Journal of a cruise in the US ship, Vincennes, to the North Pacific Ocean, China Sea, Behring Strait, etc. by William Stimpson, 1853-1855

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210 Pages
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Friday, July 1. Lat. 34° 48' Lon. 30° 04' About noon a floating oil-cask was discovered To leeward, and being steered for was soon reached. Around it were playing a num- ber of a beautiful fish, the Dolphin (Co- syphona), the first we had seen. When the cask was taken aboard, the lower surface was found covered with Mollusca, of a very large size, among which were numerous fine large specimens of the crab also found in the Gulf weed, (Nautilograpus minutus) A filament- Menters Alga covered the water line of floatation of the cask. The staves which were submersed were bored in every direction by Serodes ( ) Saturday, July 2. Lat. 35° 32' Lon. 28° 46' Sunday, July 3. Lat. 35° 51' Lon. 28° 08' This day it was calm, or nearly so, and much intercourse was carried on between the different vessels of the Squadron. In the afternoon the "John Hancock" having the bene- fet of steam-power, left us for Madeira. The calm also gave me an opportunity of collecting Pelagic animals by means of the tow-net of gauze. In the afternoon and especially in the evening, marine in- vertebrates were particularly abundant. For- skoda occurred, as a general thing, in the evening, or after dark, alone. Monday, July 4. Lat. 36° 01' Lon. 27° 46' The Anniversary was celebrated, on board our ship, by a collation in the Commodore's Cabin to which the officers of the Squadron were invited. The crews enjoyed a dinner of preserved meats. The calm still continues. The animals obtained during this calm were nearly as follows: Medusa Large specimens of Pelagia cyanella (See Ecksholts.) frequently occurred, and a yellowish-green, globular Aurelia was ex- ceedingly common, as was also a small pale rose-coloured Fergonia, and several oth- ers whose genus could not be discovered, from their minuteness, and the circumstan- ces under which they were observed. An occasional specimen of Physalia, Velella, and Peripata was seen passing, those of the last-mentioned genus being never more than one-fourth of an inch in diameter. Diphyides
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like those so numerous in summer on the surface of our stagnant pools -- (See note T also.) In the morn- ing the net in skimming the sur- face of the water became rust color- ed from the orders floating orders, which seemed to be in great quantity. This is perhaps the deposition on the water of the African dust, particu- larly as indications of organic mat- ter, in a hard state were evident under the microscope. But microscopic a stelar alga was seen -- o o. Monday, July 25. N.Lat. 19°16' W.Long. 21°38' In the afternoon one or two large whales sported near us. The ejection has rather the appearance of a jet of steam rather than of water except that it vanishes instead of floating off into the air as a cloud -- which evanescence results from the approx- imation of temperatures of the two fluids -- the expired air and that within. Tuesday, July 26. N.Lat. 18°00' W.Long. 21°58' 1853 The water today is again green. Wednesday, July 27 N.Lat. 16°45' W.Long. 21°57' The flying fish are gradually becoming more numerous. Today the shoals were nu- merous and the fish of large size. Thursday, July 28. N.Lat. 15°08' W.Long. 22°46' At 12 o'clock we made land, which prov- ed to be the island of Maio. We af- terward made St Jago, and at sunset anchored in the Harbor of Porto Praga. Friday, July 29 Porto Praga At 8 o'clock I took the 1st Dinghy & crew and dredged in different parts of the Harbor until 8 o'clk. The bottom near the town was sand, depths ten, sometimes only five, fathoms, yielding Nacula and other bivolves, and a few univalves. In the outer parts of the harbor the water was deeper and the bottom consisted of small pebbles and multitudes of mullipores. By dredging I obtained shells of the Genera Turritella, Conchium, Patella Jesus, Pannumobia, Natica, Venus, Trux
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22 1853 catella, fissurella, Leda, Pyramidella, Arca, Pecten, Mitra, Pectunculus, Scabra, Oliva. There were however scarce any species of Crustacea or Annelida, and few radiates, excepting Echinoderms. While dredging the frigate Constitution ap- earred, and lay to near by, while hold- ing communication with the Vessels. At nine o'clock I went ashore and made an examination of for the natural history of the place as far as time would allow. A short distance back from the beach, where the heat was intense, I found Dacelo Jagrensis, the kingfisher mentioned by Darwin (Voy. Beagle) a Lacertan, a large land crab (Gecarcinus,) and several centipedes. At low water part of the beach was sandy, but most of it rocky in scruffy ledges. In the sand nothing was found ex- cept a large Ocyptole ( ) 1853 23 with plumes to its eyes, which lived in deep holes in the dry sand just a- bore high water mark. On the rocks the shells were chiefly Nerita, but Patelloc, Littorina, Trochii and Plan- axes.[illegible] also occurred. An Echinome- tm and an Ophiclepis, a coral (Ae- fraugia?) a beautiful Amphibonian an- nelid, Gypsea (C.) Areco, and various small encrusting sponges, were found at low water marks. At 12 it was necessary to return to the boat, but waiting at the landing place for some two hours I had some opportunity of seeing the town and inhabitants. The latter were mostly Negros, who go about nearly naked and wore of a much poorer breed than any I had before seen. We passed through some groves of Cocoa- nut trees and tasted the fruit and its milks in a green state. At five in the afternoon the anchor was catted and we stood south- ward with a fine breeze. In the evening several flying-fish flew
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24 aboard and were preserved. Saturday, July 30. N.lat. 13°33' W.lon. 24°10' Sunday, July 31. N.lat. 12°24' W.lon. 24°24'. This day we were visited by tremendous tropical squalls and showers, giving the ship a general soaking, inside and out. August 1 Monday N.lat. 10°46' W.lon. 24°08' The rains still continue, less heavy. Tuesday, Aug. 2. N.lat. 9°16' W.lon. 22°24'. The number of sail in sight today, and during the last few days has been quite large, often reaching four or five at a time. Wednesday, Aug. 3. N.lat. 8°19' W.lon. 20°4' Thursday, Aug 4 N.lat. 7°14' W.lon. 18°52'. A few Tergita and Velbella were taken by the tow-net. A large shark was seen but not taken. A porpoise was struck and an osteologic pre- 1859 25 paration of one of its anterior limbs made. Friday, Aug. 5 N.lat. 6°09' W.lon. 17°09'. This day we tacked ship and stood to the westward. Seven or more sail in sight. Saturday, Aug. 6 N.lat. 5°18' W.lon. 16°53'. We spoke today the ship Arab. thirty days out from Boston, and got copies of the "Boston Journal" etc. up to July 7th. The pleasure of reading these can only be appreciated by those who have had news from home under similar circumstances. In the afternoon there passed several individuals probably of Pelagia cyanea half grown. In their substance were found several minute Amphipods, and attached to their surface a curious Cirripede, resembling somewhat that which is found on the north parts of Crabs. Sunday, Aug. 7. N.lat. 4°22' W.lon. 20°49'. In the evening the Pyrosomus were seen for the first time. They occurred in
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26 1853 bands of twenty or thirty feet in breadth, in which they were thickly crowded, while in the interspaces they were sparingly distributed. These bands were a few hundred feet apart, and accorded in direction with the wind. They were brightly luminous from the contained animals, and presented a beautiful appearance, as a diagram, seen from the tops. But the wake of the ship was the most remarkable spec- tacle; presenting, from the stern to a point a long way astern, a milky way of yellow light, containing bright stars which increased in number or strained out as the ship approached or receded from the bands of Tyros ones. The darting of these animals, or the quick jerks in which their mo- tion consist, being often simultaneous in small groups, gave a singular appearance; something a flight of small rockets: - this also at first carused us to think that schools of fish were following the vessel. Other animals seen were much-tu- dudes of Nyctea urcinata, a few 1853 27 of H. longirostra, several Cladocera, and a large number of crustaceans among which the curious genus Phyl- losoma occurred. A number of the curious water skippers previously taken on July 24th, also occurred. Monday, (Aug. 8th) S.Lat. 3° 43' W.Long. 22° 51' Tuesday, Aug. 9. S.Lat. 2° 35' W.Long. 24° 28' This evening the tow-net took a living Ar- gonata, with its shell, containing eggs. Wednesday Aug 10 S.Lat. 0° 36' W.Long. 25° 41' Between seven and eight o'clock this evening we crossed the line, in 26° W. Thursday, Aug. 11. S.Lat. 1° 10' W.Long. 26° 5½' In the evening the tow-net took a sin- gle specimen of Nyctea trispinosa Friday, Aug 12. S.Lat. 3° 1½' W.Long. 28° 08' The wind has continued strong for the last week, but enables us only to head S.W. Saturday, Aug. 13. S.Lat. 5° 08' W.Long. 29° 24'
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August 1853 South Atlantic Ocean. 14th S. Lat. 7° 16' W. Lon. 30° 31' Wind S.E. Av. Rate 6 knots. S The officer of the deck reported seeing many flying fish and some petrels. What the birds could have been I cannot imagine, not having seen them. 15th S. Lat. 9° 40' W. Lon. 31° 55' Wind S.E. Av. 6 knots. 16th S. Lat. 11° 51' W. Lon. 33° 17' Wind S.E. Av. 5 k. A sail in sight. 17th S. Lat. 14° 03' W. Lon. 34° 11' Wind S.E. Av. 6 k. 18th S. Lat. 16° 33' W. Lon. 35° 02' Wind S.E. Av. 7 k. 19th S. Lat. 18° 57' W. Lon. 35° 57' East Wind - 6 knots. Soundings for temperature were taken today. In this I was much interested as it has the closest relations with the vertical distribution of the floating animals. It is only necessary to consider the fact that very many species appear at the surface only after nightfall, to see this relation clearly. The water at the surface is on an average two degrees colder during the night than in the daytime. The experiment of today shows that with a surface temperature of 74½°, the temperature at 100 fathoms is 71°; that at 460 fathoms 46°. Thus the temperature decreases in an increasing rate as August 1853 South Atlantic Ocean the depth increases - at least as far as 460°. So that a temperature of two degrees lower than that at the surface will probably attain at a depth of about 75 fathoms; and if it is uniformity of temperature that the floating animals seek in avoiding the surface during the day, they must descend every morning to a depth of seventy-five fathoms to enjoy a temperature equaling that which they find at the surface during the night. But it is probably that the effect of light has much greater weight in the connection than that of Temperature. 20th S. Lat. 21° 32' W. Lon. 36° 56' Wind E. Av. 7 k. 21st S. Lat. 24° 22' W. Lon. 38° 00' Wind C Av. 8 km. S Sunday - Divine Service held. Mr J. D. Stuart officiating. 22nd S. Lat. 26° 48' W. Lon. 39° 53' Wind N.E. Av. 5 k. 23rd S. Lat. 28° 13' W. Lon. 40° 57' Wind N.E Av. 6 k. The first Cape pigeons (Procellaria Capensis) were seen today. They were few in number and remained far astern, seldom venturing near the ship.
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August - 1833 South Atlantic Ocean. The sea is very smooth. In fact the weather since leaving the U.S. has been remarkably fine, with occ[illegible] on occasion to strike a royal, except from caution. 24th S. Lat. 29° 16' W. Lon. 27° 34' Wind N. 8 kn. Two sails in sight. 25th S. Lat. 30° 03' W. Lon. 23° 33' Wind N. 8 kn. The first individuals of the large grey Albatross (Diomedea exulans) were seen today. This wonderful bird has a most striking appearance when seen from afar, sailing noiselessly, and seemingly without a motion, or a single vibration of its wide spreading wings. I was never more vividly reminded of a "spirit brooding over the surface of the waves" (Ossian) than when looking at one of these birds just after sunset, at a distance of about half a mile, with its head presented, and keeping at its usual distance of about ten feet from the water. 26th S. Lat. 30° 32' W. Lon. 19° 58' Wind N. 9 kns. 27th S. Lat. 31° 10' W. Lon. 15° 33' Wind N. 8 kn. August - 1833 South Atlantic Ocean. Another species made its appearance among the birds today; - the "Cape hen" (so called by the sailors) which proved on being captured to be Procellaria gigas 28th S. Lat. 31° 38' W. Lon. 12° 33' Wind N. 4 kn. Soundings for temperature today gave the following results Surf. t. = 61° at 100 f. = 58° at 450 f. = 43° The Cape pigeons have increased very much in numbers, and flock around the ship to the number of perhaps fifty at a time. They fly to the head when the cook's relishes are thrown overboard, and alighting amongst it with a chattering noise they quarrel with each other for the choice bits, and dive for those that sink. In individuals in two instances had rags tied to their legs, showing them to have been caught before. Several individuals were taken with hooks baited with pork, and others by being entangled in cotton thread which was towed overboard in the wind Two or three large Albatrosses are
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August, 1853 South Atlantic Ocean seen every day now, but never more than five at a time. The "Cape hen" are also very few in number. An- other species joined us today, the Gigantic petrel (Procellaria gigantea) 29th S.Lat. 32°00' W.Lon. 9°59'.-jk.-At midnight following this day the wind suddenly shifted from North to South west, without the intervention of any calm. 30th S.Lat. 32°10' W.Lon. 6°14' Wind SW 8k. This day two more birds made their appearance, - the black Albatross (Diome- dea fuliginosa) and a brown petrel with a white breast, of the size of the Cape pigeon. This species was not seen afterward, it resembled some what a shearwater in its quick flight; it never alighted on the water as far as we could see, and kept usually some distance from the ship. 31st S.Lat. 32°14' W.Lon. 3°56' Wind SW 5k In the morning it was nearly calm. I could catch a Gigantic petrel with a hook and line baited with pork. It was so voracious that having dropped off the hook in lifting it on board, it September 1853 South Atlantic Ocean immediately took the hook again, when it was paid out to him, without rising from the water. I also caught two of the large albatrosses. 1st S.Lat. 32°52' W.Lon. 29' Wind SW 8k. 2nd S.Lat. 32°42' E.Lon. 1°57 Wind S.W. 5k The small white-breasted albatross made its first appearance today. (Diomedea) It was easily taken, and subsequently appeared in about equal numbers with D. eulana - but never more than five at a time. 3rd S.Lat. 32°51' E.Lon. 5°01' Wind SW 8k 4th S.Lat. 32°52' E.Lon. 8°20' Wind S. 6k S In the evening a large species of Pyrosoma was seen in considerable numbers about the ship, of which a few were captured. They were dispersed in parallel bands as in the Equatorial species (see p. 25) but were scarcely as numerous. 5th S.Lat. 32°23' E.Lon. 9°31' Wind SE 5k Today we put the ship about and stood to the South-westward, in consequence of the wind hauling ahead.
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September, 1853 South Atlantic Ocean 6th S. Lat 39°08' E. Lon 9°11' Wind SbyE 6k Course to the S and W We had another addition to our number of attendants today in the "Whale birds" now seen for the first time. They are Of a bluish gray color, darker on the front of their wings above, and paler below. Size between a Curie and a Cape pigeon. They were never seen to alight but kept up a rapid somewhat irregular, fluttering flight some ways astern of the vessel. Vast flocks were seen at a distance to-day, and a few (from to five) have always followed the ship till near the Cape. Two albatrosses were caught. The last of the "Cape hens" were 7th S. Lat 34°6' E. Lon. 8°34' Wind S. 4 knots We stood to the Eastward during the morning, but in the afternoon tacked again and stood to the Sd & W. Pyrosaurae are still seen in the evening. The weather has been unfair for a few days. The last of the Pr. gigantus was seen today. September, 1853 8th S. Lat 35°7 E. Lon 8°39' Nearly Calm. Course S.E. A Cape pigeon was seen with a piece of string attached to it. In the evening the net took a variety of interesting animals, as Salpae, Cleodora pyramidata in great numbers, and Cleodora balantium?, Monilepis etc 9th S. Lat 35°27 E. Lon. 9°52 Wind W. 5 kn. We are now in the same longitude as on the 6th, having in four days gained only 2 degrees of latitude. Consequently if we had made two degrees further to the South in 3° and 6° W. Lon, where the wind allowed of it, we perhaps would have shortened our passage three days, in (making 42 days from Pt Praya to the Cape) avoiding the detention of a head wind. Numerous whale sports were seen around the ship. 10th S. Lat 35°06' E. Lon 13°49' Wind S.W. 8 kn. Two more species of birds were seen for the first time today. The first ( ) a little larger than the Cape pigeon, with brown back and white breast. The
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September. 1853 South Atlantic Ocean Second ( ) a very small petrel or Carie, black, with a white spot above at the root of the tail. This latter species had very curious habits; - it seemed rather to skip over the water than to fly, rarely remaining on the wing for a greater distance than a few rods (usually much less - a few feet) written- touching or patting the water with one of its feet, sometimes with the right foot, sometimes the left. It was not seen to alight. Saw or five of them were seen every day un- til we arrived at the Cape. 11th S. Lat. 34° 53' E. Lon 13° 10' Wind S.W. 5k. S. Several Sails in sight. We made the land at this Cape of Good Hope at 2h 30m P.M In the evening it was calm, which enabled me to collect with the tow net a variety of ani- mals chiefly Crustacea - as Monstipes and in abundance. Two or four pelagic species of small fish also oc- curred. 12th S. Lat. 34° 37' E. Lon 18° 14' Wind S. September 1853 Cape of Good Hope At two o'clock in the morning the land was but little nearer than on the pre- vius evening, as it had been calm during the night. Numerous whales surrounded the ship and some sport- ed very near us. The waters were filled with the food of these Leviathans, consisting of small crustacea chiefly. A sounding showed the temperature at 100 f. (near the bottom) to be 66° at Surface 66°. Until nearly 12 o'clock it was nearly calm, and we approach- ed the land but slowly, giving me an opportunity of using my tow-net to advantage. Monstipes, Medusa etc. were taken in abundance, and as we entered False Bay with an increasing breeze, streaks of "red dust" were seen on the surface of the water - which on examination proved to be multitudes of the tad-pole like larvie of Ascidia. The water itself was of a dark red color and looked like Coffee. A few stalks of the large Sea weed (Lamin- aria?) were passed. The small white Albatross, followed is into the Bay, as
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40 September 1853 Simons Bay the Mainland. The country to the East of the Bay is also Mountainous, so that False Bay is bounded on the East and West by high Mountains, on the North by a flat Sandy beach, with a Sand flat and Marshes, and on the South by the Ocean. Simons Town is a little place of about 400 inhabitants, which is spread along the shores of a slight indentation of the Coast on the West side of False Bay, about six Miles from its Head, which is called by the same name - Simons Bay. The shores of this little bay consist of Dune Sand, with here and a rocky ledge projecting above it at low water, with scattered boulders and fragments lying about and upon them. Its bottom is Sandy, with a depth of about from 6 to 12 f. -deepening as the larger bay is approached, where there is a depth from 20 to 40 f. with a coarse sandy or gravelly bottom, containing 41 September 1853 Simons Bay. a few ledges of rock. On these ledges the greater part of the Bay fishing was carried on, and fish of a dozen or more species, chiefly Percoids, were caught. Simons Town is a British Naval Station, which gives it in great measure its vitality. There were buildings of considerable extent in the Dock Yard, and a large hulk (old frigate) anchored in the Bay. During our stay several English Men-of-War were in the bay - as the Meander, Comus, Nabuchodonazar, Hydra, Sybil, etc. There were also a number of about twenty ten or a dozen other vessels of different nations in the bay at a time. The town has two hotels, and the houses are all of the same general character, flat-roofed, painted white, and having a neat appearance. One of the chief Meteorological characteristics of this place is the continuance and strength of the Southerly Winds. During our stay there was a continual succession of gales from the Southward or South-eastward
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September 1853 Simons Bay with intervals of Calm, or variable winds. The gales lasted from 4 to 10 days: - the intervals generally, only one or two days. Consequently, during the month of September, dredging was seldom practicable, and even search for marine animals at low water was in a great measure prevented by the violence of the surf. In October the calms were more fre- quent. During the first part of my stay the investigation of the Natural History of the land, therefore, claimed most of my attention. The "J. Cooper" arrived on the 16th - the Porpoise on the 17th, and the Hancock not until the 20th. I enjoyed the meeting with my friends on these vessels very much, and on comparing notes with those of the officers who had turned their attention to Natural History, I found that Capt. Stevens of the "Cooper" and Lt. Van. Wycke of the Porpoise had collected marine animals with which it had not been my fortune to meet. Lt. Van Wyck and myself immediately commenced the study of the Ornithology of the region 42 September, 1853 Simons Bay. 43 and we soon had specimens of about 24 species shot and skinned, which to- gether with a key of fishes from Ma- deira, and one of various specimens from Simons Bay, and else where; - also the Albatrosse etc. taken on the Voyage, - were sent to Cape Town for transplantation to the United States. In my rambles over the hills I met with some of the Leopards, baboons, etc. so frequently seen here in Summer, but in one instance however I started a "luck" (small red Antelope) - which appears to be not uncommon here as the Hancock's officers shot three or one occasion. The season was too early for many an- imals, otherwise the collections of the land would have been larger. The num- ber of insects was however considerable; - Spiders and Myriapoda were abun- dant; - a scorpion was common in holes under stones; - a number of species of Sr. Celliidae; - and a Scipatus, with two spe- cies of land Planaria. Three Lemaces I bounded, but the land shells, with the exception of two species which live
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44 October, 1853 Simon's Town. on trees, were rare. A land tortoise, two frogs, and several lacertans were common, and a variety of species of snakes, among which were the "Cobra" and "puff adder", were found. The most curious snake was the "blind-worm" (Typhlops ?) In the early part of October I paid with Mr Wright, the botanist, a visit to Constantia, a picturesque and beau- tiful collection of farms where the wine bearing the same name is made. I was most interested here in the extensive growths of pines, which had been imported many years since from Europe and planted in rows, and now afford a valuable supply of excellent timber. All the roads here are bordered with them, pre- senting rather the appearance of nar- dry avenues in a private grounds, than that of public highways. On some of the farms I saw oranges and limes ripe on the trees and lying about under them, as apples do in New England. In the interior 45 October, 1853 Simon's Town of the Cape Colony, oranges are said to be so abundant as to be used as food for the Hogs. At Constantia we saw multitudes of the Guineridae or sugar birds, a family characteristic of the Cape. There were several species, some of which had most beautiful plumage of green, blue and red hues, and others had tails three or four times as long as their bodies. I should remark that at the Cape I saw scarce any of the birds since named by Swainson* as characteristic of the Cape Colony — he seems to have mentioned only those species to which he could affix "Sw."! Toward the end of October I visited Cape Town, a large city situated un- der Table Mountain, and 25 miles from Simon's Town. After visiting places of in- terest I went to the public library, where I saw a copy of Dr Smith's Zoology of South Africa. I was however disappointed to find that the figures represented mostly
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October 1853 Simon's Bay. animals from the interior. An English Regiment, returned from the Kaffir War, was stationed in this city, and with some of its officers I became ac- quainted. On one day I dined with Mr. Eager a gentleman enthusiastic on American topics. The prices, how, were very high, owing to the demand consequent on Australian discoveries. Several American vessels sailed from Cape Town for Boston during our stay at the Cape (as the Sam- tor - Springbok - Silver Cloud etc.) by which we sent letters, packages etc. Some of our officers also left us for home in them, - as Mr. Ames, my assistant - Mr. Baker of the Vincennes, Mr. Lea of the Kennedy, and Messrs Dumbar and Dodd, of the Vincennes. After a stay of about three days I left C. Town in a buggy for Simon's Town, in a gale of wind. On the last half of the road, which runs along the coast, the wind was so violent that I was obliged to "leave to" in the squalls - especially on a broad sand October 1853 Simon's Bay. 47 flat bordering on the sea, where the quick-sands permeated with sea water demanded quick passage. During this month the weather allowed of collecting Marine animals, both by dredging and by searching the rocks at low water - the sandy beaches pro- duced nothing, as the effect of the sea and surf was too great to allow of worms, Whelkinds etc., usually found in such situations, maintaining an existence. The rocks however were very fretful. Decapods were rare and few in number only two large crabs (a Plagusia and Cyclagraeus) - no macroura - but numerous Isopods especially Sphio- A Conus was common all over the rocks. Round Worms were not numerous, - the most remarkable were two Sabella, one living in a leathery tube, and of great size - another (Sabella?) forming large masses of its sandy tubes, which looked like coral. Of Mollusks the genera Trochus and Patella were most abundant in species and individuals especially the former, of which six species occurred. A Terebratula was found
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October 1853 Simons Bay under stones at extreme low water. Of other genera Mangelia, Turpura, Salis-tio, Mytilus, Pisurella, Clita, Marg-mella, were represented by more than one species, and Eolis, Doris, Rissoa, Littorina, Chemniteia, Columbella, Mon-odonta, Kellia, Cardita, Arca, Septen-aria, Turtonia, Phasianella and Ost-rea also occurred. Ascidiae were very abundant and of a large species, which is used as bait in fishing, and called "Rock-bait." Of Echinoderms there were two Astotterria, an Echinus, Asteracanthim, Ophiuroa, and a Comatula. An Asteriscus was very common in rock pools, among sea-weed. The Actinia were exceedingly numerous. By dredging on the sands in about twelve fathoms, at various times I found a few small Decapods, as Hymenosoma (snackides), and Scanthoryx, — a Pagurus, and two Dronice - of the Macroura Galathtea and a Gebia occurred as al-so a rare Hypsyle? Of Mollusks - a large Eledone ?, - a Pleurobranchus was common - a few fine nudibranch occurred on sea weeds, and an Apliyra and Philine were frequently dredged - the latter commonly. The genera of shells Margarita, Cytherea, Pecten, Cardium, Pleu-rostoma, Venus, Calyptraea, Tellina, Jan-vitella, Baususctio, Artemis, Pinna, Margunella, Scalaria, Thyssira, Denta-lium, Lepton, were found. Of the Echinoderms there were here a Spat-angoid, an Astrepecten and an elongated Ophiopsis. The nemertine genus Valencinia was taken on sea weeds on the sandy bottom, and a Chetoptera occurred in one instance. The Amphipoda were abundant. But another kind of submarine ground remains to be noticed, the products of which were quite different from the above. There were the patetes or lepdes of rocky bottom. They were often difficult to find, being small in extent, but by sharp land marks I was usually able to strike upon them without long search. The Crustacea here were peculiar, as the large lobster (Palinurus Lalandei) which is eaten by the inhabitants :- a genus,
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October 1853 Simons Bay probably new, of deep-water Partieno- piens, allied to Euryome - also some curious species of Leachia and Ani- thura, with numerous Amphipodo and a remarkable new genus of Cycgenoids. Of worms there was a new genus of Aphroditacee, a Euphrosye, large Eunice, a Tectw- nella, Siphonostomum and Phasco- losoma. Among the Mollusks were a true Tritonia also the genera Trockus, Pecten, Calyptrae, Modiolaris, Serebratula, Hiatella, Anomia and a great variety of Bryozoa. The most beautiful object taken was a large Astrophytus, 3 1/2 feet in diameter when extended: the Cor- atula were so abundant that they sometimes formed the rubbish a - monst which I searched for valua- bles, and a black-dotted Echinastm was sometimes found. Among polyps a Gorgonia and a Halyonim oc- curred, also a few specimens of a solitary coral, like Turbinolae. Having the use of a room ashore, October 1853 Simons Bay. conveniently situated near the water, I set up my microscope and spent some weeks in making drawings and descriptions of these animals, which were obtained by frequent wading and dredging excursions. The rocky ledges are also the fishing grounds. The fishermen are generally colored men, who go out when the weather permits in strongly built open row-boats, shaped like a sloop-of-war's launch, but much smaller. They fish either on the bottom or in said water - as the fish happen to swim, with rather small lines, single hooks, and me- dium sinkers. While at anchor on the fishing ground, the oars, which are large and heavy, are stuck oblique- ly upward out of the boat; giving them a singular appearance. Boating in Simons Bay is carried on chiefly for the purpose of lightering or landing cargoes; the boats are all heavily built, of two or three, sometimes tie tons burden, slop rigged with the
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52 November 1853 Simons Bay job stay fastening to the stem, and the foot of the mainsail reaching only to the taffrail, there being no main-boom. The small ves- sels used in trading along the coast are cutters-rigged. At least one-third of the popula- tion of the vicinity of Simons Bay are colored people, of which more than half are Malayas (Malays). There seem to retain many of the cus- toms of their own country, for they hold regular meetings for self-tor- ture and worship of their Gods, and invariably wear the Chinese hat which is some two feet in diameter and looks like the tip of a pagoda. I saw one of these men run a darning-needle twice through his own tongue - for a sixpence each from three of us. Mr. Storer gave me a large mole (a foot or more in length) which Mr. Stuart jr and himself had killed near its hole. This explained to me the origin of the larger piles 53 November 1853 Simons Bay of cylinders of sand which I had seen in such abundance in some regions, especially near Constantia. These piles were often a foot in height, and consisted of sand which, when not broken, could be seen to have been passed through a tube of same kind. This is the sand thrown or rather pushed up by the mole in digging its holes. The time for our departure was now near at hand; the "J. Hancock" and "J. Cooper" having sailed on Oct. 21st. Lt. Van Mycke submitted to me some twenty or forty well prepared bird-skins, of many species, which he had recently collected. Many of these, a dozen or more, were species not yet in the collection, and among them were some remarkable species. On the 5th the Squadron was put un- der sailing orders, and no further com- munication with the shore was allowed. But contrary winds detained us until the morning of the 7th when we casted the anchor at 5 o'clock and stood out of False Bay, and to the S. with a fair wind.
