Henry Alfred Alford Nicholls diary

HARVARD UNIVERSITY THE BIOLOGICAL LABORATORIES 16 DIVINITY AVENUE CAMBRIDGE 38, MASSACHUSETTS Diary of Dr. H. A. Nicholls of Dominica, B.W.I. Contents: a report-diary of excursions through Lesser Antilles from Tobago to Dominica on a survey of the prevalence of yaws, Dr. Nicholl's speciality. Includes comments on the customs, botany, zoology and history of the area by this naturalist. Dr. Nicholl(s is credited with the discovery of the Boiling Lake in Dominica; has a mountain and a parrot named for him. He was a correspondent of the botanists and gardeners of the area and supplied stock for the replanting of the St. Vincent botanical garden when it was reactivated. He should be given credit for introducing many of the ornamentals now common in the Windward Islands. He was on the regular distribution list for seeds and plants from Kew. Diary is a gift of his daughter, Miss Magie Nicholls R. A. Howard 1951

Tobago. May Wednesday, 1891. Learn today for Grenada via Trinidad. Get up early to pack, an awful job after having stayed five weeks in Aspley and got everything lying about in all directions. When half way through I am cursing myself with perspiration, and then a happy thought comes across me. Why not get into a pyjama sleeping suit! Do it, and then packing is easier. Call in servants to help after my back feels 2 parts broken. And then I replenish my pipe and sit down in my deck chair and look on comfortably while I sweat at it. At last the thing is done, thank goodness. And get my last breakfast in Tobago. Afterwards go to bid good-by to Mr. Elliott, the Commissioner, and the Tulloch's. The Tulloch's with whom I have been on most friendly terms are very sorry I am going. Mrs. kisses her hand to me as I leave the table, and hurrys back a little watering. She is a warm-hearted fresh woman, her maiden name being - Culh but, being poor Loren. Off to the steamer about 2 p.m. In the 'Ek', and Captain Porter and the other officers, give me hearty welcome. Later on three shoals of people come aboard to bid me good-bye - black white coloured. I have become popular in Tobago.

2 Tobago. 6 May 1891. all classes of the population, and I. am very much liked, so we received quite an ovation. Mr Smart, who was going back to Sweden with under my care, is quite astonished with the number of my friends, as evidenced by the very firm & hand-shakings of numerous people. It was a fine night, and fun, which until late. 7 May 1891. Thursday. Arrived in Trinidad some after midnight, but I did not wake up until 6 when I had my bath and came on deck. Remained on the boat until after breakfast when I went ashore. We took a carriage & did some shopping and then fetched up at Wilpenbeck. We were pleased to see again, and fill the sails with true full of joy. This "Oh! Sir, please Sir, you're come back Doctor please Sir" In accordance of the greetings of his welcome. He had just married and his old father, a white haired man looking old upon acting as a friend writer. I made particular inquiries as to Gill's happiness and asked after his wife's health, much to his evident satisfaction. Telephoned From the hotel I telephoned up to the Stollmeyers and Mrs S said he would call for us in an hour. He came in due course, and left his carriage with

"Sunday" May, 1891 me so that I might make any calls I wanted to. Mrs. Bris said I must see Mrs. first, and that I am to call for my pretty little friend May Cumming and take her on with me to the breen. This May is very pleased to come— she old Misses Finch in Dominica on her parents—and she came on with her pretty smiling face and sprightly conversation making her a very pleasant companion. Mr. Hollweys is, as usual, very kind. She gave me a glass oficed milk as her husband, being a tea-total fanatic, will not allow even light wines to be in the house. After noting from home I went on the carriage bree old Glenrich, but he was not at home so left a card and then went to the ice house where I landed. Afterward, I went aboard the steamer. Miss Marcell Brantton, a very lady staying in Trinidad who had been met often, for going back to England. & Mr. Fitzpatrick her chapman put her under my charge as far as prevaded then I am to hand her on to Captain Parkes. The Captain is good enough to slow down the boat in order that we might see the Breen in daylight. So, after dinner, Miss & I went on to the bridge and we had a magnificent sight of the Breen.

Trinidad May 1891 and the islands and the mainland of South America, the mountains of which towering up to the skies, fill away inwards, the spit of land running into the Gulf of Paria, and a wide expanse of Sea, La Boca Grande, departing the Venezuelan territory at this point from the island of Chacra care which is English soil -- we passed through the Boca Hermosa, and the big ship moved daily against the strong current which has dashed so many sailing vessels against the high cliffs close to us on her left side. The Captain himself him took the wheel, and he looked on in the st silence that is akin to awe on the magnificent scene -- soon the comparatively still atmosphere we left behind, and the strong inspirating Atlantic breeze swept past us, and there was an end to the heat and the deliverance hot and and depressing Trinidad atmosphere. Later on when we got fairly away from land the ladies dropped off one by one and two by two, and Miss Breamton went to her cabin, for the ship began to roll and pitch, and the ladies said they were tired, but it was a peculiar fatigue that dimmed the lustre of the eye, depressed the spirits, and made the countenance to turn of a penurious white colour!

Grenada 8 May 1897. Arrived Friday. Arrived at Grenada at daybreak, I on deck by 6am, and Miss Brunton up to see the last of me as she had passed one night the world do. My little son brought down by the Private Secretary, Mr Hunter, to say that the police boat would take us ashore, and that the Governor's carriage would be waiting for me at the wharf. Our luggage was taken charge of by Seybert, and by the Governor's order it has not been moved. Sir Walter Kelly Hutchinson and his ladyship gave me a hearty welcome, and I had a very fine room with a dressing room allotted home. Writing table was also placed in the bed room, and another writing table was placed at my disposal in the Governor's private office. Lady Kelly has two fine little boys, Christopher & Maurice. Christopher is about 6 and Maurice 4. They are dear little fellows. They address their parents as "Mother, dear" & "Father, dear" and their speech and manners are very pretty. We were soon friends, and they both send me a saying good night. One or two writing at my table in this bedroom's room, Christopher passed & said "Excuse me pursuing you Dutiables; I hope I am not disturbing you in the least." Said so, my boy, like to see you

6 Grenada. 8 May 1891 joining me," which appeared to please the little fellow. The boys' nurse, Lizzie, is a fresh and looking bright maid, and the children are very fond of her. Their mother idolizes them, and I fear as too couple of them. As I told her, and as she admitted, saying "She knew them was a fool about them but could not help it. In Malta is a splendid host. He biffed me frankly to do just as I liked, and to go and come when I liked. Making him certain it is permitted to smoke in the reception hall which opened on the balcony. He said, "my dear fellow, you can smoke anywhere in this house, except in her ladyship's bedroom!" I dined at 1 o'clock, and then went to the library. The servants introduced me to Mr. Drayton, the Col. Secretary, and Drayton went with the Club to dinner and got me down as Honorary member. I then called on Dr. Orpin, the Colonial Surgeon, who was out, and then drove to Dr. Boyd, the resident surgeon of the hospital. Boyd is a capital fellow & he took us round the hospital, which is one of the old baracks at Fatima. Everything appears to be in excellent order, and Dr. Boyd was told is an excellent surgeon. Afterwards drove to the Club and met Orpin and Mr. Miller. 7 Grenada 8 May 1891 Captain Hunt, who owns the Richmond Estate in Trinidad, and his two pieces, the Misses Hale, dined with me, or did Mr. Nixon Schools & Mrs. Schools is the Attorney General and he is a large land owner in Grenada. 9 May 1891 Saturday. This morning called on Orpin, the Colonial Surgeon who was out, and then went into Boyd, the Resident did. Officer of the hospital. He has a nice house at the Fort, close by the hospital. The house is specially built for him. Mrs. very friendly and Mr. D. are most pleasant. At 1 I sat down in the gallery and had chat and smoke, and later on Orpin came in. After a time we all went round the general hospital and the poor hospital. The general hospital is large one and in capital order. Dr. Boyd was especially kind in his manner to the patients, and they all seemed to be very fond of him. He has a nice manner with the poor people. The poor hospital is between the general hospital and the sea. In fact it is only a little boat away from the sea shore, and the patients are thus enabled to get good sea bathing. There were about 25 patients, mostly children. and all doing well except one chronic relapsing case, an aged white woman. Dr. Orpin & Boyd often get even pleasure.

8. Grenada (Water) 9 May 1891. To write down we came to town and we called at the Fort Office. While the Governor was attending to his duties, Mr. Edward Dayton, the Acting Colonial Secretary, introduced me to the Club, which is very comfortable and creditable to the Colony. He sent for Mr. Shaw, a merchant, to accede my nomination as a Member. Afterwards went back with him to the Fort Office. Found Mr. Walton and we then called at the Bank where I inspected collection of orchids. Mr. is firmly manager of the Trinidad Branch of the Colonial Bank, and he made a magnificent collection of orchids in that island. Probably the finest collection in the tropics. The collector sent to Caracas and up the Orinoco by the London florists used to do their own money business through the Col. Bank and was challenged by acts of kindness to them we enabled to secure from them specimens of their best kinds. Mr. has lately been transferred to the Grenada Branch of the Bank and he has brought over most of his orchids. Many boxes are still unpacked and he told us that it would take weeks to get them all out and re-blocked. Certainly he had plants in flowers of many rare and valuable kinds, made it a real treat to them. This afternoon the Governor I had a tripide one by road of the Morugi District: leaving Government House we rode 9 Grenada 9 May 1891. down a new road to the Vale of Tempe, and then we rode up and down several small valleys, and inspected the works of construction of the roads that are going on. In all these valleys we saw small thriving cocoa and nutmeg plantations (that is belonging to the coloured present proprietor). Every where, industry and mutual prosperity were visible. The homes of the people, of the poor class or the labourers of other islands, were well-constructed and of plain trips. Each land its own dark wooden, and all was painted. Round the house in most instances, was a fully flower garden, and some had out offices such as stable, kitchen &c. Very Caracas had established this beautifully, satisfactory state of affairs, and possible in no other West Indian island are the blacks more prosperous than in Grenada. Here and there we could come across homes of larger and more pretentious character, but they were inhabited by the same class of people. Mr. Walton has quite enthusiastic about the property of the people, and like a good rule he seemed happy in seeing the face of the country covered with thriving small plantations. After leaving the valley, we rode one that over up the main road across the island to traverse the second time. This is

10 9 May 1891. Grenada. A fine macadamised road and it passes by the Grand Crag, a circular lake in the centre of the island nearly 200 feet above the sea. We then turned back, passed through long valleys called Vine Grove, all the towns of which looked new with their bright paint, and then round on to the hills through rather an dry district & came out into the lee and road about 4 miles to the north of the town. We then broke into a pull up and down like the wind up and down hill over many things. We saw both well mounted sand I felt extremely exhausted. Then we had such a slow army gallop for along time. When we got to the confines of the town, instead of passing through the streets, we turned up a valley and found through some flat land destroyed for a park in honour of the Queen's jubilee. And little or nothing has been done to create a park, and the coarse part of the land is full of land crabs holes. Cricket is played at the upper part of the land when the crabs do not honey cross the ground. After a while we struck aside and rode up a crooked path and came out at the back of Gov House. After tea return, I felt and drove along another 'join' in my bed room in dark hills. The dressing 11 9 May 1891 Grenada. room opens up by a door into my bed room & the dining room open and we have a chat whilst dressing. 10th May, 1891. Sunday. We went to the Anglican Church in the morning. The carriage being rather tightly packed. Then had Sir Austin St John the Bishop, Rt Revd, Dr Christopher, Lippin the Dean &c. The Church is a fine old building for the service we dwelled though by an ancient person, and a dark coloured curate. The singing was not good, and the printing of the chants and psalms terrible. The sermon was long and I did not listen to it. The clergyman who was acting for Archdeacon Hutton, the Rector of the parish, has a pension from the Vicarage East. His name was Cornwall he was formerly stationed in the little island of Bequia to the South of Grenada. In the afternoon 10 to 5 I sat down at Government House, and listened to dinner. Before dinner, however, we had a walk all around the grounds of Govt Hse, and found Sir Walter once again in love pruning his trees. 11th May 1891 Monday. The view from my bed room window is magnificent. The land me looking Grand the West.

