Field journal of Heller December 1915 to February 1916

Sima Ann Lee, 2 from Holland Lee, 15 went out to the Zoological park to photograph animals armed with a permit from the Minister of Forestry obtained by Mr. Marshall. The director was out but the keeper, a very German who formerly worked in Africa for Taggebach showed me around. The 2 gorillas Spectacles bear were very tame they went into their cage. They came up to us & stood on their hind feet upright when they got too friendly the keeper shoved them away. They are 8 + 9 from Nigeria & are about 4 years old, we also took in Nicaragua which was tame & stood quietly within 10 feet yrs. I took some photos of the condors also but da didn't go inside their cage.

16 Went a visit to the Museum National of the Zoological Parks. The museum is a mixed sort of Painting historical & war trophies & banks of heroes. Most fit however is Inca & Indian relics & articles. There are many jars & pottery of various designs of Inca age. Also much cloth, manners & skulls & feather works. One case is filled with Kipus or knotted cords used as a recorder for history by the Incas. The cords are arranged in a circle about a small ring and are in 2 or dull colors. The Indian tribes are chiefly referred to the Campjos of the Machiganga. A name is not used. Some 6 tribes are named & army & bows as well as saddles

teeth shown. One case is filled by necklaces of said cases, nuts & in many cases of teeth selected from a single species as a rule. One necklace is modern canine teeth of gaypers only, another of monkey molars, other of canine teeth of peccaries, etc. 18 Visited the National Library & looked over the National History books. They had Tschudi's Flamma Peruvian, Thaxton's Birds & many works on travel but practically no pamphlets or short papers on systematic works. The library is really very poor & far behind the times

19) In the afternoon I went with Erdo to the Bull fight. The affair started at 3:30 with a good sized crowd of men! I saw only 2 or 3 women of the upper class there and also only a dozen or so of the Indians or Cholos. Apparently it is a masculine affair here. Six bullsmen killed but none of them by a single thrust, several by many repeated stabs. The bandeireros showed much skill in placing the bandeiras in the middles of the bull. Some 4 horses were killed, one by a heart thrust from the bull & another by having its entrails ripped out. The cruelty of the feature was amazing. The horses were blindfolded +

practically driven onto the lions of the bull the $ retched horse ranign chanc for its life. The attacks on the bull by the banderinos, & bullfighters is quite danger + sporting in nature. The bull fighters were frequenty applauded + some hats thrown into the ring. The ring in size is said to be the largest in the world. There is certainly plenty room space for escape and play. (20) In the afternoon I went to callon with Wordsill & took the steamer Oriz for Valparaiso There were some 60 passengers 1st class but only about 15 were English speaking people The steamer weighed anchor at 5:30 P.M. weather smooth but sky somewhat cloudy with high fog.

21 Saw several fin-backed whales & a few white-tailed Albatrosses. Brown Pelicans were seen in large flocks. They are the graceful birds of the Chinchas Islands, apparently for they are the only bird seen in the photos of the islands in Mary Robinson's Wright book on Peru. The small spots the sea runs blood or a rich chocolate red due to a sort of whale food or plant life. 22 Reached Mollendo at daylight and remained there all day taking on cargo. The whole bay here was filled by the same red sea water as we saw yesterday. A large patch of it had drifted in & filled the whole bay & sea for miles around. 23 Arrived at Arica at 6 AM, & remained until 9 AM, just long enough to comply with

the mail contract as there was no cargo to load. The town is apparently well built and the streets are lined / intersected by trees which add much to the beauty & contrast the sandy desert of the country. The Headland or Vorno is a broad hill which rises abruptly from the harbour & is well protected on its broad rounded summit. We did not go ashore nor did we see the high snow clad peaks of the Andes which are said to be visible from here. The whole coast line from Africa to Dentafagete and Deen is an extreme desert without any vegetation in sight. It is infinitely more absolute than then Mollendo which has a green belt some 20 or 30 feet above the seashore where the fog belt rests & deposits moisture in much permanent fog belt.

