Arctic Alaska, Canada, 1963, [diaries]

Steere, William Campbell, 1907-1989

1963

New York Botanical Garden, LuEsther T. Mertz Library

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Steere William Campbell 1907-1989 Plants Plants Plants

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1913 HAZEL NAYUKOK Meade River Alaska Joe AHKPIK

6/26/63. [2 persons] Taxi - Bronxville - Idlewild - $11.00 tip 1.00 12.00 Idlewild Overweight on baggage - $42.72 Northwest A.L. baggage handling $2.00 Dinner :

June 26. Spent morning catching up on dictation & various odds & ends in office. Pierre Dansereau in with report on his trip to Colorado to help dedicate the new arctic- alpine laboratory, at invitation of John Marr. His talk (the central one) went well, & P.R. very happy. To Brighte Photo, or Webster Ave., to pick up processed Kodachromes from Japan trip - almost forgot them. Also stopped at Post Office - got 2 sheets green U.S. Freedom from Hunger Stamp, with wheat. Want to museum today. Good bye to Yurki & others.

Yuki not in - would otherwise have asked him to translate title of Japanese work on bryophyta said by Iwane - entirely in Japanese. Saw Muldford Martin & Clark Rogerson, however. Stopped to see Bob Kolkebeck & to arrange for mail to be delivered. Notes to Yuki mortgage. Went home about 12:30 to pack - called Midland Taxi to pick me up at 4:00 pm., on Pierre's recommendation, as being economical & dependable. Taxi came promptly at 4:00, but went by Deegan expressway & Triborough Bridge, just in time to catch rush

Taxi - Bronxville - Idlewild $12.00 Cocktails = 4.00 Porter 2.00 how Traffic, especially in World's Fair area - I would have taken Hutchinson Parkway to Throg's Neck Bridge + Belt Parkway To Idlewild, 4 probably Caught in some kind of traffic. To North- Western Terminal at 5:15 a 100 pounds overweight; so shipped this part of year as passenger - accompanied air freight To Anchorage - will have to negotiate the whole problem there to Fairbanks + Thence to Barnow. I just hope that everything I need get packed, with so little time to put buy

drinks on plane 3.00 porter in Anchorage 2.00 mind to if. Fortunately, Dorothy had almost everything I needed piled up & I had much photographic stuff stockpiled, too. Taxi came promptly at 4:00 - lots of traffic, so not at airport until almost 5:30. Had intended to eat dinner at airport but on checking in discovered that dinner was served on flight, do went to cocktail lounge for a drink. On board at 6:45 - were lucky to get front seats in tourist section with plenty of legroom quite by accident, as stewards made a mistake.

"Breakfast" in Anchorage $4.50 (7:00) Off on Time and arrived in Anchorage at 8:30 - 6 hours time difference. We slept on plane during the long Trip and arrived in Anchorage hungry (already early am. in New York), so ate a sort of Breakfast. Off on Alaska Airlines jet for Fairbanks at 10:30 - jet really bound for Seattle - and in FSKs at 11:30. Taxi To Travellers Inn - fortunately they were expecting us & had held room, as I had sent Check for $20.- when making reservation had cleared late arrival. Beautiful dinner-service in north at midnight.

Breakfast #6.00 June 27. Up at 8:00 - still Sleepy and not used to 6-hour Time difference. A dark morning with a lot of rain in the air from time to time. After breakfast walked around Fairbanks to get our last minute shopping done - stamps, rubber boots, pants, Analid's spray, air- mail envelope, some black- 4 white film just in case, gloves for Dorothy, etc. etc.- in cluding plastic bags, never a sure thing at A.P.C. Stopped at Lindije a ordered liquor and picked out a cartload of goodies. Also Stopped at Wien's To confirm tomorrow's flight to Bannow- and as usual, they had

never heard of us. Fortunately, space was available, so no problem arose. After lunch, while Dorothy took map, I went to town & got haircut ($3.10!) and paid bill at Lindy's ($288.+). walked around town for exercise - lidos and marinas in full bloom. Dinner at Travellers Inn and then saw movie put on by Chamber of Commerce on Alaskan Tours. Then an interesting series of dances by 2 Eskimo couples, quite elderly but very agile. The old traditional Eskimo dances has brought up to date by improvisation in typical Eskimo style.

June 28. Up at 6:00, to find a dark raining morning. Breakfast at 7:00, then repacked & got ready for an 8:00 pickup by airport taxi. Took first lot of gear to lobby & was told that flight was delayed by weather conditions at Barrow. Called wives at 9:15 - 10:15 & finally learned their departure was scheduled for 11:30, so we went to airport. Finally off at 11:45, in Fairchild, with heavy cloud cover. Got faint glimpse of Yukon and of tundra N. of Brooks Range, but no visibility for photography. Stopped at Unniat - apparently a regular stop

now - about 1:30. Bob Main flying for Wien now - flying charter flights out y lunch at - he flew for ARL in 1960 - happened to be on hand (paw) us, so we had a good reunion with him & his son Duke - They had fixed up living quarters in the "tower." Off again and arrived at Barnow at 2:40 - cold + low cieling. Came in along beach as all planes do with poor visibility. Met by Ted Humphries, who is now the expediter. ARL now has jeep station wagons, easier to getting out of, especially when heavily laden, than Standard jeep - went directly to ARL + saw John (=Erna) Schindler & heap

Braves. Checked in, were assigned to lab 10, then went to store + got issue clothing - parkas, etc. Talked some more with Max + John + heard details of their last year's forced landing on ice when plane was accidentally refueled with Diesel oil at Arlinz II! Then were given Tour of brand new animal quarters + shop. Saw 4 year-old wolves + 5 brand new ones, plus 2 wolverines. Stopped in to see Frank Pitelka and his group - Frank leaving next week. Drinks + dinner with Braves - at Braves - + Schindler + Pitelka. Managed to get caught up on much news + gossip, after missing 1962 Season

June 29. To lab after breakfast at home. Inspected books and maps & got lab (#10) squared away. Got paper bags from Stockroom upstairs, then got freezers, blotters, ventilators, newspapers & plastic bags - now all set for field work. In afternoon went out on tundra behind base, toward the gas well, for a couple of hours. The snow melt off was unusually early this year & so the tundra seems dryer than usual. Talked to May Brewer about getting into the field - we may go to Deade River on Monday. Must do a lot of sorting of gear at home, too.

