The diary of Edmund Heller, October 9, 1917-January 12, 1918 : covering his return trip from the First Asiatic Expedition led by Roy Chapman Andrews of the American Museum of Natural History

Heller, Edmund, 1875-1939; Sharf, Frederic Alan; Rich, Carol Baird; American Museum of Natural History; Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition (1st : 1916-1917)

Unknown

American Museum of Natural History Library

Original Source

Source Material:
Image from the Biodiversity Heritage Library. Contributed by American Museum of Natural History Library. | www.biodiversitylibrary.org

Description and travel Mammals Collection and preservation Travel Heller Edmund

Document Pages

348 Pages

China Am Miss. Retirer & Changia Peking to U.S.

WALKER'S LOOSE-LEAF BOOK PATENT. — COVER NUMBER 85.

Special Coll. Heller, Edmond Diary, Oct. 9, 1917- Jan. 12, 1918 LIBRARY OF THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY FOR THE PEOPLE FOR EDVCATION FOR SCIENCE

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P. L. Bryant Eng. 5 Jinkee Road Shanghai Editor Far Eastern Review Hale Burnstead & wife Oak Park Chicago Ill. President Chicago Camp Fire Club C Mr. Bosler Bay City Hot Spring Ark

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S. A. Christopher No.33 Park Road Rangoon Sportsman - Barrister, Eurasian. Big Game Shooting in Burma F. Bruce Cowley Darjeeling - Tea Planter Serow, leopards, muntjacs, bears B. Preston Clark 55 Kilby St. Boston E. A. Hartmann Phytophidae Raymond S. Curtice (Hunter) Am. Consul Seoul, Korea

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Mrs. Eliz. Low Lockport, Ills.

E.H. Everett American Post Office Shanghai T. Enami No.9. Beuten-dori Ichome Yokohama Colored slides, 50 Sen each, Best color + greatest opportunity & Brought 455 slides + labeled over 300 different ones. He sends many to Europe & America

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Childs Frick Montecito Santa Barbara Dr. G. Clyde Fisher Dept. Education American Museum, N.Y. J. H. Feehan Gen. Mgr., Central R.R. Penn China

Philip Goldring Hong Kong Barrister Mrs. Joseph, Heard 234 South 27th St. Lincoln Neb.

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Ger. Hennessy Sligo Hill Bargeeling 100 Tigers, 200 Leopards, Brit. E. Afr., Indigo Planter Edw. Houchines (Sanford Univ.) S.F. Paraffine Paint Co. Miriam Hedges 169 Poplar Street Mansfield, Ohio. Miss Hilda Hempel Hooper Research Lab, Argello + Parnassus ave. S.F.

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WALKERS LOOSE LEAF

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Mr. W. L. Morbill Mgr. Peruvian Corporation Lima

Machenzie Sec. Symbana Club Res. Darjeeling Bear, Muntjac, Clouded Leopard & Pygmy Barking (Rajaji) R.S. Miller Am. Consul General (Hunter) Seoul, Korea- Dr. Ralph Darfield Mills Severance Hospital Seoul Botany & Work Botanology J.H. Morris Met at Curitiba, Am. Comel's Seoul, Korea Sportsman, shot bear 550lbs., deadweight Kwun Pak - ta - San Fu Pper Yen Region.

Photographer K. Nagasaki no.39 Water Street Yokohama Colored slides, 50 sen (½ yen) each

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H. B. Osborn Ass. Vice Counsel Rangoon

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J (ames) Smith Manager Nat. Bank of India Rangoon Thos. Sammons Esq. Consul General U.S.A. Shanghai Miss Kath. S. Smith Dept. Education Ann. Museum, N.Y. Mrs. Ant. Scanlan 230 N. Helena Ave Freeport, Ill.

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H.H. Underwood Seoul Korea Authority on Korea's Library Speaks Korean. Shot bears, leopards, deer.

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Warner A.H. Grand Island, Calif Bredger Barber Stewart Edward White Burlingame, Calif. Phon San Mateo 1034

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October 1917 The council invited us to a house boat party on Wednesday. 9. The fall weather is clear & crisp, delightfully stimulating Finance in China as conducted by the European Banks which control the country is a row-deal All values are based on the Tael which is not a coinage system but a mythical affair in the shape of an ounce of silver. After your gold is converted into Tael at the usual discount of 40-5% it must be again converted into Mexican or local Chinese dollars at another 4 or 5% discount. The Chinese have tried to regulate their own coinage

A common vehicle on the streets of Shanghai is the wheel-barrow. A single chinese man trudges along behind the barrow which has a great wheel in the center covered over by a stage so that the cargo does not touch it. Goods of merchandise then number are carried on these barrows.

three Chinese banks but the European Banks are too strong for them. 10 Counsel-general Sannous entertained a party of America on a house boat today + joined them at his invitation Bunstead + wife went with me. On the boat which lay at garden bridge in show creek we met the first actors members Mrs. Mrs. Bryant of the Far Eastern Review The U.S. Postmaster, his wife & daugh- ter, Mr. Evereth Mrs. T Mrs. Whipples of the Bureau of Commerce, Messrs. Jones Miss Smith, & Mr. Sannoun whose wife is not present in America. The day was partly overcast + much of the reflection was thus avoided

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After spending our way slowly up Sothow Creek amid the Chinese boats loaded with cotton, flour, vegetables, eggs, silk, corn, to complete we returned head up the river following the Brand to past punch shippings as far as the outskirts of the town to the arsenal where we turned about followed down the other shore . We crossed over to the Brand again, We reached our starting place at Sothow Creek at 4 P.M. II Most of my time was occupied in packing my thumbs for threshing to Yobohoma. After tiffin I went with [illegible]

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to a gun store where we were told by the manager that the Chinese Government did not allow them to keep only a few guns for sale at a time but most of their stocks must be kept in the vault, warehouse where permission for direct guns another sale was given by the vault. Shot shells (Peters loaded) were 8.50 Mex 1.00 which is not high landed here. From the gun store we went to the Chinese fur shops on Homan Road. Most of the furs are said to come from Manchuria, all were well tanned. They had series of skins of snow leopards with the claws attached for $3.00. 48.00 Mex. Highly colored orange tigers were 150.00 Mex. White a guy was spinning large size 7 were 15.00 Mex 20.00.

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There were common Leopard robes made of river cat, red fox, badger, marten, weasel + gray squirrel. I saw no flying squirrel skins & the merchant said there were none in the market. In one shop I saw a coat made of a light fulvous mink with the tail protruding for $150.00. Very, only, there minks were much lighter than any N. Am. species very pretty. A few dark brown bear with silver tipped hair were also on sale. 12 I spent the afternoon at the library of the Asiatic Society in the M.H. Museum building. The library is small but well arranged + cared for

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by Chinese Assistants who Talk English well. They have a good card catalog by authors & subjects. I found quite a number of new books to use on Yun-nan stone in French + German as well as English 13 The steamer Tungchow C.N.C. sailed at 10 A.M. from the French Bund for Tien tsi Bryant, the Editor of the Far Eastern Review was down to see us off & gave me a letter of introduction to a Peking friend. He spoke of some work on traveling ancient cursed cities in desert China. Burnet & wife are there, people I know on board.

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We cast off on morning at 10 am. + steamed down the Whangpoo in a fresh North wind & clear bright Sky. A large French Managery Steamer followed us out, At Wasing we saw the large Empress of Asia at anchor waiting to proceed to America this afternoon. We crossed the mouth of the Yangtze behind the shelter of some large low islands in the mouth. The Door of the River Yangtze is very wide & it was not until 4 P M that we reached the north side + passed the small high Island with its white light house at aper. The Yangtze is

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a uniform red brown muddy stream. Seabirds were quite lacking, the only birds at in sight being a few brown bits. 14 The sea has been beautifully smooth today. The sun bright & the water deep blue but no seabirds have appeared in this calm scene. One of the remarks Brumstead has made about Wallace's Book on Big Game in China which I loaned him is: Why didn't the Expedition carry a Tent & live in it instead of getting stuck in cramped caves for long rain spells. Hartmann made the same remark about the book. One of the ladies on board has a beautiful gray squirrel cat

made of Manchurian squirrels in Peking for 2.50. Itales by a local farmer. It is a very pretty coat although rare & deornised. This evening Binnstrad above we several land birds which had taken refuge on the ship. There were flying yellow winged finches, & several species of small larks - finch brushes all migratory birds I have not doubt. 15 This morning at 6 A.M. we steamed into the harbor of Wei-hai-wei + dropped anchor about 1/2 mile off the port, as there is no dock at this station. The harbor is a beautifully land locked one with environs by a tall line of sharp bare peaks + the water is deep & clear sea green. Back of the sand beach the land of Sperg is the hills + the town (British) occupies the rising ground near

the west entrance. The old Chinese town with its great wall encircling it occupies the bend of the bay where the land is low + level. The beach line looked beautifully sandy + fine for bathing. A large garrison of native troops under British Officers were stationed in barracks near the west entrance. Graths + Sampans with crews of fishermen were scattered about over the bay + the sea beyond. The hills were bare yellow granite or gneiss with a few scrubby green bushes sturdy scattered about. A few large white gulls were riding on the surface of the bay. And further off black cormorants sat in rows on exposed rocks; The summer cottages & school house [illegible] very comfortably for Europeans.

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Leaving Wei hai wei at 7 P.M. We steamed up to the coast to Chee fu where we dropped anchor four hours later at 1-11 A.M. The eastern side of the entrance is protected by a long line of low yellow rocky hills, of which extend for out into the blue sea & are continued at their tip by a further small yellow island of linear shape. The Captain showed us of a Japanese steamer which went ashore on this point in a heavy snow storm last winter. The boat mistook one of the gaps in the shaggy port for the entrance & ran straight ashore where the surface dashed over the North ice, A whole cluster of Chinese Passengers who had climbed up the mast to save themselves were there frozen stiff with. A black block is a relief.

could reach this ship thru the stary. These Chinese remained Friday frozen in the ice on the mast. Cheer was a foreign appearance as regard it large several stoned houses. Behind it rose a series of high semi bare but terraced hills. Many sand pany and yet to our steamer bearing large red eggs - apples, peas, red grapes, power granite, peanuts etc. At least 50% of these Chinese men still bare cries at the same sort of appendage was noticed & in mei-hai-wa? From Shanghai south however A saw practically no ones but these northerners have not yet discarded their 16 At breakfast time two were steaming by the muddy waters of the Shelf of Chile thru the wind

The Captain said that the midwinter to bay approach to Tabu are frozen over x rarely must break through for a month or more. I was surprised that it is so cold so far south as this bay considering how tropical Hong Kong is at no great distance south

visel carried down by the bravery to which is now in flood. The, broken its banks throwned hundreds of Chinese south of Tientsin. We reached the bar at 10 A.M. and dropped anchor to await high tide for crowd. The bar has recently settled up, and now only very shallow-draft vessel can cross. The Tsiang-hou discharged all her cargo into lighters to allow her to cross, but at 2 P.M. it was very muddy the water for shallow-draft vessels remained at anchor for the whole day but will cross to night at 3 A.M., high tide. The shore line with a few buildings near Takan is just visible. 17 This morning at 3 A.M., the steamer crossed the bar

Near Tangbu a peculiar type of windmill was seen, a horizontal affair worked by screens of canvas which revolve about a vertical rod which pumps sea water into earthen baths. Here it is evaporated & forms one of the chief articles of export.