"appears to prevail south of this port. Dropped anchor at Aguadilla at 4 P.M., remained until dark so we went ashore. The town lies on a long rocky reef which juts out into the ocean as a broad flat shelf. The point forms a breakwater protects the bay north of it from the long swell & the Humboldt current. Nearly all the harbors are similarly formed by a southern point or reef cutting off deflecting the Humboldt current away from the land south of the Pacific swell which does not seem ever to be deflected deflects it later from the north east or west. The town of Aguadilla has wide streets, fine shops & stores in Madeira. Everywhere along it however stretches the barren bleak

sand flats & mtns covered by the same material. On our way from the steamer to the wharf we passed over a shallow reef lined by exposed rocks on each side on which were large numbers of slatey gulls clustered together. A few Seals were seen in the harbor swimming about the boats. 24 sailed in at an ore port, Mejillones a few miles above Antofagasta at 8 A.M. & remained until noon taking cargo. Reached Antofagasta at 5 P. M. The harbor is an open roadstead & great swells make it rough even in the best weather. Went ashore with Isantoin in a launch & remained until 10 P. M. The town is well paved, wide sidewalks & neat in appearance with excellent shop. It is

situated on a sterile plain at the base of rather high long hills or mountains. Nitre is practically the chief export. (25) We remained in La Paz loading nitrate & ore concentrates from Bolivia until 1 P.M. A distinct remark in Prescott's Conquest led me to the discovery that the Andes have only one low spot in them or break thin the wall which is at Cajamarca, where they pass are only 6,000 or 7,000 ft high, South of this point they remain 14,000 to 15,000 feet eight to the Transandine Pass which pass is 28,000 ft. North of Cuzco Cajamarca they are again high thus this place is near the boundary of many Andean animals some like the llama & vicunna not roaming further north.

Prescott speaks of the mid-gul enforcement protection law for the [illegible] wild llamas vicuñyas by the Incas who hunt it them annually for their wool & meat. They were surrounded by some 5000- 6000 men in a gigantic drive who used spears & lances. Some of the males were killed for the meat, especially thides and the vicuñyas & llamas were only captured, sheared & turned loose again. 26. Reached Coquimbo at 8 P.M. & stopped 2 hours for mail & passengers only. weather cloudy or misty cool with a fresh south-west wind & rather large swells or rollers. Mist obscured most of higher mountains only coast line being visible.

(27) Reached Valparaiso at 2 P.M. Saw very little of the coast until the Park was sighted. In the harbor it was very calm, many ships were at anchor & there was no great amount of space for the movement of large steamers. Went ashore with Martin & took rooms at the Hotel Royal. The inspecting Cruge & the custom house was annex force. (28) Weather ideal, nights cool & the day pleasant shooting not rains. Went to acquire lobster smugglers who means two steamers down to Juan Hernandez Island, to ask questions. Lobsters are the only export from the island. Across the street saw a large dolphin Tortoise alive, on feet of restaurant where it seemed quite content. He Weigh about 150 lbs. I am sorry In the late afternoon there is

a sort general parade at the Plaza Victoria. This takes place on one side of the square only & assists chiefly of the government women in twos or four quartettes. It is address parade in which much verity is displayed! The people of Peru have a thorough European appearance. The blood blue eyes are predominate, Indian black or negro is certain very rare here as far as the upper class are concerned. The people show a strong national or rather military spirit. Santa Plaza at the suburb is a large stone monument Capt. Pratt written hears of the recent Peruvian War. There is also a street named for Pratt & a warship the bark bearing his name, Others must here be honored are Cochranes, Pratt showed undoubted personal bravery his

died in the [illegible] as a sustaining single-handed fight or foot-body attack on the enemy. It seems strange that he should be so highly rewarded for such deeds. A [illegible] vehicle here is the cat which is coarse like in build but square topped enclosed fourth new round-shine body, but other style of cat is seen here, itsatory [illegible] on wildher as on the streets for firma of staff all fights are also prohibited. The German influence here's quite manifest in the [illegible], after army the make after Motley cars which are double-decked to the railroad locomotive class of German manufacture. The [illegible] also seen on the streets which are chiefly horses all have a large post 6 inches in diameter inserted under the spige aperajo along the side of the back bone which keeps the pack well off the shoulder.

