[Journal], 1915-1916

Hovey, Edmund Otis, 1862-1924; American Museum of Natural History; Crocker Land Expedition (1913-1917)

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Scientific expeditions Description and travel Hovey Edmund Otis 1862-1924 Crocker Land Expedition (1913-1917)

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E.D. Hovey Amer. Mus. Nat. Hist.- New York, N.Y. Journal

Journal (continued). 1915. 20 November. Saturday. Clear and calm, or light breeze. Temp. min -14°; 10:30 a., -14°; 9h. -19° Retired at 12:30 but did not get to sleep till between 3:30 + 4 this morning. Don't know what the matter was. Busied myself to-day writing on Martinique, reading, talking with the men &c. Smeared rifle well with vaseline and boxed it. Charlie has trouble nights and he can't stay longer in the gallery, the forecastle men won't stand it! so H.C.P. has fixed up a place for him in the old forecastle or deck, where he can sleep for a time. Poor boy, he sleeps so soundly that nothing can wake him during the night. He brought medicine with him for his trouble, but that is exhausted now. He seems more stupid even than when we started.

January in the course of our walk this evening that Charlie seemed to him to be duller than two months ago. Captain Corner is the busiest man aboard ship except possibly the cook. He keeps at work on his carving and other ivory manufacture all the time, like a woman at her knit- ting or fancy work, trying to di- vert his mind from the condition of affairs on the "Clemtt". He likes substantial reading, but one cannot read or write all the time especially by such poor light as the ship's lamps give. He does not play cards, hence he is cut off from one diversion that the rest of us have. Nor does he seem to care to walk - but he has not the clothing suitable for this kind of amusement and exercise & I cannot get it for him just now

417 Blue fox was caught in of H.C.P.'s traps and dragged around the bay and over the hills for several miles. Taylor of the crew finally overtook the animal and brought it in. Fur makes only a fair skin. - Charlie returned to the fore peak to sleep - sugar cut out of his diet. 21 November. Sunday. Clear, beautiful day with brisk breeze from the ice cap (S.E.) making us feel the cold more keenly than we have for some days. Ice, 19+" thick. Temp. min- 20°; 10a., -15° This has been a quiet day on board ship, spent by most of us in reading or lying in our bunks, with occasional periods of conversation about the little stove in the dining room. Captain Corner marks Sunday by intermitting his ivory work. This morning one of Redtlak's dogs got a foot caught in one of Captain Pickels's fox traps. Word of the

event was brought to the ship before break- fast and H.C.P. went out to inves- tigate the matter. He did not try to free the dog, through fear of get- ting bitten. This afternoon Rudtlok and Alakutkak tied the dog's mouth so that it could not bite and then took its foot out of the trap. No great damage done, even to the dog - This evening walked out alone, Jan- quary having turned in. Went across bay nearly to snowdrift glacier and back - 4 mi. Magnificent night, moon full tomorrow. Wind keen but not bad in northern half of bay, calm in southern half. Wind on ice cap apparently from south and blowing a cloud of icy snow particles over the transverse mountain crests. It must be awfully biting up there - Pleasant chat with Captain Comer this evening after I came back. Chief is first one to get lonely - He

419 has spent a good deal of time in the igloo. Says he can't find any yet. Peter says that the South Greenland lice are awfully vo- racious but that those in this region are "real friendly". I wonder how this can be! 22 November. Monday. Clear + fine, calm or practically so all day, Temp. min.-17°; 10 a.-15°. Peter and Paritscha came up from Uuna- nak about noon, bringing some clothing for the crew and some other things. Paritscha is a fine, intelligent man, 60 or more years old but vigorous and still desirous of going out with expeditions. His hair is very thin on top of his head, in fact he is almost bald. Quite a rare thing among the Estimos. Peter is much concerned over Mac Nil- lais plans for a year or more in Ellesmer Land and (or) a journey across country to the Mackenzie River coming out through the states with the Estimos or

420 possibly sending the Eskimos back from the mouth of the Mackenzie direct. Peter does not want Mac to take Sammik, Keh-ko-tah P's son and Jimmie Panikpai's sons because the former might be a troublesome factor in the States and the latter is need- ed by his father. In fact, Sammik also is needed by his mother, both he and Jimmie having been employed almost continuously at Etah for the past two years. Peter fears the effect upon them of a visit to the States, such as theirs would be and wonders how they would get back safely to their homes. He thinks that they would be spoiled for Eskimo life, in the same way possibly that Mere is. If Mac stays behind for a fourth year in this region and goes to Ellesmere Land with two families with the idea of coming out in 1917 and return- ing to New York via Denmark, Peter fears that something may happen to

detain him (Mac) in Ellesmere Land or some where else, or to prevent his crossing Smith Sound on the ice and getting down to Umanak in season for the Danish boat. If that should occur, Peter would feel obliged for hu- manity's sake to use the Rasmussen ship in a search for Mac, and he and Ras- mussen have not the capital to warrant such a search. Peter wanted to know who would guarantee the expenditure entailed by using the ship that way. Would the Museum or the Crocker Land Committee do so? I told him that I could not give him any such guarantee and that he would have to look to Mac himself for any re- imbursement or protection. Has Mac Millan the personal resources to ren- der his guarantee reliable? I told Peter that I did not know whether he had they were or not. Ekblaw and Mere and Ahuqso-

422 dablaho and his wife came in about 7 p.m. from Cape York, bringing seal and walrus meat with them. They were welcomed with joy, for we all wish some fresh meat to eat. Conditions of Cape York were not favorable for walrus polar bear hunting and besides the old man wanted to come north, hence Ekblaw and Mene did not stay at Cape York as long as they expected to when they left the ship. Langray and I walked out nearly to the little island on the south side of the bay and back - a seven mile trip. The evening was calm and brilliant, perfect for a walk except that my kooltah was too warm for the weather of -17° and no wind. I wore the gar- ment, because Peter gave it to me and he was here, but I was in full perspiration long before we reached the ship on our return from our walk.

423 23 November. Tuesday. Fine, calm morning but overcast after noon with rising S. wind and a marked rise in temperature. Twilight is getting so dim that it is hard to read the thermometer at noon. Bright moonlit evening but windy and the men think it unwise to start back to Umanak as they were plan- ing to do. Temp. min.-17°; 9a.-17°; 3p.+18° As a result of several conferences during the day with Ekblaw, Corner, Jarquary, Peter and Mene, in groups, preliminary arrangements for the stay of Ekblaw and Corner at Umanak have been made. Ekblaw and Corner, and Hunt if he stays down here, are to have the use of Hendrik Ohlser's house and may pay him for it. [Ekblaw thinks that $50 will more than cover this item.] They may make their

424 our selection of Eskimos for helpers and servants. Peter is quite agreeable to their having Mene and Egingwah and his wife. Such supplies as are obtained from Peters store are to be bought and paid for or replaced. Peter was anxious that we take his own house and his servants and employe's, but he refused to accept any payment for the accommoda- tion and we declined his offer with thanks, since we do not wish to be under any unnecessary obligation to him and we feel that it is far better for Ekblaw and Come to be wholly independent of him and to manage their own af- fairs without being obliged or feeling under obligation to con- sult him [illegible] or his conveni- once with reference to their use of their assistants.

For a compensation equivalent to reloading tools, $100 (rifle and ammunition, tobacco, supplies and other things to make up the sum) Me- ne agrees to place his services and his dogs wholly at the disposal of Ekblow and Corner from the present time to next September or the departure of the relief ship. I have authorized othery Ekblow to make a similar ar- angement with Egieqwah and Imaho (his wife) or whenever he gets to take care of the house and help in other ways. Mere's knowl- edge of English renders him the best assistant that Corner could possibly have. Furthermore he is young and strong and is a good hunter and dog driver. Ekblow thinks that $300 will cover their necessary expenses at Unanats but Corner thinks that something should be added for emergencies and for

426 possible purchase of narwhal and other specimens - $200 was suggested. 24 November - Wednesday - Heavy wind came up from the south early last evening and men did not think it wise to start for Umanak - Today has been very thick with air full of snow driven before the strong gale which has continued all day - Temp. 9 a., +25°; 3 p. +30°. Snow soft and melting on deck. Ekblan submitted following esti- mate of expenses at Umanak for him self, Comer and possibly Hunt to September, 1916 - [See Ek's letter of 23 XI] House rent 50 Supplies to be purchased 50 Mere's services 100 Egingwa & Iruaho's services 100 300 Emergencies and specimens from eskimos not to exceed 300 $600 Approved by me, subject to Mac's approval.

Also 20 small cans dog biscuit for Mene 1916-17 20 ditto '' Egingual 1916-17 20 ditto for himself for spring with 1916. Approved by me 4.XII.15. The limit for emergencies and speci- mens was raised at my suggestion. Eklow said that he would keep ex- peditures down as low as possible consistent with effective work. There is said to be another meteorite or two up here and perhaps we can get it. Had a long interesting talk with Peter regarding the work of the expedi- tion and arrangements for our trip southward. He proposes to take Ping- asut, whose real name is Ajago, Harri- gan (= Inuktitupaluk) and Jatiak as far as Uppernivik, and Pingasut the whole distance that he (Peter) goes. Koludeira is to accompany us three marches out from Cape York or two beyond Cape Melville. Sigler and Bozeman are to go as far as Cape Melville. These supporting parties are taken for the purpose of transporting supplies.

428 I gave Peter an order to deliver to Mae Millan the latter's personal property and certain boxes from the expedi- tion stores at Unanark. This is a copy of a list sent to her in a letter which Peter is carrying from me to Mae. Loaned Mere my (Effed) H.C.P. rifle. 25 November. Thursday. Overcast and thick. Some fog at times. Wind still from S or S.E., but not so strong Temp. - min +12°; 9a. +25°; 2p. +25° About eleven o'clock Ahungodablaho & his wife started for Cape York and about a half-hour later Panitcha and Mere got away for Unanark. About noon Peter left, carrying Captain Pickles and me on his kamatik. H.C.P. jumped off about a mile from the ship but I rode as far as Soapstone Valley. My first sledge ride, and it was a good taste though I can readily understand that

429 thirty or forty or more miles of it at a stretch night, fatiguing and cold work. Peter started out with 12 dogs, being his regular team of ten plus two of Pudtlak's. One of the latter held back so much that Peter soon cut his trace and let him return, the other, a female, trot- ted right along with the team and pulled her share of the load. The dogs traveled along at a good gait side by side except for the two outer dogs. These two are the most in- telligent of the lot. They went well out- side the others and were used in guid- ing the team. Peter would call out a certain word and the right leader would crowd in against the team turning it to the left. Another command would similarly bring in the left leader and turn the team to the left, right. The whip was used sparingly to enforce con-

430 mands or keep individual dogs up to their work. The leaders are sup- posed to watch the trail and guide the team to avoid obstacles. The right leader was particularly good. I noticed his coming in in order to keep his trace from catching on lumps of ice, a green or ugly dog well not do that. Thanksgiving Day and we wonder what they are doing at home. We hard- ly dare hope that the "Cape York" got out in time to catch the Danish steamer and report to Rasmussen and thence to America that she saw us in North Star Bay. There is not much incentive to boisterous Thanksgiving here, but I am glad that I am alive and well and that things are as well with us as they are, with prospects good for some of us to go out this winter. I shall be still more thankful when we actually start in good shape. Last Thanksgiving Day E. R. H. was still with me.

431 Dinner menu this afternoon: Bean and turnip soup, thickened with hardtack. Baked seal meat. Tea. Corned beef. Dehydro potatoes. Bread and butter and molasses. To which I added for the first table: Canned Salmon (from Bellman's box). Peanut bar and chocolates (Expedition). And further for our table: A jar of peas (Sprigg) & Grape juice (exp.) My last La Venga disappeared in smoke- This evening the wind seems to come from the southwest and is very heavy. The weather too is very thick and we are wondering how the travelers are getting on. Captain Comer was going to U- marrask with Peter, but the weather had been so bad and was still so threatening this morning that the plan was given up on account of the loads on the sledges. Good thing that he did not go. H.C.P. served chocolate this evening.

432 Midnight. The moon is visible and is giving considerable light, but the air is full of flying snow particles and the wind seems to have shifted on the ice cap to the northeast. The foen, which Peter says it was, is probably over and we are about to have a con- siderable drop in temperature. Peter says that two or three of these foen (or fön) winds and attendant rises in temperature come every winter - late in November, January and March. He calls them southeasterly winds. At the ship's position we cannot surely determine the direction of the wind. 26 November. Friday. Somewhat overcast in the morn- ing, clearing after noon. Wind died down after midnight and

433 was light and variable this morning. West to southeast. Stronger at 6 p.m. S.E. Temp. Min +20°; 9a. 22°; noon+19°; 3p.+17° January and I took a six mile walk in the dim twilight across the bay to the snowdrift glacier and to the igloo. Inefliate was scraping the blubber off the skin of the seal which Nene brought back from Cape York. She used a knife shaped much like one of our chopping knives . The wo- men are very skillful in the use of these knives for many purposes about the igloo and in the fashioning of clothing. She kept the seal skin taut enough to be flat by resting the board upon which she was working, and over which the seal- skin was drawn, against her left leg. She had taken off her kermi to keep it from getting greasy, but her own skin showed the effect of the meagre supply of water. We arranged with her to dry a supply of grass for us to use in

434 our Kamicks on our southward trip, and on our return to the ship we ar- ranged with Alakutsiak to collect the grass from the hillside. Breakfast- scoured oatmeal+ good beans. coffee, bread and butter, Dinner- roast beef stew, hard tack bread, butter, tea. 27 November. Saturday- Clear and fine till mid afternoon then rather thick with lowlying haze. Temp. min +17o; 9a.+17o; noon+13o; 4h. +5o 9 h.m. Haze Thick in bay, covering our gigging with rime . Overhead stars visible. Out to [illegible] outer point next beyond valley, with Ekblaw, a six mile walk, directly after noon. Went ashore on point under high overhanging bluff. Saw a fox's den and found the bird-grass and

bird-line on the rock ledges and surface, and glaucous gulls also the grass nests of murres on ledges a- bore our heads. These cliffs are said to be and indeed must be a wonderful sight in the summer on account of the countless birds that frequent them. 9:30 p. Temp. 0°. The haze has almost dis- appeared from the bay and the whole sky is clear and brilliant, except that a north wind seems to be blowing over the ice- caps driving icy snow particles before it. Breakfast. Cornmeal mush, beans, brown bread, butter, molasses, good coffee Dinner. Pea soup, overdone seal meat, corn- ed beef, dehydro potatoes, bread (better), butter, molasses, tea. Great arguing goes on in the cabin in some of the intervals of card playing. The question now before the house is as follows: If a boat be provided with an outboard, say on the starboard side, on which a man sits and pulls

436 on an oar the rowlock of which is like- wise on the starboard side, which way will the bow of the boat turn, to port or to starboard. The boat is of course supposed to be in balance. Allen is vigourously leading this debate and claims that the boat will turn to starboard, most of the rest of us, in- cluding myself, claim that she will turn to port. H.E.P. says that she will not turn in either direction, the other seem not to care. Allen Hovey & Co The debate has grown so heated that Allen, backed up by a model which he has just whittled out and tried in our fire hole in the ice, has some ten dollars bets up that he is cor- rect.

437 28 November. Sunday. Clear and moonlit till about 11 a.m., then overcast. Noon twilight getting very weak. Temp. min. -5°; 9a. -5°; 2p. +3°. Ice 22¼" Calm with an occasional light breeze from the head of the fjord. Ekblaw, Tanquary and I started out shortly before noon for a walk westward along the north shore of the bay. Tanquary turned back about one and three-quarters miles from the ship, but Ekblaw and I continued as far as the prominent point 3+ miles away. There we found the temperature at 1p., m. to be -6½°. At the ship on our re- turn an hour later it was +3°, a dif- frence of 9½ degrees. Interesting, be- cause we at the ship have been saying for a long time that it seemed ten degrees colder in the outer bay than at the "Chretells" berth. Breakfast. Fried bacon, baked beans, bread, butter, coffee, molasses.

438 Dinner. Roast beef, dehydrato potatoes, bread; butter, tea, prune duff with molas- ses sauce. On these anniversaries of the last days which E. L. H. spent on earth, my mind is so filled with thoughts of her and her suffering and with grief over my irre- arable loss that I am poor company for any one. It is terrible to be in this deso- late region so far from home and friends in this period of loneliness and special sadness. Yesterday was Clara's birthday. She is much on my mind and I am anxious about her and her condition, about my mother and her life and welfare, about Horace and his school work. Helen does not worry me so much because she has a good position and is comfortable. Do our friends know by this time that we were safe at North Star Bay 12 Sept.?