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November 1853 Southern Ocean of the tow-net, and had good success. During the day I found many Medusae, as a Mesonema, Physalia utriculus? and another Physophore - or Firola, an Atlanta, several Calanoid Crustacea and a few Amphipods and in the evening Cuviera, Cleodora, Ny-aloe, a few Stomapods, also many young looking Monstapes and a Loza probably its larva, as it was of the same color etc., and much smaller. (See specimens and descriptions) 12th S.Lat. 37°21' E.Long. 17°4' Wind S.W. Av. 6 kn. In the evening I took a few Crustacea and Pteropods in addition to those caught last evening. 13th S.Lat. 38°38' E.Long 21°15' Wind S.W. Av. 5 kn. The last of the common form of D. fuliginosus? (V-17) were seen today. 14th S.Lat. 38°40' E.Long. 24°8' Wind S. Av. 5 kn. The sea assumed a dark green color 8-day. The tow-net took a large Firola at noon. 15th S.Lat 38°06' E.Long. 24°50 Wind SE. Av. 2k The log-book shows a violent current at this spot, - to the N.W. at the rate of 67 miles in 24 hours. The wind being very light Mr Brooke sounded from a boat, to the remarkable depths of 1100 fathoms, but failed to recover his line, probably owing to the strength of the current. The tow-net took several Medusa, an Aglona, a Mesonema, Besse, Aurelia, etc (See my notes) 16th S.Lat. 38°47' E.Long. 24°42' Wind S.E. Av. 7 kn. The last of the white-breasted petrel of the Cape (V-23) were seen today. 17th S.Lat. 41°14' E.Long. 26°06' Wind E. Av. 7k The "Whale-bird" (probably the blue petrel of Cook) was very abundant about us today. 18th S.Lat. 42°36' E.Long. 28°19' Wind W Av. 7 kn. At nine o'clock there was a calm for an hour or more, when the westerly winds of these latitudes strikes us for the first time in the form of a gale which soon brought us to a close-reefed main top-sail and reefed foresail & J. topsmast staysail, under which sail we steered on our course in the tremendous sea which soon arose. 19th S.Lat 42°59' E.Long. 31°51' Wind W. Av. 8 kn. The gale moderated considerably 8-day.
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November 1853 Southern Ocean. 60 30th S.Lat. 42°32' E.Lon 77°30' Wind N.W. No. 8 Today the gale abated and the Sea becomes much smoother. December 1853 1st S.Lat. 43°06' E.Lon. 81°29' Wind S.W. No. 9k A hawk-like bird, with short broad wings having a light yellow transverse stripe across them, and elsewhere of a brown color, was first seen Today and made its appearance at intervals for some time afterward. It flew by flap- ping its wings, unlike the Albatross and other birds of the petrel family. It seemed to derive its food from the other birds flying in our wake, by attacking, especially the large ones, and making them disgorge their food. It agrees quite well with Capt. Cook's account of the "Port Egmont hen" 2nd S.Lat. 42°48' E. Lon. 85°36' Wind N. No. 9k The two-net took a Cleodora and a Hyperine Amphipod. 3rd S. Lat. 43°14' E. Lon. 89°17' Wind N. No. 8k. The last of the whale-birds were seen 4th today. A terrific squall passed near us a little before sunset, and December 1853 Southern Ocean. 61 although one extremity only passed over us, we were twice obliged to send her fore it under bare poles. S.Lat 43°59' E.Lon 90°08' Wind N.W. No. 9k 5th S. Lat. 44°30' E. Lon 97°48' Wind N.W. No. 8k. The wind is very strong today and obliges us to reduce sail considerably. The last individuals of Procellaria Capensis and of the little Cape Carie (K26) were seen today. A bird appeared in numbers today which seems different from any we have seen resembling most V-23. = Everywhere brownish above, greyish-black on the top of the head and at the back of the bill below as well as above. Below, breast & part of neck white, wings brown with a whitish spot posteriorly near their extremities. Tail black below near the tip. A bird resembling V-19 has been about since for the last two weeks but more leaves us almost entirely. One was caught - see V. 106 6th S. Lat. 44°48' E.Lon. 102°43' Wind N.W. No. 9k. In the evening we had the pleasure of witnessing a fine display of Aurora Australis.
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December 1853 Southern Ocean. 62 7th S. Lat. 44°33' E. Lon. 107°44' Wind N. Av 9 k Today a bird was seen which was new to us. It was of the size of the Diomedea chlororynchus? (r-20) but had longer and more arcuated wings, and looked like a large Shearwater. Wings black above and below; neck white above; head with greyish sides; tail-cover white. Bill large. Another bird, also new to us was seen 8-day. It had the appearance and flight of the "Whale Bird" and was a little larger than the Cape Pigeon. Wings long, arcuated, brown above and below. Body grey above; - below, neck, breast and tail white. Tail above white. Head white, with a black longitudinal line over the eyes, and a black bride under the chin. At a quarter past six in the after-noon we crossed the Antipodes of the Meridian of Boston - the true anti-podes of a point some ways to the North of it, near Umbogez Lake in Maine. 8th S. Lat. 45°14' E. Lon. 112°19' Wind N.E 7 km. 9th S. Lat. 46°11' E. Lon. 117°6' " N. 9 km The temperature of the air is now 51° - that of the water 49° - December 1853 Southern Ocean. 63 10th S. Lat. 46°39' E. Lon. 122°20' Wind N. Av 8 km. The bird noticed on the 5th inst, as reserving V-23, was seen for the last time to-day. The most southern latitude passed in this voyage is now reached 11th S. Lat. 46°26' E. Lon. 126°41' Wind N.W. Av 7 km. Today is Sunday, but as usual in this latitude, at least in my experience, the weather permitted neither the perform-ance of Divine Service, nor the Muster of the Ships Company. 12th S. lat. 46°19' E. Lon. 130°11' Wind N.W. Av 6 k. We still pass floating Kelp in consider-able quantities. Each bunch consists of a cluster of elongated fronds like those of Laminaria, radiating from a thick or-rate central stalk. Another of the white-bellied Porpoises was killed today. The weather is now quite pleasant. 13th S. Lat. 46°12' E. Lon. 134°41' Wind N.W Av 6 k 14th S. Lat. 45°42' E. Lon. 139°37' Wind W " 9 k A pure white bird, of the size of D. fuliginosus, but rather the shape of D. exulans, was seen today. While looking at it I could scarce helps concluding that it, and D. chlororynchus? also, were among the numerous varieties
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December 1853 Southern Ocean. (if varieties is a proper term for several forms seen in these latitudes) of D. juliginosus. 15th S.Lat 45° 45' E.Lon 144° 27' Wind S.W. No. 7k. 16th S.Lat. 45° 01' E.Lon 148° 29' » W » 9 » A cast for temperature was taken with the following results Surface t.= 54° At 100 fms = 50° At 500 fms = 46° 17th S.Lat 42° 53' E.Lon. 151° 55' Wind S.W. No. 8k. Having passed the southern point of Van Diemen's Land we now began to haul up to the Northward. A small "Mother Cary's Chicken" was seen today, of a species new to us, but very much resembling V-24. The water has a greenish tinge. 18th S.Lat. 40° 14' E.Lon 154° 9' Wind SW No.7k. Sunday. In the evening the strong S.W. wind, which has done us so good service for some weeks past, left us, and we enter the region of variables. 19th S.Lat. 38° 5' 9" E.Lon 154° 11' Wind N. No. 5k The temperature is now 64° - that of the water 62° 20th S.Lat 38° 47' E.Lon 152° 20' Wind N. No. 3k. December 1853 Southern Ocean The calms now give me an opportunity of using the tow-net to advantage. At noon I took a Salpa, a Velella, a small Phly salia with apicial vesicles separate from its regular Vesicle cluster, and a Sinular blue or glaucous Distoma which was common on little sticks etc covered with Anas life. A very remarkable Stenapod was also taken. 21st S.Lat. 38° 01' E.Lon 152° 34' Wind E No. 3k In the evening the tow-net took a variety of interesting animals. Hyperides were chiefly abundant, both in species and individuals. Stenopoda, of the usual genera many Stenapoda, and a Phylliroe also occurred. During the day time three species of Salpa (one a singular tentaculiferous form) and a Scitoa of large size, and a few discoid Medusae, were taken. 22nd S.Lat 36° 20' E.Lon. 152° 14' Wind N.E. No. 4k. Our progress is now much hindered by calms which however afford me an opportunity of increasing my collection of pelagic animals. Many forms were added to those already taken, the Hyperides still maintaining their ascendancy. The birds have now all left us, the albatross being last seen.
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December 1853 South Pacific Ocean. The sky at evening now begins to assume the seen appearance peculiar to trop- ic or subtropical regions. 28th S. Lat. 34° 55' E. Lon 151° 10' Wind Variable 2kn. At noon the coast of New Holland or Australia, was in sight to the westward. It had the appearance of low land, forming a succession of clumps along the horizon, with considerably uniform- ity of height. Today a Salpa, flaccus, a few Crusta- cea, and several curious pelagic fish (Scopeli etc.) were added to those species already taken on this coast. 24th S. Lat 34° 52' E. Lon 151° 58' Wind N.W. No 6 In the afternoon as we neared the land, a petrel was seen flying ahead of the ship instead of astern over the wake. It was of a brown color, or greyish- brown; size of our Gull petrel, an "Mottin Cary's Chicken" but more slender, and with sharper wings, as in the whale bird. At sunset we were within a dozen miles of the land, which was but little elevated, and the nearest points appeared of a rusty brown color. A hot wind came off from the land, bringing with it innumerable insects, many of which sought refuge on the ship, and others having fallen into the water were taken with the tow-net. There were butterflies of four species, two kinds of moths, three of Libellulae, many wasps and flies, and a dozen or more species of Calesptera. While we were en- joying this scene, the wind suddenly shift- ed to the Southward and Eastward, and blew most violently, so that we were soon reduced to close reefed topsails and trysails on the off shore tack. The storm ceased however, soon after midnight. 25th S. Lat 38° 50' E. Lon 151° 52' Wind Vbl. No 4k. Sunday. Today is Christmas, but we are disapp- pointed in our hopes of eating our Christ- mas dinner ashore. The entrance of Port Jackson, with the lighthouse, was however visible in the afternoon, when it unfortunately fell calm, preventing us from reaching the port this day. 26th At daylight we commenced beating in to the mouth of the harbor, which
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68 Port Jackson N.S.W December 1833 we entered at eight o'clock; and at nine we anchored below Garden Island, and a- bout 2 1/2 miles from the town of Sydney. The harbor is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen, the verdure descending to the water's edge. It is so land locked and its waters are so smooth, that it more resembles rather the appearance of a pond of fresh-water than an inlet of the sea. It is a long, crooked bay, with a series of beautiful coves along each shore, and containing many small is- lands. The depth of the water is every- where nearly the same ( from 9 to 12 fms) these being only one shoal in the har- bor (the sea and pipe, near the entrance) so that for the purposes of commerce it is one of the finest in the world. In the afternoon I took a boat and examined the shores. They were com- pounded of horizontal strata of a coarse but uniform Sandstone, which was worn into the most singular shapes by the action of the waves, which rise and fall here from 6- to 8 feet. The rocks of the 1st and 2nd Subregions (which only were un- covered this afternoon) were inhabited by several species of Crusts of medium size, of the genera Grapsus, Cyclograpsus? Cancer etc and a great variety of littoral mollusks, of the genera Trochus Monodonta, Merita Purpura, Littorina, Siphonaria and Patella there being in all about eight species of these genera, all very common, and all of about equal size (the Littorina excep- ted) - three-quarters of an inch in diameter. A small dark green Asterina was also very common; and a Nemertes and a few Amphipods (Macrostus) were found. A little gregarious bivalve resembling Venus gemma was very common. On returning to the ship a dredge-full of the mud which forms the bottom of the harbor in 8-12 f. produced two sidigular Spinous Holothurice, a long-armed Ophiopsis, a Chetopterus, a common purple Astropecten and several worms and Amphipoda. In the evening, together with several of the officers I went into one of the coves and had a swimming excursion, and landed at a place where a fine Sandy beach extended for half a mile be- tween two rocky promontories
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70 December 1853 Port Jackson N.S.W. 27th This day was spent in the city of Sydney, which I found to be a large place of 60.000 inhabitants, and having fine buildings, - the private residences even, being built of sandstone. Through the kindness of Mr Sked, one of the clerks of Mr Clark, the American Consul, I visited the shop of Mr Wilcox, Natural History dealer, whom I found to be a man of information, and I spent several hours very agreeably in examining the curious forms of Mammalia and birds peculiar to Australia, of which Mr W. had a very full collection. He also show me a number of species of oceanic birds of the southern hemisphere, described by Gould and others, by which I find that the number of species is much greater in the Southern Ocean than I had been led to suppose from what I saw on the passage. The English ship Akbar, which ship we spoke on the 24th Nov. in 60° E. Lon. arrived here today, we having beat her by one day. 28th Today I went on a dredging excursion to the mouth of the harbor, with Mr Wil- 71 cox, in my little sheel iron boat the “Jolly Wog” we visited the celebrated Trigonoid locality, near the “Saw and Pigs”, and dredged, besides many living Trigonoids, some 30 or 40 more species of shells, very many crustaceans and a few Amelides. (See notes.) One of the most curious animals obtained was a marine leech, with actions precisely like those of the common fresh water leeches from which it differed in its small size and the hardness of its pappillated skin. This forie, however, escaped. The bottom at the locality was a clean Shelly Sand, - the depth about three fathoms. 29th I spent this day in the city, examining Wilcox’ collection. That gentleman gave me some curious accounts of some naturalists whom I had long known by reputation, but did not dream of finding “in propria persona” in this part of the world. He informed me that Mac Leay, the originator of the Circular Theory of Classification in Natural History, was now residing at this place, and that Swainson who carried out that theory so fully in Zoology (see his works in Lardner’s Cyclopaedia) was now
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December 1853 Port Jackson, N.S.W. wandering in these parts, poor and neglected, though still helplessly busying over Zoological subjects, though old and past active and useful labor in the field of science. As I listened to Wilcox' account the conceit entered my mind that these two men were banished, as it were, from the Scientific world of the Western & Atlantic shores, for the great crime of burdening Zoology with the false though much labored theory which has thrown so much confusion into the subject of its classification and philosophic study. In the afternoon I visited the officers of a new French Clipper Ship now lying in this Port by whom I was treated with the extreme politeness so characteristic of Frenchmen which contrasts so strongly with selfish and often contemptuous silence of English crew when meeting gentlemen having no formal introduction, and with the awkwardness of Americans in a similar situation. This night I speak ashore at the Royal Hotel, where I met two or three gentlemen from Boston, one of whom had resided in Cambridge, close to my fathers residence. December 1853 Port Jackson, N.S.W. 30th Today I had an opportunity of examining the shores of the harbor at a low spring tide. I investigated chiefly at Garden Is. The species of invertebrata obtained were too numerous to catalogue here, (for full descriptions or notices see notes) The Opisthobranchiata were large, and behaved with an activity which was to me quite astonishing. Some of the Acidians were six inches in diameter, with apertures nearly an inch square. Large Chitons and a large Chitonella were very common, as were also Trochi, Parmophori and Tritons of considerable size, and a pretty pink Pleurobranchus. Two species of Echinis lived just below low water mark. Crustaceans were not very abundant. In the evening I went with our Commodore and a few of the officers, to visit and dine with Sir Charles Nicholson, who is probably the chief literary man in the country. He had a splendid library, a Botanic garden etc., and his agreeable manners enabled us, together with the other gentlemen present, to pass a very pleasant evening.
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74 December 1853 Port Jackson N.S.W. 31st This morning I visited the Sydney Museum (of Science) where I found a very scientific man—Mr Wall, curator of the Natural History Department. He showed me many interesting shells, and many unique cetacean skeletons, among which latter were a perfect example of that of Catodon australis, which was of great size and mounted outside of the building,—and also one of his new genus Euplotoses. He gave me copies of the work in which this latter genus was described for distribution among our naturalists at home, and for myself. He gave me an account of his reasons for suggesting the application of a propeller to steam vessels on the same principle as that forming the motive or gain of the whale, namely, the tail. He complained of the contempt with which his own countrymen had treated this attempt to make principles taken from nature serve in art, and extolled the Americans for the encouragement always given by them to efforts to make improvements in the mechanic arts, however problematical they might appear to a super- 75 December 1853 Port Jackson N.S.W. ficial observer. He also showed me a copy of one of the first numbers of a scientific journal now published in this part of the world (Melbourne, Vol. I. No. 2) which contained an account of the Australian fresh-water Entomostraca, with a few coarse figures, by Rev. Mr King of Sydney. The genera showed a great similarity of the Entomostraca of this country to those of Europe. Mr Wall treated us (Miss Wright, Storer and myself) with great politeness; and after leaving him we went to see Mr Mac Leay, who lives in a large house, having extensive grounds, situated beyond the town of Wolloombooloo. He treated us with kindness, and showed us his fine collection of insects, and the plants of his large garden. He appeared to care little for marine invertebrate, and on the whole I was not much interested by my visit. He is a man of immense general information, having a remarkable memory, and is equally versed in Zoology and Botany. He is now about 80 years of age, and his working days are over. He is possessed of a very large property but is said to be very parsimonious.
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January 1854 Port Jackson, N.S.W. and particularly anxious lest any one should trespass on his grounds. Today I made one of several visits to the Botanic Garden of Sydney, which is very extensive, and much resorted to by the citizens. It is arranged and cared for in a very scientific manner, each tree and plant having its name plainly set on a board at its foot. In the center of the garden I noticed the tomb of Cunningham. 1st Sunday Today the Commodore, Mr Bozps, Mr Kern, and myself, with Mr Clark and another gentleman, formed a party to visit the Monument of La Perouse at Botany Bay. After a ride of about seven miles through a sandy country, and passing through a grove, we arrived at the Sir Joseph Banks Hotel (named after the great naturalist who accompanied Cook on his first voyage, and who landed here). After a good dinner, of which Boston ice was no unwelcome concomitant, we took a boat and proceeded down the Bay. Its opening is rather wide; and A the shores, shallow, presenting, at low water, many broad sandy beaches, which abound in a Zosteria, like ours, which affords food to numerous Trochi. The 2nd subsection is thickly strown with a large Carithrium. We landed on a smooth sandy beach near the entrance of the Bay, and while the rest of our party walked up the hill to the monument, I searched, with the help of a spade, the sand near low water mark, and found a few crustacea and many very interesting worms. (See notes.) A pretty little crab, of a sky blue color (Myctine longiarus) lives in crowds on these shores at about half tide mark, in holes; - it corresponds to our fiddler or soldier crab (Gelasimus vocans). After a pleasant sail back to the Hotel, we returned in one carriage to the city of Syd- ney, where I was happy to hear that the British Surveying ship "Herald" had arrived from New Caledonia, during our absence. 2nd. The average temperature of the air, du- rng the day, in this Port, is 70°, that of the water 70°. The wind usually from the Northward. 3rd. Today I went to the city, and after at-
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January 1854 S. Pacific Ocean is, beside his zeolotical duties, engaged in obtaining vocabularies of the languages of the different islands he visits, and also in preparing an account of the voyage for publication. 7th We are now under sailing orders, and remain on board, waiting for a fair wind. 8th Sunday. At sunrise we got underway and pro- ceeded down the harbor, but the wind failing, we anchored outside of the "Sow and Pigs" At noon however a stiff southerly breeze spring up, and we got underway again at one o'clock and stood out of the harbor and on our course to the eastward at the rate of six knots per hour. 9th S. Lat. 33° 14' E. Lon 154° 45' Wind S.E Av. 7 k. 10th S. Lat. 31° 41' E. Lon 158° 15' " " " 6" At noon we made Lord Howes Island, and spent the afternoon in passing it. It consisted of two very high, round-topped mountains, with almost perpendicular sides, with some low land extending from them to the Northward. Balls Pyra- mid, a high, needle-like rock, was seen to the Southward of the Island. Flying fish be- gan to be seen in abundance, a very large species (10 inches or more) bright green on the back. A few petrels are flying about a- head of the ship, of the size of the Cape goose, and mode of flight of the "whale-bird" They are of a dark grey color, except their white breasts and the inner part of the inferior surfaces of the wings. In the evening specimens of the curious crustacean Lencifer, two Chodera's and a Fiola were taken. 11th S. Lat. 30° 01' E. Lon 157° 52' Wind E Av. 6 km. In the evening I took multitudes of a pale- pink Zoae and several Monstipes. 12th S. Lat. 28° 22' E. Lon 160° 03' Wind E Av. 4 k. The temperature of the air is now 76°, that of the water 78°. A Phaton with a reddish bill, white body & tail, black feet, and with the tail nearly as long as the body, has been flying over and around the ship today. 13th S. Lat 28° 08' E. Lon 160° 10' Wind NE Av. 4k. We have been passing over the pinnions of and looking for the reported Middleton
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January 1854 Coral Sea Island and Shoal, but can find nothing of them 14th S.Lat 26° 41' E. Lon 139° 39' Wind E. No. 5 k. looking out for reefs. We caught a large Chascharias (4½ ft.) of which I made a drawing by measurements. A small turtle, about 8 inches in length was seen floating, apparently prevented from diving, (to effect which it made violent efforts) by the crowds of Anatisæ which adhered to it. 15th S.Lat 26° 26' E. Lon 139° 01 Sunday Wind NE No. 6 k. In the evening the first boobay was seen which had occurred on the voyage. At midnight we were suddenly found to be in shallow water. The ship was immediately got round, but the sounding line gave as low up 15 fathoms before we got clear of the shoal. 16th S.Lat 24° 01' E. Lon 139° 27' Wind E. No. 4 k. We found today the shoal met with last night, and passed over it in 50 fathoms at noon. I tried the dredge, but could not make it reach bottom – the ship going too fast. On examining the specimens brought up by the lead last night I find them 82 January 1854 Coral Sea to consist chiefly of broken encrusting Mul-lipores; worn fragments of broken shells, and a trace of coral. 17th S.Lat. S.Lat 23° 43' E. Lon 139° 53 Wind E No.8 k A few Phatons were seen today. 18th S.Lat 21° 59' E. Lon 160° 27 Wind E. No. 6 k. The air is now 88° the water 80° 19th S.Lat: 21° 03' E. Lon 160° 11 Wind E No. 4 k. Today the long fin of some fish was seen projecting some two feet out of the water. The sailors think it the dorsal fin of a Sun-fish. It was perhaps that of some such cetacean as that mentioned somewhere in the An. & Mag. Nat. Hist accompanied by a figure of the fin as seen on the water. 20th S.Lat. 20° 07' E. Lon. 160° 31 Wind C. No 2 k Today we passed over a shoal. At one time in the morning, we were hove to at a spot where the depth was about 15 fathoms. The water was so clear that the bottom was distinctly seen, in dark and light patches. We caught a number of a large species of spardid fish, called Propper by the sailors, in consequence of which the shoal was called the "Propper Shoal" I had sever 83
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84 January 1854 Coral Sea at good hauls of the dredge, and got a variety of objects of interest. There were dead corals of Meandrina and Astrea, and living Gorgonidporo several small but interesting worms two or three crustaceans and a large number of shells, but few of which however were living. There were 12 species of Bivalves and 105 of Univalves. A Comatula, Ophiolopis, and a few polypes made some representation of the Radiata. The bottom was a coarse shell and Coral sand, with a few branching mullepires and occasional large fragments of coral, upon which grew a few algae, among which a green reticulated species was most prominent. In the afternoon it fell nearly Calm. 21st S.Lat 19°58' E. Lon 160°36' Nearly Calm. 22nd S.Lat 19°50 E. Lon: 161°21' Wind N. No. 3 kn. Sunday In the morning we noticed masses of a greenish vegetable scum floating on the water On placing a portion of this under the Microscope I observed among it Conferva like tubes, and other organisms of which I made a sketeh which see. 23rd S.Lat 19°31' E. Lon 162°07 Wind N.E. No. 6 kn. We have for some time been keeping the lead going almost constantly, especially. The patent-lead, which indicates the depths by the pressure of the water acting upon a cork floating in a graduated tube, is used, and with remarkably accurate results... At midnight as the Chains were manned to set a cast a man fell overboard, but saved himself by cluding to the part of the line which he had in hand. 24th S. Lat 18°24' E. Lon 162°05' Wind N.E. No. 5 kn. The sun is now vertical, and we are having a continual succession of squalls of rain, calms, and light winds, while the weather is excessively hot. 25th S.Lat 18°02' E. Lon 162°45' Wind N.E. No. 4 kn. In the afternoon, near Sundown, as we were steering with the ship's head to the West ward, we suddenly found ourselves on a shoal ridge - the depths could not have been more than 8 fathoms, but before we could get a sounding we were over 85
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86 January 1854 Coral Sea the reef and into deep water again. We kept on our course, though we saw the reef running parallel to our course, a mile or two to windward. 26th S. Lat 17°13' E. Lon 162°18' Wind NE Av 3k 27th S. Lat 16°20' E. Lon 161°34' Wind NE Av 3k I am now engaged in working up the materials obtained at Sydney, having a small place screened off to work in, near one of the gundeck ports. Today a curious circumstance happened, which shows how frequently errors regarding the geographical distribution may occur. At noon the officer of the deck sent for me, and upon coming up he pointed out to me a bird sitting on the water some distance astern, which we had just passed. He regarded it as a penguin, in which opinion other officers concurred. It made no attempt to fly, had I first seen, where it had probably risen, under the stern of the ship. As it went astern it had, in the opinion of many of those "who had sailed," precisely the look of a penguin of the Southern latitudes" I had some 87 January 1854 Coral Sea difficulty in persuading the officer of the deck that it could scarcely have been a penguin as this spot did not accord with its known distribution; however he, in consequence refrained from marking it on the log-slats. Nothing more was said, - but the next day the Steward reported that one of his chickens "flew clean out of the port yesterday" at noon. 28th S. Lat 15°38' E. Lon 161°29' Wind NE Av 2k Frequent calms 29th S. Lat 15°16' E. Lon 161°46' Wind E Av 3km. Sunday Several small sharks (K 101) and a Bonita (K 107) were taken today, of which measurements and sketches were made. 30th S. Lat 13°40' E. Lon 162°24' Wind E Av 3k Temp of air now 88° - of the water 84° 31st S. Lat 12°57' E. Lon 162°59' Wind Wbl Av 2k Nearly calm. In the afternoon Mr Brooke took a book by order of the Commodore, and at some little distance from the ship, took a deep sea sounding, using cod-line and his contrivance for obtaining a specimen of the bottom, which he did obtain, cure that from a depth of 2150 fathoms. The specimen
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88 January 1834. Western Pacific was afterward submitted to me. I found it to consist of a soft grey calcareous ooze or mud, containing numerous minute foraminifera in a chalky state, scarce fit for determination, (See figures and notes) February, 1834 1st S.Lat. 11° 29' E.Lon. 168° 31' Wind Vbl. N to 2k. This afternoon the Northwest wind sprung up and set us along at about three knots. 2nd S.Lat. 11° 37' E.Lon. 165° 06' Wind NW. N to 6k. We now enjoy a fine breeze, and as we are approaching the Santa Cruz group, the ship was hove to at night. 3rd S.Lat 11° 43' E.Lon 166° 49' Wind NW. N to 5k. In the morning we saw land to the Northward, and to the Eastward. The former was the island of Oury, the latter Vanikoro, famous for being the place where the unfortunate La Perouse was shipwrecked, and never heard of afterward. It was a lofty island, but not much broken into peaks, there being only one prominent one, on the South east side. A strip of bright green extended along the shores. We approached within six miles, when the 89 February 1834 Pacific Ocean ship's Company was mustered and a tribute paid to the memory of La Perouse. The Commodore made an appropriate speech when the French flag was hoisted at the Fore, the American Ensign aft, the royals were struck and 15 minute guns fired. In the afternoon we stood off to the Southward and Westward. Two kinds of blackish petrel like birds were seen flying about the ship. 4th S.Lat 11° 59' E.Lon 166° 18' Wind N.W. N to 6k Standing to the Northward we made the island of Oury, and at Sundown were within 10 miles of it, Vanikoro being in sight far to the eastward. We then tacked and stood to the Southward. 5th S.Lat 11° 36' E.Lon 166° 20' Wind Vbl. N to 2k. Sunday Weather very squally, with tremendous rains. An imperfectly formed water-spout passed near us, which broke up after a 12 pdr was fired. Many Bonitas were seen about the ship, and a large number of sharks, (of K.10) were ogling at us from the bur. ming surface of the water, of which latter a number were caught.