and prevents sore boobs. This looks like an excellence contained in a Chilean invention no doubt, I have seen no sore- boobed horses here. The fruit markets contained many northern fruits, apples, peaches, pears, apricots, plums, etc. Spent the late afternoon at Vina, del Mar, the residence suburb, it lies north of the city on a flat plain near the beach so it's a town of well paved streets with fine homes with gardens about them filled with lemon trees in U.S. style. Saw no floss or any horse concentrated in this Spanish style which front the street flush. No birds seen in yards or streets. Along sea coast were many black cormorants, to white bodied gull. The only land birds seen were few swallows. Vultures even seem to be wanting. The hills are covered with small brushes & on embankments a

"[illegible] flower is golden California poppy which is a shrub also. On the hill above the city is situated a park of cypress & pine trees also many eucalyptus & some olive trees. 31 Took the 12:30 P.M. train for Santiago & arrived there at 6 P.M. The day was bright with a fresh breeze it was very warm. The railroad extends thru the hills along narrow valleys highly cultivated by irrigation all tho the country hillside doesn't look very dry. The hill are everywhere covered by a scattered growth of small trees or better large bushes well separated & having the appearance of the acacia fields of Africa. In places many tall Cereus cactus were seen with the bushes grass was not very evident the ground being bare & stoney.

At Limache the valley looked very fertile. Many fields of alfalfa, potatoes, corn, maize, orchards of peaches, apricots, plums, apples, melons etc were seen. Several very extensive vineyards were also passed. In some valleys the floor was used as a pasture for cattle there where there were meadows & moist conditions. Approaching Santiago the valley widened out to + became very level. The hills on either side ever at greater distance but never small & stony. Further away to the east could be seen none of the snow capped Andes, but the fields grown with few small masses or only streaks in canyons. I spent the morning on the Cerro Santa Lucia which is a high rocky hill in the center of the city. This artistically planted.

to trees & flowers, and has roadways & staircase leading to the rocky summit. From the top a fine view of the city, the great flor valley & the peaks of the Andes may be obtained. The surrounding farming country is largely meadows with stock & gain fields. One of the premier Andean fruits is a large rounded stone sort of the cit, covered with man fields in places. No forest is visible, the sides of the mountains appearing quite bare. In the encyclopetes, cypress & pine trees of the Cerro I saw very few birds. The crested Sparrow of the Cuzco region was here a common bird in hedges. He looks slightly darker than the Peruvian but otherwise similar. A few olive gold finches unseen, & a white crested small flycatcher. The birds were nesting in full song.

The point of species is amazing. Not a hammer or damage was seen. (1) Day clear & warm with great much reflection of the sun on the white pavements. (2) Spent the morning in the gr. Parque Cousinaya. It is a really beautiful park large size with green variety of pines, oaks, pipper trees, eucalyptus, bamboo & flowers. Beneath the trees is a yard growing lawn carefully cut & watered. Even in the large wood slake country birds were few. On the afternoon I went to another large park, the Botanical Garden & Museum Natural. The place was labelled Distrito Normal. Many of the trees were very old or large size. Giant Sycamores, oaks, maples pines, elms & magnolias abounded. The museum was closed for 2 months. The park was almost as large as the Cousinaya. I learned afterward that the park attendants had allowed

all the animals to die after the park had been well stocked several years ago. 3 The day being Monday to Art Museum was closed so I missed that- 7:30 P. M. train for the Trans-andeive journey at the station on departure I witnessed a sincere scene of real emotion in this country. Men individually and another goodbye saying they embraced each other & kissed necks a cheek making a series of loud exclamatory sound while tears flowed freely from their eyes. The women of course did likewise but for hardened men to go thru such feeling scenes seems very ridiculous. They recovered from their sadness soon enough after the train got underway, I understand.

that after I got there feeling scenes when friends are only going on a 2 or 3 day journey from home, We reached [illegible] under a town at 2500 feet about 11 P.M. & remained over night at the hotel. The town lies amidst orchards, alfalfa fields, grain fields, etc. 4 We departed at 7 A.M. & climbed steadily through hill country along the course of a muddy river of glacial appearance. There was nowhere any forest, and about 9,000 feet very little grass even at 11 A.M., we passed over the long tunnel of Las Cienegas at 11,000 feet which marks the summit of the road. People who travel the road often say there is no wolves known here which is in doubt due to the lack of high elevation or the rodents network around [illegible] as Las Cienegas. The Laguna del Dora is a small mountain lake in a narrow valley.