June 30 (Sunday). Slept until 8:00, then a leisurely Sunday breakfast. Went to lab, which was practically deserted. Got cameras and camera equipment sorted and organized - also maps & selected maps needed for Coal Mine and Poluck Lake. Stayed home after lunch - took a long nap to remedy sleep deficits and then read PBR books submitted for prize. Read or finished reading & wrote reports on books by Suggs, Summitt and Roscher. Strong N. wind all day but rain in evening must mean shift

July 1. Up early, typed off reports on books for ΦΒΚ & got them in mail. Packed packsack - got a clipboard, for maps + paper, that needs to have about 4 inches saved off. went home and got gear in order & packed a duffle bag. It's a new and pleasant prospect to be living in Wainizone instead of a tent, means carrying much less stuff. Learned, finally, That we would probably leave before 2:30, so settled down to a relaxed lunch & finished packing. About 1:30, when I was still reading the truck came for our gear

I went down to lab To get pack sack, presses etc. on to the truck for packing on plane. Truck (Ted Humphrey) picked me up at lab, then home for Dorothy a last minute items. Off at 2:04 in Cessna 180 on wheels, with Mal Stachli as pilot. He got lost, so we flew lots of tundra - and caribou - before 3:00, when we finally arrived. Air strip only a weed Trail bulldozed out of tundra - but sandy. Wanigan a Tar-paper Shack on pride (with lots Of loose pieces flapping and vibrating in strong

Meade River, Alaska west wind - Key to winning possession of young self elected caretaker (Eskimo apparently with TBC). Made coffee for Ned and Eskimo, then to get settled. Work on door + Hazel Natyuktok arrived, on a social visit! She has 2 boys + 2 girls, one boy adopted. Her husband working at Umiat, for an oil company, but should be home for the 4th. - If Wien is flying. In getting water from stream, I looked at plants - a reasonably nice flora- Parnya, Erythronium, etc. Our living comfortable

July 2. Up early + ytl breakfast went north through tundra to next great sweep, I made five to south, well marked by snowbanks when one reached a certain altitude. Tundra. Low- center polygons near village of fen-type, of relatively high pH-, with Cinclidium, Scorpidium, Meesia spp. etc., but progressively more acid downward, but with lots of Lepicolea (or whatever Schuster calls it today). Birds all from yjial - in middle of nesting season - r. finished 3 ptarmigan

Lone with fluffy yellow > from peeping chicks. Back to warrigan for late lunch, then Dorothy and I walked approximately 1 mile to lake that feeds stream going through village & serves as water supply. Then we walked to bring back down bank of meade river to our warrigan. Afternoon became progressively cleaner, so I took pictures of plants. I continued to do so on arrival at camp, about 4:00. No more than started, than Hazel

Nayukoko came up hill, with daughter Clara, on another call, but with fresh-caught white fish from river as gift. Doroding gave her some evaporated milk (that she needed badly for her baby) and some post shops that we were long on. Fish for dinner & excellent, especially since we were sent out with short supply - no bread, potatoes or vegetables, either fresh or canned. We can make out for a week or even 10 days if necessary, but on marginal level.

July 3. Strong wind of last day - suddenly still. Fog in night - sprinkle in morning, but not real rain. Out about 8:30, with sun trying to burn through overcast. Went back up river to photograph Eriochloa on dunes & took several shots, with varying light. Collected several moths not yet found, including Sphacelum ovatum and a Desmatodon. Each day will bring fewer rewards in a well-known place like this, where Howard Cunn worked in 1953, and

Holmen & Mårtensson in 1960 or 1961. Found Fissidens in quantity - had been looking for it. Habitats not right for many things - have not seen Rhipidium, for example. Still have not collected Ceratodon, in great abundance and Philopidium, commoner here than at Barrow. Joe Althfick, the "caretaker", came to call - and stayed. Rained in evening. To bed early - have slept poorly lately. Waked up nearly at midnight by plane that circled & finally landed. Not ARL & not marked- perhaps driven, as everyone came a walk back to village.

July 4. Rained all night & all day - dark & cold, but little wind, at least compared to first few days here. Stayed home & sorted & recorded specimens collected during last 2 days, and Dorothy put them in newspapers. Some 100 collections and nearly as many species- really more if admixtures are counted. Although we have no coal, found that range will heat remarkably well for long enough to warm the warming with newspapers, cardboard, etc. At 4:00 heavy snow began & everything white by 7:00.

Joe Akpik came in about 6:00 and spent a couple of hours sitting with me - but without much communication. However, we did learn that his name means "Salmon berry" - Rubus Chaemamomus. Also found that coal mine operated primarily in winter, in a vein 8-10 feet thick. Coal blasted loose, then taken to hoist bucket by wheelbarrow. Coal taken to Barrow & bartered for food + supplies. Wainwright, although at equal distance, has its own coal mine. Snow finally changed to sheet - 4 or 5 inches during night.

July 5. A cold, dark, windy morning. Much of snow had evaporated, but still several inches thick in depressions; whole landscape still white. Because low-center polygons were still snow-filled, I worked along face of bluff over Meade R. 9 in ravines in it, to the coal mine. Got many things, not previously seen, that might otherwise have been over- looked. Back to Winnipeg at 2:00. Dorothy had no more than gotten a pan of pork chops on the stove than we heard a plane— Mal Stuehli’s ARL 180— which was met by us and

most of the Eskimos in the village, who then came in to watch us pack. Dorothy distributed the perishable food among the 2 families & also gave them the pork chops on the promise that the pan would be returned. Off about 2:30 & no sooner in air than I remembered leaving the rifle, intended for Noluck Lake, well hidden in the Wearingan. So, back to the County road airstrip & got gun. Mal flies as low as Zimmerman & has as gay a temperament. Suggested that we go out to Coast & see the monument, which we did, thence back

along The beach, buzzing every tent & Espresso along the way. Met by Tad Humphrey, who took us home. After lunch went to lab to check in with Max & John - they came in for drinks & John brought Erna, who is leaving for several weeks in Mexico, tomorrow. First lot of mail in from Bronxville & Garden - also the batch of ΦΒΚ books I had mailed. Got dryer installed in lab and press that Dorothy had made up over the heat. Will have to postpone something today's collections until tomorrow.