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90 February 1854 Pacific Ocean 6th S. Lat 11° 22' E. Lon. 165° 54' Wind W. Nv 2km. The wind very light, but enabling us to get far enough to the Northward to make the Island "Santa Cruz". Ourly in sight to the eastward. 7th S. Lat. 11° 01' E. Lon. 165° 41' Nearly Calm. Having approached within about 8 Miles of the S.W. coast of Santa Cruz we lay there most of the day becalmed. The natives came off to the ship in their canoes, and bartered their bows, spears, fishing lines, bread fruit, some flying fish, etc., for axes, plane-irons, bottles, and such other things as we chose to offer them. They are of a large and well shaped race, of a very dark brown color, nearly black; their hair is thick and woolly, generally plastered with some white substance. Their canoes are small and narrow, provided with an outrigger and platform, and carry two or three persons each. About a dozen canoes were about the ship at one time, the natives being very eager for barter, and continually crying out Toka! Toka!! (axe or other iron tools) 91 February 1854 Pacific Ocean Nothing however could induce them to come on board, although often urged through the use skills of our interpreter, Rossini a seaman who had resided some years among the South Sea Islands. In the evening getting more to the west- ward we saw Volcano I., a regularly con- cal volcanic island lying to the N.W. of Santa Cruz. 8th S. Lat. 10° 49' E. Lon. 165° 48' Wind N.Nw. Nv. 1km The volcano in activity 9th S. Lat. 9° 40' E. Lon. 165° 19' Wind S.W. Nv. 4.km. At sunrise a small cluster of coral islets (the Mendana group) lying to the N.E. of Volcano I. were seen. 10th S. Lat. 8° 50' E. Lon. 164° 44' Nearly calm with an occasional rain squall. 11th S. Lat 7° 51' E. Lon. 164° 02' Wind light, variable. Weather Squally 12th S. Lat 6° 52' E. Lon. 164° 21' Wind N. Weather Squally 13th S. Lat. 5° 39' E. Lon. 165° 24' Wind N.W. Nv 4km Weather Squally. A Moddy (Sterna) flew on board in the evening and was caught. 14th S. Lat 4° 45' E. Lon. 166° 24' In the morning a light Northerly breeze
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92 February 1854 Pacific Ocean We passed a log, floating on the water which at a distance appeared to have short truncated limbs projecting upwards along its sides like the teeth of a comb. The ship was kept off for it and when close along side the projections were seen to be a number of boobies (Pelicanus Sula) which sat and looked at us without disturbance at all, by our proximity. It. In the afternoon it fell calm, and soundings for temperatures were too low with the following results. Temperature of the air . . . . . . . . . 86° F " " " water at surface .. 86 " " " " " " " 100fms..78" " " " " " " 500 " 48" 15th S. Lat. 2° 17' E. Lon. 165° 39' In the afternoon we got the first feeble Zephyr of the N.E. Trades, which helped us on to the N'd and W'd at the rate of two or three knots. 16th S. Lat. 2° 30' E. Lon. 165° 04' The wind North East: Ship going 5 Knots. 17th S. Lat 0° 55' E. Lon 163° 35' Wind N.E. Av. 2kn. 18th N. Lat 0° 23' E. Lon 162° 41' Wind N.E. Av. 4km. At 5 o'clock in the morning we crossed 93 February 1854 Pacific Ocean the line in lon. 163° E. 19th Sunday N. Lat 2° 05' E. Lon 161° 38' Wind S.E. Averaging 3 knots. In the even- ing a slight interruption of the Trades, calms and a few westerly puffs. 20th N. Lat 2° 35' E.Lon. 161°30' The wind turns round by N to N.E. again. Log averaging 4 kn. 21st N. Lat. 3° 34' E. Lon 160° 09' Wind N.E. Av. 2kn. 22nd N. Lat. 5° 10' E. Lon 159° 55' Wind NE. Av. 5kn. 23rd N. Lat. 6° 18' E. Lon. 159° 07' Wind NE. Av.4kn. We passed today over the position of Mus- graves Is. and at 3 o'clock P.M. descried in the distance to the Northward the Island of Bornabi or Ascension. At night we lay to. 24th N. Lat 6° 41' E. Lon 158° 30' Wind N.E. Av.7kn. In the morning we found ourselves close off the South Side of the verdant island of Bornabi, which appears covered with vegetation in all the luxuriance of the tropics. Its aspect is tempting in- deed, and as we sailed along the coral reefs, we members of the Sci- entific Corps, viewing it from the tops did most heartily lament our hard fate in not being allowed to land for the
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94 February 1854 Pacific Ocean purpose of making observations. In fact many of us feel quite discouraged at our situations: our hopes of exploring in unknown regions being greatly damp- ed when we find we can have chances to land and collect only in sea ports which have been searched for years by collectors in all departments. We remained nearly all day off the island. A whale-ship passed as going in to a capacious harbor on the S.W. side in which two or three others was lying at anchor. A boat (in which were Capt. Rolando and Mr Stewart) was sent to communicate with them, and returned bringing a variety of delicious tropical fruits, with jams, taro, bread fruit Coco-nuts etc. A whale-boat, [illegible] and two a three large canoes, man- ned by Natives and commanded by New-gade whalers residing on the island, came off to us at different times offer- ing their services to pilot us in, which Capt. Rissof refused. The natives are short and stout, black, very ugly, and debauched in appearance, with thick 95 February 1854 Pacific Ocean straight hair. They wear a waist cloth or short petticoat of reeds, in successive layers wound around the body, reaching nearly to the knee. In the afternoon we made sail to the westward, passing between Bornati and the small group of Layon or Low Islands called the Ant Is. At night, hove to. 25th N. Lat. 7°16' E. Lon. 157°20' Wind NE. 7 kn. The Paquete Group in sight to the South- eastward. At night hove to. 26th N. Lat 7°12' E. Lon. 156°04' Wind NE 10 kn. Sunday We now have got well into the strength of the trades, and the steady mo- tion of the ship onward toward her port cre- ates a corresponding cheerfulness on board. In the afternoon breakers were report- ed ahead, and soon were seen in both bows, and on the starboard beam. We had got into a sight of an extensive Coral Reef which was long, narrow, and semicircular in shape. After missing stops once or twice the ship was got around and we saw out and hove to for the night. No land was seen in connection with the reef.
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February 1854 Pacific Ocean 27th. N. Lat. 7°41' E. Lon 155°13' The wind Northeast, ship going seven knots. In the morning we rounded the South- en extremity of the reef, and coasted along its western side for nine twenty miles. At its northern extremity a small low island, perhaps one-fourth of a mile in diameter and twenty feet high, is situated, the reef exten- ding off broadly all around it. This is Bordelaise, which has been placed somew on the chart and is now for the first time properly surveyed. As the day wore on heavy rain clouds came up to windward and we kept off to our course. At night we hove to as usual. 28th. N. Lat 9°18' E. Lon 153°15' The wind Northeast, ship going eight knots. Today we passed over the reputed po- sitions of Dunkin's Reef. At night hove to. The charts of these seas are so very imperfect that it is impossible to run at night with any safety. The most accurate account of the po- sitions of the different Islands and March 1854 Pacific Ocean 97 reefs in the Caroline Archipelago is given in a small work by Mr Cheyne. March 1st N. Lat 11°8' E. Lon 149°52' Wind N.E. No. 9m. Passed Today a school of porpoises. 2nd. N. Lat 12°32' E. Lon 146°39' Wind NE. As 7 kn. At night hove to 3rd. N. Lat 13°26' (at noon) At sunrise the island "Guam" (one of the Ladrones, was seen to the westward, extending to a considerable lengths from North to South. It was covered with steep but not very mountainous, gently terminating in sharp apices. We passed to the southward of it, among some low coral islands with lagoons, and then beat up along its western shore, the wind being ahead. A native of the island came off to us, offering to pilot us up to D'Après Harbor, but his services were refused. At times we were near enough to give the land a pretty close examination. The hills had mostly a barren appear- ance, being of a reddish color; but the vegetation among the rocks along the sea- shore was luxuriant and looked beautifully. Our anticipations were highly excited, but were again doomed to disappointment. We arrived off the Harbor just at Sundown
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March 1854 Western Pacific Ocean 13th N. Lat 20° 13' E. Lon. 121° 52' Wind S. No 6tn Weather fine. Temperature about 83° F. Today we ran through the Baskoe Passage into the Chinese Sea. The Islands on both sides were seen. A few small alba- tines (Diomedea fuliginosa) flying astern. 14th N. Lat 21° 43' E. Lon. 119° 42' Wind NE No 6. Cloudy, Temp. 77° F. Early in the Mor- nings Formosa was seen to the N? We are getting into the cold damp atmo- spheres which herald our approach to the shores of the great continent of Asia. 15th N. Lat 21° 40' E. Lon. 116° 20' Wind N.E. No 8 km Cold, misty and hurred. Temp. 75° F. For the first time we caught sight of a few "Chinese junks",—at a distance four- eve. A pretty yellow land-bird (Sparrow?) lit on board but was not taken. At night being not far from the Chinese Coast we have to. 16th N. Lat 21° 45' E. Lon. 114° 05' Wind N.E. No 8km Cloudy, Temp. 60° F. We passed a large number of Fishing junks, in pairs dragging immense trawls which can only be done with a strong breeze. The first March 1854 Western Pacific Ocean sight of a specimen of the clumsy marine ar- chitecture which prevails in the East was ex- citing indeed. The Coast of China soon came in sight. It looked highly elevated, dark and forbidding, and mostly barren. The water became of a yellow color from its proximity to the mouth of the River of Canton. We passed to the Southward of all the islands, took a pilot and commenced beating up the bay to Macao against a strong wind. At Midnight, finding we could not make head- way against the tide, the ship was brought to anchor. On this occasion, the Commodore himself took the trumpet. 17th Weather pleasant. Temp. 58° F. We got underweigh at 8 o'clock. It took us the whole day and half the succeeding night to beat up to Macao Roads, where we anchored at midnight. 18th At Macao. Weather sultry Temp. 63° We were three miles from the city and communications with the shore was had in "Fast boats" Our Comrade "Fat Jack" supplied us with fresh provisions, in which we luxuriated after so long living on monotonous or indifferent food
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102 China March 1834 I spent the day ashore, walking about, see- ing the people, visiting the ships etc. -- in fact Deriving my first impressions of China. At low water a took a stroll along the beach and rocks, finding a few small unvalve shells, but little of value. Macao seems to be a very poor place for collecting, but is a much more healthy locality than its Neighbor Hong Kong. 19th Fine clear weather; temperature 65° F We started Today for the city of Victoria, on the island of Hong Kong which lies about 60 miles in an N.E. direction from Ma- cao. We beat up for some distance among the islands and anchored for the night. 20th Fine and clear. Temp. 64° F. Today we ar- rived in Hong Kong Harbor, finding it crowded with ships among which was one of our Squadron, the brig "Porpoise" Thanks to the courtesy of Dr Stewart and others of her of- ficers we got our letters which afforded abundant employment for the rest of the day. 21st 22nd & 23rd & 24th Weather very hot. They are having a general overhauling of Rigging & Sails -- ship almost uninhabitable in consequence. 103 Hong Kong China March 1834 25th Taking a fast European-built row-boat with four coolies, at the moderate price of a dollar for the day I made a visit, in company with Mr Wright, to the mainland opposite Hong-Kong, at the peninsula of Kowloon. The shore here are irregular, consisting of little sandy bays separated by low rocky points, which were granitic. These rocks were not very prolific, but afforded various cinipodes of Pollicipes etc., a Neolius or Monodonta, a Purpura, a Littorina and several Crabs. Amphipods were rare, but a large Lygia secured under the stars. The sandy bays were however extremely well populated, especially with bivalves; the coarser sands affording a Dermia and a Maactia in great abundance, and the more muddy places abounding in Veneres of several species, two or three Tellina a Cardium, and than species of Merita a little species of which at most covered the slime in some places. At the bottom of one of the bays a causeway had been built, retaining several square muddy ponds of brackish water, probably for agricultural purposes
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104 Hong Kong China March 1854 Here were extensive patches of mud uncovered by the waters, which was perforated in all directions by the holes of myriads of Sesarmia. At the margin of the water a small Melania was abundant. But the most curious object which we saw here was a fish of the genus Seripthalmaus, which did not live swimming in the water like most of its tribe, but although it could do so when necessary; but remained on the land like a reptile. When we tried to capture it on one side of the water it would skip across over its surface by successive leaps with its tail and pectoral fins, and then run in the same manner over the mud faster than we could follow it. It would also climb up the perpendicular side of a stone or stick and remain there attached by the sucker-like disc formed by its ventral fins. As we walked along the shore of the ponds these fish would spring from under our feet in countless numbers and passing ship across the water, reminding me very much of the jumping of the frogs along the margin of an American ditch. 26th Sunday. This morning Mr Wright and myself went to the large English church of this place, called St. John's; but after waiting some time in the porch, and no one offering us a seat we came away disappointed of hearing service read after so long non-attendance upon public worship which very voyages like our occasions. 27th One of our scientific corps, Mr Foster, being about to leave us, I assisted him in packing up his chemical instruments etc., and he turned over to me such portion of them as I will find useful in Geology, which branch now devolves upon me. Mr F. is one of the most hard working students I ever saw; he is always engaged either in writing, or studying some of the sciences, or modern languages. Of his powers of original invention I am unable to judge; they might very possibly have been developed
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106 Hong Kong, China March 1854 in a much stronger manner under other cir- cumstances than those which have obtained in our Expedition since he has been con- verted with it. 28th. The prevailing "Influenza" has now reached me, and I am now so severely affected by it that I can only remain in my room, and occupy myself with revising a book called "Richardson's Geology" which I had not before seen. I find it to be a good compilation, with excellent wood-cuts, and very comprehensive. 29th. The weather for some days has been cold and damp; the sky continually cloud- ed over. I visited in the afternoon the house employed occupied by our scientific corps while here. It is situated about half way up the side of the Mountain, back of the town, and is very large and convenient, so that each of us can have a room at his service. It is surround- ed by a most beautiful garden, in which the natural wildness of the scenery is tastefully controlled, and the crags and water courses rendered harmonious by art. 107 Hong Kong, China March 1854 30th. Today I am confined to my bed by illness, - a violent cold, cough, and the operation of the medicines given me by Dr Nicol. 31st. I am recovering, but still too sick to at- tend to business. Weather still unpleasant. April 1854 1st In the morning boxes were prepared for the reception of part of my collec- tion, and the packages marked and set ready for stowing in the U.S. Naval Store- house in this place: I also took a lot of bird-skins up to the house on the hill to have them dried, as the dampness of the ship has affected them badly. I also took a boat and went out to dredge, but meeting with a native boat with fishermen, I found more profitable employment in searching the contents of their trawl, with which they were catch- ing various small fish - soles, eels, gobies, etc. In it I found several cuttle fishes (Sepia) crabs (Dromia), a Brossus?, a large Mausix and Ophiolepis. The trawl consisted of a kind of bag-seine terminating on each side in a long rope. The boat was anchored at some distance from wharve
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108 Hong Kong, China April 1854 The trawl was dropped and the ropes then hauls in by men at each end of the boat. With the dredge on a bottom of soft ooze I set Murex tenuipinus and a large Othrea, large Noctiluria of a bright red color; a Lima with a spleen. Did development of Coni occur on a piece of water soaked board. Porcellane of various species were common among the shells etc, and a few small worms in the mud 2nd Sunday As it was rainy I did not attend morning service. In the afternoon I took a short ramble up West hill back of the town with Mr Schen- born. The "Susquehanna" arrived from Japan today 3d As news could not be opened today I set to work myself on my trawl now put out for the first time, and set it ready for use. In the even- ing, to get rid of my cold I took some violent exercise, rolling letonins, which had good effect. Mr Coolidge, our Meteorologist, design- ed today. During the time he has been in the expedition he has seemed to have one grand idea- "Napoleon." The weather now is warm and damp, with but little or no wind. Today I have been able to fathom some of the news brought by the Susquehanna. Com- mander Perry was on the point of making a treaty with the Japanese, opening their ports to our commerce. Much information, in part of a scientific character, had been gained already, and positive surveys were in progress. The Japanese seemed eager to receive the visits of our officers, who are permitted to visit any part of the kingdom. 4th Today I tried the trawl for the first time, on a muddy bottom in the Bay west of Rawbon Peninsula; its success was very satisfactory to me. The bars and heads are however much too heavy for the net, so that few fish were taken excepting very small ones. On the other hand the leads on the lower part of the aperture were heavy and sunk to some extent in the mud, thus taking a great number of the larger invertebrates which are usually taken with the dredge; the smaller animals of course passing through
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180 Hong Kong, China April 1854 the meshes of the net. As the wind was not very strong all sail was required on the Chinese "Sampow" which I used to drag the trawl at the rate of about 1/2 knot. I had a dozen hauls and got a great variety of animals, as follows. Got about 12 species (see V.—Brachyurous Crustacea 13 species of which four were Eupic, and one of the remarkable genus Dorype. Medium two species of Cuttlefish. A Natifo from a Atelesia, Adarius(?) on Dorype) Ccelerus Holothuroids (a new genus prispe Synapta Pennatally? a large white species. For more detailed accounts see Notes. The Chinese saw almost at a glance how to put together and use the trawl, the management of which I accordingly left entirely to them. 5th This day was spent in preserving and preparing the specimens taken yesterday. Com. Ringgold very kindly excused my assistant Pelkey from all other duty, so that I can now have some one to do the rough work connected with my business. In the evening I went ashore and saw some of 181 Hong Kong, China April 1854 the officers of the Porpoise. Their vessel has been hove down for repairs, as she leaked very much during her last passage (from the Cape around Van Diemens Land, via New Island & the Barker Passage to this port) when she lost some of her boats. They have been living in one house on the hill, but are now taking up their quarters at the Commercial Hotel. 6th Weather squally. Together with Mr Wright I took another trawling excursion to the same spot as on the 4th. Besides those mentioned as taken on that day, several others precious species were now found, many of which were very interesting, as two Notothu-nice, a hyaline Ascidia, a large Stylocbus, several fish and shells, a few Decapods among which was two additional Leucosia which kind of crabs seem very numerous in species here. 7th Today I set about copying my descriptions of new species (50 in number) which I had written before we arrived here,) on paper agreeing with that used by the Commodore in his official reports. In the afternoon I visited the Chinese fish-market at-
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112 Hong Kong, China April 1854 this place. The variety of fish was con- siderable, and many invertebrate, as Sepia, large univalves (Tascilaris?) Crabs (a large Scopa - L.Tranquebarica?) etc was exposed for sale, almost every thing living in the sea and of sufficient size being eaten by the Chinese. Mr Wright made an excursion up the hills today and brought me some Helicos, Geboana, Ser- cinio & Manarbes. 8th Occupied in attending to the specimens on hand, and in finishing a copy of my re-port. I hear that Mr Davis, our Gun- nner thinks of resigning. Two of our officers have returned from a visit to Canton, and report that the accommodations there are miserable, and that there is not naval mar to be seen among the Chinese shops etc than in Hong Kong. 9th Sunday I received two letters from home, dated in Aug- ust and September; these had probably been sent to Singapore. In the afternoon I made another attempt to attend Divine Service, but found myself too late, as our dinner hour is at three o'clock and 113 Hong Kong, China April 1854 the service commences early. Sunday seems to be the great parading day here, the streets being filled with English soldiers in various uniforms, with sailors and others, taking their stroll. The Chinese shops are open as on any other day, as Christianity seems but little disseminated among them, although there are several Missionaries here, (chieflly Romanists) and a few places of worship for Chinese converts. The Chi- nese have a large Jook-hoose, and in every shop and every boat, may be seen a small light, or jook-stick, burning before some inscription or other, which is usually surrounded by red and gilded or- naments of various kinds. 10th Another traveling excursion to Kowloon Bay. I have however nearly exhausted this lo- cality, and but few novelties were ob- tained, chiefly shells, and a macropod crab; an interesting Nolegmond also oc- curred. We had a fish lunay prepared in our boat, 11th Spent in looking over Sullivan's Journal and a few other scientific works just received on board, by the Commodore and other officers.
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Hong Kong, China April 1854 12th Dredging in the Channel of Hong Kong Harbor, on a shelly bottom in from 6 to 10 fathoms. Several interesting living shells were attained - Dentalia; Lecca and Me- culla of their species; a large Eulina, etc. two fine Ophirura, a few additional Crabs, an Octopus - and a curious fish- It blew very hard and the operations were conducted with some difficulty, and no little wetting. 13th. Spent in arranging and preparing Specimens. 14th. Being confined to my room by a cold, affecting my lungs, making breath- ing at time painful, and attended with cough (the result of the work of the 12th.) - I took the opportunity to make up my correspondence for the next mail: writ- ing to, among others, MM. Sars, Petit, Dana, and Agassiz. 15th. Prepared some unfinished tracts on the Mar. Ins. of S. Carolina...to send home for publication. 16th. Sunday Today being Easter, the day was observed on shore, and on board numerous ves- Hong Kong, China April 1854 sels in the harbor. We had divine service on board. I am still confined to my room. 17th Working at the copy of my report; and in making lists of animals likely to be met with in the Pacific, from works in my libra- ry. 18th. Mr Kerr and myself went to the oppo- site shore in a Sandpan, and it being a fine day, (the first for a fortnight or more) we enjoyed ourselves much: he, in taking Sketches of the mountains around, the clear weather affording an opportunity; and I in capturing certain pugnacious Ocyxods, of which I found two fine species on the sandy shore, in their holes. On re- turning I hit upon a good method of killing these crabs, as well as other kinds which are in the habit of chew- ing their spite by kicking off their leg and arms when put in alcohol, so as to spoil them for Specimens. A sharp point being introduced into the body at the place where the extremity of the abdo- men is applied, passes directly through the large principal ganglion, or brain, thus putting them quickly "hors de combat" This author is not available in many cases. The best way is to let the acid come down his own throat. (C.W.S. May 1854)
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Hong Kong, China April 1854 19th Austere fine day. I went to the entrance of the harbor, or rather to its northern part, and using the large dredge on a shelly bottom, had considerable success. I had hitherto met with no single Asterias since arriving in China, but today found a Goniaster, a Luidia and an Astropecten. This shows how little our ideas upon the fauna of any locality can be relied upon, unless founded upon constant searchings in all varieties of station, for a period of some length. Had we sailed yesterday I might have left this place thinking that the family "Asteriadae" was not represented here. Many additional species of fish, and a few crabs (as Calappa) were obtained today by boarding the little trawling-boats which were at work in different parts of the Bay. The Chinamen seem to leave no part of the bottom untouched. Among other objects of interest dredged today were a Nalegorium, Vesicularia, small Spogdia, Cornularia etc. Hong Kong, China April 1854 20th Spent in the examination of the polypes taken yesterday. 21st Dredging in the muddy bays up to Ward Cap-sing-Mon Passage. In the trawling boats I found a Luidia two feet in diameter, of which the Solaster of the 19th is probably the young. It had the self destructive propensity of its genus, for when laid upon deck it commenced slowly constricting its arms at various points, towards the extremities at first, and then gradually upwards, thus breaking up by installments of about an inch at a time. By the time we reached the slip, only the disk and short pieces of the disk were left. I also dredged today a large Pisosus? Amphidetus? and several additional Decapods, the species of which in this locality are exceedingly numerous, more so probably than in any other part of the world. Several Ranella of various species were also found. My man "Salvador Felky" now accompanies me on all my excursions. He has no great inclination
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120 Hong Kong, China April 1854 26th The weather still bad. Mr Kern is now absent, at Canton, where he will I fear have an unpleasant visit. 27th The weather now becomes warm and pleasant, the wind being S.W. Today I went down the harbor to Liampo Pass- age, and caught a view of the open sea. She tide runs very swiftly through this passage, the depth being 25 f., and the bottom gravelly. Here I dredged a Comatula, an Asterina?, several inter- esting Actiniae, an additional species of Notothuria, and many other new animals. Dredging was very difficult how- ever, on account of the swiftness of the tide and the nature of the bottom; so that after several difficult cases of "fetching up" we ran in to the rocks of the Hong Kong shore, where as the tide fell, I got many interesting shells; and a Chirodota of the N.E. Arctic type —very active, scarce even retracting its tentacula which it uses in progression— it's skin was also quite tough. Re- turning up the harbor, I found, just 121 Hong Kong, China April 1854 below low water mark, numerous large masses of a bright red spongia, and several long-spined Echini. 28th Taking a row-boat with four men and Pelkey, I went further down the harbor than ever before. In a bay (Coral-bay of my chart see p. 120) N.E. part, I found a considerable variety of corals (Astrea, Madrepora etc.) many of large size, attached to the boulders below low water mark. Among these boulders were two species of "fiche-le-mar" of large size; and on the corals were many small crustacea new to me. On the rocks at Liampo Passage at extreme low water I got a great variety of crustacea, ascidians, shells (as Cypraea Arabia) a new Echinus, and many other species new to me— all found under the stones, which here were very large but easily turn- ed. 29th Today I overhauled and arranged the species of Brachyurous Decapods
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122 Hong Kong, China. May, 1854 There were 60 or 70 species catalogued and among my collections I found a dozen or more additional ones. The devolopment of the family at this point is astonishingly quick. 30th Sunday Having to attend muster, which u- sually takes place during church time (11-14-12-) I cannot attend the latter. May 1st Having had in my mind for some time the idea of making an excursion to the outer islands along this coast, I today proposed it to the Commodore, who agreed with me in its expediency and kindly offered me every facility to giving me the necessary orders to proceed at once, in company with. Mr Wright who was to accompany us. Some hesitation at first. I engaged a boat with eight men, including "John", the boatman I have always hired in my Bay excursions. The boat was shaped like an ordinary "pass-boat" but much larger, and having a trough cabin. Pelkey and Small to accompany us 123 May 1854 Hong Kong, China 2nd Today I made the necessary arrangement for our expedition, setting dredges, trawls, nets, lines etc in order - also a chest of copper kettles, with plenty of alcohol, bottles etc. In subsistence we took live chickens eags, bananas etc in abundance; also the mens rations of beef, pork, and hard tack. with tea, coffee & other small necessaries. As we have strange accounts of pirates infesting the coast, we also got ready my wife and fowling piece, with two carbines from the Armory, our revolvers etc, and plenty of ammunition. The boat is also, provided with a 3 pounder. 3rd We started in the morning, between four and five o'clock, and at breakfast time were some ways below Liancoen Passage Here Mr Wright landed, on May King Island, while I stood on towards the Great Five Islands, and at about 10 o'clock let go my dredge, but took little or nothing; on account of the lightness two wind, we could not get headway on the boat. While thus anchored by the dredge we tried for fish with our deep- sea-lines, at the bottom, but caught no- things although one bait was rapidly taken
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Sketch of Coast and Islands S.E. of Hong Kong Off by Crustacea. While thus at anchor and becalmed, we all at once observed two boats, full of men, coming toward us from the direction of San-tsoo. Our pilot and his men became very much frightened, sup- posing them to be pirates; and we got every-thing ready to give them a warm reception, but after hearing us they steered off and went toward Lochow. A light breeze now springing up, we returned to the junk and took Van Wright and Small on board. In landing we used a little flat-bottomed, low-sided skiff, with paddles. In this I made an unsuccessful hunt along the rocky shore for ducks etc. May 1854 Ning-Hang, China The wind has increased into a good breeze, and we stood out. Commencing to the Northward of Lochow, we dredged and trawled out to sea, near- ly to the Nine-pin Islands. I obtained several novelties; an Astropecten? Lebinia, several rare shells-alive, and a few amphipods and new worms. The bottom was of hard mud; depths 15-20 fathoms. After getting out to sea a considerable distance, but within the Nine- Pin Is. we got nothing in our trawl, at Capentee Rauls, but great quantities of the small fry Echinus, with which the bottom here must be entirely covered. The dredging getting thus uninteresting, and the day draw- ing to a close, we coiled down our dredge- warpes and put the boat about. In running up we boarded a large fishing-junk, which was trawling with her consort in the Bay, and obtained fish and an immense volute, alive. Seeing numerous sea-fowl on a little rock of the N. shore of Hong-Kong, we ran past it and fired away them, with what success we could not ascertain. A dredge-full taken near this rock, on a hard-bottom, gave us two new halyconoid footypes (a Forsia ? Helyoni- um) and a fine Coronula. We then landed
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May 1854 Hong Kong, China in a bay of Hong Kong Island, near by, and were just starting on an inland tramp, when it began to rain violently, and we was forced to return on board. Mr Wright however got a few plants and sea-weeds and I secured a Papuan new to me. We proposed to anchor here for- the night, but the China-men on board fearing the nocturnal attacks of the evil- disposed and piratical inhabitants in the vicinity insisted on running over to the main-land, into a little bay where there is a fishing village where inhabitants are true men,- which we accordingly did, taking our supper on the way. Never was tea so greatful to me as now, when ones appe- tite is roused natural by a day of healthful labor, in the delightful pursuit of the little-known denizens of the deep sea. We had hardly come to anchor in the little bay, before Pelkey reported the "Burn-boat along side"!! Mr Wright and my- selves went ashore for a few minutes, to have a look at the place. He got a few seaweeds and sponges, while I shot a small bird in the bushes and one of our Chinese crew found a crab new to me. May 1854 Hong Kong, China Our men (Pelkey and Small) kept strict watches during the night, while Mr W. and myself re- tired into the cabin, which was clean and com- modious, but I confess I did not sleep much myself, from anxiety arising from being in such a miscreant neighborhood. Thursday, May 4th. We got underway at dawn, according to my orders given the preceding evening, and when I arose we were near the point of Hong Kong Island. The breeze was light S.W. but steady: (it continued to blow from S.W. during the great part of the cruise.) The water was smooth, and the day delightfully pleasant, and we sailed slowly along picking up floating dr. fishes from the surface with our dip net. We passed to the Northward of Lochoo, and between Maylan and Poorkoo. Seeing some boats fish- ing off Poortoy we stood to the Southward and boarded them, getting some curious fishes of different kinds used for food. The fisher- men used the Pollicipes so abundant on the rocks between tides, both for food and for bait. We then landed Mr Wright at the N. end of Poortoy, where I also landed my- selves, but soon found the sun too power.