"to without low land snow fields or beauty" his young small size. The name is apparently a recent one as he dreamer reached so far south & should be connected with this country. The Prenta del Jura comes down on the Argentine side is another mountain of the same class. The Argentine side gets pass is even drier & people bleed than the rest of this is possible to without any forest or bushes whatever. The great peak of Aconcagua I could not see as it was cloudy in that direction but the snow peaks near by covered by more glaciers. Norther lower my then seen large snow fields or glaciers like the madras about Salsaman Cordillera Veronica & others peaks of Peru & Bolivia. The scenery considering this point of the lowest peak of the new world Aconcagua is very desolate & dreary & arid.

The rock foundations here are mere sandstone of brown or yellowish color, many of the states were limited & reduced in direction. Red, got fired the sandstone used for building purposes ever seen in places. Then down the valley spread out on the Medora river but the spring became drier. The towns before reaching Medora or an elevation of about 4,000 ft. The country looked exactly like El Paso Texas country we encountered a similar growth of creoste bush on an arid sand plain without cactus or other vegetation. Reached Medora late at 11 P.M., + both rooms in hotel with Fines Stephens who was one of the passengers for B.G. Saw practically no bird or animal life along the route during the whole day. The town is locked by a fine fruit & veg.

country which is irrigated by the melt from the Mendoza River. All the surrounding country is dry desert of thorn brush or small trees. Mendoza has about 80,000 population + lies on the vast Pampas Plains at the foot of the Andes. Maconcagua also is sometimes visible from the fort on the town but it was cloudy age with the morning on the Andes. (5) Our train left at 18 M. Day clear + warm. We rood for about 2 hours thru cultivated irrigated fields before we came to the dry desert. The desert was as level as a floor & covered by a good growth of yellow south barbed mesquite brutes, or trees, so closely that no lone plains appeared. So dry is this desert & level that there is no to rock ballast on the railroad simply the rails are laid on the plain is packed in by the soil + no grinding was a rule. Water comes me did not melt. The depressions that catch the local drain.

Apparently make no watercourses unnecessary, saw no game or large birds. Reached San Luis about 11 P.M. (6) In the morning got up about 9 AM near Chacabuco station in the province of Buenos Ayres. Yesterday toward event- ing Chacabuco the deserts changed somewhat, the mesquite green gave place to a larger field land dark green acacia which grew higher & more abundant so that a person walking on the plain was quite hidden & a horseman would be difficult to see. In the morning however we were in very different country in a grass region where rain fall is abundant & irrigation not needed. The plains were well stocked with cattle which stood in herds in shallow ponds or else about dry pond beds. The country was verdant with grass & new corn & it was hot & appressive. Many herds of small ostriches or rheas were seen wild on the plains where they are

"protected by law. They paid no attention to the trains beyond distance. Numerous falks of black ibis now also seen. Several large Jabiru storks seen near ponds. A lots of ducks + geese also numerous along banks, doves, & smaller Tailed Gracatches now seen on the few wires along the track or rail fences. Stephens saw a small wolf a couple of kms. The swan-tailed Gracatch in flight look like the's whydah funches of Africa. Reached Buenos Ayres at 2:30 & look rooms as the projected hotel where Stephens is staying at the Avenida de Mayo & 8) Visited th Jardin Zoologica. This is a very large park and contains a large variety animal Many rare species were seen. There were 2 West African Buffalos or boks now, a large herd of Wattle's Eland Asia which is a very long snouted