and at daylight we were anchored in the Pei-Ho River Taky but disembarked at Taungbin R.R. station & took the train to Tientsin. This was a 2 hour ride. We passed through the flooded district and saw villages & houses standing in 7 or 4 feet of muddy water. The refugees were gathered in cave huts along the R.R. embankment in the such villages as were on high ground & had escaped. The tops of some fields with grain were to be seen all along the way, but this gain had not yet been harvested. On reaching Tientsin we went at once to find Somerby at the Tientsin Times Gazette where he is now holding down the Editorial Chair. We found him a fine man of 40 years the sort that is capable of carrying through anything

enterprise. He launched with us at the Imperial Hotel + then we took nickshaws for a ride to his house set in the submerged part of town. Halfway to his place we changed our nickshaw for a boat + pulled along the flooded street to his house the basement of which was under water + 3 feet of water stood in his yard, about half of Tientsin is in this aquatic state. He showed us his fritures, He had 3 sheep, bred, at the wall from York Shansi (His judata the named sheep, one of the leastest homes sheeps in the world. He had a white Tabun from Lamsa Burdorcs Bedford, which is a distinct whit race. He showed us the Jodyskin, which was also pure white + used as an egg. He said no other color existed in this northernmost range of the Tabuna. He had

about the house a spotted Chinese wild cat which was as tame as any kitten I could be stroked by anyone. He shoud no series of Jerboa's, Dibes, chipmunks, mice, Rattlings, Apodemes, Hares, flying squirrels, Spermaphiles, bats etc. Sowerby gave me to recent papers of his on Pore Hends' manicual names which he has been recently convened with at Li-Banwei. It is the 1st naturalist to actually examining the lippe Specimens material gathered by the Jesuit's Feather, Sowerby is a fine type of sportsman devoted to natural history & in love with the excitement of the chase, a real Savage with possessed of the best noble sentiments & a hunter. His books on Chinese game are filled with evidence his intense enthusiasm for the

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chase & natural history. His wife had some pet birds of various sorts in a cage but said that the Chinese servants showed no interest or kindness toward pet animals & could not be trusted to feed them. This lack of sympathy seems to be characteristic of the Chinese. At 4:45 we took the train for Peking. Tientsin has a foreign appearance & is similar to the rows of European houses & business shops. There is a British, French, Japanese, Italian & German sections with the streets named in these languages. The R.R. trip up to Peking was over fields of the millet with number or flooded fields at intervals. We reached Peking at 8 p.m. We went to a Ueagoo fit, Hotel near the station &

Section of the Tartar city just inside the great wall. 18 Being short of Cash I called on Mr. Robert Rambin manager of Anderson & Meyer Co., to whom Clark had given me a letter. He was very hospitable & endorsed my check without hesitation & asked me to lunch. His house is a clean one surrounded by a large compound. He is a Cornell man & good friend of Louis Furetiz. His wife was a good sort. Rambin was a passenger on the Lusitania when she was sunk. He was on the deck & saw the torpedo strike & then he jumped overboard without a life preserver & was picked up by a life boat. He said the story of passengers being sucked into the sunken state then blown with an explosion was untrue. One woman

claimed this fear but she was covered with sort as from fall of them were equally sort over own to the sea being thus covered generally. He said this particular woman because insane jumped overboard after being put into a life boat. One of the sights of Peking is to be obtained from the great well marking the Tartar City. At 3 P.M. I went with Mr. Burnstead to the Observatory which is situated on the east wall at a spot where a stairway of steps leads to the top. The instruments of the observatory nearly bronze mounted on stone bases in the open. There was a sphere with the stars + milky way indicated; a giant sextant marked in degrees was another instrument. Several circles of bronze set at various angles in a common axis. There is a cleared space about the well on its inner.

Peking is an exceptionally lean Chinese city free from Offensive odors as far as the Tartar city, & the enclosing cities, that Imperial & Forbidden. The Chinese city is said to be Sincely but we mist there was no more annoying. + There was no evidence of filth such as to seen in Amoy, Fuchuan or Canton.

side for military purposes, here I saw one wide boy about 10 yrs old, Alto the wealth is chilly now, Several good sized Chow dogs were slatting about. We ascended to the top of the wall + walked along its top, This made of huge gray bricks & the top's 30 feet wide & lined by a rank growth of pines & Thorny Jiphonius bushes. At the commences of the wall are good pagoda Gates built in several stones. The wall itself is immense, being 50 feet high, 40 feet wide + having a four foot wall of masonry with outer surface notched for guns or rifle fire. From the southern Wall we could see over the Native City & down to the R.R. which borders the southern edge of the wall. Soldiers of all nations are seen doing grand duty in the Legion

I dined with the Bensleat + several Americans at the hotel. There was Mrs. Hopkins of Poling [illegible] of the U.S. Steel Co.! Mr. Ray the Bureau of Commerce, John a member of the Cosmos Club - Mr. Herrin who is investigating financial conditions for the M.S. Govt, + 2 other men. Mr. F.R. Rhea a Cosmos Club member is investigating R.R. in China for the U.S.A. Another member of the party was A. Foster Bain a Mining Engineer from California

section y Peking near the Wagon-Lite Hotel, 19] The days are clear & dry, the weather bracing but not cold even at night, only comfortable. At 10 A.m. we left started from the Wagon-Lite with a Cabbie in Rickshaw for the Forbidden City. First we went to the Winter Palace which is open by Special Pass to visitors. Here Yuan Shih Kai held his court recently. The way led along wide streets, 60 feet wide which are now the rule in Peking. The Winter Palace is situated on a high hill in the Tartar City just on the border of the Forbidden City, a hundred yards from Coal Hill a higher hill topped by a Temple reserved to the use of Emperors. The Winter Palace is reached by a series of marble stairways up the steep hill three lengths. At the top a large pagoda with a golden

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done stands dominant. At the base of the hill a small pond or lake covered by Lotus Lily's spreads practically about the hill + is crossed by marble bridges of several spans in 2 places through the summit of the hill at the Paggoda Dore Polising spreads out in all directions but the traveller is bewildered to find that only a vast forest of trees is spread as before with an occasional pagoda or gate country up around the green Polising is virtually hidden by its trees which are features of all its compounds + as it is a city of magnificent distances the trees dominate. The forest trees on the hill were chiefly gingko, with yellow pine, a peculiar very white barbed pine, ash (acacia) trees + willows about all the lakes + streams,

From the Winter Palace Descended from a tunnel in the limestone rocks to the borders of the lake where a fine marble promenade flanked the water with a row of compartments where dwell the numerous wine or concubines, if the emperors in former times. This building was highly ornate + extended the whole length (2 miles) of the promenade. The walls + ceiling were ornamented in gay Chinese painting of lands- capes, hunting, fishing + dom- estic scenes. About noon we entered the Forbidden City then its pink or red wall. Within this quiet without much human life. The buildings were gay with golden yellow tiled roofs, green + blue gables + white marble approaches + courts. Some of the buildings were covered by green tiles.

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The scene was splendidly colorful + a painter or color photographer could give me an idea of its brilliance. The place was a lovely arrangement (thickly) of pea-green lush weed, crossed by marble bridges + flanked by marble blocks. Meant to be the Museum which contains rare treasures of art with royal families like chinoiserie, porcelains, ivories, bronzes, Chinese silver, rugs, arms, etc.! The museum was splendidly clean, the exhibits in glass cases + well labeled in Chinese characters. Every object was bright + attractive + the place was roped off to the visitors and to proceed in one door + and out the other. Of the Chinese rooms were wonderful affairs.

color + rich in material. An Emperor's Saddlery was studied by several hundred people. One of the curious exhibits was a drum made of bamboo shells some across that across these were straletted hummusstain is a sounding medium. Model of giant flowers on brea trees were made of precious stones of various colors, the leaves made of silver wire + plate colored green. After tipping at 3 P.M., we left pithing then the Chinese city + near the Temple of Heaven which is situated in a large court of 100 acres, covered by grass + trees without buildings or people. The marble columns + stage of the Temple are beautiful. Northly is a pagoda of strange On our way levels to quickly up! the Balpean and this

Temple only once a year To pray for a successful wigan * to god or Buddha - On our way back we saw the Chinese trying on or for sale ponies near one of their walls. The ponies were being ridden at a fast single-foot past a crowd of spectators. We stopped in a bar shop near the south wall where a large stock of horses & coats were shown. Coats made of Mountain goat $2,000,00 $1,000, a skin price were shown; Wild cat, gray squirrel, etc were much less, $20.00 usually Pangal skins were $30.- 40., Horses of many colors were shown us, red, brown, gray, white, etc, 2.0 At 8:15 AM I left the hotel with the Brunnsleeds in a motor car for the Hsi Chi Man station situated 4 miles away and N.W. gate of the Tartar

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city. We had a pleasant ride through the crisp cold air in a Ford car of growing insects. The trip by train was over level fields which were being plowed for wheat or winter crops. On the distance at starting could be seen a Pagoda topping a hill + Nearby the Summer Palace on another hill. 1 From here we reach Manchurian city, from this point rugged mountains came in view. The station of Ching Feng Chiao was on place of interception for the pass. Before reaching this station we had passed by tunnel under the Great Wall which could be seen topping the hills in a zigzag course. After tubing tipping at Ching Feng Chiao we walked to the Pao Kane Qiao

Beyond, The R.R., here does a switch back yet Rainbow Pass actually passes thru a tunnel of the heads of the divide. The arest wall is seen it Rainbow pass gizgiggy or be links into Pebble at the pass itself the road passes under the walls there double gates, I here saw donkey's milk caravans 4 miles with loads passing through. The mountains hill's here are rugged composed of granite, great formations of which hang on the hillsides. The route is built like granite tipped by a few feet of gray bricks raised into a rampart, would not last for gunnery

Beyond some 20 mile away on the horizon could be seen a range of blue mountains on the summits of which patches of snow could be seen with the field glasses. The snow fields were old banks which are doubtless permanent affairs, no forests could be seen in the mountains, which appeared grass covered.

The hillsides were clothed in dried grass & herbs. Some bleached during the summer, In Flower + Clematis. Kris were clean in seed. There were plenty of sheep & a few goats visible, but nowhere was the grass close cropped by cattle. There is still much room for cattle. Sprawling Willows lined the roads + the crops grown were turnips, cabbages, millet & beans. We returned to Pelsing at dark. (21) The morning was cloudy or foggy rather + more comfortable than the dry glory sunshine of the past week. At the Zoo + Botanic gardens

we founder giant China as guard. He was 8 feet Tall apparently where photographed him. Notbroth was a guard also + well over 6 feet high. The animals were a few deer, mupite, Apis, rose etc a zebra, elephant, 'Nilgai', Leopard, jaguar, lion, panther, birds of many species. Unimportant not many Chinese species were exhibited but only foreign animals. The Botanic gardens had half a dozen labelled foreign Trees (prag chiefly) + was a poor display for so rich a land as China in flowers & trees

The horse market situated in a field near the Temple of Heaven is interesting. Here are to be seen many mongolian ponies for sale with being led about a large ring saddled ready to ride. The purchaser rides or buys some one ride the pony on a straight away course following the wall. The gait is always a fast even trot or single foot which gives the rider a steady sear seat. Rebbing cart horses are also offered strided out here. The baby carting a small cart set down solidly on the axles of the wheels which are about 3 feet in diameter + heart studded on the fellows with iron bolts. The cart is bodied over by a curved horse of blue cloth open at the front. [illegible] wheel Barrow to Love coming [illegible] river on the streets but

rickshaws are the common conveniange. It is very seldom that a Sedan chair is seen in Peking. Automobiles are more common as there are no roads out side the city where they can travel. Camels are quite often seen, but since the RR to Kalgan & the Mongolian, border has taken possession of the freight trade they are rare now. The camels are great large brutes of the Bactrian type having 2 high humps between which the saddle is securely placed. At the great wall at Nanbou yesterday > was interested to see several pack horses [illegible] & donkeys which will carried the double pack saddles as in your man. No

girth being in use. An old custom I have noticed here is the carrying of various small birds about on a stick or perch. They are fastened to the sticks by a string attached to the sternum or breast bone apparently Finches, Chichadees, pipits. Other birds are thus treated. Peabingers dogs are also seen here & treated as lap dogs being carried about in the areas as in America. Those I have seen are reddish haired & larger than our breeds. These same Chinese women who pet dogs smoke cigarettes, inhaling the smoke & exhaling it thru the nostrils. Chow dogs are common on the street but are strays & without definite owners. 22 We visited picnics against the Burnsteads, purchased a fine gray acquired strain coat for 70.00 & a Maroon coat for [illegible]

Peking is without any Natural History Museum. It's behind Shanghai in this regard. A well arrayed National Collection would be much educational. A Disadvantage to the Chinese

Tredencolor for $60.00. The shop had a creamy yellow short haired spin which was also made into coat & would prepare a pole coat sports, the author Draws a fine Manchurian tiger skin with long hair for $200.00. This on most tawny ground which is the rule in Manchurian Tigers. This shop had also 3 fine orange colored tiger skins of the usual short haired sort these were cheaper $150.00 to $100.00 each. Next, I saw two panda, or flying squirrel skins in any of the shops, the skins here all coming from Mongolia & Manchurian + some from Southeastern Tibet where these species are found + We took dinner at the Y.W.C.A. with some 10 American college girls who have recently reached China to devote themselves to Y.W.C.A work here.