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ful for me, and came off, bringing a few Littorine &c which I had not before seen. The bottom was rocky on this (the East) side of the island, and from it we dredged up, with difficulty, a few corals. Proceeding along the shore to the South- ward, we saw an accumulation of fishing-boats who seemed at first sus- picious of us, but afterward gained con- fidence. These boats were off the S. point of the island, and upon the point were high, pointed rocks; upon which men were posted, as sentinels to give the alarm on the approach of pirates. We passed through the boats and tried the dredge outside of them but took noth- ing. The fishermen here take a fish of the size and general shape of a 50 lb Cod, by pulling about in mid water a hook baited with a herring, attached to a long but slender grass line. After cruis- ing off the island for some time, I at last saw Mr Wright on top of the ridge (which forms the back bone of the island), making signals to us. I sent the boat drew him in board; he had been quite successful in his collecting. We then put the boats head to the S. Eastward and crossed over toward Grand Lema, taking our dinner on the way. We tried the dredge once or twice: 16-18 fathoms, soft bottom, but took little or nothing. As the wind was light it was late in the afternoon when we arrived off the western shore of the island. We ran into a little cove near the S. extremity of the island, where there was a fishing settlement, with boats of considera- ble size anchored near. Mr W. and my- selves went ashore, but I soon returned, find- ing no land shells. By boarding several of the boats I obtained a variety of fishes, some of which were skinned. They were all put at once into the large alcohol-tanks. In trying the bottom, which was very soft, I lost my smaller dredge, by the parting of the warps. The shores of this island, as in all the others in the vicinity, were very bold, consisting of high rocks of granite or compact felspar. The smooth surface of the latter rock, when not too highly inclined, afforded excellent drying tables for fish, and were used by
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130 May 1854 Hong Kong - China the fishermen for that purpose. The fish we saw thus drying on the rocks were chiefly small fry of the herring-kind. A heavy squall coming up from the S.W., to which quarter the anchorage was exposed, we removed in company with the other boats to the inner part of the cove, where if driven ashore, we should strike on a sandy beach. At sunset the skipper of each boat minutest the taffrail and burnt a large piece of salt-petred paper, chin-Chewing Joss at the same time, and finally letting the paper drop into the water and float it burning. This being done simultaneously in all the boats in the cove, had quite a theatrical effect. Our crew made themselves secure from the rain under their mats, which are kept rolled up as the quarters sailings during the day, and spread over our arched frame-work during the night. Their women, of which there were two in the boat, then prepared their principal meal, which is eaten at this hour, consisting of rice and a variety of dishes of chopped fish, chickens cutlets etc etc: - it was almost 131 May 1854 Hong Kong, China incomprehensible to as where the materials for such a variety could have been obtained. They kept up their temperance conviviality to a late hour, while Mr W. retired to the cabin and I spent the evening in smoking. Friday May 3rd We arose at an early hour. The tide was low, and having been informed by my Chinaman "John" (who had it from the fishermen) that there were "monkeys" on the island who came down to the shore for crabs and shells at low water, we resolved to go in search of them. It being calm we got out the oars and proceeded along the shore to the Southward for some distance, when on a sudden we perceived three of the creatures alluded to sitting on a rock above us. They proved to be Baboons of a large size. Soon after we perceived several other groups of four or five, in all cases sitting on rocks which afforded good points of observation. These surly fellows seemed to be holding a consultation upon our appearance, as they sat in a half circle, pointing at us and then turning to one another with some remark, undoubtedly very witty, from the grins which fol.
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132 May, 1854. Hong Kong, China loved it. We wanted very much to send two butterflies away then, but the rocks were inac- cessible, and even if we had shot one we could not have secured our prize. So we continued on, hoping to see more of them in a place where we could get at them. We anchored in a little indentation of the shore, where a mountain stream of beautifully clear water emptied itself into the sea. Here we fetched a supply of fresh-water, and bought some wood of a man who made his appearance soon after our arrival. While at breakfast I saw a baboon creeping on a rocky ridge not far off, and immediately sent Felkey and Small ashore with carbines to cut off his retreat- while I went in a boat, with my fowling piece loaded with slugs, to the foot of the rock, upon which the baboon now sat in a tranquil state. I had covered the fel- low, who was quite near, and was on the point of firing, when Felkey and Small, appeared coming out from behind the rock not five feet from the animal, which ducked and disappeared under a ledge in a moment. Had I fired it is probable that 133 May, 1854. Hong Kong, China P. and S. would have received a good share of the scattering load I had in the gun. Thus was lost the only chance we had of securing a specimen during the day. The sun having now risen and shining brightly, we looked down into the clear water under our boat, and saw among the various seaweed (Sargassum) a great variety of the most beautiful fishes, thus affording me a sight that I had never before seen. Several kinds appeared in great abundance but to my great mortification no kind of bait that we could offer them seemed to tempt them in the least, so that we could catch but one kind, and that by far the least beautiful of the collection. I then had the trawl net stretched on bamboo, and haul- ed through the weeds, but we soon found that the ground would not allow of the use of nets. The colors of these fishes were so bright and varied that I took notes of them (which may be found in my note-book) notwithstanding I failed to secure a specimen. None of these fishes occur at Hong Kong, they being peculiar to clear water and a rocky bottom; they probably feed more or less on the sea weeds.
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May 1854. Hong Kong, China Mr Wright went ashore and up the valley of the stream for a little distance, but soon returned, having met with little success. He found however a variety of seaweed on the rocks. The Sargassum so abundant here is a slender species, grow- ing often to a length of 8 ft. or more. About 10 o'clock a light breeze springing up, we returned to the fishing settlement, siring on the way at the fish-hawks which were perched on the rocks near the wa- ter. We found that most of the boats had gone out to sea. We returned with the hope of bribing the fishermen to hoist their large square ground-net, which was drawn over by, in hopes of finding it some of the brightly-colored rock-fishes which we had seen along shore, but they could not be prevailed upon to do so. We therefore stood out from the island to the Northwestward. I had intended to have gone outside of this island to try a few hauls of the dredge there, but the wind was so light that I feared setting be- calmed in the afternoon, and failing to make a harbor for the night. We there- May 1854. Hong Kong-China fore stood over toward Sou-kou. On the way, a few hauls of the dredge were made, with out however taking enough to ballast the bay-net. The bottom seems too soft to support animal life to any great extent. Beside a large spinous Cardium, the only noticeable species taken was a Eunice, in habiting a tube provided with long spine- like processes on its upper portion, which may serve to render its position in the soft matrix more firm. This worm had much longer antennae than I have ever seen in a Doritbranchiate, and these probably came into play in the formation of the processes. The accompanying Sketch represents this tube. We frequently passed small buoys to which a staff and flag were attached, and which, we learned from our pilot, indicated the places where the lines of the fishermen were sunk. These lines are provided with a plurality of hooks, and the fish caught with them resemble very much our "Newhaven" and "Slewife" 194 135
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196 May 1854 Hong Kong China Arriving off the Southern side of San Koo, Mr Wright went ashore, while I took a haul or two of the dredge: 14 f. rocks; I took an Ophiura new to me, and a beautiful little spinos Lencoria, a treasure appreci- able only to those familiar with "the game pursued by the deep-sea dredger. I then sounded the east point of the island and put Pelkey ashore to hunt, while the little vessel slid slowly along the high cliffs forming the northern shore, giv- ing me an opportunity of examining its giology. The rocks were highly felspathic and intersected by very numerous thick dykes of trap, inclined at various angles to the eastward, but often nearly from perpendicular. There were some caverns of slight depth, into which a boat might enter. At the N. extremity of the island was an immense mass of rock separated from the cliffs by a chasm of great depth, but five feet only in width. Through this I passed in the skiff, not without danger from the surf, and looking down could see the bottom although the water was very clear. 197 May 1854 Hong Kong China Arrived off the western end of the island & took Pelkey on board, but saw nothing of Mr Wright although I had agreed to meet him at this point. Several shots were fired to attract his attention, and after waiting some time we saw him running down the side of the island, and soon took him on board. He had been more care- ful than at any other place we had visited, and among his collections were a large species of Cyclotoma, and a lot of "Guinea-pigs". We then "bore" carry for Hong Kong Island. Two piratical-looking crafts to the Northward, with Mast- sails and canvas jib, topsail & outrigger, appear- ing full of men, excited our suspicions and were narrowly examined with the glass, but our Pilot soon assured us that they were "Portuguese Lorcha's" a kind of armed trading vessels belonging to Macao. It was after sunset when we arrived off the E. end of Hong Kong, along the North shore of which we proceeded, with a good breeze, sailing closely by the little promon- tories and looking into the sandy coves for a good place to anchor for the
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138 May 1854 May King Chian night. I ordered our pilot to luff up in to one of these coves, which appeared suit- able for our purpose, but this measure pro- ceived so much opposition from our Chinese Crew, who assured us that we could not pass the night there without an attack from the pirates, that we finally let them have their own way, and went again to the little fishing village on the Main, where we had spent the night of the 3rd. Here we came to anchor late in the evening, set our watch and retired. Saturday, May 6th This being the last day of our excursion, (as our provisions were nearly expended) we determined to make the most of it, and had our vessel underway long before daylight. After dredging a little in the bay, I put Mr Wright ashore on the South side of San-too, and then dredged along the shores of that is- land nearly to its eastern extremity; tak- ing two fine large Briesi, and several fine Oliva, alive. The wind today was from the N.E., and had increased to a good breeze; and as it would have taken a long time to beat out to the Nine pin Islands, as I had intended, we took a stretch between the E. point of Samtoo and the island of Waglan, and dredged this line twice. I met with very fair success, but with the exception of certain interesting shells (in- cluding a rare Triton (Persna) of Montfort) the species were nearly the same as those ta- kew on the first day. Having now fallen considerably to leeward, we were obliged to beat up to Samtoo against a fresh north easter, and after boarding a few crawling boats, and passing very closely a school of blackfish or porpoises, we ran into a rocky bay on the S. side of the isthmus which connects the E. promontory or peninsula of Samtoo with the main part of the island. Seeing nothing of Mr Wright, and fearing he had fallen among thieves, I sent Small ashore, well armed, to hunt him up; with directions to go to the highest part of the ridge near us and examine closely the country to the westward, to which Mr. Wrights was advancing when last seen. In the mean time I amused myself by practicing with my rifle and the 139
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140 May 1854 Hong Kong China carlines. The violent and sudden gusts of wind which came off the land almost continually prevented any very accurate shot at objects on shore, but in firing at objects thrown into the water and suffered to float astern, I found this carbine a much more accurate instrument than I had expected. After trying for fish with our lines, without success, went ashore at a little beach at the bottom of the cove, formed of piles of large small stones & boulders, and found here a few water worn cones etc. On the smooth surface of a rock of felspar near by, I noticed several iron-stone geodes. On climbing the little bank which formed the isthmus, I found the sea close at hand on the other side, dashing up with great violence. An immense chasm had already been formed, and the peninsula must soon become an island, by the action of the waves during Hutt's coast sales. Around the summits of the precipices forming the sides of the chasm, numerous black fish-hawks were soaring. 141 May 1854 Hong Kong China It was past noon when Small returned with no tidings of Mr Wright. I had gotten into some little difficulty with three Chinamen, by indulging in undue curiosity with regard to a little joss temple in 'a hole in the side of the hill; and these men would probably have attacked him had he been unarmed. I now began to feel very much troubled about Mr W. and was about organizing an strong party to ascertain his fate at all hazards, when the welcome sight of an individual in his shirt sleeves, coming down the hill with an immense band of shrubbery, at once relieved us of anxiety. Mr W. had been very successful. We then all went aboard and after getting dinner, love up anchor and started for home ie U.S. Ship Vincennes, at anchor in H.K. harbor. The mist and fog had now begun to accumulate, driving before the wind which had now increased into a gale, before which we ran quickly up the bay under close-reefed sails. When we reached Lianwon passage it began to rain violently, and while getting up sheltering mats we ran along side of a fishing (trawling) boat
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May 1854 Hong Kong, China and took out of her several fishes new to me and half a peck of strombo; paying for them in "cash". In Noonoon-bay we anchored in the rain for an hour or more, discharged our fire-arms, got our things packed for disembarkation, and cleared up decks to run into the harbor. We then ran into the harbor under a reefed fore-sail, and arrived alongside the Vincennes at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. So ended the pleasantest and in fact almost the only excursion I have yet made during the cruise. Sunday, May 7th Today the Commodore called me into the Cabin and introduced me to Mr Bowring a relative (so I believe) of Governor Bowring of Hong Kong. He said "Biche-le-mans" were known to occur here in small numbers (I have found them in Coral-bay of chart p.124, to be exceedingly abundant). Monday, May 8th Settled the affairs of the excursion; paying bills, putting away oars, nets, specimens etc. A number of vessels arrive in this port every day, many of them American clippers. Tuesday, May 9th Mr Wright and myself breakfasted with Mr Bowring. He had a collection of nearly 1000 Hong-Kong Coleoptera, most of them described by two or three German Entomologists; to whom he had sent specimens, after having in vain endeavored to get them described in England. Wednesday, May 10th Spent in preparing and arranging the Excursion specimens. Thursday, May 11th Attended to a thorough clearing out and over-hauling of my room and its contents; in so small and crowded a place this is frequently very necessary. Friday, May 12th Went to the Naval Store-house (Mr R. De Sil-ver's) to attend to some boxes etc for specimens. In the Garden I saw butterflies of large size very abundant in species and individuals. Saturday, May 13th Packed and sent ashore Box No 4. Sunday, May 14th Spent on board. I read "Waltair Lives" by the author of works on Angling. It is a
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144 May 1854 Hong Kong, China quaint old book, shewing well the character of the religion and divines in the English Church during the 17th century. Monday May 15th In the afternoon I took an excursion along the flat muddy shores of Hongkong cast of Victoria town, at low water mark. The heat was very oppressive and I could only collect near sunset. I got a great variety of animals peculiar to such localities - many worms, Thecamtius, Tinnece and a number of Venusiform bivalves, Soleus etc. - Foriaster very abundant - the same species that I had dredged in the Atter two [illegible] found in the Channel - Lucina & Arthropecton, usually found in the Channel were here found at l.w.m. It was after dark when I returned. The excursion was made in "John's" pull-away-boat Tuesday May 16th and Wednesday May 17th Made excursions about the harbor among the trawling-boats, got a new Doryffe, plenty of Caliptra and several other inter- esting animals: shewing that with the seasons the character of the fauna in. 145 May 1854 Hong Kong China habiting the bottom had changed somewhat - some species becoming more abundant - others less so. The average temperature during the day now is 17° higher than when my April collec- tions on the same bottom were made; that of the water 12° higher, which would ac- count for the change in the fauna. Thursday May 18th. With the Commodore's sanction Mr Wright and myself made an exchange of some portions of our duties: he taking the duty of collecting insects; I, that of seaweeds. May 19th and 20th Made an unsuccessful endeavor to pur- chase some books ashore. (for observations see inside of two leaves pasted together betw pp. 137, 138.) May 23rd Collecting together all the tids not already pack- ed, - those on board and those at the observatory. The latter have been undergoing a drying process for the last two months. I took a long walk a shore for this purpose and suffered much from the heat of the sun - a thick uniform cost not being quite as good a protection as the white jackets, which, with cork-hats and
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May 1854 Hong Kong China Umbrellas I observed in the possession of contemporary pedestrians. A couple of stout Chinamen transported one of the boxes for me, but handled between them from a stout bamboo. On the way I observed a small drove of cattle (zebu?) Small, rather finely limbed, of a brownish mouse-color, rather dark:—hump not well marked in all cases but sufficiently obvious in some. At the Naval Store-house I packed today "Box No 4, Birds" The room in which my dried specimens are now all deposited ready to be sent home, is a low, damp place, and if specimens could be kept there two months without being destroyed it would be indeed dreadful. But the arrangement of their matters is not now under my control. Our ship is very clean, and the crew healthy. We have now 14 on the sick-list out of a crew of 190. The British frigate here has 80 sick out of 550. May 24th This afternoon the Repealer "Hancock" Capt. Rogers, arrived, and in the evening some of her officers came on board to see us. She had been four months surveying in the passages between Borneo and Sumatra, and had done a great deal of work as might have been expected from the well-known energy and efficient character of Capt. Rogers. Much of their surveying had been done in boats and they had landed at a great number of islands, had had ample opportunities of searching among the reefs and shoals, and of examining all the interesting phenomena connected with such localities. They had collected many shells, sea-weeds and plants: Dr Alexander having shown especial zeal in those pursuits. In fact he one day had his clothing torn from his legs by a shark, while trading for shells. The Commodore has ordered me to discharge the boatman whom I have employed in my dredging operations lately; and I must therefore now to a great extent give up my researches in this interesting locality. May 25th Star Ship Kennedy arrived today. I saw Capt. Collins, who told me he had brought some interesting animals from Java, which he has now on board, alive,—as Pythons,
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May 1854 Hong Kong China Parrots, Monkeys, Tiger cats etc. There has been much sickness among his officers. May 26th & 27th I am confined to my room by an attack of Cholera-morbus. May 28th Although quite recovered, I am kept on board by the incessant showers. It has rain- ed almost constantly for four or five days. May 29th Weather fine again. I made arrangements to fit a portion of my Zoological Stores from the Kennedy. We now have on board a Python 13 ft long from Batavia, which was presented by the kind and hospitable inhabitants of that city to Dr Hamilton of the Kennedy. I saw it swallow a chick- en of full size, by compression in the coils of its body, to an elongated cylindrical shape, and then, still using a coil of its body as an adjuster, swallowing it head fore- most, in a slow and deliberate manner. It requires as it rations a chicken every five days. May 30th Mr Squires, a gentleman engaged at Batavia by Capt. Rogers, to serve in the Haw- ock as interpreter and Collector—came on board today to see me. At the Commodore's request I conversed with him about his collection which were chiefly marine animals from Gaspar Straits. Finding he had evinced much discrimination and tact in collecting and pre-serving specimens, I reported accordingly to Capt. Ringgold, and he will be appointed assistant Naturalist in place of Mr Ames who left at the Cape. I went with Mr S. to the Hancock's and saw his collection most of which were quite in my favorite departments and of course all new to me. He had a specimen of the edible bird's nest (of a swallow) attached to a rock. It is about two inches across, of a semi-cylindrical shape, fastened like a hollow shelf to the perpendicular surface of the rock. (For an account of these collections see Mr Squires Catalogues.) May 31st I visited the Kennedy today, to get out stores etc. Capt. Collins showed me his beautiful pair of Java doves, and I also saw a small collection of invertebrates, Shells etc,
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June 1854 Hong Kong, China Made by Dr. Hamilton. The weather has been very wet lately. June 1st Spent the day in sealing up specimens in bottles and final packing away. June 2nd A fine day ... Thermometer at 84° F Spent the day in cleaning and cataloguing shells. Working so much in my rooms on the berth deck, over alcoholic prepar- ations, creates an atmosphere most un- passable to sleep in, and probably very injurious. I suffer much in health from this cause, but can get no other place to work in. June 3rd Spent in labelling and wrapping speci- mens of fish taken here. Received the Hancock's collections, and took them to the Naval Store-house June 4th Sunday. Weather fine, very hot. June 5th At work packing away specimens. In the evening I put Python into a new cage, and put a faking boa in with him, which his snakeship immedi- ately proceeded to take the usual course. The pig however made such a courageous plunge and gave such a vigorous grunt bite at the serpent whenever he approached, that we were at last in doubt whether the table would not be reversed,-i.e. that the pig would swallow the snake. Numerous were the jokes cracked on the occasion, and loud the laughter of the men who surrounded the cage, which was placed on the floors; -and the Commodore, seeing the snake had a poor chance, in the daytime at least, ordered the pig left in the cage all night. This boar seems to be of a different species from our domestic pigs. June 6th Finding the intended victim uninjured in the cage, the trembling very much, he was sent ashore, and a chicken sub- stituted as the proper meal for our pet, although Mr. Squires asserts they have been killed in Java with whole camelops in their bellies. June 7th 8th 9th Finished sealing up my Hong Kong Collection
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June 1854 Hong Kong, China of invertebrates, which are now, with very few exceptions finally labelled and packed a-way. There is a strong excitement here at present about pirates, which now infest the coast in great numbers. Several vessels have been chased, some robbed, others are missing. Strong hints have been thrown out that it is the duty of our Commodore to send his vessels of war (in the absence of others) to destroy these marauders,-which has occasioned quite a tart controversy in the Hong Kong journals. June 10th The Porpoise, now completely repaired, sailed this morning under the command of Capt. Rolando, who has been appointed to her in the place of Capt. Davis who went home sick. She is to cruise in search of the pirates. Our ship, the Vincennes, is about to proceed to Canton, as the European residents there, among whom are numerous Americans, are said to be in danger of an attack from the insurgents, who are making demonstrations against the city. I made out list of all the specimens June 1854 Whampoa Reach in the Star-House, which are to be stowed away on board the Kennedy. Sunday June 11th We get underway early in the morning and proceeded up toward Canton with a fair wind. We ran chiefly between the Chinese Coast forming the Northern shore of the bay, and the numerous large islands which are interspersed in it. At about 11 o'clock at night we came to in the bay formed by the river above the "Boque" June 12th Getting underway early in the morning we ran up the river and came to anchor just below "Bamboo-town" at nine in the forenoon. Bamboo-town is a village composed of Chinese Shanties, Sailor boarding houses etc., lying on the right bank of the river and lining the shore, about two miles below Canton. On the other shore, and opposite to it, lies New-town a village of the same character, built partly on piles. Its houses have "front-yards" consisting of spaces of the water enclosed by stakes. In these boats are kept. The shipping in the river lies are mostly anchored between these two towns, and among the rest we saw many American Clippers.
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June 1854 Hong Kong China The day after our arrival, when it had become generally known in the vicinity, we were surrounded by a crowd of about 100 passenger boats, bringing tailors, pedlars etc which could only be repulsed by a powerful stream of water from our pumps and hose. June 16th At 5 A. M. we got underweigh and proceeded down the river, but at sunset were yet far from the Boque, or Bocca Tigris, as the wind was ahead. We came to anchor late in the evening. Today a man died on board, of dropsy—the first death which has taken place on board and almost the first in the Expedition since we left the United States. June 17th Sailing down the Bay. We had started with the intention of going to Macao, but the wind proving more favorable for a passage to Hong Kong, we anchored we anchored at night inside of Cap—si—noon passage Sunday, June 18th The wind being nearly fair, we got June 1854 Whampoa Reach underweigh at 4 o’ck, and anchored at Hong Kong before 9 in the morning. June 19th—22nd Spent in packing away Specimens at the Store-house. By order of the Commodore I killed the Python (by strangling) and skinned him. The skin I preserved in alcohol, as no dry specimens can be kept in this hot damp climate with any hope of their ultimate good preservation. As soon as we had arrived at Hong Kong we heard of renewed difficulties occurring at Canton;—one of the Europeans had disappeared etc., and on the 22nd one of the American Merchants at Canton, came down to see our Commodore and urge his immediate return to Whampoa. Accordingly at 5 o’clock in the afternoon we got underweigh and proceeded up the river again. June 23rd We came to anchor this time off the city of Whampoa, above Newtown and Bamboo-town, at the juncture of three or four ramifications of the river. The schooner (F. Cooper) soon after anchored near us. The City of Whampoa, built of Gluek, or slate-colored brick, may be seen through the
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June 1854 Whampoa Reach June 24th The "Nancook" arrived and anchored astern of us. The Commodore and several of the Vincennes' officers went on board of her after breakfast, taking this opportunity of going to Canton. I accompanied this party. We reached Canton in two or three hours, grounding at the mud once or twice during the passage. I was much disappointed in the appearance of the city; the suburbs crowded upon the walls so as to render the whole an irregular mass of ugly Chinese houses of two stories in height. June 25th We took a trip in a Chinese pulling boat, through the "boat-town" consisting of a large collection of family-boats, or arks, permanently moored in the river a little above the factories, and laid out into streets or narrow canals. In the afternoon we returned in a Nung-boat to the ship. June 26th to July 3rd I made but few zoological excursions, for reasons formerly stated, and made here scarce any additions to the collections. A small shell of the genus Briessenia was found and a few reptiles. The heat is now so great that one can scarce work at all, much less go about collecting in the hot sun. So both Mr. Wright and myself remain unemployed in our particular business, and are forced to resort to reading or study. July 4th Some of the American clippers anchored near us dressed ship today in fine style, and fired salutes. The Schooner still lies near us, the Nancook is at Canton, where her officers receive scarce any attentions from the American merchants there. July 5th - 19th My time is chiefly spent in study, and in searching the library for books of voyages and travels, to make extracts of all relating to Zoology. The American steamer Queen came down from Canton and took up to that place about 100 of our men and some officers to assist in the protection of the factories in case of an outbreak. The rebels are rapidly approaching the place. The Commodore went up the
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July 1854 Whampoa Reach Next day and became dangerously sick at the house of Dr. Parker. The Schooner also went up. We daily hear accounts of the Commodore's illness, and also of the progress of the rebels. A party of our force under Capt. Rogers went up the river for several miles and had a skirmish with a party of the insurgents. July 20th - 22nd We remain in a quiescent state, reading writing, and protecting ourselves from the heat; the only excitement being the daily arrival of news from Canton. The Commodore remains quite unwell. The rebels appear to make but little progress, and the anxiety of the merchants at the factories seems much diminished. Sunday, July 23rd Com. Perry in the U.S.S. Mississippi has just arrived at Hong Kong. Our presence near Canton is therefore no longer necessary as the forces whose legitimate business it is are now here. Com. Kinggold immediately ordered the schooner to Whampoa, and followed himself in a long boat, arriving on board at sunset. July 1854 Whampoa Reach He is still quite unwell, and is evidently much out of his head. July 24th At one o'clock we lifted our anchor from the bottom and dropped down the river to our old anchorage - the one occupied on our first visit to this place. The Schooner sailed for Hong Kong early in the morning. The Commodore still suffers aberration of mind and gives very strange orders, which of course are obeyed with many reservations. July 25th The U.S.S. Mississippi arrived and anchored about a mile below us. Our officers immediately communicated with Commodore Perry, who sent his Captain and Surgeon to examine into the Commodore's state of mind. July 26th We got underweigh at noon, and at last left this detestable place. At sunset we were below the Bogue. The Nanook was then seen coming up astern, under steam, having left Canton early in the morning. She brought and sent on board our Canton detachment of men.