giant species with peculiar teeth a band of 5 Grisons were clear rare. Several what little species between 2 species, a Mule as & a grizzly rare. There was no spectacled bear or thylar nor Spawning deer. (9) In the afternoon went to the races with Parker. The track is a very fine one the buildings being of cement & beautiful in design. The day was hot but the crowd was quite large. Not many ladies were present except in the private stand of the Jockey Club. There were 8 races, none of 25 entries. The jockeys were all natives except one negro for American. The track is the beautiful Park of Palermo's garden's

a large boats. We dine there at 6 PM. when great numbers of automobiles & carrages of the wealthy real mere such as one of the drivers when they display themselves by driving back & forth. The people here look quite different from the children- They have less dark features & are sad & at least seldom gay or boisterous. A family toy is an Italian mixture with less pure Spanish blood than the Chileans a German, About 3 years ago the tariff & expenditures of B.A were cut that by broad lines & prices are much lower generally. The vegetables are fine & cheaper cars of European make

brought at a song after the Crash came. Hard cars are seldom seen & the difference with civilization is well marked. The Arendle Mayor is Ralph Volney by these taxis, producing back & forth all day might nearly all empty but as but so numerous that it is difficult to cross the street. Victories almost also are cheaper cattle & wheat seem to be the only articles of export or large business there being no manufactories or other enterprises here, (15) This afternoon I went to La Plata with Kenneth in his automobile. The day day was bright & hot with a haze over the sun. We came over the new stone paved road most of the distance by way of Bridewell.

This is the only metaled road outside of the city, the others being mere wires in The road led thru green fields or pastures & fields of maize, no wheat, potatoes or other cropsfield was seen. Saw a few of 3 Pheas in a field + several scissor - tail flycatchers + drawby glossybirds, + median larks or starlings, on the way back at dark saw many quinea pigs or Rus - is as they are called by the natives. They were dark olive black like those I sa Raya but perhaps smaller. Many were seen in the road & hardly moved out of the way, & habits they dacted exactly like rabbits. At the museum metred Sally to one of the curators, Sr. Frank. The Museum is a fine 2 story structure

spread over much space in the park near the Zoological garden. The museum contains a large series of fossil shells & bones, remains of the thyprodonis also many giant skulls including the skin with hair attached of ancient species (Hypoatherium domesticum). The recent horse ((Equus) Prickman?) was also illustrated by a 'skin' mounted skeleton. A remarkable extinct beast was against human size an camel (Macrochemin There was a large saber - tooth tiger of the Pampas. Several predators were also

seen in the collection, A good collection of whales from the Far Plata mouth in one of the halls, The mounted parts of animal included most of the important living types. The whole natural history exhibit was very extensive & quite easy in size to take to Field Mus. Museum or National Museum U.S.A. (18) Went to the Zoo with Kennett & Wilson of the Amer. Embassy. The keeper, Sr. Orrelli took me around but he spoke only a few words of English. At his house in the park he had charized in the yard a tame red jaguarondi, a half grown guinea & a very affectionate

gray fox or crab eating fox. When pelted it uttered a plaintive low moaning sound. The & chimp panzer which rides about the park smoked a cigarette he gave it & was very affectionate to him. The large bull hippo may have & lions came out of the pool when he called it & came up with force. (19) Kermit & I visited the National N. H. Muse- on Penn street. We met the director & the ornitho- Mr. Harbene who showed us its about. The museum has many cases of mounted animals & skeletons & fossil mammas of the Pampas. The

collection is even larger than the La Plata Museum in number of species but has a less number of fossil mammals. Dr. Harbene gave me several large proper monographs on the birds of Argentina which are very complete, well printed. He has divided the Argentine up into 4 faunal regions which are on a vegetable or moisture bases largely. For the past 3 days we have had heavy thundershowers at night about 8 to midnight. It took several days in the new subway school is well built with fine stations floors. Every stone of the pavement have been brought from Europe. Avencia as ballast, nothing coming by rail from the Andes yet this week! The BA population looks largely Italian & many of them speak only a muffled Spanish & Italian.

