Journal of a cruise in the US ship, Vincennes, to the North Pacific Ocean, China Sea, Behring Strait, etc. by William Stimpson, 1853-1855
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Transcription
252 May 1853. Simoda. At this port, one of those opened to American commerce by Com. Perry, at the time of the Treaty last year, we remained a fortnight. It is a place of considerable commerce, in a Japanese point of view, but one appearing very insignificant as a sea-port, to American eyes. The town is built on a flat at the bottom of the harbor, and in front of it the water is so shallow that boats can scarce approach at low water. The houses are small, very slightly built of thin boards and strips of bamboo—partly even of paper—and are generally of one story only. Those we saw had all probably been built since the great earthquake of last December, but, with the exception of the temples, they are mostly as good as their predecessors, as the Japanese never build of stone brick or plaster, the frequency of earthquakes rendering this impracticable. One of the largest buildings, painted black, was used as a bazaar, and consisted of booths for goods, and rows of government offices, surrounding a square, open space. This was the favorite resort for our officers when ashore, and many an hundred dollars of our money went for the splendidly ornamented nappings of Japanese manufacture. 253 May 1853. Simoda, Japan. We met here some of the Russian officers of the frigate "Diana" which was destroyed here during the earthquake. A number of her officers and men are now living at Nadi, on the south coast of Sizu, a short 50 miles from here across the land. The "Hancock" visited this port during our stay here, to survey it as well as to communicate with the Russians. The officers at Simoda, three or four in number, visited our ship several times. They are intelligent men, extremely well educated, and would compare with those of any other service. M. Charlovski, one of them with whom I became well acquainted, spoke English with fluency; the others spoke beside their own language only French and German. On the 17th the Craymoode, with a suite of officers and marines in full dress paid an official visit to the Governor; forming a procession at the landing place and marching to music to the bazur, where the Government buildings had been fitted up for their reception. After business matters had been disposed of, they were entertained at large tables set out in the square, the dinner being in Japanese style. As every thing had not been settled to the Craymoode's satisfaction at the first visit, a second of the same character was made to the Governor on