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July 1854 Macao, China Then, after considerable trouble arising from the Commodore's orders, a tow line was got to her, and we were towed all night to ward Macao, at the rate of one or two knots per hour. July 27th At Sunrise the Hancock cast us off and went to Hong Kong. We made sail and commenced beating up to Chacao, but anchored after a few hours to wait the tide. The water here had but a slight admixture of fresh-water, and that only at certain times of the tide; yet at the surface were swimming the same kind of Crabs that were so common in Whampoa Reach (HK-) We got underweigh again at noon and at 4 reached Macao Roads, anchoring near a French Frigate which was lying there. July 28th The Commodore then took ashore today and received at the house of Mr Rahl. His mental Malady still continues. July 29th - 31st Macao has the finest Climate, and August 1854 Cen-Sing-moon, China certainly the most healthy one in this part of China. I went ashore several times, took long walks, visited Canoe's Grotto etc. The "Cooper" arrived here on the 29th. On the 31st the steamer Mississippi came in and anchored near us, bringing us Lt Brooks and other officers and men of the Squadron from Hong Kong and from the Hancock. August 1st Mr Wright and myself with two of the Ship's crew went ashore today on an island about a mile from our anchorage to make collections. The weather was very squally, and during a rain-gust we sheltered ourselves in some fisherman's huts (deserted). By diving and collecting at low water I secured a few Crabs - none new to me, but little of interest. Aug. 2nd The barometer indicating an approaching storm went by order of Comr Perry to Cen-Sing-moon Harbor; the Mississippi following shortly after. Aug. 2nd - 8th A severe northeast gale lasted from the night of the second until the 4th. On the 6th the "Hancock" passed us on
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164 August 1854 Cant-Sing-moon, China her way to Macao. On the 7th the Hancock, Capt. Rogers, arrived here with the news of the condemnation of Com. Ringgold by a medical board which had held a survey. This had been officially reported to him on his late visit to Macao. Capt. Rogers, therefore, now takes command of the Expedition. He did not, however, come on board today but sailed for Hong Kong in the Hancock shortly after communicating with us. I went ashore but once at Cant-sing-moon; the weather being bad and the place pestilent with marshy odors. The animals at low water mark were nearly the same as there at Hong Kong:—same species however being common here which are rare there,—as the white Pelasmus, and several small univalves. A large flat of mud was uncovered at low water. August 8th Weather fine. We sailed for Hong Kong and at night anchored in Cant-sing-moon passage. August 9th Weather still fine. Getting underway. 165 August 1854 Hong Kong, China in the morning, we arrived in Hong Kong Harbor at 3 in the afternoon, and anchored well over on the Kowloon side, near the Hospital Ship and Steam Tugs. August 10th Our present anchorage is much preferable to our previous ones in this harbor, and we now enjoy a fine current of air the greater part of the time. The harbor is now much crowded with vessels. August 11th Capt. Rogers came on board today and took command. The ship has for some weeks been under the command of Lt. Reilly. August 12th—31st My time was, for the remainder of the month, pretty well occupied by the following duties. I got all of my stores out of the “Kennedy” which ship has been condemned as an exploring vessel, and goes up the river to lie off Canton as a Guard-Ship, and for the command of Lt. Gleason. Of the stores I selected part to keep with me on board ship, and sent the remainder ashore to the Naval Store-house. A large quantity of articles etc was condemned, the cans having rusted out on board the Kennedy on her outward passage,
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166 August 1854 Hong Kong China so that the drug could not be saved without great danger of poisoning somebody. I packed a box of Specimens (mostly shells) also a barrel of Corals, and got them together with several boxes and kegs formerly packed at this place: in all 5 boxes & 5 kegs. These I got on board the U.S. Frigate Ship "Lexington" to go to the United States shortly. As Mr Wright was sick I also got his packages of plants aboard the same ves- sel, and got receipt for them as I did for my own. The Porpoise, in company with some Lorchas and the boats of the French Frigate had an engagement with the Pirates a few weeks since, and succeeded in destroying some of them. Capt. Rolando has been removed from the command of the P. & will go home in one of the steam- ships of Com. Perry's Squadron. The "Cooper" made several trips to Macao. Capt. Kingsold still remains at that place, in charge of the doctors. The Hancock made several trips to Canton, on business for Com. Perry and Commissioner McLane. 167 September 1854 Hong Kong China At the close of the month there were a very large number of American men-of-war, of various classes in Hong Kong Harbor, of which the following is a list: Steamship Mississippi Frigate Porpoise "-" Powhatan Store Ship Lexington "-" Susquehanna "-" Supply "-" John Hancock "-" Southampton Sloop Macedonia "-" Kennedy "-" Vincennes Schooner F. Cooper September 1st - 11th At the opening of this month considerable ex- citement exists about the appointment of the officers of our Squadron among the different ves- sels. There is a good deal of hurrying about, cliques are formed, much diplomacy exercised, and Capt. Rogers must have considerable dif- ficulty in calming the elements, adjusting cloans, and making everything down to its condition of stability. The following is a list of the officers of the different vessels under the new system.
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September 1854 Hong Kong China Trip Vincennes Capt. John Rogers, Commanding Expedition. Mr Roe 1st Lieut. Murroe Lieut. Fillebrown " Carter Master Boggs Purser Dr Giber Fleet Surgeon Michel Ast. Mr Brooke Astronomer " Knorr Secretary " Wright Botanist Stibbons Zoologist " Kern Artist Floor age Schönborn Meteorologist & Math. Inst. Maker " Ribbs Current Clerk " Thompson Masters Mate " Kent " Forward Offices Davis Gunner Owens Carpenter Berry Sailmaker Steamer John Hancock Lt Commanding H.K. Stevens. Mr Robertham 1st Lieut. " Kussel Lieut. " Hunter Master " Carnes " Dr Alexander Ast. Surgeon Mr Ritchie Purser " Lawton Engineer " Macnab " " Williams Clerk & Draughtsman " Hartman Asst. Naturalist. Schooner J. Cooper Acting Lieut. Commanding C. Gibbon Mr Kennon Lieut. & Master " Schamershorn Masters Mate. Dr Hamilton having been very sick for some time (of Dysentery) was forced to give up his new position of Chemist and Meteorologist on board of the Vincennes, and was sent on board the Resquehama, which shortly after sailed for home via Japan, San Francisco, Cape Horn etc. He was not expected to live. I am employed in getting in my stores for the coming voyage, seeing my approved requisitions filled out etc. Alcohol is very high in price here. ($2.50 per gallon) I also made a few dredging and collecting excursions in a Sampson hired by Giron. Meat for the purpose. But the ground for some reason is now extremely barren, and I secured very specimens, although September 1854 Hong Kong China Brig Porpoise Acting Lieut. Commanding New Bridge Mr Keily 1st Lieut. " Van Wycke Lieut. " Bliss " " Baker Master Dr Stuart Ast. Surgeon Mr Pitts Clerk and Draughtsman
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170 September 1854. Ning Kong, China What did occur were somewhat different in general character from those taken on the same ground last Sunday. No fishing or trawling boats are now to be seen in the bay although so numerous formerly. I succeeded however in obtaining a few nov- elities in the fish-market. Cm. Rieggold and his Secretary (Mr Stewart) arrived here from Macao, and soon after went on board the Susquehama, sailing for home in that steamer on the 14th. Our former Commodore though still de- ranged, seems to have quite recovered his health. Our vessels in this port are fast leav- ing, one by one: those of Cm. Perry's Squad- ron have all sailed excepting the Macedo- nian, which remains here as the flag- ship of the East India Squadron. Cm. Per- ry left for home in the Mail steamer on the 11th. The Mississippi sailed on the same day with us (the 12th). The "Narocck" and "Cooper" sailed on the 9th together, for a surveying cruise up the Chinese coast as far as Corea. 171 September 1854 China Sea 12th N. Lat. 31° 52' E. Lon. 114° 09' Fine Wind N.E. Course S.E. &c. We sailed from Ning Kong in the morning, passing between Green Is. and H.K. Island and so on to the Northward and Eastward, passing just astern of the Lema So Wind fresh though not fair. The Porpoise accompanies us. 13th N. Lat. 19° 27' E. Lon. 115° 20' Fine Wind N.E. Beating to the Eastward. 14th N. Lat. 20° 04' E. Lon. 116° 41' Rainy. Wind variable but generally ahead. We are beating about in the vicinity of Flates Shoals, in a most uncom- fortable sea. A dark night. A large ship was seen approaching us on the opposite tack, which did not alter her course though repeatedly hailed. She passed just clear of us: one might have thrown a biscuit on board. We spoke her and found she was bound to London. 15th N. Lat. 19° 57' E. Lon. 116° 32' Squally. Wind S.E., ena- b ling us to head about N.E. 16th N. Lat. 21° 04' E. Lon. 118° 21' Squally Wind East. Beating. 17th N. Lat. 19° 51' E. Lon. 118° 47' Beating. In the afternoon a strong gale sprang up from the Eastward, which soon reduced us to short sail. 18th N. Lat 20° 06' - E. Lon. 118° 52' The Gale continues, stronger than ever.
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172 September 1834 China Sea 19th N.Lat.-22°05' E.Lon. 118°38' Heading North. The wretches variable; - in the afternoon the gale Moderated, and toward night we were nearly calmmed,-in the Northern part of the China Sea. We have now struck soundings in 20 fathoms. I secured a few Marine ani- mals in the tow-net. Porpois in Company. 20th N.Lat. 24° 02' - E.Lon. 118°53' Wind about E.N.E. Heading to the N'd & W'd The Pescadore Islands were seen at daylight. Toward night the wind increased to a violent gale. Appallant masts hound. 21st N.Lat. 28° 30' - E.Lon. 118° 25' More to under Close-reefed maintopsail, heading alternately N.W. and S.E. At 8 o'clock in the mor- ing we lost sight of the Porpois in a Squall. We are having a most uncomfortable pas- pase - a continual succession of bad weather and head winds. The rolling and pitching of the ship is terrible, giving us no chance of writing or working, and scarcely any of reading. I am in constant anxiety a- bout my alcohol, bottles, jars etc., some of which "fetched away" doing little damage however. Half the nights it is impossible to sleep. It is wet below, for we some- 173 September 1834 China Sea times ship seas, little and big, which kaff the water on the berth deck several inches deep to lee- ward. It is hot and damp below, for no wind- sails can be hoisted. It was comfortable nowhere, -endurable only at the Cabin hatch, where a breath of fresh air with dry clothes coald, by assiduity, be obtained. 22nd N.Lat.-22° 52' - E.Lon. 119°03' Wind N.E. Course att S.E. The Storm Ceased toward evening. 23rd N.Lat. 21° 39' - E.Lon.119°36 Squally. Wind fresh, northeast. Beating. At night another gale commences. 24th N.Lat.-22°04' -E.Lon.119°21' Heading N. Weather stormy Sunday. We are lying to in a gale which mod- erated at night. 25th N.Lat.-22° 43' - E.Lon. 119°28' Wind east, Squally In the evening it became calm, leaving us rolling about in a heavy sea, without any means of steadying the vessel. 26th N.Lat. 22°17' - E.Lon.120°05' Fine. A light northerly wind enables us at last to head our course. The only fine day we have had since the second after sailing. I got everything up to dry and did considerable work on my Specimens. The South end of Formosa was in sight in the afternoon.
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176 October 1854 Pacific Ocean See of Dragon-flies (Libellula) flew on board, one of which were preserved by Mr Wright. 7th N. Lat. 25° 26' - E. Lon. 130° 46' W? NW Cº E. No. 6 km. Temp. 85° Pleasant Weather. At sunset made Goodina I. 8th N. Lat. 25° 48' - E. Lon. 130° 56' Wind E. No. 5 km. Temp. 86° Sunday. Weather fine. Day spent in beating up to Goodina. There are two islands, the smaller one lying about 8 miles N.W. of the larger. At sunset we were quite close to the large one, but the weather becoming threatening and gloomy we hauled off to the Northward. 9th N. Lat. 26° 46' - E. Lon. 131° 48' W? SE Cº E NE No. 4 km Weather Cloudy. Temperature 88°. Today a cross-jack and mizzen topsail yard were got up and the sail bent—transforming the Bark Vincennes into a Ship. 10th N. Lat. 27° 29' - E. Lon. 134° 14' W? SSE Cº SE N No. 5. T.p. 86° Weather pleasant, sea smooth. 11th N. Lat. 27° 32' - E. Lon. 137° 9' W? S. Cº E. No. 4 km. Temp. 86° 12th " " 27° 41' " " 138° 25' Wind light E. No. 2 km. " 87° Beating to the Eastward. At noon calm. 13th N. Lat. 27° 26' E. Lon. 139° 01' Nearly calm Temp. 85° Lt. Brooke sounded with his new deep sea lead in 2000 & 3000 fms—no bottom. 14th N. Lat. 27° 29' E. Lon. 140° 01' W? E No. 2 km Temp. 87 Beating to the Eastward. Weather fine but hot. 177 October 1854 Pacific Ocean 15th Sunday N. Lat. 26° 38' - E. Lon. 140° 57' Wind E. No. 5 km. Temp. 86° Still beating. Weather squally. 16th N. Lat. 27° 16' - 140° 42' E. Lon. W? E No. 4 km Temp. 85° Made the small island Rosario and beat up for it. When at about 3 miles distance two whale boats left the ship to visit it. I went in one of them, with Lt. Brooke. We did not effect a landing however as the surf was too high on the only patches of beach we could discover. The island consists of a plateau of black volcanic rocks, elevated to the height of about 50 feet above the sea, with rocky cliffs hollowed out in many places into fantastic caverns. With the exception of a small patch of grass it was entirely destitute of vegetation. A small inland bluff near the northwestern extremity showed a stratification of red and yellow tufas. Off the op- posite extremity a shoal makes off for some distance. Along the shores in ten or fifteen fathoms a few spotted Poupers (Serrasic) were An albatross (D. exulans) was seen flying about the island. Caught. Sharks were also extremely abundant. 17th N. Lat. 26° 42' - E. Lon. 140° 59' W? S.W. Cº E? E No. 1 Temp. 88 18th N. Lat. 27° 02' - E. Lon. 141° 25' W? W.E. No. 4 Temp. 83 At daylight the Bonin Islands were seen stretching along the horizon to the eastward, and the day was spent in beating up for them. The wind was light however, and little headway made.
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178 October 1854 Bonin Islands. 19th In the morning we beat up to Port Lloyd. The pilot (An American named Horton) boarded us outside, coming off in a canoe of the kind used here—made of boards and having an outrigger. As soon as we had anchored I took the Dugui and pulled about to have a look at the place. Near the ship a ledge of rocks was passed, which was partly uncovered at the highest tides: between this and the shore was a shallow basin filled with coral, the high- er branches of which just reached the surf- ace at low water. I landed on the beach behind the basin, and found a few crabs etc. among the stones—not much however, as the tide was well in. On this beach are the residences of most of the inhabitants, placed near the shore although generally hidden among the trees. Large hermit crabs were creepping about on the ground in great num- bers. After pulling about the harbor awhile I get a haul of the dredge in tow faltings, coral bottom, finding a pretty new Donin, and a curious minuteae ulmiculifores Ascidia. 20th In the morning the ship's Seine was hauled in a core, but only two fishes 179 October 1854 Bonin Islands were taken;—a spotted yellow Serranias and a Pterois. At low water I went in the Dugui to the ledge mentioned yesterday, and got some large red-spined Acroeladis, two other kinds of sea-urchins, a large red racer-crab (Plagusia)—of several specimens were chased and caught by the men—and a variety of Holoturiads among the coral. On this as on other days when I had Ship's men with me, it was necessary to return to the Ship at 12 o'clock for the men's, at 3 for my own dinner, and at five for the men's supper; so that I could not make very long excursions. At first however this was very convenient, enabling me to stow away the very numerous specimens, which spoil soon in so hot a climate as this. Among pebbles and stones on the shore opposite the anchorage (the village or base-line beach) I got a large number of small invertebrate. This evening the Seine was hauled with greater success: Multitudes of Mullet and a few Carangoid fish were taken, of which I saved specimens and noted the colors. 21st Mr Carter (our Master) went very early to "South Head" and shot a goat. After breakfast I went and collected at that place, and
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October 1854 Borin Islands meeting him, brought him on board. Mactres met me at every step .... the Scriphtalme at this point were especially numerous in species and beautiful in coloring. A num- ber of Iridaceae were collected, in one of which I found a new and remarkable Shrimp, with the habits of a Pausothere. Crabs of the latter genus were found in the small oysters which covered the rocks. The afternoon was spent in fishing. The Seine was hauled at Sunset and some large Skates fell to my share; with Jar-fish (Bdelo) de 22nd Sunday. I took a walk on shore, following up one of the ravines in which ran a small stream, the tropical vegetation overhanging, which was so dense as almost to exclude the light. A bright green Neritina was abundant clinging to the rocks over which the water rushed, and a Pecarcinus occurred on the banks at considerable elevations. At the mouth of the stream the banks were loved in all directions by gigantic Sea- Armed (6 inches across) which fought cour- ageously with two dogs which beatened to attack them, using their powerful claws with dexterity and success. October 1854 Borin Islands 23rd I paid another visit to the Mountain Streams and collected some large Shrimp and a few gobies. Two kinds of Snipe were shot. In the evening Mr Brooke shot from the ship one of the large frugivorous bats (Pteropus) which were flying about in considerable numbers. 24th At low water I secured a great variety of invertebrals (Astoriade, Cidari, Chino-metra, a dozen or more sp. of Crabs, 4 of Maloturia, Autliea, Halopoid ptypes, Shrimps (Alphans) Ophiura, Grandactyli, etc.) by drawing up with boat-hooks masses of coral and interlaced branches of Mad- ropores, and carefully searching them. 25th The small streams which came down from the Mountains here generally empty into little Lagoons of Brackish water connected with the sea. There I searched with seines of fine meshes, and a variety of small fish which served me for Specimens and also as bait for larger kinds. Among them were Upereai, Sargi, Mullots, Labrax?, Polpermus, and Eleo- is. 26th to the 31st Dredging not proving as profita- able here as at other places, but little was done in that line and other more success.
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182 October 1854 Bonin Islands full methods of collecting adopted. However I succeeded once in a place called "[illegible]" and on the muddy bottom got many mud- snute shells and a singular little crab (Pai- mixia?) Five or six birds were shot and skinned. We experienced a violent typhoon while lying here - a four feet cyclone, which lashed the water into foam around us and filled the air with spray, while we were congratulating ourselves that we were not at sea, in which case our safety would well have ad- mitted of doubt. A French whaler (the "Nap- oleon, III") lying astern of us was driven a- ground even in this sheltered harbor. The trees were stripped of their leaves and oft of boughs. The coral-covered rocks in three and four fath- om along the shore of this harbor, especially under rocky cliffs, afford feeding-ground for multitudes of beautifully-colored fish, which are however very difficult to take, on account of the nature of the ground, where nets cannot be used. After trying with hook and line in many points of the bay without success, I at last hit upon a spot - the high cliff just below the "Paps", where 183 November 1854 Bonin Islands the fish bit briskly, and afforded me much sport for several days in the afternoons. The Seridace picked up while collecting at low water during the morning afforded us furnished us with late. I used very small lines and hooks to suit the mouths of the fish, but often caught compara- tively heavy fish (279 lbs) with a line no big- ger than pack thread. The extra specimens after taking such as it was proper to preserve furnis- ed our mess with a good meal. Nov 1st-5th - Mostly spent in increasing my collection of fishes. I discovered a new spit (a coral rock 18ft in diameter, on a shoal) where they were still more abundant than at the first. In all I secured about 50 species at this place, and probably twice that number exist here. On one occasion I shoved my boat (a small red cockle-shell made of iron) into a deep cleft of a rocky bluff, where from a favorable direction of the light I could see clearly everything at the depth of two to four fathoms. Bril- liantly-painted and strangely shaped fishes were swimming about along the sides of the cliff in great numbers, and I counted at least 20 kinds of which I had not secured a specimen,
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184 November 1854. Bonin Islands It appeared impossible to take them, for they would neither bite at the hook nor enter the fish-pot (or trap) and I suffered the torments of Patalus in consequence. At the same time I had a scrimmage with an Octopus (of 4 ft or more from tip to tip) which was clinging to the rock about 4 feet under water, but which concealing in an ugly cloud, got off unharmed. The collection of shells secured here is smaller than would have been the case had not more important subjects claimed attention, for there was no lack of specimens; large Cowries (C. Mauritana) Strombs, and other handsome kinds being abundant. A Patella 2 in. in diam., and strongly ribbed, which I have seen nowhere else, was frequent on the rocks at least. The number of species found was 110, 40 of which also occur at Loo Choo or on the Chinese coast. The Bonins are a collection of small islands stretching along for about 100 miles in the direction of the meridian, and forming three distinct groups; the centre November 1854. Bonin Islands one of which contains the largest (Peel) island, about 5 miles in diameter, in which is the harbor called Pat Lloyd. They lie in about 27° N. Latitude and 143½ E. longitude. They were visited 28 years ago by Beechey and Lutke; and last year by Commodore Perry, who went through some forms of taking possession and appointing a Governor, whose name is Savery. The inhabitants are about 30 in number, mostly runaway whalers with wives brought from the Sandwich Is. They live by cultivating small patches of sweet potatoes, lemon-trees, etc.,-furnishing fresh provisions to the whalers which frequently stop here for water and refreshments. They appear however to be very idle, and intoxicated most of the time. A flag-staff has been erected at the house of the Governor, and Commodore Perry's initials may be seen at various points on the rocks which surround a small tract he has purchased--wharf property. The climate is delightful.
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November 1854 Pacific Ocean 6th This morning a light NE breeze rising up we got underweigh and passed out of Port Lloyd, narrowly escaping being jammed against the South Head. Upon the top of this promontory we notice six or eight wild goats which stood looking at us, and modestly congratulating themselves at the prospect of being at last freed from the harassing persecution of our rifles. The weather was clear threatening; temperature 80°. We passed around to the southward of the group and toward evening the islands of Coffin's Group came into view. These we did not visit however but hauled up to the S.E. for the night. 7th N.Lat. 25°39' E.Lon. 142°46' Wind E. Temp. 75°. Weather unpleasant. We are beating against an easterly wind which in the afternoon increased into a gale. 8th N.Lat. 26°25' E.Lon. 142°34' No. 3 kn. Wind S.S.E. Weather Stormy. Temp. 79°. In the evening a leak was discovered in our stern which admitted a considerable quantity of water into the ward-room. We are working up to the N.W.? 9th N.Lat. 28°23' E.Lon. 143°46' Heading S.E. No. 6 kn. Wind S. Cloudy. Temp. 83°. In the evening the weather became stormy. About eight o'clock an alarm of fire occurred, drum beat to quarters etc. It was occasioned by the consettling of a candle on the drafting-room to—the cover of which was soon in a blaze. This however was nonet-the-less extinguished some of the officers having the presence of mind to snatch off the corn and smother the fire by trampling. 10th N.Lat. 29°31' E.Lon. 144°33' N.N.W. No. 5 kns Wind N.W. Cloudy. Temp. 78°. Sea rough. Under short sail seeking for reported islands & shoals which are found not to exist. 11th N.Lat. 29°57' E.Lon. 143°26' N.N.W. No. 7 kn Wind N.E. Weather Stormy. Temp. 67° 12th N.Lat. 29°31' E.Lon. 141°01' N.E. No. 7 kn Wind N.E., blowing hard. Temp. 68°. This day (Sunday) in the afternoon we passed Armstead's Peak, a solitary rock in the wide ocean, far from any land. It was of a slender pyramidal form and several hundred feet in height, and of a remarkable appearance resembling in the distance a sail.
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November 1854 Pacific Ocean) 13th N.Lat. 29°01' E.Long 137°09' No.W.S.W. No.7km. Wind E.N.E. Blowing a gale. Temp. 72°. We continue on our course toward Lo Choo, occasionally passing over the reported positions of those suspicious Shoals. The ship rolls heavily and is very uncomfortable; scientific work in my department impracticable: my time is therefore chiefly employed in reading. 14th N.Lat. 28°02' E.Long 136°18' No.W.byS. No.8km. Wind N. Blowing a gale. Temp. 76° 15th N.Lat. 26°30' E.Long 136°24' No.N. No.8km. Wind N. Weather pleasant. Temp. 76°. 16th N.Lat. 26°04' E.Long 127°33'. Weather pleasant in N.WE Shiny breeze. Having have to at midnight at day light we saw Lo Choo ahead, and immediately bore away and passed along its South-eastern shore for thirty or forty miles. The distance was too great to give us a good view of the country, until we passed close to its Southern extremity and opened the parts around Napa, which presented a beautiful appearance. We beat up and anchored near some (lo) study (coral) islands off Napa Harbor. 17th Short wind we have up anchor and ran into the Harbor with a strong breeze. Nov. - Dec. 1854 Lo Choo Great Lo Choo is the largest and most southerly of the chain of islands which extend southward from Japan. It is about sixty miles in length and rather less than twenty in average breadth. The land is moderately elevated, but generally much more level and easily traversed than any other of the Japanese possessions. At their Northern extremity however there are some mountains of considerable elevation. The southern half is much the most populous, and at one time, before the Japanese invasions, formed a distinct Kingdom. Near the Capital town, Shui, is situated, at a distance of about three miles from Napa, the Chief Port. Junii, a small village half a mile North of Napa is situated along the shore of a small salt-water creek. At this place our boats usually landed, and from its convenience it was selected here for our shore establishment, consisting of Messrs Bruce and Kern, with Astronomical and Daguerreotype instruments, and a small party of men to attend the life-gauge
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and assist the officers of the Scientific Corps generally. Among the men was Pelkey, my assistant, who devoted his at- tention to stuffing birds etc when other du- ties permitted, which, in his opinion at least, was not often. Mr Wright and Myself remained on board visiting the Shore daily for a few hours (10k to 4t) to make collections. The creek at Lumai runs for some hun- dreds of yards through muddy and Sandy flats which, being nearly level, are dai- ly laid bare by the tide, which rises and falls here within five of six feet perpendicular height. These flats, though well searched, yielded but few objects of interest in a Zoological point of view, and in fact the region in the vicinity of Mafa generally appears to offer but a poor field for the researches of the Naturalist. The flats are very extensive, and are separated from the sea only by a narrow strip of rocky reef at low water. Their higher levels are almost entirely occupied by the natives who use them as floors upon which to spread their Salting-Sand. In hot days very many of the people may be seen on these flats thus Making Salt. The sand is spread on the floors at low waters; the tide then comes in and wets it, and retiring, leaves much of the water retained among the gains in the little heaps of Sand, which, dry dry leaves the salt. The sand is then scrapped up, and the salt washed out of it with salt-water—thereby forming a little brine fit for boiling. Our Shore-party occupied a large tent made of matting which had been used by Com. Perry for the reception of Coal. Behind this structure was situated the "foreign burial ground" contain- ing a dozen or more graves, which were indicated, after the Lum Choo style, by an dlong table of cement or chinaware supported in the interior by its high rectangle of loose stones. One or two of these graves dated far back, and were those of French-men & Missionaries who died here pre- vious to 1820. Two of our men who died just before an arrival here are also buried at this spot. In the Lumai creek I frequently hauled
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No.-Dec. 1854 Lo Choo. my seine, it being the only place in which this was practicable. I caught however but few fishes, all of which were small. I was rather surprised to find among them some flying-fish—where proper habitat is the open sea. I caught no fish whatever with the hook and line, not being able to find a good locality. Dredging was equally unsuccessful. As is usual in tropical or sub-tropical countries the sandy or muddy bottoms in depths exceeding two fathoms are almost barren of marine animals. Wherever there is coral, the marine fauna seems always to be almost entirely concentrated upon it, and while its groves afford a rich field, but little can be found on the other stations of the locality. In Zoology, Lo Choo may be said to be chiefly distinguished for the number and variety of its shells. We obtained nearly 400 species during the time of our stay. It should be mentioned however, that but few of these were obtained alive, as our chief collecting ground was the No.-Dec. 1854 Lo Choo. beach which extends for several miles northward from Lume. Here we might have spent many days in active search without exhausting its riches, for after the larger and more beautiful species were collected, there remained a host of minute shells, mostly valuable only to the systematic Conchologist, which really seemed interminable in number, for each handful of coral sand would afford a new form. The search of this beach afforded an unfailing resource, whenever the other objects of an collecting excursions proved unattainable. The living shells with a considerable variety of other marine animals were obtained chiefly on the outer reefs, which run parallel to the shore, at the distance of a mile or more. To these reefs several of us (Messrs Carter, Wright, Barron & myself) were in the habit of repairing during spring-tides, which come low here always early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Considerable rivalry was shown in the search, and the finding of a beautiful shell was the
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196 Nov.-Dec. 1854 Loo Choo the flats near Mappa eight or ten species of Sandpipers or plovers might often be seen at once, feeding or flying along the shore in small flocks; and I once fired into a flock of Curlews which must have contained more than an hundred individuals. A species of Spoonbill is found here, which we did not procure. The excursions up the beach was an oft-repeated one from its convenience and certainty. Unacquainted with the roads, one might easily lose his way, whereas from the beach short diversions into the country were easily made, and once on the beach again, the way home was plain. In proceeding up, sev- eral small streams were to be crossed, at some of which there were bridges, at others none: two or three villages embowered in trees and canes were met with and other objects of interest. At a small police station (?) built of matting we were often invited to stop to rest our limbs and smoke a friendly pipe, for the length of our excursions in this di- rection were never limited by the officials, 197 Nov.-Dec. 1854 Loo Choo My collecting and describing apparatus being ashore, my evenings, on board ship were chiefly spent in reading the works of an American author from which I derived great pleasure. On the first Sunday after our arrival here we had service on board and a sermon by Mr Moreton, the English Missionary here. The Revd Mr. is a man of pleasant manners, mild and Christian- like; he is accompanied by his wife and child- dren and is at present the only mis- sionary here. He is now devoting him-self to the attainment of the language, having been here only a few months. His predecessor, Dr Betthekeim, who was here eight years, appears to have had little success in converting these people of Loo Choo, as it is thought that there is not even a single native Christian on the island. Dr B. however has, it is supposed gained a vast amount of valuable information concerning the language, manners and customs and history of these islands, which he will take opportunity to publish. While at this part occasion was taken to stop the look in the storm; the
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198 Nov - Dec. 1854 Loo Choo Ship being brought down by the head for that purpose, by running guns, chains etc forward and hoisting the boats up by the bows. The "Regent" of Loo Choo having been visited by the Commodore and Suite, took opportunity, on the 30th November to return the visit. A large number of the Nobility in yellow and red caps denoting grades, accompanied him. He was received with a Saluto, and after a reception in the Cabin, dined with the Commodore and us in the Ward-Room. I was placed between two of the "Mandarins" and did my best toward entertaining them although neither understood more than a dozen words of English. Still, some how or other intercommunication was kept up with great vivacity and hilarity on their part, the sparkling qualities of our Champagne, of which they were very fond, soon having its effect upon them. Papa harbor, during these months is much subject to strong winds from the Northward. It blew almost a continual gale during our stay here, and sometimes it was next to impossible 199 Nov - Dec. 1854 Loo Choo to keep up communication with the Shore in boats. The Coast Trade of the Loo Chooans in their little so-to-two junks was thus much interrupted, and on a moderate day the offing and harbor would swarm with these vessels, all seizing the opportunity to prosecute their short voyages. Most of them were loaded with wood, which is abundant on the North, but scarce on the Southern half of the Island. During our stay here we were regularly supplied with fresh provisions, at cheap rates by the Government. They consisted chiefly of pork, chickens, eggs, turnips, sweet-potatoes and oranges, the latter fruit however being few and almost unfit for use. On the 2nd December the natives reported a wreck on the south side of the Island. Two of our officers proceeded to the spot and reported it to be the bark W.H. Sayward, Capt. Hodges, bound from San Francisco to Shanghai - sprung leak at sea and put in for this the nearest land, anchored in 40 f. water and went ashore in boats all hands saved. We got underway and proceeded to her assistance, as some
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200 Nov.-Dec. 1854 Lo Chou $200,000 in silver were reported to be on board, besides a large quantity of flour. We sailed around the S. end of the island, passing over and deranging the position of some dozen or more native Gill-nets set for flying fish, which were taken in great numbers here. Soon reaching the wreck we anchored near it with Kedge in Lat fours. Every effort was used during two days to cut the chain cable and haul the wreck ashore, but the chains could not be reached as the ship had settled to her upper deck and cauled over. The Captain and the part-owner (Mr. Redlock) did not seem particularly anxious as to her recovery, and after securing some 80 bags of fine fresh flour (a great boon to us) we gave it up. As we returned to Mafu on the 5th the wreck had settled much, and a day or two after, according to the natives she sank entirely. At this wreck Capt. Rogers secured for me a fine Sea-snake (Hydrophis) which was caught at the surface of the water, being struck with an oar while apparently asleep. Capt. Kedges and Mr. Redlock joined our mess, and the Sayward's crew were taken aboard, to be taken to Shanghai. Our Commodore being now anxious for a start, everything was fit on board, and the ship got ready for sea. We were still detained however, by the dilatoriness of the Government in supplying us with wood. After disappointing us and breaking promises several times, the Regent still failed to send the required article, and came up to the treaty-agreement, so that at last the Commodore resolved upon decided measures, and a military demonstration was made on the 12th. A strong force of sailors and Marines with the field piece marched to Shui to demand the immediate rendition of the wood. This had its effect: wood at once made its appearance alongside in quantities even greater than required, and some other little matters of diplomacy were settled to the Commodore's satisfaction.
