wharf -- high water about 4 oclock. Two more specimens of Petaurus brought in. Talked with Gaindi this morning. He knows the names of all the R. M.s of Daru since the year 1. Asked him about Dactylopsila. He said if he had to go out and get one he would walk out along the trails (which means through tree savanna until he heard one chattering in a tree, and then he'd cut t the tree down. He states that Sambaram, Bebedeben and Gubam are all on the banks of this river (the N branch, so if that is the case our map is all wrongly drawn. Fri. Dec. 25. Christmas Day, and the day when Moresby said he would be on the air as usual, and so far I haven't heard a squeak out of him. He Promised to call me at 9.50 however, and he may do so. But if he isn't working his regular scheds with the voice stations he may also have no date with Daru. In that case I should have to wait over until tomorrow. The two extra canoes for the trip came in yesterday. Tide at 9.10 not yet quite low. Boys playing another game of cricket to celebrate Christmas. 10 a.m. Moresby is not on the air at all this morning. Don't know whether he'll call tomorrow or not. And on Tuesday when I asked him about Christmas Day he said he'd be on the job as usual. I listened in periodically through the day but VIG did not tune up once. Heard plenty of other stations late in the afternoon. Hope Port will call tomorrow. Sat. Dec. 26/ This is a great game. Moresby again neglected to call. Even though it wasn'this day for calling, I thought he might have done so in view of having missed yesterday's schedule. Showers getting pretty frequent. Fixed up shelter over one of the canoes this morning. Tide high today about 5 p.m.; some six inches only from flooring of wharf. About fifteen more local natives came in today, including six women. All came from Rouku on the Morehead River. Sun. Dec. 27. It took just half an hour this morning with four boys taking turns at pulling it over, to start that darned radio motor this morning. It's a most unreliable piece of workmanship. Expect to talk to Oroville this a.m. at 8 oclock. Got through to Oroville. He is going to try to get Thursday Island to call me at eleven. He has no sked with VIG today. Have arranged to listen at three p.m. and six p.m. for VIG and Oroville will call again at 5.30 to see what's happened. Also trying for "IG at 6 a.m. tomorrow morning. Going over now to try.
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L. 25, P. 13 Mon. Dec. 28. Was talking to Oroville wondering how [illegible] we might get in touch with Port "Oresby", when suddenly he came in and said he had just been listening to us. He cleared our business quickly and sent on my message to Daru asking him to come in at one o'clock. At one I picked up Daru and got Beach to the other end where I was able through the operator to get him to send a large sailing canoe to get me at the mouth of the Mai Kussa. The anoe is due to get there to pick us up on the eighth of January. So at last matters are settled. Spent the day packing up and generally winding up my part of the collections which are being left for Rand to bring out. Tues. Dec. 29. Full moon last night. Got everything down to the water side in readiness for loading. Tide still low at 5.30 but rose quickly. We got away from just at eight a.m. First bend (r) 8.15; second bend (l), {time not noted} third bendxxx: 8.50; Our little expedition comprises three canoes with double outriggers copied after the style of the seagoing kiwai canoes. I have each one rigged with a small fly over it to give a bit of shelter to our gear in case of rain. We plan, heavily loaded as we are, to work down on the tides to Azasaco (port of Buji) at the mouth of the Mai Kussa. This morning's tide was not a very high one, and probably we wont get many hours travel before we meet the incoming big evening tide and have to tie up till it readhes high (a out six o'clock). In my canoe I have my first boy who speaks some English, Kanamoia who functions as cook boy, and a crew of two locals. The other two canoes are in charge respectively of the police boy Koimi, and the medical boy Kousa. In each canoe I have four of our regulrs and a local crew of two. Third bend (r), 9.10; furth bend (l), 9.19; fifth bend (r), 9.40. We still have the falling tide with us, but I doubt whether it gives more than 2 mile per hour. We seem to be traveling at about one third of the speed of the "Goodwill" coming up. The 9.40 is the last sharp bend we met. The river runs generally SSE. I stopped at 11 to let the boys get fresh water at a place they knew about. The local boys that is. Thinking the tide must be just about low and ready to turn I decided to wait over, cook food and catch the evening high tide. But as I write it is past noon and the water is still running out, so I lost at least an hour. The tides are so darned uncertain in these parts that you cannot calculate them as you can in most parts of the World. We are on a savanna from which the trees have mostly been destroyed by fire. The water, a seepage, is good. Decided to push on a bit more before the tide gets too strong. Pushed off at 1 p.m. The boys, knowing they are on the way out, were anxious to keep moving, and it was all the same to me so we went. However we naturally didn't make much time. A light, intermittent west breeze helped a bit tho$. About 3.30 a stray fragment of SE wind sent us to cover. That wind coupled with the still rising tide was too much. So wetied up at a fairly good place at 4 p.m. 5.30 p.m. We are now set either to go on by the light of the full moon with the tide as it begins to fall, or to stay the night through. Rain is threatening from the west, and it is evidently giving Tarara which we left this morning a good bath. But the SW wind seems to be holding it off from here. I have a fly set up in case it should come. Tide was high at Tarara yesterday at six p.m. Under the tail of the departing storm which after all beat the SE wind we got away. It was practically dark at 7.30, and though the sky had cleared in the west the moon had no perceptible effect for the first hour. Vivid lightning flashes lit up the sky and momentarily blindedus, and between such the paddles dripped phosphorescence. Hour after hour we paddled and I must have dozed for I dont know when we reached the Jaro fork of the river. At midnight we entered Jaro creek at practically dead low water.
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L. 25, P. 14. Everybody was dead tired. We had traveled from 8 to 11, 1 to 4, and 7.30 to midnight, or 10½ hours. Wed. Dec. 30. This morning is clear and fine again. It was a bit hard to get the boys started, everybody being a bit stiff and inert, but we got clear about 6.30. The tide had been running out for two hours already. Picked up Gaindi the Jaro boy who is supposed to know so much about the country and to have so much influence with the natives. He had walked across yesterday from Tarara to take his wife back home before joining me. Passed the mouth of the Jari River (not Jaro Creek) which comes into the Mai Kussa from the east at 7.00 a. m. One of my two canoe boys is said to be mad. He may only have a cleft palate, but whatever is the matter he is not just like the rest of natives. He is a good-natured old fellow, a big man who seems to be getting bald - an unusual thing in a native, and he wears a frontal headband of cassowary plumes. He is a tireless paddler and yesterday proved to be a perfect tower of strength, taking the canoe up the last lap of Jaro Creek almost under his own power. With that storm yesterday we got caught on a lee shore. We had had to go in there against the SE and tide, and besides it was the only possible place to get in through the mangroves. Then the west wind with its sheets caught us and rubbed the outriggers pretty hard against the mangrove roots. It was well too that we had put the big fly up. Even in that relatively small river a bit of sea was kicked up by the wind, so we'll have to proceed pretty cautiously going south down the main Mai Kussa from Sevidiru to Buji. We'll be going down the east shore I suspect. And these storms come on in the afternoons. 3 a. m. Have done well so far: 2½ hours down the SE arm to where the river turns east, and where the cross-branch (Awori Creek) cuts away to SW to join the Wassi Kussa. We are being helped a bit though by a light W breeze which catches our shelter fly and blows us along. The tide is of course still with us. From the above we zig-zagged ESE, reaching Gija, the new village noted on the way up the river at 12.45, just at the time we began to feel the effect of the newly rising tide. Our arrival created quite a sensation: Drums were beaten, boys started dancing around in a ring, shells were blown. Then the figure of the village policeman dressed in the conventional uniform appeared at the waterside to welcome us. I got a little house assigned to me and the boys yet another. After settling down a bit I took a good walk to look over their regular water supply, which is a good mile away. In wet weather they get a little water closer. These people formerly lived at Bellivi which is now deserted, the policeman who came walking with me and speaks a few words of English, told me. The all-pervading limestone is here too. There is a much weathered exposure just at the landing. Took a lot of pictures of the people. They are planting taro, bananas, pawpaws, etc. right in the village still, also coconuts. But they have mature gardens which must have been set going some long time ago, as I bought about 50 lbs. of yams and bananas this afternoon. The present population seems to reach about 20 adult men and rather less women, few children, three or four pigs and a dozen lean dogs. The country behind the village is fairly heavily "treed" tree-savanna. Saw large fan-palms and a narrow-leaved Pandanus, the latter bordering a drainage raving. Limestone appeared at the water place too. Noticed how some of these people are opportunists: a number of yams being roasted against a treestump in the clearing, thus gradually getting rid of the stump. Thur. Dec. 31. Away at 6.30. Collected specimen of limestone.
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25. P. 15 6.40. Passed mouth of Rome River. The tide at Gija seemed a bit queer. The bid high tide came last night about seven oclock. I looked out at 3 this morning and the water was dead low; yet here we are on a slightly falling or practi cally slack water which is certainly many feet deeper than threehours ago. Quite a large number of fruit bats flew over Giza last night, travel- ing as at Tarara SW. Much too high to shoot at. No smaller bats seen, thought looked for. Clearing the slightly winding stretches below Giza and the first part of the long N*S stretch at 9.40 a.m. The tide has been running up very x slightly against us, but it should run out very soon and keep retiring u until about two oclock or perhaps three. Actually slack of the tide came at 9.30, but it hadn' started to run out when we reached the Large Lira River which comes in from the East after the islands and sea at the mouth of Mai Kussa had been sighted. The mouth is still some miles off, I reckon. We tied up to some mangrove trees about noon to let a little squall blow over. Then pushed on with the little waves slapping the bows of the canoes to Azasako, about a mile and a half inside the mouth of the river. However as it was then 12.40 and the real afternoon tide was beginning to flow, moreover the wind stayed pretty fresh, I considered it better not to try to go outside to Buji (which faces an open roadstead), but to secure the canoes, more everythingshore that might be wetted by afternoon showers, and wait over two meals (noon and evening) for the wind to moderate, the moon to rise (it is only just past full), and for the big evening tide to start to ebb. If that works right we shall go around to Buji on smooth watery getting there around ten or eleven oclock tonight. Azasako is a continuation of the limestone formation, more worn down and its cap of laterites more concentrated. The tides are cutting at the little ridge continually. The place appears quite old, as there are old coconut, mango and Poinciana trees here. It is at present deserted, and the boys are enjoying themselves with the mangos. Saw several fragments of kangaroos skulls about the house. 5.45 Water and wind smoothed out and two hours of daylight yet, so decided to push on and try to reach our destination this evening. Got out to the low headland that marks the east side of the river mouth just at 7.30, then ran into a slight east wind which checked us but soon died down. Traveled east long the coast, with the island of Boigu invisible on our right, we at length turned into the little mangrove-fringed cove that marks Buji. Got there at 8.30. A couple of dim lights showed while we were off shore, but as we drew in close a number of coconut flares lit up the tiny village of half a dozen houses. It was New Years eve, and they were all set to celebrate. However most everything was put off. Fri. Jan 1, 1937. At 5 oclock in the morning the New Years dance was heralded by drumming on a bamboo, gradually increasing the speed. Next the local inhabitants, about six men and six women paraded around the huts beating drums and chanting, occasionally breaking off to cheer. Four small fires had been lighted in a rectangle to give light. The moon was still bright, but I reckoned I'd finished sleeping so I got up. As daylight came the dance faltered and finally ended. Got organized by 9 or 10: workshop fly up, work table made, things unpack- ed and arranged, kitchen affairs settled. A Petaurus and a large Uromys were brought in quite soon. Also have two of Rand's old boys skinning birds. Lots of ducks here in the swamp behind the village, also the regular run of kingfishers, leatherheads, small bronzy doves, etc.
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L. 25, P. 16 Took a short walk out behind the village late this morning. Quite a lot of ti tree swamp, the whitish bark sharp against the green of the sedges which at present are gowing actively there. Beyond and slightly west of the swamp the ground rises just sufficiently for development of a mixture of rain and savanna forest to develop; and I do not doubt that regular tree savanna will be found close by. Locals say there are plenty of Macropus agilis, a fair indication. This place would be very hot were it not for a rather pleasant sea breeze. We look directly out south at Boigu, and by going out on the west limestone point a second island Kusara is equally close in a SE direction. I went out to look at the rocks just after lunch. They appear much jointed, the joints having washed out clean in many places by the action of the sea. Must go out again and take the bearings of their strikes. Mangroves growing with their roots thrust down into the cracks in the rocks are apparently dwarfed. About a mile east there appears to rain forest close up against the sea. Put on a little propaganda anent my buying specimens which almost at once bore results in the form of a young scrub wallaby (M. bruni). That gives us three species of mammals here without any traps set. Had 150 rat traps put out this afternoon. Also made up half a dozen birds for Rand including a pair of big kingfishers that I shot myself and whose identity whether Rand's new form or the old sort, I cannot decide. Heavy rain with thunder and lightning came on at 5.30. How thankful I am that it did not catch us at any time yesterday. We just slipped through at the right time. I forgot to say at the time that coming down in the canoe, except at the hottest times of the day, sandflies (punkies) were persistent, apparently flying far and wide over the water. Just at dusk last night salt-water or mangrove mosquitos came out after us a couple of hundred yards too. I've just witness a lovely sight: one of the locals giving a small white pig a bath in the rain -- washing it all over, and the piglet simply shrieking its head off. Am entirely without tow and very short of cotton, so I am having ti-tree bark, papery stuff finely shredded up and using that to make bodies. It works well too on big things. Sat. Dan. 2. The usual two south New Guinea savanna species were trapped last night, namely Rattus brachyrhinus and Melomys muscalis. Of the nine specimens of the former four were juvenals. One of the two males of the latter species was a young adult. This place teems with mosquitos. Turned in very early, just after finding that there were flying bats to shoot at. Could hear the drums of the village just opposite on the island of Boigu sounding faintly across the water. Today threatens rain. Having been living well on ducks which we shoot in the swamp just behind the village. Shot half a dozen birds for Rand's collection. Suppose I'd better keep some bird notes here: The ducks gather in water about a foot and a half deep, about ten strong. They are very wary and rather hard to stalk. They do not appear to be breeding. The red headed blue parrot flew into a coconut tree, and sitting talking to itself whenI shot it. The pair of kingfishers with much worn plumage were on dead trees by a garden. Neither in breeding condition. Plumage greatly worn. The Black and white butcherbird was flying about among ti tree woods. The several little warbler-like birds with gray backs and yellowish white underparts live in the tops of the ti trees and make a weak twittering noise. The male and the two females all in breeding condition, one f. with an egg practically ready for laying. The leather head was shot whileperched on a tree in the same clearing as the kingfishers. A boy shot the white cockatoo and the hawk. The former are common everywhere, often perching on dead ti trees out in the grass swamp.