Grenada 11 May, 1891 take in nearly the whole of the Carriago - as the harbor is called. The mtn. Carriago is an open bay but with fair anchorage, and a narrow channel leads to the inner carriago which is a fair large land-locked bay; away to the south is another large basin called the Cayron or coral [illegible] prevent the entry of ships aboard. From my windows this Cayron looks like a magnificent lake, and the whole scene is one of the finest sights in the tropics. In the morning I work at your business, but being half an hour ago, I believe I would stop writing to have a smoke and chat. My writing table is in an ugly evil place, and altogether I am very comfortable. Seipnet, who is staying at the hotel, comes up every morning in order that I may set him to work to give him instructions. In the afternoon the Grenada, Hunter T.J. into the Court House to elect an lawyer Mr. Murray of Trinidad on the fruit trade. Mr. M. gave a fairly good address, but he knew nothing of the culti- tivation and very properly he confined his attention to the commercial part of the question. He makes a few mistakes however, and in a short speech I print-

Grenada. 13 11 May, 1891. out a few. The report present projects was very amusing tonight in consequence of the absurd questions he asked the lecturer, the Governor - who presided - having also invited them present to put questions to the Lecturer. Mr. Donovan, a dark colored sulky looking man, the Editor of a radical newspaper called the Canada People's Voice tried to start a discussion on the question of the Government subsidy to the Levi of fruit streams running to the State with the object of discrediting the Government. But Sir Walter very properly intervened as Chairman and stopped the discussion as it was foreign to the purpose for which the meeting was called, and a Mr. [illegible] was persistent - the Governor had to ask him to sit down. 12 May, 1891. Tuesday. This morning Sir Walter and I rode down to the Botanic Garden, and she went on the Garden walk with Dr Smith, the Curator. Smith, who has had no special training for the work, was sent out to St Vincent by the joint Committee of the Royal Society and British Association formed for the purpose of investigating the fauna and flora of the Lesser Antilles. Smith did not take in St Vincent for the Committee, and when Mr. Murray, the junior Curator, our made to resign, he was appointed.

14 Grenada 12 May, 1891 on probation. He appears to be a hard working and enthusiastic young fellow, and he has done good work in the Garden and taught himself a good deal con- cerning cultivation and propagation of plants. The Garden is a very pretty one, and there are a good many valuable plants in it. I selected a lot of plants to go to Dominica. Mail came in at 3 p.m. from St Kitts, and I could ting but come to read Mannis to the letters. Some people from the steamer came up to get home to dinn. We dined alike and did not hear, as those from the steamer might have felt awkward. Indeed the Governor told me that on Sunday and mail day, he observed the rule not to dine for dinner. after dinner, when the guests had gone, the Governor and I had a long talk. 13 May, 1891 Wednesday. Writing & looking up your papers all through the morning. The Governor showed me all the correspondence concerning the Whiskey patent. In the face of the finding of the Council's the Governor could not have acted differently than he did. He also showed me a long and interesting confidential despatch to the Secretary of State concerning his scheme.

Canada. 13 May, 1891 for settling the Richmond Valley in St Vincent, along interior valley that is practically discovered by Mr Hubert Smith, another Collector who is in Canada. The scheme is an excellent one but, as the Government pay very poorly, it required a good man to carry it out, and he could not depend on Captain Maling the Admiral of St Vincent. In the afternoon rode into town on her ladyship's mare—a nice little animal. Called to see how Seymour was getting on at the hotel, and then went over Boyd at the hospital. Mrs Boyd is very nice and she gave me a fine orchid. Later got back to God Town or then for a tennis party. Beyond the Misses Hale—some visitors. There are no good looking ladies except, perhaps, Mr Charles—a daughter of the late Mr. Reid of St Kitts. Today Ogilvie and Danangar on trip through the island—and went out to town. He has got a horse farm. 14 May, 1891 Thursday. Left God Town early in the morning but not Ogilvie coming up to meet me. The horse I got for me is rather jumpy, but suppose he will soon come down as,

Canada 14 May, 1891. We have one hundred miles ride before us. We rode through the upper town and then, passing down a steep HARD hill we came to the lower town, went through the market, and got to the Court Road. The houses in St. Georges, Canada, are very substantially built of stone, and they have therefore a much more solid look than those of other West Indian towns. They are in marked contrast to the individual homes, which are mostly of wood, and have somewhat of a tidy appearance with their profuse woodwork decoration. The road along which we rode was very well made and in excellent order. Of late years an immense sum of money, for so small an island, has been spent on the roads. About 5 miles out & below the city med. office, there is a coloured man like Orgeus, met us. He was very nice and evidently a thoroughly good fellow. We visited the villages en route, but could not find any yam casks, as the people are inclined to hide them and Orgeus misled giving information, for they do not like their relations to go to the hospital. At Orgeus we visited the village school. There were 104 children present, all of whom appeared to be healthy and intelligent. Most of them were well dressed showing that their parents shown labourers or peasant proprietors.

Grenada. 14 May 1851 will off. The master named his system of true hey and then made the children sing God save the Queen. All the schools in Grenada are mixed, but the Master informed them that it was the intention of the Govt later on to have separate schools for the sexes. On leaving the school we rode a long distance right up to the head of the Concas Valley until we came to a low, but very fine waterfall. The road is very bad in places, but it was being repaired. The whole valley is one mass of cacao, and I was told that about 2000 bags was the crop. All the cacao belonged to small proprietors, and most of them were peasant proprietors. A good deal of the cultivation is bad, however, and many of the trees are dying away to want of manure and tillage: When a proper system of watering be adopted on their estates, the cultivation will pay out before very long. We passed a fine after which left the valley. school-house built by the Govt which my family still attended, but owing to the action of the R. C. Priest most of the children had been withdrawn. The Priest had opened an opposite school in a little hut which was crowded with children of both sexes, in which proper tuition was in consequence impossible. I saw,

18 Grenada. 14 May, 1891, sad to see a fine building like the school house aban- doned in this manner. We reached Carayou in time for lunch and were hospitably entertained by D. Laboue. After lunch we rode to Delvidere, Colmd Duncan's celebrated nutmeg estate along a fine road which comes the ward to Grenville. Cacao seems to be everywhere and amongst the cacao, young nutmegs were planted. The nutmegs here grow very well under the shade of cacao, and on lands where the cacao appears to be giving out, nutmegs are usually planted. I find many small birds flit about, but the myna-bird which has become naturalised has cleared off a lot. One bird—a wea—called the 'Gold-bird' has a very fine song—and I often heard it whilst I was at East Ho. On reaching Delvidere, we were struck with the immense quantity of nutmeg trees, running through the wide valley and up the hillside in straight lines. There are in all 40,000 about, and nuts are beginning to bear. In fact some small trees were so loaded with fruit that they had to be propped up with bamboo to prevent them heaving. The scene from the Marapou house is wonderful. I

Trinidad relieved. December 1891. Friday. Said farewell to St. Lucie and left for Guyana at 7 am. We came through the town of Grand Paroisse, called since the Queen's Jubilee 'Victoria', but more generally known by the former name. In this town, as at St. Guoyane there are two two fine churches side by side, one the Anglican and the other the Roman Catholic. Here at the Police Station the Sergeant in charge stopped us and said he had received a telephonic message from S. Bennett - with whom we were to have stayed, that he could not put us up as much as his wife had probably presented him with a brand new baby. Upon therefore telephoned to the Sergeant at Pontecaux telling him to inform Mr. Hon. Douglas Alexander, at Spruce bank, that we should claim his hospitality for the night. Beyond Victoria we passed by a fine cacao estate belonging to Mr. Ross, who had recently left for Europe. We rode into the yard to see the Cacao drying house etc. In hot weather the Cacao dried in a home through which pass a series of pipes low connected a furnace, so that hot air and flame heat up the pipes and thereby dry the produce. The 'boncan' has a series of trays, running on wheels, on which the cacao is sun dried. In the packing house there were large quantities dried of cacao, and some tobacco being pressed into cakes. Mr. Ross

22 15 May, 1891. Grenada has cultivated tobacco for some time, and that [illegible] is very good. We reached the town of Sans Pareil at 10 a.m. The two churches were there side by side on a hill overlooking the lower town. The R.C. Church was close by the Morn Sans Pareil so called from the fact that, during the Civil war, the [illegible] were drawn to the edge of this high cliff and many leaped over and were dashed to pieces on the rocks too far a mile below. We rested for a time in the Civic Court House, and learnt from the Captain of Police that the telephonic message had gone out to Mr. Alexander. Afterwards we went to the school house, and were much pleased with the bright and healthy look of the children. The schoolmaster asked us to examine the children, and before gave them some things to read. A class was formed half of boys and half of girls, and all read fairly well the girls, however, beating the boys. After the reading I examined them on the meaning of the words they pronounced so glibly, and found that they had written dictionaries of many of the words. 'Thrift' which occurred in one of the passages read, was described to be as 'to go quickly' by one child, and as part of a ship by another. I then gave the children a short address on thrift and spoke in a simple way so as bringing home to them the

Grenada 15 May, 1891. advantage of thrift habits. Cwm Gwilt, the Austrian Chapman, who is the Superintendent of the school, and I tinto a note in the visitors book, advising that the children should be taught the meaning of the word 'fear' road. After having Santinus we called on Mr J Bennett, very nice fellow, who volunteers as St lunch. He is an amateur photographer and he showed me some of his photos which are very well taken. He has a small South American monkey which is a charming little fellow, and he gave me a capital photograph behind taken of it. He is a bit of a naturalist, and he has a collection of his insects. The 'Chiguan' he told me is called the 'Four and twenty hours' Spider because its bite is very powerful for that time, and that the 'Thermos', or 'walking stick insect', is called the 'God-home'. In Dominica it is called 'Cherel bon Dieu'. On the Monli Estate, near his home, he had often seen a white 'black bird' (Cryptophagus Auri). Albinos in birds are very rare, and it is a pity this one cannot be secured for the British Museum. He also told me that C. Auri, called the 'Cobean' in Grenada, was not seen in the island until after the last hurricane some 36 years ago, and that Mr Wells states that it was blown to Grenada from Tobago during the hurricane.

24 Canada 15 May, 1891. He reaches Springbank at about 5 p.m., and was welcomed by Mr Alexander. The house is a very nice, commodious one, and the grounds about are very pretty. Behind the house is a tennis lawn, and once a week then is a tennis party at Springbank. My bedroom is a nice cool one, and it looks out on the tennis lawn. Mr Alexander is very pleasant, and Ellis A. is a charming young lady. On the dinner table, the centre piece was a magnificent silver cup, which for the Gournis Cup won several years ago at the Barbados races by one of Mr. Alexander's horses. He used proudly to go in for horse racing, but he has now given it up. He still has some fine fellows in his stable. After dinner Ellis A. played fours, and then recited. Her rendering of the 'Inchcape Rock' was really excellent, and I told her truthfully that she had the rare gift of winning an audience. In the afternoon I took a walk through the plantation which is only 17 acres and yet contains about 700 or 800 cocoa trees. A better when than from most estates. On a general average from 4 to 5 bags in all that can be expected. After I had long talk about cacao cultivation. He prunes his trees judiciously and does not chop off his branches, so as to throw back on vigorous growth. He also forks up between the trees, and applies manure, the result being that his trees look healthy and

Grenada. 15 May, 1891 more signs than most of I occur in the island. 16 May, '91, Saturday. After a splendid bath and racy breakfast, O.T.S go on outwards again. He visit Mount Rich an estate belonging to a Mr Kent. Mt Rich is not far from Spring bank and it is a very fine cocoa property. Formerly a sugar estate, and some sugar is still made, but it is a black stuff used for consumption in the island and thus it sells well. Old K told me that the dark sugar was liked better by the people, and therefore sold better. Kent is an "educated old fellow." He formerly owned on this very estate he now owns, and has become very rich. His character, I hear, is not held in high estimation, and he has made much of his money in a shady manner. His house is old, in ill repair and dirt, and his speech betrays his low origin. Outside his home is a magnificent Java plum tree, and I collected seeds for Dominica. The old man has some very fine Carib stone implements, and it is undoubtedly in former days a Carib settlement for very many implements have been found there. Old Kent would not part with his implements, so I sketched some of them.