(20) Took the Verdi at La Plata at noon. K.B. took me to the station. The docks at La Plata are situated well inland on long channels. All afternoon we loaded carcasses of beef and did not get away until 4 P.M. The night was clear + moonlight, and the journey across the La Plata was choppy but not rough. The water lower was muddy to some color as fish bone. Reached Montevideo at 8 A.M. (21) The harbor of Montevideo is well protected by break- waters + of large size. There on anchorage the city extends in a half circle around the whole shore-line. A low hill crowned by a fort at the land side of the city is a prominent feature of the landscape. Went ashore at 11 A.M. with Berry + Brown.

"Wheeling W. Visgi. The town Court of Court house, of or 2 stories is situated On a long point or headland. The chief avenue to the ridge & follows thru the Streets dipping off at a somewhat grade to the ocean on one side & the Bay on the other. Th Solis Theater is a unique design but most of the buildings are like those of B.A. Three streets are round less long than B, A & the underneath cafe is seldom seen. The plays are less artistic than B, A. Several large packing plants occupy sites on the bay shore. Stay cool & clear. Left at 8P.M. 22 Sea smooth with a shower or two & cloudy weather 24 Weather clear with blue

dry & brisk S.E., trades blowing blowing up a few white caps at a tumbling sea. The S.E. trades have deviated from north of east even N.E, 25 at 7 A.M., we were a few miles off Rio de Janeiro. About 5 miles off the coast. Before us loomed the great granite mass of Gavea (the main sail). This a square topped solid granite rock nearly 2000 ft. high. Beyond it & the mouth of the harbor loomed the conical dome of the Sugar Loaf Mountain. Harder over a high peak with a perpendicular peak with a building on the summit at is known as Frijaca Forcada or The sculptured high pinacles are all gray granite & their sides are smooth masses of the same rock.

in material in effect they look much like the Hambach gorge or Mulchen Picards as regards geological structure. Everywhere the country was covered by virgin tropical forest except where the rock slopes were too steep & smooth. Palms were very prominent feature of the hillscapes. Near the entrance of the harbor were several low hills of a rounded outline & solid yellow with many fromations surrounded close the water lines by a heavy forest of palms & other trees. On one side of the entrance formed the gigantic Sugar Port, on the other a stone walled fort while in the middle spoke channel along spell with rock with newer fortifications & disappearing guns barred the way. Inside the city lay covering several small hills & lining the

beach throught the whole crements shaped length. Hatter back, as sharp granite cone could be seen from Trijina + still faulting away in the leonizon to the N.W. the tops of the Organ mountains loom deep in various grotesque + pinnacled shapes to 8000 feet in altitude. No more picturesque halo first than this and all that was needed to make it a scenic paradise was snow + ice on the higher peaks, & glaciation perhaps. Mr reached the dock about 10 AM & adventured with Rose + Lewis to view the city. We took a trolley car along the bay shore to the Botanical Garden. The street overlined by keymers houses of every architectural design fall highly ornamented on

the exterior. The palm style houses did not seem numerous but in place the small home with garden in front. the two of the main avenues are lined with a central line of tall trees + tape stands but the streets generally are very narrow, with cramped sidewalks. The Botanical Garden is a large open space with many palm species of the royal ship's a great variety of palm species, all examined were seen. Also many species of flowering trees. The Para Rubber Tree Hevea brasiliensis was seen in adult size. It had the appearance from history with light green pinnae arranged straight foliage + gray smooth bark. The Brazil nut and a legume small tree like a subacacia also seen. A cherry fruit tree was not seen but my aggregate Barbados, July 26th

