Document Pages

182 Pages
Page 1
March 6, 1935 We left Port Moody about 1 P.M. in the Hotel Carry. As far as Sophie Creek (4 miles or 1.14 p.m.) but this country was broken hilly country with several swamps. We saw several kinds of Birds, loon, lynx, jaycine, road clover, crackete, wobbly (Mallard). After crossing the creek we ascend with a little difficulty in one place along a hill with several switch back and it was when we were practically up about 94 mile from Roana we saw a wallaby. We arrived here about 3:30 and spent the afternoon getting settled & shooting some swifts that seem fairly common. The cottage is rather small but we have another which is spacious enough. The King family that run a Hotel where we eat seem very nice. March 7, 1935 We were awakened about 5:30 by some birds calling in some trees near our cabin (Giant Kestrelfishes). We got up about 6:10 and had breakfast about 6:45 after which I went out to set some traps. I went back up into the forest above camp there are not a great number of large tree tree going is not too hard, not a great number of vines and dots of rocks, conglomerate, volcano, I made two sets on the edge one under a large rock the other by some trees. And one in the forest a little way. 3 in 1st & 2 in 2nd (forest) 4 in 3rd. I returned to camp about nine thirty ten o'clock. While sitting near I saw and shot a bird of Joracked jaycine flew out of a clump of vines by a fruit tree. It was 30 to 40 ft from ground but not in the tree top. I left my traps and got my camera and went in the direction of the falls where I shot a wobbly by the fence of this point end a swift but as I was going after it a wallaby? scooted off through the grass I shot. of the moving grass with No 12 shot but missed. I then shot while standing on the conglomerate boulders a Blue-camery (notrix) in a wacalypto and collecting flyings.
Page 3
time 1:35 air temp 30.0 c boiling point 89.4 android 720 air known uncovered 727.81 M.D.II. = 410mtn a Autamus flying over catching insects. There were also a number of the purple colored flying about and several other birds. Shortly homwards I was again startled and released o. I got back to the combino and shot about 11:00 and about 45 mins before lunch resty and writing note. After lunch I took out all the instruments while writing up the notes a bunch of birds came over but I went out to get some it was raining slightly when I left but I had only gotten bridle into the woods when it came on its fully pour, so hard that I could scarcely see and its water ran down my neck so fast that I quickly got as sort as though. I hadn't any slicker I did last get a Hoodmer Muscatlaurus. When I came in I decided that it was no use sitting around wet so I went down to the river very fast, and what was a roaring Torrent. I shot a centronus on its way down, and a flock of Birds of Paradise. A shoot the valley there was three white Perrotos and another large black bird with a white bar on his tail. I saw a number of fair sized runways in the dark grass at the bottom. I did not go into the rain first. I came up straight up the valley to the place where I saw the wallpigs in the morning but saw nothing of them. There were quite a number of the same swito that I shot yesterday s. I had a wild good chase after some red headed juards and just below earbin in some grass I shot two green warblers (black+white). After supper I went shooting and got 2 night jays. Theirs eyes shined like lightes I have ever seen yellowish white. The first was sitting on a fince foot and the second was on the top of a
Page 9
I got back to camp after setting out two more sets of S about 10 o'clock and went out shortly down the road I skated the road on top of the steep hill or rather just before and went to the top of the fall where I shot at and missed a fairly long hawk and from there I went went straight down to the meeting The road where it make the hairpin turn I did not see anything until I had gotten back to the place where I skated it and then I shot a gray warbler, a and a oratorica. I got back to camp sometime after eleven and it shortly came on to rain raining quite hard off and on for the rest of the day and night. It took me the rest of the day to clean out two of the nets and partly finish scaling the Megani (Meropini?) as he is called by the Motuans and local white. March 10, 1935 The weather to day so far has been dull with the sky practically entirely overcast. It started to spitch when I was visiting early trap but I did not amount to anything. One trap in set No. 4, 5 & 7 loose strong and pulled out at 7 there were some Centrifuge feathers. At seven eight I got a rat of 32 same species. After supper was finished. After supper I went down the road shooting. I shot a frog mouth out of a tree just below camp. I did not see anything further until I went past the hairpin bend where I shot out of a Umbrella two a Petaurus his eyes shone rather well out of some as well as its right paw and I then turned back and was about half way up the hill when I shot at and missed a night hawk. March 11, 1935 The weather was the same as yesterday. I took the anemoid along and found the altitude of the various site as follows camp set at 460. 1- — 4 - 490 16 - 580 2- — 5 - 510 7 - 590 3- — 6 - 560 8 - 595 At set no. 7 I got a light Brown rat. It was in the same trap as the one before. Hand shot a Megany & with a small young in the pouch
Page 11
and like the previous one it stomed was full full of grass and take worms somewhat larger about 3 em long the stomach of the Petara was almost empty and what was in it was green so my conclusion that it was eating the red berries of the Umbrella Tree is incorrect I went out shooting last night on the path to Orange but my shooting was hardly off I missed a night hawk by the road and just on other side (Orange) I also missed a mammal of some sort judging from the size of it the eyes of fairly good size he was fleeing over the top of a rock above the trail I went on about a mile and then turned back. I missed a lot but it was rather dark just before entering the last rainforest and just around the bend from the place where I shot at the animal I missed a frog- mouth and shortly afterwards I shot and probably hit a bird sailing over head for I heard him crash into its hill. Just before rounding the bend onto the rise I missed twice what I now some was a Petaras for his eye shone in the same way as the first one when I fired at him on down the trunk of the tree. I did not see him after the second shot. Again I missed that frog mouth that was setting in the crotch of a tree. I shot a bright jar just before getting to camp that was setting on a branch of a fallen tree but missed another that was in a similar but just a little way off. March 12. 1933 I had very little luck with my tiger I got only a Light Brown set in at no.4. I got into camp about 9.45 and shot the morning writing and Edamson came in about eleven go on shooting moon hours until two or three in the afternoon talking over the trip to Dr Albert Edward I'm the evening I went shooting but did not see anything. I missed old I believe was another or possibly the same as last night, a Petaras in a tree by the river across the path from last night his was in an umbrella tree. I did not go far only to the other side of the woods coming back I chased a night hawk around but did not get at it.
Page 13
March 13, 1933 I had pretty fine luck with my traps. Got 5 rats, one each of sets 4, 7 & 8 and two at the side of the woods to Orange. The old man in the scrubby trees that borders the forest one was the Coarse Brown Hareh. Furred rat. The other was very similar to the Black Brown Rat but as he seemed dwarf I called him Black wochrat. I continued up the hill to Catop and shot on top two species of Lark sprikes that were new to my collection. On top, fog rootings were very abundant. March 14, 1933 I picked up my traps in the wood and shaved and got B.N. J's truck for Bill Morely at ten. One of the traps were bitten Spring but nothing in it. On the way down I saw a bedeler and several other rats I smell that seemed different from those of Mono. I also saw above the large mast, a dark hawk, possibly a Marsh Hawk. I saw Mrs Clay and then went to B.N. and Orange to lunch with them. I went to the county office and found that Roosevelt had declared a general Bank holiday. On taking at the bar I found out about the arrest of Ed Japanese Embassador and of the Hollywood Earl- grade. March 15, 1933 I went to the Bank at 1:00 and got the money for the shoot of Burma Phelps (B.P.) $500. with $1400.- ($1400.00 - $507/140) in the afternoon I walked out to Kamatada and looked on a few pictures, one of an golgoasum, one of some Berner's like birds in a tall end one of some native women curing. March 16, 1933 I returned to Kamatada with B.N. J.'s truck. We left about 1:30 or 1:45. About 10 miles out a Centrola flew across the road carrying straw. About the same time I saw a very sleek winged hawk? about the size of a Sharrow Hawk and at the 14 mile post near Snyder's gation I saw quite a number of Jay headed wren birds. and another large dark hawk. I saw also in the low country quite a number of fast Kingfishers we saw on Meganey with any
Page 15
I spent the rest of the morning doing odd jobs about camp, afterward I went down to the hiloboro the road I walked by the Dacquin but they all look good, the people and also I saw along very far another which just vanished into thin air. I shot a green parrot, a starling, and a honey eater as well as a down Centrifuge he was just groggy behind a fellow branch on a rock and he looked like a fat baby or goose so I shot him "one time" the weather today (4/30) has been fine though rather warm; after supper the weather was a little unsettled near the coast I went out shortly. I started out towards Orange, shot a giant Kingfisher out of a tree on the flat, I had seen him there practically every time I had gone in that direction (4:45) sitting on the same branch and facing the same direction that is toward the settler camp he is probably one of the giant kingfishers that has been screaming us every morning about 5:45 and in the evening 7:00 which is just before sunrise or sunset. Just after sunset shortly I saw a night heron fly off, it was quite a sight to see its white light go sailing along as it flew across the flat as I saw nothing further I came back and went towards Port Pirie just around the bend I saw what was probably a Petrel but when I moved closer to get a shot I lost sight of him almost to the start of the long hill, I shot over his way just flies across the road just a little way around the bend of the start of the hill I saw what I thought was the dull reddish gleam of an owl, it flew before I got within range but I followed him up the hill and succeeded in shooting him but he turned out to be from my mouth. I came back to camp over the top of the hill for another morning's more so I got back to camp at 9:00 a bit little earlier and shutty flat just comes on to rain. March 17, 1933 I just went down to the hills and shot two green hares and a cockatoo shrike and also took a couple of pictures of the animals. I then returned to camp about 9:15
Page 25
March 30 1933 From March 21 to the 29 we spent in Port Morely packing the few groceries we got at Bona trading supply and sorting our gear and doing a lot of loafing while getting bags. BP has psychod and maneuvered all our boxes of food into crescentin T cases. We have gotten seven boys; a cook, helper, and two others all from Hana'abado (Big village in Mota) one is deafly drunk but sleeps rather quick and is reputed to be a good cook, better than the cook or if the cook turns out to be what he seems, a bush league, he will get the such Mr Adamson left in his launch Monday for Yale where we were to have met him yesterday but after the HTS did not come on we are already late. This day the weather is fine. When we left the mountain was free of clouds and they rose blue silhouette against the sky, it was quite an impressive sight. Clouds gradually bow in and settled in the mountain so that now, from their as came down to probably two thousand feet, the effect is pretty as the rest of the sky our land is free and thus is the view Malayan hills here and there one sees glooms and little there are monotonous horizon. On board everyone is sleeping (except the helmsman) only one or two netting were dozing, sing maybe with the scent of the diesel. We are dragging four feet clear but so far there have been nothing false alarms. We have two other passengers. Last night we went to Police Commissioners Sogans house and played poker until midnight after which we packed until they turned the light out which was about one so we had to get up again at six to finish which we did not. Get away for schedule at seven. It is rather hard to write at the bottom of this page while holding on to your lgh. I know what we have seen so far to day, two court fish bags are mostly mangroves swamps flooded by forest or seaweed and occasionally grassland. When we
Page 27
gors in cloud as on the way to Roma one quickly clent of about 70 meters to a hilly savouch country with some extensive swamps that are covered with a peculiar high grass (3 meters) and in the gallison get forest. This extends for about 24 miles that is Saylor creek after one climbs a quite high hill (200-300 meters) and has the gallin become more numerous, thforest following, erect and shapely leaves. There is one clear view of the 16 mile post. Parametric Cross, 3:25 756 mm Intermediate air 29.5 C. set at 0 meters We arrived at Yale island about six and were met by Mr Robinson who had borrowed the mission barge to unload our stuff. But as the H.F.S. was staying until the next day so that we could load it directly into the government canoe that was going to take us up the river it was this away. We went ashore and after a little trouble getting the punt anchored in the dark and we went to the patrol officers quarters where we met Patrol Officers Middleton and Shields and another man called Vike. We spent a pleasant evening and managed to consume a little over a bottle of O.P. Rum. March 31, 1935 We went the first thing after breakfast to see Mr C Thompson the A.R.M. and showed him our permits and arranged for the hire of the canoe and prisoners for tomorrow. We then went out to the H.F.S. and unloaded our gear succeeding in getting it all on the canoe which we anchored off shore for tomorrow while we were unloading we met Mr Goodgear and Joe Bate who went ashore with wood. We all had lunch together and about four we took things from in Glamorous island and went on to try Paluan Flat which was anchored at the western end of the island at Mr Bates station. We found that our boys had not come
Page 29
which was a disappointment Mr Adomson find an old partner and we took him ashore will has to suffer about ten Mr Brass & Myself retired as it partly seemed on the point of failure ending but fortunately it came on to rain so they decided to stay off all night did not join them as I did not know what would up. April 1, 1931 We got away about [illegible] eight and after two hours of chugging got to the mouth of the river where we got stuck momentarily & thus delay could be to miss the tide. We went on up the river which was entirely bordered by mangrove swamps untill we come to a native village about one & 1/2; it was apparent that we could not catch the tide we transferred our loads to [illegible] and leaving the cano we went on under a local craft. We arrived out of the mangroves and into the palmville next up the Bisto Creek which was smaller & faster than the city Ethel to the village of Bioto where we unloaded and had tea and also after some juggling we got a motor and Brass & Press went on to Adomsons craft "Baraka" Mr Adomson & I went back to the canos and started towing which was about six by the tide had turned we went along much faster. This time we did not turn off up the Bioto creek but kept at it to the Ethel To Cr [illegible] which is the mission station where we arrived tied up to its dock after a very light supper of bread, molasses & tea we landed in into saw mill, April 2, 1933 We slept rather late and by the time we got up, the Craft had the cargo loaded. As some thing had gone wrong with the motor and also we wanted to get permission to store our rice on they were since we went up to the mission where we were treated to a cup of tea by the Filipino half caste that was building the blue costic old building had been burnt. We then set out to walk to Baraka as the Half Cast told us that Mr Adomsons fuel bay [illegible]
Page 31
26 had gone to make sego, we were met half way by Mr Brass with the mules he had mustered them himself so we returned and loaded them up. We got into camp about at 12:30, and the rest of the day I spent about camp. April 3, 1955 First start camp while Mr adamsen worked the mules mammals was frightfully mothers April 4, 1733 Set out 24 hot traps and cleaned 9 casts of rats that were caught in. My opinion it looked to be the same as yesterday. In the evening I went out down the trail as far as where it crosses the swamp on my way out I saw nothing except a large spider on which I wasted four shots. It was running up and down a pine and his legs short very large. On my way to back down most of the way through that lowland forest when the trail was quite narrow and closed in on each side I noticed a small bird would fly just to the edge of the woods and come back to one another. I approached the edge his flight became shorter & shorter until finally he dashed fast an about 30 meters from the edge of the forest. And sitting on the top of a sycampte tree that on owl, it too in to forest by the creek below camp I missed a large bird that flew up, evidently a stump bradley, trail and at the near edge of the forest. I shot a Piro Mouth. April 5, 1955 I caught an extra in the savanly forest sd no 10 a "red rat" probably Melongs. We succeeded in getting some twenty men & women to sell carry some of our gear that would not load well on mules we had to pay them sticks of tobacco and a few of rice. The women carried the heaviest loads. About fifty Middleton's porters upon to arrive and their arrival about 6pm we had a bit of a scare when one of the porters reported that one was fatally, and had died but it appeared was
Page 33
entirely mortel as when he was carried in, he was quite revived with a little shaking, he clapped his ankle something and finding it was a snake fell off. April 6, 1933 I got up before breakfast and developed a film No XXV. No 37 women under tree at Lot Mardy; 28 loading steamship trading about the H+ S; 39, 40, courier route yule Island; 41 + 44 Patrol officers at home, yule island; 42 + 43, Coconut trees, yale island; 45 view of harbor, yule island; 46, 47 + 1 loading canoe with load of coco 2 - 7 in. canoe hid on in Ethel river below village; 8-13 in. above village; 14 - 23 Biota creek with native canoes and Nephalema; 25 natives of Biota village. A native brought in a Placopus. I caught two mammals in sets No 34 & the one in Ethel is to badly shoulders rats to save this is no small. Before starting hand I myself had shot a white head hawk (Balasta). Just after daylight took a walk up its trail and shot a green pigeon, and a police boy came in ya Middletons Cash for which the Police way had left before. He left again so as to catch Middleton by tomorrow morning. April 7 I caught 3 cats in sets No 3, 5, 9 all the same species and set out 16 more traps plugging them out as far as its coconut in the swamp in the evening. I went on afterwards I missed a night jar that was sitting in the crocal of a tie by the two streams in the pasture. I did not see anything more until just as I came out to shoot the big swamp with the coconuts when on looking back I saw a bird flying probably a night hawk. I missed. Second I missed another that I stalked clear across the swamp; he was sitting on a dead limb at the upper edge of its forest. I saw another one on the hull side at the far side of the swamp.