July 6. Up early & spent most of day sorting, numbering & inventorying yesterday's collections & getting them over the heat. At 12:00 went out to the airport to see Erma Schindler off for Mexico. Met Phil Church, Univ. Wash., who had arrived on the 4th. Also met several of the lab inmates, John Tadrow and a CRELL group, Tolman, a plant ecologist; Grant Walton and Bob Lleldwyn. Also a heavily bearded young Dutch Linnwologist from U. Indiana, with some moths for identification. Managed to identify moths left last week by Kurt Bohnsack.

May & John in for drinks, John stayed for dinner, then we all went to Barnow village to watch baseball game, boat races and tug-of-war, all postponed from July 4 because of terrible weather that day. Home about midnight, then invited in for a nightcap by our neighbors on the other end of the Quonset, Dave and Fran Mullen - he working on his doctorate with Frank Pitalka, on the physiology of learnings. Earlier, Max had told us that bobwhites were almost immune to Strychnine, so Folk was worried about relaxing his for experimental work!

July 7 (Sunday). Sleeps until 9:30, thanks to black out shutter on bedroom window. Went to lab, changed drivers in one enormous mass, finished identifications of insects brought in by others. Had long talk with Phil Johnson, who took Ph.D. with Dungers Billings, & who knows Pierre Dunceran well - an interesting & bright boy not ashamed to be a naturalist in this molecular age. Spent p.m. on Correspondence - letters to Kokebeck, Dunceran, Erwin, Rickett & carbons + Note to Grace Dietz. Mullens over for drinks after dinner.

July 8. With drier on all night, most of the specimens were dry. Put the rest on the heater and they were dry before lunch. Talked to Max & John - float plane due in any moment & we should deport by 12:00, so went home & finished packing. Then heard that plane was having manifold repairs & would be delayed, So back to the lab to wait. Max plans to have us at Noluck Lake just a week, then back to Bannow a couple of days to dry specimens before going to Benneke Island. He's

pandding a reconnaissance flights out Tomorrow to Test landing strip a to see if Maher wants to be moved. If R4D can't land, then we will have to go by 180, a much longer time on route. Today's trip will take 2 flights, so Max is rendering an outboard motor for the rowboat already there. Off, finally, at 1:20 and at Noluck Lake at 3:00, after a fine flight in good weather. Noluck Lake the counterpart of Liberator Lake and Smith Lakes - at the very front of the Brooks Range, with mountains immediately behind, only closer than

other areas visited. The new living room very comfortable with new furniture & propane stove for cooking, plus a space heater - but I didn't know how to operate them. However, a good new Coleman stove was on hand, so we used that. Spent late afternoon and evening making collections of relatively common moose along lake shore. Much bear during cabin equipped with mail- shielded covers over doors & windows. Second flight with remainder of gear never arrived, so spent the night with one bar open. A fine place!

July 9. Dorothy's birthday but nothing in hand after flowered in Tokyo - also store at Baza out of everything for gifts. Up early, over after bad night of listening for plane for body of me + out to mountain behind womigan - Good collecting, with Rudale prolijara, Seaponis Simmonsii, Frullaria, Tennoma, Macrodiplophyllum, Cynodontium alpestre, Minim Andrewsianum, mesotyphia, prentice "Fossombrone" & silt boile, etc. Home for lunch because of probable arrival of float plane. Stayed home all afternoon until at 4:30, we heard plane arriving. Bobby

Fisher arrived in float plane with Dick scheduled for another camp. He brought my press, plus more food, plus outboard motor, oil, etc. - and I sewinged several spray cans of "Off" because of enormous clouds of mosquitoes. We gave him some chocolate that we had been drinking when we heard plane & he showed us how to use propane stove - also how to tell full propane tank from empty one and how to change them. Bobby also brought mail from Barrow - mostly birthday cards for Dorothy.

June 10. Planned a long trip because not yet well started - spent so much of yesterday waiting for plane. Went upstream to "twi" mountains, visited eastern one to see old mine (?) then to high ridge back of them, to be seen from camp. Tracks of thousands of carbon everywhere, especially south of twi ridges. Found much of interest, including Tricho- tomum crispidissimum, Didymodon giganteum, Braesia trigonata, Mnium Andersonianum, Lepicolea, an odd hepatic, Plectoderen ?, That seemed to exist mostly as bare stems with only

Submersanty leaves, but suddenly producing an apical tuft + pennate. Much else q. interest. Also photographed many higher plants. From ridge, went east to swamping ridge connecting to back of eastern high ridge close To camp. Up south side & over top just at E. end of Noluck lake. Down on an angle for 1/2 mile, then across wet tundra to camp Mosquitoes too ferocious & I too thirsty after 6 hours of work to do much collecting on way down - will save two for shorter days, shortly out of camp. Did see much Rudela, however, I collected Lepicolea

June 11. Rained all night - ranging from real rain to sprinkle to mist. Only a sprinkle when we got up, but still dark and uniformly over cast. This will be a good morning, at least, to sort the specimens already collected. Got through material collected July 8 & 9 4 out in rain to western "twin peak" behind camp. Up the western end, in a ravine with stream, then up back wall to rock pile on top. Cross relatively smooth, with a sharp drop off on north and a rounded south slope with very conspicuous solifluction stripes. Walked whole length of crest & found

that someone had installed a vertical pipe in rocks at highest part of E. end of ridge. Then down & back to camp via E. end, north slope. Out 2½ hours & rather wet, in spite of rain. Shedding quality of anorak. Picked up several things not yet collected & got a lot of F. jacksonii, in the hope of finding more F. Jackii, collected more or less by accident at Driftwood in 19st. Stormy evening so dark that I located drum of white gas on beach, filled empty Jerry can in wagon, assembled & filled new Coleman lantern & got it going. With propane stove, not much need for white gas unless we get outboard going.