29 November. Monday. Clear, cloudless, calm Temp. min -6°; 9a.-6°; 6p.-10°. Bar 30.36 rising Seven mile walk on bay with Ian- Quary, between 11:40 and 2:10. Twilight so dim now that the brightest northern stars are visible at noon, noted Arcturus for me. Surface of bay ice ideal for walk- ing in almost any direction. Last quarter of moon to-day. Conditions ex- cellent for sledging. Breakfast: Oatmeal (scorched), baked beans, bread (poor), butter, molasses, coffee (fair). Dinner: Pea soup, corned beef (too hard to eat), bread, butter, tea, molasses. The mate says that H.C.P. charged the crew $2 for a pair of karrits, $4 for seal- skin pants, $.75 for mittens. Peter sold these to the captain for the following prices karrits 5 kr., pants 10 kr., mittens 1.45 krone. When he learned the prices which the crew had to pay,

440 he was terribly distressed, for, as he told me, he had supplied them at what they had cost him. He could not under- stand the mental and moral attitude of a man who, like the captain, would take advantage of men dependent on him through no fault of their own amid hardships brought onto them. Peter felt so badly about this, especially on account of his having any connection whatever with the transactions, that he said when he went away last Thursday that he was going to send some tobacco over as a gift to the crew. He refused to sell any of his scanty stock to H.C.P., because the latter would use it in trade with the Es- kimos. In making payment for the clothing, H.C.P. used kerosene oil, charg- ing Peter $10 for a barrel of it. By En- glish and American laws, the cap- tain of a vessel is allowed to charge an advance of only 5% on the cost.

of articles furnished from the "slop-chest"; hence I do not perceive how he justifies himself either legally or morally for charg- ing the crew a profit of from 50% (karrites) to 92% (mitters) on this skin clothing. Furthermore the oil belongs to the ship and cost not more than £6.80 per barrel (+the barrel) at Sydney,- and I think that it cost less than that. Declined invitation to play cards this evening. These anniversary days I feel averse to that kind of occupation with attendant light conversation. 30 November. Tuesday. Clear morning, partly overcast, then over- cast afternoon. Moderate southeasterly wind following the strong breeze of the latter part of the night and early morning. Temp. min -10°; 9a. +8½° ; 2m.+12° a sad day through recollections of Tues- day a year ago.

442 We wanted some boiled seal meat for dinner to-day but the cook said that he could not prepare any, because he had only one frost and needed that for the soup. This is an item of the inexusa- bly poor outfit of this ship which brings to mind an incident stark of our cross- ing of Melville Bay. Becoming exasper- ated over the dirty condition of the tea pot, I asked Charlie one day after din- er why he didn't wash it. He replied that he couldn't, without marring it leak. It transpired then that the enamel pot had a hole in it at the base of the spout and that the hole had been stopped with a wad of hard soap. Some weeks later the tea pot went all to the bad, and since then we have had tea at dinner made in the coffee pot of the morning. Neither beverage is improved by such use of the pot.

443 Alakutziak brought in a kamatik load of grass to-day for Inetliak to dry for our kanites. He was pleased at re- ceiving a half plug of tobacco for the ser- vice. Inetliak's pronunciation of the boy's name sounds more like Al-a- ko-ti-ak, with k guttural like the Ger- man ch, spoken softly and slurringly. Breakfast. Oatmeal, baked beans, bread, butter, molasses, coffee. Dinner. Vermicelli soup, hard tack, corned beef, seal meat, dehydrated potatoes, brad, butter, Tea, molasses. We added a can of our own peaches. The seal was boiled after all and though cooked too much was better than the baked stuff. At midnight the wind is rather heavy from the southeast. Makes an awful decrease in the comfort of the ship- / December. Wednesday. Dark, dismal day. Sky cloudy

444 and heavily overcast. Air filled with icy snow particles from the ice cap & driven out through the fjord by a south- easterly gale which began to rage at about 11 o'clock last night. Temp. min +11°; 9a, +11°; noon+9° Just a year at 12:55p.m. that E.L.H. passed away Breakfast, same as yesterday. Dinner, pea soup, corned beef, no veal, other things same as yesterday. Captain Pickels said to me to-day, that he intended to put all my coal a- shore here together with what kerosene Peter wished to buy next spring while the ice was still good, then, when con- ditions became favorable, shift his bal- last, beach the vessel as well as he could at high tide, take off her propeller, board up the opening where the pro- peller works and sail straight for home without going to North Star Bay at all. Nothing about Etah was mentioned

in this conversation, because I did not wish to discuss his plans fully yet. Too early for that and there is too much time left before my departure in which to change his mind. The foregoing re- mark was elicited by my saying that I wanted him to take all my coal to North Star Bay on his way out and that Peter would help him unload it there. The sub officers and crew of the "Chu- ett" are getting very anxious over the prospects of their being reduced to very short rations or almost none at all before the winter is over, and tings looks as if there would be very serious trouble between them and the captain before even my party gets away from the vessel. If the insurance company knew of the disabled condition of the ship, or account of its broken crank shaft

446 broken steering gear, cracked plank and broken bob stay, would not it (the company) make some effort to have relief sent to her? The Grenfell Assoc. Am. would, it seems to me, be desirous to send re- lief in the shape of supplies for the crew and repairs for the broken parts. The saddest day of the year - 2 December. Thursday. Thickly overcast. Light snow falling at intervals. Wind moderate to light, S.E. Light very dull at mid day. Temp. min +9°; 9 a.m. +27°; noon +25° Another dismal day, though we are glad that the gale moderated greatly dur- ing the night. On board all day. Ekblaw asked me this morning whether I would permit him to give Petra a written report on ice conditions encountered in / Robeson Channel and elsewhere on his sledge trip of last spring. I told that I

447 world, since it would be in the nature of geographical news that should be published without delay. He said that Peter had asked for it and would doubtless translate it into Danish. This evening Ekblaw read the report to me and I approved of it, after including in it a reference to the three institutions sup- porting the C.L. Expedition. Breakfast. Same as yesterday. Dinner. Roast beef stew, boiled seal (good), bread, butter, hard tack, tea, molasses. Grape juice. 3. December. Friday. Overcast, but not as thickly as yesterday 1/2 m. and at noon some stars were visible. Even one south of the zenith could be seen. Moderate wind from west during day and toward east in evening. About six inches of snow lay on the ice. Temp. min +11 1/2 o; 9 a.m., +11 1/2 o; 1:30 p., +15 o Jueliak came over this morning at about eleven o'clock with Merten in her

448 hood. The child came willingly to me and sat nicely in my lap. She would be an attractive baby, if she were clean, for she bright and cheerful and well behaved. She was much pleased when I gave her a stick of peanut candy but she was not greedy about it. She even gave it to Allen, when he put out his hand for it, but she was glad to get it back with its waxed paper cover loosened. Then she proceeded to eat it decorously. She likes to ride in her mother's hood and does not like to stay long in the cabin. She is three years old, according to the mother, but seems younger. Eskimos do not reckon time exactly. Jants and I enjoyed our walk across the bay after our three days of restriction to the ship, but four miles in the new snow gave us as much exercise as six on hard snow and ice would have given. The crew banked some of the new

snow up around the ship, but much more ought to be filed up there. Went to bed at 12:30 last night but could not get to sleep till after 4 this morning. Am renewing the habits of a year ago, I fear. Breakfast this morning lacked the usual beans or any substitute for them, The cook having burned the mess beyond any usefulness as food. We brought out some Sprigg bologna and bacon. Dinner. Rice Turnip and onion soup, corn- ed beef, fried salt cod fish with salt pork, &c. 4 December. Saturday. Calm. Overcast morning, clearing about 1:30 p.m. and very clear latter part of afternoon and evening. Temp. min +13 1/2°; 9 a.,+13 1/2°; 5:30p. 0°, Bar. 30.64". Sad anniversary of the day when E.L.H. was laid away. January and I walked out to the big valley and back, - 4 miles. Footing soft and walking is hard exercise. Wore my rubber shoes over three pairs of thick.

450 woolen socks. Outside hair froze to the (bottoms of the rubbers), but my feet were not cold. This has happened once before. Rubbers are cold things for comfort. We are anxiously awaiting the arrival of Mac Millan, Green and Hunt. We thought that they might come in to-day and we fear that they have been delayed by bad weather. Mac wrote that he would arrive 12-25 November, but we were positive that he could not accom- plish the journey so soon and in our own minds added ten days to his limit. Breakfast, oatmeal, beans etc as before We welcomed the return of the beans! Dinner, pea soup, hard corned beef etc. Plus a bottle of our grape juice. Captain Pickels gave me a sketch- map of Melville Bay showing our course, both true and magnetic. I have fastened this in my notebook and have made out a table of magn. courses for max. days march.

451 5 December, Sunday. Clear night. Overcast day, but thinly so at midday. Temp.min -4°;9a.m.0°;2p.+4° Calm or very light air stirring. Ice 24½" Walked across head of bay and to snow-drift glacier with January. 4±mi. Temp. at S.E.¼ bay -14°C (+7°F), off the gla- cier -13°C (+8½°F), at ship +4°. Breakfast, fried bacon, beans tc as usual Dinner, roast beef, dehydro potatoes, plum duff tc as usual. The cook put some corned beef into the roast beef stew. Peter told me that my name a- mong the Eskimos was Naligoksuah, meaning the big master. At first they called me Doctoruak, but they knew only medical doctors up here and they (or he?) changed the term to avoid confusion of ideas. At E- tah they often spoke of me as Naligok- paluak or the little master, though I do not know why they should have called him little.

Wrote to Captain Comer and handed him the letter calling officially on him to submit a report giving his 1. His observations and criticisms upon the "George B. Cluett", her outfit and her management. 2. His opinion regarding her completing the charter party next summer. 3. His recommendations as to the course which the Museum should take next year for the relief of the Crocker Land party. The water question on board the "Clu- ett" is serious and unsatisfactory. The ice for melting is brought on Puddlar's kamatik by crew power from a small grounded iceberg one-third mile from the ship. This is not so bad now in the comparatively mild weather which has been and is now prevailing, but it will be another matter with the temperature from -30° to -50° whether

the wind blow or not. On board the only place provided for melting is a boiler on the cooking range in the forepeak. This boiler is not large e- to provide ough for the quantity of water required for the proper daily needs of the sixteen men now on board and it is supp- plemented nearly every day by ice melt- ed in the cabin in makeshift recep- tacles fashioned from the gasoline 5-gallon cans brought down from Etah. Incidentally, these cans were being thrown overboard as fast as their contents were one day soon after we left North Star Bay emptied into the vessel's tanks and were saved only after I had protested against their waste. They have been used for many purposes since, the most important of which is this last, for melting ice. The melting is done partly on the cabin stove, but most- ly over one of the primus stoves for- tunately furnished me by Peter.

454 The range boiler is provided with a cover but I fear that that is not always in place to keep out the dust of the fore- castle, for the water sometimes is too dirty for human drinking. Still, some of the dirt may come from the ice itself, which is piled on the fore hatch as it is brought from the berg and there certainly is some soot depos- it ed or from the smoke of the galley fire. We should be all right for the cabin supply, if only we had a 10 or 20 gallon tank with a faucet at the bottom. Such a tank and a Primus rigged up in the dining room stove would keep us well supplied with good water, but we have no tank! We are lucky to have the gasoline cans, for there seems to be nothing else in which to melt ice aft.

455 6 December. Monday. Clear, cloudless, calm. New moon. Temp. min -4°; 9 a. +10°; noon+2°; 3:30 p. -2° Beautiful on the bay today and I enjoyed 6-mi. walk with Sanquary. We went nearly to the little island in south side of bay. The light at mid- day was about as bright as it is a half hour after sunset on a clear winter evening at home when snow covers the ground. There was considerable orange here along the southwestern horizon and this color had not disappeared entirely at 3:30 p.m. Resumed our hour of poker for matches after dinner this evening, much to the delight of the mate. Midnight - Overcast and seems to threaten snow. The Etah party has not come in yet and we fear that Kardah's ill- ess may have delayed their start. Dinner today was varied by the addition of boiled seal (the last that we have, I am sorry to say) and

456 string beans. To this we added for our Table a can of Expedition peaches. 7 December. Tuesday. Overcast but not thick. Some stars visible Calm. Temp. min -2°; 9a., +8°; 2h. +7° Six miles with Eckblaw, toward the S.W. We talked much concerning Expedition matters. He thinks that, while full justice toward Mac Millan should be shown, tho organizing institutions have the right and in fact ought to know all the facts connected with the manage- ment of the enterprise which account for its failures as well as its successes. He stands willing to say all that is on his mind fully and frankly before the authorities and in Mac Millan's pre- sence. At 6:30 this evening some one on deck called out "Karratites. Karra- tites" A rush was made to learn the

457 extent of the news. The arrivals proved not to be from Etah, but from Cape York. Egingwah and Erik are on their way to Unermak, accompanied by their wives. Ahlel[illegible]ungwa brought the kamiks which she made for January and me. The sewing is excellent and the tops are good seal leather; but the soles are not good, being made from the salted hide of the smaller of the two hooded seals that we got in Melville Bay. The Eski- mos could not extract the salt from the skin. The party left Cape York at about 5 o'clock this morning. They brought part of the carcass of a young polar bear for our tables. The women as well as the men are sleeping on the roof of the cabin tonight, they found the igloo on shore here too lousy on their last visit. [illegible] The cracks in the cabin stove is so large now that one can see the

458 incandescent coal through it. It looks as if a piece of the iron might drop away before very long. I wonder whether it will last another month, and what will be done for fire in the cabin after this stove goes to pieces. And there are at least five months more of hard winter ahead of us, fully seven months before the ice is at all likely to go out of the bay, eight or nine months before the vessel can reach Temper- ate latitudes where a fire is not need- ed all the time. Although H.C.P. knew that this stove was cracked he would not buy it as a precaun- timary measure the stove that I bought up from Sydney, when I offered it to him tentatively on the northward voyage! What a mean! 8 December. Wednesday. Clear, calm night. Overcast this mom

ing and fell about 2 p.m., when the sky cleared and was beautiful. Burnt orange hue in the S.W. Clear this evening. Calm, or light, variable winds. Temp. min. +4°; 9 a.+8°; 2 p.+8° Five miles with January at midday. Went toward the southwest. Light dim, but wonderfully improved from about 1 p.m. when the clouds began to thin out. Eginquah and Evik took some of our heavy supplies (barrel of flour, four kegs of molasses, butter &c.) out along the north shore today on their tour of inspection. They got no farther than Cape Dudley Digges, where they encountered a broad lead and turned back after caching the stuff on shore to await an opportunity enabling us to send it on to Umenak. It being imprac- ticable to go to Umenak now, the Cape York party proposes to return to their homes tomorrow. Mate Davis tells me that he un-

derstands the "Cluett's" charter to call for the vessel's provisioning the whole party for the whole homeward voyage, including detentions, just as Captain Comer and I do, not otherwise, as Captain Pickels claims. MacDougall seems to be a sick man and H.C.P. is much worried lest his disease be intestinal tuberculosis & viable to terminate mortally before the "Cluett" can get home. The man's teeth are in very bad shape and are poisoning his system. He has Terrible headaches and when phenacetin relieves these the pain is localized in his bowels. From what Captain Pickels has said to Captain Comer and remarks that Ex- blaw has overheard, it seems evident that Captain Pickels hopes to make trouble between Mac Millan and me and profit by it. Perhaps H.C.P. has overheard part of what

461 has been said among the members of my party regarding the local management of the expedition's affairs and thinks that there is dissension there of which he can take advantage. He little knows the solidar- ity that exists among us, at any rate as for as outsiders are concerned, and fore-armed is fore-armed". There will be no division between Mac and me that will help H.C.P. in any way, if I can avoid it, though I should of course show and exercise my authority if necessary. 9 December. Thursday. Clear and calm, with an occasional puff of light wind from the land. Temp. min -2°; 9a.,-2°; 2h.-2° Janquary and I took our usual walk together at mid day. This time out along the north shore, a half mile or more beyond the big valley - about five miles for the round trip. Snow has settled considerably,

so that the walking is good. There is a regu- lar highway of kamatik tracks and foot prints in this direction which is more pronounced indeed than the one lead- ing to the southwest. Norman and Eric went out on the latter's kamatik to the lead, looking for seals. They saw none, but Norman reports much open wa- ter. Tide exceptionally high. The Cape York party did not leave to-day. They seem to think that they may be able to get to Urenak if they wait a day or two here. Hard on our scanty supplies! We met McDougall on the ice near the ship. He's very cheerful. Says that he feels better today though he feels some pain in his stomach (which he localized by placing his hand over his heart). The dining room chairs are so rickety and wobbly now that they

scarcely support us. The grass in one of my Karrites froze today forming a lump of snow under my foot. My foot was not cold. Apparently, the grass was not dry to begin with and the perspiration from my foot furnished ad- ditional moisture. Last evening I bought a pair of sealskin mittens with rabbit-skin inner mittens from H.C.P. for 40 cents. He had gotten them from Barline, who made them. The great bluff beyond the valley was weird and impressive today in the dim light. It looked very bold and forbidding with its blue-streaked and dark red face, relieved only by the snow on its projecting ledges and the great white blotches from the bird line on its anyface- wind Moderate 3.s.s. Spring rips about 6 p.m. which soughs over the cliffs rather heavily . Increasing at 8 o'clock. One of the Cape York dogs gave birth