Page 37
I missed what might be an owl. He flew from a dead branch the very next day to a tree in the savannah I should have hit could not find him. I then saw two goats, one just off our getting to the junction of the trails, one was lower down and nearer and the other was higher and further. Just as I was going to shoot the lower one when the apples one almost flew into me causing me to pull off but I got him on the second. Unfortunately I pulled stiffly on his ear and pulled out his tail. I went along the Chapman trail a short 1/4 mile but saw no other furthers coming back I heard a lot of rustling and a charging sound that in the grass and I again saw the bright fur on the hill at some miles of the savannah. He was at the same place as originally. But then flew along to another tree to a hollow clump of trees and after a short pause he flew to a clump of bushes halfway between where I tried a shot but missed it. I think it was just as well as our going was out of the beasts were still sitting there when I left. I shot at one that was at the edge of the forest near where the fence enters and I shot one that was sitting in the path in the forest of the porters. April 8, 1935 I caught seven mammals of which only four were fit to make up the red. Were badly damaged by the trap and eaten by ants. Of but two were caught catchers in the savannah or grass swamp. Oedolish from and seems to be restricted to the rain forest I put out six more traps in the swamp. April 9, 1935 I caught Hornass mammal. One was badly eaten. by and by accident two in the own pit caught (but?) I caught a sandboart. The trap had caught him across the neck but he was still trying to pack out and when I tried to pick him up he scratched so hard I had to kill him with my foot.
Page 41
April 10, 1935 I caught 4 mammals (Sets 7, 11, 14, 21) two new to the collection. April 11, 1935 no notes for the major Adamson came in about noon having had hard luck in finding his mule and moderate luck in getting boys to get three and a promise of 30 deer from another. April 12, 1935 I developed film no. XXVI (26) taken at Baroka Nos. 30-35 inc. an overview of main ranges from Adamsons going with Bisto - Arui swamp 34, 37; young Pittas Board cat. No.: 1st 38 catch not sid 39, 40 sunsets on misty morning 42 for Coconut tree in swamp bird set 17, 20, 21; Nos 43, 44, 45 track of Bird of Paradise Board cat. No.: 1, 47 shaving party (water), 2, 3, 4 seconds between trip sets 15 & 16, 59 for Coconut swamp 8+ 9 tree later or just the fallen, 12+13 in coconut swamp. After Belchford I picked up trip No.: 17 5 mammals all over in forest or on the edge of the woods only two were fit to make up. I spent half on how at the Bapo the rest of the day was spent in hacking for the mountain trip. April 13, 1935 After some battle we got along about eight I tried to photo informally to Adamsons first was found to be lame or fatigued as he would not ride mule. We left Bisto about mid day thirty or a little after and had an extra woman trip down the river. The promised porters show up but would only go as far as Matalo and wanted such a high price that we decided could not secure them. We also found that the Monaro is not coming in until Sunday so our will have to wait for her.
Page 43
April 14, 1933 Barometer in morning (about 7:15) 758 mm. As the expected Montoro did no come in in the morning we settled down to do nothing. Adamson was not feeling too good -- no doubt caused by his carbuckle though he laid it to the beer Thompson gave us last night. The Montoro showed up unexpectedly about fourr and I had to shave in a great hurry as Adamson's boat w as the only launch available at the moment. We had decided that if theree was no work from Clay about our Bamu boys I would go into Port. So I borrowed a coat of one of the Stewards. We got away about eleven thirty. April 15 - 19, 1933 Spent in Port I found out from Clay that Luff could not get the boys in time and that He had written Adamson, but I don't think that he has received it. The west- has been rather warm with the wind from the N.W. Mr. Schuler and I went out on a native canoe Sunday and had a pleasant time.We only went as far as the first island as there was not much wind. I walked around the island and then we went out on the reef and tried diving for coralls but did not have much success though we enjoyed it. We got back about four thirty just in time to miss a rian storm. Monday afternoon I watched the cricket and in the evening I went up to the Public works club as the Guest of Tom Launey and enjoyed it very much. Yesterday I made out a catalogue for my negatives I found that I had duplicated two. Joe Bray came around and said he had found us some boys but when I explained what they were to do (rather the majestrate did the explaining) they backed off, aparently Joe had told them that they were to be shooting boys of something. April 20, 1933 I went down in the morning and got my ticket to Penha and went to BL. I got a few roads to Pahi Pahi. The (?) Chief came in about eleven and two was a grand rush to get him embarked and loaded. They partly unloaded us and loaded him, thinking that six. I went aboard about 10. April 21, 1933 I had rather a wakeful night. The first part was terribly stuffy with a few mosquitoes so I got up and went to the end of the way and sat for a while. About four eights Gula (Blue) came off so I got a cool shot of fresh air before daylight when we started and I had to get my cabin to a center which turned out perfectly fine. Had breakfast and caught wind and afterwards I was back to my stanchion. I don't know what caused it, it was very rough but I almost immediately went and had some fresh fish. I spent today sleeping and calling to an engineer. We got to Penha about four thirty. I stayed aboard for the night as there was no hand of getting off the river.
Page 45
April 22, 1933 Admonson arrived from Beato about noon or a little before and we went ashore to see the A.K.M. in return of the deforest for native labour that he had deposited with him. We then went down to Joe Bray's and returned for Kai Kai about 2 o'clock and the afternoon was spent on discussing plans for this trip inland. Brass is already two days here and if we get one or two more for us both there & I will go straight to O'roge otherwise I and start a lay at Wiana where Brass is staying. April 23, 1933 Spent the morning and most of the afternoon waiting for the Vanmauri. We went about eleven in Admonsons launch to Devotoi wher we bought from Tom Baker a couple of hurricane lamps and some Kaihai fort's toys and a few odds and ends that we needed. On the way Aroi and gave fine instructions to Joe Bray about our careers. I made an awful ass of myself at tennis in the afternoon playing terribly. The Vanmauri arrived about sundown minus also affected, the horse. I took a bottle of beer to Admonson on a 2 to 1 bet. We went on a bit of a shrew cursing Smith and co. So we did not turn an until about 2 o'clock. April 24, 1933 We awoke not all with a terrible head. I think I would have been all right if I hadn't gone to run from whisky on the last somewhat there is no use crying over spilt milk. We got away on the trip to Boroka about 7 and got into Boroka about 9:30. I got one or two pictures of the boat with its "E.C" flag at Bisto. April 25, 1933 Admonson left for Angabunga plantation in order to get three more horses. We spent the day slaying mosquitoes and doing a few odd jobs.
Page 47
April 25, 1933 Cont'd After supper I went shooting just past the gate some animal probably a Macaw flew off through the grass but I was unable to see him. He left way into the second [large] rainforest and small animal caught up with it. I shot at him but missed and about 10th way through I shot a Dactylorhiza in a low lean over tree. In the grass swamp on a palm or young coconut tree I shot a Pteropus. He had a bit of luck finding his castle grass was higher than my head. I succeeded in walking straight to him. After I shot with what I thought was an ant but could not find it. I happened to shoot sing light into a neighboring coconut and caught glimpses of a Petman. I went over to pick him up when I saw another but he sailed off hard hit but I lost him. I got the first. I walked to inner edges of the coconuts and strode back when I shot another bat that proved larger. April 26, 1933 The morning was spent in skinning out last night's catch and getting ready to leave. Later afternoon was spent similarly and in conjecture whether Adamson would arrive. He got in a little before six. I went shooting after supper. April 27, 1933 As it was necessary to give the two horses that Adamson brought to rest we spent the day loafing around and on fruiting for calls to the lobbes. April 28, 1933 I packed one of the two new horses with boxes of my clothing & blankets using a side saddle as Adamson doesn't know the cleaver field. We got started at eight we went along a small track for an hour and half then alternate savannah & partly forest from the to the mission road. From there we continued through its same country for a half hour to the rainforest we continued up hill for another half hour then up & down for 3/4 and then down the last hr. to Kibuna where we got arrived about 2 o'clock noon. We fed lunch about one and about three, we had awash & swim in the
Page 49
Kubana river after which we went I called on the major. They gave us some tea + hot tangerines, +eatkins. We had supper at six + bed at rave. April 29, 1933 We got started at eight after a bit of excitement at finding a snake in the rest room. we had an uphill pull for the first two hrs. and then hill down for 1/2 and down slightly for the last 1/2. The last half hr + 1/2 hrs was a bit muddy as the brush has not been clear back. The whole of the day was through heavy rain forest. We did nothing except wait note in the afternoon there is a fine view over the forest from camphedana. April 30, 1933 We got away away from Diene at 7:15th trail after taking a couple of switch back right away it trail went through a tunnel through the forest for 2 hrs. to Trofo-fofo where we got into lot of mud for the last hr except for the two clear pastures Trofo-fofo and here, maclea, the country are entirely rain forest. I shot a hawk from a tree near camp in the afternoon and about four I climbed its cleared peak and got a fine view as far as the coast. The altitude by barometer 740 meters while Diene was at 70 meters. May 1, 1933 We got away about 7: and went through heavy forest all day. The trail for the first hr was a boat fairly level then it a little bit down hill until it came to the edge of this valley, into the other of which it went on for four hrs. again in which I had a storm. We then had an 1/4 hr. fall up to the mission station and another 1/2 to Metchaka. Shortly after leaving the house Angabanga walked too close the edge, and out over bucketly we got him bad on- injured after unloading him. I had a fellow in it. Ewoi and we all staled at Welow for coffee and to
Page 51
have some mail. We had a fine view both from the mission & Mateka, & from the mission we had a particularly fine view of Mt. St. Marys. We had an accident shortly before starting to depart into the Jacaranda valley the new horse, Angabunga, slipped and went to its bottom of a stream fell about 10 ft. below from Mackus May 2 1933 The Trail for the first half of the way (about 2 hrs) wound around the sides of the valley climbing slowly all the time reaching a little over 400 meters according to my barometer. All the way we had good views of the nearby foot hill and an occasional glimpse of the main range. The trail all the way of change too very steep slopes across which numerous land slides had gone. Luckily for Angabunga slipped off the trail where there we put log to stop him. For the second half the trail after crossing the divide went down along the valley at first gradually & then in well graded switchbacks. All day thus were numerous clearings for gardens & villages perched out of ridge shoulders. The abandoned gardens were gradually returning to forest while the higher were going to grass. At Mateka we got a starter to take its load from one of our who had a swelling of the leg glands and also found a woman to lightly lift all the loads by carrying them away. The mountain women dress similar to the men that is with only a narrow band of cloth passing between the legs. May 3, 1933 We had a little difficulty getting past but we just succeeded. We descended on switch backs for the first hr. to the Keo river which was very cold and pretty well a put high waterfall coming in opposite. It took me a little while to get across as I had to remove my dress boot case when I caught up with the outfit Actamson just reaching Angabunga who had gone over the side. Two hrs. from the Keo we came to Range view where we caught up with the ladies who continued into us for the forty minutes to Magulu where its three of us
Page 53
Stuffed to deliver small, pay our request and we were given a cup of coffee for our trouble. After leaving Mapulu we caught the carriers in forty minute. Rand stayed with them while Adamson & I went a head & caught the mules in another hr just as they were pulling in to Bella violet. May 4, 1933 From Belavista we could see from two pr along our route with smoke from Mondo the end of the days march four hrs off. This time it was Billy that went down the cliff so that we did not catch its spates. Adamson & I left the mail at five one and had a long talk we found out that Randal Hamkins had spent 2 weeks touring Brown Brothers Jeandron we got the key to their rest house of Mawe & Tapa. We got in at Mondo after a rather hot uphill slog just as the mules and the last of the carriers Rand had proceeded us in and was calmly sacking a rum crate. May 5, 1933 Start of Mondo to redly the carriers & get some more to take the loads from Belly & Kagabuye who were to foot sort to go farther. In the afternoon we played Cricket until the rain mist drove us in. May 6, 1933 We had a long uninvigull climb of 6 hrs. The last 2 hrs in rain which caused us to arrive at in its small guest cold & shivering. Middleton had come along with us as he is goin on a patrol down the Orange Valley. This was our highest camp. May 7, 1933 We had a easy three to four hours down hill all the way Rand Middleton & I were ahead with the mountain porters to pick a camp but could not set where it was Orange. Where we were invited to stay at the mission station by Mr Walter Duby, Who is most hospitable.