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L. 25, P. 17. Rain this afternoon. At four o'clock in the rain a number of small birds were flying back and forth between the mangroves and the coconuts. Shot seven of them and found that they represented three species. one a smoky brown honey-creeper, another a warbler (?), the third also a warbler(?), but with yellow on the outer margins of the wing feathers instead of plain brown. Sun. Jan. 3, 1937. The locals threw a dance last night which began about seven and ended at ten. It simply meant that they shuffled or pranced around a couple of fires to the tune of their own very monotonous repetitive chants and the beat of their drums. Shot a [illegible] among a number that came winging in around the coconuts at dusk. Had put on my headlight to try for the eyes of a few more when I made an interesting discovery: A pair of eyes shone down from a coconut. I shot. And the animal proved to be a little flying squirrel (marsupial) Petaurus. Subsequently I saw three sets of their eyes, shooting two and losing one. A last animal was located and shot in still another coconut tree. So evidently Petaurus is accustomed to making its home in the crowns of the coconuts, probably feeding on the flowers and newly set fruit. This habit may well have been recorded somewhere, but clearly it is an acquired habit if the coconut Petaurus is the same as the ti-tree savanna one; and it certainly looks the same. I rather suspect the fruit bats came across from Boigu. Tonight I hope to watch for them. They should be easy to see if such is the case. They are long-eared, and quite different from those of The Fly River and Tarara. They look like the single one shot at Daru by Archbold, and may in reality be Australian. Traps this morning (250 of them) brought nothing new: brachyrhinus and muscalis. One of the local people has taken his dogs and gone hunting, so perhaps something new may turn up as a result. Walked out this morning due north for about a mile to a large swamp bordered with ti tree; close by found some long-grass savanna dotted with big trees from a foot to eighteen inches diameter. Most of the country not flooded is covered with rather poor thin scrub with at intervals a really large tree two or three times the general height of the small forest. Shot a dusky honeycreeper, a black bird with grackle-like tail, a blue pigeon. Lots of plover around the swampy places. The stomachs of the Petaurus contained a little of what appeared to be vegetable matter - probably the flowering parts of coconut. The man with his dogs certainly got a result: namely a specimen of the wallaby I described last year with type locality at the Oriomo. This animal, a male is not at all badly chewed up. I have felt all along that the species should turn up along here west of Oriomo, and sure enough here it is. The insides of the ears are unpigmented, and the cinnamon legs and feet warmly colored. Its captor declares he got it out in grass country. And my two East Cape boys positively insist that this kind of wallaby occurs in their country, where there is "plenty, big grass", as well as the larger M. agilis. If this wallaby M. c. oriomo should occur beyond Moresby, or even in the grasslands of Moresby and Yule Island I should not be greatly surprised. After the specimen had been skinned I took the following measurements: length, ulna, 6 mm.; humerus, 50; tibia, 125;, femur, 100; epipubic bones, 25 mm. I've been shown the tail of Dactylopsila the 3-striped marsupial squirrel. And a boy on learning that I would purchase such immediately set out to get one. It is just as though some stranger from say Mars came to Newton, N.J. and asked about woodchucks. A score of boys there would know exactly where to go any time to get one or more. And these fellows often know the exact tree in which to look for Dactylopsila.
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L. 25, P. 18 Yesterday afternoon I sent a messenger to Mabaduane to say to send on the sailing canoe at once. This gives me a second string to my bow in case Beach should have somehow slipped up. And besides I notice that in his telegram Beach says he is sending the canoe to Torji (on Strachan Island) instead of to Buji where we are. Now I hadn't intended going to Torji anyhow. The medical boy Kousa who is a native of Mabaduane asked if he might go along with the messenger and return to get his medical kit on the sailing canoe. He is a good boy and speaks and reads English well, so he may be able to hurry matters up. The boy who went as guide over the first part of the road returned this afternoon, so Kousa who picked up another guide in the fashion of the country must be well along by this time. The people here think he will reach Mabaduane tonight. If so the canoe may well come tomorrow or the day after. A strong squall this afternoon, without very much rain. Late this p.m. with the tide low I walked out to the west point of limestone, taking a compass to try to get bearing of the rock seams. The limestone however proved on closer examination to be so greatly and irregularly cracked that I could make nothing definite out as to its structural character. I could look along to the west and see Strachan Isl. Across the cove to the east I found that there is a similar point of limestone which I next visited. It was slightly lower than the west point but otherwise identical. Boigu and its two sister islands are almost certainly also made of this limestone, and rocks of the same material (in appearance) jut through the surface of the sea at low tide in a couple of places. Just at high tide line the laterite nodules common on every elevated surface have been washed and rounded by the waves into a small beach of tiny smoothly rounded gravelly pebbles. I have seen no trace of the pumice so common at or just above the normal high water level at Daru and Old Mawatta. The laterite beach also occurs at Azasaco. Mon. Jan. 4. Last night I walked out to the limestone point at dusk. Sure enough the fruit bats were coming across from Boigu. I suppose I must have seen fully fifty coming in out of the dusk across the water. Shot three, all males. Their flying is slightly more wheeling and dipping in character that that of the bigger bats of the Fly River, which seem to fly almost by compass. With the jacklight I later saw four more Petaurus, all of which I collected. They dodge about among the coconut inflorescences, sometimes running out along the petioles of the great leaves. I have yet to see one fly. Shot one however back of the swamp in a ti tree, where it was sitting across a small branch. The eyes shine brilliantly. In traps today a lot of R. brachyrhinus and M. muscalis. Also a small Isoodon and a Phascogale. We are making up eighteen mammals today. Shot a few birds for the bird boys to work on. My boys (the Island boys) put on a small dance of their own; I suppose to show these locals a thing or two. However they didn't come near eclipsing the local art. The best they could do was jump up and down either standing or squatting. They did have a wider repertoire with their borrowed drums however. Each "number" is very short, and as ended with a series of shishing noises followed by a grand roll of the drums. The local people courteously brought torches for illumination and for warming up the drum heads which to remain resonant must be continually dried out. About 11.30 a big sailing canoe came tacking across from the Boigu side. It proved to be the one sent by Beach; they had stopped at Mabaduane and left again before Kousa my messenger had arrived, so we shall take along his medical kit and pick him up there. The canoe to avoid the strong westerly storms that come in the afternoons has gone up to Giga but will come in again this evening. We shall leave in the morning.
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L. 25, P. 19. Another specimen of Macropus oriomo just brought in; this time a female. Very pleased to get these animals. A very large male Macropus agilis represents that species too. So with only four days collecting I have no less than nine species of mammals to show; we have, I think from twelve to fifteen species of birds. Some measurements of the above two species are as follows: Tibia 260 mm. 135 mm. Femur 230 115 ulna 165 87 Humerus 145 78 Epipubics 70 57 The last mammal to be taken by us out of Buji was an adult Isodon which at some time during its life had lost its tail. It had two young in the pouch which were about half grown. Got most everything packed up and ready for a start around moon-rise. Tues. Jan. 5. Made a beginning of getting away at two a.m. I had a cup of coffee and a bite of kai while the boys were loading the gar onto the which I found upon trial to be nearly half a mile out through shallow, knee-deep water and ankle-deep mud. However we were actually under sail by three o'clock. These native sailing canoes are quite wonderful craft: With a hull made of a single huge log' hollowed out as a starter, they build up a high freeboard with heavy timbers thus add- ing at least a foot to the clearance. Then double outriggers are fitted each outrigger carefully shaped to a torpedo-like form. And finally, at least one mast (in our big canoe two) is stepped and rigged, both masts being stayed out to the ends of the outriggers. We carry three sails: jib, foresail and mainsail, and we go like the Dickens in the merest whisper of a breeze, and close into the wind too. I should have said that the outrigger crossbeams are slightly up-arched so that only one of the outriggers rides on the water at a given moment. I sat for a while on the big platform that is built on and out over the outriggers, but soon decided to have my cot opened and get some more sleep. This morning we stopped for a few minutes by a broad, shelf-like extension of the shore limestone which came out from the shore forat least half a mile and must have reached for a couple [illegible] of miles. I got hold of a couple of pieces of limestone from it: the selfsame kind of rock that we have been finding all the way out. The native captain of the canoe who has sailed all around the Straits declares that Mabaduane, Dauan, and the rather distant Darnley Island are the only places known to him where granite occurs. The limestone shelf lies approximately [illegible] NW of Dauan Island, and E of the Boigu group of islands. 4.15 p.m. We are within a short distance now of Mabaduane. First calm, then head wind from the SE int which we had to beat delayed us. I reverse my statement made above about these canoes being good sailors into the wind, though. A series of a bout ten slight points with shallow bays between them about ten miles apart mark the south coast. Dauan has a shelf to the NW that looks suspiciously like the old limestone . Saibai is almost surely limestone. Along its northern side are about seven slight rises ending in points with very slight bays between them. Near its western there is a slight downwarp, where the village has been located. The island group Three Brothers far south (at least one of them) is also granite. The little island Sogeura is also formed of ganite. A head wind all the way and the tide later setting against us delayed our arrival at Mabaduane until about 8 p.m. And to cap things we ran aground about 300 yards out but within shouting distance. A small canoe
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L. 25. P. 20 drawn by half a dozen people wading came out and my bed and cooking gear with two boys were loaded into it (and I too). Ashore I found a celebration going on in honor of the return of the pearling crews from the pearling fleet at Thursday Island. The men danced and sang while the women stood around looking on and holding palm leaf flares to light up the scene. Kousa the medical boy who left me at Buji to walk to Mabaduane was in the thick of it. He said he arrived Sunday afternoon, and wants to take his box of tricks and cure a few people at this village before coming on to Daru. As far as I'm concerned he may, but I believe he has orders to return with me just the same. Probably the festivities are the attraction. The island between here and Saibai appears to be limestone; west and SW of it there are two lots of rocks that probably mean the remains of two other limestone islands; right under us now and within a couple of hundred yards of the granite the sea bottom appears to be limestone. Wed. Jan. 5. Up before dawn and had coffee to the tune of several millions of mosquitos, the latter having roused the boys in their house even earlier. I stayed in the government resthouse which Brass and I occupied early last year. Packed up and got on board as quickly as possible. Have to wait a while for the tide to rise. A mild west wind blowing which would make tacking necessary. However before tide had risen a heavy rain and wind storm came down from the west. Too strong to risk the old sails of the canoe in. When the storm had nearly ended and tide reached high (about noon), we got away, actually leaving at 12.30. The west wind had softened to a nice breeze which the tide hurried us along finely. But by two we were once more becalmed , but we still had the tide which runs east at about a mile and hour. Just about stopped off the Binaturi River until 6.30 when a fine wind from SW sprang up and we ran up to within sight of Daru. There the tide turned once more and the wind died away. So I got out my cot and turned in. At 2.30 a.m. actually we anchored off the dock to wait till morning. Thur. Jan. 6. I learn from Beach that the "Royal Endeavour" is expected in today, and will sail again tomorrow. So I'll have to make speed with repacking, etc. to catch her, but the chance of getting speedily to Moresby is not to be missed. Went out to dinner at Doctor Vernon's. Played "Pontoon" afterwards. Fri. Jan. 7. Put final touches on packing and sent the cargo and boys down the wharf to go on board early. Went around saying bye-bye to everybody. The "Royal Endeavour" finally got away at about 1.15 p.m. We call at a number of the gulf ports and first of all go into the Fly River once more to Mibu and possibly to Madiri to load copra. We anchored for the night some ten miles off Parama Island in four fathoms of a water and sufficient chop to make me retire to bed without supper. Sat. Jan. 8. Away at 6.30 and up the Fly between Kiwai and Mibu Islands, finally around the top of Mibu and down the NW side to th3 creek where the Cawling plantation is to pick up copra. The "Goodwill" was lying at anchor there, and Gordon was up at the house. He asked us to lunch after which the business of loading copra began. About five oclock we saw Luff's boat the "Aramia" coming up the river and he came to a halt too - probably the first time that three boats have ever been at Mibu at one and the same time. Luff went ashore with Gordon for supper while the skipper Johanssen and I had ours on board.
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L. 25, P. 21 Sun. Jan. 9. A blustery morning with strong NW wind and driving rain. Rain cleared later. Left Mibu at 11.10 a.m. Mon. Jan. 10 Arrived Orokolo 11.10. Left at 3.30 with Mr. Stewtley on board. He is a London Missionary Society man, a young fellow who is going in to Moresby to marry an English girl who has come out for the purpose. They are going for their honeymoon to Rona Falls (I think I should give them some traps). Reached Araimiri about 5 o'clock. Anchored. We have to pick up another passenger here, a Mrs. Williams also going to Moresby. Tues. Jan. 11. A very quiet night at anchor. The place where we last stayed, Orokolo, is on the open beach in a very shallow bay. Entirely fronted with coconuts, but with quite low hills just behind about half a mile back, hills only a hundred feet high, I should say. Beyond, Stewtley says, it gets flattish before the big hills are reached. Apparently rainforest. A couple of miles to the SE is the mouth of the Vailala River with a huge fan of muddy water extending out from its mouth. At Araimiri, a coconut plantation, the immediate front is flat, rainforest country, with a range of rather rugged-appearing hills behind which runs nearly due south and fronts on the sea to the E of our present anchorage where it forms a bluff headland. These hills appear to reach a couple of hundred feet. All dense covered with rain forest. Bigger hills (2 - 3000 feet) are visible behind. 11.15 a.m. Approaching the flats about the mouth of the Lakekamu River. A fairly distinct point to the NW behind which we have left the village Araimiri and the Vailala. The point composed of low rugged hills, mostly in second growth, and more or less detached from the mountains farther inside. The main mass of mountains reaching perhaps 4000 feet, lies now about [illegible] or NE of us, and forms chief divide between the Vailala and Lakekamu River systems. The coastline from the point just mentioned this side of Araimiri and the mouth of the Lakekamu is lined with an almost unbroken fringe of coconut groves and villages half hidden amongst them. All is apparently rainforest country. Dewdley's (not Stewtley, as written above) boys recognize among mammal skins I have out drying on deck the following: Uromys, Petaurus, Rattus, bandicoot. They do not know Lacylopsila and Macropus bruni. We got away from Araimiri at about 6 p.m. owing to delay caused by the loading of three bullocks. A big mass of mountain, cloud-topped between E and NE. Wed, Jan 12. A guba struck us at one in the morning and we tossed about all over the shop. The storm gave place to strong NW over a heavy swell from SW, making a cross sea which lasted until cut off by Cape Suckling. This morning course about E. Yule Island and behind it Mt. Yule passed about 9 o'clock. Country eastwards including Yule Island itself very dry and without forest. Low scrub or grass-covered hills a few hundred feet high just back from the coast. Cape Suckling low and flat, arid, backed by same low hills. Dry continues at least to the mouth of the Aroa River. Stopped from about ten a.m. to 5 p.m. at Hisiu, west of mouth of Aroa River unloading timber. Made Redscar Head and anchored in its shelter (SE of it) for the night. The headland, Varivari Island and the Dareba Hill (500 ft.) close by with the intervening lowlands all dry country like that of Yule Island and Port Moresby. Thur. Jan. 13. Left anchorage abt 5.30. Wea. fair. Reached Moresby at 8.45 a.m. Rest of day settling down.