464 4 to a litter of pups on the ice beside the 9 Roasted polar bear meat ship this evening. at dinner - excellent. This evening I have been going thro' my log book studying our daily runs and I make out that if we had had a competent engineer, plenty of fuel and supplies for the engine and en- ergry on the part of the captain to push the machinery for all it was worth as he should have done, the "Chett" would have reached Uper- vivik Disko by the night of 30 July or morning of 31 July; Upernivik on 2 August; Devils Thumb on 3 August; Cape York on 13 August; North Star Bay on 14 August; Etah on 16 August. Allowing 9 days for delays by ice, addi- tional to what I have already allowed, Etah would have been reached by 25 August. We could not have been detained there more than a few days, say one week. We should

469 or before have gotten away from there on 1 or 2 September and have crossed Melville or gone down west side of Baffin Bay Bay without trouble and have reach- ed Sydney by 1 October, with the object of our voyage well accomplished. The foregoing statement is conservative, I think, since it takes into account the actual winds and weather that we encountered, and (see p. 474). . The daily runs as taken from my log and given me originally by Captain Pickets were as follows: Date. Miles run. Remarks. 19 VII Left Sydney 6 p.m. 20 135 Fair wind 21 80(?) Calm. Ran engine last night 22 Light winds 23 Calm 24 37 Light fair wind 25 132 Fair wind. Arr. Battle Harbor 6 p.m. Sted engine

466 Date. Miles run. Remarks, been in good condition & properly used, we should arr. B.H. by morning of 23 July and left that noon, thereby saving fully 3½ days. In B.H. repairing engine. Left at 4 p.m. 26 VII 0 Old have gained by use of engine - 4 hrs. Do. 7 hrs 27 98 28 82 29 145 30 181 31 74 Head wind part of day ? Might have gained 10 hrs by use of engine 1 VIII 26 Head wind, but 12 hrs might perhaps have been gain 2 210 3 134 4 78 (5) (0) arr Disko (Godhavn at 1:30 a.m. by using

467 Date. Miles run. Remarks. VIII 0 engine, boat- V VIII 0 In Disko; flat calm. Had engine been all right we should have stayed there but 1/2 day, thus gain- ing 1 day 12 hrs. 7 18 Shld have gained in calm 20 " 8 17 " " " " " 20 " 9 90 " " " 6" ? 10 122 arr. Upernivik 7h.m. in strong wind. 11 0 In Upernivik, but weather was calm and we shld. have left under power at noon, gaining 18 hrs. and proceeding to Devil's Thumb. 12 25 Had sailed W.N.W. to near edge of pack. 13 29 Wind N.W. Foggy. 14 8 Wind light. Fog thick.

468 Date. Miles run. Remarks 15 VIII 31 Wind W.N.W. brisk, clear after 3 a.m. 16 28 Off Devil's Thumb - Wind light, fair. 17 42 -- Pass ice all about. Began drift across Mel- vilie Bay. Calm day. 18 13 N.W. wind followed by calm 19 { 19 Calm weather, Sur- 20 rounded by ice. Ch 21 have made progress 22 probably with good engin 23 14 Wind N.W., light. 24 9 Wind S.E., " 25 3 Calm 26 0 ? Lost bbl. gasoline put into tank. Calm 27 28 Off Cape Melville calm. (w) There midnight last night under gas. 28 8 E. wind very light. 29 6 " " //

Total from Devil's Thumb to Cape York 232 mi 469 Date. Miles run. Remarks. 30 VIII 8 Light easterly wind. 31 7 Continue to drift with 1 IX 7 the ice. Some lanes o- pen, but can't or do not use them 2 4 Always calm 3 10 In Cape York Bay 4 16 Passed Cape York 5 0 Calm 6 17 Light E. wind 7 2 (rest) Calm. Much open water. 8 - 3 (loss) N.W. wind, strong. Moved to pan in lee of pounded berg- 9 6 wind More N.W. moved to berg. 10 5x1 Light wind + calm 11 =5 12 Arr. off Cape Athol at about 6 a.m. Met P. Frenchman here at 9:30 a.m. & left in "Ingerlis" for Etah at 3:30. Ellett worked way into North Star Bay

470 Date. Miles run. Remarks. 12-19 1X "Cleutt" in North Star Bay Light winds + calm to after. oon of 16th. I returned in late afternoon of 17th with 4 C.L. men in S.E. gale. 19. 1X 8:30 a.m. Left North Star Bay. Good S.E. wind. 20 } 38 At 4:30 p.m. just past Conical Rock 21 -1 (loss) Calm. Some lanes 22 9 Calm. Many lanes At 10 p.m. moored to harbor, too dark to go on. Had seen open water off Cape York and could feel encouraging swell. About midnight S.E. gale struck ship, tore her loose from harbor and finally drove her back along coast.

471 Date. Miles run. Remarks. 23 IX - 20±(ln) At 10 a.m. + rounded Parker Snow Point and anchored in lee of the cliff. Late in after- noon lengthened chain and lay alongside the bluff, to which we moored the vessel. 24 IX - 3 Sailed to head of Par-ker Snow Bay and anchored. 25 0 At anchor in P.S.B. 26 0 Do. 27 0 Attempted to go out + examine ice. Crank shaft broke after en- gine had run 10 min:. Returned to anchorage - 28 0 East wind after 3 h.m., too late to try even for North Star Bay today

472 Date. Run. Remarks. 29 IX 0 E. wind. Under way at 9 o'ce a.m., but re- turned to anchorage by 9:30, no lanes being visible to H.C.P. Open water in afternoon. Calmer. Much ice in bay 30 0 1 X 0 Calm. Much pan ice with abundant broad lanes, betw: 2 0 Calm. Ice as yesterday 3 0 calm. Ice scattered. Open water reported S. of Cape York. 4 0 Easterly gale. 5 0 Less wind. At 1 p.m.- hoisted sails and went out toward entrance to bay Too much ice outside to warrant trying for North Star Bay. Re- turned to anchorage. 6 0 Variable wind. Shocks.

473 Date. Rem. Remarks, 7X 0 Light S. wind & Calm. Much open water, extending in lanes as far as Eteflow and I could see from mountain above cliffs, i.e. from Conical Rock to region of Cape Athol. 8 0 Calm. Thick. Much ice in bay. 9 0 Light S.E. breeze & Calm. Bay still filled with old ice. 10 0 Heavy S.E. wind cleared ice out of the bay. 11 1 High wind till mid-of- ternoon: Then ship was sailed over to northeast quarter of bay to place chosen for wintering. To winter berth of "Chett" 12 0 Light N. wind 13 0 Began housing in the vessel.

474 (con. fr. p.465) it bears out Captain Gorne's reiter- ated remark to me that the failure of this voyage is not the fault of the vessel or her engine but is the fault of the mas- ter and the engineer. N.B. On leaving Sydney we had less than 50 stls & kerosene. This according to engineer would have been enough for only 300 hrs run at maximum. Wholly inadequate supplies 10 December. Friday. Overcast and thick with much flying snow in the air. Therefore dark and disagreeable at midday. Strong wind from S.E. began to blow last night and continues today. Bad for the ice. Temp. min.-4°; 9a.,+8° On board all day. Dismal enough. Had a little seal meat in addition to the corned beef and undercooked pea soup for dinner. Added can effediton peaches. Cape York people storm bound here. Wind still strong at midnight.

475 11 December. Saturday. Overcast till after noon, beginning to clear about 2 p.m. Wind decreasing to moderate strength. Temp. min +4°; 9a. +17°; 2(?)p. +11°; 8p.+7° Sent canisters ashore by I netlake to be repaired. The rabbit skin stockings are very tender and the skin breaks easily, On board all day for lack of canisters and on account of dark and disagree- able character of the midday hours. The engineer told me to-day that he un- derstood that last year the fly wheel broke in the hub just as this one did this year. He says that the old wheel, being loose, were a depression in the crank shaft which made it impossible to fit on a new wheel without turning down the shaft beyond the depression. A wheel that would go over the outer end of the shaft would be loose in the position where it belonged, and that was the

476 case with the new wheel. He says that the engineer who brought the 'Cluett' up from New York to Boston had trouble with the flywheel through its loose- ess but that when he (the former engineer) left the vessel at Boston he merely put the key in place and said nothing about the real trouble with the engine. The 'Cluett' had not proceeded an hour from Boston on her way to St. John's before the key worked out of the slot, and Cotton's troubles began. Cotton says that the hole in the exhaust was then troublesome and kept getting worse. He urged Captain Pickels to have the hole mended in Sydney, but the latter refused because he was afraid that if he began on the engine he would find other things that would have to be done. Cotton tried to have him get something with which to make the repairs on

board ship, but nothing was gotten. Cotton says that the ship is liable to a heavy penalty for having an engine room like hers, without adequate ventila- tion. At four o'clock the sky is clear and the moon's light is visible over the mountains, though her disc can not from here be seen. At six o'clock Gretliak brought back my kamikis ready for use again. 12 December. Sunday. Ice 25 1/2" Overcast morning, clearing about 2 p.m. Cloudless evening of great beauty with moon visible above southern mts from 3 to [illegible] p.m. Temp. min -4°; 9a. -1°; 2p. +1°; 6p. +3°; 8h. -4° The wind blew the loose snow off the ice and greatly improved the footing on the bay. Tanquary and I had a pleasant walk in the dim light from noon to 2 p.m., going out to the black point beyond the big valley, at least 2 1/2 miles from the ship.

478 He did not go far enough to see any signs of leads or open water. The black fog over the open sea was many miles outside the bay. The bay ice rubbing against the ice foot of the great cliff under the influence of the swell due to the rising tide produced a really music- al tone rhythmic in its cadence. This was intensified by reflection from the vertical and almost vertical rock walls of the cliff, and therefore was louder here than elsewhere along the shore. A half-mile east of the val- ley, at the place where we have seen foxes so often, we heard sharp bark- ing from the cliff slope as if of some animal in pain. Some time after our return to the ship Predlack came on board saying that he had caught a fox in one of his traps. Perhaps it was the fox that Dr. Tangman and I heard.

499 At eleven o'clock or soon afterward this morning, the four Cape York Es- kimos started for Unenak by land over the glacier and ice cap. It will be a hard journey for them, especially so for Barlina, who expects to be con-fined in three or four months.* The weather is favorable, however, and perhaps they will reach North Star Bay before the moon sets. If they do they will have no trouble in finishing the journey tonight. * Baby arrived about a week after B. got to Unenak! 13 December. Monday. Clear morning, but with low lying fog in bay. Overcast noon and thick on ice cap. Calm. Temp. min -8°; 9a. -8°; noon -8°; 8p. -4½° Spent day on board and got in some hours good work on Matinigue report. Roast polar bear meat for dinner which would have been fine had it not been cooked too much.

480 after dinner Tangnam and I walked out to valley and back. Somewhat foggy at first and could not see south side land. Cleared up by 7:30 and was beautiful. Calm excepts for very light easterly wind about 7 o'clock for a half hour. Are somewhat anxious lest something serious has detained Mae Millan. 14 December. Tuesday. Clear. Calm at ship but moderate or light N.E. wind is blowing on ice cap. Thin clouds Temp. min.-8°; 9a. 0°; noon 0°; 3h.+5°; 8h.+6° Air feels damp and day is new. Worked on Martinique and other writing during afternoon. Four mile walk about head of bay with Tangnam after dinner. Partly Clear when we started but clouded over before we got back to the ship. 12 p.m. overcast and somewhat thick. Moon hidden. Light S.W. wind began.

There was a great commotion on shore with abundant howling on the part of the dogs. It transpired that Pudtl- laki's dogs, some of them, had gotten into the fox traps again. This time fortunately the traps were Pudtlaki's and Alaskutsiak's, hence the ship was not to blame. I am glad of this for one of the dogs, P.'s best one of course, broke a leg. St. Peter had the good luck, if not the good sense, to be on board the ship. This evening during our walk, I suggested to Dr. Tanquary, as I had already done to Mr. Ekblaw, that these two men at least had better write out and give to me a statement of their criticisms of the management of the scientific work of the C.L. Expedition. The letters are to be sealed and confidential and are not to be opened unless the conference in

482 New York with Mr. Mac Millan and the Expedition authorities fails to be held next fall. Eckblaw and San- Gray should do this, in my opin- on, for their own protection as well as because the organizing effects - institutions have the right to have the information. 4 1/2 p.m. H.C.P. set me up to choco- late, lunch tongue and crackers and I added milk, crackers and figs to the feast (?). I dislike accepting such favors from him, under all the circumstances ther obtain. 15 December. Wednesday. Overcast, thick and dark, with high S.E. wind and some spitting snow in air - Temp. min. 0°; 9a.+28°; 12m.+28°; 3p.+24° Got in some hours on Martinique work. Showed and explained my graphic camera outfit to Eckblaw. Gave Capt. Come's second draft of report back to him this noon with my comments.

483 On board all day, dismal and Tedious enough. Poker for matches as usual this evening. Mind moderated somewhat in evening. 16 December. Thursday, Partly overcast morning. Calm, or light variable wind - From N.W. at 1 p.m. at 3 p.m. sky so heavily overcast as to hide moon from sight, and remained so. Temp. min +15°; 9a. +15°; 1:30p. +10°; 10h. +10° Out with Tanquary as far as Cape Valley. Snow a little soft in places but not bad for walking. Almost none fell yesterday. Gave him letter written yesterday asking and authorizing him to take charge of my personal effects in case of my death between now and when we reach New York and deliver them to Director of the Museum. Captain Comer repaired his snow igloo, which had become somewhat damaged by soft weather and wind.

484 Crew mended banking about ship with blocks cut from snow drift in front of the vessel. The banking should be higher and thicker than it is. We still use the ladder in passing be- tween the ice and the rail. Supply of smoking tobacco is out. Only a few of the crew have even a little and there is much complaint. H. P. has smoked the last of his. He has a few pounds - less than 25 - lbs. of Battle Ax chewing tobacco which he got from me (exped). The chief slices and dries this and smokes it with difficulty. Some of the crew are chewing it, drying the end and smoking that. I have a very little plug smoking left, besides about 3 lbs. of strong plug smoking which I am reserving for the Eskimos on the trail across Melville Bay. Janquary has three cigars left which he is saving for Christmas and New Years. I have ten left of a box of Danish cigars which Janquary gave me about three months ago.

485 Began the preparation of my report in the voyage to President Osborn, Alakutsiak, who has been out To-day with his poor little dog team , reports the existence of a big head of open water off Cape Dudley Digges. 17 December. Friday. Overcast till about noon , then cleared and we had magnificent cloudless afternoon and evening . Little or no wind all day , what there was apparently from N. or N.E. Temp. min +6° ; 9a., +7° ; 4h. + 4° ; 9h. +3° . Worked on report to President Osborn. Five mile walk with Tanquary after dinner. Out to point beyond valley. After our game for matches this evening some of us sat about the cabin - dining room- for a time , Tanquary and Leaking straight bread , tho my slice had about a quarter of a teaspoonful of molasses on it. Captain Corner cut himself a slice

486 of bread then looked into the empty tea- classes cup and threw his bread down on to the stove to dry. The mate looked at my slice of bread, remarked that the corn seemed to have run dry and went forward to see what he could find. After finishing my dry bread, I started for my room at 11 o'clock and found the captain (H.C.P.) sitting at his desk with two glasses of chocolate before him, one of which was for me. I went on into my room to hang up my lamp. Before I got back, Captain Corner had come to the door of Captain Pickels's office and seen the latter drinking his chocolate. I think that P.C. did not see the second glass. At any rate he began to scold H.C.P. for a greedy hog, not half feed- ing his crew and passengers. An angry altercation ensued between the two captains which looked serious for at a time and as if it would

surely come to blows. H.C.P. said that he had not eaten any of the bread and that the chocolate was his own, also that he never [illegible] any without sharing it with some one else - all quite true, I believe. The now brought Tanquary, Norman and me between the angry men and Captain Corner finally went out. Then the Captain (H.C.P.) was left alone. In a few minutes, the mate (Mr. Davis) came into the dining room complain- ing that he could not find anything to put onto his bread for a "ring up". Captain Pickels called him into his office telling him that if he had anything to say, he should say it there. The mate started in all sight about the shortage of pro- visions and I jumped up my primers stove in order not to hear their talk, which is quite lively, judging from the noise than

488 I can hear above the roar of the storm. The mate went out at 11:39. There pro- -mises to be plenty of trouble aboard this vessel, long before she can get out next summer. 18 December. Saturday. Calm, beautiful, practically cloudless all day. Daylight barely discernible in S. at noon on account of brightness of moonlight. Temp. min.-7°; 9a.-7°; 2p.-7°; 5p.-7° Four mile walk on bay with Captain Co- mer. He feels bitter toward Captain Pickels on account of the mismanagement on board the ship and the lack of so many tings needed for comfort and health. At 9:30 this evening there is a distant halo about the moon, wonderful for its perfection and beauty. All quiet on board to-day. H.P.P. was used up nervously by last night's trouble(?) and had a chill this morning. He was ill all day. finished rough draft of report to H.F.O.