July 12. Another cold raining night and dark foggy morning. After breakfast, settled down & sorted & recorded collections made July 10 & 11 & Dowding put them in papers. We finally finished the tedious job at 4:00pm. I went out to visit old cabin & climbed western ridge from back - a vaitable rock garden & the first lupines. I had seen in this area. Ascent from back much easier & less steep than from north. By the time we got to the top, the ceiling came down below mountain Top, so we had only fragmentary, views of camp, lake, surrounding Country, etc. In good weather,

one has excellent views of Delong Mountains from this ridge - wind strong, cold on top - would be snow at higher altitudes. Back to camp after 6:00, cold & damp, but with blood circulating again after long day's work on specimens. Pick[ed] up a few things not yet in hand as primary collections, but only as ad- mittances, as 2 spp. ? Rhaconitrium & some weedy things. Tomorrow, weather or not, will go out on lower ridges west of king's west mountain behind camp, in hope of finding some of the Driftwood species. Cold night!

July 13. Morning cool, dark wridy & foggy, with occasional blasts of misty rain. However, overcast is finally in discrete cloids & not continuous, with sun visible in thinner spots. Out at 9:00, went west from "west ridge" behind camp on ridges parallel to it - and some at right angles. Found several good areas of stabilized frost boils, both wet & dry, with Didymocodon purpus, Tremets. don brevifolia, Plagiobryum Zierii, etc. Continued west to Storm Creek & got Bego- brittonia and Dicksoniun in nicer flats - but did not find Aloina, usually common in such places. Day gradually

got brighter as clouds thinned & scattered, but still cold & windy. Found excellent walking on Caribou trail just south of ridge & saw one young caribou, who started running when he saw me, even though upwind- and a very strong q cred wind, too. Half expected to hear plane coming in today because of a remark Max made about a "social call," but with ice breaker in at Barrow & with planes undoubtedly behind schedule because of bad weather, Max is well tired up. will go out on "east ridge" tomorrow & to Pilly Fork of Naska River (USGS map, 1956 Ed. Wiseheart Mountain Quadrangle).

July 14 (Sunday). Cold night, and another foggy, rainy, cold and windy morning. Finally out at 10:00, working on the north slope of the "east ridge" behind camp. Worked up near the summit, then down to about halfway, to intersect ridge running east nearly to the Pilly Fork of the Nuska River, then, some tundra before reaching river. River runs not fast, what with all the recent rain. Got a Hygrophilum on rocks in the river. Found first Dodecatheon aren in area on banks. Walked down river a half mile or so, then west to isolated ridge near

SE corner of Nolucke Lake. A great relief to turn west, as I had been working into strong wind & rain, until then. Got another Cincladius, probably C. subrotundum, Scopidium, Splachnum vasculosum, good S. ovatum, and several other items of interest. Home about 3:00 started sorting collections made July 12, 13, and Today. About 8:00 we heard a plane, although weather seemed far too bad. It was Bob Murphy & 3 passengers, including Dr. Hollingquist, touring lakes for dredge hauls. Gave them coffee & tea & they off at 9:30. Finished sorting specimens at 10:45. Mail & fresh meat!

July 15. Got up about 3:00 am. to shut off stove - wind had died down & wagon much too warm - looked out there was large wolf mummaging around among drums, etc. Called Dorothy & she saw it, too... it seemed quite unperturbed by us. Although cairn was still very low, we could see sun right in north between two mountains north of lake, between which the outlet of Nolack lake runs. Brought in fresh meat that we had put under house ! Bob Murphy piles of last night's plane Told me that Banal / coastal plain had been having good weather during our stormy spell.

Up at 9:00 am. - still foggy, cold, misting & the strong east wind back again. The calling so low that no plane could come in - night on the ground part of day so that we couldn't even see across the lake. Out before 10:30; went up small stream that passes through camp as far as mountains & separates and came back through wet tundra, specializing in Cincidium, and Callitogon. Was glad to find Minima, Cincidiodidea & several other things not previously collected. In at 1:30 - wet & cold - & sorted collections. Half expected to be picked up, but fog settled in right to the ground.

July 16. Up early - still some fog but sun trying to break through. Out at 8:30 to "west ridge" of Twin mountains just south of camp & worked on north face slowly and carefully, since main inventory job is completed. Found Areas with fruit, a Tangoria and Thriindrin, all of interest. Sun finally came out, but fog replaced by heavy Cumulus and occasional showers. In for lunch just after 2:50 & to avoid heavy rain from approaching cloud. After lunch Took a few photographs between rains & began to pack. Heard phone about 6:00 - Bob Murphy had been taking

a party (McNamara) to a lake above Lemiat, to descend by boat, and stopped in to see if we were ready to go because his plane was empty and he was in the vicinity - a most humane attitude, as otherwise it would be at least another day before we could be picked up. Finished packing, took gear to plane, turned off propane tank, put horrible bear- and-wolverine- proof shutters back on windows & door (I managed to snag my hand in process) and off just after 7:00. Landed at Barrow in fog Shortly after 9:00 - met by Joe & Ted Humphrey. Home for a quick supper, then put 2 big pieces of best specimens over the fire.

July 17. Up early & got last batch of wet specimens in press & over the heater- all material better than usual because collected in rain. Also sorted yesterday's collections & got them in press, too, so all material now under control. Dorothy spent morning on accounts a bill and I also paid a couple of bills & got Random House check off to bank. Max Brewer & John Schindler stopped by for a drink and ended up by staying for dinner - then their two guests, the administrator of the school at Barron village, with whom they were going to play pinocle, stopped in for the evenings, too. Went to lab late to turn

July 18. Spent whole day getting specimens dry, still had to leave 2 presses on heater overnight. Collecting in rain made this the wettest lot of material in a long time. Had long letter from Pierre Dammerean on several topics & answered it. Went to store at noon & bought a couple of packages of air- mail envelopes - a stork disappeared from the lab while we were at Noluck Lake. The strong east winds we had at Noluck blew the ice out to sea - very early in the season. Had long talk with Dave Mullen about Banks I. He is pessimistic about morses.

July 19. Most of specimens left on heater overnight were dry - the rest I dried by exposing to air or by laying them on the heater. Letter from Grace Dietz - answered. Also typed up reports or books read for the PBS science award + letter to secretary suggesting that this is the end. I only hope that a book or so isn't floating around in a bush plane or field camp. Talked to Hank Childs, who also went to Banks I., who brought back some moose, so it isn't as much of a desert as Mullen thought. Max Brewer in - we will go to Cape Thompson tomorrow, then to Banks I. via Eniwetok, Canada.