Grenada 16 May, 1891. That Patholo river runs through Mt. Rich in a direction almost due north. Close to the river is a cave, on the left bank is a Carst Superficial stone 7 feet high, 10 ft long and about 16 fathoms. The shape is irregular, and the river has so undermined it, that it may soon topple over. The rude inscriptions on it are very peculiar, and stark sketches of them. Thus: There were as good many rude faces as No. 1 on various parts of the rock but I saw only one cross, and one like No. 3. Then there several figures somewhat like No. 4. The dimensions were as follows. No. 1. About 3 span broad. Eyes about 3 ins distant. No. 2. About same size. No. 3. From span broad 1½ span high. No. 4. From span high by one span broad. No. 5. Two span long. After leaving Mount Rich we came to his cultivated country and passed through abandoned estates. The Grenada. 16 May, 1891. land being open to the high winds from the East is unsuited to Cacao, and thus the people are less prosperous in this district. We rode up a hill below our camp called the Observatory. And still called so, as there was a very fine view over the whole land of the island with some 4 miles away across the sea. One little island close to shore, is the celebrated Green Island on which Norman Lockyer stationed himself to observe the transit of Venus in it --. The country and the estate surrounding the house belongs to Mr. James Pointe Memo, the district magistrate. He was not at home so Mrs Memo received us in a very friendly way, and her husband soon came in and entertained us right royally. After lunch we rode on to St Andrew by what is called the middle road, and which bound inland. The coast road is much hotter and longer. These roads are unpaved and quite flat. Carriages can be, and are, used in this district. We called on Mr. George Williamson at Grand Brea a fine sugar estate near to the town Grenville, and he, who is a pleasant fellow-man – needs not kindly. He put me in mind of Mr Hedman at St. Lucia we met at his house a Mr Lamotte who left Dominica many years ago, and who is now an rich planter. We

28 Grenada. 16 May, 1891. Cacao estates on the south side of the island. In the high winds laden with saline particles from the Atlantic sweep over the coast lands of the eastern mainland and side of these islands, cacao cannot be from success in the sheltered valleys. So that in the windward districts of Grenada there is more organ than cacao produced. The greater part of the sugar made is consumed locally, and so there is a heavy import duty; the sugar farmers are practically enjoying a bounty on production and they can grow ryan caves and manufacture sugar at a respectable profit. Messrs Williamson and Lamother rode with us into Grenville the second town of the island. This is charming into which people can come, and there is some shipping trade in consequence but outside is a dangerous reef with a massive opening and navigation therefore of this spot is somewhat dangerous. The coasting steamers from St George's come in here once a week to the great convenience of the inhabitants. Grenville is more of an business centre; for as the place is extremely unhealthy, most persons who are able take to live on the surrounding hills and what is a pretty sight to see the residences of the planters. Professional men stockkeepers on the hilly slopes that lead up to the central range of mountains that pass through the island. Here one can the 2 churches side by side as in the town elsewhere 29 Grenada 16 May, 1891. But the R.C. Priests and American clergymen do nothing in the town. As an evidence of the importance of the business done in Grenville it may be mentioned that the Colonial Bank have an agency in the Town. Just through the market which was then in full swing. It is an interesting and busy scene and strongly West Indian. The black and coloured people in bright clothing are heard at work calling vegetables, fruits etc. The shouting, calling tree deafening, and the particularizing was most amusing. Built some difficulty we rode through the crowd into the yard of the fine Court House recently built. Besides the courtroom if anything, more than in the market for the public under debt was praying off road labourers and hundreds of people were listening about until it is turn come to get their case. The place to concur to visit the Court House, we were to see Mr Potts, the agent of the Col. Bank as his star but he was unfortunately out - we only saw his son who heard did all the Bank business. Later we met the Hon. Dr. Hayford who invited us to dinner in the morning. The Hon. Mr Williamson wanted us to stay with him, but we were due at Dr. Lamy's at Richmond so we rode on after some delay.

30 Guiana. 16 May, 1891. We arrived at Richmond which is really a cacao and nutmeg estate belonging to Dr. Long. The Dr. Middleff was received kindly by the Dr. this wife and eldest daughter. Long has a very large family, and his eldest son has just come out from home. I was hospitably entertained by our captain, and we were treated by the long ride in the sun returned tiredly. O! I had to occupy the bedroom and he wanted arms taking the state bed whilst he took a cold bath by the way he broke down during the night as he is a heavy man. In the morning I saw him lying on half with floor and he told me he felt something for ever but there too tired to find out what it was! We were rudely occupying Ellen Long's room and joy both redbrick and green cracking about the walls tables. And inspired two very fine cards implement which Dr. Long in the morning presented me the look. Hearts five is true she stole is from his daughter, but as a true collector I took it gratefully. Mr. Long is an old friend of the Maguin and she asked me alot about them. 17 May, 1891. Sunday. After a farewell to Long we left Richmond early in the morning and rode back to the windward coast through a place called La Digue. The roads we passed under ours but in tolerably good order. Until we got towards the coast, the roads 31 Guiana. 17 May, 1891. We passed along wide belts, and put one in mind of English country lanes. The cacao plantations were divided off from the woods by broads along high divisions of salba but here and there pretty glimpses of cultivation we met with. We reached the coast line at 'Union', an old abandoned sugar estates and the desolation and wildness around was in marked contrast to the thriving plantations he has passed through. Nothing perhaps, looks so desolate in these islands as an abandoned sugar estate. For the works were built, in the older days, in a most substantial manner regardless of expense; and the dilapidation of the buildings which which are usually also overgrown by bush, and the solemn stillness of a place that was in other days the scene of busy industry, cannot but strike a chord of sadness or even feeling of regret. We rode south along the coast road, which here and there has been encroached on by the sea, and finally comes to the large negro village of Maguins. This village might have been in the heart of Africa from its appearance. The mud and reeds hut one meets with in the forest islands for the prevailing type. The whole village was planted with trees, of which the sea side palm + Cacao nut predominated, and the people themselves appeared to adapt down in the peace

32 17 May, 1891 of civilization. We found some cases of yaws hidden away, and we had much difficulty in obtaining any information about the matter. At the first house we inquired at, we were solemnly assured that there were no cases of the disease thus, but afterwards we found that a bad case or, them actually in an inner room. After leaving Marquis after some time and rode back to Grenville in route to the District Hospital situated in the hills at the back of the town. The scene of the mass of mountains in the centre of the island is magnificent. A high hill not very far off called Fardon's Camp, because it was a stronghold of a maroon chief named Fardon and of his French allies and brother rebels. Fardon at one time became very powerful and nearly succeeded in taking the whole island. He captured the Governor and killed him; but, finally, he was defeated—and it is said, escaped from the island. Reaching Grenville from the south we rode through the town, and passing into the hills, along the main road which had taken yesterday afternoon we reached a point where we turned to go to the District Hospital. This institution is a small one, but with the exception of slight dilapidation of the buildings are found it in good order. There were 9 male and 4 female inmates. And one of the Grenada 33 17 May, 1891 farmer, a white sailor, told us a story to excite our curiosity; which story on reaching town informs us to be a story of lies. The man had been suffering from the results of drink. At the hospital got a small cup. item implement, which Long said should find there tough. From the hospital we rode out to L'et Dene, a fine cocoa estate belonging to the Hon. Fred Hanford, and Mr Hanford received us hospitably in his fine house— Mr Ellis Hanford was going to Church, so they asked us to excuse them as they could not miss the service. Which was the first real long time we much as the Parish R.C. Priest had injured his hand and could not therefore perform high mass! I had a long talk with Mr H. concerning planting matters, and he got on so well that he begged me to return to Grenada with or two with him. After lunch we venture on way up the mountain road and after some time came to Billeric Estate, formerly the property of W Balt— the present in suit my customer & now belonging to Mr R. Ripon-Scholtes the Attorney General of Grenada. Here we met the manager Mr. Elliot whom at one time Curator of the Botanic Garden & Mr R. V. Schering, F.L.S., who had been collecting

Grenada July, [1891] botanical specimens on the island for sometime for the joint Comm of the R. I. Brit. Assoc.? Schering was very pleased to meet me as I am one of the Secretarys of the Cam? The T.D and Ellis had a long botanical jaw. Scherring has been doing good work in the islands. She has been all over the mountains and ascended the highest peaks. He tells me that Herbert Smith, who he has been employed in the fauna is one of the finest collectors he has met with. After alims we got to see the nutmeg plantation in which are some of the largest trees in the island and perhaps in the world. One tree gave one year when the price of nutmegs was high more than £35 sterling prof?i Schorts bought the place for £10, 000 it is Mahim only 70 acres, but is already gives a revenue of at least £200 a year. The oldest nutmeg trees are on a boat steep Slope below the ground and they are fully 60 feet high. The trunks run up for 30 feet without a branchy and the mass fall to the ground and are picked up several times, adoz. Baltic trunks are hypemophylla one here and there in the roots. He saws a fruit; Helen is the shell being banded with pink colors. There was also along tree of the Surinam nutmeg- on the plantation and it has small nuts but with no aromatic flavour. Mr. Ellist with his capless clipped Grenada. 17 May, 1891 off a piece of wood from a long log on the ground She asked me to smell it if I say what it was. The wood had a pungent coniferaceous odour and I said smell it is not Hemphi wood and she said that it was. Large tree had been cut down the only own in the island and this fine log was rolling on the ground. A few of the wood had been sawn into boards to make a cabinet for Mr Schools. After a good rest we rode out to Grants Town and the five miles long got to the mountain plateau on which is the first lake called the Indian Etang. This lake is a good sized one, and a fine view of it is got from the back of the posthouse - a house built by the govt for the con- venience of travellers. There is a bedroom in which we found Schering impeding to his ears praying this. Mons spent night her with Schering, and I noticed his name in the Visitors book. The vegetation on a good deal like that of Dominica a little more Landel. A palm tree (1) montana, and Heliconias, fern abundant and fumes were plentiful. There is not much difference as regards the trees in the mountain vegetation of most of the islands with an abundant rainfall. The men in charge of the post house is all sorts to sell

36. Grenada. 17 May 1891. Refreshments, so we had some bottled ale and then proceeded on our tour towards town. We saw some descending the hill towards the Vale of Tempe, but he turned aside to see the water works reservoir, and it is full with a view. The scenery in the neighbourhood is fine, and the cool clear placed water in the reservoir is restful to the eye of along ride through country with varied scenery. Leaving the reservoir we rode on and some came to the spot I had reached with his health, and thence to town though the little village of Long Corners was familiar ground to me. Just beyond Sugar Corners we stopped at Dr. Hutton's home at Poileau, where we had tea and met D Boyd, Sir Deane, Mr Bush, the Col. Empire and others. As he stayed some time talking with his research of hours until it was nearly dark and I put up with Agrias as it was rather late to get to Fort House. Agrias has a fine stone house front to the fort. It is deliciously cool, and there is a good bath. As Agrias will be continually on the momentous home off to St Vincent I decided to sleep at his house instead of going back to Fort H's, and would be a nuisance coming to late and then rushing to dress perhaps keeping the people back. 18 May 1891. Monday. The Grenada telephoned down to know what had 37. Grenada. 18 May 1891. Remains of me, and he asked me to come up in time for lunch which I did. He was much interested in my tips, and the lady ship was very nice. As I had much writing todo, I asked them to excuse me going to dinner and I was brought to your place and had some luggage and done too. In the evening Agrias & I go to the Club. I play again a two of billiards with him. 19 May 1891. Wednesday. To day Agrias & I was through the St David's district which is the south end of the island. There is less cultivation here than in other parts of the island, and the valley, by the sea a better magnitude, with abandoned or partially cultivated. We called on the Rev Dr Branch, a cousin of Bishop Branch of Antigua, and father of the Miss Branch who put me in my car when I left Dominica. She is then goin from Antigua to St Vincent today, with her uncle Canon Branch there. The Branches were all pleased to see me (especially my travelling companion Miss B) for they had all heard of me. Mr Branch is also a planter, he has a small estate near to his Church which is about 3 miles from St George and belongs close to acres of cacao, nearly all of which he has planted with his own hands, and which gives a better return than any other cacao in the island. This is to be explained by the high morning - health.