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December 1854 Pacific Ocean 202 13th. This day we sailed from Los Choo 14th. N. Lat. 26°30' E. Lon. 126°48' N° NW. Av. 6 km. Wind N. Weather pleasant. We passed North of the Amakirrinwa Group and a number other Islands, upon all of which angles were taken to fix their position. 15th. N. Lat. 27°10' E. Lon 125°01' N° NW. Av. 3 km. Wind N.E. Weather pleasant. Temp. 67° At 18 M. Soundings were had in 64 fms. We are now out of sight of land. A large tortoise was passed, which dove so quickly that I had but a glimpse of it. What I saw of it reminded me of Chargis coriaceus. 16th. N. Lat. 28°10' E. Lon 124°12' N½ NW. Av. 3 km Very pleasant, water smooth. Wind light E°. Temp. 72° At 12 o'clock Soundings 55 fms. 17th Sunday N. Lat. 28°50' E. Lon. 123°04'. N½ NW. Abdk. Wind N.E. Weather pleasant. Temp. 63° Soundings at 12 o'clock 30 fms. 18th. N. Lat. 29°37' E. Lon 122°34' Wind light ENE S.p. 58' At daylight we made land, - the Islands of the Chinese Coast near Chu-san. A chilly influence was felt as I came on deck, and the dark yellow color of the water showed at December 1854 Pacific Ocean 203 once that we were off one of the great Chinese rivers. Our purpose was to go into Shanghai to leave our wrecked passengers, but seeing a ship near us, also bound in, which proved to be the clipper "Nishin-gake" we put them on board of her, together with some letters for home. Being thus saved the necessity of remaining long on the coast we kept off for that sea again, but the wind failing we were obliged to anchor a while with the Kedge to prevent being carried to leeward by the tide at night. 19th. N. Lat. 29°20' E. Lon. 122°40' N½ ESE. Av. 3 km Wind NE. Temp. 60° A light wind gives us an offing. 20th. N. Lat. 29°03' E. Lon 124°13' N² NE. Av. 5 km Wind S.E. Weather pleasant. Temp. 64° 21st. N. Lat. 30°44' E. Lon. 126°38' N½ NE. Av. 6km Wind NW. Weather stormy Temp. 56° In the afternoon the wind increased into a violent gale. 22nd. N. Lat 31°15' E. Lon 128°23' N½ ENE. Av. 4 km T. 48° The storm still continues. At night were ship, fearing to get away the rocks off the Japanese Coast. 23rd N. Lat 31°14' E. Lon 129°11' Sailing to the N°. Av. 5 km Wind N. light. Temp. 49° Heavy sea
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204 December 1854 Japanese Seas 23rd (continued) We found ourselves among the small rocky islands off the E. W. coast of Japan, the nearest being "Roche Poncee" upon which with other angles was taken. 24th N. lat. 31°42' E. long. 128°38' /Steering to N° 4 knots Wind N. Weather cloudy Sunday Temp. 52° The "Asses Ear" and other islands came in sight and were triangulated upon. 25th Christmas N. lat. 32°03' E. long. 127°31' Steering about the Asses' Ear Wind N.E. Weather pleasant Temp. 56°. We had an entertainment in the Ward Room, - all sorts of good tings, with wines, Champagne and Eg- Noff ad lib. - to which all the officers were invited from the Commander to the Master's Mates. A very jolly time. At 8 P.M. I heard the order "Ready about" suddenly given, and running on deck found we had got round just in time to clear a dangerous rock not laid down in the Charts. The black Craggy Mass seemed but a stone thrown from our taffrail. 26th N. lat. 32°05' E. long. 128°09' Steering about "Asses Ear" 4 knots Wind Variable, light Temp. 64° Fixing the position of the rock discovered last Night, which was called "Vincennes Rock" At from the large islands of Goto were in sight to the N.E? 27th N. lat. 31°18' E. long. 129°39' Steering about, Surveying with a stiff breeze, Yonda that sail. Wind N. Western cloudy. Temp. 60°. We passed again "Roche Poncee" and other islands, discovering a new group of rocks which were called Dobbins's Rocks (some are wastfully proposed to call them "Dobbins' Ears", in contra-distinction to the Asses' Ears") In the afternoon we made the Kiwsin, part of the main lands of Japan, ahead. 28th N. lat. 31°16' E. long. 130°28' Steading to E° N°. 4 km. Wind N. Temp. 50. Western cloudy but cool and not very unpleasant. We rapidly approached the W. N.E. coast of Kiwsin, and ran along close un- der its lee, which gave us a fine panoramic view of the country and coast. More beautiful scenery can scarce exist, and our enjoyment of it is scarce equalled by any thing which has yet occurred in this cruise. As we pas- sed along, opening one after another the little coves and harbors each occupied by its village and fishing boats, we would shut closely by the separating promontories, with their
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206 December 1854 Kagoshima Bay slender, pyramidal, and often perforated out- lyers. We rounded "Peak Horner" a regularly conical mountain of some 2000 ft in height, and commenced beating up Kagoshima Bay. At each tack I threw over the side, and got a variety of small shells, chiefly of a curious genus allied to Margaritas. A Japanese boat came off with provisions, and by signs the men in it, some of whom came on board, ordered us out of the bay. But seeing that we persisted, they at last pointed out a good anchorage in a small bay of the Western coast there whither we went at once and came to in 5 fms coarse sand. Kagoshima Bay We spent nine days at this place, and although we experienced much bad weather, the time passed very pleas- antly in this most interesting coun- try. The air was cold, and the hills around us were covered with a slight depth of snow on one occasion, although the temperature did not descend below 207 January 1855 Kagoshima Bay the freezing point. Two volcanoes, both in activity, were seen from our ship, one in Kiisin, North of the Bay, the other an island to the south- ward. A survey of the Bay and vicinity was made, while the Japanese authorities of this part of the country were carrying on constant negotiations with us the object of which was to make us understand that we must leave these waters immediately. But since we could not speak Japanese nor they En- glish they could not impress this fact upon our minds, notwithstanding their grandees and scribes visited the ship almost daily, and tried to compile from "Medhurst Dictionary" a statement of the case. Finally it was agreed that we should sail on the reception of a quantity of wood and water, since, according to the "Perry" treaty, U. S. ships, with men-of-war and free- chantmen, can visit any port in Japan when distressed for supplies. An "Observatory" was established on shore, and instruments set up, under the superintendence of Mr Brooke This was the only point at which we
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208 January 1855 Kagoshima Bay could land entirely unmolested, and my shore-collections were chiefly made here. Strang parties did, however, occasionally landed at other places, though ordered off by the officers who continually har assed the shores. Near the observing station, between tide- marks, was a warm spring, in a slight cavity in which one might observe nu- mberous dead crustaceans and mollusks, which had gotten in there during the flouring of the tide, when the heat would of course be more perceptible. One day Mr Wright and myself ac- companied the Commodore on a sur- veying expedition toward the mouth of the Bay, along its western shore. We landed in "Rock Rock" a pyramid about 8 ft in height, perforated through its lower half by a hole through which a boat might pass with oars ex- tended. While the Commodore took angles we gathered plants, seaweds, barnacles crustaceans, and littoral shells. On our way back to the Ship we saw large flocks of ducks in the small 209 January 1855 Kagoshima Bay rocky coves. We landed on a smooth sand beach, and were immediately surrounded by crowds of Japanese among whom were sev- eral officers, who were distinguished by their finer dress and the two swords. Mr Wright and myself immediately rushed off in different directions, - he for plants, - I for shells, with small varieties of which the beach was strewn. I was continually elbowed and pushed by the be-sworded gentry, who tried every means to urge me back to the boat; but knowing that they would not proceed to extremities I persevered, un- til, when the time approached for the boat to shore off, I had a considerable num- ber both of species and individuals. Some of the Japanese even helped me in col- lecting. In the mean time the Com- modore had been showing these people the operation of a revolving pistol by firing at a mark. We returned to the Ship having had a pleasant excursion. The chief method of collecting which I found convenient here, consisted, of course, in dredging operations, which were highly
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210 January 1853- Nagasaki Bay Successful. Within a moderate distance from the ship I found nearly every variety of bottom. The anchorage, in five fathoms, was on a coarse sandy bar, which I dredged from the deck — casting the dredge for ward and hauling it in aft. In the Cove, or junk-harbor, I found soft mud in two fathoms, rich in Spatangoid Echi- ni, Ophiuroida and shells. In the open bay the water gradually deepened to 30 and 40 f. — here I found a rich shelly bottom, with some coarse gravel, which yielded the usual forms proper to such localities, among which were myriads of Comatulæ. Many of the sea-animals here found presented unusual peculiarities of form or habit. An Ophelia-like worm oc- curred which possessed a true lamelli- form tail-fin, like that of a fish. An Amphipod, allied to Cerapus, lived in small shells, which it carried about with it, as does the Pagurus, or hermit- crab. And that rare and dubious fish, the Amphiscœus, the lowest of Vertebrata, was here common on sandy bottoms. No birds were obtained here with the ex- ception of a fish-hawk, which was shot by Mr Brooke. The fishes met with were few, and those chiefly caught in the dredge. A large species of Mackerel was com- mon, many of which were given us by the Japanese as food, together with sweet-potatoes and a large species of turnip resembling a radish in shape. The surveys being completed, and having received supplies of wood and water, we had no further excuse or occasion to remain in the bay. On the 6th we weighed anchor, and ran across, and then out, of the bay, ta- king angles as we went, on the lands in sight. At noon we were in N. lat. 30°57′ E. long. 130°98′ Heading S. 3 knots. Wind N.N.W. Temperature 50° 7th. N. lat. 30°22′ E. long. 130°46′ Wind N.W. Cloudy. Temp'ts In the morning we found ourselves to be west of Sanegasima, for which island we con- cluded beating up. 8th. N. lat. 30°12½ E. long. 130°59′ Wind N.W. Stormy Temp' 56° Still beating up for Sanegasima, under double-reefed topsails 311 January 1853- Japanese Seas
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212 January 1855- Japanese Seas (Tanegasima) 9th N. lat 30°19' E. long 130°45' Wind S. Weather fine Temp 53° At noon we anchored in a small light near the southern extremity of Tanega-sima. A boat was sent ashore with officers to make Observations, among whom were Messrs Wright and Brooke. With the permission of Capt. Rodgers I took the "Second-cutter" and went into the light to dredge under sail. The bottom was mostly Sandy, depth about 10f. The locality was rather barren, but I obtained a variety of Shells, some Starfishes (Astrpoeus) and Echini of a flat form (Melita). From Mr Wright on his return, I received a few shells and Amphipoda. I had no opportunity of landing, for the 10th next morning we sailed early, and passed between Tanegasima and Taku- mo-sima. Here my large dredge was put over in 50 fms, with a six-inch hauser, but the frame catching on the bottom, the handles were torn out and the machine consequently lost. We passed along the N. shore of Tak- erasima, and so on to the Southward. 213 January 1855- Japanese Seas 11th N. lat. 29°43' E. long 130°52 Wind E. Cloudy Temp. 65° We made Akerene and Pacific is. in the morning, and ran for them. On hearing the land we hauled on a wind and passed to the eastward of it. The weather became stormy and the wind increasing soon brought us down to double-reefed top- sails. 12th N. lat 28°30' E. long 130°00 Wind E. Stormy Temp 65° Toward noon we made Kikais is. and bore away to pass to leeward of it. When within two miles of its western extremity we made land to the westward, wore ship and stood to the northward, the gale still continuing heavy. My time recently chiefly employed in cataloguing and putting up small shells. 13th N. lat 28°30' E. long 130°25 Wind N.N.W. Stormy Temp 65° Before I sick in the morning the gale broke suddenly, and it became quite calm, when, in a few minutes a tremendous gust from the westward announced the commencement of a gale in that direction - the opposite of that of the one just experienced. We headed to the Southward, and at
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January 1855 Nukaia I. three junks were seen moored. On the 19th the Captain, some officers, and the scientific corps, including myself, went ashore, landing in the cove near the junks, which proved from their build, to be Japanese. We were all well armed, as our arrival had evidently produced a great commotion, - men on horse-back rushing about, crowds collecting etc. The people however did not oppose our landing, although several were armed with match-locks. The Captain, with his customary boldness, proceeded at once to the summit of the hills, followed by numbers of the people, including of officials, etc., while the rest of us branched off in different directions in search of sketches, plants, specimens of shells etc. each accompanied by a crowd of curious observers, some of whom rendered themselves useful by aiding us in collecting. These people exactly resemble the Leu Chouans in appearance of face, beard, clothing, etc., and dress their hair in the same manner, most of them wearing the two hair-pins, (of brass) - but the lower orders wear only a single brass pin, which is long and slender, curved and trenchant at the end. The Mandarins however dress January 1855 Nukaia I. in every respect like the gentlemen of Japan. Of these we saw three during the later part of our visit: - they had seated themselves on lacquered camp-stools, in a semi-circle before some mats, as if wishing to have a council with our Captain, who was then present. A guard, holding their three standards (like those of Japan) and several black match-locks of fine workmanship arranged themselves behind them. These dignitaries appeared very sullen and stupid, and finally, pointing to a pig and some vegetables which had been brought up, signified to us that there was what we probably wanted, and that we might now be off, which we accordingly did, - all returning to the ships for dinner. They would receive no pay for the provisions. We did not again go ashore. My examinations, for the short time allowed, were confined to the sea-shore, the tide being fortunately out. The island is surrounded by a rocky shore or reef, precisely like that of Lou Cho, and, although a little more barren, this reef is inhabited by nearly the same marine animals: the shells in particular being nearly all the same, and showing a marked difference from those of
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218 January 1853 Nikaid J. Lameja-sima. Among the novelties were a Ne- mertes, a Planaria, a large, pretty-colored, barniform Actinia, a few Annelides, a Do- rin, and a Synapta. Two strange Mol- lusks were also found, one an Onchid, with branched papillae on the posterior part of the back, the other a Patella- like gastropod with a coriaceous test. Coral's abounded on the rocks below low-water mark. Two species of Helix, also common in Loe Cho, were abundant under the stones in pastures, in company with an indigo-colored O- niscus or pill-bug. Weather fine. Temp. 66° 20th At 3 o'clock in the morning we were found to be dragging our anchor and as it was blowing a gale, and the wind veering, rendering our berth very unsafe, we got underweigh at 4 o'clock. The wind which had been veering to the Eastward, came round a- gain to the Northwestward, blowing heavily and in squalls, with thick weather. We com- menced beating up for Ousima under treble- sheeted topsails and courses. At noon we were in N. lat 28°12' E. lon. 129°47' N.N.W. gale. Temp. 56° At Sunset we were sufficiently under the lee of Ousima to be in smoothish water. 219 January 1853 Ousima Sail was then still further reduced, with the view of keeping our position during the night. 21st Sunday N. lat. 28°11' E. lon. 129°35' Strong N.W. wind Temp. 62° This morning we found the ship still at a considerable distance from the land, having drifted to leeward during the night. Nikaina was in plain sight to the Northeastward, while the lar- gier island (Ousima) could be seen with its numerous bays and headlands well defined. The former island can be seen from the latter in clear weather. It was just after sunset when we an- chored in a Bay (?) of Sina-u (?) on the East side of Ousima near its southern extremity; the wind still blowing violently from the Northwestward with rain-squalls. Whirlwinds were frequently met with near the land, com- ing from the defiles among the mountains. 22nd Parties were sent out to make surveys of the different coves near by and to communicate with the inhabitants, who were seen collected in crowds at various points where landing was practicable. It is probable that ours is the first European vessel which has visited this is- land, in recent times at least. I went ashore in a boat with Mr Moore. When we reached the beach, the people rushed
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January 1855 Oshima 220 down to the edge of the water, beckoned to us, and afterwards assisted us in running up the boat. They showed much curiosity, and exhibited no fear of the arms with which we were plentifully supplied. There were some of the higher class among them. They were dressed like the men of Kikaia, one of them being provided with a single sword. We were presented with four small pullets for which they would take no returns. When we wished to leave, about 20 of them took hold on the gunnel of the boat after the crew had all taken their places, and pushed us off through the surf. Having opportunities of landing at several places I made a considerable collection of invertebrata. In a brook which entered the sea at one spot, I found a Melania, a Planorbis, and two Crustaceans (Ligia and Orchestia). The two common Loschman species of Helix were also found here. In the afternoon it being low water, I made a search among the rocks for marine animals. Those found were quite different from those of Kikaia, having a more extra-tropical characters but this was perhaps chiefly owing chiefly to difference in station, as at the latter island my examinations were chiefly made in a sheltered and somewhat muddy locality, while here, at Oshima, I collected on the surf-beaten shore of the Open Sea. January 1855 Oshima 231 On the sandy and gravelly beaches I found shells resembling those of Kiu-sin in Japan, and also a fine large species of Nippona. Toward evening boats were sent (one of them out to seaward) in search of Mr Carter who was supposed to have been upset in one of the squalls which passed over the bay at intervals during the day. He returned however at sunset, having waited for one of his men, who had strolled off, and whom he was finally obliged to leave ashore. This will detain us here another Day. 23rd. A raw, cloudy, unpleasant day. The man lost yesterday was found by a party sent in search of him. He had passed the night in a sheltered place, watched by the parties of the inhabitants, who woke him every few minutes, from curiosity, and prevented him from getting any sleep. I had today an opportunity of dredging for a short time on the sandy bottom of the bay, and got a Melita, a fine new Starfish in considerable numbers, and a few other things. 24th. We got underway at eight o'clock in the morning. While heaving up to our Kedge I threw my small dredge overboard, and obtained, from a depth of thirty fathoms, some interesting additions to my collection of the animals of this place, including six species of small decapod crabs, an Ophiethrix et cetera. He stood to the southwestward
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222 January 1853- Japanese & Chinese Seas along the coast of Oshima, passing several fine harbors. At noon we were in N. lat. 28° 06' E. lon. 129° 30' Heading S½ brig 5 knots Wind N.W. Cloudy Temp. 58° At dark we had passed the island of Hakiroma, and were running due South, so as to pass to the eastward of Lo Choo, on our way to Hong Kong, for which port we are now bound, direct. My time employed in cataloguing and packing a way the shells of Kikaia and Oshima. 28th N. lat. 26° 04' E. lon. 125° 39' Heading S.W. 6kn. Wind N. Temp. 58° Weather fine. The sea exceedingly smooth; the breeze light but fair, sending us steadily along on our course. At noon the distant land of Lo Choo was seen to the N.W. 26th N. lat. 24° 12' E. lon. 125° 56' Heading S.W. Av. 9 knots, Wind N.E. Temp. 68° Weather cloudy. At night the wind increased into a gale. 25th N. lat. 22° 15' E. lon. 122° 26' Heading S.W. Av. 9 knot Temp. 62° Wind N.E. Blowing a gale. We are speeding a long toward our port, sometimes going 10 or 11 knots, under topsails and foresail, with the wind dead aft. In the afternoon we passed close to windward of Hotel Tobago Xima, and in the night hauled to the Southward, around the south end of Formosa, passing between Gadd's rocks and the "Vale rota", into the China Sea. 28th Sunday. N. lat. 21° 34' E. lon. 119° 07' Heading W½ 8kn. Wind N.E. Temp. 66° 223 January 1853- Chinese Sea Before morning we were on our course (N.W.) again for New Kong. The breeze continued very stiff, causing the ship to roll heavily, and preventing us from doing any work. 29th N. lat. 2° 41' E. lon. 114° 57' Heading W. 7kn. Wind N.E. Temp. 60° During the forenoon the weather cleared, and the wind became light, though still to the N.N.E. We made the Chinese coast, extending some distance to the Northward of Talang. We took a pilot in the afternoon, and soon found ourselves in the Bay to the Northward of Grand Lema I. At sunset we passed the "Nine pins", then Santoo, having the east- erm extremity of Hong Kong Island on our port beam. The wind becoming still lighter, at nine o'clock we were becalmed just below Ly-ee-moon passage. With light airs we managed to work up through this pass, and the bay above it; and anchored in Hong Kong Harbor, off the Naval Store-House, just after midnight, having made the short passage of six days from Oshima. Hong Kong. The "Porpoise" has not been heard of here, and this extinguishes in our minds the last hope we entertain- ed of her safety. The sad thought that she is totally lost, with all on board, including some of the fastest friends I had in the Expedition, can no longer be re- pressed.
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224 February 1855 Hong Kong, China The "Naucook" is still at Shanghai, where she has been repairing damages, she having suffered much during the winter's cruise, and getting around several times. The Schooner also had had a hard time. Lt. Hunter had died on board the "Naucook", and news has been received of the death of Capt. Davis (formerly of the "Porpoise") in the U.S., and of Dr. Hamilton, in the Susquehanna off Japan. Government has confirmed Capt. Rodgers in his command, and our Matter's Cruise is therefore certain. Mr. Redlock (our wrecked guest at Lochoo) made his appearance on board on the morning of our arrival, and invited the Course-Don and Ward-Room Officers to a dinner that afternoon, which several of us, myself included, attended. The dinner took place at the Club-house, and was excellent, the best, probably, which could be gotten up at this place. Mr. R. also presented our mess with about forty dozen of wines and brandies, as some slight (?) return for our hospitality to him;--and gave $100 to the Crew. He sailed, for San Francisco (according to his own account) the next day. 22 February 1855 Hong Kong, China For the first half-month I have been busily employed in describing the new species collected during the late cruise. In doing this I am of course confined to my rooms. The ship is undergoing an overhauling, and the sound of the caulking mallets around and over my head is no great help to patient investigation. I succeeded in bearing it however, with considerable sacrifice of health, and had the pleasure of handing in to the Commodore descriptions of 81 new species, which were sent home for publication. An Observing Station was established on shore, in some buildings on Morrison Hill, kindly placed at our disposal by the Premier. Messrs Kerr, Knox and Brooks established their quarters and commenced operations there, with their respective assistants, servants etc., and a small Marine guard. I sent my man "Pelkey" ashore, with bag & hammock, gun, taxidermical instr. etc., to make as large an ornithological collection as circumstances would allow of. He was assisted by a German Marine named Baer, and as the season was propitious, they made a collection of some value, during the two months of this, our second stay here. It would seem that many North-China birds of passage
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February 1855 Hong Kong, China spend the winter in this part of China. I was employed for some days in packing speci- mens in boxes and kept for transmission to the United States. There, by the Commodores Order were divided into two equal parts, and left in Mr De Silver's Charge to be sent at two different times or by two different ships. Duplicates were in many cases placed in both sets of pack- ages, and by this method there would be a chance of saving some examples of most of the species. I also selected from my stores in the Naval Storehouse such portion of the bottles, chemicals etc as I shall need in the coming cruise, leaving the remainder to be made use of on our return to this Port, which is probable. Mr Munroe resigned & went to Europe The Carter, our Master, was taken dangerously sick of dysentery, and was taken ashore to the house of an American Missionary, where after a month's suffering he slowly recovered. He will go home by way of San Francisco. While at this Port we enjoyed fine, though often hot weather. Indeed it is much warmer here in February than in the latter part of March and in April. I visited the Observatory about noon nearly every day to look after Selkey's look, or as a starting point for excursions after land shells etc. I enjoyed these visits very much, my stopping place being usu- ally Mr Kern's Rooms. On one occasion I made an excursion to the top of the central ridge of the island, a hard climb in hot weather, although I had a path for nearly the whole distance. At different points I branched off from the path into thickets and wooded slopes, to make collections of shells, Myriapoda, etc. I started a small red deer, of the size of an Antelope, which jumped up quite close to me, ran down into a ravine, and part way up its off- sets side, when it stopped and I had a good view of it. The "Hancock" and "Cooper" arrived during the latter part of the month. They had been engaged in surveys on the Northeast coast of China, chiefly in the Gulf of Pe-cher-len and about the mouth of the Pei-ho river, at which latter place they had been engaged, in assisting the American and British Com- missioners in their diplomatic operations and communication with the Chinese Govern- ment of Pekin.