489 19 December. Sunday. Clear, cloudless most of day. Calm + light wind. Temp. min -8°; 9a.+3°; 2p.0°; 8:30p.-7°. Ice 27" H.C.P. felt so bad last night that he called on me for help again about 11 o'clock. I dosed him up with 10gr. aspirin, some whiskey, and a hot lemonade. He feels better today and is taking some antifebrin from my medical chest. I am almost sorry that I inter- fared with Captain Corneis having his dispute out with Captain Pickels Fri- day night. The latter deserves all that he might have gotten and the former was really standing up for the rights of the passengers and the crew. Tanquary expressed this opinion on our five mile walk this beautiful evening. All of us are awfully sore against H.C.P. As Tanquary says, the man has treated us like dogs since we have been on board. Wele - I have

490 given the matter much thought and it has seemed to me best to avoid a quarrel with the captain, though he cannot fail to have understood my opinion of some matters. Oh, for the deliverance of a good start south- ward on time! But MacMillan has not appeared on the scene yet and we are anxious lest something more serious than the condition of the ice may have delayed him. Acting on a suggestion made by Dr. Tanquary, I told Ekblaw and Comer this evening that I wanted them to get for ultimate transfer to the University [illegible] of Illinois a complete hunting out- fir, topic and clothing of both men and women. Ekblaw said that he would be glad to attend to the matter as it would not be difficult or expensive, Twenty-five dollars worth of stuff would be ample to cover the cost.

The poor old cook got into trouble today with his fire and his steam cooker, so that the plum duff was dough and our Sunday dinner lacked an important item of the menu and there was nothing to take its place. As Charlie said, the prunes in it were good, anyhow. 20 December. Monday. Clear, cloudless, calm. Temp. min - 7°; 9 a.-7°; 6 p.-6° On board all day. Writing most of time. Wrote to Captain Pickets giving him official notice of my intention to have all my party leave the "Clueett" during January, 1916, on account of the shortness of food which he reported to me on 5 November. Also asked ed for statement of his plans for the vessel next summer. He replied that he proposed to start for a port where repairs can be made as early in the season as he could get out.

492 Norman cut my hair and trimmed my beard for me this morning. Last time before taking the trail (I hope). I look the picture of my father, as I recall his appearance at my age. He was then living in Minneapolis. Annual meeting and dinner of the X M. Y. Academy of Sciences was held this evening, no doubt, just the same as if I had been on hand to attend it. The world goes on without us all right. 21 December. Tuesday, Clear, cloudless, calm. A wonderful day. Temp. min -13°; 9a. -10°; noon -15°; 5p. -16½°; 8p. -17½° Ekblaw and I took a five mile walk out the north side of the bay. The mountains were beautiful under the brilliant light of the full moon, but we cannot perceive that the moon is any brighter here than it is in America, EK

493 judging from clear, dry cold days on Easter evenings in Illinois when the ground is white with snow, and I from similar evenings in Min- nesota. EK and I did not think of dinner while we were out, until after we had turned back from near the first northern headland. Then we realized that we should be late for the important meal. Sarquany and Allen had finished their pea soup by the time we sat down at table. The pea soup was well cooked today and was good, quite a contrast to the many days on which Yankee Nathan has served it with the peas too hard to be eaten with relish or safety. This afternoon I gave EK Blau some of my underclothing that I should otherwise have left here packed up. He took his second lesson in the handling of my graphic camera. His e

494 eyes still trouble him greatly at times and are a source of worry to him. 22 December. Wednesday. Thinly overcast and hazy in morning, be- ginning to thicken toward noon, making the day a dark one in spite of the moon. Temp. min -17°; 9a.-11°; noon-11°; 5p.-3°; 10:30 - 2° at 12:40 p.m. Peter and Dr. Hunt, with Itukashue and Inughitsueh and their wives almost+ arrived from Umenak via the ice cap; bringing letters from Mac Millan and Green. Dr. Hunt had been held up at Umenak for about three weeks. Mac and Green had not arrived yesterday. Nor had Mac sent down any skins. He wrote that Green was being out- fitted at Etah all right but that no serving for the other three members of the southbound done party could be made there. I therefore asked Peter to go ahead with marking all the cloth- [illegible] needed for our party with whatever ma- terial he had and could get. Dr. Hunt says that Ituukis baby looks

like a full blooded Eskimo child. She brought it to Etah and he saw it there. 495- Ootuk's mother, whom I saw at Kiaterk, sent me by Peter a face protector of fine blue tails fur skins as a gift. Also a harness of polar bear. Peter brought a Xmas gift of tobacco to the crew. 23 December. Thursday. Very little snow fell during night. Some- what overcast and thick a.m. Dark noon. Cleared somewhat in afternoon and more during evening. Calm during day, or light wind, but keen wind off ice cap at midnight. Temp. min -10°; 9a., -5° Several conferences during day. Peter and party started for Umernak about 10:30 p.m. taking Corner and leaving Dr. Hunt. *See on p. 496. 24 December. Friday. Overcast and thick and light fog half of day. Moderate to strong S wind (easter- ly in bay). Temp. min -13°; 9a., -11°; 9h., -15° About 2:15 this morning Peter and

496 his entire party returned to the ship, having encountered impassable leads near the Petowik Glacier. They cached their baggage (i.e. Captain Comer's chest and box) and the boxes of supplies on shore. This is a great disappointment to us all, on account of the consequent delay in the manufacture of our clothing for the southern trip; also on account of the drain on the ship's food. Yesterday Dr. Heintz examined me as carefully as he could by ear and questioning and stated that in his opinion I was physically qualified to take the trip across Melville Bay provided that I was outfitted properly and undertook no severe physical exertion. He also said that he desired me to have the physician at Uper- niviik examine me and pass upon the advisability of my continuing the journey by sledge. This

497 short disturbed Peter greatly and led him to urge the inclusion of Dr. Hunt in our southward bound party, for the protection of all in case of accident to me. I called Ekblaw, Janquary and Allen into conference with me regarding the matter, feeling that they had rights to be considered and conserved and that I needed their counsel. Ekblaw ex- pressed his willingness to relinquish his claim on the surgeon, if it seemed best for Dr. Hunt to accompany my party, but reserved final decision of the question for fur- thier consideration. Janquary and Allen thought that Peter's attitude should be a prime determining factor. Of course my decision cannot be given until after a conference with Mac, since he by contract is still in direct control over Dr. Hunt and his movements. To-day Peter gave me a letter asking that Dr. Hunt be included in the south-

498 bound party. Peter says that Hunt will not add as much to the unwieldi- ess of the party as he will increase its efficiency by his skill and endurance in matters pertaining to arctic travel. Hunt has a peculiarly high and grat- ifying sense of his duty toward the other members of the Crocker Land party under the terms of the contract and will not ex- press any desire with reference to his own going or staying. About noon Ahngodoblako ar- rived from Cape York on a mission of inquiry regarding Egingwah and Erik and their wives. They came here for "a day or two", but from here they went on to Unerak and thence went with Neverana and others for Chr. to Kongardluk- uak for Christmas festivities with the missionary who lives

499 There, And Ahugodblako is a fine old man and had gotten anxious to their own return to Cape York at the time agreed upon. He is said to be the oldest man of the tribe, but we cannot make out that he is more than 56 or 58 years old. He killed his first seal in the year when the "Po guis" men went south in the boats which they built at Life Boat Cove, which was 1871. The boys are 12 to 14 years old when they kill their first seals. He is an energetic, skillful hunter and is prosperous. His bear-skin pants and Kamikputts are fine. Blankets shirt made for me by the women. 25 December Saturday. Overcast and windy and dark,- a dismal Christmas in the Arctic. Temp. min -15°; 9a. -13°; 8p. -12° The northerly wind is strong as

500 the ice cap and Peter and his party cannot travel with safety. They and we hope that they can leave tomorrow. From midnight to three this morn- ing Dr. Hunt and I discussed Ex- pedition matters, especially the bearing of the contract with ref- erence to all parties concerned. Evidently that contract has been a very sore matter with him and other members of the expedition party, what they consider trough the arbitrary and inconsistent use of by the leader of the offensive powers given him thereby. He warn- ed me against giving credence to un- supported statements by the Eskimos, since they are great gossips and the women are fond of boasting of their at- He criticized failure to provide ac- tractions, accommodations for party on ship. Ahnquodablaho arrived just in time to prevent distress in the igloo on shore here. Puttlak was down to

501 one day's supply of seal fat for five days before yesterday. H.C.P. gave him some engine oil to help him out and I was going to loan Dretlisk a primus stove, when the old man came in from Cape York with seal fat and meat. We had quite a Christmas dinner this afternoon, as follows: canned roast beef, de-hydro potatoes, canned tomatoes, canned corn, canned beets, olives, bread, butter, plum duff with prune sauce, and Danish "mrost" (a kind of cider) as a beverage. We all thought much of home, at any rate I know that I did, and we wished that our friends could at least know that we were safe and well to-day, if not happy. I broached two of our boxes of candy for all the crew as well as ourselves. Ekblaw took some nuts down to the forecastle with my sanction.

502 The crack in the store now extends nearly half way around and threatens trouble soon. Yesterday I put on my heavy drawers and to-day my heavy under- shirt for the first time. 26 December. Sunday. Clear. Light northerly wind followed by calm (2p.). Temp. min.-16°; 9a., -12°; 9h., -17°. Ice, 2'8"" Peter and his party, including Dr. Hunt and Captain Comer, left about 3a.m. for Umenak via the ice cap. I was sleeping so soundly that I did not hear the disturbance made by their departure. Ahngokbloaho started somewhat earlier for Cape York, but he returned by ten o'clock on account of wide leads encountered between Parker Snow Point and Akpat. The judgment of the Eskimos regarding weather is remarkable. Alniak, I- tukashu's wife, came over from the igloo

503 at about 2 a.m., while the wind was still strong here, and awakened Peter, telling him that there was no wind on the ice (cap. Surely enough the wind died down so that there could not have been much up there by they time that they arrived on the glacier. Last night I trimmed off most of my moustache and goatee and to-day's walk out to the big valley and back with Janquay proved the value of the change, almost no ice forming around my mouth instead of the clumps that have formed heretofore. Janic had clipped only his moustache, but no ice form- ed on his chin and I am going to let the beard grow again on my chin. We had a good walk in the sharp, calm air. The ice must be improving in this weather. As we turned to come back to the ship about 3:45 we noticed a thin band of aurora spanning the

504 heavens completely from E.N.E. to W.S.W. in a vertical arch. Its intensity in- creased and by six o'clock it was de- cidedly brilliant, of varying density and breadth. It was the best aurora that we have seen here and as fine as any that the Etah men have seen during their stay in the Arctic. At 7:30 it was again a thin band arching across the northern sky one third way to the zenith. When the aurora was [illegible] at its brightest we listened for any sound coming from it but could not be certain that we heard any. H.C.P. says that the aurora indicates the coming of warmer weather. We hope that it will not come for we want cold weather and calm to insure our prompt, safe start southward. This afternoon between dinners the fire went out and the chief im- proved the opportunity to make the

505 pattern for a copper band to encircle the broken fire pot of the cabin stove. Ekblaw cleaned out Captain Comeis old room after dinner and moved his effects in. At last the man has good quarters and I am glad of it, for he has been sleeping on the cabin roof for a month and his sleeping bag has become so wet and icy that it has been decidedly uncomfortable for several nights. He has not com- plained, as he might well have done, but he is very glad to move down and have a room of his own. No thanks are due to H.C.P., however. Ek had practically reached the limit of endurance on the roof. Ahngodoblaho started again evening for Cape York this afternoon, this time via the Clerett glacier and the ice cap. He probably descends to the sea ice at Akpat or beyond, where he feels sure of the traveling.

506 The twilight at noon was distinctly brighter than it was yesterday. We notice the increase more than we did the decrease, but it is practically night at noon. The daylight will be usable for traveling several hours at mid day two weeks hence. May we be ready to use it then, is my most earnest prayer. 27 December. Monday Overcast, thick. Heavy S. E. wind. Temp. min. -19°; 9a.m. -14° ; noon -13° Very little light at noon. Extremely dis- greeable day. Bad for ice off the capes. Alakutski came into the dining room early this afternoon dressed up in a long overcoat and soft felt hat and with a book under his arm. He looked odd enough. The men in the forecastle had fixed him up and got him off as a joke. One of Lundtakis dogs lay against

507 the window of the igloo last night and burst the mattress sheet. A rather serious matter with the temperature at -19, the wind blowing and almost no seal blub- er on hand. Ineliak was over here this afternoon and I loaned her one of my primus stoves and gave her some solid alcohol and candles. Captain Piestels gave her some candles and kerosene, saying that he would keep her supplied with oil if I let her have a stove. The engine oil experiment in the Eskimo store did not result very successfully. Ahnugodoblako started out with some real meat and blubber for Pudtlak when he left Cape York last Friday, but he had to cache most of it at Arpat on account of the leads in the ice. Pudtlak is going to try to get it tomorrow, but the storm now on makes the prospect dubious. Inel.

508 liak is at work on our blanket mittens. Allen has been making out a sheep- skin a wind mask for his face. He wore it to-day on a five mile walk in the wind and pronounced it excellent. When he took it off, however, it was wet from condensed moisture from his face and breath. 28 December. Tuesday. Clear and cloudless. Little or no wind after 8 a.m., the wind having begun to subside ca 6 a.m. Temp. min.-17°; 9a.-17°; noon-20°; 6:30p.-22° 9p.-14° During middle of day went out with Ian- garry for nine mile walk. Fine, sharp weather, with light off shore breezes coming out of the valleys. Went out to the black point beyond Big Head Land near the large valley ("Serpentine" valley). Isaac said that the light was good enough for four hours of sledge travel even on Melville Bay.

509 Chief Cotton came back from igloo this evening saying that the seal oil and fat were all gone. Inethiak has run the primus somewhat to-day, but is saving of the kero- sene. She is sewing on the blanket mit- tens for us by candle light, without fire. Alakutsiak went with his kamatik to- day to go to a spot by the sea ice for the seal blubber left there by Ahnguodoblako. Existence here is always on the rag- ged edge for people hampered as Pudthak is. It is hard enough for the vigorous, energetic families pos- sessing all their faculties. At dinner to-night we had some baked seal meat from a seal brought over by Inughite. It was somewhat "high", but I liked it much better than the freshly killed seal which we have had on rare occasions here- tofore. Tank had a frozen chunk of the raw flesh. I tried a bit and

510 found it good, but not as much to my taste as the baled meat. Spent some hours on my summer report to President Osborn. It is going to be long for a "summary" report, and I fear that he will not desire a full report! 29 December. Wednesday. Clear, cloudless, calm. Temp. min -26°; 9a.-24°; noon -24° Was almost finishing my report to H.F.O. at 3 p.m. when the cry "Kamatics" came down the forward companionway. Mac Millan had arrived with Borenman via the ice cap from Umnak. Mac was a welcome arrival! He and Green had reached Umnak at 2 p.m. Christmas, expecting to see us all there, but they found no one there at Pete's house except the two small girls and the deaf and dumb boy. Quite a disappointment to them!