Page 55
Forest & Future Camps Heavy forest begins the coast side of Kabana and extending thru the other side was lower coastal forest (left Brass) Forest from this Diver side of Kabana to just before Ranger river pass foot full forest; possible camp at Jacksona of top R hill medium side. Mountain forest up to 2400 meters snow country in this most forest at or 12400 camp on Durie. May 8, 1935 Short in getting information about Albert-Edward etc. to May 9, 1935 We returned two hours along the trail to the short gap in spur called Namoda alt. 21000 - 2050) calla 2070 Adams on brought over with the males and continuation toward the coast for return to the coast for more supplies. May 10, 1935 I developed the two films taken on the way up and did odd things about camp. went for a short walk first it came on to rain a little before three. May 11, 1935 I went out shooting in the morning. After lunch was shot around gun as it came on to rain May 12, 1935 I went in the morning and again around five but did not get far as a matter one with a note that had been brought by two of Middleton's police scouts that he had broken his hockey shirt thermometer and asking for its loan of my outfit which I gave to his police. I went a little way shooting after supper but saw nothing. May 13, 1935 As usual I went shooting in the morning. In the afternoon I killed skin some birds. In the evening I was shooting and shot at pair of large bright red eyes in a low tree top but and find nothing. A little ways further just as I rounded a bird I saw two eye flying back a forward forwards and then it went and set on the end of a low overhanging
Page 57
hint and I saw that it was a smallist grey brown bat with large pointed ears. I backed off a little way and shot evidently blowing it off the trail and lost for over. May 14 1935 I went out shooting in the morning and succeeded in getting a few new species to his collection. In the afternoon while I was out a native brought in a Phalanger, the small species for which I gave him a small glass of rye. I spent the afternoon skinning it. As this was no advantage, it took rather long and it was not possible to get all the fat off. May 15 1935 I went with Rand to see the Bower bird's down-ground. The first was rather small and did not show much sign of recent use. The second was some what fresh, while the second gave clearly in me as some scars that Rand had put in the race track were removed. The race track was an oval of moss 800 x 650m with a brush or sticks in the center around which small sticks had been fast nailed to a height of 45cm, up to the height of its first ½ way of its sticks were broken off evenly to form a circle. After that they are rather rough. I continued on the native trail to Ksaddle on the other side when I went down to the main road or trail. about 11 o'clock I went back up to photograph the Bower and I saw the pair of birds feeding about 15 meters away of the leaf covered hill side. In the afternoon I was at replacing the broken bands to my large knife. On May 14 1933 I went up the ridge by the native trail. It climbs at first quite steep and then comes up and down on top of different covered knapridged full, then steeply down to the saddle I saw few birds a couple of long tailed parrots some fairly large bird that was now fairly recently a squirrel and a broad billed fly-catcher which I shot; a cotho strike while I went to places with the box and several friendly fly catchers. I then climbed the first hill which was very steep. I shot of large pigeon on the bit he dropped into a mess of mud and I could not find it. On could get a fine view of the main range when there were no clouds I could only see what a thing is but Victoria
Page 59
I returned slowly to the saddle as Mt. Safa was in the mist and came down a rather poor motor trail to the main road. About two thirty a native brought an umbrella and it took me all the rest of the evening to skin and sew up the leg which had to be split off and on to rain about three and continued until just before supper. It continued to be quite misty all the rest of the evening. We heard a strange noise back of camp and I took the light and succeeded in catching for a moment only two large reddish eyes which were quite bright. May 17, 1933 Spent the entire day in camp. Brother Deandron came through about ten on his way to Omong. Freig's Middleton's traps and a letter from Adomson with bad news, "Blair" had gone home and had to be left at Mafule. After lunch a boy arrived with two letters and some flowers from Middleton who had just gotten back to Omong from his trip to Albert-Edward saying that he would be up to see us tomorrow. One native brought in a Pseudonus which took me all afternoon to skin and then I did not have time to make it up. May 18, 1933 In the morning I wasted around working on the tracing of the map of the valley which had forwarded from Middleton and trying getting on his traps until Brother Deandron came along on his return to Mave for more supplies for the mission. I learned from him that Middleton would not be along so I went up the ridge along the old motor trail setting a trap when I returned I found Middleton waiting. We spent the rest of the day all about this discussing Albert Edward. He spent four days on foot only two of which he could see anything at all, the rest of the time it was mostly fog cold. Minimum temperature 5° at evening. He left Urusei next house by lamp light at 4:30 and went to its last village Ivale where he stopped to kill a pig from there and continued on up the ridge passing Chongham old Camp just above the forest and across the esc where his milk came as it was threatening to rain.
Page 61
The height of his camp as he made it with his thermometer was 9,343 ft. The next morning he got started at 6:40 and crossed the Era and continued towards water fall (which did not fall) for twenty minutes when he left the main track which went to Kuana turning to the North or N.E. to go through a clump of timber. He marked this turning by an arrow blaze on tree fern and by blocking the track with sticks. Then at 8:35 passed the head of the "Reon" on his left and at 9:40 left the divide on the right crossing the end of the Benda Lake then back on to the divide leaving the Reon basin on his left at 9:15 he was traveling West, 9:20 W by N. 9:30 WNW until he came to a lot of hot holes full of water through maintained for three minutes then shortening Marudodoa swamp which looked like a salt pan at 9:40 he was traveling N. 9:55 traveling E of N up a very steep hill bed by 10:10 passed through a swampy division and at 10:32 he encountered the first rock foldings and at 10:40 he came to a native camp consisting of bark shelter. Lean to the style there for lunch leaving again at 12:05 he returned down the trail for about 50 yards and then turned off to the left (facing up) and traveled NW then N. at 12:35, NE at 12:40 he crossed Mamase Creek and just after looking over it again he found himself between two sticks. Then he went down to Saw-in Creek at 12:50 N 12:56 E at 12:58 NE 102 N at 1:08 the mist lifted a little and he saw a swamp on left at 1:17 traveling N between lakes and at 1:20 arrived at Garinda where he made camp. The height of which he made boiling point 98.5 Centigrade temperature of air 55 Fahrenheit. He lived two more patches of timber all the way. From Garinda to the top of the Central Peak Glacier it took him 1 1/4 hrs. The native name for the West Dome is Bridge. He made the boiling point of Garinda 87.5 Cent. air temp. 43 F. Elevation 12,551 ft. He advised me to make the first day to Champion's ell each set the second to the head of the Reon. He returned all the way to O-norge in one day 13 1/2 hrs. The last of which was in the dark. He gave as the following name of Kuana boys who agreed to carry for us.
Page 63
ODE Manuelo YAMU BATA Ranelli UDI AU genezoli KASU M[illegible] Magilini AVELI KAMU Gusi Volu Josipa BENI SANGO Yui, IA, Valencio Gusi Galliano The printed names on the motor one read give more while the written ones none gives when he was lightened. May 15/1933 It rained during the night a thing I hadn't done before. I went out and waited the traps, and got seven mammals in the ten traps. The Petamur was in a run by a tree under its overhanging moss covered dark over a steeple. The rest rats were far further up the hill. I climbed immediately after visiting the traps and photographed its Petamurs and stated shining. I got six finished. May 20/1935 I caught a Melanpelta in my lowest trap and only one rat. The traps are up a very steep, filled with quite a lot of under brush. The ground is bare leaf covered with the roots etc moss covered. I continued on over the hill. Just short of 2200 meters I noticed found a large Brown bird once ground probably not in use as there was no more platform and a little above it I found one that of partly set in the process of being made. There was across platform that showed no sign of a track. The pile of sticks was only about 16 cm high off the trail. The altitude of the trap was 2309 meters. A little way down the other side I stopped to take a pot downwardly the road looked through on opening. May 21/1935 I developed the film faster by Mr. Middleton on Mt. Albert-Edward I made, rather a mess of it but they were pretty good just as same. And could all night so that I did little or nothing all day except show the one part that I caught in my traps.
Page 65
May 22 1935 caught one White footed mouse and about three another brought in another Maloney's which I was again unable to finish the rest of the day was spent in making working on the handle of my knife. May 23 1933 Caught one white footed mouse and meowe shot a Peramelas whose stomach contained undi- ermined vegetable matter. I developed extra roll of film that was in my camera as I had found and finished the handle of the knife the picture turned out fine. About four a native came by with the report that Mr Brass would arrive next day. May 24 1933 I caught two D & F White footed mice and sent back down immediately and went along to the large clearing to meet Brass I waited sometime and as he did not show up I started back but his porters came after him. I had gone very far as I stopped to shoot a bird that I could not fly. I met him with the male Blue, just the other side of the clearing. during the afternoon a native brought in first a large brown Phalanger and after gave him a knife for it and another some face plant to what out and returned with a young one which he indicated went with the? about a half hour they brought in two more D's & a golden brown Phalangers that I do not recognize. I got all but one skinned off did not clear and one of the mice with the help of Mr Brass. May 25 1933 I went with Mr Brass to the top of the first hill earlier returned as I wanted to finish the Phalanger's I caught a marguay in my trap which I do not know what it is it had insects in its stomach very fine cleared. It took all day to finish it animals with the help of, Rand. All day native from Mondo & Pans were busy all decked out to done with feathers, drums etc.
Page 67
May 25 1933 I took one or two pictures as they passed, there must have been a hundred of them. May 26. 1933 I caught a new rat (the white-footed mouse). Probably, a Melomys. Other went with Mr Bras over to the second acre above hill just short of its trail. I missed a large bronto-lell hawk. While taking a picture of the main range, I shot to the Big wood-shallows only one of which could be found. I descended leaving Bras on top. I came straight down. I met Brothy Handlons after a little way the other side of the clearing or had just a chat mostly in French. I met Mr Middleton delta clearing and we also had a chat as in going to the goilale County to get other maulers. I got back to camp about 11:15. May 27 1933 I caught only one white-footed mouse and saw no bird worth shooting though there was a number of birds around. I got back to camp about 9:45 and spent the morning drying thread and in clearing some shade from the last few days. The Police Captain came up with a lot of D'Orange men and cut down all the pandanus that was shading the trail. The men did not seem very pleased. I went out shooting, about 2:30 towards the clearing. I shot a Melanitta just a little way from camp. I met a native bringing a rat and so when I saw no bird when I got to the garden I turned back and was soon overtaken by a bunch of natives one carrying a young nightjar. I slammed the rat which I called Black-tailed red-white-footed mouse. After which I read the weekly returns which cause a rumble as the boys that had gotten the Phlangers though they should have some term set as well as it was Bras's birthday we celebrated by having two mugs of rum which made us all feel gay & so while I got rather a bit slowed at present.
Page 69
May 28, 1933 I had no luck with the traps. I shot two nut- patches off of a fairly large broad tree thus probably were six or more in the tree the rest got away as I had some difficulty in finding some of the two and the other two fell into a pandanus from what I had to shoot. I spent the rest of the morning writing notes and in a start on a letter to Mother. in the afternoon I took some pictures around camp and developed the role. I went out shooting after tea 4:00 P.M. and went considerable distance the other side of the gade. I shot a pigeon, and several other small birds. May 29, 1933 I caught only one white footed mouse in the heighest trap by the unfinished bower rich danceground so I picked up all my traps and moved them to the hill below camp. The forest there is less mossy, less steep and the trees are larger. A native trap is a Pseudocheir the same sp. as before. May 30, 1933 I caught seven Whitefooted mice four of which were so damaged by the traps that I did not save them. I spent the rest of the day skinning them. We had our last rain sooner until Adamson brings some more rain. May 31, 1933 I caught three mammals: a White-tailed red white-footed mouse, a whitefooted mouse, and a new sp. which I called Black-brown mouse. It was some what badly damaged and I made it worse by smearing a mess of the tail. Brass took some dead and I made some pancakes for lunch which were a great success judging from the way they were eaten. A number of Orang women brought in some "Kreind" (Yulotus) they served rather shy. June 1, 1933 I caught two "white-tailed red white-footed" mice and three "white-footed" mice. Shortly before lunch I took Hardy up on the hill to show him some Knobs that I thought might have been birds nests. I climbed the tree & cut them down we brought them back to camp and Brass said they are Hydrophyllum (Botanical specimen No 4093). I cut into it looking for ants as Brass had previously said that the knobs held ants. I found a frog and its eggs (which were put into formalin) and some white. While I took several!
Page 71
photograph of the frogs, the eggs & the plant. After lunch we had a fly out at a tree across the road that had another of the plants. The knot or belt was broken in the fall but I caught the frog that was in it. Rand later took in one or two others but found no more frogs. I skinned the two white-tailed red white-footed mice. June 2, 1933 seemed from the condition of the skeleton & mamma to be fast breeding as the skeletons gave a large food supply, there were two "allowing" mammals. June 2, 1933 I caught one & white-tailed red-white-footed mouse & three white-footed mice. I made up the first mammal there was bushy looking for frogs & formed quite a hunt with the help of a couple of boys in the fallen pandanas. After lunch we all went up to lower fir's dance ground and found that I had been there between my first visit in 1929 -- returned after lunch. Brass & I continued over the hill to the saddle and down to the Minoda trail. We lost my end a little way on to get a view of Mt. Morro & C.E. but they were in clouds & rain. We took several pictures of the pandanas grown. I killed a brown snake which I brought back & put in formal. On the way I noticed what turned out to be a giant nutmeg tree which I decided to get its fruit. It had been ringed to kill. June 3, 1933 I climbed Mt. Soga. I left camp about 7:45 and when I passed the large clearing I noticed that the mountains were clear of clouds though there was a little mist in the valleys & the sky was overcast not every inviting day. About a half hr. short of the clearing I stopped at a open part of the trail to photograph C.E. The mist was already rising & the clouds settling. At 9:40 I arrived at the Soga rest house. I made one false mess at finding the start of the nature track to the summit. The second try was successful and then I had to call my dog three times before he would come. The trail at first level and very distinct indistinct was through tractiny bamboo some what oldish
Page 73
June 3 1933 cont'd traveling but this was only for a few minutes then one climbed steeply for about 20 min... the higher one got its shot and moved among the trees until on top of the ridge the highest trees were scarcely [illegible] meters high and the tree's ground my mossy & springy & continued fairly level for a short five minutes then down steeply into the bombos on the saddle or valley bottom one then climbed steeply for a long twenty minute, to a saddle where I made a false turn, turning to the right but I quickly realized any mistake and returned to the saddle where I had the grey blaze tree the rock to remove about 1/4 out the bush about 10 cm. of moss before reaching the bark of the tree which was alive one continued S. for about 8 minutes up and down then up steeply for the summit at several flat places on its last grade I noticed where there seemingly had been Bower bird clone grounds. At 11:05 I reached the summit which was now treeless there being only low shrubs and the mission cross and the government stake thus were the charred stumps of two or three trees about 30 cm. through and the mission cross was made from the trunk of a dead tree with a cross arm nailed up and a cap one stood about 10-15 meters. All the mountains were covered and all Australia except south was covered with low clouds so one could see little though looking over clouds. There were about a dozen swifts circling around and I shot one dropping him at the foot of the cross. I collected a number of shrubs that were in flower, and had what lunch consisting of a tin of sardines and a slice of sour marmalade. Standard sort of which I gave to the boy. The barometer recorded on about 2604 meters and at 11:25 2615 meters. I left the summit at 11:35 as mist was coming in from the west that caused to shut me in. I returned to the Laforest house where I rested while while the boy cooled his brew. I left again about 9:00 about 15 min down slope at a large plateau like rock unfortunately I only found a valley about a half hour out it came onto trees
Page 75
June 3, 1933 Contd nearly so I put a pretty good face getting to camp nice frost at 3:30 luckily I had brought my jumper along so I kept my camera dry. June 4 1933 I developed the roll I finished yesterday and then went out clearing to get a piece of wood to make a staff for my new maps (appropriated from the bread plate) and the rest of the day was spent in making it. It came on to rain about ten so it was a good occupation as we were waiting for Coleman to come June 5, 1933 A note from Brad Coleman arrived just as we were finishing breakfast and I started immediately to meet him and met him about an hour late. He had been 12 days in getting here being delayed by one thing or another. He arrived on camp about 9:30 or 9:45 leaving again about 11:00 for Orange. The mules going on to the carriers staying here shortly after Coleman left I was chasing a fella into the Ecca Conua which had scammed when one of the Bamu carriers caught a Pseudochirus across the track. Yare who had returned to take four Motu-Motu carries to get food returned with only a little food. We sent two loads to Orange with Coleman June 4 1933 I spread out my mammals to dry & packed the developing box which was taken to Orange by the Moto-moto carriers who accompanied the Kiwias. The rest of the morning was spent in loafing right after lunch I hadred the mammals as it came on to rain. We were just settled down for a snooze when a note came with the Motu-moto carries who were with the Kiwias. Coleman had gotten carries from Uruna to take the luggage over and was awaiting us. We packed at top speed and in about a 3/4 hr I was under way proceeding the rest and covering the distance in the 10 hrs. Until supper we discussed plans and found packing. Not had a most sumptuous meal