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L. 25, P. 22 Fri. Jan. 14. Mapping course up to Astrolabe and on towards Kokoda. Saw Armit and O'Reilly of maps dept. Also Worth, same office. Later saw Williams, anthropologist who has been over the trail. Saw Frame about going up to Itiki rubber plantations and getting mule transport. Started laying in stock of equipment. Rather hope to get away Tuesday next. Sat. Jan. 15. Living in half bungalow with the Dixons. Room to unpack and get organized. Long talk with Boileau and Townsend. Visited Mr. Armit and his sister Mrs. Lee. Both interested in nat. hist. Armitt has story of a colony of flying phalangers living among vines and vegetation along a cliff face at Awarra, upper Musa River, Northern Division. Local people feed these squirrels, bring yams and sweet potatoes, etc., call them out to get the food. Then once in a while they kill a few off for food themsleves. Shipping the main lot of baggage and three boys tomorrow up as far as Rona. Expect to go myself the day afterwards. Sun. Jan. 16. Shipping tomorrow; going up to Rona myself on Tuesday. Closing this letter,
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Letter no. 26. p.1. Pat Marle Jan. 16, 1937. - I have just closed letter 25 & still lack the typewriter in Innesley during the Serpina trip. Am resetting the anem: Former setting zero meters level with 74.5. New setting: zero meters level with 73.8 (at 4 p.m.) Sat Jan. 19 - Talked with Arnett & his sister Mrs Lea this a.m. about a small Phrynosoma which they once had in captivity. In the evening dined with Mr & Mrs J E Williams & bridge afterwards. Mon Jan 18 Sent 3 boys + most 1 carp up to Rona. In evening went out to Boileau's house. Tue Jan 19 Took other 2 boys & baggage went up to Rona by B.N.Q. ferry, misty & fine rain. Dint boys had trapped P. nardex & Melomys leiper anaeoid at Rona (2 p.m) 340 meters (70.5%) = feet. Walked up to the knoll where the author Beatrix Grimshaw once had her house. A wonderful view of the falls from there. The Umbellifers in bloom along the road & hillsides, then inflorescence red. We had supper at Mr Armstrong's home - passion-fruit pie with cream for dessert !!! Wed Jan 20 Windy morning - overcast - clear out at the coast. Traps: 3 (2 R, nardex + 1 Phrynosoma). The Phrynosoma may be new. Fully adult male, but of very small size. The ears not noticed as to appear double-lobed - Very unlike the common species of the plains lands - This one taken up on the grassy hillsides near fence around orchard east of the house. Its measurements & proportions unlike those of any I have caught so far. Went up the hill east into the forest which grass at the base of the aggregate cliffs to superintend the laying of a line of traps. Plenty of signs of rabbits, also if what may be Phelipara citharista - namely scathed & chewed bark on the shrub trunks that arise among crecks in the rocks. Saw no huts or caves.
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L. 26, P, 2. Later in a.m. went to top of Cliffs S. Jnos. Top very rough with a cover of grass & eucalypts. Then Jan. 21. Fifteen species today; 11 skinned. Three species of Rettos here. R. madax with mannae ? 1-2 = 6 ; R. drechyshmius, 3-3=12; R. near proctor, ? 2-2 = 8. A young Clump in steel traps. Two Tralmp levipes badly cut up by traps & ants. Picked up traps in p.m. but the mules did not come after all. So we had to wait until next morning. Fri. Jan. 22. Set away with the mule-loads about 9 a.m. Reached "the depot" at about 10.30 & waited for the 2nd truck to take us on to Itiki'. Truck came with a load of rubber done up in bales of 100 lbs-each about 11 o'clock. We loaded up & started off, reaching Itiki' at 1 p.m. Road soon leaves the savanna & eucalypt country & enters what formerly was heavy forest but is now converted into clearings, pastures & rubber plantations. Passed a very fine house (Koiteki) owned by Sifton. Jhumines gaites along the switchback road to confine stock. Soil slipped red earth. Quantities of Perukene grass in clearing along roadsides. Was met at Itiki' (B.N.G. Co), very large rubber station. W. Godson (in Cleys) was away. But met Ws + Ms + Miss Brewster and W. Cay. He latter invited me to stay at his house where, temporarily I now am, at least until I get my bearings. Too late after getting over a large ridge to Cay's house & carrying baggage across for boys to set traps out. Sat. Jan. 23. Fair weather. Barometer 8. a.m. 450 meters (69.55) = 1800 feet.
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Sun. Jan 24. The trap did fairly well with their trap lines: a lot of R. murder, 2 R. macleri, 2 large red melomys, 1 Phascogale melanura, and a slim-footed rat that I do not know (no. 3435). Guy had an invitation for us to go to lunch at Eilecot, a neighboring sugar estate. We rode over about 10.30. The actual owners of the estate Mr. & Mrs. Lowdens are away south but we met the two superintendents Metcarn, Hurley and Inathley, the latter a Canadian from Saskatoon, and Miss (ma) Wright who has lived all over Papua & has had much to do with the history of the territory. She is another Mrs. Cowling a related lady who once "knocked a boy out with a chunk of firewood & knocked him back again with a pail full of cold water". She is now housekeeper for the Lowdens. Rain came on in the middle of the day, lasting on and off till night. We got back about 5.30. Forgot to say that in p.m. yesterday I walked along the crest ridge due E., from here & up onto the large hill top that overlooks the entire middle Kemp Welch valley. Oaks were reached about 2/3 way up. Also a cedar-like tree (only one though). Six patches of Kurakuru grass on flats along the ridge crest; a deserted shelter at the 5th. A prod deal of moss or ground trees; quantities of trailing bamboo. Lots of trap places. Probably didn't go up a thousand feet. Mon., Jan. 25. Rain (7 a.m.) 4.55 m. (69.5 cm). Catch fell off to 3 - probably the rain had something to do with it, with new. Want to see Ariel's & Tailkuda's trap lines. They run through a small patch of acacia growth & into the
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L.26, P.4 heavily forested ravine in the bottom of which the principal stream of Iteki flows. On sides of the valley are dotted with large bowlders buried in the frost, with the roots of trees climbing here and there over them. Plenty of good trap indications. A few leeches. We are working the hollow trees for bats this morning. So far I have not seen or heard a single bat in Itiki. The two old type localities Sogeri & Haveri are virtually synonyms, being only a mile or so apart & in identical forested hill country. Itiki and Eitogo are parts of the same. Sogeri besides being applied to the head quarters valley of the B.N.G. Trading (rubber) Co is used for this entire rubber district -- so any animal with type loc. Sogeri or Haveri which I may catch here can be designated a topotype. The Phascolos melanura caught yesterday came from a trap in second growth only some 50 feet above the Itiki River and on gently sloping ground. Tues, Jan. 26. Last night went up the ridge tracks with head-light. It was bright moon light & I never saw a thing -- nor heard any sound except frogs and a skink. A dry hight in two animals from the Sogeri pasture -- 4 muskies: a Melomys allied to musculis, probably introduced with open country conditions; and a female y. of a bandicoot -- probably Echimy sp. This alone 6 specimens: two topotypes of Melomys leipus, another Phascolos melanura, two Rattus murder and a half grown R. prac tin. Went over to see Gordon, manager of the estates here. Has arranged to move to the Gold Rest hom a mile W of the rubber factory. It is just across the river on a low ridge surrounded by frost -- looks like a port location. I shall catch up on Thursday.
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L-26, P.S. This afternoon my steel-trap boy Liza brought in a small Pseudocheirus which I so far fail to recognize. Its general color is brownish gray with faint dorsal stripes, a well defined narrow-frontal stripe colored blackish brown and around the base of the ears the same color. The boy found a large tree with a hole in it the size of an orange, rather high up. He went up & found the creature inside - for further data see tomorrow's notes. About 5 pm. a stationary trap brought in a ? Petaurus. This animal is probably P. papuensis papuensis. It was caught in the woods nearby. Wed. Jan. 27. Today 2 Rattus mordax and 2 R. praeter. The Pseudocheirus proved to have three well-formed young in the pouch. Also only three functional mammae, (the fourth being undeveloped (probably present but I could not find it). Moving across the estate to Sogeri tomorrow. Thur. Jan 28. Picked up traps; 4 R. mordax but did not keep them. Moved across to the Sogeri Rest Home with the help of six of Sobom's boys. Spent most of afternoon settling in. The rest home is a couple of hundred yards N of the river on a low ridge. Fri. Jan 29. We put out only a few traps yesterday. Caught 4: 1 R. praeter, 3 R. mordax. Had to go over to the estate storerooms in the morning; in the afternoon I plodded up 500 feet to a native valley on the ridge NW of us. Father was at home except two cats. All traps are now set (350 of them), so we ought to get a considerable catch tomorrow. Two species of bats were flying in the clearing last night, but I did not succeed in shooting one afternoon. Hope to get them though.
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L. 26. P. 6. Sat. Jan. 20. Last night we were all set for the cats: four dogs each armed with traveling sticks to try to knock them down, and I with the short gun. Only me was taken + unfortunately I blew it practically to fragments. I could recognize it as Pipistrellus someren. Trap yield, 15, but lacking variety: one more totype of Melmys leipes, (the rest Rattus mindex + B. proctori. A steel trap yielded one for only of Chiromyops [illegible], one of the rare arboreal species that I want especially. One of my Ferguson Island trips gives me the following notes on Ferguson Isl. mammals (to be taken with a little salt of course): - Present Absent bandicoot sp. Phascogale gray cuscus Dendrolagus Dactylopsila Phal. maculatus Peters Mac. hemii, ("tree bandicoot") Dorcopsis Macropus ogilbi Zaglossus Rattus Melmys "big rat" Chiromyops Hydromys "? Pirakidra" (from a Ferguson mountain boy) went over to see Johnston after lunch. He is another of the same estate overseers. He presented a natural skin of Dactylopsila. At 4. so one of the locals (Korani) from the Valley of Urimanu (which I visited yesterday) brought in one of the dare tree rats (Pogonomys lepidus) which I am so anxious to obtain. The specimen is a female
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L 26. P. 7. but I was unable to make out the mammary formula. Though an arboreal mammal, it was caught on the ground. Tonight's bat hunt gave us Pipistrellus (the same that I blew to shreds last night), knocked down by one of the boys' sticks. Apart from our Distem Division material it seems to constitute the first record for Papua; certainly it is in the Central Division newly collected. Going over our C.D. material I find we now have: Rattus, 3 spp.; Melomys, 2 spp; Popanomys, 1 sp.; Uromys, 1 sp., an unidentified rodent; Uromys, 1 sp., - then are the rodents; marsupials: a bandicoot, Pseudochirus, Petenurus, a wretched native skink of Dactylopsila, and Phascogale, 2 spp.; bats: the Pipistrellus only. Total: 16 species. Of these four only are typotypical. We have just been attacked (8 pm) by an old Korari named Kowkew with his entire retinue of about 3 men & 3 women. The village in the hill which I visited yesterday is his. His distinguishing badge is a delby hat painted all over with silver paint. He is saying never to take it off. Sun. Jan 31. Nothing new in traps: R. mordax, R. praecox and M. lewiper. Sent Gorro & Coe out shooting - as usual knewer. This p.m. Johnston came over for a chat. He got a Hippopridus (probably Pulexina which we want) out of a tree this afternoon, but he turned the tree to the ? hat is pretty badly damaged. I'm keeping it just the same. Last night Kowkew said that two Kangaroo might be found at Moroko on the Musgrave R. 8.5. p.m.
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L.26. P.8. This evening's bat hunt brought us one more desired Type, namely Nyctophilus microtis - at least I think it's that, and Syeri is type locality for it. We lack Rhinolophus fallax from "Sahibree" which may be Megalirei. It as it is quite close, by but in Eucalypt country above Raha. Two other lots Saccolaimus mixtus and Phonicus papuensis have Port Moresby as type locality. Unfortunately "Port Moresby" may indicate some place back in the bush or bit may be right. I can't shut these bats with the gun. They are too swift & too erratic, & fly so low that they are invisible to me against the trees. The 5 trap keep their sticks brush & trees. The 5 trap keeps their sticks switching back forth & connect with small bush in awhile. Have seen no fruit bats anywhere as yet. They jackaling the others might I saw the eyes of either Nyctomere or the small Dobsonia on the wing (the former, I think). Lest jackling but never saw an eye. Mon. Dec. 1, Heard bats flapping their wings up in the top of the house, a gram thatch - but when I switched on my light could not see them. Twice 1 a.m., moonlight. These same port results: 3 P. fracta, 2 P. mordax and another new(?) has cycle. A member of the murine pop- but seems by much larger. Incidentally, the port referred to (p. 6) was of this species. The animal does very much like one of the South American Meta chings. It was caught in port at the port of a hollow tree with a steel trap baited with meat (not carcass). Also another specimen of the recent taken at Stike (# 3435). I suspect that these are
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L.26. P.9 Sthenopus verruculus - They have slightly spiny dorsal hair, the ventral stream white, hands & feet dry & slender, rostrum long. Unfortunately the claws of both are mutilated by ants, so I can tell not what part of the creature. Both are males. The type locality of the species is the Arena River. The terminal 1/2 to 2 inches of the tail is white. Maraspid bones of Phascolos near Murex 18 mm. Called upon the Rodmans again today & 2 wanted to phone Muresly. They prove to be more affable than I thought originally - at least I was asked to have a drink & for a little social chat. Brewster had his brother from Robinson River visiting him. Kerranie for a touch. I fear this poor Dosed him & made him sick down. He seems to be no better this evening. Tue, Feb 2. A very chilly night - Bright & clear, & this morning, the mist rising in all the valleys. Catech again prod: 3 Melops leipes, 1 Melops lacy albael, 4 Rattus praeter, and a Vespertilionid lot of genus unknown to me, knocked down with the flat of a knife as it flew at dawn back & forth along a stream bed in the front. It has a transvers nasal ridge, large interfemoral membrane & hy tail, ears rather large flattened process on the calcars. It is a female. The arboreal Melops is related to or perhaps the same as a form it used to take up the sky R. It was trapped by the brookside. Out this morning looking for hollow trees to burn sulphur in or the chance of getting more bats. All but two trees seen in 2 hours walk were uncommonly healthy, and the two with holes contained no bats. End of L.26.