The next afternoon Peter and his party arrived from here. Captain Comer stood the trip very well, not getting frostbitten. Mac had brought plenty of skins and some clothing so that the completion of our outfit for the south proceeded at once and every- thing should be ready for a start "on time". Since the date set is 7 January from Uranarak, we think that the party will actually get off within a week from that day. Mac strongly advises me not to go on account of my age and inexperience in Arctic travel. He wavered just a little when I told him that I would not go beyond Upernivik if I found Melville Bay too hard for me for safety or if the doc- tor at Upernivik advised against my continuing the journey. He brought me a letter from Dr. Hunt "personally advising" me not to go, but this seems

512 somewhat strange advice now in view of his professional statement that I am physically qualified for the journey provided I undertake no severe exer- tion. EK told me about how well I had climbed the hills and cliffs around Parker Snow Bay and he and Frank related my almost daily walks of four to ten miles without any evidence of fatigue. I said that I wished not to burden the party, but that it seemed highly important on Museum as well as personal ac- counts that I should try the trip. There is too little food and fuel for me to stay at Unalak and the journey to Etah (which all advise) is admitted to involve more ne- cessary physical exertion than the stretch to Cape Upernivik ne- essarily involves, while it is more than half as long. The

most severe exertion of the southern jour- ney lies south of Upernivik and in four south of Egedesminte, between these and Holstensborg. Dr. Hunt is coming to the ship day after tomorrow. I said therefore that I would undertake the journey, since Sanquar and Allen profess no hesitancy about it,-unless the doctor after another examination should say that it would be really unsafe for me to go. Green is the only member of the party who is opposed to my going. Mac and I talked over many things pertaining to the expedition. He agrees to the plan whereby Ekblaw remains at North Star Bay to do the geological and botanical work and this evening he has given to Ekblaw written instructions to take full charge of the "southern sta- tion" of the Expedition and carry our

514 the work according to plans pro- posed by Eskblaw. Mac promises more that Hunt and Comer will likewise be stationed at Urmanak and placed under Eskblaw's direc- tion by his (Mac's) order as leader of the Expedition. Mac agrees fur- thermore that Esk shall have all the supplies and trading material need- ed for subsistence and the work. In view of this promise I surren- dered to Mac Millan all the Muse- um and Expedition supplies and trading material left of what came north with me on the "Cluett". Mac assures me that he has not procured more than 200 fox skins, that many of them were ob- tained in exchange for the trading watches donated to the Expedition by the American Watch Co. (Wal- tham Co) while the rest were got.

ten for other material that was not vital to the subsistence or the objects of the Expedition. He objects to hand- ing them over to Frenchen at the prices offered, saying that he himself would pay in cash twice as much for them. When I learned the comparatively small number of the skins, I withdrew my insistence upon turning them all over to Frenchen, but said that I should like to have some of them used in paying Frenchen for the skins and work and material fur- nished by him (Frenchen) for the outfit of the southbound party. I believe that this is what is to be done. formal. At my request Mae Niellan wrote letters to Tanquary and Allen in- structing them to proceed south used in January, 1916, in the party for which I have made provision and he placed them in my care.

516 He promised to give a similar letter to Green. I accepted the commission. This arrangement was effected in the presence of Jan- guary, Allen and Eskblaw. Mae slept on the transom in Cap- tain Pickels's office after declining captains offer of his own bunk - This was arranged after I had asked H.C.P. what he would do for Mae for the night. I turned in at 2:15 a.m. after writing some letters for Mae to take back with him to Una- nak. 30 December: Thursday - Clear, cloudless, calm. Temp. min - 26°; 9 a - 21°; 2 p. - 25°; 8 p. - 25°. Mae Millan got away for U- nanak over the sea ice at about 11:20 this morning, followed by Boseman. Before going,

517 Mac said to me that he was growing more favorably impressed with my physical appearance the more he saw me. This afternoon Jacquay, Allen and I took our four mile walk. The midday light is improving with gratifying rapidity. Inasmuch as I did not like my beard or its looks and Mee said that it made me look ten years older, I removed it after dinner and I feel more comfortable. I left the clipped moustache "for seed". Snow knife incident, see p. 542. 31 December. Friday Clear, cloudless and calm till after six p.m. when wind began to blow and the temperature to rise. (mid. +6° Temp. min -28°; 9a.-24°; noon-22°; 9h.+3°) Six mile walk with Jacquay a-

518 long northern side of the bay - Discussed arrangements for southward trip. Said that I would prepare and leave in his care a letter for each of the three men of my party - Languary, Green and Allen - authorizing him to continue the journey in case of my disablement and guaran- teeing the payment of expenses by the Museum. Evening - game for matches. Work on letter of final instructions & to Mr Millers. Midnight - chocolate and hard tack to usher in the New Year, with a round of Canadian Club to his health and happiness. 1916 January. Saturday. Clear, cloudless or almost cloud- less, calm. Wind died out in early a.m. and temperature began to drop - Temp. min -24°; 9a. -13°; 11h. - 18°

579 Nine mile walk with Languary. We went out to the second point beyond the big valley, the same place which we reached on 3 November. Ice is in wonderfully fine condition here, we wish that we might have sledging like this and weather like that of the past five days for our dash across Melville Bay! Allen put an eight inch long pro- foscis onto his sheepskin face mask today. He tried it on a walk this evening but the weather was too calm and not cold enough to test its value. The mask is a funny looking thing and seems hardly practicable. Finished my long "last letter" to Mee- 2 January. Sunday. Clear, cloudless, calm with an occasional light "air". Temp. min - 22°; 9a. -18°; 2p. -16° Ice. 28"

520 Four mile + walk with January through middle of bay. This is the sixth consecutive day of this won- derful weather. Would that another series of days like this might begin on the tenth and help us across Melville Bay! Wrote letters pertaining to south- ward journey. One set to help the men on their way, in case I am obliged to drop out of the race at or before we reach Upernavik. This is the third day on which we have been looking for Dr. Hunt to come in, since Mac said that he would arrive on Friday. We wonder what has happened to de- tain him. Nor have any kamatics come to take supplies over to Uma- nak for Ekbaw and Coner.

521 3 January - Monday. Clear, cloudless, calm over. little wind. Temp. min - 22°; 9a.-17°; 3p.-18½° Dr. Janquary and I walked out to Parker Snow Point and back, a good 8-mile tramp. Local wind at the point very keen. On our way out we met Ahugmalokto, wife & 6 mo. baby coming in from Cape York in one march. Some distance behind him came Alatutsiak on his way home from Cape York. He lost two poor dogs on his way down, but Ahugmalokto loaned him two good ones in their place. According to custom these re- main Ahugmalokto's property but Alatutsiak may use them as long as he wishes to keep them. Janquary & I took a good look at the spot where the "Cluett" was moored to the cliff and were again glad that she was not long in that dangerous position. After dinner Snefliak and Mersa

522 Ahugmalokto's wife and her baby came into the cabin for a chat. They were very bright and cheerful, especially Inethiak, who seems to be the nicest of the women whom I have seen up here. Ahugma- lokto's wife has five children, which is an unusually large number for this region. Ekblaw came into my room this evening to talk over his plans for the future, after the Expedition returns. He is extremely desirous of working up his geological, geo- graphical, botanical and ornitho- logical data directly and con- tinuously after his return. It seems to me most desirable that some suitable arrange- ment be made, enabling him to do it during the next year or two under the auspices of, the Museum, the Geographical Soc.

Society and the N.Y. Botanical Garden. His work, in fact comprises the most and the best of the scientific work of the Expedition and it ought to be published as soon and as well as possible, for the sake of the reputa- tions of the institutions back- ing the Expeditions. One phase of the questions that is of high importance to EK is the getting a Ph.D. out of it. I suggested the possibility of effecting a working arrangement with Co- lumbia through Profs. Kemp and Britton. A good programme would be - three or four months at the Bo- tanical Garden, then four to six months at the Museum and Geograp-h cal Society's fldg on geology, ornith- ology and geography, then three months or the examination of the arctic botan- ical collections at Copenhagen, Lund and Kew Gardens, ending with

524 three to six months at the American Museum rounding everything up. During our walk Dr. Tanquary called my attention to the delicate lavender light noticeable in the west and said that it was a harbinger of the returning sun. 4 January. Tuesday. Somewhat hazy, but not enough so to hide the brighter stars. Calm or with light wind. In evening a somewhat stronger breeze came in from the west or southwest. Temp. min -20°; 9a.-11°; 3h.-9° [note: nom -15°] Dr. Tanquary and I walked across to the snowdrift glacier and then around the head of the bay back to the schooner, a tramp fully 4 mi. Have been busy writing letters & cablegrams and making other preparations for departure.

525- 5 January - Wednesday. Overcast, thick and foggy all day with occasional light variable wind at the ship - Clear and calm evening. Temp. min -15°; 9a-12°; 9h.-17° January and I took our usual 4+ mile walk, in spite of the dark and dismal character of the day, gone out to the middle of the bay opposite the big gulf. Out there there was a moderate westerly (S.W.?) wind which was very keen as the temperature combined with the dampness of the fog. Overhauled and repacked most of my things preparatory to start- ing on the great hike Southward. Am giving to Esklaw and Conor all my ordinary clothing that may be of use to them for them - selves or in trade with the Es- Kimos. Am taking no "civilian"

526 clothing with me except underclothing, thin cotton socks to wear inside the rabbit stockings of the kamiks, a few handkerchiefs, two neckties) two soft white shirts with collars attached. We are cutting out every- thing possible to omit as not being needed on the trail in order to light en the Kamatik loads. 6 January. Thursday. Clear, with light easterly or S.E. wind and calm. Strong S.E. freeze for a time in the evening= Cloudless Temp. min.-22°; 9a.-16° 4p.-17° woke up this morning to find 12-17 Dr. Hunt seated at the first table for breakfast, he and Mere hav- ing come in after a hard trip yes- terday from Ummanak in the fog. They slept out last night on the ice near Peterson glacier.

527 They brought over a lot of our fur clothing and were followed soon after noon by Eginequah and Eric and their wives bringing some more of our things. It looks now as if we should get started about Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. Peter is much confused over the official relations existing between Mac Millan and me, and evidently there has been much gossiping talk, but I think that things will straighten themselves out when we get onto the trail. Mac left Unanak Friday for Etah. "January and I walked our five miles along the middle of the bay. It rejoices us to see the daylight increasing so noticeably every day. Dr. Houser put temporary fillings into two wisdom teeth between 11 and 12 h.m. Late dentistry!

528 Barlina's baby if two weeks or so old was in her hood. The baby came at U- manacle about a week before Christmas; that is, not more than a week after Barlina went over the ice cap [illegible] from here to North Star Bay. Going some! + Called Ekblaw, Tanquary, Hunt and Allen into Capt. Pietsels's Office and read to them the "Note on Expedi- tion Affairs" on pp. 14 and 15 of my report to President Osborn, except the sentence beginning "When I saw Mr. Mac Millan &c" on p. 15. After read- ing it continuously I read it sen- tence by sentence, giving full op- portunity for discussion of each by all the men, and then I asked whether they would stand by the statements that I made - Ekblaw assented to the entire ac- curacy of everything contained in the paragraph as read and said

529 positively that he would stand firmly upon the position taken ; also that he would substantiate the statement of facts, when called upon to do so. January said the same, affirming that the report presented matters correctly and mildly. Hunt said that the paragraph was a conservative state- ment of the facts and that he would stand by the position assumed. Allen expressed the same opinion as the others regarding the correct- ess and conservatism of the para- graph. 7 January. Friday. Temp. min. -16°; 9a.-2°; 3p.-1°; 9p. 0° about midnight last night +6°. windy Somewhat hazy in the morning but almost clear in afternoon and evening. Little or no wind. Mere took a heavy load of

5-30 Ekblaw's supplies out some riles and cached them on shore. Eging- wal, suah and Inuaho arrived about dinner time on their way to Cape York. Inuaho is Mere's first cousin and is the original of Pearcy's "Study in Bronze" in his book "Farthest North". She is a handsome (?) woman, but her ex- pression is not as pleasing as that of I netliak. Gave Inetliak the kooletah which Peter gave me to have her enlarge the hood somewhat. Wrote letters (long ones!) to Mac Millan and Peter. This is the first day set by Peter for his start from Unamanuk. Mere is going back to Unamanuk tomor- row and Peter is to "start as soon as possible after Minik's return", hence we hope to see the big Dane

531 with his eight Kamatics drive in here on Sunday or Monday. But will he come then? Who knows? Egingwah and Erik and their wives and the new little boy left for Cape York about noon. Egingwah took St. Peter harnessed up in his team. The poor dog did not know what to make of it at first, but he soon settled down to the work. He looked garge and well fed in comparison with the other dogs. 8 January. Saturday. Clear, cloudless. Little or no wind. Temp. min -10°; 9a., -7°; 2p.-9° Usual four-mile walk with Ian- quary- Egingwah and Innaho started on for Cape York but were turned by a lead which was too wide to cross. Dr. Hunt tells me that he was

532 requested by Mr. Mac Millan to ren- der what medical assistance should be needed by the crew of the "Clrett" without interfering with his duties to the Crocker Land Expedition and provided transportation were furn- isbed by the "Clrett's" master. Dr. Hunt expressed his willingness to accede to Mac Millan's request, Inasmuch as I, representing the Museum, suggested to Mac Millan in my first letter after our detention the probable need that the crew might have for the services of a physician it may be assumed that the arrangement was made with my knowledge and consent. It seems the only humane thing to do under the circumstances. I hope that the service will be ap- preciated by the owners and cap- tain of the schooner.

J-33 Made out triplicate list of Museum, E.H. Exped. + personal (Tanquay's to the Allens and my own) property left in Ekblaw's care on the "Clevert" when we depart. Crescent moon appeared above the mountains this afternoon and evening, presenting a beautiful sight. I was much pleased with Iner- liak to-day. She has been doing quite a bit of sewing for Tanquay and me, hence the matter of payment had to be settled and I called her into my room with Tanquay to act as interpreter. She formed a pleasing picture as she sat here with Merkui's smiling little face peering over her shoulder from her hood. I gave Iner- liak an alarm clock (a Waterbury) which pleased her very much. She wanted to know all about the hands and the alarm. We asked her what

534 else she wanted. She said that she hardly knew, because she had not done much for us. [Only eight or ten days of solid work perhaps!] He asked about cloth for anoraks. Oh, yes, she would like some, to make one for herself and one for Merker. I promised to send it from Upen- mirsk or by the new ship. [It takes 2 1/2 yds. of gingham for the adults' size.] This gave her an idea and she said that she would like a shirt for her husband, Pudhlak. I asked whether one that I was wearing would answer the pur- pose. Oh yes that would be fine. Thus the matter was settled and she would not ask for more, being well satisfied. Then I gave her a cake of the scented toilet soap, which pleased her greatly. I was glad to note her thoughtful-

"ness for her poor disabled husband. Her devotion to him is as high as any thing of the kind that we see among our own people. Paddlak was an ex- cellent hunter before his eyes were injured, and the family is counted a fine family in the tribe. Dr. Hunt discredits the story about the freezing of the cornea and says that the case looks to him like one of snow blindness. 9 January. Sunday. Clear and cloudless overhead but the fierce S.E. wind which be- gan to rage between 4 & 5 this morn- ing is driving icy snow particles be- fore it and making the lowlying air thick with them. The storm must be terrible on the ice cap; it is one of the most severe, if not quite the most severe that we have

536 had at the ship. Our quarters are cold and barelike, when the wind blows as it does now, in spite of the rise in temperature. Temp. min. -12°; 9a. +8°; 2p. 0°; 10p. -4° This seems to be the worst storm that we have had since we have been in this bay. This evening the air is very thick with flying particles of icy snow and all but the brightest stars are hidden. On board all day, writing letters to Esc- blaw, Pickels, Sherwood and others. 10 January. Monday. Storm ceased about 6 a.m., and the day has been fine, clear and cloudless. Wind gradually diminished during day and evening was calm and cold. Temp. min. -5°; 9a. -5° Ice 34" thick Four mile walk with Langerey. Wind has been occasionally for our woolen clothing.