Page 77
June 7, 1935 We got away shortly after seven and with 12 carriers and descended to the Walope in a little over 1/4th. The carriers were traveling slowly & stopped halfway down. The trail was through grassland mostly though there was some forest in the gullies. The river was crossed by by two hot logs about 15 cm. in diam. I waited for Adamson who was riding this far. It was a good trip behind the trail from this not finished for a ways. We we had to follow the water or and went straight up so that one had to cling with one eye closed but it did not bother very much the carriers though. Rand with his double loads will be at least difficult. After about 20 min we gained a undulating plateau which we soon left to dive again to the mission road which except for short gaps took us into Urana. There were several boys. When we arrived we found all the Urana carriers waiting for pay. And when Adamson called the interpreters 45 Waitakapoi goat shepherds came up to carry to Pareida after pay off & getting the names of the carriers which was quite noisy then we bought some Kaima from the women and the noise & confusion was even greater. After it was over we had quite a pile but only enough for one fed faith porters, about four more arrived from with parcels that I had cleared out. After a lot of shouting we got them back. Later 12 clear and when we went to bid only 30 odd remained. June 8, 1935 I got up at 4:30 & started shortly after 5:00 and came that all had bolted but we found 12 so it was then of course absurd that to go to the top with locals was out of the question so I wrote Rand to come with the Hewias and we started to establish a base camp at 6.55. I started in the lead following one of the carriers who knew the road. We tore off at top speed running down hill clearing up. I stopped him at the first village (15 min) as we were already far ahead. When Adamson arrived he told me to let them go as fast as they wanted to so witter off the trail was
Page 79
June 8 1933 Cont'd all ups & downs except when it crossed a swamp of which there was 103. just before reaching the last village we crossed a stream; the crossing was accomplished by the usual log but the difficulty had been added to by cutting the log in about 1/2 with way across so that one had to jump the two or three feet between. I had to give my gun to one of the carriers [illegible] within had a long pull up to the last village Ivulu where I again waited for Adamoon as I was not certain of the road. Arrived Ivulu 8:15 left 8:30. After our two stops we made camp at 9:35 in the Era valley at what is said to be the last level place. A number of native women came in hungry for salt, salt seems in great demand as they calamoured as [illegible] all sorts of trinkets to get some. After wanted paint so we had to take their names. After Adamoon went back a couple of natives brought in some native tobacco which I bought and found fairly good. Just at dark fourteen carriers arrived from my new buyers and I had a grand circus paying them off, they all until knives and thus wasn't enough to go around. A good illustration of there's contents of this clothing was when one put his into a milled box [Whiteprofosta] June 9 1933 Although I was busy most all day, the time seemed to drag on. Native women came in all day or ones & two bringing in 'Kaima' and I was right near the bag of Ama (salt) nearly all the time. I made a loaf of bread which was a success but that it burned on its bottom. June 10 1933 Natives come in in flocks with food and will word that Rand had left Urana and I was soon out of salt so as the 'Bush Telegraph' had informed me that Rowell got to Ivulu. I went down the trail to meet her. The rest of the day was spent in getting ready to leave for Hyobe camp. June 11 1933 Our guide did not show up so we started off without him. Rand was leading, took the most obvious trail and just as we had all gotten over the fence into a native garden our guide arrived in great excitement informing us that we was on the wrong trail. We soon what
Page 81
suspected that he merely was objecting to our crossing the garden as the native say that of an enemy or stranger goes through their gardens all its potatoes will rot. Our guide took us for a short distance through fallen timber which was obviously an old garden they we descended quite steeply to a stream, about the middle of which the trail went for a short distance then straight up two objects handy. We descended then sharply on crossing two more streams the trail was now gaining through virgin forest with tall trees. After the last stream in the way is all uphill till one gains an altitude of 2500 meters. At 2640 meters, two hrs by carries, one passes a bam shelter used by native in crossing the clivul, at 2380 one enters a mossy stunted forest. After the park shelter there are two or three very steep ascent ways trying for double lochs. At 2600 meters one enters the bamboo forest and there are three descents to cross small streams which with its bamboo moss & rocks are quite pretty. About 1100 I left my rear guard & hurried on arriving of Kydas camp situated on a tree fern dotted glass spurs about 200 meters from the forest. At 1745 to find everything half obscured by its heavy mist. It was only snow and again that we could see the forest or the opposite bank. Nand who had been leading went back when I arrived to help the carries & I stayed and made several unsuccessful attempts to start a fire & contantly had to call on the native guide to make it. Teki Kiwira straggled in till after 1730. We had just got comforted when about 35 carries (Kwias) came in with baggage gotten by lari after we left. Teki Adorons went down immediately taking their rice with them. Teki Kiwira decided that they would wanted to go down also so at 330 we started down. The trees were rather slippery and I slipped one or twice & the Kwias was running a long for fear of slipping we arrived at its bamboo shelter just as darkness was coming on and found two fires burning evidently the Arunas had stopped fire to eat. It became real dark just before the last stream and we had a grand time scrambling up the last rise and on tops I had to stop to get the torch light out of my sling to find our way through the fallen timber. We got into
Page 83
camp at 7:00 P.M. I found that Dari had spent all the European food up so I had to content myself with a couple of Kivia and some tomatoes augmented by some dry bread that we had left; this was also warm tea but no sugar. June 12, 1933 During the night some animal ate a good bit of the bread so that there was not much in the way of food. Dari got the Matu Motons to stay with us after a futile attempt with the Kivia and as I could see no need to remain below I started up at 9:00, and after a steady pull up arrived on top of 1:00 to find the Kiuma guide line I gotten 45 carriers to take us on. It was then necessary for one of us to go back down again to tell the Kivia to bring their swag out as I felt too tired to go Rand & Brass crew left the lot falling to Rand who left at 2:30 and the Kiuma had indeedly own few whites and they would us over looking inside our shirts feeling my feet when I took my boots off and watching every move. To have stopped them would have meant that they would have bolted. As darkness came on the left crossing to rally to a shelter under a rock. On the opposite bank to step climb up (500 meters or more) went little to thin as they went up at a good rate. June 13, 1933 We had rather a hectic start as the carriers rushed into camp and grabbed the best looking loads, one or two got two lighter too hungry loads. We got away at seven and discarded that crossed the Ero in crossing the Trilly suffered a severe bang. In 35 min we arrived at Middleton camp which has a better situation than ours being more sheltered. Then from there the trail went up and down crossing the Ero again where it had diminished to a small stream. Shortly after crossing the Ero we swung off to the Nor left leaving the main trail which went on across Pury Pass to Knuma. We went up a stiff fern dotted grass spur for about 10 min then turned through a stunted forest for a ways then down slightly and across marshy grass and then up a long ridge or devil. It was just after crossing the marshy grassland that I saw a large
Page 85
bird that flew from the grass with a loud beating of its wings & think it was possibly the grouse we were already passing through banks of mist. We tops its divide and arrived at its Bark shelter above the near Basin at 8:46. We got a fine view to the Southeast although it was occasionally obscured by clouds billowing over its divide. Mt. Yali (Kuoma called it "Farimo") bore 326 E mag & got some fairly good views of it (XXIV-34-38). My aneroid gave the height as 3067 meters, the carriers rested here to smoke & it was warm sitting in the sun. The trail continued as in Madellton description. The carriers started at its fold-holes & built a fire at 10:35. Most did not rest much but wandered off amongst the clumps of forest trying to shoot some birds with their bows & arrows. We left at 11:10 and soon began to climb a long spurs which got my mind some cold (4 hrs) after that there was a number of big downs to cross streams. We passed its hot hole & rocks at 12:00 one & at 12:10 arrived at its bark shelter. The nature did not want to go farther as there was several clods of stumps and that was lying mist. We were thus forced to camp. We were able to be protected by Frather Garrett's cabin but even it looked it was rather close as the ground was speedily wet. Shortly after we arrived and got our tea a bunch of women arrived with food and pondemonium in rainy suppression. The rain did not help matters any as very one wanted to get into the tent. We had an early supper and turned in directly after it. June 14, 1935 The morning dawned fine and we had a few views of the peaks from the edge of the ridge. There was frost on the ground as we started at 7:30. I again took Mt. lead. The Village policeman had pushed Brass away onto someone else (he had it on his own chair from Ktting Pass) and was carrying only an empty breechless twin. We retreated our steps for about 50 meters then climbed & not a through a narrow bit of forest just the side of which two birds flashed similar to yesterday's but they seemed smaller. We went on a short ways till we came to a forking of its road. Here the policeman wished the into one of its carriers that was with us.
Page 87
June 14 I took the left while the rest continued on the right and direct route to go ahead. We went in a S W erly direction across the plateau looking for pigs. We crossed two or three swampy places from its southern edge we got a good view of it at a glide. We then turned North and followed its rolling ridge. Dogs when about 1/2 way to go while I shot at, at long distance a brown animal flying away & miss. I got into camp about 11:00. The current drifted in till about 10 p.m. The rest of the day was spent in making camp & in changing sentries. We could only give them short rests because did not show up. Also a number left before being paid and the police man gave us their names. June 15, 1933 We slept until about 10:00 discussed the arrangements of the camp. I then took the rifle & the policeman and as word came that Rand was arriving I went down the trail about 100 meters and then turned West across the plateau following its ridges around in a circle to the bluff of the Ewoleni col. I saw nothing except one or two foot signs. I returned to camp about noon and found Brown & Rand counting ziplines. The Kiwi's returned about noon to the last shelter. The afternoon was spent about camp. The day was fine & clear. Last night there was a heavy frost & there was ice on several of the ponds. At 3:00 am, the thermometer read -7 C. June 14, (193) I set out 26 traps along the edge of the forest above camp and in the grassland. The rest of the day was spent in fixing camp. June 17-19, 1933 I caught a number of rats that seem to show a lot of variation but as far as I am susceptible to one species. I set the remaining nine traps out in the woods below camp. The weather during this time was poor with lots of mist although it only rained once day. June 20, 1933 I caught four rats all the same species and then went pig hunting. I had just gotten out to dividing ridges when I heard a lot of shooting in the direction of Murray farm. I presently saw
Page 89
a black dog cross a ridge and descend to a pond he would stop stop and look back presently a number of natives Kruames appeared the dog zig-zag back and forth at a fast bound. I through my glasses I could see its white fore feet and shoot in order to have a bushy tail which hung down between his legs. I waited when I was as sure I was not sure which way he would go... the closest native saw him and set out to chase him uttering a short "Woo-Woo". While waiting I took a photo of a Piglet. Presently he started to climb to cross himself. I was on so I hurried on but as I had to climb steep felt that could not turn him back me across. Shortly the natives appeared and commenced to demand some tobacco and when I showed them that I had none they produced some of their own and started to smoke in a sheltered spot where I got a photo. I waited a few minutes then started back to camp. We got as far as the red saddle on the ridge above camp when we heard some more natives shouting presently I saw the dog cross a small hill below and we started to head him off as we did so I saw a Marsh Hare sitting on a rock and was sorely tempted to try a shot at him. The dog ran in to "Wow!" Bored shortly boy who shot him so that I climbed to the trail and waited for them to bring him along. I got a photo of them coming along (XXXIV-17) with the garando Hill in the background. June 21 1933 We tried to get an early start but they went against it first the porridge tin was empty and cook did not call me also the bread was all gone so that I had to make pancakes. and I got hold of the frying pan that the dog had been missing for curry so that they started and would not turn. We got started at 8:00. We made a false start or rather we were at its being a walk, so I returned and got one but it did not carry us more than 50 or 10 minutes. We followed the route shown on Middlesons map. Bored shot 2 footprints gnu and we stopped after to look at its scenery. About ½ way we were caught by these Kruames who then acted as guides. We got to the top at 4:15. The feeling point was 8°8.74 and the temperature of the air in the wind + shade of the bavin was 6.75
Page 93
to the boiling point of the summit gives 3811 meters We stopped there to cook some Kaima in the coals and to rest and look for marine life under the rocks. But did not find any patritates and only one insect. [illegible] Brass caught a Toad under a log and both saw a leg and. We left again at 2:20 and went down to the Evelins Col where Brass and Rand went around to the left (Gary down) while I went on down the trail coming back at 3:46 about 35 mei ahead of them or a little more. I immediately made some bread and while it was baking made a flyway vest of my traps which held only two of its usual species. We had an early supper and turned in. June 21-24 1933 During this time the weather was not good though it rained only one day I shifted all but three traps into the wood in an effort to get another species. Five little traps for a set by the root of a tree set at edge of the grass land at its forest line set has only missed two nights and is holding one mammal and its first couple held two. Rand on the 24 set out some snares to try and find out what was making the rooting in the forest which are so numerous. The natives said that they were made by bird (thrush) but they seemed to deep & narrow. June 25 1933 The morning was grey with huge clouds, the first of its kind, towards noon it cleared and I went out to photo- graph but only took one or two as the mist came up. Rand caught a Paragale or an ower similar animal which from its build seems to be responsible for the rooting it so it must be rathus common. It had one anal earier in its mouth. It was a horror to skin as when I started to scrape it the hair came out so that I did not finish it. June 26 1933 The morning early was fine with patches of mist all day now 5:40 it is practically misting. I went a little way with Rand to see the method of setting the snares I then returned to camp & debated whether to move the traps to the Evelins Col but as the boy was not in,
Page 95
camp, I decided to leave them. I got five on in "Old Faithful" and my myself. I photo'd a true fern for Brass & [illegible] a green colada. I did not spin any set but finish the Projects from yesterday June 27 1933 The morning dawn misty & raw. I visited my trap and returned to camp, with four sets all the usual species. I was only on camp a short while before it began to fall misty rain which soon turned to rain. I spent the morning developing a film for Brass (xxix) toward noon it began to clear so that by 2:00 PM. I looked good enough to go out. I took the rifle and went clean into the lake, then NW fast and after spur trail S. out to the shale divide between the Victoria & Chroma, when I stopped for about 15 min to examine its country. I then went along its plateau & then down the steep side of the Jinnu R. watershed a little ways to examine a pig nest of grass. I found it fairly fresh, though it would not been new lately. I then climbed both up on a long clont towards the E until I came to the jacelada hunting trail from where I took some photo looking S.E. over the plateau & S.W. I continued on its trail till I came to the saddle between the 2 walls shade that is one just south of the W.S. a. E. trail. I took a good photo of the lake below camp. I could just see [illegible] and [illegible] Victoria. Detraged by following its divide around the lake to the Stone Pine Hill which forms the junction of it's spur we aroun with the clade. From this hill one gets a very fine view over the plateau especially to its E & S.E.. June 28 1935 I started out with Brass to compare photos as Brass has been having some difficulty I speeded up the nine traps in the woods by camp we took a picture of the edge of the fast in the glade. We then visited the remaining traps through the rock forest. I picked up its lost one. When we went on down its trail a little ways then down and out on a spur overlooking the Chirona valley where I got a good photo and we both took some photos of some flowers. We returned to the track and went down it again around it till where we could see the,
Page 97
"Sow Pen Hill" I failed to get a picture of a bunch of them on a fallen log or account of all the film being used. I went into the pass by the rocks on this side of the spur and returned to camp at 10:30. I started to make some dark & develop the film. The baking caused a bit of excitement when the shutter (notch) in which the boy had built his fire caught fire just got stored but it caused the developing & baking to cease suddenly we caused a busy hour. In the afternoon there was some mist but I went out hunting again going along the A.E. Trail as far as where it leaves the dead end of other (A.E. side) side of the Evelyn. After from there I continued straight on crossing its divide and descending until I could get a good run of the bottom land of the monomolog lake. I then return started back but instead of following its trail descends into the valley with the intention of climbing the Powell's Trail but found that the time was getting short so after visiting a forest in a hill in the middle of the valley on the way back to collecting the flowers from a tree I climbed straight up to the A.E. Trail where it leaves the divide at the Evelyn returning straight to camp. I noticed just as I was starting back a flight of swifts they were traveling north & in the direction of Q. E. & N. E. I did not see them until after they had flown on me but this must have been 12-15. June 29; 1933 I caught the usual four rats. V.V. and in one of his snares another strong to rat which I again with baker's bread occupied the whole afternoon. June 30; 1933 I caught only two rats but a young & in a red track in the paint. Both this & its last were moatling slightly. I made a apple pie which in spite of all turned out a success though a little burnt. Again I did not finish as I consumed a long time talking over Plowder future camp. The policeman left with its cendo form which I fell out yesterday.