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March 1855 Hong Kong, China In the month I recommenced marine researches. I did but little dredging however, but confined my operations chiefly to the shores of the Chinese fishing-boats which are often quite zoological treasure. I made several excursions to the bays below Ly-ee-moon passage and cruised Green Island. Fishing, both with the line and seine, was the chief object of these excursions. With the line many large rock-fish were caught, Halistes, Tules, Labri, Melasurus etc.—the operations with the seine were less successful. In some small streams of fresh-water two or three fishes new to me were caught by my ingenious Chinamen “John” and his boys, who always accompanied me on my excursions. The Hong Kong fish-market I visited regularly, and found it very rich in species, scarce a day passing with but some novelty turning up; so that here I collected some 50 species of fish which did not occur to me elsewhere. A few invertebrates new to me occurred in the shores at low waters, but in this department my last year’s researches left but little few species undiscvered of the kinds which are tolerably easy of access. March 1855 Hong Kong, China The time approaching for our departure, the necessary arrangements were made, including a few changes in the appointment of officers to the different vessels. The “Hancock” and Cooper sailed in the latter part of the month for Lo-o-cher, viz. Coast of Formosa (Pescadores Is.) where they were to seek for tidings of the “Porpoise” and the Amakirrima Is. St. McCollum, who has been all winter in the “Kennedy” at Canton, has joined the “Hancock”. The officers of the “Vincennes” are now as follows: Commander John Rodgers Ward Room Actt. Lieut. Roe “ “ Pellebrown Master Russell Artswoman Brooke Purter Boggo Surgeon Prior Secretary Knox Artist Kero Petanist Wright Zoologist Simjous Supt. Surgeon Michel Stearage Metenslogist, Shubrows Parters Clerk, Nible Captain “ Bierbower Mate Mate Thompson “ “ Kent F.O. Runer & Acting Lieut. Davis Carpenter Owens Sailmaker Berry
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April 1855 China Sea On the 6th we weighed and sailed out of Hong Kong Harbor by way of Ly-ce-moon passage, but finding the wind outside very light, we anchored for the night within the Nine-pins. The U.S. Sloop Macedonian which had followed us out, did the same. 7th N. lat. 22°13' E. lon. 114°53' Wind N.E. Moderate. Fair Weather. Temp. 70° Beating up the Coast with the Macedonian, which ship at last beats us and at sunset is far to windward 8th Sunday Mid ENG. Fine. Temp. 70° Very pleasant weather. Many vessels in sight among which is a clipper ship. 9th N. lat. 22°31' E. lon. 114°51' Wind & Weather as yesterday. Pedro Blanco Rock in sight. On our in-shore tack we approach quite close to land. 10th N. lat. 22°26' E. lon. 115°46' Wind & Weather as yesterday. Still beating up the Coast. Many ships and junk's in sight. A black Albatross (D. fuliginosa?) was seen. My time lately employed in working up notes and finishing drawings. 11th N. lat. 22°43' E. lon. 116°20' Wind and Weather as yesterday. The Chinese coast still in sight. In the afternoon the wind died away, and I had opportunity of dredging a little in 15-20 fathoms, grey sand. 12th N. lat. 22°35' E. lon. 116°53' Nearly calm. Fine. Temp. 73° Having had one of my largest Dredge-frames rigged with a canvas bag and net bottom, I tried dredging on a large scale this afternoon, from the ship, in 27 fathoms sandy bottom. The first two hauls were rather successful, a moderate quantity of sand being taken which proved to be rich in annelides and mollusks;—among the former a rare Eunice, whose slightly curved, white, translucent, horny tube resembled a crow-quill very much. At the third haul however the dredge took so large a quantity of sand that it could be with difficulty recovered, which was however at last effected, though with considerable damage to the frame. In this haul nothing of consequence was found with the exception of a large Leidia 13th N. lat. 22°56' E. lon. 117°39' Wind light E. Fair. Temp. 76° Dredging was kept up with the small instrument, the larger one undergoing repairs. The calm weather gives me a fine opportunity. The bottom gradually changes from sand to shelly sand and gravel, depth remaining about the same (between 20 & 30 fathoms). I obtain here a variety of small invertebrates which have not yet occurred to me on this Coast; among which are—a small Anotostyine Eolis, several Actinians, two Starfishes allied to Astropecten, a Camatula
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232 April 1855 China Sea a Plumularia, a Spongodia, a new crustacean allied to Hippa), a singular coralliform worm resembling the Mollusk Serripes, several other worms and Crustacea, and a species of Am- phioxus. 14th. N. lat. 23°38' E. lon. 118°21' Temp. 75° Fine. Calm Afternoon. In the morning numerous crabs, belonging to a large species of Liopa which I have formerly obtained in the Hong Kong Market, were seen swimming about at the surface of the water. I can scarcely however think these to be true pelagic Crabs, like L. pelagica. In waters of ordinary depths as at present (30 fms.) they may seek their prey at the bottom or surface, indifferently. This is however the only instance in which we have seen Ground-Crabs at the surface. In the afternoon dredging was continued on a shelly + coralline bottom, with much success. 15th N. lat. 24°26' E. lon. 119°12' Wind S.W. light Temp.77° Sunday. A fair wind has sprung up, which gradually increases, setting us along on our course through the Formosa Channel. Depths 33f. 16th N. lat. 25°32' E. lon. 121°24' Wind S.W. moderate Temp.77° At daylight we passed the N. extremity of the island of Formosa, sighting Pac-sa at the distance 233 April 1855 Off Loa Chos Is. of twelve miles. Depths in the afternoon 50 fms. 17th N. lat. 26°18' E. lon. 123°36' Wind S.E. moderate Temp. 76° Passed an English squadron bound on a cruise against the Russians. Toward evening sounded in 85 fms. Saw from the clamp-lead I obtained a new crab (Albunea?) 18th N. lat. 26°28' E. lon. 125°36' Wind S.S.E. light Temp. 78° No bottom was found at 550 fathoms depth. 19th N. lat. 26°44' E. lon. 126°29' Wind S. light Temp. 77° Toward evening we arrived among the western isles of the Loa Chos group, Houisang, Jesima,-etc. 20th N. lat. 26°33' E. lon. 127°49' Wind S. light We passed the island "Ngenhu" at which the Commodore landed, taking with him Mr Wright our botanist. I could not succeed in getting a chance to land, but received a specimen or two from Mr W. In the afternoon the Amakirrina Islands five south of us, and among them the "Cooper" was seen. 21st In the forenoon we beat up for Napo Harbor (Loa Chos) against a light S.W. wind. The weather very hot, temperature 80°. At half-past three in the afternoon we dropped anchor in the harbor. In so doing I threw over my dredge and got a haul as we rounded to. The dredge was get in by some shanties in other boats, but little however was found in it. Communication with shore commenced im- mediately. At night the "Cooper" arrived.
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236 April 1855- Loo Choo tory may be expected to be found, while the "Vincennes" generally drops anchor on- ly in sea-ports which have been previously well-searched. We are experiencing rather hot weather During this visit, the temperature averaging 80°. I took occasion one day to visit the city of Shui, the capital of the island, which I had not seen on the last visit. I started with a friend from Napa, and after walk- ing a mile or more on a causeway a- cross the paddy fields, we climbed some hills on a road paved with small beach -worn boulders. The city is concealed by trees when viewed from this (S.W.) side, and the great gate burst rather suddenly upon our view as we rose upon the level ground upon which this part of the city is placed. Enter the city by the central one of the three ports, which has an inscription over it forbidding any but Grandees to pass that way, we passed along a street bordered by high stone-walls which prevented the passengers from gazing upon the enclosed Court-yards or gardens with which each house seems provided. Many of these very solid walls 237 were of singular construction, for although with smooth and level surface, their component stones were not squared as in our structures, but seem- ed joined to each other by their natural irregu- lar surfaces of cleavage, so nicely adapted to each other, that this meandering lines of junction seemed like mere cracks upon the surface of a solid rock. We were evidently in an aristocratic part of the town, for no shops, nor even mean or indifferent looking buildings were seen, and much of the space appeared to be laid out into pleasure-grounds. Everything had a silent, dead appearance, and few people were seen stirring—than few in the streets. At last we reached the Vic-roy's Palace, a large and ancient-looking pile of solid-walls, sometimes 50 or 60 ft in height, with sloping fronts and crenations meant to form something like bastions. It resembled somewhat the medieval forts of Europe, and would seem to be the work of some more energetic race than that now living here, who have in many points of character, perhaps de- generated from their ancestors. Within these castle-walls are the buildings of the royal household which are of the usual slight
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238 April, 1853. Loo Choo wooden structure common in Loo Choo. We then went on until we arrived at one of the grand temples to which after much opposition from the Bonzes or shaven-headed priests, we gained admittance, and inspected the idols, tumtums, prayer-books &c. By striking the great brass bell of the place which was some six feet in height and thus in diameter we soon drew a large and excited crowd of people around us, vociferating and gesticulating in a violent manner as if we had committed sacrilege: this crowd continued with us until we left the city, trying to force us away without violence however. We visited the library where we saw piles upon piles of folios of writings of all ages, with ancient-looking scribes seated in the different rooms busily engaged in writing or transcribing. Here we partook of tea and pipes which were politely served to us. After strolling a little in a picturesque valley in the centre of the city, in which were two pretty artificial ponds or canals somewhat choked with weeds, the time approached when we should take our departure, so we pressed into our service a couple of palanqueers, which these people willingly furnished us on the prospect of getting rid of us, - and came down to landing place at a rattling pace, which our bearers kept up, showing wonderful power in the "wind" for this hot climate. On the 24th we got underway, in company with the "Hancock" and "Cooper" at daylight. We coasted along the west shore of Loo Choo, heading North and at noon were in lat. 26°41' N. Wind S.W. We passed between the Montgomery Islands and Great Loo Choo, taking angles, bearings &c for a survey, and at night hove to. 28th. N. lat. 27°15' E. lon. 128°31' Wind S.W. Fine. Temp. 78°. At daylight off the North end of Loo Choo. We kept off to the northward for Oukin, passed to the westward of this island and luffing up under its lee, sailed along its northern shore so close as to be able to perceive the houses, cattle, and people. It appears to possess no good harbor, and is not wooded. At sunset Kakiroosma was in sight to the N.E. 29th Sunday. N. lat. 28°20' E. lon. 129°33' Wind S. Temp. 80°. We passed to the westward of Kakiroosma and made the mountains of Ousima to the northward. By noon we were 239 April, 1853. Off the Loo Choo Islands
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240 April 1855 Cusima sailing among the small islands at the south- cern end of the group. We rounded the western end of Katavaiuna and ran into the strait which separates this island from Cusima. This strait is narrow, about nine miles in length and from 1/4 mile to 3 miles in width, consisting in fact of a chain of harbors or more properly Sounds with an average depth of thirty fathoms. The shores are bold and abound in beautiful Scen- ery, and it was with sensations of delight that we sailed on into the strait, cove after cove and headland after headland opening to the view, on the shores of this pleasant "Island of Harbors", while it added much to our pleasure to consider that we are in all pro- bability the first Europeans that ever entered here. The weather being most pleasant, the breeze light but sufficient, our powers of enjoyment were fully occupied, and to most of us this was certainly the most agreeable part of the cruise. We anchored in a small bay on the south- cern shore of the strait, opposite a small village, the inhabitants of which shortly after came off in large boats to look at us. They were very cautious at first and approached 241 April 1855 Cusima warily, with frequent stopping, but at last gaining confidence they came on board. They were all of the lowest class, and smelt horribly of garlic, so that we were glad to get rid of them as soon as possible. Just after we anchored the breeze fell, and the heat on deck became very great nearly 100° F. 30th Surveying operations commenced immediately. The "Cooper" arrived, having come through the strait from the eastern entrance. She sailed again in the evening to continue the survey of the strait. I spent the morning in dredging near the an- chorage, finding only a few shells and Ophiurids on the sandy mud in 15 fms. On the rocky shores I got but little today, the tide not being well out, one 8-fingered Istioacanthonus however were found. Picking on coral bottoms in 1-3 fms along the shores, I caught a few pretty colored fish. Temperature this day averaging 75°. The tide-gauge was set up on shore, men remaining there nightly to attend it. We had no further communication with the villagers, ex- cpt occasionally on shore, We saw no women in the village, they having probably been re- moved on our arrival. Our people ranged at will over the country without molestation.
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242 May 1855 Odsuma 1st. This Day I spent mostly in searching for specimens ashore, in the Paddy fields and on the hill-sides. In the former station occurred many frogs (Rana & Hyla), some fresh water shells (Paludina & Melania) and Planaria. Many seeds leaves many species of lacuces and land Planaria were found, but land shells, except the common species, were rare. On the hill-sides I found a singular terrestrial annelide. In moist pond-holes among the hills a spotted red Salamander was abundant, and a few laceratus occurred among the rocks and about the houses of the inhabitants. The hill-sides were covered in many places with a kind of raspberry, large though of little flavor, of which we all partook freely and with considerable satisfaction, as an agreeable change from salt provisions. Strange to say, as far as we could learn, the natives did not use them as food. Two Japanese junks of the largest size arrived today, and anchored in the same cove with us: mooring with stern-foots ashore and two anchors out ahead. Air temp. today 73° 2nd Wishing to make some explorations farther off the Strait, and in some of the other harbors, I took a boat and pulled along shore, around several headlands, and arriving at the mouth of small but deep cove stopped to try the dredge. 243 May 1855 Odsuma Here in 15f. sand I got several small shells, fresh-water crabs (Lambrio?), a small feather-star etc. Entering the Cove I found a considerable portion of it shallow (273f.) with a smooth sandy bottom covered with a peculiar kind of algae resembling net-work. By dredging up quantities of this seaweed I secured a small fish (Chirosector) crabs (Thalamites) & Corallina and several kinds of shrimps. On a sandy bottom in six fathoms at the bottom of the Cove I was fortunate enough to dredge a small Lingula, the first I ever saw alive. It being Spring-tides, I anxiously awaited the fall of the waters, which retiring at last, exposed the finest beach for zoological purposes that I have ever met with. It formeded, in the first place, the most important quality of a good beach, being thickly covered with flattened, irregular boulders and masses of coral, of different sizes, but generally not so large that the could not be turned by one, or at most two men. In the next place the locality being perfectly sheltered, no boisterous waves could ever arise to wear away the jagged surfaces of the rocky fragments, where cavities offered concealment for so many small animals, nor to thus disturb the delicate organization of the most fragile marine forms, which could live here in
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May 1853 Oshima perfect safety. Finally no fresh-water sup- tied here, nor did muddy tidal currents sweep by the ship, the water being as clear as in the open ocean, with no impurities which could injure the tender gills of Mollibranchiates, or entangle the waving arms of the most delicate polypes. In fact all of the con- ditions of life, which most Marine animals seek for, and can only find in the still depths on the open coast, were here to be found within reach of the naturalist. It is not strange then that by amiably turning the sterns, and loading out to places now left entirely dry, I have had much the finest basket of speils that it has ever been my fortune to collect in one day. Among these were many fine shells, Cy- praeas, Ores, Linus etc., and naked Mollusks, as Aplysia, Pleurotranchus, Doris, Coricella, Pniordoris, and Cynthia, a dozen or more fine large, and beautifully-colored species of Eurylepte and other Planarie and Nemertes, several five star-fishes, Ophiuride of great size, Many curious Holothu- mians, among which was a gelatinous, but translucent species, and a variety of Worms. Crunstacea were not presentally numerous. Echini, of three or four species were abundant. May 1853 Oshima As the tide began to rise after two hours, I was for- ced to desist. Though having collected much more material than I could possibly work up that e- vening, I am satisfied that four or five times the number of species might have been collected in this locality with further opportunity. On starting to return I was surprised to see the ship's masts over the low ridge at the bottom of the Cove, and to find that the numerous head-lands and coves around and across which we had pulled to reach this, were only those of a small peninsular - so varied and com- plicated are the windings of these beautiful shores. The Steamer "Hancock" arrived today and anchored near us. Temperature today averaging 75° F. 3rd Weather cloudy, with a strong S.W. breeze. Temp. 72°. It got under weigh early and beat out of the Straits, and sailed on before the wind along the west coast of Oshima, occasionally hewring to to take angles. At sunset, arriving off the mouth of a spacious bay or harbor, the 8th or 10th which we had seen during the day, we ran in and anchored. The bay was called Fo-kow Bay. The "Hancock" Came in late in the evening and anchored near us. She had been Surveying more particularly,
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246 May 1855 Oshima than we could do, some of the numerous harbors along the coast. The Cooper has proceeded on her cruise up the west coast of Japan 4th. A cloudy morning: stormy afternoon). Temp. 73° Boats were sent in different directions on surveying expeditions. I took a small boat and put off in a direction different from that taken by any of the surveying boats - towards the S.E. corner of the Bay where I thought I could see the mouth of a small ri-ver. Arriving at this place however I found it to be a passage into a small Circular harbor about 3/4 mile in diameter, the shores and numerous coves of which I examined zo-logically, getting a few fish (Sparus) etc. Som I found a narrow but deep passage into another harbor, bent like an elbow, and extending a considerable distance inland. Here a large junk lay moored. Saw few small inflopes and scattered huts were 247 May 1855 Oshima lean along the shores, the largest village being on the S. shore of the entrance to the first harbor. These hydrographical discoveries interest me so much that I had little time for collecting. The people paid but little attention to us although two boats put off to intercept our boat, but their crews did not offer to molest us. One old fellow kept along side, fol-lowing our motions for some time. On the way back I had several hauls of the dredge in LoF. sand, getting several novelties among which was a singular Hylopian, some flat Sea-urchins, a small Fungia in abundance, and a few shells. In the afternoon at the expense of a wet-tiny I searched the shore of the bay off our anchorage. Although at low water, I had little success in the dry washed beach, Mr Brooke here shot a large Cormorant. In the evening I reported the existence of the harbors above-mentioned, to Com. Rodgers, and he will have them properly sur-veyed tomorrow. 5th. Fine weather. The Commodore, with the greater portion of the officers of the Vessues, including W Wright and myself, and several
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248 May 1835 Ouisima of our boats and their crews, went to the "Hancock" to go up with her to the Harbors found by me yesterday. Cap. Rodgers thinking that the town on the south shore would prove to be the chief town of the island, wished to make a formal visit and to communicate with the Government. We steamed up into the inner harbor, finding plenty of water everywhere, and came to an- chor at a point beyond the elbow, but much short of the distance up that we might have reached. Com. R. and suite started for the town with six boats containing the officers and men for the procession to visit the authorities, and returned after three hours. The Wright and myself landed to make collections. I found several species of curious land shells new to me among straws, under dead wood etc. in com- paratively open places, but after penetrating some distance into the woods I could find no more. The thickets abounded in white and red raspberries, upon which we feasted ad lib. At low water I went down to the shore and under stones on a gravelly-mud beach, found a variety of marine animals new to me. Among the shells was a species of Malleus which appeared to be common here. 249 May 1835 Ouisima & neighboring Is. Returning on board the Hancock we dined, and pro- ceded on our return to the Venceunes,- running along the shores of the outer harbor and enter- ing its many coves. The vessel grounded once, but was got off without much difficulty; general- ly we found a sufficient depth of water quite close to the shore. We arrived at the Vou- cesnes at about sunset. 6th Weather cloudy, squally in the morning. We get underway early this morning and com- menced beating out of St. Kao bay. In one of our in-shore tacks we narrowly escaped grounding on a shallow rocky bottom which made off from the land. Getting clear of the land we made several stretches off and on getting a survey of the North extremity of Ouisima, and of some rocks which lie off this part of its coast. 7th N. Lat. 28o49' E. lon. 129o02' Wind E. Fine Temp. 74o Made the Cleopatra Is. two in number. As we pas- sed on the E. side of them, the Hancock pas- sed on the West, and some of her officers landed on one of them, which is an extinct Volcano - a perfect cone with a very deep crater. A hut was found, with fish, fresh & dried, but the inhabitants were not seen.
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May 1853 Japanese Islands having probably lied themselves. They were perhaps only fishermen. Capt. Stevens found, in a basket near the hut, some living sea snakes of large size, and of two species, which were preserved. In the afternoon, passed Takara T Sabme I. 8th N. lat. 30°03' E. lon. 129°57' Cloudy Wind E.S.E. Temp. 76° We passed Kouchichi, Victorious & Archimedes Is. and toward evening made Takumo-sima. 9th N. lat. 31°04' E. lon. 131°18' Wind S.E. Temp. 73° In the morning we were passing along off the East side of Tanegasima. At noon we hauled up to the N. E. and were soon out of sight of land. A few Albatrosses (D. fuliginosa) were seen. 10th N. lat. 31°55' E. lon. 134°39' Cloudy Wind S. Temp. 78° 11th N. lat. 33°20' E. lon. 137°40' Wind W. Temp. 69° 12th N. lat. 34°32' E. lon. 138°06' Wind Variable Temp. 69° In the morning we made land, - the coast of Niphon. Soon after we saw the great extinct volcano "Fusi-jama" towering above the clouds, its conical top covered with snow, which made it at first difficult to distinguish from the clouds, which was white also. The breeze was light and unfair, so that we made slow progress, but by sunset had beat up under the S. coast of Ido. Many Japanese vessels were in sight May 1853 Japan on the coast. I got a haul of the dredge in 20 fms. sand. on one of our tactics, and got a few small shells and an Ophictepis. At noon the broad pennant of Caumodore Rodgero was hoisted at the main. At night we have to. 13th Weather equally. A thick fog. Wind S.W. strong. In the forenoon the weather clearing for a short time gave us a view of the coast of Ido, and notwithstanding, the fog, the Caumodore re- solved to run for our port (Simoda) as it had been surveyed and its position accurately determined by Capt. Perry. Running along the coast we at last made Block Island, rounded it, and bore away due North. Nothing but a few detached rocks could be seen, but we knew that at the bottom of the dark fog- gy hole ahead of us was a safe anchorage and sure enough, after a run of ten minutes we suddenly found ourselves close to the en- trance of the port, and a few moments after we were at anchor within it. The "Hancock" came in shortly after. We were visited by a boat containing Messrs Reed and Boby, American merchants from living here since April, and soon after by a Japanese boat with officers & the pilot.
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252 May 1853. Simoda. At this port, one of those opened to American commerce by Com. Perry, at the time of the Treaty last year, we remained a fortnight. It is a place of considerable commerce, in a Japanese point of view, but one appearing very insignificant as a sea-port, to American eyes. The town is built on a flat at the bottom of the harbor, and in front of it the water is so shallow that boats can scarce approach at low water. The houses are small, very slightly built of thin boards and strips of bamboo—partly even of paper—and are generally of one story only. Those we saw had all probably been built since the great earthquake of last December, but, with the exception of the temples, they are mostly as good as their predecessors, as the Japanese never build of stone brick or plaster, the frequency of earthquakes rendering this impracticable. One of the largest buildings, painted black, was used as a bazaar, and consisted of booths for goods, and rows of government offices, surrounding a square, open space. This was the favorite resort for our officers when ashore, and many an hundred dollars of our money went for the splendidly ornamented nappings of Japanese manufacture. 253 May 1853. Simoda, Japan. We met here some of the Russian officers of the frigate "Diana" which was destroyed here during the earthquake. A number of her officers and men are now living at Nadi, on the south coast of Sizu, a short 50 miles from here across the land. The "Hancock" visited this port during our stay here, to survey it as well as to communicate with the Russians. The officers at Simoda, three or four in number, visited our ship several times. They are intelligent men, extremely well educated, and would compare with those of any other service. M. Charlovski, one of them with whom I became well acquainted, spoke English with fluency; the others spoke beside their own language only French and German. On the 17th the Craymoode, with a suite of officers and marines in full dress paid an official visit to the Governor; forming a procession at the landing place and marching to music to the bazur, where the Government buildings had been fitted up for their reception. After business matters had been disposed of, they were entertained at large tables set out in the square, the dinner being in Japanese style. As every thing had not been settled to the Craymoode's satisfaction at the first visit, a second of the same character was made to the Governor on
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May 1855 Sikoda, Japan 256 Stitches afforded small fishes resembling Cobitis. In the river were percoid fishes of considerable size (which however could not be caught) with gobies, large shrimps (Palamom) and multitudes of a bivalve shell (Cyprea), Paludina, Melania etc. were also found. A path extended for some miles along the bank of the river, rendering the walk a very pleasant one. The small confluent brooks generally turned the large undershot wheels of the mills, where the corn or rice was reduced to flour by the stamping or hammering process as in China. I searched the hill-sides and wooded places for land shells, with no success however, the only ones found being the ones common in most of the Japanese & Chinese ports. Two species of lacertae however a were found; and a venomous snake was captured by Mr Brooke. Shortly before our departure we received a present from the Prince, consisting of a variety of finely lacquered wooden dishes, containing various edibles in high estimation among the Japanese—chiefly lobsters, rice-cakes, turnips, gingerbread and rolls of rice-pudding packed in the edible seaweed; there being for dessert some small soft, globular cakes each containing a portion of dark red sugar. 28th. This day we got underweigh and stood out to sea, the launch starting at the same time, and the "Hancock" following shortly after. Our launch has been undergoing equipment for some days for her coasting voyage to Nakodadi, and now looks bravely under her mainsail, squaresail, jib, flying jib, jib topsail, and gaff topsail. She is furnished with a forecastle and poop, with weather bulwarks and covers of tarpaulin. The crew consists of Mr Brooke (Commanding), Mr Kern, Mr Berry and 10 men, including my assistant "Skelley". She is to survey the coast, and to land wherever it is practicable. She beat up the bay of Tedo while we stood out to seaward past the island Ohosima. 29th. N. lat. 35°08' E. long 140°20' Wind light, Vble. Temp. 70°. The Coast of Japan in sight. Plume fishing boats passing occasionally. 30th. N. lat. 35°42' E. long 140°52' Wind N.E. light. Temp. 70° Coast still in sight. The fishing boats have become very numerous, and are seen in all directions. At noon I went in a boat to try and obtain some fish, and got several species. I also picked up a fulmar-petrel May 1855 Japanese Coast 257
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May 1855 Japanese Coast which was floating dead upon the water, but fresh though with no marks of violence upon it. 31st N. Lat. 36° 16' E. Lon. 140° 43' Wind ENE light Temp. 69° Beating up the coast. At times during the day the sea was almost calm. Fishing boats crowded around us, supplying us with many species of fish in exchange for bottles, etc. We get enough to furnish a good meal for nearly all on board. Specimens of fishing-hooks and lines were also obtained. I went in a boat to some of these fishing-boats, and we were nearly swamped and stove by those heavy, clumsy craft which pressed up against us in every direction. Some boats also put off from the towns along the coast, from the people in whch we got coins, pipes etc. in exchange for buttons and other trifles. Among the fish obtained at this time were species of the genera Scamber, Platyccephalus, Plat- essa, Myliobatis, Rhinobatis? Pastinaea? Squatina Scorpaena, Trigla, Sarzus, Clupea, Caraux, Alasa? Engraulis, Cottus? Othello orrus Mustelus. The small herrings and Anchovies were chief- ly used as bait; but for this purpose some had crabs and Cuttlefish, of which we took speci- imens. June 1855 Japanese Coast 31st N. Lat. 36° 30' E. Lon. 140° 51' Nearly calm. Temp. 72° The coast still in sight, though at a much greater distance. Several Japanese vessels also in sight. 2nd N. Lat. 37° 34' E. Lon. 141° 43' Wind S. light. Fog. Temp. 70° No land in sight. A gradually increasing Southerly wind. The Hawke was seen astern but im- mediately after shut in by the fog. 3rd N. Lat. 39° 18' E. Lon. 142° 26' Wind S.E. Thick. Temp. 66° Sunday. Coast in sight at noon. 4th N. Lat. 41° 30' E. Lon. 141° 30' Wind E.S.E. Temp. 58° Blowing a gale, with thick weather and dense fog. Running west we suddenly discovered land a- head and quite close - this was the N. extremity of Niphon. We thus wore, and heading N.E. in the afternoon saw land to the E.? (Tesso I) Under reefed topsails and courses. 5th N. Lat. 41° 44' E. Lon. 141° 21' Wind W.S.W. Temp. 56° The fog clearing away about noon, and the wind moderating we found ourselves in the Strait of Sangar, in a tremendous chaffing, boiling, irregular sea, occasioned by the strong set of the current against the wind. This current running in an easterly direction was dead against us, and we made no progress.