July 20. Last dozen sheets of specimens finally dry. Wrapped all dry material from Meade River & Nolack Lake in 4 big bundles - all set to pack and ship when the time comes. Letters to Schuster & Tilley concerning public. Very heavy fog, night on ground, so thick that eclipse of sun would not be seen most of time, and when it did appear, no filter was needed. Saw Max Brewer about today's flight, if any - he predicted about 3:00, so home to finish catering & for lunch. After lunch had long conference with Brewer & Schindler - ARL has possibility of gettin'

intermediate DELW line stations from Air Force, as reception of major stations has been greatly increased. This would mean the acquisition of 7-9 US facilities and 3-4 Canadian ones. My reaction was to accept confirming available and worry about what to do with it later. To airport shortly after 3:00 and finally off at 3:55 - delayed because Brian's Fairchild and C-46 were in process of landing after long delay above fog. Fog extended only a few miles south of Bannow; rest of trip in clear, so I took several tundra photographs, mostly felled streams and drainage

features in general. Murphy cuts in just west of Bearport, just east of Cape Sabine, & thence southwesterly, so we missed the cliffs of Cape Hirstborne and their terrible downdrafts, experienced two years ago with Prescott & Hulten. Arrived Cape Thompson at 6:30- to find that it was 5:30 Camp time - also Kotzebue & Nome. Met by Harry L. Strong, the camp manager & several others. An English couple, he working on invertebrates, had back with Murphy. Dr. Parker from Univ. of Alberta, here working on crypto taxonomy. Dorothy and I went out for 3 hours to collect & followed by

(Sunday) July 21. Rain in night & early morning. We got up early & made our own breakfast before others got up. I was in field about 8:30 & came in for lunch about 1:00 - to find that lunch was at 2:00. Dordsey and I had a sandwich & Harry took us by truck was to the new airstrip, reasonably close to mountains SE of camp. A persistent rain developed, so we came in a bit early - as 5:15 - somewhat camp. The side valley we entered had a resident bear so we were supposed to carry a rifle, but when I talked, Harry Strong gave me a

Smoke bomb, which would probably be more effective. The mountains south of the Ogontz creek of black shale, very acid and sterile, but I had to see them to be sure. Will now put main emphasis on limestone mountains on north. The wearal situation here is bad, with only one or two in operation, so most of my work will have to be on foot. Big turkey dinner - we ate too much. Spent evening sorting yesterday's collections & recording them - Dorothy got them into papers. We have lab space with Dr. Packer who is counting chromosomes of local plants.

July 22. Out in morning with Dorothy to big ridge NW of camp, up ridge nearly to top then along ridge for a couple of miles & back via deep gorge & creek that joins Ogotoronde Creek. Sun not really out, although a much better day than yesterday, so took a couple of photographs, esp. of Dodecathreon and a magenta colored Castilleja. Back for lunch, then out to some area we visited Saturday night, to photograph plants, with improved weather. Finally found an friendly fox who was sleeping in willows & who yawned & scratched at a distance of 20 feet, until

fridly leaving us and climbing mountain. Got a series with telephoto - at least if exposure is ok. ARE plane came in while we were on mountainside, with John Schneider, as we found out later on return. Spent quite a lot of time photographing plants and in looking for - and finding - the curious turgid moss (Mugur oclada ?) found as a few strands Saturday night. Found a reasonably pure colony & collected enough for specimen. Max Brewer arrived in evening - he and John assigned to beds in our community room, but didn't come in until 4:00 am.

July 23. Everyone up early because barge had arrived To pick up cargo for Barrow and to deliver gasoline for this camp. On Brevikie landing, Dorothy and I were finally able to borrow a vessel - although there are 6 or 7 around, only a couple of them work well. Went up Ogotornk Creek about 5 miles, then left up a creek coming in from the north over the tundra on an old wrecked trail. Always to the Kaltipute River - to which I had hoped to get but thought it'd was too far because of our late start, but 2 saw from the plane the next day that we were only a mile or two away and that the cut banks we could on

the range to our left (lank) were really on the other side of the river. However we got back to camp in time to see John & Max before they left & to learn that the prospects for ARL acquiring the intermediate DEL line station is looked very good - the Air Force is willing if the Navy agrees - said Max. Apparently has Navy agreement in hand. Not in any collection today. Got Blessia or bombs of a small steam & printing Philopilum - common but storable on the coast, in hopes as I saw it. Very quiet at dinner with Max, John & the range was gone, so Harry Strong saved a couple of bottles to announce.

July 24. Rained hard in night, so ups & out early. Had To get breakfast for us, as whole camp was sleeping after strenuous 2 days of getting ready for loading the barge. Found Herberta, Aloina & several other things not yet collected - but no Ascidia, which turned up last time. Worked carefully in shale & silt frost hills seaward from NW end of runway, behind Camp, through lunch hour. Fog night on ground much of time & so none of us expected a plane Today, after all. However, heard plane & rushed back to Camps, arriving about 3:30 just after plane had landed & was unloading food & a

new colored work, long overdue Quickly finished packing, got fares from lab, said Goodbye to Packer, Henry Strong & stone and off at- 4:00 - 5:00 Barron time. weather cleaner north of Cape Thompson & good all the way to Barron except- for occasional scattered showers - saw magnificent circular rainbows. Arrived Barron in full sun at 7:20 & home not much after 7:30. went on to lab after delivering Dowdley & gear at home; changed press from wet bottles to dry concentrates & got it over heater. Some mail for us in Office - saw Max briefly, then home for food - too tired to sort specimens.

July 25. Another bright & sunny day after a long siege of fog. Some specimens already dry, others enough so to lay out in day air of lab to finish up. Sorted bags of stuff collected during last 2 days, made records + got into press. Spent whole day on specimens, in one form or another. Got considerable information Invite from Hank Childs - apparently quite a place & brand new, to replace Akkink, which is being taken over by the Merckensie. Max & John in for drinks, followed at once by Cliff & Norma Aldenfer - no time for dinner!