Page 99
July 1st 1933 It is day was fine I went after visiting my traps which held only two rat-pig hunting. I went up across "low point hill" and then S E. down the divide Mt. 4. A. stood out very clear if I took several pictures. At top of a hill I found a mound of grass with a tunnel hole in the side about 40 or 50 cm. in diam to which I photographed. Shortly a short way down on other side I saw a marsh hawk but did not get a shot; at the same time I heard a quack like a duck so I went down to the lake just off the Sario side of the divide. I went down to the lake and saw a pair of female ducks murmuring nervously about in its center. After waiting for some time I shot at them killing one. I shot again with 75 but missed. I then tried four shots with the rifle before I left the lake entirely. I then climbed slightly on the Gabala trail down which I went a short distance when I again saw a marsh hawk possibly the same as before. It did not come close enough for a shot. I crossed one of the swamp tracts that form the back water off Sario and climbed the hill to the main trail at a point just before the fir forest starts. In the storm I noticed a lot of mound runs with grass and decided to move traps. July 2 1933 I picked up all my traps & set them out in the swamp returning by the way I had gone yesterday. I shot a pair of Coliculus browni killed out of a bunch... I got in to camp about 11.45 and waited some time after late for Brass who had gone to the other side of the plateau. Late in afternoon it came on to most rain. July 3 1933 I caught four rats of the same species as before. I had some difficulty in finding the sets & shot 2 traps all together. I did the same circuit as previous when in way to its lake I saw a marsh hawk and at the lake I shot the remaining duck that I had missed. I must have passed within [illegible] 3 meters of him & it was not till he passed the second time that he flushed & had returned to investigate a tall clump of grass. I got back to camp at 400 just as it came on to rain. While it continued to do off & on for rest of the day some
Page 103
The S. W. Slope of Mt. Albert Edward may for the sake of description be divided into two table lands or plateaus though actually the lower rolling plateau changes gradually into the upper rocky stony plateau. Both contain numerous lakes & marshes. It is evident that the plateau not so long ago was forested except possibly for thorn covered ridges which is evidenced by the fact that one finds scattered over the whole low land numerous fire scarred tree trunks. Along the edges of advancing native scrub in the lower country one finds tufts of forest. At the present time the ridges & exposed spots are covered with short stubby grass while in the gullies along streams & sheltered slopes one finds a long tussocky grass through which one finds numerous runs made by the muskrat. In the shade though occasionally in the long ones sees numerous patches of pig rootings. The greater number of old (before our arrival) though a few are recent. Dog droppings are fairly common. The forest is that situated with lots of trunks twisted & running at all angles most of free of underbrush and its grassy areas covered along which in fact stand the roots of trees as they run back of the muskrat. Also in the forest floor one sees small rooting holes (6cm deep x 15cm) sharply made by the Muskrats. Along the edges of the forest Kangaroo signs are common also there are numerous tree ferns in the glades too. There are a number of glades in the forest which one usually goes through there may often be patches plants & tree ferns, which are also common all along the edges of the forest. The roots & branch goes too and nearly more comes while the floor itself is sometimes covered with moss though more often it is cover with lianas stalks
Page 105
July 8/1935 I blew & rained hard all night & was very miserable. it continued untill about 10:00 so we did not get up for breakfast till after 8:00...After 10:00 I went out and visited the snares only Rond & B Boas stayed in the boys dorm it rather trying as they had not finished their fly in properly. After lunch the weather was a little cool not much better near the less we was out & set five more snares. In the evening the weather clear through the wind continued huge until very late. July 9, 1935 I visited the snares on the north shelfs & caught a wood-cock in one & had 2 others spring. I checked up the traps there were 3 rats of recently I sent night + 2 right befor. After lunch the weather stayed mostly cool so set out to set trap in the forest above camp wheres the new shows are. And Mr Adamson arrived saying he would be back this week. July 10, 1935 I caught three rats all the same & return & baked a loaf of bread. Mr. Adamson arrived just as we were finishing lunch. The afternoon was spent in talking over plans. We had our first real downing for a long time. The weather was good with few clouds. July 11, 1935 In the morning I visited my traps which only held two rats. As the weather was getting better so after lunch we took the small tent and went to Lake Gugaba in order to have the carries from the summit we had a fine view of the plateau from the outlet which falls very steeply shortly after leaving the lake. July 12, 1935 We had an excessively smoke night as we had to lit the cook boy (Adamson's) burn than a fire as he had only one blanket. The wood was half rotten... and after a meagre breakfast of tea & a small piece of bread we left at 6:15 and got to the summit of Quama at 4:40. There were lots of clouds down down so its sunrise was not much and we could not see the coast. I shed.
Page 107
see other page some difficulty in getting the water to boil for the B.P.T. and in the mean time I took some bearings & photos. The bearing are as follows: This was some mountains in the distance bearing 315° East of Magnetic North which looked as though they were on the Meridian of M.G. and looked quite high (14000 m.) Bismark pole 352.8 of Mag N°, one peak seen in clouds Mtn Victoria " 162 " " " Yule " 284 " " Garden on Stafa " 215 " " Red house " 222 " " I took a partial panorama in the section starting at Mt. Yule and swinging to the left. The led them Uerjus Dome & Mt. Danielson. At 8:00 I took the B.P. and at 8:25 we left for the S.E. Peak where we arrived at 8:50 I immediately took the B.P. and then took a snooze. Adamsen & Brass accompanied me while Brand went duck hunting to the two lakes formed by the fusin formed by the circle of Peaks. We returned to Central Peak (Garoma) about 10 where I again took the boiling point the results are as follows 5.75 Garoma June 21 at 11:06 A.M. B.P. 87.4 temp./gas onavis 4020 July 12 8:00 87.55 6.3 10:20 87.45 12.0 4005 Mean of 3/242.45 23.75 2/8025 reading station B' 87.46 7.9 4012.5 S.E. Peak B" 9:00 87.55 4.5 3994.0 Garanda June 14th station B. 88.4.225 10.0 B' Garoma mean monogrees B" S.E. Peak 478.91 ½ (T+T') = 8.95 or 9.C" B Garanda 494.82 ½ (T+T') = 8.25 or 8.C" B-B' = 17.59 B+B' = 972.05; c(B-B') = 16574 x 17.59 = 2891571.84 ÷ (B+B') = 299.95 + .300 metres above Garanda 300 + 3686 = 3980m. from S.E. B-B" = 15.91 B+B" = 973.73; c(B-B") = 16572 x 1591 = 242705.92 ÷ (B+B") = 249.78 + .270 metres from Garanda: 270 + 3680 = 3950 m. from S.E. We found the Kivia hut also though only one actually ventured near its cairn. We immediately left for the lake we sent the Kivia on ahead. I decided not to wait for tea as I had a lot of packing to do & I wanted to develop the pictures I had taken. I passed the
Page 109
"Kiwi's on a steep place and I heard one remember "Megoni" (Mangaro). I got back to find the Kiwanis in Camp so every thing was set for the morrow. We had two of them for their carrying yet & persuaded them to take us down. Caught a Porgletern a snowwhal was just left by July 13, 1933 The Kiwis got started first and were followed in about a half hour by the Kwanos. Finished up the remaining snows that were not tagged by the Hanckwanos & left my file bag one & had to return for it a short distance. I got to the head of the Kwanus by the Bark shells and the Kiwis were passing the whole when I was entering the basin of the Meradodoa swamp around which the tree shoots. Took a long turn just after the footholes & found myself descending into the floodbasin. I tried shorting the fell side by returning & got my knees rather scratches in going through a patch of timbers. I noticed quite a number of fresh & old pig tracks of on this spur. Caught the Kiwis at the Bark shells where they had stopped to rest. Shortly before crossing the Ero Glintes (Edomoo's dog) flushed a quail which I failed to send again. Started the climb up from the Ero to the Comas as I was a little tired and had passed every one thus being only one Kiwi & one Kwanu with me. Forgot to look at my watch when I arrived but I guess I had been in about 25 minutes which would make three hours for the trip. The rest drifted in for another hour. After lunch we made cheese and suppies. July 14, 1935 Adamson & I left at 7:40 and traveled slowly down trying till about two to get as far as the Urunt Rest home where we decided to stop as the boys were traveling so badly. We found that there was no food in any of the villages so it seems as though we will have to give up this side of the valley for a wet camp. There are one or two gold sets on in the first spurs on the Wanu side of Irula.
Page 111
July 15, 1933 We left Urucu at seven and got to the news about 10 when Adamson shot into prospecting with no results. lots of titanic iron and one or two patches of mercury. we got to Ononge shortly before lunch. The afternoon passed in talking over the food question with Father Dubuy July 16, 1933 As it was Sunday Adamson did not leave so I had the day to write letters and settling affairs with him. I decided we would have to go to Trafa where we would be on the road & nearer home. At dusk Adamsons mule boys came with cheerful news that all but five (3 heavy loads) of his pack animals had gone to Mondo. July 17, 1933) I accompanied Adamson as far as the saddle before the last of the Ononge village. I had to pack the saddle of the lost animal so that he could start with any of our supplies out. I was feeling off in the afternoon so I did little except sleep? July 18, 1933 I accompanied Father Dubuy to his farm until it was nicely situated at the foot of a huge new waterfall. I took several pictures and shot some tent prospecting around also took a short nap while Father Dubuy selected some timber. The place was unsuitable for our needs as one would have to climb nearly to Monda before getting primary forest. We returned for lunch & I shot off in the afternoon shooting a Nightjar in water, July 19, 1933 the morning passed in taking a few picture of Ononge Mission & an shooting. The afternoon was spent up shooting & packing. I forgot to write a label for the Wild fig's of with great enjoyment later. Father Kevin arrived with mule & tobacco some of which the first money was lost.
Page 113
July 20, 1935 I left Orange after breakfast via shortly before 9:00 and got to Urra about one. On the way down bird songs were quite noticeable or else it so struck me was so thenown. Black & white warblers were particular noticeable. Brownscrafts (c) were common and agreetively as I could not hit them, th one that I did hit went down in the tall grass so that it was impossi to find it. Carols were also quite noticeable especially near scrub bordering to longpa. I climbed over the hill instead of going through the scrub on the unfinished part just after the river, and while crossing a grass flat I flushed a quail unfortunately he flushed behind me and by the time I turned around he was sitting in the grass although I rushed to try get it failed to flush him or again. I read time most all afternoon except for a little while around 4:00 when a few old women brought some canna tayo & can. At sun set I went down to the point of the ridge back from Urra where I smoked a cigar while watching clouds as mist drifted up the valley, the air was quite clear that there haze and the drifting clouds gave a ever changing pictor of the steeply ridged valley. The Vanepha valley floor is quite wide 13 km or more wide & narrowing down below. Into this project an immense number of ridges; which on the Orange or western side are quite level, with edges coming down slightly to the river. While the gorge of Eastern has a number of greater proportion of these ridges are longer and have apparently been sheared off into flat tables so to speak. On both sides the banks of the river is steeply covered with scrably trees & shrubs mostly secondary; above this there is a wide area of glass where there are patches of secondery forest in the gullies and above this the heavy forest. I had a somewhat small amount of fresh pake dry bread and corn which while eating I wondered what would be said to a n.y. hotel proprietor if he dared to serve so tough an ear. Anyway throughout it seemed and I had fears for the morrow.
Page 115
July 21, 1933 I slightly overslept consequently I did not get away as early as I had hoped. The grass was getting wet and I was soon soaked from the belt down. The first two hours about was tiresome as I was slipping rather badly as a number of trail were missing. We did not stop till we got to the bush shelter where I stopped to smoke and try and get the two Kiwis change loads as my one with the heavy pack was lagging a little. We did not stop again until we got to the first grass clearing called Red clearing at least the carriers didn't though I had to stop about an hour to wait for its carrier. At the first clearing I had the rice taken from its bag & put with the blankets also they all some house that they had carried along. We got into camp around 1pm. The weather here was windy & slowly getting somewhat cold. July 22, 1933 The weather was the same as yesterday. I did not go out but spent the morning cataloguing the negatives developed of garinda in the afternoon I climbed a hill along that means got off the ridges across the valley. July 23 It threatened but never did rain all day. I set out all our rat traps and two snares. I started some behind camp and set the first three by a tree fern & laurod grassy. Next was just inside the forest edge, the rest set in three of the glen for a 10 meters. The forest somewhat mooy was low & thick that is although free from underbrush. One must wind one way through & another thing one notices in the difficulty of seeing into the tree tops, there's almost for by the fact that one hears a bird above you but you can not locate it. The afternoon passed in writing up notes. July 24, 1933 I got one rat in the set just inside its woods and strength setting traps went up the trail to the point where it descends to cross the Cr. One gets a fine view from here as one can follow the oak trees like writings.
Page 117
of both branches of the Er. M. Mach. th top of its valley is covered with Grifflinst grass The Eteeflras show of much greener than the grass. Miccoa brought linaphoeachium with a young which though wounded was still alive and I took a picture of it. It took me all afternoon to do the rest. In big masses positions yet. All stomach was full of a very fragrant leaf (green) July 25 1935 I got three rats one in the fork of a tree the fork was lightly covered with moss and about a shot 2 minutes after the ground back and examined the Poeglochirus gotten yesterday. Ground young of the At noon a band of Kaimu came by just as it was starting to rain with Kaina. They were mostly men but this was a few women. Matches went like wild fire though some of the women wanted wet. Brass took a number of pictures. Most moved off immediately tough a number stayed around to get bandaged I think they wanted the bandages more than the care of their bores as we saw one young boy pick the soul off a pore to get painted bandaged this afternoon passed in shinning. At rainfall of I an all afternoon some times quite hardly looked at. July 24 1932 The morning dawned fine but mist came of very early about 9:00 and it came on to rain a little before noon and has been raining so we had some time very hard. I caught three more rats and set out one new snake. Determined to copy and make up figures and made up its set from yesterday. And after lunch I developed Brances film & catalogue the rest of the day. I made up an 1/2 sheband picture of its rats also I baked a loaf of bread. July 27 1935 This morning was worst than yesterday. It was mostly from the start and came on to rain about 11:00. I caught only two rats though, one was much blacker than any so far and might possibly be another species though it was young not entirely adult. I had just
Page 119
"finished reporting the last trap when I heard e. Melanitta behind me so I retraced my steps but was unable to find it. I noticed that there was some lower trees about 4 miles south which accounts for the difficulty of seeing birds in the tree tops. I returned to camp and developed the film I took on the way down & at Orange. The afternoon which was rainy was spent in skimming the rate & in cataloging the film developed this morning a good number of which came out good. July 28 1935 Although there were a few clouds this morning till about 11:30 when it's mist came up, I made a quick round of my traps catching only two, one of which young sand was caught in the fake nature this time trap. I returned to camp and got Acto (Brasilia Boy) and started off the trail to Ruame with the intention of going up its Kadiche trail but could soon not find the junction. The trail after crossing the Rio and leaving the right hand of the Jauru trail junction and crossing in a steep def, a long branch of the Rio one continues up a spur beside a bit of forest on the left the trail then crosses rocky country but always upwards till it gains its pass which is flanked with a high hill on each side this I could see from its ridge top where I left the trail to go to a point of woods on its right. I collected a number of plants for Brasilia after which I returned and visited the forest on the opposite side of the trail before returning to camp where I arrived just as the rain started at 12:45. On my way up I shot a finch from a bunch of about a dozen that were scattered through the tree ferns or just after crossing the tributary I took a picture of it looking down where another stream joins and after climbing a little more to a point where I got a good panorama I took it in six parts. The afternoon was alternately rainy with patches of clear sky. I skinned the two rats I killed & a lot of bread which sent out from the lodge, goat. July 29 1935 The morning was fine so I took a couple of picture of the camp from its hill top. The first three traps in the woods each held a rat one of which formerly first woodland set, one of which has held a rat every night. I caught one other rat. I then went on a prospecting
Page 121
Trip to behind the bark shelter, the forest here is more open than on the point where the trees are & I noted on Pandanus tree. Just before going into the bark shelter one looks down into a deep valley departly another branch of the bro. It is more wooded than the main bit but the bottom is bare. I spent the whole afternoon sketching the rocks. July 30, 1933 The morning came in rainy wind with every prospect for a miserable day. Rand was with us to look at some buds just that I had seen, all of which proved old. We saw a rainbow that clearly stated in camp. The weather improved though it has remained blustery. I caught nothing and as my knee was still hurting I spent the day around camp. About noon two Kuanas arrived with the news that mos were coming tomorrow with "mono" Kiana "Kainia." July 31, 1933 The weather in the early morning was fine but it soon loaded and about noon it came on to rain. aforel mama a little after. We heard a rather I heard the Kuana's coming about 8:30 or 8:45 but they did not arrive until about 10:15. They brought big loads about [illegible] 15 or 18 kg and after a while for Rangi to intercede with them as they wanted more or forgot what they brought, 4 loads for a fathom each 30 cm knife $2 for a 40cm. It was big pay but it solved our food problem. & let us keep two nice Kuanu boys in camp. I caught only one rat in the first forest set, the "old beautiful trap". The afternoon passed in sketching all over & dressing my leg and in reading. August 1st 1933 The weather & no time during the day looked auspicious. there were clouds hanging about all day though it never did rain. I picked up all the rat traps which held four rats. I then hobbled down across the river and set all but five in the woods along its trail to drive before my ankle became too soar. There weren't too many signs and the prospects of swamp decent looked as good as above. Nowe that a Proteus a different species from Garuda. J7, at 1445, had a number of parasites.