38 Grenada. 19 May, 1875 Crops are now [illegible] employ his cart by sending it to fetch up all the rubble and other manure he can get. This he hauls into his land, and thus improves its bearing power considerably. Mr Branch also does some cane cultivation and he grinds his cane by windmill power. Beyond to Cacao cultivation, in Malta Haly Hutchinson kindly allowed me to make the following extract from a dispatch he has done under date of 14th March 1875: "In Grenada, on a well managed estate, the total cost of production of cacao, including wages, repairs, and cost of current improvements may safely be placed at £1.8.0 per bag of 150 lbs." "At the present price of cacao, a bag of 150 lbs. of well cured cacao clears about £4.6.0 after payment of freight and commission. Cacao on good lands averages five bags, and even with prices - as safe average for middling lands is three bags per acre" "The labour of cutting the cacao and bringing it to the house can will not cost anything in this case, but in order to be on the safe side, I shall place the cost of preparing the cacao including management and delivery on the wharf at £1.14f. "At present prices this leaves a margin of £2.07- per bag" This extract is from an able despatch relating to the 39 Grenada. 19 May, 1875 opening up and cultivation of the newly discovered Richmond Valley in the interior of St Vincent. The Grenada scheme is to open up this valley by a road leading upto and through it, to create or surveyed lots principally for Barbados & slave who would receive freeholds on the condition that they cultivate cacao, and sell the produce to the Govt Monopoly. This scheme if carried out by an able man would be undoubtedly a successful one, but as the Governor said, the difficulty was to get a good man. I have to mention that before we reached the house of the Rev W Branch, we came to a Barbadian settlement which appears to be very prosperous. Barbadians (principally blacks) had settled in the district and made themselves into a permanent community. Here and there was a diminutive sugar plantation with its small windmill and tanks. Justified also by the roadside a wheelwright and blacksmiths shops & other shops. Indeed one might suppose that they were in Barbados - for the stately Barbadians are very rarely distinguished. At a place called Vincennes I got two Cask stone implements. One however, had to give 7b 6d.

Grenada 19 May 1841. Soon after leaving Mr Shanchi's we came to St Paterson's home. St P is the District Offr of St Davis. He was formerly at 'Mincaul' and was then thought much of. He was a hard student, and so, hon surgeon of his hospital for a time. His house is rather uncomfortable and it appears to me to be the health centre of hospitalation. Rather far away from two districts. Here we went to St Wells' estate when we went to lunch. Old St Wells, is architect Grenada well off; and he lives on a small (Headboat) estate, which is pretty, cultivated and nicely cultivated situated tree's, cacao, nutmegs, clou, &c. Many of the nutmegs are very large trees and he must make a good crop of spices. He has a Bay Balsam of Peru tree growing on his estate, and near the house is a splendid clump of Raphia flabelliformis. The plants are the finest and biggest I have seen. St Wells is a fine old fellow and he appeared glad to see us. He was a staunch opponent of Crown Colony Govt; and at the time the constitution was altered, he made a vigorous fight to keep up the old order of things. He was presented with an address and a splendid silver cup by his friends and political advisors. The frame is framed and being against the wall in the sitting room, and the delta is the centre ornaments of the table. Old St Wells gave me some interesting information about the introduction of nutmegs into Grenada. He stated that about the year 1829 Messrs Thompson, Hankey & Co, London merchants,

Granada. 19 May, 1891. Having an interest in the island, sent out my plants to all their estates of Transandine. All died except two at Grand Bras, and these are not thriving. Hen McKendry, a revenue officer who was fond of botany, begged for the two remaining plants; in return he drove them. The plants were given to him, and he planted them at Bellevue where after some time they thrived. Some time ago, when prices were high, the produce of the female of these two trees gave 35 shillings. Leaving O'Woll's place we rode to St Davids, then an situated near the R.C. Church, and the Court House and Police Station. But there is no village, and the it seems absurd to put up a Court House in a practically uninhabited spot. At the time of the pirate marauders, there was a thriving little town on the coast called St Davids. This town was conveniently situated, and it was the sea port for that part of the coast. But Pir don (illegible) his fellow rebel, and French allies one day appeared before St Davids and burnt it to the ground. The houses were never rebuilt, and the town is now no more. Had, however, the Govt built the Court House on the site of the old town, in the opinion of many persons a town would soon have grown up around it and in time the town might have been regenerated. We found the court road very hot in the afternoon sun after a good lunch, and we pushed on pretty quickly.

Grenada 19 May, 1891 We passed through very fine sugar estate called 'Burlie's Baiolet', and Orgas informed me that in the old sugar days it was the finest estate in the island. It is now happily being rehabilitated, but large tracts of fine valley land are still uncultivated. Leaving this sugar estate we struck into the mountains again, and before long we came out on the upper road we had passed along in the morning. Before going down to the town he rode on to Richmond Hill, where troops were formerly stationed, and saw the old military buildings. One of the barracks has been converted into a lunatic asylum which he rented. The asylum is under the care of Dr. Mr. McLeod, as he was in town, so I went round the institution with Orgas. The lunatics are taken well care of, and, all things considered, the Asylum is as good home as can be expected in a small island. 20 May, 1891. Wednesday Orgas and I went in the R.M.S. St 'Welltham' to Carriacou to day. He left at 8 am. and steamed out of the cavenage, and along the lee ward coast of Grenada. It was very interesting identifying the places we had visited, as the little steam passed along with a shut distance of the land. Valley after valley opened up, and

Carricaton 20 May, 1891. and that this place had writings or inscriptions met. As I came on deck again, and were some pitching and rolling in the full swell of the Atlantic. The view of penula or we were gradually leaving it behind me very fine. We saw from land, where Vroman Rockys viewed the haunts of Venus quite distinctly. An almost barren looking place. The boat was so small that it was impossible to stand up on the little deck many by the pitching, and sometime had to hold on by the iron stanchions of the awning. After what a couple of hours steaming we came to a rock called Kick-Em-Jenny, on which there were multitudes of birds. The Captain of the Steam "Walktram" blew the whistle as we passed the rock, and the birds flew up in clouds. It was really a wonderful sight. Birds big and small, old and young, set madly on the wing, and the air resounded with their shrieks and cries. Gulls of several kinds, terns, boobies, + frigate birds all hustling each other in the air or flopping down into the sea, made up a sight worth to be followed. Passing Kick-'em-Jenny is the roughest part of the voyage, and I began to feel rather queer before the third violent bultom. Brevis was called up agains the cabin window, and before long I quickly bent to the side and paid tribute to Arisptune. It was the first time I had been seasick for years, and hopefully for me the unpleasant sentiments passed after I had given that

Carriacou. 20 May, 1891. Patterson - the Caesar of the island. W.P. received as kindly and gave us some much needed refreshment whilst we waited for Dr. Durrant, the resident medical officer, who had been called away to see a patient some distance off. We met also the Rev. W. Gresham, the Anglican clergyman, who is somewhat of a character. Dr. Durrant having arrived we walked up to the little hospital within, and inspected it whilst we were waiting for horses. The Cottage Hospital was very clean, and the arrangements re- flected much credit on Dr. Durrant who is a young man of a energetic temperament and of useless energy. Horses having been obtained we started for Pellewne, the Doctor's residence on the top of a ridge 700 feet above the sea. The distance was but two miles and we passed through fields running right up steep hill sides off which the cotton crop had been reaped. Cotton is the principal staple of the island, and a considerable quantity is exported. On the larger properties steam gins are used, and on the smaller ones, the machinery is run by means of power derived from miniature wind mills. The Doctor's house was in the older time the 'great house' of a sugar estate, and hard by are the ruins of the sugar works and the great and massive wind-mill towers. The house is built of dressed stone, and it is still a very fine building - Dr. and other

Caraicon. 20 May, 1891. House no hutty n sholly in ruins; are indices of the wealth of the bigan planters of the old slavery days. In this house we recorded & my friend Dr Branchum of St Kitts—the able brother of Bishop Branch of Antigua. Mr Durant, the doctor's mother, received us warmly, although we came upon her unexpectedly. She is a very with marbain handsome and charming old lady, and the grace and dignity with which she carried out her duties as hostess in this out-of-the-way corner of the world, could not but pain feelings of admiration. The house is more like an old country squire's residence at home, and every window was fitted with plan sashes. At night they are all closed up, so the cool strong wind sweeping in from the Atlantic brought by the doctor and his mother to be dangerous! At last it became so hot that Ogras & I could stand it no longer, and some went out into the verandah when I smoked my pipe, and got cooled down by the delightful cool wind that blows here constantly. When we got to our bedroom, Dr & I threw open the windows and got a cool sleep. 21 May, 1891 Thursday. The little Royal Mail Steamer leaves Cariacon for Grenada at 9 a.m. But the Governor authorized me to keep it back for several hours in aduit that I might visit some several of the districts of the island. So we decided on our

48 Carriacou. 21 May, 1891. Route and got an early breakfast. Mr Durant very kindly gave me two fine stone implements found in the island. He has one that he found in Grenada with the wooden handle attached, but the man who discovered it unfortunately broke away and destroyed the interesting wood part of the weapon— which has probably been used by its first owner several hundred years ago to crack his enemies' skulls with. This is a magnificent piece of the Grenadines from Millener's. To the N.W. lie little Tobago, little St Vincent, and little Martinique— thelast mentioned sending up a fine central sugar-loaf peak toward the sky. Away to the south one can see Green Island, Margos, the Tobago Cays and Cayouan. The scenery positively lovely. We bid good by to Mr Durant, got on our ponies and rode along the ridge on which the house was built toward the south in order to visit a small village in the quarter called Bellean, and very well called to. The people's houses are some— what frail in appearance being made of mud and cattle. There are no large indigenous trees in the island so that timber is pretty expensive, and most of the people are poor. Leaving Bel- an we rode down the hill toward the west coast to visit a very large village called Boyles, indeed the largest and most populous village in Carriacou. The roads are exceedingly constructed, and

Carriacou. 21 May 1891 as no rain has fallen for a long time there is a drought in the land. In riding along this road one could get a very good idea of the indigenous vegetation. Except in the case of silk-cotton trees, and the tamarind and other trees introduced into the W. I. they are none with fruit at a glance. A demon told me that white cedar and other native woods are cut by the people as soon as they attain a size sufficient to be worked up owing to the scarcity of timber. In my ride about the island I noticed the following trees which will give an idea of the vegetation: Wild tamarind ( Pithe- celobium filicifolium ). Loure, ( Hymenaea Courbaril ). White cedar, Jeona leucocylon ). Physic nut ( Jatropha Curcas ). Acacia Farnesiana. A. arabica. Almond ( Terminalia catappa ). Mandrake ( Cordia pulcata ). ' Crab wood' a leguminous. There were also after Coconut and Palms ( Areca catecha ) trees here and there. And by the sea side one found the Liceae ( Chrysobalanus Ixora) and the sea figs figs ( Cocco- loba, unifica). The whole place was so burnt up that weeds and flowering herbaceous plants were conspicuous by their absence and one could really only judge of the vegetation by the trees shrubs. Furcraea cubensis (the 'doggy bush' a 'silk grass') and an Agave , which I take to be close to A. rigida were very

50 Caniacou. 21 May, 1871. abundant, and Mr. Patterson, who had sent cleared fibres of these plants to England and got excellent returns on them, was contemplating getting out a fibre machinery for to Wadesman to go in for the fibre industry. The fibre from the Agave from the belt and is now imported to the south of London. We passed several dry ponds by the road side. The water supply of Caniacou is very defective in the dry season, and the people drink brackish or muddy water and appear to like it. The ponds collect the surface drainage only and cattle are allowed to wade into these ponds and to pollute the dirt... When O'Brenant expostulated with the people about the matter they said the cattle trod down and hardened the muddy bottoms, and prevented the ponds foulating ! He told me a good story of a well-to-do resident who sent to Grenada, and told the people, when he returned, that the water of Grenada " was just nice, it was too weak and tasteless it had no body in it" !! We rode down the hill and came to Bogles, which runs down the hillside to the sea shore. The houses are very numerous & sprude amongst them. The buildings, except one or two houses are very poor and sanitary arrangements are practically nil. What with bad water, ill-constructed houses, 57 Caniacou. 21 May, 1871. and defective sanitation, it is a wonder that the people are so healthy. But when epidemic disease visits the island the mortality is very great, and this is especially the case, as one might expect, when dysentery is introduced. To the south of Bogles is a little bay with a fine white sandy beach called Yow's Bay for the reason that in slavery times, yow's case was located here in a large hospital - the crumbling stone walls of which are still visible. Sea bathing or then conducted, as it is now, to be very beneficial in the disease. Now is now no yaws in Caniacou, owing to the careful supervision of the resident medical officer who drafts all case at once to the Grenada yaws hospital. Some time ago the disease was introduced from Trinidad and Dr- O'Brenant also knew and is liked by every one of the population. of some 700 persons are informed at once, and he sent the affected persons away to the hospital at St George. Since then the island has been free of the disease. After leaving Bogles we struck right across the central hills of the island to the Windward side. My horse gave me a lot of trouble as it had been caught in the fields, when it was roaming wild and had not been properly broken in. It did not answer well to the bridle, and as I am doggy