537 Busy with clothing, packing, writing up accounts, etc. Plenty to do. We think that Pete may come in tomorrow. We hope that he can get around, but we do not know the condition of the ice. The south wind was still high on the ice cap this morning and drove wonderfully long streamers of ice snow out from the crest of the mountain ridge south of us, though there was little wind at the ship. Jerome brought in the bags of kamik gas and hung them in the dining room for more drying, & in my room - Broke one wire of my reading glasses today - Hard luck! But I am almost ready to give them a vacation anyhow. Blood pressure 170 11 January - Friday. Clear in morning, becoming cloudy

538 after noon . Little or no wind. Temp. min -16°; 9a.-16° Eqingwah and Imlaho started for Uma- nak about 11 a.m., taking some of Ekblaw's boxes with them. At 5 p.m. they have not returned, hence it seems evident that they have found the sea ice passable. He hope that Peter is on his way hither with his fleet of kamatiks, though the skies look somewhat threatening now. Wrote letter to Langway a letter constituting him my official mes- senger to carry my report to President Osborn, my letters to Mr. Sherwood and my cablegram to the first station whence it can be despatched, in the event of dis- able illness or accident happen- ing to me on our sledge journey. This letter will not be delivered until the need for it arises - Six mile walk with Langway

539 along north side of bay . Went out to black point beyond the big gulch ("Soapstone Valley" ). The amount of light , moonlight and daylight com- bined, is very promising for the pur- purposes of our Kamatite journey. The chief mended the frame of my spectacles with fine copper wire and a bit of soft solder. January, Allen and I are busy doing last things in preparation for the trek. This evening Lause has been struggling with Dr. Hermt's big must-ox skin sleeping bag, putting some patches of seal skin over the holes in it. 12 January . Wednesday. Fine snow at 9 o'clock but it soon stopped. Somewhat cloudy but not thick as moon clearing later. Temp.min - 19°; 9a. 0°; 2h. -4°

540 Hunt, Tanquary and I walked out to Black Point and back -- six miles or more. Breaths fine for walking. Wore Karrits, Kersey, pants, Andrews's parka and woolen cap. Much sewing and many lost things done. Last game for matches At about 10:45 p.m. The Karra- tiks began to come in and by 11 clock Peter, Green, Pinga out, Boseman, Harrigan and some people for Cape York had arrived. Jatite and Sigdler are expected tomorrow. Much talking followed till 2:30 a.m.! 13 January. Thursday Stormy, with high wind and snow. Temp. min -15°; 9a. -5°. Kept in all day by storm and

conferences; - stormy and other wise - Very busy all day. Peter gave me two white fox skins as Xmas gift. 14 January - Friday. Heavy storm continued all day - Temp. min. - 9°; 9 a. - 9° Jatisk and Koludena came in a - four noon in spite of the weather. Sigdie has dropped out through an offence against Peter. On board all day. Much consul- tation, but every body good natur- ed, - outwardly at least,-though more of Niac's peculiarities have come to light: He seems to avoid the truth sometimes. When he returned from here to Umnak last week he said that he had refused to return January and Allen to my charge although he had given them letters on 30 Dec. in which he wrote "you are now in his (both) care".

542 I learned from Green to-day that Captain Corner had given the double handed snow knife to Mac with injunctions to be sure to give it to me because he had made it for me and had inadvertently taken it with him to North Star Bay. When Mac was here he said nothing to me about the knife, but I saw it on his kammatic when I went out to see him off. I remarked that that had been made for me. Mac replied "Captain Corner gave it to me, but you can have it if you want it because it may be use - ful on the trail". I felt rather sore against the captain but Fitzhugh's story has straightened matters out at Mac's cost. Mac gave Fitz written orders to go southward under my command in my party -

at the same time he gave Fitz other orders to leave my party and press on southward with the Expedition mail in case he (Fitz) thought that it desirable in order to reach Upernivik in season for the Royal danish mail. Fitz and the rest of us considered [this conference took place last evening] these orders in- consistent and conflicting, and he therefore stated in the presence of Ekblaw, January, Peter and my- self that he would disregard the latter orders and proceed loyally under me, since he felt sure that in case of my becoming dis- able and forced to advance more slowly I would make ad- equate arrangements for ad- vancing the mail even to send- ing all three of my associates or in advance of me to Uper.

nink. I assured all the men again that I did not propose to endan- ger the exit of my party to civiliza- tion through holding them back in my account. Dr. Hunt later in the evening made formal protest through Mr. Ekblaw against the provision of Crocker Land Expedition food in sight for this year. He stated [as the others like- wise have done] that the shortage was due in part to the trading for foxskins which had been carried on by the leader. Dr. Hunt stated that the Museum had contracted to supply him with adequate and proper food and that it was not fulfilling the contract. I dis- cussed with Peter the proba- bility and the expense of getting food up from the

345 south by sledge. He said that there was a great shortage of food all thro' Greenland, that it was doubtful wheth- I could get any considerable a- mount up here on account of sledding conditions, if I could procure it, and that it would be very expensive. He himself has some food and trading ma- terial, but not much, which had been entrusted to him by Knud Rasmussen but that he could not let it go except in exchange for fox skins. I said then that I would give Mr. Eckblaw an order on Mr. Mac Millan for fox skins to exchange with Peter (or others if there be any) for articles needed for the support of the Expedition and the carrying out of its purposes. Dr. Hunt said that if I did that he would exonerate the Museum.

546 from blame for the present condition of affairs. [Did he mean more than as far as the trading for fox skins is con- cerned?] Today I have given etc. an order covering this matter and another for skins enough to pay Peter for the material and work connected with outfitting my southward party. Those fox skins are a stench in the nos- trils of everyone connected with the expedition, except Mac, who knows their real history. They are really responsible for much of the intense bitterness toward Mac which is felt by every man in the staff except possibly Joh about whose attitude I am not informed in full, though I know that he was informed that he called Mac down regarding the owner- ship of the skins. I am told

S47 that Mac, when he started the first time for Crocker Land wrote a let- ter of instructions to jot in which he mentioned the foxskins as his own personal property in- tended for his sister and other friends. Allen soldered them up by Mac's orders. 15 January. Saturday. Overcast and stormy till noon, then began to clear and grow calmer. Beauti- ful evening. Temp. 2p.m. - 5°; 6 p.m. - 6° The storm was terrific all night and was accompanied by much snow, but the wind packed the snow down into hard drifts. About noon con- ditions began to improve and about 6 p.m. we considered the matter of starting this evening. The Estevos however said that the wind was still blowing outside the bay and

548 that we had better not start before morning. I acceded of course and gave orders for a 7 a.m. breakfast and to start as soon as possible there after. The kamatis have had their runners polished this evening and some of the packing has been done. We men are all ready and we hope to start on time in the morning. My outfit of four clothing is as follows: 2 kooletahs of caribou skin (Peter + mac) 1 pr. bear skin pants (Peter) 4 pr kamuks with deer or rabbit skin stockings 1 pr moccasins of fox tails 1 pr. bearskin mittens (Navaana) 1 pr. musk ox skin mittens with sheep- skin inner mittens. (D.B.M.) 5 pr. sealskin mittens with inner mittens made from blanket. 1 pr. sheepskin mittens 2 pr. woven woolen mittens (N.Y.) 1 pr. caribou skin outside Kamukshs.

549 1 caribon skin muf. 1 fox tail face protector (ootah's moths) 1 sheepskin bit for kooletah (allen) 1 caribon skin sleeping bag with sealskin cover 1 caribon skin + 1 sealskin to put or snow under the sleeping bag 1 pr. rabbit skin stockings for use in sleeping bag. also 1 blanket shirt with hood 1 anorok or windproof with hood 1 Iceland sweater 2 woolen caps 2 suits heay underwear 2 pr. light woolen drawers 4 pr. light cotton socks 1 coat sweater 1 flannel shirt 1 vest 1 welkorn warmer - this looks like good pro- tection against the cold!

550 16 January Sunday (written 2/4) Up at 6am on account of proposed start for the South. Beautiful weather, clear and calm. Temp. -15°. Break fast at 7 a.m. for departing party consisting of Green, Lanquar, Allen, Peter Francken and myself. It took considerable time to finish the loading of the Kamatiks in spite of what was done last evening. Then it was a work of skill and patience to get the dogs into shape and one does not wait an instant after the traces are unbraided and fastened to the Kamatik before getting underway, for the dogs begin at once to run back and forth braiding the traces again if there is any delay. Seven Kamatiks in all, first started about nine o'clock and about ten Peter gave the usual kick to loosen the runners from the snow and we were off. Ho T.D.

bringing up the rear of the procession, Fitz being just ahead of us. Peter had a bulky load and it was heavy too when he and I were on it, but his twelve dogs pulled brachy and made a good rate of speed, the ice being in fine con- dition. Eskimos were Pingasut, Harri- gan, Kolundena, Boserman, Tatiak - about 75 dogs. Pingasut had his wife a- lone, also his mother and young brother. Languary rode with Tatiak and Allen with Harrigan. Peter stopped before we reached Parker Snow Point to un- tangle traces, and my feet being a little cold I had him put on my Kamik pants on. After that I was warm and comfortable all day though sitting on the sledge was fatiquing. Considerable daylight with added light of nearly full moon enabled me to see the great cliffs clearly and en- joy their grandeur - Off Parker Snow

Point we caught up with the other kamatiks, which were waiting for us, and we forged ahead in a big party - Ice surface would be described as perfectly for foot travel. It was like driving on a mag- ipificent boulevard - Were glad to see the south side of Conical Rock and to have it drop out of sight for supposed- ly the last time - also it did not prove to be my last view of the little island! near Akpat, which is just north of the northernmost of the fourteen glaciers which come down the crimson cliffs between Parker Snow Point and Cape York , we found an open lead making toward the land but near the glacier the lead was closed and was a mere crack in the ice where we crossed it - This glacier is large and important and reaches the sea, where it presents a bold, jagged front of terraces and discharges many bergs

during the summer, Peter tells me that he knows of no Danish name for it and that the Eskimos speak of it only as the glacier near akpat - I propose therefore to call it "Ekblaw Glacier" in honor of W. E. Ekblaw. There is an ig- loo at Akpat, but no one is living there this winter. Some miles south of the glacier there is a large grotto or sea cave in the cliff, about 1/3 way from Parker Snow Point to Cape York, which is much used as a shelter by the Eskimos travel- ing along the coast in the winter. I took and walked over to the entrance while the dogs were being untangled, but we did not go in because the ice along the ice foot was wet. Name Sukkoon. About 3 p.m. the kamatiles halted for luncheon and to rest the dogs. A primus stove was lighted, coffee was made and a box of biscuit was broached. The Eskimos are lively and fond of games.

554 and stunts. Peter took a biscuit, stood it up in the snow and lined up the men about ten paces distant. Then the men, more or less by turns, closed their eyes and tried to walk up to the biscuit and win it. Great merri- ment was caused by the wanderings of the contestants. At last one man was successful and enjoyed the prize. They chased one another about and also tried walking on their hands. Green excelled all in walking on the hands - after four o'clock there was practically no daylight left, but the moonlight ride was fine. Passed a beautiful valley in which no one would like, be- cause a man had been executed there. He was an antipath (X) or medicine man who was considered responsible for much trouble that had come onto the tribe. Two men were as usual to appointed to kill him. They fired

Ahy-go-di-blo-ah-sok but my wounded him He told them that they would have to hit his heart to kill him, but woe to him who did it. They fired again and he dropped, but within a year (?) the man whose shot was fatal mortal to him was killed by an accidental shot through the heart and two of his near relatives were killed by one by an accidental knife thrust and me by a similar harpoon wound through the heart. The Eskimos there- fore consider the antagonist to have been very powerful as a magician. As we rounded the extremity of Cape York Peter said to me "Only an hour more", but this was a joke, for within ten minutes we had reached the settlement and I was in Ahogadoblah's igloo about eight o'clock. Nine hours of driving at a rapid rate and one hour rest en route. Fifty miles is

536 the lowest estimate that any of the experienced ones would place on the journey - Three igloos comprise the settlement. The northernmost (N.S.2) is occupied by Ahnquodotako, his wife, then an orphan boy whom they have adopted, their son Ewik and his wife, Baulina, and infant daughter - The middle igloo is that of Egigvakah and his wife Ahutudlungva, the south- emmost is used by Ahingualokto, (aima) wife and five children - The incoming of our party of 14 crowded the little dwellings. Baulina had asked for me to stay in her igloo and Peter and Allen stayed there too. Much preparation had been made. The thing that I enjoyed most was boiled tenderloin and sirloin of fujji (a species of seal). This was truly delicious and was particularly palatable after six months of the ship's diet -

Other meats - and there was nothing aside from meat, except good tea and excellent coffee - were frozen narwhal flesh, dried narwhal lean meat which had been soak- ed in narwhal oil (nikkel) and mukt- ta or narwhal skin with the adjoining layer of hard fat. The frozen narwhal and muktta are more or less decayed, but these people thrive on rotten meat and a white man eats it rather than go hungry. In the other igloos they had frozen rotten little auks and ditto duck, but I did not try them, my hunger having been satisfied at the big igloo. He contributed sugar, biscuits, and later in the evening a five pound box of chocolate creams which was much appreciated. Here at Cape York the people are so "wealthy" that they burn narwhal oil in their lamp stores. This gives a clear, brilliant flame with good heating qualities. Dead moss issued

578 for the wick - The women are practica- -larly skillful in managing the wick so as to produce a good flame with- out smoke. Several visitors called in the evening, filling the little glaco really full. Ground plan like the longitudinal section of an acorn and its cup + not more than 13 or perhaps 14 feet in length and breadth. Pete, and Allen slept one on each stone platform while I had the place of honor in the middle of the bed platform which is about 10 feet wide and 6 feet from front to back, rounding at the back. On one side of me were Ahugnotlabaho, wife + boy; on the other Enile, Bauline + infant. 17 January Monday (Written 21st) This had been decided upon in advance as a day of rest and dog-feeding, so we were in no

hurry about getting up - Anyhow there are no regular hours for meals and no regular meals - Even one eats when he is hungry, if there be anything to eat- otherwise he goes hungry - Everyone sleeps when he is sleepy and can get a chance to sleep, either sitting up or lying down - It took me a little time to get used to seeing the frozen section of narwhal in the middle of the floor, with the people grouped around it, one person hacking it to pieces with a small axe and each person cutting off the mouthfuls at his own mouth. But I soon was playing my part at the game - Soon after noon I proposed to Jan- guary to take a walk. We put on our ice- hard sweaters and anoraks and went down to the kumataks for our blanket shirts. Temp. -35° F. I feel the cold somewhat, but not much,

560 and thought that I was all right after getting my blanket shirt on, but we had gone scarcely 100 yards before the cold gripped me like a hand of steel and I was gasping for breath. In fact I collapsed, though I did not faint away. Poor Tank was scared and so was I. He took my arm and steadied me across the ice foot and up 15 the igloo. Then we met Peter who shouted "Why Sir, your nose is freezing" and clapped his hand over the offending member. I could stand no longer, so the men helped me into the snow vestibule entrance of my home where I lay down on some hastily brought skins, while they threw others over me. Allen and Green help- ed - Some one lighted a primus and some one (Green?) gave me whisky. Tank rubbed my hands

I felt all in for a few minutes – how long I do not know exactly – and then began to "come back", but with a terrible feeling of ominous discour- agement regarding the trip. Soon I went into Egingwah's igloo, where I slept for two hours and felt all right when I awoke. On going back to Ahnquro- dableh's igloo, I found Jangwan, Green, Allen and Peter in earnest conference, the subject subject and object of which were soon made apparent. Factful Tane was the spokes- man and he delicately told me that it was their conviction that it would be wholly unwise and more than prob- ably dangerous to myself as well as the party for me to persist in my effort to cross Melville Bay. They felt that I had been "heroic" in my attempts to discharge my duty toward the Museum and the C.R.E. men, but that now I must in- trust my message mission to them.

562 Allen and Peter acquiesced in all that Tausk said and acknowledged that they too were convinced that I ought now to give up my plan. Green was of course of this opinion having previously ad- vised me not to try to make the long sledge journey - In the face of the day's experience and the unanimous voice of my party of trained Arctic travelers there was nothing for me to do but yield to the force of circumstances. If I could not withstand -35° after a good day like yesterday, what might not be the effect upon me of -50° or -55° after a hard day through wind or soft snow- or something else, especially when there would be no warm igloo at hand in which to take refuge and recuperate? It was a bitter pill, but I had to swallow it. Petersaid that Eskimos who saw my collapse were afraid of the probable results of my continuing the trip -

563 The first thing to do was to get Ekfleur or Dr. [illegible] down from the ship and at 8 p.m. Erik and Koludena were started off with letters briefly relating what had happened. Then the even- ing was devoted to discussing the re- vision of plans. Fortunate was it that I had made provisions against the possibility of my staying behind at Upernivik, by preparing certificates and letters for the men. But I did feel sure that I should get to Upernivik! I had not realized the possible effect upon me of six months of ship life and food and the anxiety and worry of the voyage, in combination with my age. It is indeed hard to be forced to consider my age in making plans for field work, but nature's laws are inexorable and cannot be broken with impunity. I told the men to go on with the

564 plan to continue their journey tomorrow - now, but they all refused to consider- this because they would not leave me until either Ek or Hunt should arrive to look out for me. 18 January - Tuesday (Winter 22°) Thick, windy and snowy. Temp.-5° Could not travel safely if party were to start. Continued talk over new plans. Wrote some letters. Ap- pointed Green business manager of the party and bearer of my reports + letters. Gave each man permission to drop out of party if necessary or desira- ble and to proceed by himself, also letters of instructions & guarantees of payments of bills to be incurred. Gave Green request for credit from Governor Win- terboig and $110 American gold - gave Jane and Jerome $100 each. Wrote to Mr. Sherwood. at about 7 h.m. Erik +

Koludena arrived bringing Ekblaw - Dr. Hunt had been called northward to attend an Eskimo who had been severely wounded in the leg by a killing iron. Quick round trip of 23 hours including necessary 2 or 3 hour rest at ship - Koludena stopped at the glacier at Sulek [illegible], to serve as a relay, but Erik came right through on the return just the same. Ekblaw of course greatly regretted occurrence. He had thought that I should get as far as Upernivik. We talked over plans for me to stay in ship or go to Una- nak in acceptance of Peters invita- tion to stay at his house but eat with the C.L.S. men because he had not food enough and could not make full arrangements for me to live there - Acting on Ekblaw's decided advice I decided to stay on board "Cluett" till spring.