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L. 27, P. 1. Tue, Feb. 2 - Just closed L. 26 In pm. a pointed - card last smoked out if large tree with sulphur fumes. This is the same as the one taken on Sunday, but it is complete (the other had its ears burnt + I couldn't tell their shape). It is also the same as specimens taken at Stuart Island (# 3005, rc). If this is H. d. pullatus I feel sure that it must be referred to as a full species, distinct from H. diadema which I know fairly well. Probably however it is not, & in that case we have still to collect the type of H. d. pullatus. The Astrolabe Range fauna so far secured, is as follows: - Phascolome melanura Typl loc. Taken by us at, " rona Rona Rona " m. sp. - Rona " near murex - Sogerii Peroryctes broadbenti (jws). Goldie R. Sogerii Isoodon morebyensis Pott Mardyly Sogerii, Rona Phalanger trivirgatus or matokia Angahura R. Rona Petaurus papuanus NE. Itiki Dactylopsila trivirgata aro.. Sogerii, Rona Pseudochirus forbesi Sogerii Itiki macropus, a. papuanus Yale Dr. Rona Hypsipidrus sp. - Sogerii Pipistrellus sp. Sogerii Sogerii Myotis microtis Sogerii Vespertilionid bet. - Sogerii Rattus mordax NE Sogerii, Itiki, Rona " praeter Solomn Dr. " " " " brekyrhinus month Angahura R. Rona. Stenomyx virecundus(?) Aro R. Itiki, Sogerii Melomys lewipes Haverni Rona, Itiki, Sogerii " naso (?) Kapeni R. Itiki " utillus Ongabuya R. Sogerii (grass land) " new beijnnii (albanal) Arofa? Sogerii Womyx prolixus Haverni Rona Pogonomys lupidus Haverni Sogerii We still lack: Phalanger maculatus, Pseudochirus avareus, Dendrolagus dorianus?, Pogonomy forbesi and P. lorius, + P. lemu Rhinolophus fallax, Hypsipidrus d. pullatus - seven species. Also I understand that Zaglossus and fruit bats occur. (m.) See p. 12
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L.27. P.2 From the highlands connecting the Oastolabi with the west central range -- highlands bordered on the SE by the basin of the Kemp Welch R. and on the NW by the headwaters of the Goldie and Brown rivers, I hope to get: Tormops anah and Crossomys monocloni which have their type localities at Ejogi and Serajina, both in headwaters of the Brown River. And I'll additon ought to get many valuable new records. A second specimen of Melomys lutillus? has just been called by Mr. muscalis) brought in by the grass-cutters. Tonight's batting (literally, became five sticks were swimming about all over the clearing) brought me a second specimen of Nyctophilus microtis, also a female. The folding of the wings of this bat appears to me peculiar and I have tried to preserve it in the sterniest species. This ends my fifth collecting day in Sgari and in that light I have we have taken 42 mammals. Wed. Oct 3 -- Flying foxes about last night just after midnight. Went out twice with light but could not see them. from now at 1 A.M. Catch: 1 Melomys leipes, 1 M. lutillus (= muscalis?), 1 Rattus prueta. M lutillus was taken NE of camp in a grass-filled clearing formerly a Koiari garden place. There is no doubt it invades open spaces as soon as forest is cleared + gardening abandoned. The Bogei pastures are not very extensive but rain forest was destroyed only less than a score of years ago in order to create them. Lutillus is apparently common in them now. After lunch went up again to Aginen village, this time to find one man and a lot of women & children at home. The old fellow pointed out several localities to me (see next p.) and showed me the road to Uberi. The village, which stands on the very tip of the ridge affords a wonderful view of the country all around (exc. NW). The Koiari seem a happy lot. A few years back they [illegible] a
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reputation as sorcerers. They are an independent tribe however if the [illegible] boys don't come I doubt very much whether I'll be able to induce these people to carry. Goldie R. Warirale Raba Lagola R. Elego Bisiataba Ogpet Koi-Tala Tumbea Mogibiri (ghilbirei ?) Gap in range visible from Agiram and Partnersby Espartment of Astrolabe Range I could not get in the following features which belong at the top: Scale roughly: 1 mile = 1 inch See also p. 12 Uberi? Uberi Ht. about 3500 ft. Goldie R. Agiram I walked along from Agiram to the little settlement of Koiari (no one at home) It's been onto the sketch map at th.
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W. end of the ridge. Oaks growing along the ridge while I reckon as about 2000 feet. the Maguire region looks like a patchwork of forest & green country, the forest mainly in the valleys. Saw one of the plantations destroyed with an axe, which he had hewed out in the grass. Others badly cut up. He tried a new stunt: four boys armed with light, thrashed sticks walked along the track ahead of me waiting for bats to fly through the team. Several did but not one was hit. Then we tried a stationary team with the boys lined up alongside it. Only one bat came - & it left unharmed. A further exasperating thing: The tree-tops were full of large bats (we could hear the beat of their wings), but I couldn't get even a gleam of an eye in the light. Light rain began at 9 pm. Then. Feb. 4. A poor bit from the trap, even though adding a species to the collection: Melanops derivatives journal, The new- one (in this locality) Echinoptera (jun.) Started out with a hobarse to look for a bat cave up the hill east of us. Worked up onto rain divide between Laloki & Goldie mine system. Plenty of big trees & plenty of holes for trapping at 650 meters track leaves the crest of the ridge and dips down into the ravine where bats live. First continued to top of hill which forms one side of the pass over to Kamp Walch (the hill I climbed from Stiki forms the other side). The summit was reached at 820 meters (2650 feet). Does mean the top a bit smaller but still drove enough to cut off the view only scraps of summits could be seen. Some big rocks near the top of the preceding agglomeration. Returned to 650 form, part then stepped down into the main ravine of the Goldie. The bat "caves"
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have been formed by water clearing out the debris from around enormous blocks of agglomerate which fill the bottom of the ravine. I had expected snake bats & was armed with a torch or . Instead they were four big Dobsonia. Clinging to the rocks somewhat inside, I revealed my shy, for they flew away before we fully realized what was leaping. The noise of our descent of a particularly steep, slipping place apparently startled them. The altitude of the "cave" was 550 meters - how my boy Arie knows the place I shall send him over the ridge again to see whether he can surprise them. Tomorrow I'm going out again - this time south, after another "cave" Inco the police by way here when I got back. He refused that his messenger did not go through to Efopi. So I'm going on with the rest of my plans & hope he may have someone to carry when I come back for the Kamp Welsh side. The Korari who acted as guide knew - "Udu majoni" (= either Macropus frenzii n Dendrolagus) - the kangaroo, Peroryctes broadbanti ("majoni modu"). But he did not recognize my description of Daoryurus. So apparently the thar does not fit down so low. He remarked that the Peroryctis and Dendrolagus are all killed off on this side. The former certainly is not because we have recently had a young specimen of it. We had the last sticks on the job tonight again - one more bat - It appears to be another species of Pipistrellus but with rufous undeparts, and from 36. That of the other is 29. Note at Tarvie 31, 32. Fri. Feb. 5. A very poor trap morning: 1 Peromyscus sp. f, manner 1-2 = 6, tail up-curling at tip, taken at foot of tree; 1 leptmys possibly elyana, taken in steel trap upon which it apparently jumped, tail thick, no white nose spot as in Jey. R. sfd. Eyes small, f ad.; 1 Melops probably plethys (at any rate new to locality); 3 Rattus marder. The last caught had mygerhas stri
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refuse marks on under surface. R 27, P b The terminal 4/5 mm of the tail of Leptonyx is white. He recorded type locality (if you can call it such) is "British New Guinea". Further possibilities for this region are: a Phasolei of the male group; Philogen leucippus (above Rona), Eudromicia and Distoechurus, Dactyloxax, another Pseudocheirus, another melonys, Anisonyx, Hymyx, Forentzmyrs and Hydromyx, and quite a number of additional bats. This morning started arrangements for the mule trip to Tavacori (15 miles). Sent two boys out to try the Dizonia place once more (see yesterday, p. 5), but they reported that no bats were there at all; two other boys with net, nephew + matches on saving commission. They picked up two: a female and sub-adult male of the petioled-eared Hiphoderus (?) See nos 3502, 3485, 3311, 3005, etc. Note that #s 3311-3312 were also mother's son. The tree from which the present two (3501-3502) were taken was very dry and with the hole at the ground level (as usual with these bats). On the underside of the leaves of a small shrub growing in the front at the edge of a stream I found literally hundreds of small moths clustering. Saved some. Pyralids, I think. How am I going to get here fruit bats? (I'm just come in ahead of it, shiver.) With the light switched off I can just see them sail by orchard just over the tree tops. I can hear them settle with much flapping of wings. But I can't see to start at them. And with the light on they are invisible. Their eyes seem not to shine at all. I suspect they are the same species of Dizonia (if they were) that flew out of the grotto yesterday. But the several Dizonia I've had dealings with already as far as hardwicks, wallerby, etc. then seem to be none. The region is pretty much shot out. Many hundreds of
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L. 27, P. 7. boys are employed on the several rubber plantations nearby & any scrap of meat they can pick up is so much eaten. Perhaps we'll do better in the camp (next but one) at Barueri Rest House. Sat, Dec. 6. Shivery last night. Catch (besides some half-grown Rattus praetor which I did not keep): 1 Rattus mordax, 1 & Stenomys recurvurus (the third &; I lock the female still); 1 Uromys and 1 Rattus of the brownii or concolor group. The two latter are new for this camp and the least is new to the collection. It was caught among second growth adjoining a native garden. The Uromys was taken in forest. The new rat has the tail black beneath as well as on top, as in R. praetor. Had a note from Godson this morning that rather puts another of my plans out of joint. He can't let me have mules to Tavareri. I have written back to ask for them instead as far as Barueri, as the road that far is said to be not too bad. Also if I can go that far I can take three boys & a couple of days' port & so gym light to the hot caves. But if I can't get to Barueri by mule it will mean doing more scouting for carriers - and carriers seem as scarce as hens' teeth. Sun, Dec. 7. Moved out of rest house to main road (about 3 hours of carrying for my five boys) where Mr Brewster kindly brought his motor truck and took everything in to the store. This in preparation for more to Barueri Rest House some miles E, said more to be either tomorrow or Tuesday. Mr Godson, though he can't let me have mules for the entire trip to Tavareri (the part beyond the rest house being over very bad road), has agreed to let me have mules as far as the rest house on Tuesday. Meanwhile I'm staying with the Brewster who kindly offered me a room. Hope to extract facts from their house tomorrow. The possibility of getting to Efori is not thwart. This
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L. 27. P. 8. morning two native police passed thug on their way to Kokoda. I sent any message by them to the Efogi people, offering good pay if they would come out and carry my cargo in. Eveso they may not do so, and in any case I need not expect them for two weeks. In the p.m. Brewer I went along to see Johnson. Mon. Feb. 8. Fair and sunny morning. Arranged the Cargo for the rude trip tomorrow (5 miles). In the evening we met with a corner of Brewster's home for bats. They were very shy of coming out, but with nearly total darkness some came our way one for 14 all Pipistrellus. Tues. Feb. 9. Up early. Sun mist but clear and sunny later. Bats all skins except 2 juvenal (very as). Twelve adults all female, and only one of them with an embryo (rather small). So probably not the breeding season. The two young bats (1S+?) probably left over from the previous reproductive period. Left about 10:20 + reached Barauari rest home about 1 pm. The last hour road rather up and down (intervals 100 to 200 feet) on slight climb. Rest house built off on a ridge switly NW-SE and valleys on either side parts of Kemp-Welch system. Most of afternoon went by in fixing up camp gear. However we got out 50 traps (40 net, 10 steel) with which to sample the fauna. melampy lutillus (or musculus?). Another paragraph in the life history notes of this species: When clearing away some cut grass by the camp a boy uncovered the nest of one. Built like a bird's nest on the ground, it appeared made of shredded grass blades. The external diameter was six inches; internal about 2". It was rather deep but led me off than them the
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L. 27. P. 9 loose cut paws (quite dry & brown) beneath which it was drier. It contained two young (the usual number) which squeaked and scampered actively about. They were 3ft from and though in somewhat juvenile gelge were readily recognisable as belonging to the small paws Pulemys species. Heavy showers of rain swept through the pass and along the sides & tops of the high mountains N. of us. In evening went back along the road with light, but saw only the eye of a night hawk. About 4 m. the road starts to wind down off the end of the spur - probably for 5 thousand feet or so. Feb. 10, Wed. Putting two boys in charge of the camps at Baruari, I took the other 3 and bat-collecting equipment + food for a faradays and pushed on down to Taraveri. Left at 9 am + an'd about 11.30. Stayed at the plantation house, a pleasant rough place. Taraveri is a small coffee estate owned by B.N.G. and is in carge of a half-cast named Kevin. The territory is very hilly, the altitude 220 meters (at the house on the hill above the factory), and the Musgrave River runs through it. In the afternoon we tackled the first of the two caves. About 2 miles E., it is reached by a rough, ridgy track through forest. The main entrance is of sink-hole type but has a sloping entrance. One hears the flap of wings almost at once. In about 30 feet of what may be termed vestibule the main vault-like chamber is reached - roughly circular and about 50 feet in diameter with the deeply pitted and recessed
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roof 30 feet overhead. Light filters in through another entrance, and the bats, whose eyes glowed orange-yellow as they hung in small groups, were escaping there. Now tried to go out by the way we entered as I had two lamps posted there with sticks & all they saw was a swift. On the opposite side of the caverns a low tunnel dipped steeply to a lower level (30 feet down) where it bent T-fashion, the right arm, though large beginning to ascend again, while the left arm continued gradually downwards. This arm is the main drain of the caverns and a miniature stream originates there. The cave is dissolved out of limestone, stalactites & odd-shaped formations being common. In many places the original beds of rock nearly vertical can plainly be seen. The T-shaped part is the residence of a much smaller bat (Nyctophilus ?) whose eyes do not shine. The left branch wanders down through a series of chambers becoming progressively smaller & narrower until the roof drags down to a mere 2 feet above the floor and the walls are only a yard apart - the stream goes on down however. All told this part may be 200 or 300 feet long. We returned to the outside with 32 Dobsonia, 12 Nyctophilus and two cave-rostriscripts (a small colony in the left arm of the T). I saw also rocks, spiders & some kind of Centipedes. Seven only of the Dobsonia were males. The sexes of the other lot were about evenly taken. Two nursing young Dobsonia (the members of the wings almost without pigment) were brought down. Then, Dec. 11, when skinning Dobsonia noticed beside the usual actively running "bed-lies" a yellow mite and what is apparently a true louse - both fixed in the membrane. Today went to the other cave, a mile S of the
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5. 27, P.11 plantation and across the Musgrave. Evidently someone was washing one of the creeks for went up as the water was discolored & very muddy. This cave entrance was almost Spirit-like and a scaffold had to be improvised to fit down the 12 feet to the floor of a narrow fissure beyond which a few bats could be seen flickering. Though small & narrow this cave is complex and one has to watch one's step. Of the two species of Rhinolophus (?) living there 4 of one and 13 of the other were secured. Three young were discarded. Saw a crab (in water), a frog, and swarms of midges down there in the darkness. The guide to both cave entrances was an old Koiari. He seemed to know all the twists & turns of the caves, but it is to be wondered how he ever found the hardihood to explore them originally assuming he had to use native torches to give light. I saw small tinders brought in in the evening. Fri. Feb. 12 Left Tarauere before light at a great hurry so as to get up the hill before the sun became too hot. Back at Baravari by 7.45. Boys all OK & camp in good order. Now going to set rat traps. A letter from Godson to say that Rend is coming by the "Royal Endeavour" due in Marecly about next week. Went out this p.m. along track of a prospector's survey. The country very steep and ridgy, forested, Gorro and Kanamoa all putting their traps out that way. A few trees have good-forking bat-holes. The drains all run away & from here but whether it flows east to the Musgrave or whether to the Salski I don't know. On the N. side the main valley of the Musgraves cuts us off very completely. There Teikenda are setting traps, all soft-traps are to be ties or vine sets for three days; thus
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L. 27. P. 12 We are making a real drive to get those arboreal creatures Echimomys forbesi and Popinomys loirae. Lisa who has the steel traps to set cannot get his traps into the trees so readily, but when opportunity offers he will do so, and so here's hoping. The map situation (the eastern part of p.3) seems to work out much as follows. estimated 3500 feet Goldie Laloki 1850p Sygeri aElogo 3000 Latinal aMoroka Musgrave Javareci 2600 700 Bariere H K Can't tell whether these streamlets go W. to the Laloki or E. to Kempwelch. Scale: 1 m = 1 inch It is clear that the Laloki and the Musgrave are lock to lock with the divide separating them - a divide which is very much more complex than the above sketch suggests. 200 rat traps and 40 steel are now out. The latter will be baited tomorrow. To the list in p.1 we add: Echimys forbes, Rattus of the coneate pop another sp. of Pipistrellus, Leptomys, Melomys platyops?, and from Javareci caves, Dolomys, a second species of Nyctophilus, and two Rhinogphers (total, 9 more). Sat. Feb.13. winds of gale force + driving rain most of the night. Supposed Rend & Bros are at sea on the "Royal Endeavour" with the storm NW behind them.