52 Coriacou. 21 May, 1891. Behind I stuck in the spurs. The next moment the pony and I were off the ground and flying up in the air on the result of the queer back jump is has been my lot to experience. I lost the right stirrup, but both of us come down another second safely, and I was still my good luck, in the saddle. The darling pony then tried to kick the back of my head with his hind feet, but after application of the spur, caused him to change his mind and to rear so that I threw we were both going over backwards. I then hit the little dear on the head between the ears as hard as I could with the knob of my umbrella, whereupon the pony got all four legs again and shook his head vigorously but then began to know each other more intimately, and Monte Pony went off at a peculiar double shuffle unlike any other pace that I have experienced. Was not a trot, it was not a fast walk, nor an amble nor a canter, but a kind of combination of all three modes of equine progression with something peculiar added. What that something was I didn't know, made I know now, all I can say is that I had to sit tight and hope that the ligaments holding up my liver was sufficiently strong to bear the strain and to keep that viscus in its proper place. Fluttering and rolling and twitching of the little Weltham as it rounded 'kick'em Harry' were not in it at 53 Coriacou. 21 May, 1891. all, and but for my six nickers on the Waltham, I believe should have been my "horse-pick" on my charming Coriacou pony. We passed through Delbridge and drove riding along the stubble, cut corn fields, for often every crop the stubs are cut close to the ground, and miss the stumps sticking up. And he bent by the ruins of what must have been once quite a mansion. The stone walls remained and on the parapets were ornaments carved in stone. We rode through a place called Baie d'Iron which indicated that is iron word to fine water, and here through Mr Brument's influence a deep well had been dug by the Parochial Board of which he is in the leading members. The well was dug to the depth of 25 feet and no water was got, then the two men of Coriacou abandoned the work, for, as they said, there is now well in the island deeper than 25 feet, "who have dug 25 feet fine" and these cannot be taken in the place. The Rev. D. Brument pointed out that the lay of the land showed that the water from the low-water-tide must pass below the surface and he urged his colleagues to go on digging, but all to no use. At last he offers to bear the expenses of the further digging operations provided that the Parochial Board repaid him the money if water were found. This the wise men of Coriacou

524 Carriacou. 21 May, 1891.—I consulted G., for they had wasted the treasure money in digging 25 feet down, and they were quite willing that the Doctor's pocket should be punished as he had really led them into the ridiculous expense of digging for salt in a place where no water could possibly be found. Marvin soon threw his anger; there were representations of the people of Carriacou left the bare-headed Doctor to carry on his foolish digging operations, and they shook their heads, when they remembered that they had been allowed him to persuade them against their better knowledge as to dig for water in an arid place. And then they smiled and joked about the funny idea of digging more than 25 feet, when the deepest well was actually only 24 feet! A few days passed when it began to be whispered that people had been seen going to the river with buckets, and from and demi-johns, and kerosene tins. This news came riding in to Hillsborough, the metropolis of Carriacou, who had seen a woman who had heard that water the Doctor had got to the water at an incredible distance below the surface. The whole thing was of course treated as a splendid joke, and the whites, and the men with the shocks gave the woman who had heard of the discovery of the water were cheered. But before long the Carriacouians had awaking in morning 53- 21 May, 1891.—I took a run from month to month, and the people of the island looked down on me with at the incredible distance of 37 feet below the surface. G. Durant had extracted water from the bowels of the earth, and although the water was thin and had no taste or body in it, still it was good enough to make shift with, when the much nicer water of the polluted surface ponds had leaked all away in dry weather. My pony shook me past Mount Pleasant and then we got to have Bay a large sandy bay on the huddled side of the island strewn with driftwood, reeds, and other jetsam from the Rivers of Brazil. At village at the head of this bay is a case of leprosy. Nothing is done in Grenada to isolate these lepers and there are good many in different parts of the Colony. We then rode up to a narrow path leading to a place on the top of the ridge running through the island called Top Hill. My delightful pony considered it necessary to [illegible] along the new margin of the side road where steep declivity led down to the lower lands. His persuasion had the effect of getting the nice animal into the road itself, or I have paid behind a supreme disregard for reins, and equine gymnastics are various.

Canea con. 21 May, 1891. mountain road was out of the question so I had to keep the open quiet. However we got to the top of Top Hill and were rewarded by a magnificent view. We then rode down through Mount Deric and Prospect Hill, past the grave yard with its rudely carved crosses and headstones, of native work of art, and got into a flat country place at the back of Hillsborough. We met Mr Pattison again, and whilst he was getting his carriage ready to show me, drove to the Court House and saw Mr Roche the resident Magistrate. Whilst sitting in the verandah of the Court House I counted five wedding parties pass towards the Church. The bride and bridegroom were dressed up in the height of European fashion, the bride having white veils on their black faces. A marriage party is generally accompanied by 2 or 3 groomsmen and bridesmaids - some of the bridesmaids being young children of the bride and bridegroom. The Rev. Mr. Suckham had been at work amongst the Catterton people and numerous marriages resulted. I am told that in one instance after a week or two of wedded life, a couple was disturbed by the advent to the island of the first wife of the bridegroom, and the unfaithful husband secured himself by throwing the blame on the 'parson' who made him marry. Canea con. 21 May, 1891. again. On explanation being made, the man, a full convincer said, 'why should I parson you bin wrong me to many dose woman, and you wish whin if I bin many away,' which naturally, got the men I can not say, but I presume the parson made deep inquiries into the past life of the couple before building them together as man and wife. There is a police station at Hillsborough with a small detachment of police under the command of a Serjeant, and there is also a branch Treasury and a revenue office in charge. Mr Pattison rushed his gun working away and he came to tell me that all the cotton he had on hand would soon be though unless I came out once. So I went round and saw the cotton enveloping the seed being pushed in one side, and clean cotton coming out the other in sheets 2 or 3 miles thick. The cotton seed is thrown out from separate aperture and is shipped in bags to make cotton seed oil. Mr Hillsborough buys cotton from the peasants at 1/4d a lb, and the clean cotton is worth 3/-. Many of the people here land from the proprietors at 30/- an acre, and they get crops of cotton, maize and pepper for during the year. The cotton is picked on

Carriacou. St. Mary, Apr.1. to pay the port and the two other corps are considered as profit. Mr P told me that an acre yields 2 or 3 cwt of clean cotton when manured. The cost goes to the bale. An ordinary crop of maize gives 25 barrels to the acre, and if the price per bushel could get us $15 quarts. But they are sold mostly in Grenada & Barbados. Ground nuts are also grown sometimes, and a usual crop is 30 barrels to the acre; these nuts are sold in Trinidad, Barbadoes or Montegoque. The usual rotation is cotton, maize and pigeon peas. The cotton plant grown is a small shrub not higher than 3 feet; and as it has been cultivated in the island for many years without a proper application of manure to the land, its product is greatly deteriorated. It is customary for the men to leave the island for Trinidad and elsewhere to find work after the cotton fields are planted, and thus it comes to pass that the female part of the population at certain seasons is in much greater proportion than at others. I believe the island in the well-known town, having kept back the steamer three hours. When we got on board the Captain told me I need not be hurried as he would have considered it his duty to wait any time for me. He is very attentive, and he managed to get me a deck chair which was really very acceptable; and later the same Grenada. 21 May 1891. back with a fellow we steamed out of the Bay of Hillsborough and passed by Macouyas and Sandy Islands, and then ran along the south end of the island, passing the lagoon which I had not had time to visit. Here are mangrove trees, and free oysters. These oysters are considered a most delicacy and they are really very nice. Ogles had managed to get a bowl of them which he carried back to Grenada. The sea was rougher than when we came, and the boat was tossed about like a cat on the water but I am still, for after spending an hour or two in that party I was ready for anything. We got to Launceton at the south end of Grenada after about 3 hours steaming, and Mr Wells and the Rev. Dr Cunliffe—the old gentleman who had conducted the service at the African Church in St George’s when I went with the Governor. This Dr Cunliffe was formerly Rector of St John’s before the church was disestablished and discontinued in St Vincent. And, as his pension is not a large one, he takes pupils and acts as vicar tenures for other persons. In church he looked a very solemn old ecclesiastic but returned at the end of a jolly old boy, and kept us amused by his funny stories.

Grenada. 21 May, 1891. Some of them not quite the kind of stories one would have expected a clergyman to tell - He is father-in-law of Mr Brittain, the inspector of schools on the Leeward Islands. He goes back to St George's late in the afternoon. And, Sir Walter telephoned down to say that he expected me to dinner and that he would send the Carriacou groom. So I set off to Government House and was again made thoroughly at home by the Governor and his wife. Sir Walter read to me dispatches he had written to the Administrator of St Lucia and St Vincent reporting them to help me in any way they could. And he directed the Adm'r of St Vincent to telegraph to th Adm'r of St Lucia to announce my advent as soon as I left the former island. After dinner we had long talk about all kinds of things, and Sir Walter became quite confidential about the affairs of state, as he had often been before. He is really a right good fellow, and his kindness and bonhomie's rendered my stay in Grenada and my official relations with him most pleasant. Lady Staly, Hutchinson was tickled while we were having our confabs, and it was rather late when I said goodbye. Sir Walter wanted me to stay the night, but I had told Opus I am coming back and I had not packed up to ready for the steamer in the mrg. Grenada. 21 May, 1891. Sir Walter said he would ask the police boat be ready for me, and he promised to keep back his dispatches until the mail bag until I am ready so as to give me plenty of time. With a hearty hand-shake I left him and thanked him for all his goodnes's to me. 22 May, 1891 Friday. Getting ready to pack - An awful job, and one I dislike very much. However, Sir Walter gave me a good help, and the thing ran slow in time. My impediments are increasing a good deal, and I have had to buy a new trunk. I must send on some of the things to Dominica from St Vincent. I called on Boyd to bid him and Mr D. good bye and then walked down to the wharf with Opus. Sir Walter had already gone off with the luggage. It is his duty to see after all these things and to pay the people, so I am saved a lot of trouble. At 5 o'clock, the Revenue Officer was waiting for me, and he had a parcel of clothes I had got from Trinidad. The Governor had given orders that I am to pay no duty on anything, so I had no trouble with the customs. I am then ready to go and soon I am on board the 'Cali' and released by the officers. Miss Giffens was on board, and she seemed very pleased to see me. She gave me all kinds of messages from the Dulcels and my other Tobago friends.