July 26. Great bulk of specimens now dry - will decre a few on the dryer if necessary, for a day or so. Phil Johnson will pull the plugs. Letters from Pierre Danceureau & Grace Dietz - stationary came yesterday but no messages. Wrote Alaska Airlines for reconfirming our flight Aug. 8. Went carbon to Northwest Airlines - also asked Northwest to make hotel reservation in Anchorage. Ted Humphrey came to lab at 12:00 to say that our flight was developing. To home for lunch & to park. Wrote note to May Brewer about need to return to Barrow from Banks Island in time

to dry specimens & pack gear before departing on the 8th. Picked up at 2:00 and off at 2:25 in 180 on wheels; in rain. weather on and off - very bad in Baxter Island area, with fog, rain or low ceiling, but began to clear just after Herschel Island. Arrived at Inuvik at 7:00- 4½ hours flying time instead of 5 hours because of strong tail wind - but 9:00 pm. at Inuvik. Many photos of Mackenzie delta & vegetation cycles. Inuvik broad now & very colorful. We were lucky in getting room in Mackenzie Hotel, the only one. Walked around Town after dinner for exercise - an interesting place, on dry land.

July 27. A dark rainy morning with low ceiling- we slept badly because of hammocky bed + noisy Town, especially because we are over the bar! Up fairly early, to meet Bob- Mumpfley for breakfast as 8:00. He had still not been able to find customs man to sign the papers, so we walked to the laundry, ran by the customs man, but it wasn't yet open. Tried a second time, but laundry still closed. Finally got a taxi for the air port, & found that the driver knew where the customs man lived, so we stopped at his house & Bob finally got squared away-

Out to the air post finally about 10:00, but in a very heavy rain. We waited until the squall passed, then Bob gassed up > we were off at about 11:00 > arrived at Aklevik at 11:30. Met by friendly young village manager who gave Dondley & Bob much information about Aklevik & the transfer of many government activities to the new town of Inuvik. I promised to be back at plane in 2 hours and headed for the nearest spruce forest, down the river. Not a terribly rich flora, but something of interest, especially Buxus thunbergii & several Potentilla & many Bergenia. On the way back

I were met by Dr. Krajina of the Univ. B.C., with his 15-year old son & two students from UBC - They are doing eiological work in the adjacent Richardson Mts - where I would like much to work. Since he will be at the AIB) meetings, I didn't spend too much time with him, so we got off before 2:00 p. were back at The Innwith air just about 3:00 p. back in Town about 3:00, in time to catch the liquor Store open at its highly restrictive hours. Then To the Hudson's Bay Store to look at carved soapstone, much already bought by ARL people going through. We brought

2 large pieces - a bit expensive ($60.-, $70.-) + I got 3 pieces for Solimene at ARL, after talking the manager into accepting his check. We will get some more things on Monday, for the kids. The HB Store has an unusually large stock of soapstone & the prices are not too high. Bob decided not to go back to Bannan because of strong headwinds up to 40 mph. - a long hard trip by himself, anyhow. We sat around all evening with drinks, talking about the Banke Island Trip & other things - Bob all set to take us in their 180!

July 28 (Sunday). Slept in- and then dark morning, so we combined lunch & breakfast about 11:30. Bob (Mumphrey) up at noon & decided to go to Barrow, weather or no. So he left about 2:00, with our crepstones to leave in our truck, as well as the stuff for Solimane. Dorothy and I just walked down to the water front, then south of town on the airport road & I did some collecting in a rather dull spruce forest. Then back through town & out a bit on a road going north. Then home to the hotel, took baths & relaxed - not a very productive day.

July 29. Rain all night & still raining in morning, so slept a bit later than usual. Clouds finally became distinct, inquilable & rain occasional, so out about 10:30 or so road to airport & over 2 ridges to east, to make transects of muskeg, swamps, lake shore, birch, & spruce forest and willows & cedar scrub. Got very wet from fighting wet brush - willows not only terrible for being willows but all half dead wood - must have been a very dry season. Rain resumed & became sleat so started home & back at 4:00, so wet & cold that I took a hot bath to thaw. No sign of RHTD from Barrow. Didn't get our shipping dble.

July 30. A dark morning but no rain - just mist. Out on road north of town I looked at large area that had been bulldozed, presumably for an eventual gravel pit, as done south of Inniswit. Finally got Alvina, intractable with this diet. Then down to river, or at least the channel used by boats coming to Inniswit, near large oil tanks farm. Willows wet but not as bad as yesterday & very glad I went in, in spite of much reluctance, because a brand new moss to me - Myriophyllum ? - was growing in abundance on dirt over bases of willows, where inundated in flood times. God save us, with springthistles, for as dicotati. Back to hotel about

4:00 r put new moss in paper at once, to avoid having nothing but adobe bricks in plastic bags. Had always given up hope of arrival of plane when about 9:30 the hotel manager came up to tell us that the group had arrived, but that for lack of hotel space, they were being quartered in the Roman Catholic hostel for students. With strong north wind, the plane evidently had down around to S. end of runway or did not go over Irawith. Murphy & Alderfer with Dick Holmes & Jack Fieldt back about 10:00, so we went to pub & drank beer until about 12:30 - closing time.

July 31. Oversleeps + late for breakfast. Quietly packed stuff + off to airport about 10:00, but still had to gas. Off at 11:10 in R4D, with Fred Carpenter, the "chief" y Bander Island, his wife and 3(q/13) children, plus a lot of his friends. Soon over the heavy overcast + cruising over Sachs Harbour runway about 1:30. Finally landed on new strip under construction, met by Eric Davison, engineer in charge q construction, in a Bombardier, with the R.C. priest + several others. Very cold - perhaps 35° or a strong west wind with misty rain - good Barron weather! Very good lunch in construction crew mess + out into field at 2:00 with

promise of being back in 4 hours. went down to lake just N of camp or runway - eventually went around lake. Wind extremely wild when working into it, but- bearable when at back - we should have brought our parkas. Lake shore quite rich - wet for vegetation, but tundra itself very dry in spite of mist, consisting of a dry dusty silt in clods. Got Sphagnum vacuolosum & a peculiar Sphagnum moss - [illegible], but not typical ? - in quantity, and enough Cinnidin latifolium for exsiccata. Back to Camp at 6:00 with large plastic bag & 2 smaller ones full, for Sorting later. Davison had taken Dorothy & pilots on tour of village, down on seashore

perhaps 500 feet below ridge in strip, construction camp, weather station, etc., to meet some of people in village. At dinner, pilots decided that weather was too bad to take a chance on Bernard River tonight, with then further chance of not being able to land again at Sachs Harbour, which would mean going back to Innuit starting all over again. So, Davison gave up his snug little room with double decker to Dorothy & me, Murphy & Alder for get space in breakdown, while Dick & Jaap stayed in plane. Weather alternately mist night to ground or relatively clear. Fred Carpenter had left been on plane for present - spent very pleasant evening talking to man.