They were a cheerful enthusiastic lot of warm mind but they have 5 years of work here before their first perorough home From the Peking Station they are sent out over China after certain study of Chinese. When they are there upon their own resources & sources the real struggle begins in their stem missionary work. I should think they would be much happier as wives at home. 2.3) This morning I called on Dr. Geo. F. Morrison, the Australian who is the greatest living authority on China & the European literature concerning it. He has recently disposed of his library which was very complete to a Japanese who has it now in Tokyo.

He told me of many books on China man & seemed to have a vast fund of book knowledge on China. He showed me a series of pamphlets on birds & mammals by various authors all well arranged. He is exceedingly friendly & considerate in his manner & open minded, showing no tendency to pose as an absolute authority. He is physically in fine condition & appears to be about 50 year, old hair is not gray or bald or bent but of erect carriage & ruddy complexion. He is very much interested in natural history & has a good general library of books on big game & birds. He is leaving Peking soon for Australia on 6 months leave.

His wife & small son 7yrs old were at home & showed a very friendly attitude to him & all his interests. His job of Sir Richard Dave who has hunted game in East Africa but is now away from Pebburg being in Mongolia. Tangdon Warner has given up his school of Archaeology & returned to America or Tokyo. Mr. Morrison told me that the Keeper at the Zoo had lost many of the animals originally purchased from Hagenbeck because the Chinese Keepers had stolen the food from the animals & let them starve. The head keeper, a European had gone almost insane trying to prevent this sort of cruelty. The Chinese

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have no such sympathy for helpless animal life as we possess. This afternoon we visited the Central park, a pleasure part near the Forbidden City. Here are kept a paddock of papi's deer & stags but all the B's were hornless having had the horny sawed off when in the wild for sale as medicine a profit &c. affix for the park authorities. Somebody says the deer are farmed for this purpose in some localities. In the park are tea houses, cakes, flower beds, juniper pine, eta, & many better than Chinese men I can see here. It was sad to note the absence of lovers in the shaded walks. The big ropes were never seen together like women walking in pairs or trios of the men

Carnell is a yale graduate, A Florida man & has only Recently come out of Mexico. He is the last man I Should ever expect to see in Peking.

upperclass doing likewise. A Chinese is rarely or never seen in public with his family. From conception of life he misses the chief pleasing the free association with them as a sweetheart at all times. Women may's stay in joins holding hands & long liens, but never the two opposite sexes are thus seen. The parties in China are a sad waste as far as The leader passions concerned. Dining tonight at the hotel Rhea took me to a table where 2 men were seated one, Carroll, a civil engineer, whom I had met in Kharagzi Mexico ten years ago. He remembered me well. He has been in China only one year, but on the upper Yangtze, in Szechwan, near Chongking.

He has seen little game in that country but the mountains are very high well above 20000 feet, he says 24) The misty rain a drizzle of droned which continued with storms. In the afternoon I went out with our guide Ped who took me to that famous Tibetan Temple, at 4:30 and occurred a gangster the drums with howls praises chanting hymns. Some of its monks very deep voices wonderful. Before the chief temple there about 20 monks in young boys chanting in the world except men 41m pockets clumps, blowing long bronze horns

On one of the wide streets of Peking a fair was in progress. Here I saw several falcons with loaded quarrels on their wrists. These birds are used here for catching hares & game birds for the market the price of ammunition to secured game being much greater than the marked price of the game so that maintaining is the method which alone can be successfully employed today.

10 feet immense length Resting on saw-horses Maybe 10 and 20. Some 4 small boys were beating large drums + the old monks were singing + clapping cymbals, The din was terrific from this large battery + the result discordant. One of the Temples nearby is famous for a giant standing Buddha some 80 feet high, In his left a Lama offers you a lighted taper with which to light a candle sealed to Buddha + which will give you good fortune. In another Temple there shown a series of Obscene Buddhas standing over prostrate women which and in the act of copulating with various animals such as foxes, pigs, dogs etc. These figures are depicted in silk garments which are reserved for men only.

The lamas all wore long red robes, the large yellow robes. The faces were often distinctly Chinese with narrow eyes + not the heavy features of the Tibetan. The characters on the temples were Chinese, not Tibetan. There are 100 monks here supported by the gark, but under the Republic this support is decreasing. I had some difficulty in getting the guide Pei to show me to the feet of a bound footed woman. The only ones which will permit their feet to be seen are prostitutes. The ones we saw were two simple squeezed vespasians + a small with the large toe and a sharp point, for in advance the others. While the toes had not been bent down & turned under as I had been led to believe.

I purchased a Chinese custom long silk grey robe silk trousers silk shoes + silk 'low cap' for $12.00 Mex. Having an ulcerated tooth I enquired for a dentist but an American resident said there were no European dentists in Peking, only Chinese which had been educated in America. I took the 8:35 P.M. train for Mukden + the Benshick saw me off. 25 at daylight we were travelling through level fields of ripe millet standing 3 feet high, Chinese were harvesting this crop in many places. Some miles away sharp rocky hills could be seen + far away higher rugged ridges. In places the rocks started the sea where low sand dunes were seen;

The morning was rainy, but at noon it cleared up. The scene shown, the city There is not a deep railroad nor a tunnel on the whole line.

At every station a guard of Chinese soldiers lined up on the station platforms as a guard with piled bayonets. They looked quite good in grey uniforms. On a few stations there were Japanese guards also. The Manchurian houses are here roofed without angles or tiles but are covered + look quite different from China. At Shandailinman station we passed under the Great Wall which is here a part of the City wall + reaches the sea. Beyond only a small section can be seen crossing the plain to the high rugged ranges marking the horizon inland. The railroad thru level fields of millet with herds of black pigs, white sheep + a few large cattle grazing. It was no engineering feat to build the line.

Pros were the only birds seen along what route. These occurred in great flocks, often flying.

The only trees in the landscape were willows, a line which bordered the R.R. Others were seen about villages + a few on the borders of ponds + small streams. Many streams we Crossed, all Dallar creeks flowing in wide sandy beds like desert streams only filled during the rains. We arrived at Mukden at 7:30 in to dark. The station is a wide well arranged affair with a good Japanese Hotel (courtesy) where we took dinner of lobsters, Steak weight [illegible]. All the privates were [illegible] + [illegible] very [illegible], From the station extended [illegible] wide streets 250 feet wide with Chinese hotels (good appearance) bordering them. The walled Chinese city some distance

The berths, run transversely are six feet long & quite comfortable accordingly. This convenience is a sort of paradox on our system of cramped Pullman quarters. Here you have under Japanese management the longest berths in a country where humanity is of the shortest statute!! The attendants all understand & speak English, a luxury not enjoyed in southern or Latin Europe, notwithstanding the predominance of English speaking travellers. More Jap efficiency is here displayed.

we did not visit it. The air was cold & penetrating but briskingly pleasant. at 10.8. m. I departed from my own cabin in a Frenchman from Paris with tiniques & quarters at the preparat- count came on to join our northward to Harbin. The Japanese receive a very good brown sleeping car to Antung on the Yalu River where we arrived next morning at 6:30 AM. (26) Here we changed cars against day coaches on the Chosen R.R. of Korea. The is a fine wide stream crossed by a long steel bridge, many marks & sampans lined the shore & a few steam launches were seen & small quays. Immediately on

The Japanese have shown themselves highly efficient in Korea with the exception of their cursed custom of changing all geographical names to totally different Japanese is wiping out all historical & time honored names. Their railroad trains are decently managed, neat, meal well served & the trainmen polite & served in some English. The Chosen hotel has every comfort from a American & European standpoint, no detail being omitted.

Reaching the other side (Korea) the white robed Korean peasants were seen at stations on the rivershore. The Japanese only are in charge of the RRT the stations. The fields & villages are purely Korean inhabited. The farm houses are built like structures built of mud walls & thatched roofs. The chief crop appeared to be millet which was all harvested only stalks of stalks remaining in the fields. Some millet fields seem Rice fields occupied all level valleys. Behind Autung a jagged series of peaks hills were covered by low scrub bushes & deciduous trees. The place pine trees of small size had been planted on the hills many berries picturesquely contrasted with snow.

in which respect they are superior to European managed Shanghai, (Hong Kong, or Peking Hotels. The Japanese are certainly - wonderfully trained & organized people!! The illustrated folder for the Chosen (Korean) RR is the most complete, clear & brown of. Each station is boldly marked on the line as well as Tunnels, rivers, & below are given photos of scenes around with numbers on the map showing where these places occur.

The Korean is in build features nearest Japanese In this larger decidedly and much lighter in complexion. The men wear white baggy trousers to the ankles, long white coats & a small black graze top hat beneath which the cue can be seen than the meshes of the crab. The women wear the same large baggy trousers but over that a long white skirt to the ankle or a short jacket to the waste line. Often this latter is lifted up to the teats protrude, especially in women carrying nursing children. The women wear a white turban. Many of the people have narrow slant eyes as do also the Japs which gives them a more Chinese appearance than the close average Chinese. Rice Willet saw the only crops in evidence. Vegetable gardens

onion of lettuce, turnips, carrots, & It were seen in places, Firmit trees were rare. The Sprine was planted on dry hills, bordering the villages were Some Cunningham fir, cotton- woods (poplars) willows, walnuts, several species of asarig like legume trees etc. The tree growth was varied compared To the Nubblem district were the willow alone grew Central Cheida has a much greater floral display, fruit stock was absent largely, no pigs or sheep or goats whatever were in view; the only common beast was a large jackal ox. Horses were rare. Chickens & ducks were also rare, at times we got glimpses of the sea as we started the low tidal flats of rivers & in the purple distance mountain ranges were seen in view blue & clad by some vegetation but seldom by much forest

At the hotel in trying to change Pobury currency I got in conversation with the Korean guide & he took me to a Korean theater. We reached this place at 9 P.M. found it consisted of a ground floor & a gallery above. The men were in the audience were separated from the women as in China, the woman occupying the left side of the ground floor & the gallery & the men the right side center. The theater was an opera of sorts. On our entry a prima donna Korea was singing alone with the central [illegible] [illegible] [illegible]

The hill sides were brown with grass but no stock was visible to crop the herbage. The Jap saddle used is a modification of the Chinese & has two large wooden ribs which on which the goods are fastened of side by balance. Just before dark at 5:45 we passed thru the city of Kaijo a sea of small thatched huts, many of them roofed brilliant red with drying peppers. The ginseng is cultivated & some beds were seen covered by straw deltas to protect the precious plants. At 7:38 we reached Seoul & Lewis driven in a motor to the chosen hotel by Japanese attendants who were exceedingly polite & efficient.