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L. 27. P. 13. a rather choice lot? (traps in traps): the female of Leptomyrs elegans, the female of Pheseojales murus, a young ? Urmys?, Melomys maco?, and the common Rattus praetor. Leptomyrs from a tree-or vine-trap that's fully adult is very much smaller than the male taken a few miles west of here. manus 2nd 0-2=4. Lacks the pad at the base of the 5th toe (present in R.+ Melomys). Pheseojales also from a tree-trap is also much smaller than its male. The mammary formula is, 2 pairs = 4; the pouch undeveloped but the milk area with hairs present, hands & feet brown, tail well haired, dorsal pelage brownish gray. I went with Lira this morning to look at his steel traps and to put bait (menio) over each. Saw track of Peroryctis the large bandicoot which I so want to get. If one of the boys saw a caraway today. This pm. went S. along the morooy trace for quite a way. Actually perhaps a mile but it is a very up- and - down mile. Found an old Koirai hunting track which comes back all the way along the divide, and actually the trace has a heading about 200° (20° W. of S.) So far as I can work it out so far the opposite drawing shows how the water parties snakes about, and what a lot of rides lead one lastly (downward) The Koirai trail is a bit around about but it in relative speaking level; whereas this is at least a 100 ft interval at each side of fork of the companion trace. The letters A K T S indicate where Arin and Tailkudo, Kanemorie and Groo (with not traps). And Lira will steel traps here their sets. So technically A + S are in the Murgrave draught and K on the Laloki. Sun- Jul. 14. Wea. improved: no rain and much less wind. Catch pm., still the quality too fair. Poponym lipidos in a tree-trap; also a young Rattus murdes up
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L. 27. D. 14 a tree. Went along the Koriai tracks trying to "sulphurize" tails of from hollow trees. Got a very small, dark flight fur out of one, which I am saving for Rend. In this else, a curious reptile located this fm. Went out at once. The animal, all but impossible for me to see, was hidden in a dense mass. I vines a leaves that melted together the foliage of a quite small tree almost 4 inches in diameter. It was too close to shot, and when I got away a bit, I couldn't see the animal. So while we lay cut away around trees the other kept jerking at some wires, all of which made the animal so uneasy that he came out turned from to another, bigger tree. He was knocked over in nets. It proved to be its young phase (jungle) of Phalops maculatus, ?, and adds a species to the Astrolabe Range collection. Out "jacking" last night but saw only a night hawk. Mon. Dec 15: Clear, rather cold, not much wind. Traps gave poor results: 3 Rattus mygins, 1 Melomys naso? This fm. Goto shot a very fine brown Phalops, with indents white back to half the pouch. Tail slender, and much of its bare. Two young in the pouch, namely 2 pairs (No. 5392-4). The young are ? + ?. In the adult ? the epepubic lines measure 50 mm. and are strongly curved (?). In the juvenile ? the testis not yet developed. The pouch of the ?-? very small and rudimentary in appearance. She old ? with good fat beneath the skins. Rain into this fm. clear again tonight. Barometer reading (1 pm) 69.° (Just 500 meters).
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Tue, Dec. 16. Walked down to Sogni & back, seven miles each way and as I had to go on for another 1/2 mile to Gordon's farm the phone thursday I reckn I touched if 15 miles in all! I learned from Dupain of B.P.C. that the "Royal Endeavour" with Brown & Reed or (was presumably) left Dawn yesterday and is due in Moresby Friday or Saturday. Also Seal of A.W.A. told me that messages have passed between Reed & Archbold and that, though he could not divulge their contents (naturally), every th seemed all right. Arranged with Gordon for the mailer to come up flight us down to Sogri next Monday. That will give us six more trapping nights for this camp. Also Reed struck down where he stands & is able to tell me. Bats seem scarce. I took two trips with sticks + the parabolic lamp and tried out various places along the trail. Only two bats were seen and neither returned to the light. Perhaps it is so strong that it repels the animals. Wed. Dec. 17 Sting winds from midnight onwards an excellent trap morning; mozzies for this camp are Stenomya recurvata & (still lack th ?); a small, black-tailed Melomy, and the ? of Phaseopus milenura. In addition there were several Melops nero (?) and Rallus mordax. The Phasoptele has a minimum formula of 2 pairs as with P. morax. Brown which we took abundantly at Daviumbai had 3 pairs. (See also next p.) The black-tailed Melomy is apparently new to my Astrolabe fauna list. Its underparts are pure white if it is related to some we caught in the H.R. area. I have made two announcements to the trip this morning; one, the amount of specimen trays each has earned during the past month; and, two,
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L.27. P.16. the fact that they are entering their last month of work, after which I shall go away & they will be returned to their village & paid off. I added that I believed that each one of them could easily double his normal output. We shall see. For house (five) ranging from a total of 60 cents (American) to $1.10 we have now spent 195 specimens covering 27 species, which includes one new species, Pone (at least) new record for Papisa and the rediscovery of Septomyr elegans. The Pharegal when opened looked as if it had its reproductive system arranged as follows: The interior uterine horns very short; large swellings below each horn, perhaps corresponding to the two pouches which were still too close to go wide in enlargements; no median anterior sac as in Petromys. Compare with uterine arrangement of Pharegal and of Deinomylt. Old silver rat (Crocus) came by & detailed at great length the honors of the road (advocated by Kevin J Tavareri) between T. and Egozi. And let us the village policeman called up from Moska to see if he could do anything for us. I told him to get us a tree kangaroo. Thur. Feb.18. Stormy weather with stray birds from 11 o'clock last night on. In traps: 1 Chromys, 3 Melmys new (?), and Hydromys (which I had not even put on my list for the Astrolak Highlands). The latter taken with a steel trap alongside a little creek in the forest. This morning took the first bats in this camp - Hipposiderus with the pointed ears. Gross & Karamnia had found a large tree with a hole in it about 20 feet from the ground, a long stick had been poked into it & two bats came out and (actually) flew away. Gross was orderly for today; so I think K,
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L. 27. P. 17. Last night the two + do the climbing; hoping that the bats might have returned. We leaned two poles against the tree + tied on a cross piece just below the hole so that the boy might sit them off and his hands free. He was tape + I passed him up the butterfly net + matches + matches on the end of a rush-ape. He announced that he could feel the bats. The nephew did not bring them out (probably my draft to make it penetrate), so I sent up a stick with which, hold the net over most of the opening, he fiddled + rattled about till hatched. First one, a minute later the other flew out into the net. There were no more. They turned out on inspection to be the pointed-eared bat of which we have caught quite a few—almost always two (mother + child). In this case it was mother + daughter. And we knew that the daughter could fly well because she flew away yesterday. After lunch went to see new traps of Aia & Tainards. I find that (probably inspired by the capture of Hydrusps this morning) they have transferred their entire line of traps to the bottom of a deep ravine in the front, with a mill of water flowing in it. I suppose their line is quite half a mile long. Some very dry trees are growing almost at the water edge. A bit later I went out with Lisa to see the steel traps. The Hydrusps was caught in one I set for him the other day as a demonstration. His live ptes all on the place, up hill & down dale—simply miles of it seeming. This O. Oct. 19. In spite of heavy rain after midnight, a good catch came in; chiefly from careful nets + whilst I think : Another lazy & Phaeoglyde murex, another 7 fiftamps elegans, one melampus nero, three m. levisper, and 3 Pterus murex. Another stray catch—was one of th
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least parrots (saved for Penn) in a net-trap set on a tree trunk about 3 feet from the ground in front. Both the Phascogale and the Leptomyx were this time caught in steel traps in the ground close to the base of large forest trees well above water. My hope for all their good behavior + cheerfulness are still little savages; they prefer squatting to sitting at the work table when they do their skinning. The table is of sticks, & a bit bench of poles leans along either side. All four skinners are at present squatting on the benches, knees up to their chins, while they skin the day's catch of rats. Sat. Feb. 20. Fair. No storm last night. Catch very valuable: a new species of *Lorentzimy* and another speck of the *Rattus concolor* grp; *Melomys* leperus and M. moro (?) ; two *Rattus mordax*, two R. *proctor*. *Lorentzimyx* taken in two traps 6 feet off ground, in fruted ravine on large tree. 2 young female, no embryos. Head unfortunately badly bitten bythrop. Characteristic form of ears, life tongue, feet & hands slender; gean furred in my opinion; tail rather long, well taired. Color rather dark brown (young), underparts slight whitish gray, lacer gray-leased, a faint median breast line beneath feet grayish. Manners: could find only the 2 pairs of inguinal but glands under often suffered a pair of axilla (Compare with # 2265 of *Rattus Trevelyan*). Paws or feet small, the pad emining in leptomyx is present in Lorentzimyx. *Rattus* (*cf concolor* grp). There have remarkably long-todies after the fashion of weasels, # 3630. See also # 3523. A second of the tiny parrots was caught today in another trap - also a tree trap! Korai people have been roaming toward Tavoreri in a constant stream today. I understand there is a big celebration coming off in one of their villages. Sun. Feb. 21. Traps fine: one *Melomys* nero, one *Rattus mordax*. Toots have well rest up onto the fruted ridge
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6.27, P. 19 To the north of the road to Segui. Some rough going but at last we struck Korari tracks that took us over the ridge crests & avoided much unnecessary climbing. We shot two Phalanger, another from one ?, and a gray one ♂ like the ♀ I shot last year at Rona. I feel convinced that two species are involved, not a dichromatic simple species. The differences set out below are unfortunately not conclusive owing to the differences in the size of the animals compared, but here goes: Gray Phalanger ♂ Brown Phalanger ♀ 1. The front of rhinoceros not deepy cleft. deeply cleft. 2. Longest fore claw 6 mm. Longest fore claw 7.5 mm. 3. hind " 15 mm. " hind " 17 mm. 4. Under surface of tail with lateral proximal 140 mm. rough. Under surface of tail with proximal 120 mm. relatively smooth. 5. Tail length = 46% Body Tail length = 49%. Body 6. Diameter of tail at terminals of hair, 17 mm. Diam. of tail at terminals of (tail appearing thicker) hair, 13 mm. (tail appearing relatively thin). 7. Tail diam = 4.4 % above tail diam. = 3.3 % length 8. Color pattern --- ( no difference can be seen in the case. The ♀ (brown) has) (2 small pink yeeps. 9. Epiplures 40 mm.; spread of tips 57. (little curved) Epiplures 60 mm.; spread of tips 60. (style curved) Today's walk which produced the two occurrences took just six hours. For the first time in my life I have seen sparks struck by a bush-knife against the thin, wiry mountain flambro grass. Grasses are supposed to contain a bit of silica, & the sparks that came twice were unmistakable.
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L.27. P.30 Mon. Feb. 22. Moving day. And just luck to get the 7 of Stimmys serendus at last. The mammy formula in 1-2=6 as in Rattus morder. The specimen very good but after I had made the catalogue entry (#3641) I examined the skin from the inside, after the dry had skinned it, and there is no mistake about the formulsted. Set down to Eperis - settled down at Johnson's place. Heavy rain in afternoon. No word yet of the "Royal Endeavour" 4 days overdue. Wed. Feb.24. Heavy ground mist but fair day. Set 250 traps along stream in pastures. Torrential rain in pm. Had traps go out afternoon & reset. Wed. Feb. 25. Big catch of corn-thigs: Green Melmys, 13, Rattus fractin; 7, Rattus morder x 2, R. of cornthrn jumps, 2. Also took 3 small rails, only which I saved for Rand. Thursday, Feb. 25. Another Phascolale murex also 24 rats & mice in traps. Leaving for Moreby at once but will return here tomorrow. Closing letter #27
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L. 28. P.1. Port Moody, Thurs. Feb. 25. Closed # 27 in a hurry for the mail this p.m. Rand is leaving on the "Stella Polaris" for Java; Brown on the "Macdhu" for Brisbane. Plan to return in the morning to the mountains. Fri. Feb. 26. Stayed one and then day to have last try at jutting carriers. Hemphries, R. M. has undertaken to do what he can, & has given me a letter to Horan (now at Stiki) to help out. Adamson & Speedy in town. Ivan Champion still at Rona. Enlarged Astrolabe map 3-times with pantograph today. Rain yday pm & today since 7 o'clock am. Leaving it morning. Sat. Feb 27. Had tea yesterday with Armit & W^m Lee. He told me somethng of H.O. Forbes who first collected Pygmyps jukes (one of the two species Slack) He came out as a British Museum Collector. But was given a government patrol job which helped him with his collecting while moving about or he did, was also useful to the Government. Left this a m. at 7.15. Rona shot 10. Saw Ivan Champion. Passed between Rona & Sogeri joined the A.R.M. Met Horan & presented a letter from the P.M. Mr Hemphries regarding jutting carriers. Heavy rain began at 2pm Sunday, Feb 28 - A couple of good things in the traps in addition to th common stuff: another 2 Leptomp elegans and and two outbred Malomys and a numbe
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L.28. p.2. If Common Matters. Saw R.M., Mr. Humphries this morning & he instructed the local village policemen to carry my baggage to Uberi & thence another relay to Dori Bida, rc. It looks sorry for the mountain trip but I don't. We picked up troops & start out in the morning. Monday, Mar. 1. Everything packed & ready, but only 13 of the promised so Koiaris turned up. That's just the way with these things (and of course Humphries has gone back to Indochina). Well I have an envoyeur police boy, Intudi by name who was personal try to Willis on the Fly R. trip. Humphries detailed him on the Fly R. trip. Humphries detailed him to me. So I have him skurrying around trying to pick up half a dozen more carriers. Meanwhile I have let the 13 (3 of them are women) carry their part of the cargo across the river & up to Cowcow's village where they will wait till tomorrow morning. This afternoon the local village police secured 3 more Koiaris & himself will carry, so with those if we can get away, I think. Perhaps it is just as well we are delaying, as one of my boys - Gorro has developed some fever today. Later. Dysenteric symptoms appear with Gorro. Stall have to leave him behind. Tuesday, Mar. 2. Made stretches of rice bags & the other bags carried by, down to the rubber company's hospital where Brewster has kindly offered to care for him during my absence. Consequently I only got away from Johnson's place at about 9.15! I'll elaborate the first day's itinerary, rc over page.