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June 1855 Japan 260 6th This day we spent in the Straits of Sanguar, making ineffectual attempts to stem the current, with a light variable wind. Soundings in 45 fms. were had with the clump- lead, by which I obtained several Chelonoped Crustaceans and a fine Sertularia. Many fine Alga floated past, among which were large Laminariae and Sargassum, and a fine and curious Agarum, 10ft long and 1ft wide. On the seaweeds were found Cresestis in abundance. We anchored with the kedge in the channel, but found the current so strong that the hanser was near parting, and we had much difficulty in securing the apparatus, even with the help of two capstans. We then ran in near the Jesse shore and anchored with a lower & chain where the current was less powerful. In the afternoon a fine S.E. breeze sprang up. We weighed, and be- ing able to stem the current, proceeded slowly up toward Nakodadi. We passed abundance of large Medusa, consisting chiefly of a Beroe of a pinkish color, a Yellow Ganea, and a Staurophora. At midnight we arrives off the Harbor of Nakodadi and anchored. June 1855 Nakodadi, Japan 261 7th We got underweigh early in the morning, and beat up to the anchorage off the town of Nakodadi. The number of vessels in the har- or was six - much greater than we had expected. The Navrock and Cooper had arrived, the former three, the latter one day before us. Our store-ship the "Jute" from New York had been here nearly three weeks. We got some N.Y. Newspapers by her. Two English vessels of war, (Saracen and Tartar) are also here, be- ing part of the Squadron now engaged in watching the Russian fleet in Castro Bay. Finally there is an American brig from San Francisco, part whaler and part trader, which brought here two merchants who wished to es- tablish here a depot for supplying whalers with stores. With less success however than Messrs Doty and Reed met with at Shimoda, they have not been permitted to take up their residence on shore. The weather being stormy, none of us went on shore today. Temp. 62° - at midnight 53° 8th A steady cold rain, prevents us from leaving the ship. 9th Cloudy. Early in the morning I went a- shore to be present at the hauling of
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June 1855 Nakodadi, Japan 262 our ships since in the beach which sur rounds the N. and W. sides of Nakodadi Bay. Salmon abound in their waters, but we were less successful than others and got only two or three small ones. However I got a few fish in the collection, as Rottessa stellata, a Cottus, three large species of crabs and an Echinarachnius In the afternoon I dred- ged in 8f. weedy sand, and gathered numerous small Crustacea etc. 10th Today being Sunday I made no collections, but took a walk ashore, in the principal street of the town, which was upwards of two miles in length when lined with buildings, and extended far along the beach to the westward forming the chief highway into the country. It was filled with trains of horses and cattle, bear- ing goods brought here for export; no carts be- ing made use of. Shops are very numerous and seem to drive a thriving business. Large quantities of dried Salmon, and some skins of toters and deer are exported from this place. The chief imports appear to be rice and sugar. The lacquered ware and fancy articles generally here are not as fine as those seen at Simoda, though this is much the larger June 1855 Nakodadi, Japan 263 town. It is a place of much commerce, and nearly an hundred Japanese vessels of various sizes are lying in the harbor. 11th Cloudy. Today I visited a part of the town inhabited by the fishing population, and got specimens of several marine animals, with some information with regard to the kinds used as food. A large Molotturia, nearly iden- tical in size and general appearance with our Cucumaria frondosa, and a species of Echinus, both dragged up from the bottom of the harbor; are here eaten in large quantities. In the afternoon I visited the Bazaar, which is here held in a temple, and is on a very small scale compared with that at Simoda, and, as at that place, patronised by foreigners only. In the evening I killed a gull in the har- bors, by a lucky shot from a pistol at 200 yds. distance. The shooting of birds and ani- mals" however is not allowed in Japan, as is specified in our Treaty, and this is much to be regretted, as even a small collection of birds from this Island of Tesso, would be most interesting and probably contain novel- ties. This gull, together with a hawk and
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June 1855- Nakodadi, Japan a small bear-like cub shot by Mr Wright, was the only mammals and birds obtained at this Port. Several "Cryotes" were seen in the meadows back of the town, where their holes were quite numerous, but none were shot. 12th In the middle of Nakodadi Bay, there is an extensive area of shelly and gravelly bottom in from 8 to 14 fathoms, which is thickly covered with large Holothurians and Echini, and affords a fine field for the researches of the marine Zoologist. My attention was first called to this ground by observing numbers of fishing boats collected there, which I found on approaching them, to be engaged in dredging for Shells and Echinoderms, which are here used as food. The dredge used by these fishermen resembles our zoological dredge except that the frame is made of wood, and sunk by a heavy attached stone. This is dropped at the desired spot, the boat then being moved off to a considerable distance - the length of the dredge-worms - and anchored by the boom, the dredge is thus hauled in on the opposite side. June 1855- Nakodadi, Japan Finding this spot very prolific in new and rare forms of invertebrate I spent several days in dredging it. Radiata were particularly abundant, including three Ophiura, two Eolaster (corresponding to our S. japponica and S. endeca) as large Uraster like our rubens, an Astro-pseetus. Several Holothurians two of which belonged to the genus Pentacta, one being the P. fimosa before mentioned. Of Crustacea a dozen species of Amphipods were found, and half that number of shrimps; also a Dorippe. The dredge also brought up two Coniim fishes, a Liparis and a Hippocampus. 13th This day I continued my examination of the ground noticed yesterday. In the afternoon as my general custom now is, I visited the town. 14th This morning I visited a curious cave in the rocky bluffs forming the eastern cape of Nakodadi Bay. In this cave Mr Squires of the "Hancock" had recently obtained some bats, and I wished to secure some specimens myself. It is accessible only by boat, and extends some hundred yards into the solid rock, with high arched roof and great depths of water. Having made
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266 June 1853- Hakodadi, Japan a line fast at the entrance , we dropped our boat gradually in , a curve in the direction of the cave soon shutting out the light, and leaving us in total darkness . We lifted a can- dle , but this by no means served to enlighten the vast black cavity, scarcely enabling to distinguish objects about the boat. We could only hear the heavy murmuring and dash- ing of the surf against the walls on either side , and it required all our care to keep the sides of our boat from the rough con- tact of the rocks . Impelled by curiosity we find a pirogue, and experienced the stunning reverberation of the report in this confined area, luckily escaping being smashed by the fall of any masses of rock from above , which might well have followed this somewhat hazardous experiment. Being sufficiently amused, we hauled out without attempting to reach the bottom of the cavern , which must of course sink at some unknown depth in the bowels of the Rimontory. At the entrance we collected some starfishes and a number of five large edible new- shells resembling exactly M. edulis. In the afternoon I hauled the seine 267 June 1853- Hakodadi, Japan . on the beach , but caught very little, - only a Gobius and a Gymellus in addition to the fishes already obtained . In the loose sands above high water mark I observed numerous small holes , in which I found an large Orchestia , a large and very curious wood-lease ( and an "Ant-lion". 15th. Made an examination of the gravelly and stony shore along the eastern cliffs of the harbor. The ground is good , and at low wa- tes afforded me many new forms, inclu- ding Planaria of the genera Stylocheus, Europ- lepta etc (the nq.) several Nemertes, two species of Edis a new genus of Doridans, a Mollusk allied to Pleurobranchus , several worms, and a singular lamelliform or disc-like Actinia, which covered the rocks at low water mark. Just below this latter limit a species of Asteria 1?) five inches in Diameters and gently colored, was common. An Octopus, two species of Echinus, some shrimps and a few Cempipedes new to me also occurred. 16th Today I made an excursion up the hill back of the town, in company with Mr Wright. We saw on the way much to inter
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June 1855- Kakodadi, Japan 268 st us, although not very successful in col- lecting. I secured a small snake and a few insects. Two or three species of Melia, of a simple characters, and a Succinea, were abundant on the leaves of Shrubbery. Be- neath the bark of a living tree I met with a small crowd of female Helices closely resembling our H. Striata. Entering a native house near the top of the hill we saw pretty fair colored drawings of the different scrolls of Perry's Squadron, by some Japanese artist. The old man in charge shewed us his flower- garden, and appeared quite pleased with our visit; he was rather puzzled however at our pertinacity in chasing dragon-flies, but soon became quite satisfied that they were intended for medical purposes. 17th Sunday. Going ashore early in the morning, crossed the isthmus connecting Kakodadi with the main-island, and took a long walk along the shore of San- gar Straits. The country was sandy and uninteresting. At a low bluff above the beach I saw a long line of drifting stone - an imperious projecting stratum in two- capturing the water which percolates through the porous strata above. In the evening the launch arrived, to the joy of all on board, after a somewhat stormy voyage of 21 days: officers and men all in good health. They had not succeeded in landing at night or in bad weather, at pleasure, as was expected, but were forced to ride out some strong gales at sea. The evening was spent in listening to the account of their various adventures. 18th - 20th These three days were spent in dredging in various parts of the harbor. 21st Today I carried my dredging operations further out to sea than usual, and ob- tained many novelties off the Promontory, on a rocky bottom; -- as large Terebratula Chitons, Echini (Spatangus and) with several small Ennstaces and worms. We made a fire, and took a dinner of fish, mussels, etc., in a small cave on the rocky shore. On the 23d I took a sail in the whale- boat with Mr Wright. We landed on the rocks near the cave, where Mr W. found many large species of alga, and I got 269 June 1855- Kakodadi, Japan
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270 June, 1855. Hakodadi, Japan a harvest of Chirotopeds among their lux- uriant fronds. On a general view of the marine fauna of this part of Japan, the naturalist can- not fail to be struck with its resemblance to that of the East Coast of North Amer- ica in a corresponding latitude - that of New England. The boral Characters greatly predominates here, and but few species of Southern Japan,-even those of Simoda, only degrees South, occur. In the Shells this is to be particularly no- ticed;-the various Species of Pectus, Mactra, Tellina, Cardita, Mytilus, Tebratulus, Tri- onium, Lettorina, etc. giving a decided Character to the whole. In the Crustacea, we notice a paucity of higher, and an abundance of lower forms. The field is a rich, and almost un- trodden one, and probably more New Species occurred to us here than at any other points of our cruise. While here we have been daily sup- plied with fresh provisions from the Shore, mostly fish, including beside Salmon, a species of Sebastes and one of Chirnos 271 June 1855- Hakodadi, Japan On an occasions we asked for beef, upon which a fat horse was sent off to us; this offer however, we were under the neces- sity of politely declining. The average temperature of fair days du- ring our stay here was 66° F. The "Hawk" and "Copper" have been en- gaged in Surveying the Straits. The former got on shore once, in sight from our ship; but got off just as were about hearing up another to go to her assistance. The "C.E. Foote" arrived from Simoda, with Messrs Reed and Doty with their party on board. They were not however enabled to effect a landing with their goods etc. to form an establishment, and sailed again for the California by way of the Ladrome It, on the same day that we left. On the 26th of June we sailed from Hakodadi. As we passed the entrance of the bay we became enveloped in fog which did not however prevent our immediately sha- ping an course through the Straits of Saragan, as we now knew the coast We Passed rapidly through the Straits
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July 1856- Japanese Coast to Newtoshakka aided by the powerful current, and at midnight were considerably to the eastward [illegible] of their eastern entrance. 27th. N. lat. 41°31' E. lon. 141°45' Foggy. Wind W.N.W. Temp. 68° Passing along S.E. coast of Jesso; the "Caspus" in company. Several large flying-fish seen. 28th. N. lat. 41°30' E. lon. 142°45' Foggy. Wind W.N.W. Temp. 65° 29th. N. lat. 42°08' E. lon. 142°08' Wind N.E. Temp. 63° 30th. N. lat. 42°17' E. lon. 144°11' Wind S.E. Temp. 65° July 1st. N. lat. 48°17' E. lon. 146°06' Temp. 56°. A fine S. wind. We saw the last of the Coast of Jesso today, which has been in sight every day since we left Sakhalin. 2nd. N. lat. 43°45' E. lon. 149°26' Wind N. Cloudy, bad weather. Several albatrosses and fulmar petrels seen; also whales, porpoises etc. 3rd. N. lat. 48°22' E. lon. 152°0' Cloudy Wind N.W. Temp. 56° 4th. N. lat. 51°02' E. lon. 154°17' Fair. Wind S.W. Sp. 58° 5th. N. lat. 48°00' E. lon. 158°30' Wind S.E. Temp. 50° 6th. N. lat. 50°39' E. lon. 159°32' Foggy. Wind S.E. Sp. 45° 7th. Foggy. Temp. 48°. It fell calm about noon and the fog lifting revealed to us in the distance the high mountains of the Kamtschatkan Coast, covered with snow. There were three of these mountains, the highest being the Volcano of Awatka July 1856- Petrovaulski, Kamtschakka June 16000 feet in elevation. Large numbers of puffins, guillemots, auks, etc., flew about the ship in various directions. 8th. In the morning we passed through the narrow entrance into the broad bay of Awatka. It then had a pretty appearance, covered with green, and generally disappointing our expectations formed from yesterday's view of the coast. There was in fact very little snow except on the mountains. The air was filled and the waters covered with sea-birds and on one isolated rock we saw hundreds of gulls crowded together sitting on their eggs. The water within the bay had a yellowish-green, muddy hue, and appeared to be brackish. At 1½ o'clock we anchored off the mouth of the small harbor of Petrovaulski, and were immediately visited by two American residents, Messrs. Chase and Duval. The town is deserted by the Russians, and has been so ever since the repulse of the English and French fleets last year. On going ashore we saw the ruins of the Government store-houses and Arsenals,
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276 July 1855— Petrovavski, Kamtschathas. Being present upon several occasions when the seine was hauled, I obtained three species of Salmon besides other kinds of fish, among which were examples of the Genera Oncorus? Morhua, Clupeus, Cottus, Meriutrister?, etc. The place, probably from the admixture of fresh water in the higher levels of the waters, is very barren in Invertebrata. At a search among the rocks and pebbles of beaches at low water I found scarce any thing but a Littorina and a Panamurus. A species of Echinus however was abundant in two or three fathom; and by dredging in deeper waters (10-16 f.) which the influence of the fresh waters did not reach, I got a considerable number of species, mostly Shrimps or Amphipods. A species of Pellina was abundant on the everywhere muddy bottom, the remaining shells consisting chiefly of species of Cardium, Nucula, Leda, and Mangelia. Considerable quantities of Eridendrium covered the bottom; the other radiata were an Ophiolpis and a Urester; and to complete the list I may mention two Crabs, a Hyas and a Pagurus. 277 July 1855— Kamtschatka. In my rambles on shore I shot a few land birds, and after a long search found a single species of Helix, which resembles most closely H. striolata of the U.S., like the Tasso species. Sea birds were not abundant about Petrovavski, with this exception of Gulls, so that I got no Ducks or divers here; notwithstanding the quantities seen from the mouth of the Bay. On the 13th we sailed, and having a tolerable breeze, succeeded in obtaining a good offing before night, when we were becalmed. Finding a depth of 20 fms., black sand I threw over the dredge, and took a fine large flounder, several flat sea-urchins, some ascidians, etc. We also threw over our cod lines and soon caught several fine Cod resembling those of the New England Coast, and weighing from six to 12 pounds. 14th N. lat. 52° 59' E. lon. 160° 00 Fine Wind S.W. Sp. 32° We are sailing slowly along the coast in Soundings. Many Birds, (Gaufrins etc.) about. 15th N. lat. 54° 04' E. lon. 161° 38' Fine S.W. breeze Sp. 32° Saw a high Volcanoe of the Coast to Wd. 16th N. lat. 56° 08' E. lon. 163° 43' Wind S.W. Temp. 52°
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July 1835 Kamtschatka Sea At noon today we saw Behring I. in the distance to the eastward. The wind very light. We are visited by unnumbered sea-birds, mostly gulls and guillemots, which are continually flying close by, but although within gunshot none are killed by our fusillade. 17th. N. lat. 56°58' E. lon. 166°35' A light E. wind. Bad weather. Temp. 50°. Many divers flying past. 18th. N. lat. 57°14' E. lon. 166°35' Foggy. Wind Vble. Temp. 52° Almost calm. 19th. N. lat. 56°47' E. lon. 168°21' Foggy. Calm. Temp. 50° Mr Brooke made a successful attempt at sound ing today, with his new lead, and got bottom in 2400. Some grills attached to the instrument came up full of soft dark-colored mud, which proved, on microscopic examination, to be chiefly composed of the silicious shields of infusoria. It are or two instances apparently living individuals were detected among these infusoria, their shells being filled with reddish or greenish [illegible] contents. No movements however, nor other signs of life were perceptible, so that these examples, if recent, had most probably been killed by the sudden change in external conditions. 20th. N. lat. 57°52' E. lon. 168°43' Wind Strong E. Temp. 47° July 1835 Kamtschatka Sea. Under topsails and courses, Ship laboring in a heavy sea. 21st. N. lat. 59°23' E. lon. 170°09' Wind ENE, a gale Sp. 48° We made land, a cape of the coast of Kamts chatka, and after approaching quite near the high promontories were and stood off. 22nd Sunday. N. lat. 60°00' E. lon. 171°08 Cloudy Wind E?, Temp. 48° Being again on the inshore tacks, we made land, and were off shore in 40 fms. gravel. 23rd. N. lat. 60°18' E. lon. 172°26' Thick. Wind N.E. Temp. 48° 24th. N. lat. 60°31' E. lon. 171°16' Wind N.E. Temp. 50° Du ring then two days land has still been in sight. It is elevated, with its ravines filled with snow. 25th. N. lat. 60°25' E. lon. 173°13' Thick. Wind E.N.E. Temp. 48° 26th. N. lat. 60°29' E. lon. 175°05' Calm. Temp. 50° Foggy, We got a sounding today in 1700 fms. green mud. 27th. N. lat. 60°19' E. lon. 174°00 Wind Vble. mostly calms. Temp. 50° 28th. N. lat. 60°32' E. lon. 174°00 Cloudy. Temp. 52° In the afternoon a northerly breeze sprang up. We got soundings for temperature of the water, which at surface was 57° - at 900 fms. 32° F. 29th. N. lat. 61°48' E. lon. 177°26' Rainy. Wind N.W. Temp. 49° Sunday. Very bad weather. 30th. N. lat. 61°05' E. lon. 180°14' Wind Wb. Foggy Sp. 48° 31st. N. lat. 62°20' E. lon. 180°21' Wind W.S.W. Temp. 50°
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August, 1855 Schering's Straits 280 A thick fog. We sounded in 43 f. blue clay: the clump lead bringing up a star-fish, some Choristopods, and the Sepions of a number of Claws (Mya truncata) which had been snipped off by the jaws of the instrument before the unfortunate Crustacea had time to retract their breathing tubes. Aug. 1. N. lat. 64°02' E. lon. 184°20' Wind S.E. Foggy. Temp. 58° We ran into Schering's Straits between St. Lawrence I. and the mainland of Asia, getting soundings in from 25 to 35 f. gravelly and gritty mud bottoms. In the clump-lead I found a number of small crustaceans' shells etc. At 8 o'clock in the evening the fog cleared away for a few minutes, enabling us to see the land (which afterward proved to be a part of Arikamokeche I. E. of the entrance to Seriorine Straits) when we ran in and anchored. A boat was sent ashore, which communicated with the natives. 2nd Temp. 44° Cold and Foggy, with some rains. There being little or no wind we remained quietly at our anchorage, and were visited by several Canoe-loads of Tchuctches. By hauling the dudge alongside I got a number of Chitons and other shells, also Amphipods &c. August, 1855 Serbarine Straits 281 3rd A rainy day, clear however in the morning. We rose up anchor at an early hour, and came in toward the Straits, but the fog coming up again thicker than ever, the anchor was soon dropped, and we spent another day in this somewhat dreary situation. What we saw of the coast look unpromising enough to those who intended to stay many weeks here, the vegetation being scant or entirely wanting, — a landscape of damp rocks with large patches of snow lying about in every direction — even near the water's edge. 4th We ran into the Straits from after two days light and anchored in Glassnappe Harbor. The ship was almost immediately surrounded by Canoes. The weather being clear though cold I went ashore to have a look at our future place of residence, Com. Rodgers having given me permission to join the party which is to remain here to make observations during the cruise of the ship in the Arctic Ocean. This party is under the command
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282 August 1853- Glasseuppo Harbor, Seniamine Rs. of Mr Brooke, and consists of Messrs Wright Kern and myself, three Adams (Howard, Pelley, and Whelan) three Marines (Bar, Barbier, and Roger) and one Russian Interpreter, a cossack, who though to speak. Pouchkett's could not speak English. A place was marked out for our en- campment, near the native village, on the flat which forms the spit enclosing the harbor. Two boats were left with us, one (the dingui) for my use, in dodging off, the other, a whale boat, for an escape from this place should the ship be blocked up in the ice and unable to get out of the two Arctic Ocean this season. On Sunday the 5th our camp was formed, cons isting of a tent-house made of sails, two tents, and the trunk-house. I slept ashore this night, for the first time in my life in a tent. My cat was stowed in the tent-house, which was the largest of our domiciles and sur- rounded with a breast-work of barrels fill- ed with gravel, for defence in case of an attack by the natives. A 12 lb. field-piece was mounted at the door of this establish- ment, and we were provided with ample 283 Glasseuppo Harbor, Seniamine Rs. store of shell and canister. The weather was warm and pleasant, the sun shining brightly, and the temperature rising to 60° Our spirits rose much under these circumstances, and our anticipations of a pleasant stay here have increased very much since our first view of the coast which was had at so unfavorable a moment. The ground near our camp was covered with a carpet of purple, yellow and pink flowers, with grasses and other plants in great variety; but too few no vegetation worthy of the name of shrubbery which was more than a few inches in height. On the 6th the ship left us, and proceeded on her cruise. The fine weather continued for several days, and we thus became accus- tomed to camp life in this climate, under the most favorable circumstances. The camp was surrounded by the natives from the adjacent village and occasional boatloads from more distant settlements, who generally re- mained inspecting our movements from dawn to sunset, occasionally offering a little "ko-kou" or tobacco. After our late dinner (at 5 o'clock) we usually spent
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August 1855 Seriavine St. Encampment. the remaining hours till sunset (our bed-time) in familiar intercourse with these people, join- ing in their games, or completing our No- tabularies of their language. We traded much with them, tobacco being the almost universal tender on our side, while from them we received specimens of their various implements of war, the chase, fishing, or domestic use; also various articles of provant, as berries, "greens", Salmon, and bears or reindeer's flesh. The reindeer were from their own herds; two bears they killed with arrows upon the mountains of the island on the opposite side of the Straits. I commenced dredging operations almost im- mediately, and this business occupied me for the first week of our stay. The bottom in the Strait was mostly muddy, with a depth of from 10 to 30 fathoms; but a narrow strip of rocky or gravelly bottoms in 3-6 f. extended along the shore in the im- mediate vicinity of our encampment. The exquisite variety of station was thus easily accessible, and I made the requisite collections in a short time, and without tiring more than two or three miles from August 1855 Encampment in Seriavine St. Camp in any dredging excursion. The following is a Synopsis of the Marine Invertebrates Crustacea: a Hyas, two or three species of Hip- ostyle, a Crangon, Argis, Pandalus, and Capnous; 25 species of Amphipoda, an Isotura, Nymphon and two Cumc. Annelides: a Polypee, Nereis, Olave, an Ophelia, Siphonostomum, Thallasema and Sipunculus also a Sternaspis. A parasitic Planaria and two species of Nemertians. About 60 species of shells. Echinodermata: A Cucumaria, Synapta and a Chirodota; an Echinus, Asteracanthus and three species of Ophiodepis, also an Astro- phyton. Of fish few kinds were taken. None ap- peared to be no Cod in the Strait, as we took none after repeated trials with many kinds of bait. Two or three species of Cottus, and a Mallotus were taken in the Seine on the beach. Some small freshwater ponds of the flat near the shellsacks and Camp, were filled with small trout or young Salmon, and we took a abundance of these with the small Seine every mor- ing for several days, thus securing
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August 1853 Encampment in Senavine Sr. 286 a good meal with little trouble. The Delue- hits eat their small fishes raw, and even alive. They themselves caught Salmon of a pound or two in weight, in some distant ponds of large size, by securing them with little slips of whale-bone. On one occasion we had opportunity of seeing the natives secure a whale. Their watch, at the top of a hill, hav- ing descried the spout of a whale in the straits, it was immediately made known, and sailors put off from the different villages, surrounding the ani- mal and preventing his escape. Every opportunity is taken of sticking lances into his flesh, and as to each lance-head, (from which the stuff drops after its insertion in the whale's body) there is attached a line and inflated seal-skin buoy, so that the motion of the animal is soon much impeded: he cannot dive, and becomes ex- hausted. He is then approached and killed, hauled to the beach of the nearest vil- lage, cut up, and divided among the cap- tors. We saw one brought to our beach which was thus completely cut up and August 1853 Encampment at Senavine Sr. 287 distributed in the course of an hour. The females of the village assisted in this oper- ation, and all placed their hunger while at work, with the choice left is a raw state. Every part is used, from the skin to the entrails, for some purpose or other, the greater part of course food for food. The species we saw was the right whale and from its skin we obtained specimens of the Dacivella, and furus with which it was thickly covered. As novelties, away fishes and invertebrates were now becoming scarce, I turned my attention to the Sea-birds, which were here in somewhat numerous both in species and individuals. Gulls were particularly abun- dant. There were three species of these, the common one, a blue-winged species, and a rarer grey gull, frequented the shores of the bay, or sat on its waters: the third and largest, was usually seen feeding on the small fish in the fresh-water ponds. A single Tern visited the harbor, and was shot; and occasionally a blackish, fork-tailed Jayger was seen. A black guillemot, with white in the wing, was very common along the
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288 August 1855- Encampment at Seniarino R. rocky ledges, near which they were usually seen swimming, and occasionally diving for food. These we stick in considerable numbers by setting out decoy made of their stuffed skins, and hiding behind the rocks near by. They are very shy, ficault to flush on the water, diving at the flash; and they soon desert a place where they have been much fired at. The Puffins inhabited a ledge, at a considerable distance from the camp. One one occasion, having shot one of these which fell into the water, I was surprised to see several others collect around it, fiercely pecking at it with their bills; and so intent were they upon this that several charges of shot sent among them at twenty yards distance had not the effect of driving them off. A little auk made its appearance here one day in September, and was seen in abundance on the waters of the bay for several days. They flew with dif- ficulty, and could be closely approached in a boat, and shot with common pistols loaded with small shot. A large species of Cormo- Rant was common, and was easily distin- guished when swimming about among other birds, by the length and slenderness of its neck, 289 August 1855- Encampment at Seniarino R. Four species of ducks were shot; among which was the "King Duck", and one apparently a new species. These were not killed in any num- ers, but they, with the guillenots, occasion- ally afforded us a pleasant change of viands. Three or four species of sandpipers and plovers were shot on the spit; and on one occa- sion, during a heavy eastern gale, a large flock of Phalaropes alighted on the water under the lee of our beach for pro- tection from the storm. These we shot- by tens and twenties at a "crup", and they toffere very good eating. The day of their ap- pearance and capture became an era in our chronology, under the name of "Ships Sunday". The land birds were few in number. A small number of ravens look- ed about the camp and village, picking up offal and croaking at passers-by. Two or three kinds of Sparrows were seen in the meadows and on sars-covered rocks. Mr Brooke shot two or four ptarmigan upon the mountains; and a pair of Cranes of large size were seen by one of our men. We experienced much foggy and rainy weather in the middle and latter part of August
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September 1855. Encampment at Semarine Rs 290 but toward the first of September, it again be- came fine, and I had an opportunity of per- amulating the island without fear of being lost in the fog. The surface is mountainous, half vegetated, and mostly covered with angular fragments of rock, slightly moss-grown. Nearly all the land travelling must be done by climbing over these rocks, often up steps of 15°, which is very fatiguing to one unaccustomed to it. The pursuit of game, however, soon leads one to make light of difficulties, and as the large Arctic Hare was to be found in considerable numbers on the plateaux of the mountain summits, I ascended them nearly every day for a week. I saw as many as five hares in one day; sometimes two or three at a time, and shot several, but owing to the ease with which they escape when wounded by hiding among the rocks, I secured only one. These rocks also shelter- ed the ermine, in the yellowish-brown back and light-yellow breast of its summer-dress. A curious little tail-less rodent C was exceedingly abundant on the sides of the hills, and amused us much by its behavior. Whenever we sat down to rest, some of these little fellows would come out of their hiding places, mount a rock, and commence a quick, shrill, bark, which lasted as long as we remained. Sometimes they would gradual- ly approach the observer, shifting from rock to rock until quite close, and evincing much curiosity. The Arctic fox, in its red summer dress, was frequently seen. On the lower ground a species of Arctomys or Ground Squirrel was very common, and its holes were every where to be seen, frequent- ly with the animal sitting in a listening attitude, at the mouth. One day an excitement was created in our camp by a strange appearance in the harbor, of what appeared to be a suc- cession of milk-white coils, simultaneously rolling, and a strong gowings prevailed for the moment that the First Sea Serpent was approaching. Every available piece in Camp was brought to bear upon this phenomenon, but the firing produced no effect, and we followed it in its retreat in the boat, without success. It was probably a school of small Belugas, or white whales, swimming side by side, and rising together from time to time to breathe. September 1855. Encampment at Semarine Rs 291
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September 1855 Encampment at Saniarine Sr. Seals were very numerous in the harbor, and the natives are usually engaged in taking them, in their "Kyaks" This frail boat, made of seal-skins, with a small aperture at the middle of its deck to admit the body of a man, - I soon learnt to manage, and found very useful in duck-shooting in the water, or in cruising about the straits alone, our heavy dugout being almost cumbersome to a single person desirous of frequent landings. The Viceress arrived in the Straits on the 6th, and anchored in her old berth. We of the shore party met cleverly to go on board until the last moment, remained in the boats more than a week longer; the encampment not being broken up until the 13th. The weather was now bad, foggy, or rainy most of the time. The scurvy had made its appearance on board, and every endeavor was made to procure fresh provisions, pastes sent to collect berries etc. Mr Brooks in the launch made an excursion up the straits and communicated with the highest chief in this vicinity; obtaining some new-deer meat etc. On the 17th the weather being clear, we got underway and left the Straits. September 1855 North Pacific Ocean 18th Passing W. of St. Lawrence I. Wind W. Temp. 47° 19th N. lat. 61°21' E. lon. 187°20' Wind S.E. Temp. 46° We passed St. Matthew I. I got a haul of the dudge in 50 f. mud: product, crabs 9 mussels. 20th N. lat. 59°54' E. lon. 186°05' Wind light E. Temp. 46° 21st " " 58°50 " " 183°56' " Storm W. " 46° 22d " " 57°56' " " 183°48' " " NW " 48° 23rd " " 56°36' " " 187°28' " N. Cloudy " 48° Sunday. We made the Aleutians I's in the evening. 24th N. lat. 52°20' E. lon. 187°52' Wind light N.E. Yr. 63° Passing through the Aleutian group, between Amatcha I and Segnum I. - A strong N. gerrnut. 25th N. lat. 50°48' E. lon. 188°25' An S.E. storm Temp. 49° Have to under close-reefed main topsail & sail. 26th N. lat. 50°21' E. lon. 189°57' Wind S.W. Fair. Temp. 54° 27th " " 50°43' " " 193°14' " S.E. " 54° 28th " " 49°57' " " 198°00' " S.E. Cloudy & Spally. Yr. 53° 29th " " 48°48' " " 203°15' Wind N.W. Thick Temp. 53° We are passing through crowds of large Vol. eels which seems alive and in prod cose. 30th N. lat. 48°27' E. lon. 203°45' Southerly Gale Spally. Yr. 56° Oct. 1. " 47°23' " " 209°37' Wind S.E. Light & wind " 58° 2nd " " 47°21' " " 210°10' " F " Temp. 57° 3rd " " 46°42' " " 212°42' " S.E. " 58° 4th " " 46°40' " " 216°38' " S.E. Pleasant " 59° 5th " " 47°96' " " 219°17' " S.E. " 60°