St Vincent. 22 May 1891. We had a very pleasant run down to St Vincent. The wind last evening and the Grenadines is very beautiful. I am able to point out objects and places of interest to Messrs Giltine, and to Mr & Mrs Smith's friends of hers on board. Mr Smith is the sister of Dr Blane of Tobago. Mr Schering, the Ornithist is also on board, as he is going back to England after replacing Grenada in the Crown's. There was also on board Mr Herbert Smith, a zoologist who had done splendid collecting work in St Vincent and Grenada. His expenses are paid by Mr Grobman an English man of science who is very wealthy. Schering introduced me to Smith and we had a long and interesting talk. Smith is going back to St Vincent to get me two specimens of area butterfly. Mr Clements, the Chief Clerk in the Government office was sent off by the Administrator to receive me, and I went ashore with him and went up to Govt Office at two o'clock. I met Captain Melvin. Clements had got rooms from us of the Hotel, and left designed to see after getting the luggage up. Captain Melvin was very nice and friendly. He apologized for not putting me up at first he, said he had a large family, and the new Magistrate for capital town and Mr T Hargreaves are occupying the only St Vincent. 22 May 1891. Spoon room. He assured me that he would do all he could to help me in my mission, and she told me not to hesitate to ask him for whatever I wanted. I go to the hotel and found Mr & Mrs Smith & Miss Giltine there taking tea, so I joined them and went for a walk with them. I started by the market and saw some horrible looking flesh, red in color and with a horrible peculiar olly smell, offered for sale. It was whole flesh, and I am told that the people like it. We then visited the Anglican cathedral very fine large building, and saw stab on the centre aisle on which we inscribed a spatula to Major ____ who slew Chalora the great Barb chief with his own hand in single combat, during the last Carib war. We then went to the R C. Church which was filled with people and ladies, and Mr Smith went up to the chancel and knelt downed herself and said widely a short prayer. We then walked back to the hotel and I did my luggage arranging good bye. The Hotel is quite comfortable, and the landlord, Mr Proban is anxious to please. Two fellow men staying there I had met before. One was Mr Alan

64 To Vincent. 22 May, 1891. Daleympfe, relation of the Daleymples who used to be in Dominica. I met on the steamer when I brought Oslo back from Dominica Antigua after his severe illness. And the other was a Mr. Hewitt, acting as accountant of the Colonial Bank whom I met in March at the Crane Hotel in Barbados. So we soon became friendly. 23 May, 1891. Saturday. This morning I called on Mr. Administrata and have a long conference with him. He is a tall handsome man of very nice manners, and he received me warmly and with great kindness. Afterwards I call to see Dr. [illegible] the Colonial Surgeon. He too is very friendly and he offered to help me in anyway he could. Mrs. Musson, who is a lady of rather large proportions is very gracious. Her daughter, short about 16, is as sweet and small as edition of her. In the afternoon I got to tennis at Government House with Reverend Hewitt, which is about a mile away from the town and pleasantly situated at the head of the Botanic Gardens. Captain Muling had asked me to go, and he said Mr. Muling would take it for a call. Mr. Muling and her daughters are surrounded by the St Vincent youth and beauty. Mrs. Muling is somewhat old looking but she was very nice and industriously strove to make herself agreeable. She has eleven children, including five daughters of varying ages with her. Here is also a Miss Hewitt—the Governess, about whom Hewitt is much chaffed, pretty

St Vincent. 68- 23 May, 1891. are both very tall, and the young fellows say they are made for each other. we walked back, and several of the ladies accompanied us. Reeve invited me to go with several fellows tomorrow on a walking party at the villa and I cannot go. 24 May, 1891 Sunday. Our party consists of Reeve, Delaporte, Herbert Smith, Richard Laburthe, Herbert and my young engineer. We first walked towards the south end of the town of Kingston which is shut in by a high and inaccessible cliff running down to the sea, and we've turned towards the East and mounted the hill until we reached the top-about 30 ft high. The road up, though steep is good, and all along it are built houses, the upper one looking on the lake. At the top of Lion Hill, as it is called, are several quite residences belonging to the gentry of the place. One house especially belonging to Vice Adm. H-A. Hazzell is a very fine one. We now walked along the level top of the hill and gradually descended along a winding road to Great Head Estate or walked across a fine wide valley, closed at each end by a ridge and proceeded along a flat road with numerous cabbage palm trees planted by its side in rows. These trees were much finer before the hurricane (which destroyed a good many) several years ago. We then ascended another ridge and crossing it returned towards the sea, and passing through the villa Estate we reached a small & The Warrawares.

St Vincent. 24 May 1891. Sandy bay with two bathing houses at the end of small jetty. One of the houses was dilapidated, and the other was locked and we had squabbling for the key, so we had to wander on to little jetty. The beach was of pure white sand, and it gradually shelved down so that one could walk along many without getting beyond two feet depth. The water was beautifully refreshing after an hour hot walk of three miles, and it was warm and buoyant. I had never before bathed in the sea in the West Indies, although I have lived out in them so many years. I was simply afraid of sharks and other voracious fish. But then we said to turn sharks at the villa, and so after a little hesitation to go out far, I forgot all about the monster of the deep and enjoyed myself immensely. We swam on our hearts, men trucks out on our sides. We paddled. We looked about. We dived for stones and generally enjoyed ourselves like children. After a long time in the water we came out, and looked for the boat we had sent on with cocktails and breakfast. But we saw nothing of the boat and so we rowed along, and fished for sea urchins and anemones amongst some enclosures further along. Reeve put on his helmet, and wore his towel round his loins, and Daley replenished the same, notwithstanding the rounds of chaff they got. At last the boat came along and we had a refreshing iced cocktail

St. Vincent. 24 May, 1891. and then cruttling good breakfast lunch. The whole thing was very enjoyable, and all the fellows were in good spirits and anxious to add to the general enjoyment. After lunch we rowed about, and then chatted and went into the water again, but the sea was very hot, and so we did not stay in so long. We then put into the boat and were rowed back to Kensington. The view of the town from the bay is very beautiful, where the place opens up from Cam Garden Point—the extremity of the ridge to the south of the town—the lovely views is merely surpassed in all the islands. We got back at about 20 o’clock and dined at [illegible] Mrs Davis pretty speedily, and after dinner had an attack of sun fever from the exposure at during the 2nd belt. 25 May, 1891. Thursday. Better this morning. The Government has sent me a whole pile of papers concerning yams, and allied Outposts, and I was engaged all the morning reading them carefully. Twice in the evening at St. Helen. Been you with me. Mrs M. It is really the most important member of the Council, and Mr Aubyn the Police Magistrate—a very handsome every nice young fellow. Got his to a nice civil building, and Captain Mulley gave us a capital dinner. After dinner Mulley, according to arrangement, made an offer—

To Vincent. 25 May 1891. I came to have a talk with old Hayll concerning my mission, for the old gentleman was opposed to the grant for Defence, & although opposition of that nature did not really affect me I am willing to help the Govt in carrying their measure with not much difficulty. The old fellow is quite reasonable, and when I explained to him the reasons that had induced the Home Govt to institute the special inquiry, and showed him what a few days might accrue he at once said he did not understand the question before, and that as I explained it all opposition was at an end. Later on the Administrators told me with great pleasure that Mr Hayll had said he would support the Government. When I joined the ladies we had a game at pool, and Mrs Miss Malins beat us easily. After a very pleasant evening I came back to the hotel. 26 May 1891. Tuesday. The mail came in this morning, and the news from home was very good. Dollie and the baby have both been well, but happily are better since she left. The baby especially has been very ill indeed. Dr. James Rat appeared to have been very kind and attentive. And at no hour of day or person. After dinner in the afternoon I take a walk through the town which is

St Vincent 69 26 May, 1871 my will laid out, and most of the house is substantially built of stone. In many instances they are built on the side walls of the street, while stone or brick arches being erected over the entrances to support the first story. In this way we can often walk along the pavements for some distance under these colonades. I met Stevenson and was sent into the Bridge club of which I have been made a member and I meet a lot of fellows too. Some of them invite me to go over in the evening to play whist - which I do. The Club is not up to much. 27 May 1871 Wednesday. This morning I go for a ride to the Botanic Garden and Mr Parrell the Curator shows me over the place. It is the site of the old garden that was so celebrated under established in 1764 (1828) lent Century's but at the early part of this century, the garden was abandoned, and those plants that could be removed were transferred to Trinidad. A few of the old trees, some of much interest and economic value, was left, and amongst them a very fine group of nutmeg trees. Hurricanes, however, destroyed a good of 1831), many. When Mr Parrell took over the place it was an emptyly in Decr 1840) jungle, but it is now situated in a valley just below Fort Ann - which always goes by the name of the Garden

St Vincent. 27 May, 1871. May 1870. Mr Balle has converted the jungle into a pretty little botanic garden, and he deserves immense credit for his work. A nice little ornamental house is being built in the garden, for the Curate and thus he will be able to remain his talk when the house is finished. He now lives at the hotel. Eventually round the garden both him and selected a lot of plants for St Vincent's, which he proposes to pack up and send on. In Belfield, who was accountant of the Colonial Bank in Dominica when I first came out is him as Manager. 'The Vicar', as we used to call him, was very glad to see me and he introduced me to his wife, also for certain interesting reasons is not visible to the general public. She has 3 or 4 daughters, neat little girls, and he but his only boy from dysentery a year or so ago. This afternoon he and I went to Callisgua for a ride. We mount from hill, from first hand, came the Barracaron by the Bridge, then also the Villa where we slept on Sunday and some afternoon ride by some swampy land into the old town of Callisqua church in the Colony, or the capital of the island. But it's quite long protected by Young Island, and a big rock which is St Vincent. 27 May 1871 a fat, called Fat Devanette, has filled up and it is too shallow for shipping purposes. To get to the Fat pile Devanette it is necessary to go up steps carved in the solid rock as a winding staircase, and in its time, it must have been very almost impenetrable. During the hurricane the old Callisgua Church has blown down, and the African Dicta of the parish is now building another one. We went over the place, and I am interested at the substantial way in which the Church was being built in solid stone. The cost must have been costly, but the fate dictated sound a promise, but I heard afterwards that large sums were given by a few persons of means. On riding back 'The Vicar' and I had a rather cool ride. But the big long horse for riding far away into a gallop and as the road was level we went at full speed. The motion was pleasant and the hour month has hard it. Belfield he with bright, and I found to be really a quarter of an hour for him. When he came up he said 'I'm far away from him like the wind' and from his talk afterwards I got the reputation of being a very hard and cold ride.

St Vincent. 27 May 1891. In the evening I went to Wakefield's White and met Mr & Mrs the Colonial Surgeon, Heeritt, and Willis Durant a barrister. Mr Wakefield did not appear; when there little daughter died, and is in very pretty flower. The colon collected roses in which he'd had learned to play the lute for her mother. Wakefields has a fine collection of St Vincent roses from it down by Hotham Smith. But the hot soil falls allowed his children to face the roses, and of course the labels were washed off. It was a very pleasant evening; Mr Wakefield made a most social host. 28 May 1891 Thursday. In this morning with Norman the Colonial Surgeon to the Institution. The hospital is at the upper end of the town facing a small green with a few trees in it, called the Victoria Park. It is a very creditable institution for the place. The buildings are detached, the roads are neat and airy with ample walking space, and the accessories are very good. There are [illegible] on an average each month, and there are [illegible]. We rode out of town towards the south through a place called Edinburgh which is a big flat below the heights and which it was Fort Charlotte. At Edinburgh we many houses occupied by two people, and even to the store. Fort Charlotte used, when the island has garrisoned, for the Commissariat department. Going from the bay we skirted the hill and on the lower slopes came to a large military building formerly a private years hospital. Here, for instance, its years patients resided; but the difficulty was the water supply which is only obtainable from rain cisterns. Leaving this building we rose still higher up the ridge and came to three buildings used as a leper hospital and asylum. There were about 20 persons male and female; some of them living in cells of the house. The whole scene was disgusting, and the indented inmates looked very miserable. All the cases are not leprosy but the majority are not. They saw on a two cases of yaws, and several cases of Indecent ulceration of the face caused by lupus. After he left this large house we scrambled up, through whom did, any steep road to the top of the heights and reached Fort Charlotte which has been turned into a Barracks House. When this old fortress occupied by troops, they are found in casemates; some then stone dungeons (if they are dark and cold and noxious like the dungeons than anything she saw was made to handle prisoners). The whole place was dirty and sad, and it had quite a depressing influence on me.