"Yes, mes seen a new adult Brazil nut tree. The collectin represented only a small fraction of the trees, a Brazil The zoo is said to be almost second of animals much neg- lected. Before leaving the city proper I visited the fish market at 11 A.M. but the number was almost closed at that late hour. Seabass of several species were seen, dory fish, skates, smelts, Spanish mackerel, tuna, flounders, oles, shelly crabs, crayfish, dent fish, squid, pork oysters, clams, shells & shrimps, clean displayed for sale. The National Opera house is one of the fine buildings of the town. Everywhere on street plazas x roads were bronze statues. One near the Opera house

was a fountain in shape of a swimming child. We visited the art school nearby, where the students made copies of painting nude models by mere lines to make heavy dark shades sexual organs represented as in life apparently these arts do not tolerate any false modesty in their work. The people about town were two thirds of negro blood or admixture & the complexion was apple decelerly brown or chocolate coffee colored. This is in marked contrast to the blond European appearance of Argentine Chile Uruguay. The wealth of the country consists chiefly in coffee, cattle are few as well as are the grains for commercial value.

26-27 Started the port left the wharf at Rio yesterday at 5 P.M. & dropped anchor again soon near mouth of harbor as boats are allowed to leave until dark or sunset. Day partly cloudy hot, & almost calm. No animl life seen. (27) Weather considerable the same, no land in sight. (28) Reached Bahia at 7 P.M. & dropped anchor for night. Weather rainy hot. So we left again at 9 A.M. my passengers went ashore. From the anchorage the town could be well seen, it consisted of alone part lining the beach & an upper residence part on the bluff with elevators & winding roads

connecting the two sections, The building all had an old weather appearance & seemed very ancient. They were Spanish design made of mortar with tiled roofs. Many churches or cathedrals could be seen there buildings are said to be more numerous here than even in Brazil as this is the city is the ecclesial head of the country. The port or Town is on the north shore of the giant bay which is 40 miles across with low shores backed by forested & well cultivated country. Fishing boats with lateen & sail were numerous in the bay.

(29-30) Our course lay Close along shore in sight Of the white sands of The beach until round Cape St. Roque, along sand spit Which is the most eastern Point of the continent. The Brazilian current Up to this point is Against us as it splits At this point where it First touches S. America: Round the cape the greater part of the current Is with our gas and clear the prevailing breeze so that they we made 350 knots a day where before we did only 308. The whole trip in the Atlantic has been barren of birds, while porpoises never joining fishing. It is odd that the Pacific should have such an abundance of life in contrast. The only

explanation I can offer is the coldness of the water on the Pacific & the opposite or constantly direction of the currents blowing from the Antarctic & a great variety of sea life. (3) Very clear skies with a light stern or south- easterly breeze. No land in South Equator within a degree or less. Feb. 1-3) Weather clear with very light breeze from S.E., same. South Equatorial current strong carrying about 50 knots a day with the ships moves, neither other vessels, birds, fish & mammals mounting (4) Reached Barbados at 4 P.M. in clear weather with a light breeze blowing. The Island is low lying coral formation and this differs from the

neighboring Windward Islands which are all volcanic and peaks of 2000 to 4,000 feet in height. The buildings are only 100 feet high. The Island has a series of coral rock terraces for the ground level central plateau - this everywhere green with cane- fields and in places with grows of trees & palms, a prominent feature of the landscape an old Dutch windmills & sugar factories, with their tall chimneys & Longcroft's factory. The population is 9/10 negro, the negro being of the small caribbean type with small features and often much white mixture. They speak only English apparently. The town of Bridgetown is small with a few shops & narrow streets. Curious stores carry a good stock of stuffed pets, alligator teeth

corals, lead marks, etc. We remained at anchor until 10 A.M. most of the passengers spending the time on the boats, scales. 5 Sea smooth with vessel staying part of time. In the afternoon we were directly east of the Island of Guadaloupe^ which has bold sloping sides, + a truncated top or summit of green wealth like a tableland. At noon we were in sight of the island of Martinique which had a sharper & higher cone than Guadaloupe. No sea birds were seen although we were in sight of islands nearly day. 10 dropped anchor in clover bay at 9 P.M., weather for day smooth

with overcast sky but not very chilly. 11 From an anchorage we could see the snow covered shore of the bay. Left anchorage after doctor's visit & clearance at 8 AM. & reached the dock at Brooklyn at 10 hrs. Stayed until 11 however to get luggage than custom house, went with R, Vozz across in the ferry & took room together in Hotel Manhattan.