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L. 28, P. 3. From Agiama 10 a.m. (575 m.); creek (460 m.); high, (600 m.); small creek, 11.15 a.m. (510 m.); high ridge, 11.50 (620 m.); Liberí creek; 12.30 (330 m.); Edetakabuna 1 p.m., village policeman Uriqi (400 m). Such are the ups and downs of one day, and although trying to get to the hills, we are actually a few meters lower than when we started. The road runs in fact quite level distance but from me or two ridge, it is possible to get a glimpse of hills + I took a few bearings with the prismatic while Bill Adamson insisted upon lending me. The Korias are indifferent carriers, they take too many steps, but they have me put truck for double loads (pole birds); each boy carries a light stick, shoulder high, with a very small crutch at the top, which they slip under the pole to support the load when they want a short rest. Liberí creek flows through a deep valley amidst huge aglomaic boulders. It is small but today was easy to cross. The village of Edetakabuna (policeman Uriqi) is just up the hill a couple of hundred feet above the crossing. A gray coccus with sting dorsal line was brought in just after we arrived. It had been carried away from the rocks of Liberí mountain by a dog with a dog. There is at least one cat here — of the prevailing TortoiseShell here. I served out a meal of rice + fried fish for the carriers (four women, three small boys + two babies in arms included). Some (the adults) chose wheat; others eats. My rate of pay is 1 shell or if sticks of tobacco. Then they all said Good bye & called off back to their village.
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L. 28, P. 4. Things are now as noisy as they sometimes seems. Uripi has only two carriers from me and lay pig to a place a few miles down rivers can get at mine - perhaps. This means that I must leave some baggage and send back from Doulawa in it. - Which isn't quite so tall as at first sight it seems because I had planned to stay over a day at that place in order to look at the high country ESE of it. A couple of bats flying above the village clearing just at dusk, two large fat Pipistrellus. I'll try to sample them on the way but. Wed. Mar. 2. Got away from Uripi at 7.15, but had to leave 2 boxes of traps to be brought along tomorrow. Here's the day's high lights: Crest of Uripi range, 9.10 (720 m.); bottom of next valley at junction of two main streams, 10.55 (250 m.); fort of next hill, up to Doulawa 12.15 (1 hour for ford); Doulawa next house on ridge, 3 pm (790 metres). The road runs E at first then rises steeply to the first crest. The north side of the ridge from Uripi is exceedingly steep and slippery. On both sides, in the stream beds, highly contorted sedimentary rocks appear to underlie the agglomerates. The south side of Doulawa hill though very forested has now grass on the ridge up which the track for which made the climb in the early afternoon almost perfectly flat. And I was proud to understand too that Doulawa was far higher than its actually 2500 feet. The trouble is that we lost a whole different foot going down into the valley between Uripi + Doulawa. There are two villages here, one east, one west of the next home or apparently plenty of carriers. Tomorrow I shall give my traps a spell while I go and try out the high ground east of
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4.28. P.S. This place. This ridge is not the divide between the [illegible] & Salshi rivers. The next one is th[r]. N. of here is a stream (down about 100 feet I guess) which works around west to the Goldie River. 5pm The police boy Uriqi & 3 others have just come in with the trap-bows, so now we have everyone here. The day's hand in action, seen from the SE is about as follows: [Diagram] Some vegetable crops [illegible] included: sweet potatoes, maniocas, rather bitter cucumbers and chicken corn. One of the huts here is conical (tipi-shaped) +thatched, all over with perdone leaves. I noticed the aykoneticos once more coming up to Laibawa hill, but here on the top the exposures are schistose - much contorted. The horizontal trace of where we have come is about: [Diagram]
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L.28. P.6. Thur. Mar.4. Gave the boys a spell while I took my polar by a two loads to try to find accessible high ground on the mountains E of us. We were out ten hours, the last four in torrents of rain. The road went endlessly up-down ridges beyond the village E of us until we reached the main divide between the Brown & Goldie river systems. Then it went up at an angle of 40° with nearly precipitous slopes on either side. From 3500 feet it was practically a knife-edge but steeply tilted. A firm covered, very small flat was reached at noon, altitude 4900 feet. We were popped in & could see little or nothing but I found that we were still on a spur where crest was too jagged & irregular to be at one parallel. A few days (while I can't spare) of road metering would be needed. The mist lifted for a few minutes - just long enough for me to get bearings on Doriava - Naro, then we went down. Leeches abundant on top of ridge. Giant acacia at 3000 feet. Boy cut his leg with bush-knife but it's large it is on the skin not deepens. I tied it up with moss leaves & treated it at camp. Down at the village they gave me some boiled sweet potatoes & didn't they taste good! And then have needed to get back to the rest house. Plenty of sugarcane & bananas in the farmlands here. Leaving tomorrow for Naro. Fri. Mar.5. Left Doriava at 7.15 - steeply down to stream at 520 meters; then a steep pull up, interrupted once only by a small stream to an ultimate crest reached at (9.20 - 1040 meters or about 3400 feet, - the tree divide between the Brown and Goldie rivers. There is a steep descent followed by a gradual fall, follow- ing the course of the river to the Naro rest house; down at 6.15pm. Reached just at noon. All is in heavy mist. There seem to be plenty of leeches. Some Macari boys who lived there down to look at
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the Brome river report it is too high at 1.28. P. 7 present for us to cross. The village policeman - name Girivi - seems to have more influence than is usually found in Papua. He readily secured some new trips for me to go on to Emoia tomorrow and also loads of yam, sweet potatoes, taro, cucumber, corn. So I saved my rice & fed the boys on local food. Haoro (the resthouse) is in a hollow where no mountains are visible. The village is a mile or so east & on a small hill. Heavy rain from 3pm till midnight. Sat. Jan. 6. Left haoro at 7.15; reached crest of high ridge (3300ft) at 10; and down to Emoia (2400 ft) at 10.45 -- a short morning. I arranged yesterday for 15 carriers to go right through with me & the part off at Sojeri when we get out. This means that I have to buy food for them, but it also means that I shall have only half a dozen to hire at each village. The system seemed to work all night at Emoia: I fed 28 hungry boys at noon today for one stick of taros and 4 tablespoons of salt. The food included sweet potatoes, taro, corn, pineapple, watermelon, cucumber. Have decided to try to reach Kagi tomorrow instead of breaking the journey at Eforji. I see that Adeson did it recently in 6½ hours. His timing was: to Eforji, 2¾hrs; Eforji to Nadumuma 1hr 25 min; Nadumuma to Kagi, 45 min. And it will save me a day each way. The village policeman are respectively, for Emoia, Misimi; for Nadumuna, Iliki; for Kagi, ? The S.D.A. has apparently a firm grip on these people. He arrived on their Sunday (today is Sat.) & the native teacher ringing his bells lustily had every one of them in church three times since our arrival. He is --
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a nice old chap, tho we can hardly be L.28. P.8. said to understand each other, and she brought me pineapples & tomatoes as lib. These people though still Karia are very different from the sophisticated crowd around Itki, whom I tried so hard to persuade to carry for me a month ago. I asked for six boys this evening to go through to Kagi and 8 jumped forward - all husky lads so I left them to settle among themselves, where they'll be left out. Sun. Jun. 7. Well, it has been a hectic day all right. We left Enroia at 7 a.m. - down to a lake (620 metres); a steep climb up a ridge side and continued along its crest to a clearing reached at 9.15 (1300 m.), named Tabunuma. Wonderful view where cloud did not interfere. I found the people had laid out quantities of tree, sweet potatoes, watermelons, pawpaws & pineapples neatly on beds of leaves - like a market place - in anticipation of our arrival. I brought a few pawpaws for the boys to eat at once, but told the inhabitants that I could only buy their food if they would bring it on with us to Kagi. Nothing left, they did. Well, there was Efogi down below us on the side of a huge basin-like valley with lesser valleys fluting its sides like rays - and across the way, seeming on a level with us was Kagi our destination; but with this difference, we at 4200 feet were on a ridge. But Kagi (on a small ridge) nestled among huge hills that loomed around it & rose above it for at least another 3000 feet. We got down to Efogi at 11.30 (1125 m.); then due to one river (860m), over a ridge (970m) & then go to the Efogi R. (860m); Then a huge climb brought us to Tabunuma (1300 m.); a sharp dip to a lake at 1140 m., and another substantial climb to Kagi our destination, (1450 m.). Approx. 4700 feet then is our open air verandah for about a week to come. The Ivoria village policemen came along with us, and
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L.28.P.9. The Needhamman man turned up some after we arrived. He is the old fellow I gave a lift to on the truck coming out from Inoway the other day. Rain started just as we arrived. A miserable place, the prominent shepher of the forest description; moisture water is a long way away. However I've rigged up a tent fly to catch rain water. I prevailed on 4 carriers to try their luck with 10 mmx traps and a steel trap a piece. Tomorrow however will be our first big day of trap-setting. Well, things will look far brighter in the morning. They always do. I have a good heap of spruce trees already down nearly 100 lbs of rice, so we are pretty safe from starvation. Mar.8 Mon. Kopi policeman in the morning- were luna. The traps set yesterday caught 1 Petters (correct grape), and 2 Stonerups. The latter are quite distinct from those at the 1500 ft level, being much smaller. These cactus, the beautiful, black, soft-jawed Phalognus sericus brought in by local from a few hundred feet above camp. He states that the old females + the juveniles were inside & hollow tree, the adult male he outside (#8 3682-4). We are busy now getting the mass of the traps out, and if this morning's catch can be taken as an indicator we should have a big crop of specimens tomorrow. Today all but two of the carriers (who had few) took at traps; and one regular trap put in them; + I put out mine- &c. There must be quite a large native population here. Great quantities of the forest has been cut off the hill- sides to make room for gardens, so that at first glance the valley has a quite civilized appearance. The rostrum of the underside of the tail mentioned in connection with the gray crocus (L.27, P.19) is in Sericus definitely of sex characters; the male is rough, the female smooth.
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magnetic L.28. P.10. Following are bearings taken with Adamson's prismatic during the trip. From Pona Pt: Lebei Hill 43 Brester Pr 72 Manif 54-61\frac{1}{2} SugarLoaf 66 Itike Pr 89 From Johnston hock: Uteii Hill 358 Breuster Pr 51 Itiki Pr 99 W.s.d. Ubei 344 T. hill : T. house 20 W.and Ubei 344 E " 7 Little Ubeii 16\frac{1}{2} Breuster Pr 46 From Agiamaaa : Breuster Pr 92 Hombron 270 Utebi Hill 360 From Adakadebua: Brester Hill 120 ? Head Ubeii R. 100 Ubei Hill 320 Ridge just crossed 267. From Doriheira Lage hill E 91 Upper Village Hill SE 120. Lower Pr 98 Hill W. 268 Wbei N notch 23\frac{1}{2} " pass 209° Little Ubeii 192° From "Eaton Hill" Doriheira 267 near tp. Nanu Village 240 From Upper Village Doriheira: Capo Ubei 247 Vietmi 342-348-354 From Ridge Doriheira-Veao: Lebei Hill 237 Dribeira 237 by hill E 116 From Taboricenu.: Pt m Doriheira "hill E", 186 PK of same 183 E end of same ridge 160 Ubei (Hill 198' E pr. 8 Ridge 35° From Kaji : Vietchi (2 Pr from to.) 203 Hombron Ridge 222 E by Taboricenu 245 Big Hill W. 270 #207
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L. 28 ; P. 11 This afternoon four Petamurus were brought to me. They were male, female + two juveniles, m. & f. All four had been taken from the same tree. I could distinguish only two manners in the pouch of the females. They apparently represent the dark race of the mountains described by me last year. Also I believe I distinguish a difference in proportion I can - light to port. Light, and in the shape of the ear, compared with P. p. flavipes of southern Papua. I forgot to note the fact that on the lower Ramfaweleh one of Willis's boys obtained a very rare species of Potoromys. I did not acquire the animals, twelve of which was taken from a saple tree. They are to go to Archbold, as we'll go over them carefully in N. Y. The Iwarias are a wild bunch - Wonderful carriers, they charge up the steep hill yelling their heads off. But no fourthly. I tried giving each a piece of Tobacco to buy himself food, or exactly what I thought they might do happened: they smelled the tobacco & then came to me + said they were hungry. Tues. Jan 9. Last night's rain only stopped at 5 a.m. and today it began again at 11 a.m. No sunshine at all. The catch was the biggest I've had yet in Papua: 37 (all rodents). It includes Rattus macr., R. (burni), Stenomys (females 2 M.), Melomys ? + species, Lestomy's (probably ernestmayri), and the & of the new forest-swigs. Everything was soaked by rain & very many, + besides, on account of the large number of specimens I had to give most of them a preservational make-up - to be re-done on their arrival at the museum. It is the first time this trip that I've had to do so. (Later, I made them all up afterwards.) The forest-swigs was caught on 7th of July. Today has been a trying one. Thirty two specimens & the weather atrocious. When the boys came back from
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L. 28. P. 12 re-baiting traps I dosed them with parsons's+ quinine. Tonight at sunset however the weather cleared + I hope that the storm is over. Have decided to move out on Saturday. I must leave some liney in case some flooded river holds us up. Once across the Kwaro- however there'll be little to trouble us in that respect. Wed. Nov. 10. Three thing new to the collect this morning: Perycelis if the ornatus group; a new skunk beetle, skunk-celid Melomya, and a very small adult & Stramps with mammaes, l=2+6. A better day, then hazy + a bit overcast, went up the tack to when it leaves this ridge + turns NNW. Approximately 6500 feet, I estimate. Two kinds of acorns on tracks in spots, one very large. A begonia with decors while fl. No very good views. A forested flat which would make just collecting place, had we the time to spare, at 6500 ft. Several Rattus of ornatus group drifted in. Stated to be caught on sweet potatoes. A female Perycelis dudobenti with large & fresh young, caught in hole beneath tree in front. about 500 feet. Scale: 1 inch = 2 miles approximate relation of the localities Efoji, Kagi, & Seregina
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L1.28, P.13. Even since leaving Doriabain I have seen only schistose rocks abounding in biotite, but they are filled with quartz and tremendously marked contorted. They break down to a very fertile soil as proved by the comparatively large native population. On the slopes approaching Doriabain from S. there were occasional pieces of agglomerate like that of Rora. At the bottom of that valley between Doriabain and Uleri I noticed much slate & shale, pretty deformed, but apparently the same as I saw in the Stici stream bed or places on the way down to Taverni. Thus, Mar. 11: A fair night & an excellent catch - 26 specimens including as the prize a pair of the rare water-rats Crossomys moncktoni; also a second specimen of Melomys gracilis? with lots of other Melmys, Sternomyx & a Rattus; a second Peroryctes of the ornatus group. Bad luck last night: a jumping dry got away with one of my three Phalanger sericeus skinks. Also Kafamokin has suddenly developed a badly swollen foot which I am giving the hot water treatment. Tonight will be our last trapping night & 2 hope to reach 100 specimens for Kagi. Again if a gray Popomys taken from the same tree - a small knot-hole. Probably this is P. dyer whose type locality is "Dinawa, Owen Stanley Range". He village policemen live near of a place called "Sinaua" or "Sinaura" on the Koterto side. The species may well extend over some 2 or 3 thousand feet of altitude and go through the "gap" when the great divide comes as low as 7300 feet. Black flies in this camp. Reverting to the collections, the Crossomys were taken in steel traps at the edge of a stream about 400 feet below camp; the Melomys gracilis I caught