Rather like a chained elephant in Azor. The music was weird & monotonous & The lady waved her arms about in accompani ment holding in either hand a long lantern like affair striped in all the colors of the rainbow. After she exhausted herself of a bevy of 8 Korean maidens whirling the much white & pale green flowing garments executed actions to the accompaniment of a long cylindrical drum carried by one of their number. These women sang in high voices & faced each other in a line as in a Virginia reel; we departed.

It rained slowly all morning. 27 I had a pleasant revelation at the chief Japanese bank in Seoul! They accepted my craft on Kbp for 400. yes, & cashed it without any endorsement which is more confidence than any American or European Bank has shown in me. Further they charged me only ½ yen or 50 cents & not that 7 generous percent which Chinese banks or European control charge their fellowman, I must confess the Japs show much confidence in foreigners & are well beyond the average in friendship. The Yellow Peril is chiefly in the superior consideration with which the Japs treat us than badly we treat one another

before they had concluded, The audience showed little enthusiasm, but were very attentive & well mannered,

I called at the American Consulate. Was welcomed by Mr. Curtis, the consul. He is a sportsman. Has shot birds each season in Korea. The Consul General Miller was away in Washington but he also is a sportsman. Curtis took me to call on Mr. Underwood who is an authority on Korea & the Mr. Ben Underwood, the best Brown European in Korea. Underwood showed 2 good Stains he shot in Korea. They were long haired like prime wolf Stains, very different from the short haired Yunnan stains. It had large long haired leopard Stains from Korea. These are very large & the sportsman without lighter colors. He had best body stains of the Korean Siba, but has never seen this variety, which are confined to the Manchurian

border near the Sacred White Water Lake. Roe Deer he also fed. The wolf he has never shot. Bears he has killed of the head of an large one he showed me mounted. Curtis, affirmed he saw one weighed at 500 lbs. Killed by Natives. This is well overall records for Boars of the world. Underwood [illegible] asked me to send him lists of any literature on Korean animals as he is quite ignorant of such publications. He has never gotten a shot at a tiger but the Koreans have tried to beat them out to him on occasions. It rained all day but notwithstanding I went out after tiffin to the Zoo with the guide. We saw many cages of large mammals, 2 brown bears, one Tiger, 2 Korean long-haired leopards, 2 K. Lynx, 2 K. Psecomorph, [illegible]

was surprised to find 4 Theroleplus a water deer from Korea here in a paddock. Underwood said he had shot them here. The Korean Sika was represented by a large S, several 95x 123 S. They are formed by the Koreans be said for their horns on the velvet which they use as medicine & the blood as a sovereign remedy as well. They had here a very long tusked Indian Elephant, & pair of Reindeer, Muntjacs, Ravens, alderges, Turany birds. In a Building in the park was a large collection of mounted birds, The reptiles or fish seen in the park except 3 small Chinese alligators, the 12 I have seen Underwood gave me a pamphlet he has written on big game in Korea published by Roy. Asiatic Society.

He has used the 401 Winchester Automatic a brass with success never had it jam. Curtis gave me a humorous account of Portions the Ann coupled Hichomb's wedding at which he acted as groom & tied the Knot on a train travelling outside an hour out of his territory. 28 During the night the rain ceased at 10 AM after breakfast I went with the guide to Nanzen Ponta, a high forest clad hill in the east of the town. Thence we ascended then drove a contracted pitch price by a pretty winding road. From the crest the city of Seoul lay spread out at 100 feet. The houses were chiefly tiled Japanese style but outside the wall were clusters of thatched roofed Korean huts. North of the city a high rugged range of

hills oftended, brush & grass clad in places & decended in others. The old road to Pelsing with its immense gate could be seen cutting through northern hills & the city wall, Southwest the (Hari River) greed its quiet waters to the sea. Several Japanese shrines or piles have been erected with pine forest by Maungan for these some Japanese women were worshiping. Religion among the practical Japanese seems to have been relegated to the grey as it has in our civilization. As one enters the devotees rang a gong as well as they entered to announce their presence to the gods!! We descended the hill & visited the Commercial Museum near Chinfort. A large crowd of Koreans were spectators here. The museum had Japanese affair with Jap girls go guards

Mr. Curtis the American consul told me that the American residents here outnumber the Europeans. There are close 500 Am. Europeans, but before Japanese occupation there were 1500. The Japs are seen in great numbers everywhere in government of shops but few are in the city. I have seen groups of Japanese children clad in gray/summer attire with their pink/rainbow umbrellas, or parents are consider them, wandering the streets, merry & heedless.

in all the halls. Various grains, from producing silk worms, cloth, leather oils in my 'Jacquer, melting' words, fife, in alcohol, shell fish, nets, etc were an exhibition labelled in Chinese characters & exhibited in neat glass cases. I saw many Korean women here, many in pale green dresses & pink waistcoats & a few in grass green robes but most were in white. In physiognomy they are very Chinese. A group of Korean women & children in holiday dress makes as gay a bit of color as the Burmese women. The curfew which formerly rang at 9 P.M., & allowed women free use of the streets of the men confinement at home has not been in use for 25 yrs. is really a forgotten custom.

After tiffin I visited some of the fur shops with the guide. These were small & poor com- pared to Peking or Shanghai. They make no fur garments here only for collar & cuffs. I saw a few bundles of gray squirrel, other & marten & black horse cat, & a few striped wild cat poles. In opera shops I found the leopard, a long haired race but the dealers wanted 60 yen each. The Tiger skins I saw were rich orange in color & short haired being distinctly inferior to the great Manchurian skins. For these they wanted 400 to 500 yen where in Peking the largest skins were only 200, max. I cleared almost 3 p.m. & took a walk to photo natives for the Koreans of all ages would not submit so I bought photo & natives from Jap dealer. The Jap children wanted to be photographed & cheered me in great glee & familiarity.

which action shows one of the great differences in the 2 peoples 29 Last night Sin the Korean guide took me to a Japanese restaurant where we had sandwiches + saki to drink. The saki was brown but colorless like water skin flavor like the gew gching wher I have no doubt is also nice wine or gin. Some 2 Japanese ladies, at dinner at the drum had they phoned Peter something, the guide who from Japanere told me these 2 men presently appeared much as they saw not of affair could be considered in our own blessed country. These Jap women were immensely excited + vivacious as an any The morning was cloudy windsy with rain storms drety over the landscape. We went at 10 cup whatever to th

The Korean Women are as alike as peas in a pod which is evidence of a race kept pure from intermixture for centuries (The Hermit Nation) They all have narrow slant eyes like Chinese, pale complexions, short broad noses. In the men distinction above others chin & moustache growth which is nearly discouraged & moustache Distinction, either 9 hairs on the left & 16n the right [illegible]

The Korean apple is fine flavor horticultural garden some six miles at gloomy by way of train car & then by Rickshaw thru the fields. On the way Deva was surprised losed Japs & Korean men give their seats to women when the car was crowded, On the way 2 officers loaded the car with 2 prisoners Mixed together. One of the officers was a jap other Korean. The same sort of thing occurs everywhere in any Seoul every place where 2 are always stationed together, one a jap other a Korean. The Koreans are said however to detect the Japs. At the horticultural station a jap attendant showed no over stock of apples Office quality & trees loaded by fruits. There were

In the Closer Hotel in April we first display of miniature champaurthi bloom. The bark stalks is allowed to bear only one blossom which is thus enabled to attain large size, often 6 inches in diameter. Many cherry trees seen at the Bot in parts which bloom in April sign reveal a Japanese appearance then.

Pear hedges trained as long vine like rails & loaded by large tunnel pairs, Pear trees were also trained as basket like towers, etc. Peach trees were still in leaf. Groups on trellis were seen. Many beds of mulberry trees grew in the gardens & at one place saw under barreting Taro posts. Our Durval out one met many The Korean cabbage was abundant in a single crop burning a high withers that burns like a Durham drill. No roses are seen in Seoul but outside a few carrying jams may be met. The rice crop was just being harvested. Only one cup is raised. It yields large fryings of the Pombui delta & the Korean cabbage. One field of cotton has been

The famous Marble Pagoda was visited at 3 P.M., but the day was cold + bitter by advancing wind + overcast sky. The Pagoda was evidently constructed from the marble is weathered + blackened as the carved Buddhas are at 4 Dhahar date with an American Dentist Schriefly At the Severance Hospital near the R.P. Slabon. He has devoted himself to operating on Teeth & their diseases among the Koreans. Here I met Dr. Mills a Bacteriologist from Michigan University. He has taken up Botany as a hobby + collected many plants in Korea which are particulary marred by Kew experts. He is translating

Ernest Wilson of the Arnold (Harvard) Arboretum is now in Korea collecting plants on an island near Japan. His wife and daughter were at the chosen hotel awaiting his return.

Oriented the term 'Waldier'. Identified all the plants mentioned there. He has done a great deal of compiling of data already but is not a professional botanist. Has not yet published any of his results. Wieden's the jap change in Korean names & the old names were mere translation of pronunciation, The Chinese characters for the places remaining unchanged. Some name like Korea (Chosen) + Seoul (Keijyo) new older names had priority over our present day names. The Gov. came R.S. Curtilce got [illegible] dinner. When Greet some 6 married couples. [illegible]

worn white clothes. In places the valley narrowed away pine clad & grass grown hills. At some villages fields of mulberry bushes were seen, sericulture being one of the Korean Industries. Open fields of tarow leaned Taro greeted no dirt, rice was practically the only crop. After tiffin I reached rice fields long since harvested where Koreans were plowing with an ox yoked to a spade shaped plow like the furrow number 2 California; At 4 P. M. I reached Yuseon station where rough cliffs & high peaks bordered the RR. There were pine clad & looked like cover for goat & deer.

Afternoon Mr. Marriss aportman known Korea well the Yaler River. He has shot the largest bear from here I was weighed by him & found to be 550 lbs! "Awarded" and I should say. The best that deer with it's squad for never tiger Marris Underwood & other hunters here use the .301 Winchester automatic for bear & deer speaks well of this rifle. (30) The Husson train pulled out of Seoul at 8:30 A.M. A bright dry day favored us. The road lay down thru valley filled with fields of ripe rice which the Koreans were harvesting with hand-cycles both sexes working in their volun

The stateroom was larger than the berth much wider than usual & very comfortable. There were only some dozen 1st class passengers, all Japs except me. In the morning we reached the inland sea & steamed up to Shimonoseki quay at 7:30. The passengers leaving the steamer were many but all 2nd & 3rd class Japs, only about 20 being Koreans (all men). Some of the Japanese were met by their wives but they smiled bowed profusely but they were no embraces or kisses such as we engage in, usually.