August 1. Up room after 6:00 & breakfast at 6:30. Weather dense but higher ceiling than yesterday. However, during breakfast, fog came back in, although with some visibility, so Humphrey decided to try Bernard River. Took off at 8:00 a., with such poor visibility, went up west wards of Banks I. at 200-300 ft. alt., in stead of overland, to be sure of reaching right river. Weather alternately worse & better - but essentially better than Sacha Harbour. Before take off, gave Davidson 2 rolls of Kodachrome as slight recompense for his courtesy & hospitality - with so much bad weather this summer I am long on film. Reached Bernard River mouth just before

9:00 turned east to follow valley. After Saven pass over sand & gravel bar that serves as runway, Bob Murphy made a very gentle touchdown - landing rough only after we were almost stopped and hit some small rocks. Plane needed almost flying speed to taxi; back to beach near tents. I was out about 9:30 in swales, low center polygons & lakes behind camp - to the north, with Dorothy. Area is surprisingly rich, especially after pessimistic reports by Mullen, who called it a "desert." The mosses show an area of high pH, and Jamp made pH analyses from a half dozen lakes - all 8.4 or 8.5. This explains total lack of Sphagnum. However, I don't understand not

Seeing Hydromnium and Rhytidium - a Fissidens or Mnium orthohyponium today. Got several things in quantity, for ovicatic, e.g. Trichostomum cuspidatissimum, Didymodon mufus (?), Andreaeomnium acuminatum, Bryum Wrightii & B. sp. common on draining basins & runways. Also got much Hyphoder, Sphacelum vesiculosum and a small unknown Sphacelum collected previously at Driftwood & elsewhere - perhaps only a reduced form of S. vesiculosum, but needs study. In briefly for lunch, then back to dry hill meadows, which are not very productive. In soon after 6:00, with 3 large pletri bags full - after 2 in the

morning. Bill Pichler's assistant set up our tent for us, so we got settled before dinner, which had to be in 3 sections of 3, piece plates, etc., had not been sent out for us by ARL, in spite of large amounts of food. I scrambled metal camp stove + borrowed gas stove from plane so we could have hot water in morning for coffee & to wash, and thereby not bother the camp, which arises late. Weather permitting, we will spend a half day tomorrow flying over the country north of here, to see much oxen and to find a better camp site for future seasons - this one selected more or less by chance - only 3 blamming all reason!

August 2. Up at 6:45, fixed coffee & out soon after 7:00, before rest of camp were stirring. Collecting good, although weather much cooler - 30° during night, Bill Maher reported. Fun for lunch just after 12:00 because, although weather would too good, it showed no signs of improving and Bob Murphy wanted to get our reconnaissance flight over. Off at 1:30, but to get an extra bit of runway for take-off on gravel beach, pilot got plane too close to river & wheels went through gravel, up to brake, they and power of engines. So we dug wheels out, but- left wheel in deeper & tended

to take plane closer to river. Finally got some women cloth wire a sized that - after 5-6 tries, with perhaps 10 feet of advance, Humphrey finally put full force on right engine, pulled plane around and struggled it out. Better gravel. Finally off again at 2:45, without trouble. Went straight north to Cape on north end of Bantus Island, seeing several marks over a corridor on way. East along coast to a big bay, then inland some distance back to coast in Cottett Bay, Cape Falcon Bluff. Turned west plan to take district, somewhere southeast of our camp area, with Prince of Wales Sound and Victoria Island in view on left -

North coast consists of mud & rock chips, something like the Bad Lands - clays and gravels, not too well consolidated, with almost no vegetation. Inland. South coast also of relatively soft rocks, clays & gravels, with few outcrops or real rock visible. Whole effect is of very dry area, with splendid barenness of plants and with very conspicuous patterned ground - polygons and soil stains on hillsides. Back at 6:45 after just 3 hours in air- walked out to bluff along river a mile or so from camp? got Stegonia. A good day, with brine Otholgyche & Frenaria polaris plus some other fill-in. Snow in the air at 10:30.

August 3. Up early 9 in field. Dorm after 7:00. Got enough more cheese whignose for distribution, afew other things. In before 8:30, packed, folded beds, tied up sleeping bags, air mattresses, etc., ate breakfast & got gear to plane before 10:00, our agreed time of departure. However, Maher had to write a letter or pack some specimens he wanted to send to ARL, so we didn't get loaded until 10:35 or in the air at 11:45. Dorstburg - I spent the time picking up small black, red & green pebbles! Flew overhead directly to Sachs Harbour, arriving at 11:45. Stopped only long enough to open down of plane & take mail from Eric Davison & back in the air again at 11:50. Weather at Sachs

Harbour good, although not Sunny; but cool wind and internat that mist gone - wish we could have had this weather for collecting. Arrived Inniskill at 2:15, but taxi just departing with personnel from another DC-3 that arrived before us, so we had to wait nearly a half hour for ride to town. Lunch at Hotel Mackenzie. Then Murphy to liquor store on business for ARL and the rest of us to Hudson Bay Store to look at Soapstone Canvases - everyone bought something. Then back to plane after having to locate customs man in hotel bar & taking him to his house where papers were to be signed by pilot. After plane was garaged, we

tark off at 5:50 - 3:50 Barnow tunic for trip of approximately 4 hours. Weather heavy, with no visibility of round at flying altitude, and cabin cold because of leaks in door, etc. Everyone got to Barnow almost asleep from lack of sleep, immediately, but crew cabin waked them up. My eyes tired from 3-hour flight. Yesterday, looking out sideways at tundra going by. Arrived Barnows at 8:00, on schedule, but nobody out to meet me - somehow on Saturday night the news just didn't get through. Finally, Norma Alderfer came out in jeep - she got news on home. Spent an hour or so getting bags of mooses in order for sorting.