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L. 28, p. 14 myself under a very large fallen log in front of the ridge. The weather has been good for two days. But rain seems to be on the way from the west. I hope it won't bring the rivers down in flood, especially The Naro, or at least that the business will be all over by Sunday (when we are due to cross the Naro). Fri., Mar. 12. Last night just at sundown a Daely Cony, strongly marked and probably D.I. friedermannii, and a maccry lobbie but were caught in. The former had been taken from a hole in a tree in forest at about 5000 feet; the latter, the first bat from this area, was found hiding in a bunch of withered leaves on a low bush or tree just below the village of Kogi and not below 2600 feet. The catch was mostly ordinary, but a bandicoot of the former Echinomys gracilis, 3 mos. old, and 2 small pinnules were caught down by the river when a tree crashed it, altitude about 4000 feet. This the higher record of altitude I have as yet for the genus. I'm not keeping the small Steatops today (our packing up day) as I have lots already, but if 8 adult ?'s found I found embryos (2) in one only. Another trio of the cactus P. sericeus was brought this morning, 25, 17. After thieving finished, busy packing. There is now more two or three month's work in and around this place. I would like to see camps on the Takranmer ridge, in the bottom of the Efori river or one of its branches, on the flat at 6500 feet reached day one March 10th, and up in the pass which Peterson states is 7300 feet. 2-3 weeks in each of those stations could just about clean up this district. 4 pm. Two more species for the list: Pseudocheirus expensus and a dry-foiled variant Pterycho. The former from
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L. 28. P. 15 a hole in water, the latter from a hole in the ground; both in front at about $500 feet. 5.30 pm. One last season of skinny: Three species of the Popomys that came in yesterday - a male and two females - all three from a tree containing one small hole. The females, one old one young, rather pregnant. Taken about 3500 feet N of river above the river mouth of us. Sat. Mar. 12. I made good time for first day outwards; around: Lupo Koji, 6.20; Takumune reached at 10; Emoria, at 12.30. Weather slightly cloudy, but a Kohoda plane flew over us - so I judge not much serious in the way of weather disturbances is in the air. I have just taken off the 8 boards of pinned specimens out of my two collecting boxes to air & dry. The dormitory (I have a room at the S.D.A. Mission) is crowded with young & old who have come to look at them. Have run against the S.D.A. Tradition after selling me some food himself; the missionary suddenly recalled that it was his salt! So the order "no more water" filtered around. Fortunately I had already bought enough food for tonight, and I'll give the top-rice for breakfast. I don't think there was the slightest bit of malice in the affair - simply that our arrival of the excitement of it made them jump then Sunday to come clustering around with food for sale. Clear, dry afternoon. The lower Plain ought to be low tomorrow. Beyond it there are no obstructions except during torrential rains which we should not have in the morning (when we do our traveling). 7 pm. An amusing sequel to the food matter. Six o'clock church service came out, and, apparently, the Saltwell ended. Because the native missionary himself was the first in the field with an
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L. 28, P. 16 offer of vegetables - through one of the women. But I observed that she gave the shilling to him after I had paid her. They also found some tomatoes for me. By the way, here people don't pare their root vegetables as we do potatoes. They chop the outer skin off in small pieces - just hold the yam or taro in one hand and chop off the skin layers. Now tomorrow should find us in Naro. Sun. day 4th. A drizzle was falling this morning, and the motor ford took an awfully long time to cross, as we did not get away until about 7.15. Made good time downwards despite of the slippery track, & got into Naro at 10.30. The view was high - much higher than when we crossed it before, but a log-jam had formed by which we crossed easily. Looked at from the eastern side the following is a section of the road from Stiki to Kapi Naroi Creek [illegible] Kakui Creek Ulue Village Tomo Creek Ioribaira Bu creek Naro Emoria Pabiotu Creek Harencua Leibi Creek Kapi gyofcanda 6 hrs. 7 hrs. 3 hrs. 8 hrs 4 hrs. Uluei Creek Stiki Ioribaira 10.30. A fine sunny day, much mud. Have unpacked the collections to give them an airing. My carriers very intrigued with caterpy ddlerflies so I have let them have the net & shown them how to kill the insect when caught. From here we can see the sea plainly, they at must be 20 miles away. Have put on another trafficking drive here. We won't have to tend to skin many but if think I can now recognize thugs at sight pretty well. I'll skin caterpy
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material anyhow as well as any type rare. 3 pm. Lina has just brought in a live male Dactylopsila which he got out of a hole in a tree. Though the tail is not prehensile at the tip, it is held by the animal (held in one's hands) in a hooked or crooked position. Traces, toes 9 mm. The 5 o'clock sun, hidden from us by a passing cloud, made the distant sea gleam like silver; later we saw a wonderfully fine sunset. An. in the extreme distance, practically due W. across the sea, I could see mountains — perhaps the Yale Island series. Tues. Mar. 16. Thick mist this morning. Also a slight set-back to our general good fortune in that Taitenko spider lost just half the ration of flour that had been left overnight to soak, so our carriers had to work on only half a breakfast. However the day's track contained only one big hill (see p. 16). We left at 8 o'clock, went down to Emue Creek, up to the crest of the Ubari range, and down again to the village which was reached at 12.30. That climb of 9500 feet is the last big one; Emmant we climb 900, a series smaller ridges that ends the job. Though nearly 100 traps were set out at Iribaira last night only 2 mammals were caught: Rattus macrourus and the large Stemmys. As both were taken up at Kayal dam that Stiki north can be learnt about the Iribaira fauna from them. The picking up of traps caused our late start today. The barometer reads at 5 pm. 420 meters. On March 2nd it read 400 at 1 pm. It's intent to catch the Koyari. They live really in total squalor. Their houses (many at least) have neither walls nor floors. The ground is dry & dusty & littered with small cooking fires. They will wipe a plate or tin cup with
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L. 28. P. 17 unclean frigus or with the filthiest rags of cloths; their ideas on sanitation are rudimentary - and yet, no Roari will (if he can help it) enter the village marking his destination at the end of a day's travel without first bathing in a stream, and no Roari will drink water from a stream crossed by a trail except at the very tip, and even then he walks ten or twenty paces upstream to be sure the water is absolutely unpolluted. They are merry, jovial people, fond of a practical joke, and picturesque with their hair tied up in a red handkerchief or bound in a tight bundle on top of the head. Wed. Mar. 17. A guba (storm) struck us about 4:30 in the morning but passed over. At dawn however it began to rain and by the time we could get breakfast over it was pouring. I had to use some verbal force to get the carriers out into the deluge. But I knew we had to cross the Mbirui river before it rose too high. We left at 7 am + going ahead, I reached Sogeri at 10 - soaked to the skin. Everything in good order. Had the pay-off of my Roaries at 11:30. They all received their money for carrying and their bonuses for tapping & then turned round & bought a lot of trade goods from me. So that was all right. Rain'd all afternoon. Soro, the boy I had to leave here in hospital, very nearly died. He is still a mere shadow of himself - but seeing his pulse took again and the news that he will shortly be sent
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L. 29 P. 18. home to his village will do much to trace him up. Thur. Mar. 18. Little doing today except packing. The roads are in bad shape after yesterday's rain. But we hope to go home to Poma tomorrow. Going to tea this afternoon with Gordon and his new wife (married March 3rd). Johnston just telling me that the plantation boys apparently know everything there is to know about me - also of my leaving the country. They tried to get him to give them things I might leave behind or throw away. One wants my old (worm out) canvas shoes ; one asked for a shirt (if I happened to leave one behind) or. Fri. Mar. 19 - The rain left night. The road mile dry. We marched down from the Depot to Poma rather slowly on account of Gordo - too slow because the storm came up the valley and drenched us before we could get into Poma. Ivan Champain still there but nearly finished. His report finished ; his map nearly so. Set out all the small types in hope of getting another of the new Phascejola (#3420) Sat. Mar. 20. In traps: Rattus (concolor g.p.), Melomys musculus but (alas) no more Phascejola. We go down to Pat Tressley today. Reached Mareely at 1 p.m. Going to pay off some or all of the trips on Monday.
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L. 30 P. #1. Sun. Mar. 21. Took all specimens if board this morning. Barom. nearly here in Moreby or little lower than it was in January : & about - 10 metres , or 73.86 mm. Mon. Mar. 22. Packing specimens , arranging business of leaving ; boys' pay-off. They put their money all right because about 5 o'clock I saw evidence that they had been spending it . All five were starty boat for Koki ( the boys' quarters at Moreby ) with a large , new paper suitcase and an umbrella. Tu. Mar. 23. Stuart Campbell flew in from the Onorilla camp on the Fly , bringing Ward Williams who was ill with fever ! Wed Mar 24. The " MacDhui " arrived from the south bringing me one letter . Mrs Woodward, wife of the former R.M. of Dawn was on board. Thurs. Mar. 25. We sailed at 9 p.m. Cork is on board ( projector & mining engineer ), He was on the ship by which we went to Papua more than a year ago. Saturday Mar. 27 Reached Cairns at 3 pm, left again at 5.30 pm. Tuesday - Mar. 30. Arrived Brisbane, Museum. Saw Sopman. Studied some types. Sat Apr. 3. Left by s.s. " Orinó " for Sydney - Apr. 5 Arrived Sydney - Anderson ( direct ) & Trumble - ( also metals ). Worked with Trumble at Museum April 6 to 9. Sat Apr. 10 Left Sydney - Apr. 12 Arr. Melbourne . Saw Director of museum McNabey ( pronounced ma'niy ) & also C W Brazier
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L.39 P.#1 Sun Mar 21 Took all specimens & board the morning Baron met him - mostly only then it was in Tun way : about - 10 minutes, or 72.85 min. Mon Mar 22 Packing specimens , anxious fussiness of leaving ; trop pay-off. They got their money all night because about 5 o'clock I saw evidence that they had been spending it . All five were starting back for Koka (the trop quarters at Moredly) with a large, new paper suitcase and an umbrella. Tue Mar 23 Stuart Campbell flew in from the Carville camp on the Fly, bringing board Williams - who was ill with fever ! Wed Mar 24 The "MacKee" arrived from the south bringing me one letter. Mr Woodward, wife of the former R.M. of Dawn was on board. Thurs Mar 25 We sailed at 9 p.m. Cork is on board (prospector & mining engineer). He was on the ship by which we went to Papua more than a year ago. Saturday Mar 27 Reached Cairns at 3 pm. Left again at 5.30 p.m. Tuesday - Mar 30 Arrived Brisbane. Dunedin Saw Symson Standard sons types Sat Apr 3 Left by s.s "Okanlo" for Sydney- Apr 5 Arrived Sydney- Worked with Trought at Muse April 6 to 9. Sat Apr 10 Left Sydney- Apr 12 an. Melbourne Saw Director of muse Makiny (pronounced Ma'ny) & also C W Brazens
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ic mammals & reptiles. Brezina not only saw me the run of his mammal collection but (being an expert photographer himself) helped tremendously in the securing of photos of skunks.. Left Melbourne 5pm on Apr.13. Apr. 15 Arr'd Adelaide. Met Director, Hale; and later Finlayson (i/c mammals). Not much time to spare. Got collection but worth a lot of work. Catalogue numbers off on most skins; also many specimens had been skinned out, alcohol & color are unreliable. (Left for Fremantle at 5pm same day). Finlayson is a chemistry teacher at the University & goes to the mammal department only twice a week. During the war he injured his eye and hand very badly when experimenting with explosives. @Apr. 19. Reached Fremantle, a took the train to Perth (40 minutes). Found Glauert at Museum. He is Ludwig Glauert & speaks with a strong Scottish accent. No types of recent mammals but some of fossils. Some excellent series of certain W.A. species: Myrmecobius, several Phascogale, Tarsipes, Trichosurus, Dromici (2 spp), several Wallabies; and any rodent, R fuscipes, Notomys about 3 spp., Hydromys fuliginosus; bats, 4 or 5 spp - in quantities. also lots of things in alcohol. Glauert, doing most of the work of the museum on his shoulders has no time at all for research. He's willing to work exchanges with us. Left Fremantle 6pm that evening. April 23. Stopped off Green Island about 2000 miles from anywhere to get rid of a barrel containing supplies of food & whatever for the whites (about a dozen) who are stationed there. The only sign of habitation is a written map sticker up above the coconut palms which grow on much of the ring-atoll. The atoll, by the way is incomplete, the reef to NE only just reaching the surface, while the included lagoon (many miles across) has the most lovely turquoise coloring you ever saw.
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ic mammals: reptiles. Bross was not only gave me the run of his mammal collections but (being an expert photographer himself) helped tremendously in the securing of photos of skulls. Left Melbourne 5pm on Apr. 13. Apr. 15 Arr'd Adelaide. Met Direct, Hale, and later Finlayson (1/2 mammals). Not much time to spare. Got collections but want a lot of work. Catalogue numbers only on most skins, also many specimens have been skinned not in alcohol or colors are unreliable. (Left fr Fremantle at 5pm same day). Finlayson is a chemistry teacher at the University and goes to the mammal department only twice a week. During the war he injured his eye and hand very badly when experimenting with explosives. Apr. 19 Reached Fremantle & took the train to Perth (40 minutes). Found Glauert at Museum. He is Lindley Glauert & speaks with a strong Scotch accent. No type of recent mammals but some of fossils. Some excellent skins of certain W.A. species: Myrmecobius, several Plethacodina, Tarsipes, Triacerosus, Dromicus (2 spp), several wallabies, and any rodent, R. fuscipes, Notomys almt 3 spp., Hydromys fuliginosus; bats, 4 or 5 spp. in quantities. also lots of thogs in alcohol. Glauert, doing most of the work of the museum on his shoulders has not time at all for research. He's willing to work exchanges with us. Left Fremantle 6 pm that evening. April 23 Stopped off Croc Island about 2000 miles from anywhere to get rid of a barrel containing supplies I looked outboard for the Whites (also a dozen) who are stationed there. The only sign of habitation is a wooden mast sticking up above the coconut palms which grow on much of the ring-atoll. The atoll, by the way, is incomplete; the reef to NW only just reaching the surface, while the included lagoon (many miles across) has the most lovely turquoise colour you can see.