76 30 May, 1891. people home! Saturday. Cousin Branch, the daughter of the Rev. W. Branch of [illegible] Grenada, and a cousin of Bishop Branch of Antigua, had visited me to go this place at Banquallee today in return on Monday, and I accepted his kind invitation. We went down in the passage boat from the jetty at 2pm and then was a pretty party on to the MacDonald's place at Wallibalo just beyond Barranellie. His party consisted of Mr Ryan McDonald, Mrs the owner, Wallibalo and two young lasses of Milton Wakefield, C.F. Clements Chief Clerk in the Administration Office, C.J. McLeod, the Registrar and Herald of the Bank. Then ourselves D Percia this time who were going to Banquallee about their rounds. The passage boat is an immense dugout canoe 36 feet long. The biggest canoe I have ever seen. There were 5 women and a crewman. The front part was crowded with people, and the after part had 6 cross seats with backs to them. Then he was crowding, but the seats were fairly comfortable. By "It means always to come to see an off." I secured the narrow bench seat just in front of the entrance. Ducked & bedfroom got into the seat in front of me, and so I told Walter MacPherson from near there for some 30 feet they sat 77 St Vincent. 30 May, 1891. a few minutes possible, and after that time they gradually get closer with by each. Then Mr Percia said she has very stiffy, and rested her elbow on the edge of the canoe. Then she said it was uncomfortable. Then I suggested in a tone loud enough for the fellow in front to hear. "Why do you not put your head on your husband's shoulder and go to sleep comfortably." He seemed delighted and said "Oh! yes, I think that will be less tiring"; to which I added. "Of course it will." The fellow in front was killing themselves with suppressed laughter, which Sunday broke and other signs from me did not tend to decrease. Whilst my advice was taken, but the husband on the bow - damn, out of the kindness of my heart suggested the removal of the hat, which he eventually removed, and then drove to the bedroom "I think you will be still more comfortable if you cuddle him with your arm" and he promptly clutched his arm round her waist. I defended my approval to say that was too much for troublesome comfort in a boat. I made myself refreshed myself, and the fellow in front had been running down their cheeks, and they reproached me afterwards for the upspring. I had recommended them further did not like to relieve it much by laughing speeches.

St. Vincent. 30 May, 1891. There along the coast was pretty, but the weather was very hot and as the Captain kept the course close into shore shutting off the breeze we did not get much breeze. The formation of St Vincent is much like that of Dominica - from the central mountain chain ridges descend broad and usually and somewhat abruptly at the sea thus shutting off the valleys from each other and necessitating the frequent diverting of the coast road towards the interior soon to surpass the obstacle created by the dividing ridge which shuts off one valley from its neighbour. I found the road is close by the sea beach when it comes up valley also sometimes it leaves for several miles away from the coast and climbs up to considerable some look above the sea level. The gardens of the island is well scenery continuing along the leeward shore for bare cliff running them from the sea to the height of several hundred feet in places and within fences are seen in places the remains that show every student. At Barracalle Comt Branch he on the charts met me, and he pointed on meriting his horse whilst he walks. The village is again spacious and there are several good houses. A rotten jetty is evidence of decayed prospects and other evidences around wanting to show that St Vincent is not the place it was when King Sugar Parlayed his golden St. Vincent. 30 May, 1891. sceptic. I bid goodbye to the bride and bride groom and to the balladour emigrant and then Canon French he went to his house passing by the church in parts. The church is a pretty little one with handsome church and some good native carving in places. Mr Branch he introduced - a niece of the Misses Churchett - and the younger members of the French family received me kindly and I was soon at my ease. The house is small and it is far much smaller until Mrs D measured it by adding two rooms under gallery. It is situated at the mouth of a gap between high hills and she it is shut out from the trade winds, and benefited to the full blaze of the afternoon sun. She is then hot - very hot in the after noon but on the northern side there was not until late in the morning - the early part of the day is cool. There is a pretty little garden kept up by the older Miss Branch - two nice gets an asphodel in her trap, and all around she there is an arrest of the brightest green of which is very refresh to the eye. There hillside only seen small patches of coconut in the other islands and it seems curious here to see hundreds of one of the plants stretching for acres across the valley and up the hill sides. The cultivation of cannabie was going well, and much more

St. Vincent. 30 May, 1891. Probably then came cultivation. Just as we were about to sit down to dinner, a message came up from the village to say that Canon March had taken the bed-rooms ice and that it melted. Mr Branch having induced ice for a period that came in the passage boat and melted into the house. The latter however has flourished healthily & accused him of stealing the bride's ice. He said will be can't go with it. However, didn't find them a fair share yet. So the third line divided. After dinner we went out in the valley and I smoked a cigarette had a long comfort, and the Canon told me he has nearly going to Dominica to act for Mr Sturt, and his "Principal Cousin" had not treated him well. So I am rather hard I turned in pretty early, and found that I was in one of the Miss Branch's bedrooms by the usual kindness of guests generally stuck about the place. 31 May, 1891. Sunday. There is a capital bath, an old Canal has been diverted and turned into a deep stone bath, and the water is deliciously fresh and cool. But the bath is full of eel-fish & it must stand still for a recreation they go for our feet. Fortunately Mr Branch told me to leave and keep on moving, but one I stood still for a few seconds, and felt the eel-fish at my feet, and I jumped about then pretty St. Vincent. 31 May, 1891. Vigorously. I went to Church morning and evening. The service was rather life-drawn, and the singing very agreeable. Miss Branch played the little Reed organ. The Canon had had a lot of small booklets sent to him by the Attorney General, Mr Chippen, and he read something goodly pretty things instead of sermon in the evening. Hope that first the booklets are published by. 1 June, 1891. Monday. Left the passage boat this morning, and took up some plants from Mr Branch's garden, which I sent into the Carista to be taken care of. After a pleasant passage, I reached town by 11.30 am. well prepared for my lunch, which Mrs Brown from the head lady of the hotel speedily prepared for me. The hotel is pretty comfortable. W.B. Brown anxious to please his guests. To morning I got to Grand Table an estate on the windward side of the island belonging to the Hon. Dr. T. Hazelle. Mr H. has invited Sir George, the Royal Engineer so well known in the Lesser Islands & myself the Carista beside myself. He is to send a carriage from 6 am. to morrow, and he stay out two days. After leaving Grand Table I am to stop for a day as with S. Prince Austin. 2 June, 1891. Tuesday. Sir George came round in good time and unless him at 6.20 pm. Then we a capital pair of the American.

St Vincent 82 Jan, 1891. Leave the Carriacou and go some further on to Calliagana on the road I was know well. The roads are in excellent con- dition, and the day is fine, so we get on quite immensely. At Calliagana the road strikes inland for a number of miles, and passes through many estates, mostly situated like good old pleasant away from St. Joseph's estate, the great house which is at the top of hill, and went commanded a splendid view. The house we entered, is a very fine one, he saw also the sea coast again, and reach the Apple Estate, and drive along the sands, with the strong trade winds blowing in and carrying salt in abundance of saline particles. In places we drove along around that had been blown out of the cliffs, and below us, we see the Atlantic waves dashing against the base of the cliff and heaving into spray. So the road in these places is not one wide, if the hurricane to take sudden burst, we should certainly come to perils for the turns are sharp and frequent. We pass by Jumby Cottage the residence of Dr. Pierce Austin, and some time after reach the Colombia Road by a fine bridge, and some short roads came to a long tunnel through the "Black Rocks" which divide the windward side of Vincent into two parts; the southern a older settled part, and the northern which was long held possession of by the Poole's and is now called the 83 Jan, 1891. Caribbean country.". The tunnel is very well cut, and quite dry away from through it. Our coachman, who has required us with tales of jungles he spoke, said that the tunnel was very dangerous after dark, as there were lots of jungles in it, and he would not go through it for any sum of money. When we emerged from the tunnel we were on the Grand Table estate, so called from the long and wide stretch of black sands fronting a portion of it. The Grand Table River when it reaches this stretch of sand turns up to the south and then seems to lose itself in the surf itself. We soon reached the town of Ginger Town which lies between Grand Table and the sea. We drove through one of the streets, and noticed several good homes, and then we turned off towards the west and drove to the Grand Table house which is situated at under a cliff close 3/4 mile from the town. The former great home of the estate was built on a hill and is said blown down by a hurricane, so the present house was built one that specially excavated from the hill. Close to the back of the house is a perpendicular cliff, so that in the day time when the sun is shining well it cliff the house is almost untenably hot. The home is a very fine one and nicely furnished and Dr. Sturgill this

84 St Vincent 2 June, 1891. Molten Jack who had preceded us gave us a hearty welcome. After a hearty lunch we started and visited Milt, and Mr Hazell, from where I trail out for awhile. We rode through some arnroot cultivation, and the wind was a valley where a good deal of cacao had been planted; the trees were bearing fairly well, but they were not perfectly pruned. Grande Table is a very large place, and its principal cultivations are sugarcane and arnroot. About 150 hogs of sugar are made and about 1400 barrels of arnroot. Mr Hazell is now planting cacao and nutmegs, and in five years he might to ship a lot of the former. We came back from the cacao valley when we left Smith instructing Jack Hazell how to prune the trees, and passed by the sugarcane and arnroot mills. It is very important in the manufacture of arnroot to have pure water, and as Grande Table to offer this a large clear filter had been constructed some to purify the river water. But, state the land yields from 7 to 10 barrels of arnroot to the acre—a barrel weighing about 220 lbs. The reaping season is from September to May and planting operations are carried on during the wet months. The sea black is not inimical to the growth of arnroot, and steep hill sides, close to the sea, and exposed to the full force of the Atlantic winds, 85 Vincent. 2 June, 1891. are planted in arnroot, and they give excellent returns. Leaving the lands which are in the valley close to the tunnel, we rode by the river and then leaving it from right, we rode about 2 or 3 miles up the valley to the nutmeg cultivation. Here there are 40 to 50 very large trees, some of them realtable giants, and only almost of the Cocos nuts I had seen in Canada. Mr Hazell showed me a tree he often got a return of £15 a year from. There are also arnroot mills close to the nutmegs. We rode right through the grove, on horse treading on nutmegs which lay on the ground or they had fallen from the trees. A great number of young plants were growing up in all directions, but many of them, as I pointed out, are too close together. I got many black birds, like the Babblers to me, called her "black witch" she run in all directions, and I saw also many skrikes, and men ten hawks, among the culta along a large black hawk, as the arnfowls were scarce on the whole, and humming birds few conspicuous by their absence. We got back by "arch-trail time" and some guests began to drop in. Mr W. Yates, a nice young Scotchman—the manager, J. Bruce Austin, who had driven us from

St Vincent. 2 Jan, 1891 Jumby Cottage, Mr Louis Patu, the rich proprietor of the neighbouring estate, Mt Bentinck. The dinner table was beautifully decorated, for Mr Hayll had put on his servants, and the dinner was a luxurious one served in grand style. Champagne flowed like water. Mr Patu saw me the rest of them, placing Don Moore on his left, and he and all his guests were exceedingly pleasant in fact we all enjoyed ourselves immensely. After dinner he sent into the gallery and smoked and chatted and then went to our beds which bedrooms, but as to sleep for a long time on the place was insufferably hot. 3 Jan 1891 Wednesday. Got some good Cook stove implements today. Small treated me, so I played him a practical joke. Got hold of his servant, and told the boy to go all about and try to buy some implements for me. He trumped up reasons, and then I told him publicly what I had done to the amusement of us all, including Small himself. There is a grand bath attached to the house, in which we can get a good swim. We all enjoyed the bath immensely. After every early lunch for Jack Hayll, Don Moore and I start for Ovia at the extreme north end of the island; a ride there and back about 32 St Vincent. 3 Jan, 1891 miles. Small you with us after the day's work, which is the fit of the lava stream that we poured out of the volcano in 1812. We rode from Mt to Longton, and having the high street we turned down a side lane and came to the beach by the jetty, which has been rocked by Small Company. The jetty is very substantially built, and it runs right through the surf which he rocks on the sandy shore with much force in huge rollers. These are rough, but still a 'glass boat' very strong and high one sharp at both ends, we being launched over to ply between the head of the jetty and a schooner lying off a few cables cable lengths, and made fast to the buoy three moored. Men were men from the glass boat to the jetty and then held by half dozen men, several men were ready to run the boat down when an opportunity occurred after a big roller had broken and it was seen that smaller waves were coming in. The time came after about eight minutes waiting, and then with shouts all his clumsy looking boat was shoved off, several men jumped in view of both ends with water and sprang to the one, and at the same time