These high ragged hills Continued down to Fusan but darkness set in before we reached the port. The fine large steamer lay at the dock into which the train ran making the transfer very convenient. Surge numbers of 2nd & 3rd class Jap. passengers took Passage. The women all had a child clung rather tight or shoulders & some led another larger offspring. None of these babies ever seemed to cry or be discontented, in which they resemble their cheerful parents. [31] The trip across the channel was pleasant & smooth. A full moon & clear sky made the night passage bright

Chinaman and others persimmons The collecting this week yields to demanded Chink + Korea is very cheery refreshing but I found a discern that both the Arbys mammals have been exterminated in the forest

The Yokohama War does not close Shuminosokai until 9:30 so I took a walk about town. The fruit stalls were agay with red apples, great yellow grapefruits, the size of musk melons, red grapes, pineapples & bananas. Very large chestnuts were also displayed similarly in size anywhere I have seen elsewhere. Saw no foreigners in the narrow streets. Great numbers of sailboats were moved about the waterfront. The country is hilly, very hilly, richly clad by forests or some other trees & bushes. The few counties are just harvesting their rice crop by hand with both foot machinery. I saw

By steamer gets no inbiling. The population is heavy, the valleys being mimewant & the rice crop correspondingly heavy. The lower hillsides are in places furnished with pine terraces peeping out of Japan a W.C. has no sex

here many mountain girls with red undercoat shirt & black jackets, an unusual dress from the spray black Kinnaird green which many Pickaninny glimpses of the island sea opera mat internals. The whole country has a peculiar association of the pine clad Cumberland Hill set in semi-tropical rice fields & quaint villages. The R.R. journey along the Island sea is simple beautiful & interesting than by sea. The R.R. after leaving the beach, in place the ocean waves lapping the embankment. Seeps tolets & quaint fishing village are seen of which the source

I have seen no birds from the P.R. except a few across. There is not even a house Sparrow about any of the villages. The value of birds to agriculture is greatly overestimated as here is an example of a highly successful agricultural country with out birds, all farming been killed years ago.

From Omae Station which me passed 28th month of the year was devoted to small very lovely gardens here orange trees bearing green oranges were seen fighter, I saw pig with fruits & golden persimmons or Drafts this This street is one of the finest garden spots Ohm Dear in Japan. Japan Is the green, freshest looking country as it showed to more than a bell in sights, China Could be the same if the people had only the force as they are wonderful at agreements, Japanese on 2nd train all let Empor ford the only kind served all it's quit different from the

Many Schools-Houses were opened in the South in 1862, especially in the schools also with small boys. The teachers were often women. This sort of separation takes place only among people who regard women as inferior. Among them there is more than in my country where the men are not regarded as having the highest education.

November 127 Dawnbeck 7 am + Discovered myself travel Turn Rice fields with an Occasional tea garden + fruit Clad hills. From Tensay - Nigama River Kuyishun until its main was visible in a clear story, The river is a wide gravel mud flan but very shallow. Know it a clean part of country with the snow covering. Flora Nympis is visible. Further on near Elizabontown we arrived 8:45 vertical farming was in practice The 1st I had seen in Japan In gardens composed over these farms which run well to the tops of mountain with hills. On this less steep with terraces were inhabitants.

features in the landscape. Nearby Porter on the highest point of the PR 1489 feet the clouds began to gather At that only the summit [illegible] was clear. Here I saw rows of orange maize ears [illegible] Corn seen in Japan. This is the first been seen anywhere else. [illegible] It grows the only crop. Cryptomeria Trees with the dark brown [illegible]

At Kaatbara we shivled the new Beech for several miles. This place had many groves of many orange trees, beautig green fruit. We seen some 7 feet tall At 9:30 we obtained our best view of Hingiyan from Dramaln Station from which the great volcanic ridge majestically jutting any hills at the foreground. There was only a light stratum of clouds, gradually down the volcano which were otherwise clear. Hartin in near Hunnington station fields of Mulberry trees, needly tops other leaves and coniferous

I found the Grand Hotel full of guests but finally got a room at 7 P.M. there. Wov had written me letters from Hovdon in his quaint English about the chance of going to America with Hartman. Miss Hedger I learned at Coobs had left Yokohama last spring for her home in Ohio. Miss Mary could not locate from any source I knew B. The Hongkong Shanghai Bank took any Peking currency at 1.35 to the yen which was decidedly better than the 1:10 of Chosen Banks.

Seen him as roadside prospect at Gerns. Gerns in the same plunged down hill always a rocky rill stream At one place large cotton mills had been erected. Wear a steep hillside, Nervous nature birds, cats, spies etc. still beel there own - at 6:00 P.M. we reached Goshima station. 2) The morning dawned rainy + bad weather prevailed all day. I visited the photograph across from the hotel & he showed me some fine colored slides of Japan which I bought 28, at Yagen each or 25 cents gold. Later I visited other photographs for slides & at T. Enami I found beautifully colored ones & 300 to pick from. Here I selected 55 very artistic one,

Ralph Turner the reporter in the Japan advertiser who came over with me 18 months ago on the Tokyo Called for an interview.

which also sold at only 1/4 yen each. This man is the most artistic + best slide maker in Japan I have met. He sends many slides to us. In Europe he told me he will color any slide at the price you send him. (3) The weather cleared today + bright sunshine prevailed. I tried to find more lantern slide makers but failed, after I found our photographer who makes them to order from his negatives. After dinner I took a rickshaw to Theater Street which is half an hour away across the large canal. I was surprised to find Theater Street pushed with Japs wandering up + down the shops fruit stands open. Great flags bearing Jap words were displayed on poles overhanging the street. This part of Yokohama is thronged by people at night while Water Street + Main Street near the hotel are dark + deserted.

At dinner we had a rare dish roast wild boar which was quite good but lacked my pork taste. Rather like venison in flavor. Terrapin stewed was another delicacy but I presume this was made of a native turtle and not the rare U.S.A reptile.

4 Another all day steady rain took possession of the country today making sight seeing quite out of the question. The meals at the hotel are fine, we have such delicacies as Trappist cheese, a soft rich sort like gorgonzola but without green streaks. It is shade away by the Trappist works. Boiled lobsters, prawns, raw oysters, artichokes, etc! help on the menu. The rooms are however without baths, closets, or running water (except a few large apartments on the main floor). The Chosen hotel at Seal is for superior in arrangement. Beds are new (2 years old). The ricksha boys here all wear a oval dish shaped helmet with their name marked on it in number arrows. Nearly all of them speak some English which speaks well for their enterprise.

Crop in the common palbuddot Reimons. These Games were American base ball chiefly at the flying story aeroplanes operated by 2 stem propeller, roundup by a rubber bands tossed into the air, to sail neither they wishes ; Japanese children are a gay lot & thoroughly imbued by the spirit of games of play just as European children are. The similarity of these young Japs to Europeans children is closer than any many adults when a certain dignified bearing & a set ceremonial attitude makes the Japanese every different appearing from Europeans.

5) A perfect day dawned brightly with a breezing breeze With a stroll on the bluff where most of the Europeans reside. A common ornamental plant there was known due to me. It is a shrublike with a central rosecone of small white flowers. The foliage is the attractive feature (leaves being large paleantly incised appears a very dark green glossy color. The bud looks like the alderan Heide Club which is an umbelifer and doubt near relative. In the afternoon I took the electric RR to Tobeysport visited Hibbing Park To see the Chrysanthemums but then were a disappointment. Much of the park is a lawn + used as a playground for children from 4 to 6 years old. They were chiefly

mayed his suspended transparences at the wall. Then wen 4 shocks covering 1½ hours (10:30 to 12: A.M. The storm, Tanya ran aground on mouth of Yokohama harbor & it has been found quite impossible to floater her so her congris being taker out. She is stuck in sand and damage is anticipated. This was (Sully) Smith's last voyage his retirement being affected on reaching Yokohama, 2 hours away due to a recent government regulation prohibiting foreign officers on Japan boats

Strike snaps of women & children in the park & these natives resently laughed when caught & were wonderfully good natured compared to tribes people or even Europeans who are often trauty under similar circumstances. Opposite the Imperial hotel I visited Obama, a colored slide maker & purchased a few slides. His stock was low but he said he had several hundred negatives from which slides were made. He has dent many hundreds to America. He said but his work is not equal to Enson's of Yokohama but the price is the same. While doing so at 11:30 A.M. a earth quake shock shook the house &

I discovered today the chief peculiarity of Yokohama's street or home nomenclature. The foreign section about the Grand Hotel is called Yamma chita-cho & comprises some 25 to 30 streets. Each building square in this large section is numbered without consideration of the streets & without duplication running from 1 to 277. An address usually given No. 78 Yokohama is thus sufficient the street is appended usually. The Pleaft section of foreign home, is numbered similarly but distinct

6) This morning a clear day gave a fine view of Mt. Fuji, which has a new lot of snow splending half way down its slopes as due to the recent storm of Sunday. In my garden I saw a beautiful display of immense chrysanthemum in bloom with Fuji's brown peak almeria in the far distance. 7) The Tenyo Maru still remains stuck in the mud at Smatoza Point, 12 miles below Yokohama. Another fine clear bracing day made sight seeing a pleasure & I took a walk along the bluff down to Mississippi Bay. There are Japanese homes & Nice fields all the way after the European houses on the bluff are passed.

Yesterday I called at the American Consulate & found the Consul General out. The vice Consul, Hitchcock would not endorse any check for $200.00 on Natl. Metropolitan Bank. After I showed him T.R. letter I recommendation. It is considered O.K. here but it is against the Office rules. Today I called on the Manager of the International Banking Corporation & he also refused to cash any check unless endorsed by a local resident known to him. After I flashed T.R. letter a hint.

This afternoon I had a visit to Mr. Francis Custer's Office at 40 Yamacluta chs Yokohama, His brother who is recently deceased collected natural history specimens by purchased from natives but failed to sell all of them at the time of his death, He at one time sold a lot of mammal from Hainam Island collected thereby a Japanese. The collection left consisted of several hundred pairs of snakes, lizards, turtles, corals, sea urchins, crust acea in principal + cases, 7 bird skins. These Custer is anxious to sell for the benefit of the widow who is in need of money. Custer knew of no local sportsmen who have hunted big game in Korea or Japan

as a material end. Their belief for religion is chiefly ancestor worship + patriotism, Hop scotch is a common game with little jap girls everywhere in the city. You see them lined up in rows playing. I believe the game is of Japanese origin? There is no holiday or day of rest in Japan comparable to our Sabbath nor is there any in China. No such institution is needed + often it is a decided inconvenience

9) A clear day again with Hiei jiyuus now sunny showing thru the light haze above Yokohama. The cheap chrysanthemums displayed here in private gardens are wonderful in variety size. There are all colors & shapes of petals as well as some with centers of yellow disk flowers like a daisy. I have noticed the total absence aggravates them Japan but I discovered only yesterday the reason in a book on Japan. The Japs revere their dead, judging as a funeral feast at the time of birth food in great variety. They have no belief in a future existence or do the fear we last accept death

which is filled at the lobby q which is a center of foreign life here. There are quite a number of Russians in the Grand & most of them have French appearance & French manners. One man I have seen frequently in the dining room dining with a woman & small child & he greets this woman ceremoniously by kissing her hand when she arrives.