Page 123
return the leg, a very small one, on it was a number of ticks they were put into a salt vial as was a flea but it jump out; its stomach contained, a number of small roots, a section of large worm & other large animal matter. It was mostly bread-matter, its roots probably only being accidental. Sivi with his dogs contrary to all expectation brought in a great haul of Dacopsias, two Chalargas & a Pseudochinia? With Ronald's help I got everything cleaned but nothing made up: all had finally green vegetable matter in their stomachs; the Dacopsia was probably grass. I photographed the Dacopsia. August 2, 1933 The weather all day has been far from good it starts cloudy and remains so except for now two shafts of sun shine and about noon it come on to rain which it did off and on till sundown. I had not go out today but stayed in to finish the manuals left over from yester-day. In the morning I developed the film finished yesterday & took a picture of a portion of the lower layer skeleton to show its shape, 4 oz of the sporeta of the Dacopsia Chalargas & Pseudochinia caught perfectly also finished the Pirigots which was just-finished. After lunch Sivi bought in a Jaglossome which accounted for the afternoon. August 3, 1933 The weather was cloudy all day though it did not rain till about seven in the evening and it is now (8:20) pouring quite hard. I developed a film taken by Mr Brass on which there were some good shots of Ruamas strongly raining. All the rest of the day was spent on the Jaglossome and then I hear only got it a little better than 1/3 from cleaned. Sivi caught another Chalargas & the trap held on rat. Trilago made new instrument that is swinging around its head on a fairly long string extended to a 2 meter std. August 4, 1933 A driving rain all day until after sunset when it cleared and was fine. I spent the entire day working on the Jaglossome; about 3:30 I sent Howlito Trilago to Hunt traps and they brought in a new species of rat (red wood mouse?), ground rat & a young Vampire that was killed by a flow on the head of a swinging
Page 125
rat trap. Did a quick job of the wood mouse + female it before supper, from the condition of the mammae it was breeding or at least was suckling young as all four mums had young with its name overall abdominal vig [illegible] August 5th, Rand & myself had a grand time after supper chasing an owl that was waltzing first in the clumps of trees by camp then in the woods above camp. Rand got a shot as he flew over to the musical August 5, 1933 A fine morning and a good afternoon only short by one or two last showers (I didn't shoot all day finishing it about six). I should the Perogate of yesterday. Rand shot from a tree a Paramele. I have not seen it but of adult it certainly seems another species from that of Pinnacole. He shot it about 5 meters up a big tree. I got only two of the common wood sat. August 6, 1933 A fine day all day. In the morning I climbed the hill for the first time since the gas losses came on. After lunch I also climbed myself for the first time since I won't mention when (orange I shone off in a basin the last real wash was at Drula before Mt. A & E). After lunch I went out up the trail to photograph and took a long panorama of the Er's Basin and then wandered around in the grasslands and took my lenses at own spots that I could not hit. On the way back a gaudy spidred me so I did not get much anything. I developed a film that Brass just finished and it was a coker and show even him the advisability of immediate development. After supper I skinned the two rats got to day. August 7, 1933 The morning was fine and until mid- afternoon when it sprinkled some. About 10.00 o'clock after I started down the Urnn trail to take some photos. I got took several of the zoo just below the crossing and found to my regret that I had no more film with me so I left the camera there and climbed to the wood on the other side into which I only went
Page 127
a little way as I was wearing sneakers on account of my ankle and could see no great reason to get ready for nothing. I got back to camp about 11:15 and immediately developed the film which turned out good. This afternoon was spent in the one that I wrote a note. August 8, 1933 The morning equally with the same afternoon though more windy. In the evening it was flouring a gale. I spent most of the morning sketching up my table and in climbing the two rocks with Fred & Jane of mammals this [illegible]. This afternoon in reality John Maxwell collected forms. August 9, 1933 The morning clouded rainy & blewed so fast no one went out. We sat around for the greater part and talked of our future plans. In the afternoon it improved if the sun came out so that I ventured out to the ridge of overlooking the Rio Bonito ranchero and but was forced back immediately by rain which started as soon as I reached camp. It has been doing all some our sand a rain shirt. August 10, 1933 It blew a gale all night with driving rain, which to get up at dawn to fix the tent. The rain let up about 10:00 but the wind continues maybe perhaps not as high as in its night. It is now raining. We all spent the morning in bed reading & writing letter to Mother (not finished). About 5:06 the senior Trafa was very pretty as was the coast a little after 6:00 - Nord ventured out into the afternoon & wrote my traps which held one woodrat Brass & myself about the afternoon as the morning. It has been about the coldest day we have had 47 9 C maximum August 11, 1933 Another stormy day like yesterday though we had a little sunshine about one. Did this same yesterday no one went out. Aug 12 1933 Just another day like yesterday very tiring & had to put my mammals over a fire to get them dry. Nothing else doing except plenty of rain & wind!
Page 129
August 13, 1933 The weather was bad but this was less humid we added every thing but the expected Kevin did not arrive August 14, 1933 Patiently expecting to Kevin or rather impatiently we surmised all kind of accident with weather in the morning was lovely though by noon the sun was out and we had to fire afternoons. August 15, 1933 Mr. Brass left with two Mota Motuan School boys at 7:00 to find out what was wrong I went up to the summit of the hill above the Ero crossing. I took some bearings which are as follows: Mt. Ta'afa summit 2.25 E of Mag/North " " next house 2.31 " " Ramp 2.49 " " Murray Pass 6.0 E " " Waterfall 7.0 " " Mt. Albert Edward (Central) 2.5 E " " I then moved to the hill by camp and took the following: Mt. Ta'afa summit 2.24 E of Mag/N. " " next house 2.31 E of Veg.N. Monto Police Station 2.03 There is a gross error in one or the other of these readings but I did not have time to rectify them as Kevin dragged in between noon & two o'clock and about four thirty Menas arrived (chiefly from Isavula village). The rest of the afternoon was occupied in packing and arranging loads. We celebrated by two jugs of O.T Whiskey. August 16, 1933 We got away well out too much confusion. The weather did not look promising with mist only a little above us. I left at 6:45 and got to the clearings 7:30 and the hark shelter at 8:35. It was about 10:30 & 11:00 when I fell in to Isavula village with about 10 of the carriers. I rested about 10 to 30 min and then continued on foot took me a terrific long time to make it as I found the going hot & tiring so it took until about one before I got in. I was the first in the rest straggled in till after three.
Page 131
August 17 1933 We got away about 7:50 from Numa and traveled right along till we got to the river where we waited for perhaps a half hour while the Kwanus & most of the Kanuas caught up. We then started the climb to orange some what slowor then before finally when the Kwanus stopped to rest we left them and went ahead that is Adamson & myself and arrived about 11:00. Rand & Brass were behind collecting on the road and got in about one. The afternoon was spent in o- phaning August 18 1933 Adamson & I left with Omama, a male & five of the mission horses as well as my 12e of the Knuas. We proceeded so as we did not get away til 8:30 on account of having to wait for breakfast. We soon caught up with the horse. Then all went well till we got to the new garden during the side of Nirode where we were delayed on account of having to cut thru fallen trees from across the road. Then we had to select one of the horses two or three time so we did not get in until two. After lunch we went to the saddle & picked a camp sight & did a fly off for the Knuas. We found Brother Jeandron at Stofo on his way to Orange. August 19, 1933 The day was spent in making camp & in moving our baggag to the camp sight. About 4:00 we had a heavy hail storm with the hail about thrice of peas. The Knuas were quite excited & asked numerous questions more than I could understand. Yesterday one of Brother Jeandron's male boys shot a Dorkofee, which I bought from him. The meal I had to returned to Orange in charge of his boy. August 20 1933 Adamson left for Onongs to get the rest of the supplies and I spent the day around camp arranging supplies & what not. Aug 21, 1933 In the morning I developed a film and Jeandron & all arrived just as I was finishing processing. Having made excellent time 4 1/2 hours. We had Brother Jeandron for lunch & supper. He certainly enjoys a drink and gets rather talkative especially on the subject of the mission. With which he has been for nine years.
Page 133
August 22 1933 Short Grand camp Brother December left for Monro with his horse & burro August 23 1933 In the morning I put out the traps starting at the edge of the forest & running up the ridge toward Tola. The first set or in bamboo entangled forest while higher the forest is fairly open. August 24 1933 The traps held four rats of two species all caught in the two lower sets where the bank is thick. After visiting the traps I continued on to the summit of Tola where I found Mr Brown. I took numerous bearing starting with Mt Albert Edward & striking through west to the south, ie. Mt Gula. Mt C. Mt "D" Mt Albert Edward Western & Central Peak Mt Gula Mt "E' Mt "B' Mt "D' the bearings are as follows all East magnetic North: Mt Albert Edward at 49° Mt "B" 6° Mt D 331 Mt E "Alberts 325 Mt. "A" (Pretty) 25 Mt C. 355. Mt E 375 Mt Gula 308 I made the top by aneroid on arriving 2732 meters & shortly before departing 2765 meters. August 25, 1933 I got only two rats again in the same sets 4 of the same two species. During the afternoon the male that had gone to the coast for more rice & a few supplies arrived bringing more traps & mail mainly second class. August 26. 1933 I set out two steel traps on trail crossing the track of the ridge & also 12 more rat traps. I caught only one rat in the lowest set. Adamson left for the coast getting away a little before eight. Afterwards I went out shooting & only boarads Monro a little way beyond the slide. I shot at a frog otherwise the only thing seen was a fair size bird but flying over track or rather it seemed to glide.
Page 135
August 27, 1933 A big day in Trak although all of the same skins. I got six rats two in the mist and four in the highest also a large rat was caught in the upper steel trap, long-tailed rat it is a new genus to the collection. I think the entire remainder of the day skimming some of which made rather dusty by skins as Christmas" or rather rough. Aug 28, '33 A lean day only on in the lower trap. Of finest setting out at the new traps. Directed the upper lab but saw few mammal sign & observed my Marry Posi tree fall and also a film that had been out. Also taken by Rand of Suva, Auckland & Rona Atolls Papua. August 27, '33 A still leaner day in Trak nothing at all I noticed for the first time those lower bird clams grounds all close to getting. It seems strange that I should have missed them before; they seem fresh, one seemed in the process of making. Near the shore a strang note it sounds some what crawls as not. I could only get a fleeting glimpse of the birds or pair. I was a bird of about the size of the American Robin & heavy fast flyer. After land I went along a road towards Mondo gone as far as to the other side of the hickles where I got into the ridge trail along which I returned. On the way I saw Two native dead falls apparently set for Bowe birds that both were similar in construction having two parallel fences about a meter long and about 30 cm apart made of sticks stuck into the ground, the dead fall was made of three or four sticks lashed together. I could not make out its method of setting as far as I could make out its look like this with the near fines fully removed [scribble] scraped in its distance from the other. [144] stick held by with lashing on one end, and faked stick. dead fall this was in sad case & done ground nearby. Mammal signs were more numerous than on the top ridge.