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Three whale boats with jib & mainsails L. 30. P.3. put off to intercept us & pick up the panel. Evidently shaving is not one of the popular pastimes on the island! Chief product is copra. April 27th - Reached Colombo, Ceylon about 6.30 a.m. The ship lay at anchor inside the harbor & landed three people to go ashore. Had to make a few purchases & then went out to the museum (in Camamon Gardens). Met the Director - Melfosa. Phillips is curator of mammals in an honorary capacity but was away at his tea plantation. However Melfosa gave me a guide who showed the mammal collection that I specially wanted to see, namely the Muridae. Most of the skulls are uncleaned! Later had lunch at Galleface Hotel & went for a drive to Mt. Lavinia - which proved not to be a mount at all but a hotel on the sea-shore. However there was an aquarium there. Colombo streets with humanity, beggars, rickshaw boys; also ox-drawn vehicles & carts pulled by those queer like nature bullocks with high shoulders & their heads low-hung. Lots of color everywhere. Roads so narrow that two cars can barely pass. We sailed an hour & a half late (7.30 pm.) May 2. Aden. Dry, dirt depressing volcanic country. The only color is provided by brightly colored native dresses. Big cooling oil-fueling station. Blazing hot. Camel's draft wagon about. About 100 miles of good motor roads. All the passengers were in the native stores when theirs were very cheap owing to the fact that Aden is a free port. I picked up a couple of silk things for E. for only $7- each (English). Hotels abominable; tea good. Quantities of salt manufacturers in wrapping tanks & stacked up there in dazzling
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Three whale boats with jibs + mains sails L. 30. P. 3. put off to intercept us & pick up the band. Evidently shaving is not one of the popular pastimes on the island! Chief product is copra. April 29th - Reached Colombo, Ceylon about 6.30 a.m. The ship lay at anchor inside the harbor + canvices took people to & fro. Had to make a few purchases & then went out to the museum (in Cinnamon Gardens). Met the Director - Malfass. Phillips in charge of specimens in an honorary capacity but was away at his tea plantation. However Malfass gave me a guide who opened the mineral collection! That I specially wanted to see, namely the Murides. Most of the skulls are uncleaned! Later had lunch at Galleface Hotel + went for a drive to Mt. Lavinia - which proved not to be a mount at all but a hotel on the sea shore. However there was an aquarium there. Colombo seems with humanity, beggars, mosquito traps; also ox drawn vehicles & carts pulled by donkey like native hilllocks with high saddles & their heads low lying. Lots of color everywhere. Road so narrow that two cars can hardly pass. We sailed on home + a half hour (7.30 p.m.) May 2. Aden. Dry, diet depressing volcanic country. The only color is provided by brightly colored native dresses. Big coaling & oil fueling station. Blazing hot. Camels draft wagons about. About 100 miles I found motor roads. All the passengers were in the native store when things were very cheap owing to the fact that Aden is a free port. I picked up a couple of silk things for E. for only 5/- each (English). Hotels comfortable; tea good. Quantities of salt manufactures in evaporating tanks & stacked up in dazzling
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L. 30 R. 4 while mounds. Last rain fell seven years ago. Passed the corner of Bab-el-Mandeb (which carries two lights) at half an hour after midnight. May 3. This morning well into the red (not) see which here is about 140 miles wide. Pass a number of obviously volcanic islands. Temperature at 10.30 a.m. 88°. May 5. At Port Said. Came through tail end of a sand storm last night as we started through the Suez Canal. A few hours at Port Said & we sailed at 1 pm. May 6. All afternoon sailing along the south coast of Ciete. Very mountainous + very dry. Extremely attractive scenery just the same - scattered bushes + plants, no trees. A black water mark 8 feet up the cliff - must make a note to ancient subsidence level, as there is no tide in the Mediterranean. May 8. Afternoon along the toe of Italy + up through the straits of Messina where they tidal currents meet. Missed Stromboli which was passed about 8 pm. May 9. Awoke to find ship tied up at Naples. C.I.T. man in answer to B.P.'s an mail letter from Port Moresby came on board to help me. Cleared baggage + took to RR station; checked up trains; than went out to look at the ruins of Pompeii. Due to some sort of a picnic at Rome all sleepers were worked up full so got precious little sleep in my 1st class day-coach. All the line is electrified + you go thru endless vineyards & little catch cups planted between the vines. A nearly continuous series of travels in the last half of the ferry. May 10. Leave 6.30 am. Saw U.S. Consul, named Ramsay & his right hand man Moss. Got rooms at the Hotel Bristol on 20 de Settembre Street.
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White sands. Last rain fell seven years ago. Passed the corner of Bat-el-Mandel (which carries two lights) at half an hour after midnight. May 3. This morning well into the red (not) see which tree is about 140 miles wide. Passed a number of obviously volcanic islands. Temperature at 10:30 a.m. 88°. May 5. At Port Said. Came through tail-end of a sand storm last night as we started through the Suez Canal. A fortnight at Port Said and sailed at 1 p.m. May 6. All afternoon sailing along the south cast of Coasts. Very mountainous very dry. Extremely attractive scenes just the same scattered bushes & plants. No trees. A block water marks 8 feet up the cliffs must make a net to an extent Submarine level, as there is no tide in the Mediterranean. May 8. Afternoon why the Toe of Italy & up through the shoals of Messina where they tidal currents meet. Missed Stromboli which was passed about 8 p.m. May 9. Arrived to find ship. Tied up at Naples. C.I.T. men in answer to B.P.'s a mail letter from Port Moresby came on board to help us. Cleared baggage & took to RR station, checked up trains, then went out to look at the ruins of Pompeii. Due to some sort of a freeze in Rome all sleepers were booked up. Had to put piece little sleep in my 1st class day-coach. All the line is electrified & you for the endless vineyards & little catch crops planted between the vines. A nearly continuous series of travels in the last loop of the journey. May 10. Genua 6:30 a.m. Saw U.S. Canal, went Piazza a bit right hand near trees. Got rooms at the Hotel Bristol on 20 de Settembri Street.
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L. 30. P. S. Next I went to the museum + met the director, Prof. Oscar de Beaux. He had had my letter from Papua + had a lot of specimens not ready for me, which act I consider exceptionally thoughtful of him. Ellie is due here tomorrow; & I am very tired thru missing my sleep last night & am shutting down. Tues. May 18. For several days - in fact a week - El. & I have been working at the museum. Found most of the types + also a number of other things of interest which I have noted down. DeBeaux has done everything possible to help us. Today we went over the fowled collection. Yesterday he took us out to see this zoological park at Nervi. Hope to leave on the latter part of this week for Berlin. Found the types of Phascogale silvicauda, trivigii, and dorsalis; Pteroyetes longicauda; Echimyus rubescens and aruensis; Distoechurus permatus; Dactylopsila trivirgata albertisii. Pseudocheirus albertisii, and corinnae; Inocricetus agilis papuanus; Harecapzia Pteropus melanopogon papuana; Emballonura beccarii; Rhinolophus aruensis; Pipistrellus papuanus; Rattus ringens; Melmys trivigii; Uromys validus; Pogonomys mollipilus; Hydromys trecalii; Mus (s.s.) albertisii; Leptomys elyans; Rattus dorise (= beccarii); Phascogale dolosa, and melanura; Phalanger leucippus, gymnotus and carmelitus; Tachyglossus trivigii. A few types expected were not found, namely
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L. 30 P. S. next I went to the museum & met the director, Prof. Oscar de Beaux. He had had my letter from Papua and a lot of specimens ready for me, which act I consider exceptionally good of him. Ellie is done here tomorrow; I am very tired though missing my sleep last night or something. Tues. May 18. For several days -- in fact a week -- Ellie & I have been working at the museum. Found most of the types and also a number of other things of value, which I have noted down. DeBeaux has done everything possible to help us. Today he went over the small collection. Yesterday he took us out to see this zoological park at Nervi. Hope to leave in the latter part of this week for Berlin. Found the types of Phascolos silvicauda, bruijnii, and dorsalis; Peroryctes longicauda; Echimypra murfensis and aruenais; Distoechodus permatus, Dactylopsila trivagata albertisii Pseudochirus albertisii, and erminae; Macropus agilis papuanus; Dendropsia Pteropus melanopogon papuana; Entallomura beccarii; Rhinocliphus aruenais; Papistellus papuanus, Rattus nigros Melmys huygnii; Uromys validus; Pagonomys mollipilous; Hydromys beccatii. Trus (s.s.) albertisii; leptmys elegant; Rattus dorus (=beccarii); Phascolops doreae, and melanura; Phalangula lucippus, pymmatius and carmelitae; Tachyglossus bruijnii. A few types, expected, were not found, namely
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These two = To be sold = Other cleared were up last year. L. 30, P. 6 Dactylopsis t. albertisii and angustivitta; Pseudochirus schlegeli, bernsteini and lewisi; Pteropus chrysocephalus, melanopogon aricensis & keyensis, and P. degener; Rhinolophus keyensis; Hipposideros muscari a popmae; Pipistrellus angulatus. Thursday, May 27 - Reached Berlin Sunday night - attack fever during day in train. Saw Consul, called on Stateaman & Dr Poble. Settled down in P.M. Severe fever Tuesday. Wednesday worked in museum. Saw Newman - I very talkative, rather deaf & nearly blind, poor man. Today met Gabrielle Neuhäuser, Jewish & 26, who has recently taken her doctorate with a thesis on Aesthetic (Mun) murders. She must leave county by end of time. Wants to Australia & sell proceeds to Archbold. Neumann intermediat. Asked her (1) do all specimens go to A. (2) Has she settled on terms (3) Is Neumann going to handle collections, suggested difficulties with Australians if method fails this? Neumann's hands. Also proposed her sending whole collection to Archbold to select from & dispo of surplus as she directs. Met Heinrich (Celebs), Polish & about 45. He is leaving in July for Persama. Want sell Mundsee to Archbold. Stuessewang took us to Zoo. Fri. May 28 wrote Arch bold at Miss Neuhäuser & had out late p.m. with Heinrich & the Polish Consul in the latter's Packard to see Wahnusee. Sat. May 29. Frimley came in to see me about his Munder - to be published Nuremberg, R. is not in Museum - just working at something else
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Feb 20, '71 Dear Spalding, I am writing to you today as an interested and engaged member of the community. I have been following your work with great interest and admiration. The recent developments in the field of artificial intelligence are truly remarkable. The progress made by researchers like yourself is both inspiring and encouraging. Your contributions to this field have been instrumental in shaping its future direction. I would like to express my appreciation for your dedication and commitment to advancing the state-of-the-art techniques in machine learning and neural networks. Your efforts have undoubtedly paved the way for numerous breakthroughs that will benefit society at large. In light of these achievements, I believe it is important to reflect on the ethical implications associated with such rapid technological advancements. As we continue to push the boundaries of what is possible, we must also consider how our innovations can be used responsibly and ethically. Your insights into this matter are invaluable, and I eagerly await your thoughts on the subject. Please do not hesitate to share any ideas or concerns you may have regarding the responsible development and deployment of AI technologies. Thank you once again for all that you do. Your work continues to inspire me greatly. Yours sincerely, [illegible] P.S. If there's anything else I can assist with, please let me know.
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L. 30. P. 7 mm. May 31. Stein came in this pm. S showed me his Papuan & Tsiman [illegible] collections. A young, active man who leaves a good impression. Told me to ahead describe the shrews he took in Tsiman. Attended the Society für Säugetierkunde (monthly meet) in the evening. Three papers were read - all on hybridization. Wed. June 1. Chapin turned up today. Has gained 28 kilos in weight but very fit looking. Sat. June 4. Dr. Schultz-Kempenner who has just returned from his expedition to the Tari River, n. of north J Amazonas. He reports no severans at all there. Leaves Sunday for Congo. Thursday, June 9. At 9 a.m. left Berlin for Leyden. A hot, dusty trip. Reached L. at 10. p.m. Friday June 10. Met Tenge (in charge birds & mammals; Broschme (Director); and L.D. Brongersma (Herpetology; Felides, n). All very pleasant people. We we at work by the afternoon got through several types. Interesting to find that "Mus suber" Tenthk is not a Molomys but a Rattus. Sat. June 11. Had lunch with the Tengos's. On Sunday we went out in the day with the Tengos to the sand dunes at Katwijk. On Monday we were out in the evening with the Brongersma's. He is Herpetologist & also does some work on mammals. Thursday took dinner at the home of Broschme, th director where met Dr. Becking, plant physiologist. Sunday went with Broschme & just of his children to Amsterdam Zoological Gardens. The nations Friday we went to Amsterdam to study the types of Sody's
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L. 30. P. 7 Mon. May 31. Stem came in this pm & showed me his Papuan & Timor mammal collections. A young active man who leaves a good impression. Hired me to describe the skins he took at Timor. Attended the Society for Dierkunde (monthly meet) in the evening. Three papers were read - all on hybridization. Wed. June 1. Chapin turned up today. Has gained 25 kilos in weight by way of looking. Sat. June 4. Dr. Schultz-Munzinger who has just returned from his expedition to the Jari River, w. of north / Amazonas. Hereafter no steaming at all here. Leave Sunday for Coyo. Thursday, June 9. At 9 a.m. left Baden for Leyden. A hot, dusty trip. Reached J. at 10 p.m. Friday June 10 met Tenge (in charge birds & mammals; Broschma (Director), and L.D. Brongerame (Herpetology, Felidae, etc). At very pleasant pc & we all went to the afternoon of our third / second J pm. Intended to find that "Mud water" Tenthrak is not a Wombiya but a Rattus Sat. June 11. Had lunch with the Tenge. On Sunday we went out in the day with the Tenge to the sand dunes at Katwijk. On Monday we were out in the evening with the Brongerame. He is Herpetologist & also does some things of mammals. Thursday (typo) dinner at the house of Broschma, thc director where met V. Becking, plant physiologist. Sunday went with Broschma & just of his children to Amsterdam Zoological Gardens. The previous Friday we went to Amsterdam to study the types of Sody's
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collection. we did the rodents (22 species); he has described almt 57 altogether. Today is Sunday June 19. Tuesday June 29. we finished at Leyden last Thursday, and were in England Friday morning, having crossed from Hook of Holland to Harwich, & thence to London. went to Musum in afternoon. Saw Morris- Scott the new mammal man. And the next day Hinton + Dollman. met Fellows, Oldfield, Hunt and King (the last a new comer). Settled down to first days work Monday morning. Thursday July 8. been started with Papuan marsupials plats. met Shaw Preyer, & a fellow named Morrison who is going to Pest collect. The former is going out to E. Papua in almt a week from now. Also met Frost who has collected in Java. Mr Schuler, editor of Zoological Rec. took us to level the other day. Have done no photography yet because the "contax" needed overhauling, (Just got it back) so there is a vast accumulation of type skulls awaiting the taking of their pictures. Starting Papuan rodents tomorrow!
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Collection. He did the birds (22 species), he has described about 57 altogether. Sunday June 17. Thursday June 29. We finished at Leyden last Thursday, and were in England Friday morning having come from North Holland to Haarlem, & thence to London. Went to Museum in afternoon. Met Mrum-Scott the new married man. Also the next day Martin & Delmaran. Met Fellows, Oldfield, Hunt and King (the last a newcomer). Settled down for two days until Monday morning. Thursday July 2. We started with Papuan mammalians etc. Met Shaw Meyer, & a fellow named Morrison who is going to red collect. The former is going out to E.Papua in about a week from now. Also met Frost who has collected in Java. Dr Skeeter editor of Zoological Rec took us to lunch the other day. Have done no photographing yet because the 'canton' needed overhauling, (that sort of back) So there is a vast accumulation of type skulls awaiting the taking of their pictures. Starting Papuan rodents tomorrow.
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85.00 65/2 10.00 28.33 35.55 20.00 5.00 85.5 42.5 40 35 88.88 85/15 92// 60 3:
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