10 Last night & toots in electric tram + was dined with Turner, King of the Japan Advertiser & 2 other Americans, an engineer & a business man. At the They live in a Japanese home of small size & have Japanese servants to do the household work. These men libs, the Japanese & have acquired, a movable vocabulary in a few months of Japanese but are not able to get beyond this point without much study. At the Advertiser, Mr. & met the Editor, J. Leisher an American who has lived in China & Japan for a score of years. We visited the Imperial hotel but found only some 15 or 20 guests, the place presenting much life as the Grand Hotel of Yokohama

after hundred yards a fine view of Mississippi Bay is seen with its picturesque pine slade bluffs of yellow clay at the southern extremity. At this place the pretty photos of shell gatherings of fishermen have been taken & colored slides & prints made for sale. Bordering the flat land bay or level land are clustered Japanese houses in dense village formation. The race track is made around a Deep Hole, the center dipping down like an amphitheater. Among the bowels in this center a golf course has been made and

11 The morning we had a clear sky & a bracing north wind so I took along stroll to the race course west of the Bluff. A magnificent view of Hengyian was greeted me from the high ground on which the course is laid. The mountain formed up clearly being visible down to its very base showing well the even & regular slope from summit to base. A more regular & symmetrical mountain is not to be found anywhere else on the earth! The snow of yesterday extended for more than one mile, white field lying at the base at only 2050 feet altitude I should judge. The whole upper half is now a white sheet of snow which will remain I suppose until Spring. Beyond the racecourse

is engaged in newspaper literary work on fiction & Japanese subjects. His wife has a fine voice & was at one time an opera singer at the Metropolitan Opera House N.Y. The family are vegetarians & total abstainers but they gave me meat to eat. They have lived here at least 6 years & speak Japanese. They have little confidence in the honesty or friendship of the Japs & assert that most of them are really stupid. The Japanese woman they say is charming but has had all independence crushed out of her by her education & her husband who is sulky & insulting to her at all times.

today being Sunday it was filled by Foreign players with only four or two J.P. players. The tree course is a mild long but quite uneven have a very perceptible dip at the south end which from the outlet of the interior hollow center. 12 Last night I dined with Mr. Lawrence Mott & his wife at their home on the Bluff. Mr. Mott is a Harvard man of about 1904 or less. He has hunted Norose + Caribou in Salvador + New Brunswick, Bag profs, and also in North Japan at the North tip of Honsho Island in Japan proper. Here's trapped mink, polecat, flying squirrel & shot pheasant + other birds. At present he

The Building of the American Embassy at Tobago is a shabby frame affair. The entrance is a narrow outward bare hole with white painted doors opening into a small room for visitors with a few chairs + no decorations like a bar room in appearance. The Main Office of the Ambassador is little better, + an equal disgrace to the U.S.A.

At 10 A.M. I visited the Tengu which had reached port yesterday. I found my trunks from Shanghai on board O.K. My roommate is now a Standard Oil youth from Chungking, Upper Yangtze Mr. Cruths invited me to lunch & in the evening he took dinner with Walters + I at the hotel. He also told us of the boiling which the Japs endure in their bath which raises their body temperature to 105° + kills by heat all such germs as gonorrhea + other some sorts of fevers. They habitually take boiling hot baths & can stand water much hotter than we can. He also told us that the way to cure Malaria was by doses of quinine every two hours until 60 grams were taken. I always drink the tablets down with hot water or the effect will not be beneficial. He is from Santa Barbara, Cal., in which place he went to school.

Variety in size from diminutive, hairy like nuts To great spreading One Trichosaurus. Colors ranged from white, yellow, red, & plumcolor No blues were seen. Some of the largest plants spread at 6 feet x bare some trunked so blossomy on a great dome shaped. At the Imperial where I launched I met Cole The Standard Oil who is a director in N.Y. but formerly lived out in Yoboham for the Co. He said he had witnessed Cormorant fishing at Gifer at night by burning torch flames.

Being quite broke I took the ellitude for Tilsleys this morning Called on Nolan Morrison new Embassador to Japan. His secretary Mrs. Spencer met me + was very cordial. He is an acquaintance of Percy Moderas, Gov. Harrison & other Philadelphia Sportsmen from which town he comes. The Minister Mr. Norris, finally endorsed a check for $200.00 after looking over T. Rio Letter but was not at all pleased about it + wanted to know whether a smaller amount would not do as if he were actually going to be defrauded out of the money. Passing Hilbilly Park I saw the Chrysanthemum show t went in & looked them over. The flowers were arranged in long rows under covered sheds in stalls. There was great

themselves are located. Here in one shop I ordered 4 Knicions of cotton good from patterns which I chose for 9 yen each. I also bought 4 pairs of tabis or bifurcated socks for use in wearing sandals, of which I also bought 4 pair for children. The tabis are only 36 sen pair & the sandals 50 sen.

13 After dinner we had dance at the hotel the music furnished by a string orchestra of Dutchmen from a Dutch ship recently arrived from Java. These Dutch men mentioned the sad plight of Holland as a neutral & the carcity of food & their help lessness. 14 Visits his wife (with tiffin) at the hotel with me. He has written several books of picture + travel. One of these I bought, "The Rubs & Sights" which is on sale at the hotel for readers support. It is written in the vernacular by an American former to carry me through larger cities of the orient, Hongkong, Shanghai, Tokyo, etc. In the afternoon I went shopping Theater Street for where the Japanese stores of the Japanese

Ching-king. He speaks the Hankow dialect & mandarin. Several Americans from the Philippines are aboard, 2 tea drayers from Formosa & Siamese prince.

115 The Tengu Maru left the docks promptly at 3 P.M. We had a noisy departure. The docks was crowded with Japs & European bidding farewell to passengers as the great liner cast off. Many of the Japanese shouted lustily & gave cheers for their friends. We cast anchor along side the largest battleship in the Jap Navy which is anchored in the bay & after a short examination of steerage furniture we steamed down the bay in the gloom & passed through the heads at darkness into the sea. The 12 cabin passengers are 160, 100 quid are Japs. As an amusement I have W.A. Dow an Oakland Calif. Man who has been Standard Oil salesman at Honolulu & also as for my youngest 07

(Other) passengers are Mott & Griff(in) Chairmen of committees + leaders generally. Mott is a gray-haired child (N.Y.) but really a tenderger in Honolulu(Taiwan) + Griff is a N.Y. Shoe salesman with the manners & airs of a sport pigeon but a good fellow when his little bluff is Called. Another voyager is Lauty who has the mop of Ireland on his face + an overfed appearance is an American dentist 99 years resident in the sands of Alexandria but now returns to the U.S.A. for residence.

16 The sea was moderate with a misty rain most of the day but the air feels warmer than at Yokohama. The steamer has done some pitching & a few people are sea-sick wildly. 17 The weather was overcast with misty rain at intervals & a fair sized swell running. One of the passengers of interest to me is Mr. H. Williams, an engineer & expert who has traveled much in Japan & some in Korea, where he visited the Diamond Mtns., which he says are very rough & forested & inhabited by bear, tigers & deer. He knows the minas Gerais Country of Brazil, much of which he says is a desert.

Dr. Crofts. An American living Calif. Tom Guma (an aviator who is returning from Canton after two years residence with his wife, also a Chinese woman born in America) is one of the popular members of the ship's crew. April.

18 Sunday was passed quietly without dancing or Religious Service. We have seen no islands or ships & very little sea life, only a few Blacks posted abreast some flying fish. This boat carries more short story tellers than I have ever met before. Capt. Wilson of the Canton Centuries a slave has A perpetual steam boat & Twenty are second. Delight the airings of Charlie Chaplin is a source of stories quite as numerous. 19 Monday the Passengers met & elected a Sport & entertainment committee. Met & Gruff both drew the honors & drinks awarded place amid the sports by

At the finish I came away with my Japanese slides but the lantern was so hot that the slides would crack if held more than a minute so I could say very little about any of them.

20) The weather is growing warmer & calmer as we now travelling S. West South - east. The sports committee toiled heavily. One your member, is [illegible] & Japanese of N.Y., a graduate of Harvard 1911! 21) Sports took up the whole day on deck & a circuets show the evening. Weather Calm. 21) Today we had our second Wednesday crossing the 180th Meridian where aday is gained or lost! This day I lost 1½ years ago when I regained it and again square with the Calendar. We had more sports in the day or deck & a night a Vandeille show of sorts.

Coble Place, There were men were stopped To the moist groove Shot cotton drawers leaving the legs bare. They are good expect wrestlers but not of the enormous size of professional Jap wrestlers. They caught holds by arms with leaning forward position then tried to throw their opponent out of the ring or else on his back in the ring either Fall spelling victory for them. In the morning and bad professional contests the action is slow the wrestlers staying motionless for 15 or 20 minutes at one time.

22) The weather today was so warm that neither clothing is quite [illegible]. Where bouts again in the Tropics. Have been fighting a mild material fever daily but with no great change or success. The deck sports continued all day & at night we had a wild & exciting Cabaret concert on the upper deck. After the supper room, dances, drinks at small tables, songs, special dances & an auction of the pool on the ship's run. Everyone was jolly & time passed quickly. 23) At 8:30 P.M. the wrestling contest between members of the crew

Going ashore I met Albert Waterhouse who travelled to Singapore with us in 1916. The view from the harbour showed a green mountainous island with clouds hanging in the recesses of the higher volcanoes, above Honolulū. On the plain westward were pearl banks with fields of light green sugar cane could be detected. Eastward beyond Waikiki, Diamond Head an old volcano aster stood sentinel + sloped steeply into the sea.

In the morning the sword fencing contest between J.P. took place. The antagonists were protected by a wide mask Padded head & collar, made of burlap, which or stop the head & side the body was the normal naked attack. The victor always uttering a deep groan or crow of victory & the victim a lesser groan or sign of defeat. 24 Saturday we reached the outer bay of Honolulu at 7 P.M., & dropped sail for while the doctor & pass Port inspection took place which was not finished until reaching the dock at 10:30 A.M.

bathrooms of both suites in the motel playing rather sand, Some experts were far out in the breeches riding surf boards on which they stood erect. The water was pleasantly warm, and show enjoy a retreat a few here, Dunning daily, At 8 P.M. we dried at Mr. Pinkham's house of then motored to the Seaside hotel to watch about a dance for a few minutes, At 9:30 we returned to the Ast. Young Hotel & attended the roof garden dance until 12 P.M. Mr. Harlow of the Hawaiian Promotion Soc.

Mrs. E. M. Mulder (Countess) Cooks us in town to call on her uncle, Mr. Pritham of the Hawaiian Islands. We first did some shopping + I bought a few Harvard furniture slides at Jeffries near the Alex, Young Hotel. We left Tippin, Mona, Nao, Mulder, Samoa + I at the Aljoning Hotel + then drove to Dr. Cuperious house where Mr. Pritham resides, He lives resting on the verandah. He is a small old man, 965 years but sheen luminous + honest fighter. It took us out to the Moana hoteler with bi beach where we went in Sea bathing. There were many

The harbor entrances is very narrow of the room wide so small that the Terry had to be backed around by two. Surger steamers would have much difficulty here. The Columbia had entered during the day & lay along picked up. We passed out passed Diamond Head into a smooth sea with in the water ruffled by a light breeze. At the Hotel we had aquacates for salad & some peelkin baked fish. Fried bread fruit was on the menu but I failed to get any, which was have never tasted this fruit.

The dancers were a gay lot of American girls, [illegible] and no Hawaiian or Cubanians were seen at the it is a public resort many army officers in white [illegible] uniforms were among the dancers but no alcohol can be served these soldiers, 10,000 of whom are stationed here permanently. The weather was warm with frequent short misty showers during the day. At dark mosquitoes attack our faces, [illegible]s Copper said they were not the usual sort but quite harmless although decidedly. 25 The [illegible] departed at 9 A.M. for S.P.

Weather calendar but Coales. granting

26 The weather continued balmy & the sea smooth. The passengers, seem remained quite inactive apparently he still recovering from horrible exertions. 27 A fancy dress ball left us / occurred of the night. We were a gay party & represented kuba girls, school girls, Koreans, Japs, Chinese wandering sailors soldiers, clowns, parrots etc. We assembled ed before dinner & the disguise was in many difficult to detect. Before the dance we had 2 flashlight photos taken. 28 Another perfect day.