Page 139
September 1st 1933 The early morning was grey but by nine or ten it cleared and the sun came out though it did not last as by eleven the mist came in and there was a heavy shower in the afternoon. I got a new species of rat "Stiff-haired Rat" under an ant passing under a root of a tree. September 2nd 1935 Only two rats in my traps. The morning was fine though about noon it clouded and by five it was raining. Returning from my traps I met one of Father Dubeys carriers and from him I understood that he was coming today Sunday though at lunch we figured that it would not come til to- morrow. But about four a boy arrived saying that he was at its not home. So I immediately went round and invited him to supper luckily the rain stopped before we return to camp. He had though Martino his shooting boy for us to go. September 3 1935 Father Dubeys got pressed about 7:00 on his way to Kabuna to take some photos thus for the mission & got some iron roofing for this Wartape church. It was an great day for Whitefootd mice and I got six and nothing else. September 4 The weather was just it began to rain about noon. I only got two rats. I developed a skin taken by Mr Brans which turned out fine. September 5 1933 So we decided to go to Mara to see what was there. I had the boy fetch up all the rat traps which held only one white footed mouse. I tried to find the animal that I shot at last night but failed, with I did not hit him or he made off through the their trailing thorns. September 6, 1933. We got away about 7:00 for Mara. I did not at first follow the main road but went by the old native track along the ridge that was originally the route to Orony. My purpose was to avoid the stiff grass along that trail. I got in one just below the first neat clearing of iron-wood. The trap was in a mossy track going down from the main tree. The altitude of the neat clearing was by aneroid 2516 meters which, Correlates to Graha comb B.P. give 1490 and the clearing with
Page 141
the old park shelter 250'4 corrected 2479. I came down the trail to the point instead of going along to the saddle as I wanted to get some photos of D E from the side. The going was good until we struck the section that runs along the south side of the ridge where for a half hour the going was all mud & water very trying shortly on arriving at the saddle where the road crosses to go back gain we could see the unfinished new road that I am going to follow the north slope as though steps it is dry. Shortly after I caught up with Rand & Bravo who were trying to chain Dubug's horse which was traveling on its own had to tow him back but they did not succeed for he ran ahead a little time then turned & charged past me. We continued on arriving about 11:00 at Maw which is about half way to Mondo from Caga. The altitude when I came was 2258 corrected 225 meters. We did not finish lunch till almost lunch 1:00 PM after which we all went out & got out & shot traps for as been lying in fog the rain with which had cleared up in the next. After which I examined the Pygmyote with a got in the morning. After supper it cleared & sky trees came out so I went shooting down the road toward Mondo going about 21 minute walking time. On the way out I saw nothing except species of which there were a great number counting as many as 17 more than one and also bats of which there was usually one in the light most all the time both coming & going. Shortly after I started back I caught the eyes of some animal that shows very large & bright larger than any eye I had seen so far. I shot at it and it disappeared. When I was loading I caught the gleam of another at which I promptly shot not having moved my position. As the trees were in a thickset of twisting bamboo I did not look for them but marked the place. A little guy Chalange scuttled across the road and up to bank I shot it when it gained its bush unfortunately blowing a good hole in his side unfortunately I had not noticed that he was going up a small tree as I could have charged shells. It illustrates the tenacity of life of the Chalango as it was there 0.4 minutes before he died down with the scraps overcame several. Just after arriving at Maw I shot another animal which got his tail caught around something and did not come closer (Note 1)
Page 143
September 7 1935 I first picked up the 18 kills that I got out before the rain drove me in getting, I got one white tailed red whitetail moose and three similar but smaller called "Reddish grey moose". After which I went and looked for the two animals that I shot just but could only find one while the boy was looking I took some photos of Little Auga valley & Muncle from the trail. Returning to camp I skinned out one of the rats while "Christmas" was at cutting the tree down to get the other which was a Pseudaxis. When he returned I had him skin the Stalangeri while I skinned the large Pseudo-chirin. We had an early lunch and returned to the Trofa camp immediately afterwards. I followed the same route as before in descending and caught in the trail in the main nature trail a young Dacofasi. I got caught in the rain and arrived somewhat confused. I took a little over three hours to come up. The rest of the afternoon was spent in cleaning, Note 1. September 8 1935 After a hurried round of my steel traps which held nothing I returned to camp and spent the rest of the day making up the animals skinned yesterday. September 9 1935 Again I visited its steel traps which held nothing. I stopped at the lower bank once ground and after cutting one or two trees tried a photo but after which I returned to camp and put out a line of traps below camp and between here & the lower lake. After lunch I developed the film & finished this morning. The four bad dance pictures were a failure not enough light. September 10 1935 I spent most of the morning clearing trees to get a photo of the power; this time & hope something will show. I saw a hawk with long narrow wings & notable tail circling over the forest. I got nothing in my traps and was starting out in the afternoon to clear away another bow trail once ground when Mesa too brought in a Dacofasi unfortunately he blew shot into it by 4 o'clock so I left Christmas to skin it out & went to look at the power which I located after turning on wrong turn. I decided to wait till the morning before clearing way. I noticed on the way one or two good looking trail of animals. Also
Page 145
as I was I saw a flock of six nuthatches just before leaving the main road September 11, 1933 This morning early was clear though about 8:00 it started clouding again about 4:00 or a little later and coming on to rain about one o'clock and stopping about 4:00. I walked the trail along the ridge this continued on to shed a couple of small tops in the trail notes yesterday after which I went down to the lower bird dance ground and cut one tree and started on another when the axe handle broke off at the work short. Returning along the road I noticed three bear tracks and found Brother Jeandron in camp we had him stay to lunch after lunch I skinned two rats that Christina brought in one of which appears to be a different species though it is very young as the bones were very soft it is No 1515 Olive Grey Rat of the teeth were not yet descended. We had Brother Jeandron for supper and after a couple of O.P.'s he became very talkative. September 12, 1933 We were caught in the trails below Camp 6 this morning as usual was fine and it remained so until about four when we had a short shower followed by mist and clouds. After supper I went a short way hunting but the mist was too thick to see anything. September 13, 1933 We awoke to the pleasant sound of rain but about seven it stopped for the rest of the morning though it stayed cloudy until two when it came on to pour which did not last for the rest of the day. I got the names for the war clubs like those I found at Urean which is 'Grevi'. Martine shot a Spotted Margays Cat below camp dragging mention of side whose stomach contents was only a few feathers. Father Garreau came in with Brother Jeandron and we had them to supper. Father Garreau came up to help Father John to new Father who is coming with the mails carries who as perusing the roof for the Waitalo Church. September 14, 1933 The weather was similar to yesterday minus the early morning shower. I got back about 10:30 after taking two snaps first towards Mt Victoria and then the tilled fields beyond the second showing to Waitalo.
Page 147
About 11:30 the first of the mission carriers arrived & stopped to give us a once over. They were led by a fine built man with a good load (about 7 rifles). & got Fort Sanders as they stood around looking at us. Maturo shot a Peromela, it had 3 going in pouch they was about 5mm long, they were not saved & I forgot about the. We had Father Garreau again for supper. Maturo brought in a Peromela. September 15 1935 A poor day every which way. The morning cloudy with rain coming on about 11:00 just after I got in. Father Bohn arrived about the same time & we gave him a couple of cups of whiskey. It was somewhat tires and a little feckup with the Waitapis calling them thieves etc every thing that he could without actually swearing. During the afternoon a good number of their porters brought some of their own yams around for face paint we felt rather guilty buying it but still it is a very welcome change to rice. We had both Father to clean, they more or less suspected what had happened & thought they blamed our boys. One of the steel traps was sprung & caught white hair. September 16 1935 It threatened rain most all day. Rained off & on most all day though. I did not visit traps, which field nothing. One trap was sprung & set by it I found a large brown feather which has Rand puzzled as to what bird it came from. Only one white footed mouse was caught & was not saved. Maturo shot a Peromela which I was unable to get it was on the ground not far from camp. After supper at dusk both Rand & myself had a try at some night fowl that was flying over the post but both missed. Rand shot two but now took to cooters. After supper as it was fine out I went shooting. Just the other side of the two slide I saw a Peromela below the trail. I located him by the noise of his feeding. He was sitting up using his fore foot to feed himself apparently bamboo shoots. I shot at him but sharply missed as I did not find him though I did not look very hard as the going was
Page 149
exceedingly rough as there were hidden logs as well as bambs I went on I shot a Pseudochirus from a tree near the stream, I did not feel for him but felt sure from the glow & size of his eyes that he was a Pseudochirus. I went as far as the point with Mr. Barshelter; On the way back I heard the same marks cord me at the point but could not locate the Dacophs but I heard him go with a single swoosh, by the god this was the smallest in th bush by the road probably of some animal making off September 17 1933 I returned in the morning to look for the animals and last night as I guessed we were unable to find the Dacophis one the other was a Pseudochirus & with one young in the hand which was hidden after during photographed with its adult. I got nothing in the first trap and only two sets of which the white tailed red white-footed mouse was the only one caught. In the afternoon after finishing the map I developed a film taken by Mr Brazza which came out good again at dusk we had a little excitement during which Rand while my eye on a night journey to the colation just previous I shot one but he went down in the bambs so I did not try to find it. September 18 1935 The morning was partly cloudy up till 11:00 when it came on to rain which continued off and on till sundown when it was cloudy & misty. Rand caught in a trap at the junction of the old & new recent tree a spotted marsupial cat, it had in its stomach what was full a foot of a white-footed mouse several bird tongues. a small shot which seems to point to towards a carrion eat, when I came down back from my trap I sent Christmas after the night jar which he promptly found. Some how or other I managed to spent the entire afternoon skinny & making up the maps. Shortly by 4:30 p.m. I went off shooting, I got a shot at a snipe but missed. Shortly after another made by whist me. They seem to have regular rates of flight.
Page 151
September 19, 1935 A fine morning but not luck in mammals only or rat. During the afternoon we had several sharp showers. I in the first part of each some of the rats that were dry. About 4:00 I went out intending to try and get some pheasants for supper but I saw a large hawk or eagle sail over the forest so I want to try & shoot it but never saw it again after it disappeared from sight of the camp. Neither was there any luck at duck when the snipe refused to fly over & got shot though it tried it over the boys & got wounded. September 20, 1935 The weather held good all day; the morning was fine and its afternoon we without rain though it tryed to start about two. We were awoken at about 3:50 by the howling & barking of a dog in one of hands trails in the main trail. While she did not howl then anything else he certainly did bark a few times. It was quite savage on going at everything in sight. She does not differ internally at least from the village dogs with which she is undoubtedly crossed. I finish a film in the morning & develop it in the afternoon. It was only fair that this day's road in from Murr about 10:30 or 11:00 & we had him to land & supper. I got after supper I shamefully missed twice the snipe & Band missed for a Syncornus faguelena. September 21, 1935 A fine morning & early cloudy early afternoon with heavy rain coming from the N. at 4:00 & lasting till about even. Again no luck in mammals on white footed mouse not heard. After lunch I went shooting down the road but saw nothing except a swift with shortley. I got back just by the rain. After supper I again went out down up the road but saw nothing. September 22, 1935 The south was the same as yesterday. No luck in mammals and no bird. In the afternoon went a short way up the main trail. I made a fine shot at a tumbler pigeon than misses this or four times at swift.
Page 153
September 23 1933 I finished up all the steel traps and spent the rest of the day packing specimens and various other things. September 24 1933 I did not go out but finished packing specimens. September 25 1933 Adamson arrived about 1 o'clock having been proceeded by Brother Jeandron so we had quite a gathering for our send off. September 26 1933 We got away with more confusion than necessary considering the number of time we have shifted at 7:45. We had a rather uneventful trip to Mondo. The 3rd of an improved road was very muddy then and we got caught in a heavy shower about one o'clock but it did not last long nor did this less we got wet & a mug of rum tasted good when we arrived. September 27 1933 An easy but aggravating day of four hours as one could see Belavista from every point which makes it very aggravating also it was some what warmer than we were used to having it. We started in at the mission station at St. one to finish up mail for the coast. We spent about an hour sitting there beds & in consuming a cup of cups of coffee. We had rain during 4s afternoon. September 28 1933 An easier day yet only about three hours including the hour half spent at Mafule consuming coffee & mail also the usual gossip. The afternoon was spent in arranging & checking supplies. Gallo or Rangiroa is 74 off on his down the road from Mafule though we are loading our specimens Mafule. September 29-30 1933 Spent in writing letters & in making camp. Last night [30] I went out shooting but did not care in bringing anything back, shot a small case of cany, but was unable to find it. I shot a frog by the forest bed & was on the ground & its eyes show brightly!
Page 155
October 1st 1933 A number of natives came begging for potatoes (funds?), Honarai). I forgot to mention that yesterday several Higuans conveying bread-fruit & oranges, also a number of birds & three rats (probably house-mouse), were brought in. The natives seemed disappointed in not getting a big knife, for as we only gave them a hand-hatchet. Grandfather having thrown a knife for all birds. I went out shooting again & got a Petaurus & Phalacro who was following me shot a Phalangist he said there were two one getting away as he had only one shell. The Petaurus was falling from a baby second growth tree on a grassy point. October 2, 1933 Coleman left for the coast about 8:00. I went hunting for the ear that the Brothers at Mafulu told me about but did not find it. I saw few mammal signs though it was mostly second growth. that I was in the afternoon we started climbing up after supper I went up the road & shot in a low second growth tree a Phalangist he seemed yesterday he had a young with him which left his but I could not. I hung her from a nearby vine & put the young, which was about 20 cm long in the pouch. While I was up the trail a dog succeeded in dragging it down and badly mutilating the skin & I could find no trace of the young. October 3, 1933 I set a line of rat traps just beyond the first stream going up hill down the trail. There were a few but not many signs. October 4, 1933 No luck in rats though I caught a ground bird in a trap. I put out most of the remaining traps about the rest. In the afternoon as far as the first stream then a little more than half way to the river. The trail passes through a tall open forest & is fairly level. There was lots of fruit on the trail but I saw no signs of it being eaten by mammals last night. In the afternoon I went out and located the ear that the Mafulu Brothers told me about. I did little
Page 157
more than take a look around! The main entrances were partly closed by nature though I managed to crawl in and found that it opens into a large chamber after which I explored around for other openings & almost fell into one that was covered over & into another & went going down a hole in the ground then wading up the stream a short distance there were a number of swift one of which I caught in my hand. October 5 1933 Paul Brace & myself went back in the morning and did some more exploring see opposite page for sketch of openings (1) Opening No 1 was not disturbed after coming back from Nos. 6 & 7 nor was a good way into nos 2-3 both of which open into the same chamber 3 dropping specifically & therefore an asable. One crawls for about 4 feet before coming out onto a ledge down which one scrambles out slopily floor for from 10 to 15 meters there was a passage to the N. A. E. which was not investigated as we followed the larger 3: E (left) it quickly descended to a stream which I would judge was running in a direction to subtend an angle of a few degrees less than 90 The passage upstream was too narrow to follow so we waded down stream. We were soon forced to leave it as it came to a pool with no apparent visible opening & undoubtedly going under a rock situated a step or two we climbed into on another passage that went slightly up we soon emerged into a small chamber but at the bottom of which was a pool of water which took blue with its depth and was probably quite so as our water usually look much shallower than it really is. We turned back thus though we could have gone on through another passage, as our candle was getting low. In No 6 we went up stream about 20 meters further as we would go we found a number of swift met some with young others with eggs and some just finished. Paul collected several. In No 7 I went down stream to where the stream went down a falls I could not see how far as at the cave was too narrow to go any further
Page 159
October 6-11, 1935 Busy at various things the weather during this time was on the good in the morning and in the afternoon showery; the 10th & 11th were excellent in that the mornings were cloudy & misty. On the 7th I put 2 traps down the main trail; the first 3 on a grassy spur (which could not get on the 3 successive nights).. and the rest in its woods. On the 9th I went out shooting after supper and shot a Petavrus from a tree on a grassy spur. It was openly feeding on its fruit so I brought a specimen in. Brass says that it is the same as he collected at Wunu No. 4806. P.O. Kides arrived on the 8th and slept the night with me, he was quite nice though he would not often eat very much. A number of women visited us bringing a good supply of yams, sugar cane, pandanus, more tomatoes, bananas, cucumbers & bread fruit so now we are living off the fat of the land! October 12 1935 A fine day with only a very slight sprinkle. I went up to pick up the traps that were all filled with the field of Pigeon Pigeon as Christmas was brought out by the last two or three days with a bad cold so did not know when to put them out I left them in. I found the owl I shot last night. Some Dew-Dewa people came bringing a new Phalangar, some Gladyota. I bought a lime pot with a rather pretty carved lid made of a cassowary's leg bone. October 13 1935 A similar day to yesterday. On spite of the fact that it was Friday the 13th the Day passed without incident October 14 1935 We all went down to the river feeling and got about 30 fish out of the pools. We went down the grass ridge; down the main trail from here. The trail was fairly good very well used. We had lunch soon of fresh fish. Also Brass & myself went in of swimming to pick up some of the fish. We came all after lunch & all got caught in the rain which it did pour hard.