August 4 (Sunday). Up at 7:30 want to cab to sort mosses. by moon, was through Flavite and Tinnite collecting the most critical because collected first and kept warmest, so most up to sprout or mold. However, everything ok - the Banks Island materials kept practically in deep freeze, although not by intention, and so in good shape. Got a good start on sorting the Sachs Harbour specimens, but too Tired to go back after dinner and continue. Worked with Don closed and saw almost nobody. Salomane stopped by & was pleased with carved soapstone figures we selected for him in Tinnite.

August 5. Up early - a very cold morning, below freezing. Continued sorting & recording & finished Sacha Harbour stuff by noon. Dorothy came in both morning & afternoon for a while, putting specimens in sheets. All material through Sacha Harbour put in freeze & oven dryer by 10:00 pm, and a good start made on sorting & cataloging the many large plastic bags of stuff from Bernard River. Found Uotria - a few plants - among tetraphydon, although looked for in vain in field! Collection better than I realized in field, looking at occasional puzzles with fines. Max Brown in, full of plans for future. Cashed checks for $200. To be sure of getting home.

August 6. Finished sorting and cataloging all specimens by noon, but most from Barnard River still not in papers by 2pm. After lunch, looked at specimens on dryer overnight - found them disappointingly wet. Put many out to air- dry & to make room for new material in press. By 6:00 pm. had everything either in press on the heater or else out exposed to dry air of room - a great relief, ca Donning. I worked most of day putting them in papers. Finally found Fissidens, not seen in field - other things will undoubtedly turn up. Dinner at Brown's. A real storm - walking home from lab was like being pitched.

August 7. Up early - in spite of turning promises late last night, everything still damp. By noon had everything exposed to air, laid flat on the heater, or actually dried. Max Brewer wanted to take me for a couple of hours to a dune area near the Columbia River Delta; but with wet specimens already on hand and with departure scheduled for tomorrow, I had to refuse - one of the first times! Went to lab after dinner & got last wet material laid out on heater for the night. Cliff Alderfer in - he was laid up with a terrible cold since return from Bemis Island. Letter to Susan Dukhane on Graham's death.

August 8. up at 6:00 + wrapped + packed specimens. Borrowed a coop, went home + picked up all some clothing to turn in plus 4 cartons of our own stuff for shipping. Taped up cartons - 12' - all + wrote memo to Max Brewer expressing hope that 3 cartons of Santa Island specimens can be sent by air - I will try to work through this material as soon as possible. Plane 1 hour late, so had time, finally, to do June & July progress reports. Could not find carton big enough for wristback so finally had to bring it along, too. A quick lunch, interrupted by the arrival of the Kalfs - Mrs. K. + the new baby had just come in on the plane - and Mary Lou + Billy Brewer, as well as Ted Humphrey

to pick up us and our baggage. Since plane was late, it made a quick turnaround & we were already aboard with door closed when Max & John arrived. Off at 1:00 & in humid - just before 2:00. Stopped long enough to see Bob Main - he's now flying a Beech for hire. Atlantic was drilling at Gubie and much activity in area by oil companies. Off at 2:15 & in Fairbanks at 3:45. Brooks Range closed in, as usual. Went to Travellers In to kill time - drinks & dinner - then back to airport at 7:00 for plane to Anchorage. Off at 8:00 and in Anchorage, on the ground, by 9:00, but very slow letting N passengers & motel unloading baggage. Thunderbird

August 9. Up at 8:00 r went to Motel office to find out if there was a place to eat within walking distance - just in time to receive a call from Northwest Airlines to call Allan Beattie. He had called Grace Dietz and she had gotten Northwest in New York to locate us. Fortunately, I had asked Northwest in Anchorage to make our reservations, so they know where to find us. God Dorothy r. We called Allan, to discover that Lois had planning and was much worse than we could have known from her letter we went at once to the airports and were able to

get reservations for Dorothy - To leave very soon for Seattle by Pacific Northern Airline, thence to San Francisco by Western. Also brought S. F. Idlewild ticket, without specific date. Then called Allan back to tell him of flight numbers and to have Bill meet her. Although we boarded at almost the same time, my plane waited almost an hour - some customs problem about arrival from Tokyo. Trip uneventful - few passengers & I had 3 seats to myself. Landed at Idlewild just before 12:00 midnight - no taxi, so had to take a regular one & pay regular fare double - Home about 1:30 am., Aug. 10.

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BANKS ISLAND Sachse Harbour, Banks Island 71°59'N, 125°12'W. WAC#61 (Amundsen Gulf) Bernard River Camp 73°25'N, 122°44'W. WAC#35 (M'Clure Strait) (letter from Brewer 6/13/63) Planning; T. H.) E. O. Höhn, A. H. Macpherson. The birds of Banks Island - Natl mus. Canada Bull 143. Biol. Ser No. 48. pp. 1-144. 1956

Meade River P.O. Coal Mine = Atkáruk on World Aeronautical Chart 63 (Brooks Range) 70°29'N.Lat., 157°26'W.Long [Atkáruk is 3 miles north] Notluck Lake - right on line between World Aeronautical Charts 63 (Brooks Range) and 64 (Utukotk River) 68°47'N.Lat., 160°00'W.Long. Point Barron 71°21'N, 156°19'W.Long. Inuvik 68°21'N, 133°40'W. See WAC 62 (Mackenzie Bay) Aklavik 68°13'N, 135°01'W. See WAC 62 (Mackenzie Bay) Cape Thompson 68°07'N, 165°55'W. See WAC 64 (Utukotk River)

6/27/63 Expenditures in Fairbanks pants $17.00 Boots 11.05 Stamps 8.00 plastic bags 5.00 wax pencils ttc. 6.30 5 rolls film 4.50 drugs 7.50 groceries ttc. gloves 5.11 underwear 4.63 film $54.00 6/20/63 maps

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