566 Conferences and letters used up the whole night and I did not get to bed till 7 a.m. of Wednesday. 19 January, Wednesday. (Written 22°) Another day of bad weather, keeping the party from starting and enabling me to do some more of the ne- cessary writing without feeling that I was delaying the men's journey - Temperature -5°. Snowy, thick. Windy outside the igloo. I was up at 9 o'clock, but later made up some of my sleep. Very hard to work in an igloo with so many people around. 20 January Thursday (Written 22°) Weather colder and clearing. Party decided could start. Temp -15°. No- wind by noon. Finished letters and cables and to N.Y. Tribune, but failed to write to Reeds as intended or to Ros nursing I am sorry to say-.

Sank took my Brunton compass - About 3 p.m. the whole party got away in good shape under the bright light of a moon only one day past the full. There were Green, driving his own kamatik, Janquay as passenger with Harrigan, Allen as passenger with Jatiak, Peter, Rosenauer and Pingasut. Ahngrodobloho and Ohingualokto went along as sup- porting party for one day's march, and Egingwah and Erik as supporters for two days. This insures a good supply of dog food for the crossing of the bay. I started out on Green's kamatik, in- tending to ride a mile or so with him and walk back. Ekblaw came too with Peter. The snow however was soft and eight to twelve inches deep, making the draft too hard for the dogs and promising a hard walk back. Hence after about 200 yards of riding I got off, once more said good bye and good luck to Green and repeated my

568 farewells to the others as we met each other. Ek had not ridden at all and was glad enough to turn back with me. Frank was just about to start as we got back to him. He brought up the man of the party. I gave him one of my kooletah's since he did not have a good spare one. Inadvertently he took the one that Peter had given me, which I had intended to keep on account of the donor; but the one that he left is the one that Mac brought me. It is just as good as Peters and fits me better, hence the exchange is satisfactory. Incidentally Jaur traded blanket shirts with me and I fear that he will not like that exchange so well, for my shirt is rather large for him. And his is small for me! Well the boys have made a good start in beautiful weather though the snow is soft. My, but it was hard to have them go without me.

and I am sure that Janquay and Allen were sorry to leave me behind. Been had advised against my undertaking the trip at all and he has all along wanted to be the messenger and the head of the party if not the only man to go out, hence his position was different from that of the others. He assured me Monday evening that he would be "perfectly satisfied" if I made Janquay the business manager of the party and would serve under him; but Jane and I knew better than that and doubted his loyalty. I knew however that Jane would go under Fitz as leader or business manager provided he (Jane) was given permission to drop out of the party if conditions became unbearable. Hence I gave man the per mission already noted and instructed Fitz to make someone else the messenger in case he himself should be obliged to give up.

570 21 January - Friday (Written 22d) Fine morning. Walked out to the point, a mile or more afternoon. Temp. - 17° . Breezed up after 3 p.m. with a south wind that filled the air with icy snow particles and looked bad for our party for a time. Mock moon effect fine, five mock moons beside the cross and the circles. Wind stopped blowing about six o'clock and the evening was clear and beautiful. Ahngnodoblako came in about 9 p.m. and was followed shortly by Ahngmalakito. The old man said that they encountered so much soft snow that they did not reach Cape Melville on the first march though they passed far beyond Brushnan Island. Snow was too soft for building snow house, Peter used the tent. Ahngnodoblako had not

"571 slept in route and he had driven his dogs through 60 miles of soft snow, but after drinking a cup of tea he went right to work chopping up narwhal meat and bones for his dogs. He took a bite now and then as he worked and carefully saved the mush- to for the family food. What he used was the remains of the section of carcass that has been on the floor of the igloo for the past five days as our meat supply - His wife went out to help him feed the dogs. Then they brought in a frozen seal and stood it up against the wall to thaw. Looked like a ghost! Ah, Hugo dobleho did not get to bed much before midnight. Koludena left this morning at 4 o'clock for North Star Bay via the ship, where he will get a load of supplies for us - He thought that he could not cross Melville Bay after his forced march.

to and from the ship Monday and Tues- day, though he went only 2/3 the way - [Note be entered my service on 13 Jan. but two days are to be subtracted from total on account of the extra trip, for which he has been paid] 22 January. Saturday. a dull thick unpleasant day, but without much wind Temp. - 14° Ahugnodoblaho says that we can start for the Cluett " to- morrow. This pleases SK and me. I like the chance to get well piled up with fresh meat, but life in an ig- loo in winter is not exciting. A week of it is better than a month would be, especially when one cannot speak the language. I thought on Tuesday or Wednesday that a month of fresh meat would do me good, but I think now that I have had enough for the present. Took a walk back & forth

Where the dogs had been lying, the snow be- ing too soft & the light too poor for me to walk elsewhere. Ate frozen seal liver and fat. Quite delicious. Then had boiled meat. Excellent. 23 January - Sunday (Written 24th) Ek came over last evening and staid till midnight, discussing plans and general topics. He gave Barluna a half-sovereign this morning for her baby and later I added a New- foundland 50-cent piece. Naturally, she was much pleased, especially with Ek's gift since he was under no obliga- tions to her. Ahngvold also sleeps in his clothes on one of the stove plat- forms instead of naked as usual on the bed platform. Hence, Erik being absent, all had plenty of room on the bed platform. The boy was naked, the old woman had on only her foxskin trunks, Barluna wore her shirt and trousers as usual, while I slept in my underclothes and rolled up in my blanket as usual. The baby wears a cute little foxskin gar- dment but nothing in the shape of diapers. Their infant, less than a month old, has already been so

574 well trained that she always gives her mother notice in time for the pot to ar- rive before anything happens. Only once during the week that I have been here has there been any trouble and then Bau. lina was too far away or too busy to heed the call in season. Some training? by the way Barlinda seemed to know whether it was pot or breast that was in demand- I did not go to sleep till after 4a-m. and was awakened at 6 by the making of coffee and other preparations for the march, but I had another hour's nap before the call came to make real preparations. At 8 o'clock I ate my breakfast of four hard biscuits and a cup of coffee. There was no meat, Ek and I having consumed the last of the boiled puji last night. The morning was beautiful but not cold - about 50 - and we got started on our journey at about 9:30

on my sad return journey to the ship. Oh, but it does seem hard that I had to give up the crossing of Melville Bay. The weather has been so mild, compara- tively speaking, that it does seem as if I might have been successful - but circumstances certainly were against my continuing the effort. Our shipward party consisted of: Et on Ahnigmaokto's kamatik drawn by nine dogs and myself on Ahug- nodoblaho's kamatik, drawn by eight dogs. We were not heavily laden, having only my baggage, Et's sleeping bag and a supply of dog meat, but we made rather slow progress, the dogs still being jaded from their hard hike Thursday and Friday as the first supporting party. [Written 25th] Occasionally too we met with a patch of soft snow which made the pulling hard for the dogs

576 Daylight has come back to such an extent that we saw only the brightest stars at noon. Temperature - 7° F. Ahruqnodoblahe stopped three times to look at his fox traps, but without finding anything in them. Ahurquaa- colito stopped once I think for the same purpose - There was little or no wind and I was warm, having put on my Kanuk trunks about two hours out from Cape York. We saw one fox and our old friend the Raven, The scattered disposition of the icebergs off Cape York and south thereof as far as we could see, together with the smooth new appearance of the sea ice, indi- cates that there was much open water in Melville Bay when the winter freeze in took place about 12 October. We drove on through the darkness till about 7 o'clock, when we reached Sukken and stopped to make tea and eat bis- cuit and chocolate near the snow igloo or shelter which Koludena

built for himself Monday night - We did not rest long but pushed on without waiting then for the moon - The making of the tea on a primus stove pro- tected from drafts by two blocks of snow formed a picturesque sight. Incidentally, the condensed milk was scorched by putting boiling it into the kettle of water in a frozen lump. Sukkan is just south of Ekbław Glacier and contains three old igloos which are not oc- cupied this winter. The land trail to Par- ker Snow Bay (Jaggisok) leads up over the glacier from Sukkan. We jogged slowly along the front of the glacier and when near its northern point encoun- tered the big lead which we were afraid of. There it was, 20 to 40 feet wide, stretch- ing as far as we could see toward Coniell Rock - Ahnqumalokto turned to the left away from the glacier, though it was evident that Ahnqurodoblak wished to turn toward the glacier. I did

578 not see the reason for going out, because the lead was likely to narrow and might be easily crossable near the glacier, as it was last Sunday when Peter brought us down. Later Ek explained to me that the Eskimos do not like to get very near the front of a glacier for fear of frag- ments of ice which are liable to fall from it. A half mile or more from the gla- cier Ahnqmalokto spied a quadrangular case of ice jammed against both sides of the lead. He jumped off his kama- tik, tested the ice with his testing iron - Ek and he went across the irregular causeway and came back. Then Ek and I went over and were followed by the Eskimos and the kamaitiks. It was interesting to see the intelligent behavior of the dogs in dragging the kamaitiks over. Evidently they were used to that kind of thing. Before we reached the crossing the moon had appeared

S79 above the mountains and we were glad of her light. The night was getting colder and as we neared Parker Snow Point we encountered a keen wind swirling around the promontory. Parker Snow Bay looked beautiful in the moonlight, the going was good and we reached the "Chett" about 11:45 p.m. Temp. -14°. I felt pretty disconsolate as I climbed over the ship's side. I had stood the fourteen hour ride without discomfort, and it did seem as if I might have made the trip across Melville Bay. Norman was on deck in his under-clothing, when he heard the camp-cries come and gave me a cordial welcome back to the ship. Captain Pickels was waked up by our entering the cabin. His welcome was non-committal but he made chocolate and served that with canned tongue and had tack for luncheon to us four. The mate and the chief appeared and welcomed us cordially. Ice at ship 42 inches thick.

580 Gave Ahnquod ablahe a Barlow knife which pleased the old man greatly. 24 January. Monday. (Written 25th) Clear and cloudless. Temp. -17° Slept from 2 to 9 a.m. and from 10:30 a m. to 3:30 p.m. making up for lost time. Boiled my under clothing and shirt this evening and took a bath to get rid of the lice acquired at Cape York. I itched in patches all over my body but Ekblaw could find only one louse on my under shirt last evening whereas he found eight on his own. 25 January Tuesday. Slightly overcast, with low lying clouds in the south. Temp. min - 25°; 9 a. - 25°; noon - 21°; 3½ - ? Did not sleep at all last night- but staid determinedly in bed. Have felt sleepy at times to-day, but would not turn in, to avoid upsetting regular habits. Beat my blankets & flannel shirt from C.Y. hoping to get rid

of undesirable inhabitants while they were frozen. Ekblaw returned to me all the things which I had given to him when I started southward and I gave some of them back to him again. I now have to face a certainty of about eight months more up here and we must hus- tand our resources carefully to provide as well as we can against the possi- bility of another year in the north beyond that. Heavens! Ekblaw, I am thank- ful to say, is insistent upon such conservation. Dr. Hunt has not re- turned yet from his response to the call from the north, but EK feels sure that it is not wise for me to go to Uma- nakka before the last of April or the first of May. Hunt too is a conservationist. If my party made fair time, and it seems reasonable to suppose that they did because the weather apparently has been favorable, they are now (9:30 p.m.) at Cape Seddon and

582 the most dangerous part of their jour- ney is over. Would that I were with them, instead of being obliged to give up my mission and return to the ship defeated! Took four mile walk alone directly after noon. Along middle of bay. Calm most of time but met sudden cold blast about a half mile from ship on return course. Woolen clothing is not much of a protection against the wind and I was glad to reach "Cluett" again at 1:30. Temp. -14°. Wind S.S. and strong all the rest of the afternoon and till about 9 p.m. Then calm for a time. No stars visible at midday, but the thin haze may have hidden them. Brightest could be seen faintly at 1:30. [See p.584] 26 January Wednesday. Overcast and rather thick with flying particles of icy snow.

SB3 Temp. min. - 10 a.-1°; 2 p.-5°; 6 p.-9° Heavy southeasterly wind arose during most of night and is still blowing at noon, rendering day very disagreeable. In spite of the overcast sky the daylight at midday is noticeably on the increase deep after day- The red orange hues along the southern horizon are getting brighter and rising higher - We shall be glad to see the Sun again, though we know that the coldest weather of the winter comes after his return. On board all day. Dull enough life! Wind growing less during evening - H.C.P. says men object to closeness of atmosphere caused by my burning the prismus stove in my cabin and warns me on account of my health. I doubt the sincerity of his solicitude for my health or the noticeable effect on the air of the dining room and other cabins, for my room's air is better than the rest in my opinion, but -

584 there are fewer people about now and I shall be able to get more chances to read and write outside my own cabin now and I am going to give up the primus for a time. 27 January. Thursday. Clear, cloudless morning. Thin clouds began coming up from northwest about noon. Strong, sharp wind came out of north about 3 o'clock and sky cleared again. Temp. min -19°; 9a. -17°; 1p. -9° Ekblaw began packing books, papers to this morning in preparation for his leaving the ship soon for Etah. On his return from Etah he will stop at Umanak. He and I took four mile walk along middle of bay. He seems dubious about coming of steamer next summer, on account of possibility of both Denmark and U.S. being drawn into the war. Could see Arcturus, Vega + Jupiter at midday, but dimly.

588 at 4:45 p. Eginuak, Evik, Bozeman (Ajaqo) and Pingasut's wife ... arrived from Cape York. This means more loads going to Umanak, I am happy to think. Evik brought me a letter from Green written at end of second day's march (21st). Party made 30 miles first day but traveled only five hours second on account of storm setting in. All snow shoeing some of time. He closes "Don't envy our lot; it is a thick and snowy one + too cold for comfort", - but I wish that I were with them, just the same - Oh dear! 6:45 Ahngnadabak came in from Umanak - but Ahingualoto is delayed somewhere on the road. 10 p.m. The wind has died out and the night is beautiful though cold. Taylor got a hare to-day, making two on hand now and giving good pros- pect of a fine rabbit stew for the mess tables.

386 10:45 Ahnqwalokto came in bringing me a cordial kind letter from Captain Cone - He was held up crossing big lead. 28 January. Friday. Clear and calm. Lowlying clouds and water fog in the west. Temp. min.-20°; 9a.-15°; 1p.-17°; 3h.-9° Eginqwah, wife, Bozeman and Pig- asut's wife started for Unnak about 11 o'clock taking last of boxes from the cache. Took five mile walk with Chief Cotton, visiting his fox traps along north shore on way out. Daylight improving rapidly, clear calm and no stars visible at noon. Clouded over by 3 o'clock and temper- ture now to -9° light N.W. wind. Clear calm + colder at 5 o'clock. Rabbit stew for dinner was a great treat and there was plenty of it. Ship's supply of toilet paper exhausted, except for what is al- ready distributed. Could get only 1/4 page from H.C.D.