Page 160
Report of Patrol No 1 of 1933/34 made by S. G. Middleton P.O. & O.I.C. Kombaai District to Omonge, Kombai & Omali Districts, Wharton Ranges and top of Mt Scratchley, Owen Stanley Range and top of Mt Victoria thence via the Koiari Districts to Port Moresby and Gule Island. Object: General patrol of inland districts of Central Division. It is my firm opinion that any energetic person spending some time in the Wharton and Owen Stanley Ranges and being frequently within sight of their majestic mountains, Albert Edward Scratchley and Victoria, would find the lure and defiance to climb at least one of them overpowering irresistible. Having, with the assistance of my local police and willing carriers, accomplished the ascent of Mt. Albert Edward two months previously, I felt the urge to accept the challenge of the more difficult and dangerous heights of Mt. Victoria to be stronger tan ever. The time for my departure from the mountains to go on leave was fast approaching and I decided that, Instead of proceeding to the coast by the usual route down the Mission track, I would go via the Main Range and Koiari Districts to Port Moresby. This Patrol would not be without use for, with no Patrol Officer Stations in Port Moresby, the Koiari Districts are not often visited. I had planned, after leaving Mt. Victoria to follow the Owen Stanley Range on down to the Gap on the Kokoda track thence through the Serering and Egogi (Koiari) Districts to Port Moresby but unfortunately the inclement weather and dangerous peaks of Mt. Victoria forced me to abandon this project and we proceeded, instead, via Mr P.O. Smith's route to the Kotoi (Koiari) District on the Yonga River, thence via the Brown Range and Goul Gardens to the Metropolis. The party, consisting of myself, G.M. Hams, Puniurari, Emisi, Boma, Kiervo
Page 161
October 15, 1933 First day I went down to Tu Daku Creek again. I shot another large swift (hemiprocnis). About four two little notches found in two dendrolagus, an old & a young. I also a pseudochirus. Rane held them then they are said to come from around the top of the range above Mafulu. October 16, 1933 A plus perfect day not a sprinkle. Meowa shot a Redish long nosed bat from out of a tree in which it was sleeping. It had a fairly well developed embryo which was full in spirit. I did not go out til about nine & set to finish making up the pseudochirus from yesterday, after which I was down into the flat forest a little & saw little crab. After lunch I went up. I explored the large cave to try & find another entrance, in which I was unsuccessful. One can not go very far unless one could resport the water. The main chamber into which one comes first has a number of arms & together it makes a large room. I could just see from one arm where its stream circled it came from a pool the size of which I could never tell as the passage was too narrow to get into. About six o'clock Mr. Bran called my attention of some bats I counted four & one time and thought there were more I shot one. October 17, 1933 I made up the bat from yesterday during an hour long bad job for some reason then went down the trail & shot out twelve red tiger. The morning was fine and quite hot. I saw nothing of interest. After lunch at Honolulu I came on to rain about 3:30 & has harrassed off for the rest of the afternoon. A Dava Dava note, fought in a Dactylophis at which I spent most attention. The stomach contents are insects, & the condition of the food looked as though it had gone. October 18, 1933 Last night I went shooting down the road but saw nothing though I heard a mournful call as though someone was forcibly calling for help a kid-kid. This morning dawned clear, though around mine it cleared. I caught one rat on the set on the grass ridge. Contrary to theory the rats here apparently are attracted to the bait. I had also some luck with.
Page 163
birds. I shot a Gallinule, it flew from the same place I had seen it for the past four or five days. I looked for a nest but found none though Ramsay says it is a breeder. After lunch it clouded & about 3 it came on to rain heavier than it has done before. My road downwards from Kongeviw Kruzi nam (ALA) enters at first at the crest of the ridge by camp & goes down a little to the stream where our water is obtained then along around a point by another smaller stream then passing below a grass bald get come out onto the large grass sides down which we went to the river then it goes back into the forest to cross another stream before deming around the last slope that is in grass the bald through a small patch of timber to the follow along the flow of the main range. Along this section there seems to be mostly second growth with a few large fragarious trees also on large slide and on that has come down to the road. Right at enters a tall fact easy of access it is easy to get about in, as it is level (fairly) and few vines. The ground cover is leaves with scrubby oaklet to a height of 20 or 30 cm., through this it descends for some distance when it come out & descend through a forest conteng a lot of second growth & natural plants from bananas to the Lake Creek which is probably a short hour of study walking from camp. Beyond I have only been a short way as the trail becomes muddy it is along a steep hillside with considerable second growth. October 19, 1935 A gray dull morning with rain all afternoon. I caught a rat in the net on the grass spur. While sitting talking to Frank by the large leg of the stretcher by the slide the Kiwis carriers arrived so I went on & finish dinner the remaining cups then returned to see food. The afternoon was spent in opening the one rat writing to Bodanson and in getting ready the Kiwis trailer. October 20, 1935 The Kiwis got away some time after seven and I went up and called on the musicians and got a pomette & coffee. They occupied the entire morning which was cloudy with a light shower around mid
Page 165
the rainy afternoon passed in reading and I had no luck with frogs. The trail between here and the mission passes through second growth & grass ridges. October 21, 1933 No luck in mammals. Went down to the river; John V shot several birds. Nothing worth mentioning. October 22, 1933 Caught two rats one new to the collection. I went only as far as the end of my trail line and returned about eleven when Brother returned from Yale where they had gone to go Broody & everyone continued carrying on to Mafula for lunch a most sumptuous affair starting with rather too much to drink startly with a rum to stop the fever then two kind of wine (strong) and more to finish. The mission sun is reputed to be 90%. I am afraid that they noticed that I was very sleepy afterwards but I could not help yawning. We sat around all afternoon hoping the rain would stop, but at five we were forced to leave in the rain. On the way we met two Motu-motus bringing our flash-light to greet thoughtful of them. October 23, 1933 Returned to the mission to buy some coffee and got an onlette maid. I caught one rat in my tube & Rand caught a young mouse of some species in the trail. October 24, 1933 Feeling decidedly off color, probably touch of flu as something took a dose of salt, a native brought in of Malonga & I caught two rats on the second grass ridge again still off color. Brother Leonard went to Deva Deva. October 25, 1933 Feeling better. Caught just rat on my trip up, can't in what I call the flat part of the trail like wait was oatmeal. Brother Leonard arrived shortly before noon to say that he & Brother Leonard passed on his way to Deva-Deva bringing 17 cups of rice & stilling me that it would fetch for the two pounds of coffee we had to borrow.
Page 169
Benedict that had its tail missing apparently lost during flight. October 29, 1933 No luck in mammals and saw few birds. The day as far as weather goes was a great improvement over the past few days. Nevertheless I got caught in the rain when I went out to get some butterfly stuff. Unfortunately I found that the killing bottle was dead. October 30, 1933 Again no mammals though I got three or four birds and saw numerous other kinds of birds. Were enjoying this delight of a fine sunny morning. About two in rain came on though it did not pour till nearly five. October 31, 1933 The morning was dull and overcast with a light sprinkle about 8:30. I got two rats on the grass ridges and the woods were quite full of lots of laches. About three thirty I went up the road as far as the gardens above the mission to shoot some jays that were actively feeding thus but got none. November 1, 1933 A fine morning with rain coming on about noon and again at three. I got one rat on the grass ridge and then went down to the lakes and shot a Hemiprocne swift. Although I saw a number of birds flying across the trail through woods seemed rather devoid of all the usual notes. I saw a red headed parrot with a long tail and so got in collection. November 2, 1933 Again a fine morning & rainy afternoon similar to yesterday. Mr. Brass had stopped in to the mission yesterday & been informed that another Sauren would come over to see our pictures so I waited for him to show him our or two & also my camera. After he left which was a little before ten I found a number of lizards from some water & then went to the second grass ridge to
Page 171
try & find some quail espicially the small on. Readt Adamson returned successful from their "fortie" to the grass below the mission with one small & 2 large quail. Lawrence fought in a second installment or three for a raccon. Two native fought in a couple of Pandorus hucks & were surprised when we did not pay them. The afternoon was spent in hunting etc. November 3, 1933 A better day than the last week it did not rain til about this when we had only a light short shower. I caught one cat and a native found in a Pseudocerus & an owl for Readt. O'neil's Kiwi Policeman came along and after a lot of questionings we found out that he had lost his rifle & mail bag in the Hea, the bag undoubtedly contained our mail. Unfortunately this did not tell anyone til I came in and called Adamson's attention to the fact that his gun was missing so that nothing could be done today as it looked as though it would rain. He was a very scared Kiwi and we could do little to enlighten him as the loss of a gun is a serious offense. November 4, 1933 November A few mornings I got nothing in my trek which I visited in a hurry on the way to the Hea where I spent more than an hour walking back & forth looking for the missing articles. It was very tiring work also the climb back up was long, steep, hot. I got caught in the rain the last ten minutes. One gets a girl's idea of rugged country. While I was gone a native fought in a Macopait. November 5, 1933 A fine day til about 3:00 when it showered heavily till just five o'clock down when the air was clear with a green light over its valley. Meoro & Jaho did not want back during the night evidently not wishing to work on Sunday if not mean enough to say so anyhow they won't get any pay for this week and will loose their extra tobacco. I did not
Page 173
go any farther than the end of the trail line as I was feeling the effect of yesterday my two I stuffed with Bros while he cut a Black palm & brought from a section of the trunk to make a stick. I got nothing in my traps. November 6, 1933 all one day all day. A policeman hauled through goin' to Mondo about eleven with a few letters for Adamson only I've found out from him that there was lots of mail for us including a tin box in the mail lost by the Recruit Policeman. Any way this is one consolation now that we know it is lost and needn't expect any more for another fortnight or long. Brod, Brass & Adamson left and some confusion as this was a bunch of natives with spears to sell for a couple of days at Belavito. I went about 1/3 mile the way to the Daki, when the day before yesterday on my way back from to the Daki I had picked up a "Match boy bear" and gathered some more. On my way down I saw & shot a Negridian Whip & these is new to the collection. When I first saw him he was across a gully & with the glasses I could just make him out, I did not know what he was as I could not see his belt hat from the way he bobbed up and down I guessed what he was comeway he became curious & flew over close to me & it was his undoing. Halter sorein sent his boy over for a lesson in throwing bird comfortable I had not much for him to learn on but he succeeded in doing a parrot all right subsequently Halter, I swear, sent a three months' over $49 request for arsenic & alarmy. I shamed at $500 & might on set a ratler large for a redish white footed manne at the edge of the woods. November 7, 1933 Another finicky to far $56 + 5'30. I only went to the end of the trail cause I got mistaken trail by beside the main trail in the woods a well kind of set evidently ajourning farm. I had to root all the manes that Hallop had set
Page 175
out as they were very poorly set out. About 10.30 Lobo & Capon arrived with a note from Brann saying that collecting was so good that they had decided to stay another day & asking for more papers & food which I sent off by the same boys about 12.30 or too just as two aeroplane passed over height up on coming from the direction of Port Moresby. Mikado shot a bird resembling some what both & vulturn & crow also three geatrop, all of the above were shortly eating the some red seeds off it also a honeyeater. About 4.00 two policemen passed through on their way to the beach to look for the missing rifle Set November 8, 1933. It rained most of last night this morning it was fine and I went down a few little ways beyond that trap line which held a new shear of jeragets & a new rat in the two steel traps in the woods by the main trail. These broke on an ant in the upper bank. Shortly after lunch a native brought in a dogleg. About three or a little afterwards the Kevina policemen arrived having found his rifle but no sign of the mail bag. I had to take the support of the beach-block for him. November 9, 1933 I went along to the grass below the mission to try & find to get some guail but had no luck. I then went a short way up the trail to meet the red coming back but as they did not show up I came back & waited till about 12.30 before they arrived. I got another long spell at & Brann & brought a number of Munepials from Belavista Henry Sun bought in by the local people. November 10th - 11, 1933 Nothing worth noting happened on these days except that on the 10th we had heavy rain till about nine after which I started to go to the mission to buy some coffee but met Brother Jeandon on his way to New Dora for cargo so returned and had a little. I wanted to write to Thompson who was kind enough to wait till I finished. It so
Page 177
that it could go down the next day he came by about 11:00, I invited us all to coffee for tomorrow (Sunday) morning as he was alone. November 12, 1933 The early part of the morning passed in cutting Adamsons hair & in getting mine done about min he & I went up to the mission the other did not care to go. We got there about ten & had coffee after which Brother Leonard invited me to stay for lunch which we did & it was excellent. The mission has little to complain as the food good good housing & their work not over strenuous. After lunch we returned as I had too late to skin and also in packing for tomorrow November 13, 1933 Adamson Brass & myself together with four Moto-Motos, two Kevin's & four or five Kunis went to the river to fish & trap for minnows. As soon as we get down & camp, we tried a hole by camp the same as the one we shot second before but got nothing within went down below where we left off the last time & tried two more holes but we had little better success getting only three or four small ones. The trouble was that the river was too high and too muddy. We got back to our camp about noon and sunk & set all but two Kunis rode up. It came on to rain about two and the river rose considerably. Turns first reddish then grey. The rain stopped about four thirty and I went out & set 13 traps. November 14, 1933 I visited traps before breakfast but got nothing only two spring. The rest of the morning was spent in with Adamson prospecting we went down as far as we went yesterday and we got an all that would make considerable less than a penny weight. I took several pictures and shot a stag but unfortunately they fell into the river & was lost; also I shot two Monarchella on the way back. After lunch Brass left us returning up hill. The rain held off till about four when it came on very heavy the river rising faster than ever coming.
Page 179
all boulders. November 15, 1933 Picked up all traps and then waited till about eight for the Kunis to come down which they did about right. We then had to wait fifteen or twenty minutes while I waded out down a big tree into the river, a thing he would have refused to do if either of his had told him to do it. We had a lot of trouble getting in the river in house. I found one rat in one of the traps and the Kunis hunters shot a porcupine also a Dawa Dura marmot brought in a Dactylos. November 14, 1933 I went with Rand to shoot quail on the flat below the mission. Unfortunately we became separated and did not get as many as expected. I saw three of the large species but missed badly while Rand shot two of the small ones. Nothing on the traps. The day was fairly good only a bit overcast in the early afternoon, spent cataloging film & developing also made a stoned pudding. November 17, 1933 I went only a short distance down the road past the tree line to the grass ridge but returned to develop a film which turned out so-so. The back of the film seems good, I tore easily. The Kunis came in about one having come from Mescal. November 18, 1933 I did not go out but sent Christmas to pick up traps which held 2 coral hair rats. The morning was spent in starting to pack after lunch a marmot found in a Dactylosaid the then occupying the afternoon. November 17, 1933 I finished packing during the morning. Kiles' police, carriers together with 11 mules, arrived about about one o'clock occupying a great deal of space causing lot of crowding as it made more than 60 in camp occupying the same place as our 30 had been complaining about the crowding. Kiles arrived a little before 4:00 having stopped at the mission. We had a shower of rain during the afternoon.
Page 181
November 20, 1935 What was some of the confusion of leaving but we got away about 8:oo. Hides started with us but left us after about Yilm going on a mule. We had an unmitful trip down into to the Hea which was successfully crossed the carvers crossing was amazing & I got a picture or two. The rain was up a bit. We had a hot slog of to Deon Deon where we found Hides at all. The prisoners were lined along the wall of the boys house looking out at us unloading the mules, it was probably their first time any had seen such animals. Hilde had a very welcome cup of coffee waiting for us. We went on to Matecho as this was no local food. The afternoon wore by doing nothing; that was only a slow great light. November 21, 1935 Got away around eleven & had a not to bad the two hour climb up a most was in the shade. It was punctuated by numerous mud holes. The remaining two hours was unmitful all the slicks were all right after lunch. In nature brought in quite a number of mammals of 1 species which slept Rand who is going to stay here for a couple of days. Ray. We heard from the V.C. that Hides had been unable to get food for I had gotten a bag of rice from the mission where his carnis had gone bust. He had made the Councilors carry til they got there & he had gone to Habana in one day 10 1/2 hrs November 22 1935 An early start 6:45. B-ras & myself stuffed & had a short talk with Matia Jakelmani we could not make very shatty on horse (onjams) having gone over the side landing on a box of birds (Coach box) smashing it slightly. We crossed the Jcharuma with out incident and climbed in about an hour to the top of the church from where we got our first broad view of its mountain. The mules went via Medina while B-ras & myself went around in route getting a fine view of the coastal plain, fields & ocean. We stopped at Trofo-Trofo at Brote's John which we found the leanest of any station so far visited. The remaining journey was rather