Ions then Alex proceeded to the docks at 10 Am. The custom house baggage in put postal until 18. Me, & then I went up know with Griffen to the Palace Hotel took a room: after lunch I went with Seligman & Boston (Hartmann Bros.) to the Columbia Theater & witnessed & enjoyed greatly the musical comedy Miss Springtime.

29 Thanksgiving. The turkey dinner was served with decorations, paper streamers, paper balloons etc. 30 The last night out a red cross auction took place in the Saloon where cavalry dancing was interpersed. On Wednesday May 1, Glasgow's Romanian Red Cross commission sold for $200.00 by tickets. There were absurd dances. Futile, gale, trumpet & 45 WO. [illegible] was melted. Dec 1 We steamed to the Golden Gate at 7 AM. An anchor was destroyed for quarantine inspected

An Operation Jawhrl, removed her tonsils. A month previously she had taken Scarlet fever & this later was followed by severe Tonsillitis. We took the Sausalito ferry for Saginitas & then the RR to Saginita but had an exchange of cars to make. The journey taking from S.F. 1 1/2 hours. Enroute we passed Maillard's place where I had dined in 1901. Fifteen years ago Mr. Merriam met us in his car at Saginitas & took us up the winding road to his home on a side, hill amid the redwoods & oaks. The station

2) Sunday was quiet. Jansson of N.Y. + D with a long stroll up market street. 3) I visited Berkeley + called on Harvey Hall, who Gave me a few letters which I had asked him to hold for me, at the Faculty Club. I met Dr. S.K. Gilbert + a geologist who has spent 2 years in Chinese travel. Harvey took me home for dinner where I saw Carlotta + the baby Martha soon 20 months old & just able to walk. 4) This morning I met Gertrude at the Ferry Building by appointment. Shewo returning from the Alameda sanitarium after

etc. There are also large Verandas with beds on them. There is running water & closets of every convenience & a small garage. Mr. Merriam by his servants as none will remain in so lonely a place. He does all his own wood chopping & Mrs. M., her housework & cooking. I returned to S.F. on the 5 P.M., train as Bertrande was weak & feared from her operation for tonsils.

If Sageritas is a lonely little place with one street, a general sort a schoolhouse and a post office as large as a fireman's box. Only one farm house is at the station. Mr. Merrians house is well situated in a natural forest of a variety of trees. There has been woodland- gardening about the house and cutting out of forest trees except enough to give space for the house. The house is of redwood with a baner-like living room with a large fire place, Welcome where in the back with bed rooms opening out on it. There is a small office in the back of the house with a fire proof vault in it for manuscripts.

regarding financing it. There is a fine Sheep group with San Jacinto background. A Den Lion group, Sea Steller's Seal group, Harbor Seal, a Sea Elephant group in prep a very artisti Sunset is the background for a San Joaquin goose group. Outside the building in Ched they have a Sefpho ton whale skeleton 87 feet long the longest one on exhibition anywhere. D'uni showed me aset of slides of Dalapagos photos, but many then were from negative.

5 This afternoon visited the Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park but found Everman away, Paul Train who is now chief Taxidermist was there and I was shown over the place. The building is only one year old his own Ideal one for exhibition. It has only top light light & the groups are large wall affairs with painted background only a direct front view is possible of them. The backgrounds are by Carvin + are all California scenes as are the mammal birds. They have a San Joaquin Elk group + Mr. Everman is saving a space for a Roosevelt Elk group next to it. + asked me to speak to Col. Roosevelt

6) Mrs. Evermann took me out to lunch after stantly me over the academy. Afterward I visited Harvey Wall in his herbarium, where I found him pouring over rubber culture on the U.S.A. He is trying to discover a plant which will grow in the U.S. Produce rubber. The joke is the only one Brownlites for. In case war an rubber supply would be stopped in ocean transport was blocked. Drove dinner with the Grimald family. The 3 kids are 3 prize stage alums Willard 10, Molly 9, Stewart 8. Their parents have given them freedom if they are natural in manner, unafraid & filled by with press & jokes.

Pavley told me of an African [illegible] who lives in Oakland. Mr. Simpson who will donate his collection of african heads to the Museum as he can take them from London. Mr. Thompson, the Naval Surgeon, is curator of reptiles. The assistant curator of Reptiles was present. He exhibited a live black rattler which was very tame & possessed well formed fangs. On the ferry Jone LKE Baker of the Tengyo. He is a U.S. Public Ct. Expert who has [illegible] been stationed at Singapore. He is now on his way to the U.Y. Office

7 This morning I visited Rawley at the Oakland Public Museum at Oakland. The place is in an old wooden building in a park on the shore of Lake Merritt. I found Rawley in the attic with an Examiner reporter + Mr. Hubbard an Oakland Sportsman + part of father to the institution. He is a relative of Mrs. Bell's whom was at Hubbard. The Museum has large exhibits but is an old house with small rooms + not suitable for a display place. They have a new building planned in the park. The funds are provided by the city. Public lectures in schools are given by a woman whom I met & cases of birds are used in this connection.

We finally went to a chop suey restaurant where she danced one step with us & at chop suey. She is no more Chinese in manners than I am. She is a table maid in the St. Francis's Hotel. On the way back we passed thru the Barbary coast, reached the hotel at 2 P.M., at which time all resort must close.

At 8 P.M., Devent to China Town with a Police Sargent, Kelley + with Knuth + Jausseen, + Myers Ellurian + Parley a S.T. business house. Chinatown was vastly different from a town in China for its streets were wide, clean + the underground rooms were deserted, no Opium Shopters or Fan tan players being extant. The sargent showed us many secret doors closets etc. He introduced us to Rosay a Chinese girl of 18 who sang the latest American songs & Fan Chuiers over but she Yorkulittle Chinese & She had never seen China. She was a good fellow + as free + happy with us as could be,

8 Gertrude & Mr Merriman. Left the 5 P.M., train for Washington via S.P., In the evening dined to a dancing parlor with Wally, who arrived yesterday with Cyle from Japan. 9 Sunday night Harvey Hall gave a dinner to Miss Alexander, Miss Kellogg. 29 Miss Alexander coming & Mr. Jepson, Louise Kellogg has become white haired & older in appearance, Miss Alexander is also white haired but otherwise as before. These two old friends are farming near Swiss on the Sacramento River where their farm is holly serendibit Dept buy by a dray. They raise pigs, durham cattle, chickens & beans.

good, the attitude, being very striking but the style is rough or aggressive, the body being only sketched. Later we visited a marine painter Harrison, a blond giant who has a studio in an attic with a few old chairs & a small stove to keep it warm. He is doing a background of the Prinkiloff Isles for a funeral group for the Academy of Sciences,

10 Grinnell took me home to dinner + I again saw trio 3 kids who are charmingly frank & humorous. Grinnell Told me that my old, friend Kennedy is still at the Civil Kills, Panama Parts, where I saw him 16 years ago. 11 I visited the Sutro Baths with a friend & swam in the Tanks, 12 Odd some people shopping in their town I visited 1st Columbia Theater in the evening. 13 Pearl Fair took me To Spanish restaurant for lunch. Afterward we went to an art store & looked over a lot of bronzes Sculptures painted by local artist Putnam, who is now recently gone partially insane. His works is

about A.W. Anthony who in order to pay for a trip in Lower Calif. just then abold scheme which however failed as it surely Anthony invited Mrs & Mrs. Thurbey to accompany him but told them that he wanted to invited Mrs. Brandages as guest & Thurbey should help pay for them. He then explained to the Brandages that the Thurbers were going as his guests they should help pay for them, (He? ) 6 time on the trip keeping the 2 parties separated so they would not learn his duplicity.

14 Dr. Evermann took lunch with me at the Palace today, later I dined at Tait's with Mrs. Muddler & a friend & here met two men from China whom I had known there 15 Harry Swarth took me to his house for dinner with his wife & 6 year old son George. The wife is much like Mrs. Grimfield, but the boy is a chubby, little blond, quiet disposition, Mr. Playful & confiding on sight. Swarth told me his position as assistant director at Los Angeles in the Museum, was simply that of guiding distinguished visitors about. He also told an amusing story

Staff have grown up + departed. Dr. Gilbert Don + his 2 daughters are married & Mrs. Gilbert is dead so Dr. Gilbert has now no home but lives with the an old friend. Heath has a son who has just entered the University. Starks has a daughter 17. I dined with Seal & his wife who have just come here from Harvard C.M.S. Starks took me home for dinner & later Albarns came & took me in his car to his home on the campus where I spent the night. Albarns is married to a 1901 Stanford girl who has a charming little daughter 7 years old who is usually wreathed in smiles like her Papa.

16 Spent a Sunday at the theaters in S.F. 17 I discovered a lantern slide expert, Rangee or Dreamy that market. He has several thousand colored slides in stock from all parts of the world & I purchased slides of India, Margeeling, Bermuda, & China from him. 18 At 9 Am. I took the train for Stanford University. The morning was foggy so I did not see much of the landscape. I had not been at Stanford for 9 years. At the Palo Alto station I found a trolley car line to the campus which was built since my time. I found all the Zoology faculty of the old days still in office, Dr. Gilbert Price, Snyder Heath, Starks, Hustler now in the East. The families of many & the

Given talk with slides at the Calif. Academy Meeting of Mechanics Institute.

(19) I returned to S.F. in the fog at 9:13 A.M., train. At the station. Here I met Will Price, also on his way to the city. He is going into Y.M.C.A work in France. The Red Cross would not take him owing to his high blood pressure due to nephritis or kidney trouble. He is however in a ruddy happy state of health but is not allowed to eat meat or drink coffee. With Price was Miss H[ei]r[pel], a Stanford 1913 Biology major who has recently returned from France & Algeria where she has done medical work. Now she is at the Harper Medical Research Lab in S.F. The 3 ques visited the Academy Museum in Golden Gate Park near her laboratory. I dried Mt. Palace with Price's afterwards

21 In the afternoon I visited Hilda at her lab in the Hooper Research Labs, at the Affiliated Colleges. She was clothed in an apron + had a series of test tubes filled with bacteria cultures some of which she showed me on slides. She had cages of guinea pigs in which she was growing tetanus, diphtheroid & other bacteria. She introduced me to Dr. Meyer the acting head who spoke of his experience in South & B.C. Africa with tetrafl. Another Dr. Williams I met also he has been in South America. At night Hilda dined with me in the reservroom of the Palace and danced until 11 P.M. Then I took her home to 2 Hugo Street in a [illegible]

(20) On the morning I dined with Everman, his family + Snyder at Oakland. Later I gave a talk in China The East at the Cooper Club in the New York. Zool. Here I met and old boys as Mailard Roswell Wheeler + Carridger. Wheeler who is a teacher in Oakland schools has travelled in China + Arabia & Japan At Kobe he said he had bought many beautiful Eastern slides of a local dealer who colored them. Snyder made some remarks after my Talk & said Carnivora Fishing could be seen by daylight at certain localities. There was a long discussion if only the crops are not entering insects because all insect feeding small birds have been exterminated in Japan

carmel (23) Hilda & I took a long walk to Mission & returned by the beach. (24) Hilda & I engaged in riding horses at Del Monte Hotel where we took lunch & looked over the Park & lit grounds. We rode out at 2 P.M., but Hilda's horse stampeded when frightened by a motor & threw her off in a grassy ditch but did not injure Hilda. She remounted as soon as we cought the horse & me than took a ride over the 17 mile grislanding roads. At 5 P.M., we reached Pebble Beach Lodge & took tea before a great fire place. We returned to Del Monte in the moon light & had dinner with Mrs. Reunault & her wife.