588 29 January. Saturday. Clear and cloudless. Light N.W. wind in a.m. At 1:30 heavy squall from N. or N.W. lasting less than an hour; Very keen, the temperature rose. Temp. min. -19°; 9a. -6°; 2:00p. +10°; 2:30+4° Lay awake from before 12:30 to after 4 a.m. Seem to be getting into the habit of distressing wake- fulness. Some rheumatic stiffness in hands Considerable numbness of big toes and ends of fingers. Took six mile walk alone, visiting front of southern branch of Cluett glacier and the big snow-drift glacier on south side of bay. Distance from latter to ship in direct line paced off at 2 1/2 miles. Small amount of snow drifted at foot of Cluett glacier advancing it 10-15 yards. Large block of ice has fallen off from overhanging edge of the tongue glacier nearby. On the ice at base of the snowdrift glacier there is a low ridge of 100 feet wide of snow-block debris formed by fragments fallen from this winter's cornice at the top of the vertical front. Eskblaw tells me that he has seen great blocks 15 feet

589. or excuse) If hard packed snow blown off from the cliffs at Saunders Island and carried by the wind a half mile or more out on the ice. Ahugnodablaho & Ahugnalokis started early for Cape York 30 January. Sunday. Somewhat cloudy. Calm. Clear midday + p.m. Temp. min.-20°; 9a.-16° ; 3p.-18° Beautiful day. Strong wind for short time a- bout 5p. m. Ekblaw and I walked out along north shore beyond Black Point, good seven mile jaunt. Went into grotto in gneissoid granite of bluff beyond gulch which Languary and Peter took refuge in a year ago. Triangular entrance 10 ft± high at low water and six or seven feet wide, 50± feet from front to back and 20-25 ft high. Due to frost and water work along a strong joint in a fault zone. A half-mile farther out saw beautiful frost work at entrance to an- other little grotto. Frost evidently formed by con- densation and freezing of moisture rising from

590 the water below a big crack in the ice. Saw Venus, Jupiter and Vega at 1:30 p.m. Dr. Hunt and two Eskimo youths came in about 4 o'clock, having come over from Umanak in less than eight hours. Dr. H. reported ice best he had ever seen it to be for so great a distance. Emenyak (astmy) Aroka (sammik) The mate could not get the thickness of the ice to-day because the ice chisel was lost early in the first week. Chopped with ax through 32" of ice, without seem- ing to get nearly through. 31 January. Monday. Bad storm all day. Heavy N.E. wind. snow: Temp. min.-20°; 9a.-18° ; 1p.-16° Too stormy to permit taking a walk. Dr. Hunt examined me carefully with his stethoscope and pronounced my heart all right organically, but me advised to guard myself against shock from extreme cold and to avoid extreme

591 exertion, always to wear fur clothing in the wind. Thoughts that it would be practicable for me to go to Etah in May, if desirable there. Wrote to Esklaw telling him that I was prepared to go to either Etah or Umanak as soon as it should be prudent for me to leave the ship. My own preference is Umanak, and I assured him of my cooperation with him in scientific and household work and e- economy in case I were to go there to spend the summer and await the coming of the relief ship. In conference with him later he a- gain stated his positive opinion that it wld. be wholly unwise for me to attempt the sledge journey to Etah. He said that even in May the snow would be deep and soft on the Stable glacier and that it would be impossi- ble to get around Cape Parry on the sea ice. He showed me the food schedule for Umanak that he was getting up for U- manak based on known supplies in hand and assured me that there was

592 enough for the reasonable needs of the seven people [himself, Hunt, Comer, myself and our three Eskimos] for six months after reserving something for another winter in case of further detention - i.e. enough of a reserve to keep us going until it will be practicable to sledge to Etah next fall. This supply will be helped out by additions from Etah this spring; by possible additions from Upernivik, by rye flour which Peter has at Umanak and by the fresh meat that is practically sure to be obtained by the spring and summer hunting. Further help is given by his and Minit's absence on the spring trip to Etah till early April and by Egingwahis, Inuk- aho's and my not coming to Umanak until May. Canned peaches for dessert - first from ship stores for 1 February. Tuesday. Clear and calm, or nearly so - NWdyeve. Temp. min -22°; 9a.-21°; noon -19° Halsed out alone along north side

of bay, a tramp of 7+ miles. More bear skin parts by Dr. Hunt's advice but found them over warm with thin woolen drawers underneath. Sammik and Astrup left for Umanak this morning, taking loads with them from the shore caches beyond the point. Egingwah, Erik and Sigdlu came in from Umanak about 7 o'clock. The two for- mers are on their way home to Cape York. Sigdlu has come for a load of things for North Star Bay. 2 February. Wednesday. Clear and cloudless. Calm at ship. Light N.E. wind on plain above head of bay. Temp. min.-2º; 9a.-10º; 11a.-17º; 2p.-22º Egingwah and Erik went on to Cape York. Sigdlu started back to Umanak with a big load of Ekblaw's effects. Dr. Hunt made another careful examina- tion of me this morning. Says that my heart seems to be all right and my ur- ine is likewise O.K. Ekblaw wants an

594 official statement, hence this second examination. Dr. Hents thinks that it would be better for me not to try to piece up or two meals but to eat a luncheon at eight in the evening before going to bed. Dr. Hents and I took a walk on the plains beyond the head of the bay, going nearly to Corner Glacier. About three miles in all. He played half-back on the Bowdoin eleven, when in college. Evening- Dr. Hents' written statement is not quite as favorable as I had expected it to be, and now he, Ekblaw and I have had a conference which has done little to reassure me. He says that my two spells of faintness (27 August and 17 January: see journal) show a temporary heart weakness, which however may recur unless extreme care be taken. My blood pressure is Abnormally high but he sees no cause for this since the acid test shows no albumen in the urine and my arteries seem normal. He

598 advises me 1. To drop all mental work and worry and absolutely loaf during the rest of my stay in the Arctic. 2. To take very moderate exercise, in the open air, in good weather. With the returning light and on favorable days, gentle hill work may be undertaken at a very slow gait and with watchfulness against extreme exertion or dizziness. 3. To avoid exposure to cold by wearing suitable clothing. The cold and general conditions in the Arctic and of this cruise seem to be largely responsible for the acuteness or accentuation of my trouble. 4. To reduce consumption of tobacco to at most two pipefuls daily, preferably after meals. 5. To take a light meal about an hour before bedtime, including a warm drink if possible, in addition to the regular meals.

596 Dr. Hunt says emphatically that I must consider myself an invalid, whether I feel sick or not, and that I must take proper care of myself, if I wish to avoid serious consequences. He and Ekblaw cordially say that they will do all that they can to help me through the ensuing months, both on board the ship and at Unanask. They think that [illegible] weather conditions may permit my going to Unanask by 1 May, certainly by about the middle of that month. They will try to provide some fresh meat for me to eat while I am still on the ship and will send me a case of clam chowder and a can of malted milk to use for my evening luncheons. Dr. Hunt says that I do not look well, even if I do feel well, as I say that I do. I wonder whether I do feel well -- there are some things about my physical condition that have given me a little cause for anxiety -

597 the constant ringing in my head, the frequent coldness and numbness of the ends of my fingers and my big toes, a tremor in my chest over my heart or at the "pit of my stomach" once in awhile. The prospect is disheartening, to say the least, and I had so much that I wanted to do, so many plans that I wanted to work out during the next few years and before the time came for me to retire from active work as the Museum! I cannot help feeling discouraged, but I mean to do my best to follow the doctor's instructions & win out as well as I can. Would that I had been able to persuade President Osborn and Mr. Sherwood that it was not necessary for me to come to Etah last summer, as indeed events have proved that it was not. Dr. Hunt says that I should in all probability not be in my present physical condition had I not come to the Arctic.

598 3 February. Thursday. Slightly hazy, but a fine day nevertheless. Calm at ship. S. wind on ice cap - Light wind at ship in evening. Temp. min. -22°; 9a.-15°; Bf.-15° By Dr. Hunt's advice I slept in my sleep- ing bag last night, with my port hole open. My first night in a bag. I found it light in weight and warm, but I did not sleep much for thinking of the disquieting report on my physical con- dition which I received yesterday from the doctor. Thus I began by disobey- ing his first injunction; not to worry. But it is hard to keep from worrying, in the face of his statements and with at least six months of the Arctic still before me, three of which are cold- usually the coldest of the year. Walked over to the snowdrift glacier and back with Dr. Hunt, a 4 1/5 mile joint. Encountered some wind from the ice cap when we were

599 half way across the bay on our way back. This morning I asked Dr. Hunt if there was danger of my not surviving the winter. He replied "No. Not if you take good care of yourself". I shall be glad when the extremely cold season has passed! 4 February. Friday. Clear, cloudless, calm. Temp. min-16°; 9a-16°; noon-20°, 2h.-18°, 3-20° To-day Dr. Hunt gave me his written statement that, in his opinion as a surgeon, my physical condition is due to my environ- ment plus the strain and worry incident to the trip north. Would that I had stayed south! My second night in the bag was better than the first and I believe that I shall like that manner of sleeping. These two mornings Dr. Hunt himself has come in about 8:45, closed my port and lighted my prinnus stove. In five minutes or so the room has been warm enough for me to get -

600 up and make a hurried toilet for breakfast at nine o'clock. No morning wash since the water is frozen solid, but I take a good wash with warm water the night before, which answers the requirements of ship life very well. Took five mile walk with Cotton the engineer, visiting his fox traps on our way out along the north shore of the bay. He is bitter in his denunciation of Captain Pickels for the condition of the "Chrett" in regard to engine, outfit & food supply and for his failure to ask for supplies and engine parts to be sent up by the Museum relief steamer next summer. Rabbit stew again for dinner this afternoon. Beats canned beef all our of sight. Taylor shot another hare this afternoon and we now have two in reserve. Ineflick skins the animals in return for their "inwards".

5 February. Saturday. Clear, cloudless, calm. (Light N.W. wind out in bay at 2 p. None on mts, according to Dr. Hunt, who was out on an unsuccessful hunt for hares.) Temp. min -24°; 9a.-16°; noon-19° .. Took another five mile walk on the bay with the engineer.. New moon, three days old, visible above the southern mountains. At 5 p.m. the moon, Venus and Jupiter presented a magnificent sight. The earth shine on the moon was particularly bright. This afternoon the engineer called me in- to my cabin and returned two boxes of figs and two packages of dates which he had taken from one of our boxes when it was on the ice beside the ship waiting to be loaded onto the Karnatik (Sajdhis) for Ummarasc. He confessed to Mr. Ek- blaw and the Captain also. The edge is taken off from this confession, how- ever, by the fact that he must have dis-

602 covered to-day or yesterday that his theft of two boxes of candy from our box on the after deck had become known. Ek asked me last night, or this morning, wheth- er I had given or sold the chief any candy, saying that a box of peanut can- dy had been found in the engine room. Of course I had not and I told Ek so. To- day H.C.P. told me that Ben had report- ed to him that there were two boxes of candy in the engine room and that he (H.C.P.) had gone down there and found them concealed behind some of the chief's clothing. The box of chocolates was mostly gone, but only a little had been removed from the box of peanut candy. Too bad that the man should have descended to such petty thievery! The crew are a long distance yet from being hungry. One could easily forgive a hungry man for stealing food to satisfy his needs, but this is pretty small.

603 It is not as small, however, as Mac's trying to appropriate the snow knife that Captain Comer fixed for me (vid. p.542). The mate fixed up another ice chisel today and got 45½ inches for the thickness of the ice. 6 February. Sunday. Clear, cloudless, calm or with occasional light puffs of wind from the north. Temp. min.-23°; 9a.-21°; noon-23°; 2p.-24½° Walked about four miles with Ekblaw on the hills northeast of the igloo, went over to see a snow drift glacier in a shallow valley. The ice of this

604 EK thought at first that there had been a fight between a fox and a rabbit. Looking about as EK was the first to see a dead rabbit lying on the ground. It was the one from which Taylor had shot off the lower jaw a few days ago about two miles from where we found the body. The rabbit had run a long distance in that terribly wounded condition. I looked for fox tracks and finding none we con- cluded that the disturbed condition of the snow was caused by the death throes of poor bunny. EK carried the carcass back to the ship for our larder. 7 February Monday. Overcast and thick all day. Heavy S.W. wind., bad on ice cap. Some snow. Evening (8 p.m.) moon and brighter stars visible, but low- er air thick with flying snow. Miserable weather. Temp. min -24°; 9a.-13°; noon -12° Onboard all day. The weather nor

605 "good" enough for me to walk out in. Too disagree- able for anybody to venture far. The primus stove which Elk got from me and gave to Inetliak is out of order, having gotten clogged up with soot. Elk and the chief worked over it all last evening and this morning but could not make it work properly. Too bad, because the family is in dire straits, being entirely without fuel and therefore without either lights or heat in their igloo. Inetliak even shows the effects, though she keeps up her course remarkably well. Her devotion to Pudthak and their family is as beautiful as anything that one could find in a so-called civilized, Christian community. Later. I have let Elk have my primus to loan to Inetliak until we can get hers repaired and he is letting me have his for tonight. H.C.P. took the stove over to the igloo, together with some lard for the Eskimo stove. He reported the igloo frosted inside and dreadfully cold and dismal,

606 with only the least bit of a light in it. Her- liak was delighted enough when she saw the primus that would work. The land, which she called "legualk" (seal), would burn fairly well in her stone stove. 8 February. Tuesday. Somewhat overcast a.m., clearing overhead about noon, stratus clouds along horizon. Calm or nearly so. S. wind still blowing on ice cap. Clouded over again evening but clear at 6 p.m. & after. Temp. Min. -15°; 9a.-15°; noon-14° Walked out along north side of bay with Dr. Hunt and Mate Davis, but I turned back at point 3½ miles from ship on ac- count of windy appearance of ice cap. Saw sun at noon for a half hour, with ¾ of disc a- bove horizon at maximum. Cloudy and hazy but could easily make out the disc. Just 14 weeks since last I saw him, and 97 days since Eck and Mate Davis saw him. Took flashlight photo of cabin with 3A.

607 w. Ek and Dr. Hunt at table. Dr. Hunt then took one with Ek and me at the table. Ek and Charlie were on top of the mountain back of the big gulch. Ek saw a big lead running seaward from the Petowik Glacier. This may be what is delaying Sigdel. chess with Charlie. My first game in many years. 9 February. Wednesday. Overcast and thick a.m. with strong S. wind making it disagreeable. Clearing at noon afternoon and evening clear and fine, calm or w. light N. E. wind. Temp. min -16°; 9a. -10°; noon-10°; 2p. -9° 3 p. -17°. N.E. wind betw. 2 & 3 p. caused drop. About 2 p. m. went out to lead of bay with Dr. Hunt. Encountered rather light but keen N.E. wind which soon induced us to return to ship, where he stopped. I continued my walk 1½ mi. along north shore where I met Ekblaw and the chief and returned to ship with them. No wind in lee of cliffs. Chess with Dr. H. Entering work on reps to President Osborn. Chess with Charlie.

608 10 February. Thursday. Cloudy and overcast. Occasional light wind from the south. Min.-18°; 9a.-8°; 1:30p.-10° Out with Ekblaw up valley in south side of bay abreast of schooners. Interesting snow drift lower part of which is ice crosses side valley as a sharp ridge. Compacted snow is very tenaciously cohesive, cornice six inches thick would support Ek's weight. Very basic igneous rock containing much magnetite has been eroded in formation of this valley. Valley heads in circular amphitheatre with vertical walls + waterfall beyond which is a short continu- ation of the valley ending in great snow cornice. Flaking of the black rocks by changes of tempera-ture interesting. Dr Hunt pricked blister in the ball of my right foot. Mate got ptarrigan 11 February - Friday. Overcast + thick. Light S wind + calm Temp. min-12°; 9a.-10°; noon-9°; 9h.-2°

609 Storm seems to be coming. Ben saw 14 bars and got two. Ralph got a stannigan. The boys are making shot from lead which they cut into cubes and then roll into spheres as well as they can. On board all day nursing my foot, except for a half-hour's walk alone this afternoon. Played chess and pinochle and worked awhile on my second report to President Osborn, also read some in Barnaby Ridge. Hard work trying to rest and follow Dr. Hunt's advice. Cracks are appearing in store above the copper band which the chief put on about six weeks ago. Poor prospects for the old store. 12 February. Saturday. Overcast + thick. Lt. snow. S. wind, variable. Temp. min -12°; 9a. +8°; noon +8°; 3p. +4° Ice 38½ Out for 4+ mi. walk with Eckblaw. Went on ice foot along north shore for a mile. Ice shows blue in the deep cracks. Steep shore

610 like that of most of this bay has narrow, uneven ice foot. He found a small garnet in the chloritic mica schist. We saw fine large blue fox on tales slope. He stopped running from us to dig in the snow, probably at one of his caches. The foxes cache birds, mostly auklets, in the summer for winter use. 13 February. Sunday. Overcast + somewhat thick a.m. Moderate S. Wind Temp. min -3°; 9a. -3°; 3p. -8° Last evening the difference between the wind at the ship and that on the ice cap was shown with particular distinctness, the clouds driving northward over the cap while the wind at the ship was keen from N.E. Air rolls down the glaciers and out through the fjord. Wind is deflect- ed from its true course by the steep, high cliffs. Wind continued so strong during the day that I stayed on board by Dr. Hunt's advice Worked on report to H.F.O.

100231701 Mr. N. Bobbin, Belle Farm, N.Y. Go there and have fun.

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