(2) Hilda took me down to Carmel for Xmas where her parents are stopping. We took the 2 P, Mr. Mann arrived at 6 P., Mr. Allen took a pulsator to Carmel. Her father is suffering from Bright's disease or nephritis & cough, stead marry or work owing to high blood pressure which this disease causes. He was prof. of language & Told me that he has many new facts on origin of English words & language in manuscript. Both he & his wife are from Mich- gan Univ. at Ann Arbor. Hilda has just returned from 4 yrs in England, 3 months in Algeria & Annatt in France doing Medical investigation on diphtheria germs as a free lance. She visited Denmark & Sweden also. The family put me up in the house & I was very comfortable

Jucille Mereaud later at the Caphein. 29-30 Spent the day in Fresno with the family: Derrigisquers Kath, 11 Elmer 13 + Lucille 18. Ernest is 43 only + 190 lb, mm. Crops conditions at Fresno good. 31 Jun night of 11:40 Ship left Fresno to Coral + reached Los Angeles at 10 A.M. Email all other Misses + Mr. F. P. Frank Houghton the Director, Thaylam 200 meters Skeleton 13 foot Leigh.

25) Christmas day was spent quietly at Carmel + the Hempels Gave presents to each other in the evening. Then we played cards. 26) I departed at 2:30 P.M. Hilda went with me by motor as far as Monterey. We had become inseparably attached in the seven days spent together. I departed for S.F. in distress. 27) Remained in S.F. & visited some of the new plays. 28) Dined dinner with her Swermann at the Heidelberg when I ate my first whole meat. St. Gertrud (1/4 beef when grilled but tasted flat, did not disagreeable at 4:40 P.M., I took the ferry for Jersey where breast meat meat 10 C.M., Antinella

I arrived at 6:30 t was nearly Will W o lints the Trolley to Rubidoux over the walked to the ranch in the dark. Emma cooked supper. There's only mo old horse on the ranch, a few cats & chickens, The corn is gone & the dogs. This last summer the manual oranges, walnut, & currant chickens even. The seedling oranges as a good crop & will bring 1000 good dollars. Many of the neighbors have converted their

Bison, camel lion (unclear) size of African lion, Sabre toothed tiger Large wolf, giant ground sloth bear with 17 inch skull. He showed me a large condor with a spread of wings 14 feet. (Calif. Catala?) They have Spring Ram, Indian relics printing I went to Stateroom, My father bygone twills from I'm matrix (unclear) chrome & his whole history again, His skeleton is shown in a case. At 3:30 I took the train for Riverside where

S. Calif. & East Appl. Lst. B. Thorne last June, Took the Golden State Limited at Colton at 1:30 P.M., The weather was warm & dusty. We passed out of the valley thru San Gorgonio Pass, no snow seen visible on the high San Bern. San Jacinto Mtns. At dusk we reached Salt Sea & skirted its margin. It is a permanent body of water now but has no vegetable growth near the shore or on the surface. It has every appearance of being only a few months old. T

Research to affa field into city for which [illegible] by [illegible] [illegible] Their meaning [illegible] on the [illegible] When many trees have died. Splinters & apricot [illegible] plants which [illegible] crop pay better. The ranch could be used for 10,000 [illegible] per acre. £1500 = for city lots. There has been no pain the English sprays, quail, [illegible] and millet [illegible] all the [illegible] has just passed 40 years ago [illegible]

Oriental distances (Miles) N.Y. to S.F. 3270 S.F. to Honolulu & Yokohama - 5460 Yokohama to Hong Kong via Manila - 2905 Hong Kong to Foochow-Vietnam 900 Foochow District 2.00 H-K via Haiphong to Yunnanfu 700. Yunnanfu to Tali-fu .160. Tali-fu to Chungkien via Tschwang 100. Chungkien to Tali-fu via Mekong R. 150. Tali-fu to Malipo via Yungchang 150 Malipha to Bhannor 170 Tenzin-yuth District 60, Bhannor to Rangoon 500. Rangoon to Calcutta 800 Calcutta to Hwangching Return 900. Calcutta Dist. 400 Calcutta to Hongkong via Singapore 3000 H.K. to Peking via Bangkok 1700 Peking to Seoul via Mukden 1005 Seoul to Yokohama 1110 Yokohama to S.F. via Honolulu 5460 S.F. to N.Y. via S.P. 4000 Total miles 31,950 ? Total 28000

Jan.2) Meawhole in arry a sin the Yucca Bell.The Country was dry + level with open Dourbles and feully Yuccas. Bare desert hill lines in the distance. The aftern was passed travelling thre New Mexico. At Columbus, a large camp of negr carols were guarding the border. We reached El Paso at 3 P. m. Here there were large camps of U.S. Soldiers guarding the Mexican Border. Many Mexicans were living in adobe houses in the most places near the town. ③ Our way day thres Kwises today. There was snow in sight. The weather was mild. Fields standing corn stalks + plowed fields great of the [illegible]

At 10 P.M. I reached Kansas City & stopped 10 minutes. I visited the tele- graph station but received no word from Oggood. 4 Hargraves in Illinois where we met our first snow. The fields bordering the track were covered by heavy snow and the weather was very cold. Chicago was reached at 1 P.M. at the Palace Street Station. I arranged to Field Museum but Oggood was away at Gulfport Miss for a fortnight of rests. A.B. Sevitz the anthropologist lefts rare game on my arrival at 7:30 at the Muston Hotel dinner with him at his house where [illegible]

Lewis His Wife & her sister, was a great library of travel books in his home many of which he has read. He told me of his 4 years travel in New Guinea Island showed me many photos he took there. He said the natives were fairly friendly he had no trouble but travel in the interior was impossible because of no food or transport except natives who eat themselves or food up in 16 days. The climate he said was said by experts to be the worst Malarial area in the world [illegible] who knew West Africa & India. He has published nothing about his New Guinea travel however. I met Gerhard & a new Main chief of Stanford who now has the Reptiles & the fishes in the museum.

5) Becker who is Ozgord's assist- and the Spartans sign in St. showed me around the Natural Department. Above between the Exhibits has found only a few new bird groups, They have an oil bird group from Columbia. The Anthropology dept. has its floor space stacked full cases so thickly that they purchase another that cannot be seen. At noon I took lunch with Mr. Lamper head of Anthropology at Marshall Fields restaurant on 1st floor. Lamper has been in Tibet west of Tachin lee on the Thassa road but was turned back by the Chinese govt. He is a Tibetan scholar & talks the language. In the afternoon Becker took me to the Adventurers Club where I met the President Russel Mott & several wealthy Big game shooters A Chicago

(5) Continued The Adventurers Club has [illegible] members among them T.R. McCulchtem Lewis Gold Berber & Capt. Foran who organized the club. He was our Press agent with Roosevelt on African Exp. & is now in France fighting under the British flag with Ramba A. Major This morning snow was falling heavily. I left Duxed, my way from the Tindall hotel where I stopped to the Pennsylvania Station. All the [illegible] trains have been [illegible] by the coach, but I managed to catch the slow to Ann. Tanin which left at two o'clock. By dusk we had travelled beyond the snow storm. The train was crowded & no buffet [illegible]

6.7 The train reached N.Y. at 6 P.M., 2 hours late. I called up Mrs. Akeley & found that her hubby was in his camera shop working. I went down at 9 P.M., & found him with a new camera, which he has standardized it is now building for the U.S. gov't. for aviation service. He's putting in all his time on the camera. After dinner with him I betook myself to a hotel. I tried the Embankment Manhattan without success & then got a room in the Belmond

The automobile show the coal furnace seems to have caused this fully 8 Visited the museum + opened my mail. Turk tea with Mrs. Abley at the Waldorf. Dined with her + Clark at a French restaurant. Afterward we went home + got Abley + attended the Girl, Soc, meeting at the Waldorf, where Andrews showed his color photo slides of China. 9 Spent evening with Waebe at the Edificio. He is with the Prizme for moving picture Co. Thursday - Museum 10 Attended the Explorers Soc. where George Talbot on Congo motive + dress.

12 Moved into a room at 82 nd Street, Nov. 24

Since leaving the U.S.A in June 1916 I have travelled over 3,000 miles through distinct countries of distinct peoples but not under different flags. From June 12 to Dec. 21, 22 or later I have travelled continuously this is for 6 months - 1 Japanese 2 Hawaiian 3 Chinese 4 Anamene 5 Shans (Siamese) 6 Burmese 7 Thibetans 8 Bengalese 9 Nepalese 10 Malay 11 Manchus 12 Koreans

Shanghai Firms Mactavish + Lehmann Photographers O.K. Best Squire + Bingham Ammunition, No guns - ! Jane Crawford for Provisions

Shanghai - Forward Bozzy - Yuhuhang Books - China - Geil MacMillan - Tropical Bird, Atlas China Inland Missions, Smith Books China Korea Canton Hainan Island and stuff J.A.C. Dr. Smith 320 Ave. Paul Brown Woo Hang Tsa Arnold

Hartman [illegible] Street $10.00 Sept. 19 [illegible] 21.00 Jacobson Lone - Tumber Formerly B.A.T Co. Yokohama Tailors Chinese tailors next door to Pleasanton Hotel OK,

Take 12k Steamer T/K/5 To Shanghai + to the Tung From there on October 26 Palace Hotel, Shanghai W.C.O.K. Shanghai Dr. Smith, J.A.C. 320 Rue Paul Brunet Woo Hang T'ao Sawerby - Colley Labor Tien-ther Dr. Morrison - Tien pien ? Tien - Khan ? Peking

My 13th Trip Around the World and How I Discovered China: being a series of near truths about my own greatness

Books Wanted - River of Golden Sands - Marco Polo - with Maps Blamford Mans, India Eaib Nunn - man Dr. Schiefly - Severance Hospital Second, New style bridge pins Capable of being taken out + cleaned at times + sets in a locked pin. Old style cemented down + a germ collector. Phonethrough Doric acid as much as will dissolve added to an equal amount of water.

Marco P. Slot's Travels Make Expedition duplicating his travels for N.D.S., No 150 Fiber Trunk Light clothes, books T.R.K. Co. Forward 3 Fiber trunks 137, 150, 156 1 telescope 1 Steel trunk 3 Bags; 2 brown, 1 white 8 Oct. 12/19

Reid for Jas. Macdonald Aug. 20 - Cadentla 100. Rupees Hartmann At 10.m Along King Sept 28 = 10.00 Yingshaw Oct 1 = 20.00 Shanghai " 2 = 16.50 " r 21.45 Telegraphic 71.45 Paid 52.20 gold Morris Seidl - Dollars to Sam Reg. Well Known

Eyp. Acc, A.M.N.H. June 9-16 Circuit House Bharno 7 days food 4 rooms 16 Bharno to Mandalay fare 16-18 " " pod 16 Buggy +garry to Stan. Bharno 16-24 Mandalay to Rangoon fare " " pod 24 Baggage transfer 24-30 Rangoon Hotel, 7 days 30 Calcutta to Rangoon 30 Buggy Transfer Rangoon 2 weeks Calcutta Hotel C12=168. Aug. 23 Calcutta to Hong Kong Pup 3 00. 2 Week Singapore Mex Hong Kong Hotel HK to Bangkok Mex Shanghai to S.F. gold 250.00 Up Bahamian (1+1) 10days 6.00 60.00 S.F. Days 2day S.F. to N.Y. fare Berths 2 Varela 5 days @ 4.50 Pup, 60. 40. 20. 3. 66. 32. 3. 90. 90. 3. 168. 3 00. 4.05. Mex 24 day 36.00 12.50. 2.00 12.00 80.00 2.0. my 2.2. cn

S.T. D. M. G. A. O. O. 55. 10 [illegible]

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