88 St Vincent. 3 June, 1891. The men in the jetty moved briskly forward, but a strain on the rope and then hauled away as though for their very lives. The boat had scarcely got along with the undertow of the last wave when another big one was seen advancing into a white crest. The tension exciting, and we spectators felt excited. Surely, surely, I thought, the wave must break and dash the boat to splinters and pulping, down or shatter the crew to death; and indeed such danger was imminent when the boat seemed for a moment to overside, but men at the stern in the nets that passed for the stern, with a long oar on a sudden got the boat back on, and by the strenuous exertions of those towing in the jetty, and them pulling in the boat, its bows jerked the advancing wave and rode over it just a few pieces only before it broke. The boat then bobbed up and down and was gradually hauled and pulled to the head of the jetty. The whole thing in, skilfully and skillfully done, and I would not have missed the sight for a lot. Better roke on through the Mount Pentrick Estate and came to the dry river. Prior to the volcanic eruption of 1812 a small river ran here to the sea, but during the 89 St Vincent. 3 June, 1891. The bed was filled up with ash, pumice and other ejecta from the volcano, some of which in washed down to the towards the low park. The stream now runs at the upper reaches, but about a mile from the road it disappears and runs admirably under the volcanic debris. But in times of heavy rain when the river is in flood it comes down on the bed of volcanic ejecta in a huge advancing roar which carries everything before it, and at times causes destruction of life to unlucky travellers. This "dry river" is about 200 yards across, and the whole of this wide bed is at times a rushing torrent. The scene is very curious and dreary. On all sides is volcanic debris. Ash, pumice, pumice and small pebbles are scattered around on, and in places the river at various ferrets - horse-scarred lines and channels in pumice direction. One can perceive still here the way in which during ages in the past much of the present configuration of the land in the west Indies has been formed by erosion and other agencies. This is scarcely a bit of any part of these volcanic islands that may yet be seen represented in miniature in the soft stuff of the Vincent Dry River. Deep ravines and deep valleys,

St Vincent. 3 June, 1891. Plateau, and rolling lands, and flat topped highlands, separated from island by perpendicular cliffs into a slope reaching half way up is seen in Dominica, in this island, and in the peculiar Roraima mountains of British Guiana. All these physical features are modelled each other in parts of the long dreamy tract called the dry peninsula of St Vincent. I left Portee bay, and he kindly undertook to collect some geological specimens from the place for myself & sent with the others. The next estate we came to was Rabaka, and saw some unusual tinted land near the road for a sign that we, south passing. The whole surface of the grounds was covered with white and purple "passionable" vine [illegible], and the blaze of colour in the bright sunlight was magnificent. This estate, out many others in the island, belongs to Sir Pater, the head of the firm of S.K. Paterson & Co., an old established banking concern in the island. Old Pater who now lives in England has acquired about half of the cultivable estate in St Vincent. Many be abandoned during the sugar crisis. On his behalf cultivated, and in all he reduced the pay of his managers and overseers to such a sum that they can barely make both ends meet with their salary. He still persists this system, St Vincent. 3 June, 1891. clean about £40,000 sugar. At least so I am told. And the money goes as of the island to enrich the board of an old man that names his employees have a good word to say from Of course all this creates a huge monopoly the evil effects of which here, it is dilutive by many, kept back the prosperity of the island immensely. The contrast to Grenada is great. In St Vincent the proprietor suffers, and no man is all supreme. In Grenada the proprietors are many and no man is supreme. St Vincent sticks to the old cultivation and is poor. Grenada has gone in for other products and is rich. At Rabaka there is a jetty belonging to S.K. Pater, and some of the produce of the long line of Pater estates is shipped at this place. The sea however, permits to roll in greater than in Bengalton and it must be impossible to ship anything in rough weather. By the way on our ride although Batiboro, Bragg Hill and Tawana estates, all five properties belonging to Sir Pater. From Morone and I were especially struck with the splendid stonework of the buildings forming the sugar factories on these properties. The aqueducts carrying the water to turn the mills has carried across the mill yard and over the road for long distance on magnificent stone arches,

St Vincent. 3 June, 1891 beautifully turned, and having some degree of ornamentation. The buildings and aqueduct must have cost large sums of money, but then they were built in the old slavery day, when negroes (sic) cost a ton, and now it is worth about a canel ra. It is called, [illegible] fourth of that price. The main aqueduct, is several miles long, and, owing to the configuration of the country, it must have been very costly in construction. After leaving Furena we came to Orwell Village, where there is a considerable population. On making inquiries I was told that there were no yaws people cases, but on making a house to house visitation I discovered several children and grown up persons with the disease. One woman said that a year or so ago nearly all the people had yaws in the place, and now persons were carefully bathing in sea water, and only drinking some of the water. Also a decotion of a plant very common in these islands called 'Mervin' or 'Veryvain' was administered to the patients. The seaside grape, Crecoba unfera, is very plentiful along the coast, and even for some distance in the interior, as in most of the islands. For the last days past, the trade wind has been blowing very hard, and a good deal of the sea spray is blown for some distance inland. Thus an awful destruction to me for my spectacles got encrusted with the

To Vincent. 9th 3 June, 1891. slim particles, a m-bound ship in a stiff breeze, and had to limp them continually or look 'on the high and lowly'. After leaving Sucre we had practically come into the wilds of Vincent. Here and there are little patches of cultivation, the gardens of the yellow Caribs who inhabit this district. The road was very pretty, and shady, for everywhere rose the beautiful wildness and luxuriance of tropical vegetation, and through the sea-side grape trees which fringed the road, we got glimpses of the rock bound coast with the white spray or the waves dashed in full force against the volcanic barriers to their further progress. As we neared the sea in places, the roar of the dashing waves was like supreme thunder. We then passed through a small settlement at Sandy Bay and I dismounted to find out whether you resided amongst other people. With the help of Jack Hazell, and he helped me lot him over or Overland, I secured two little Carib children with yours. Mr. Kernahan, one of the Surveyors at present engaged under the direction of W. Reeve in surveying alone between the Cornlands and private property, had a chat in this settlement, for his work had lain him for some time. I had met him in the Hotel, and he is a calculating chap. His journey had not yet returned.

St Vincent. 95- 3 June, 1891. Built a cross the road in moss-sunk, below the spars at the edge. On a high stone wall, and below this again is a steep declivity leading to the south in sea at the bottom. This place is called Bloody Bridge, once not its being the scene of one of the many sanguinary [illegible] conflicts in the Civil War. We soon came to the pretty little village of Oria, and on passing the church we found a marriage of a Portuguese with a Canto girl was almost take place. The marriage guests had walked in their finery from Victoria Village – a new Canto settlement in the heights of Sandy Bay – and they with the bride and bridegroom were waiting about the porch for the clergyman (American) who is a coloured man – he attended the marriage, and wished the bride “free from joy” much to the pleasure full present. We went to the manager’s house and there had lunch, which the Hazel’s had sent on fresh; and, afterwards, walked up the hill terminating the promontory, to enable Son Moore to do his work, which consisted in examining and valuing the ordnance property. For, in the days of old, there was a small fort and garrison here. The powder magazine is still well preserved, and old guns underlying about. A nice little barn in good preservation, belonging to the Grace of the estate was built on the top of the hill, and the view from it was very fine, and it must be very

Minicent. 3 June, 1891. healthy, full of the cold Atlantic breeze an comfortably blowing. From here we get a glimpse of the island of St Lucia about 25 miles across the channel. Altogether there are 12 acres of Induance property here. To the north of the frontory is Oria Bay and shipping is easy here except in very boartime weather. The road runs on for three miles further to Fancy on the upper port side, and terminates there. The only way to get thence to the leeward side, except riding Rockall along the windward coast, is to take a canoe to Moore Ronds villers well down the leeward side of the island, where there is a tract of land reserved for the use of the Black Caribs. The black Caribs live at Moore Ronde, as they did not offer the English in the Canes; was they received better treatment than their yellow half brothers. Most of whom of the Caribs here are removed to the little rocky island of Multivie where many died of fever and starvation, and those remaining are after a while deported to the island of Beaton in the gulf of Honduras, when some of their descendants now live. With Mr Beach, the manager of Oria Estate, we visited the cannots works. The underground stews, arheines of the plant are down there, in a well with both as far run by Minicent. 3 June, 1891 into press. The pulp and fibrous matter is then carefully into to pieces of decreasing sized meshes, which remove all the film, husk and allow the starch grains to pass. After going through the piece, the starch water is canned, or run into settling tanks when it is allowed to remain until a sharp hard the starch is deposited on the bottoms, and clear straw remains, when sufficient deposition of starch has taken place the straw husk supernatant water is drawn off by means of holes in the settling tanks which are opened by pulling out the plugs. The cannoes is then dug out with clean spades, past on lumps. These lumps are first on trays, with wire bottoms, and put in tiers in the drying house. The house is closed at the sides by price putting so as to allow free circulation of air. In all the operations the greatest carelessness is observed, for therein the value of the produce will be greatly deteriorated. When dry the cannoot is packed in clean flour barrels lined with blue denim wrapping paper and the mark of the Estate and the number of the barrel is sealed on the package. The Oria cannoots has an excellent name in the great markets of the world, and every effort appears to be used to keep up the reputation of the make. We bid good bye to Mr Beach, the manager, and

98 St Vincent. 3 June, 1891. proceeded on our return journey when we got to Sandy Bay for saw the marriage party about 14 persons in all slowly tending their way up the narrow track to the small village of Victoria, and a little later we heard loud shouts and the firing of guns in token of the home coming of the happy pair. We stopped again at Croxton Village and had some coco-nut milk, and I was able to obtain 2 more stone implements. We came across a lot of old people walking home from their "gardens," and I pleased many of them greatly by addressing them as "Ma'am" or "Auntie" or "Uncle" and wishing after their health. On the sugar estates patches of land are given out to the labourers, who grow yam roots and ground provisions for a year, and then the land is again put into sugar canes. This primitive system of rotation is said to answer well. When we passed Georgetown police station I was stopped by the sergeant and handed a lot of letters that the Administrator had sent out to us, and on getting to Grand Table Hill I got all one that had come in the morning by the island post. As nearly all these letters are official ones from the Southern Islands the Surgeon-in-Chief, Dr H'Nisll was much impressed. There was also a letter from Dr O'Carroll the 99 St Vincent. 3 June, 1891 medical officer of the district, who was invited to dine last night and who waited came present on purpose. He had been directed by the Gov't to assist me by giving means in his power, as he should have called on me before this little occasion we always go to come to see him at once professionally. I had arrived some after we left in the morning—Although I'm pretty tired, and anxious for a bath, I got away from again and rode back to Georgetown soon to be back in time for dinner. On getting to the farm, I found the place quite tidy and two nice little girls all dressed and dirty—O'Carroll's children. After a time O'C came out in his night-shirt and said "Hallo! Meikle old fellow Oh delighted to see ye". This fussy man I had never seen before! He then said, "I'mn at it, will ye," one of the started to the bedroom and brought me a pair of drawers which he persuaded to pass on his night shirt. He then considered himself sufficiently dressed to receive company, and began to talk in a rambling way about almost everything under the sun. The poor fellow had lost his footing on declining health. He went down very ill and had just taken a new bath, and he begged me to examine him and give a certificate for sick leave. I at first declined, as I said the Clinical Surgeon so the

100 St Vincent 3 June, 1891. I was shown into a room, but afterwards descended and said he would not ride to town. According to an examination I gave him the required certificate as he was really ill. He came pretty frank with him in regard to the cause of much of his illness, and he promised me to answer, and pleaded on the cause, the great trouble he had had. His wife was in Paris, and one of his children had been very ill. He was in the French army during the Franco-Prussian war and had married a French marquise. She had taken him and his wife's photographs. A few years ago she was a fine looking fellow, and now he is a wreck. He is, I know, a first Horse Ruler, and he showed me a letter from Ireland. I told him I thought that the frightened ploughman was running Ireland, and he promptly replied that he didn't care a devil what she becomes of them all now. On getting back to Grand Table I was received warmly by my genial host, who had all the same graces as had been at dinner last night. We had another banquet, and afterwards carriage was brought round, and we all went to Wolvis' Internment at Mr Dentwich's. We were preceded by Mr Patu, and Miss Mary the Frenchman, and had a pleasant evening with Sirguis, Muni & Williams. We got back to Grand Table just before the rain came down heavily. 101 St. Vincent. 4 June, 1891. It rained in torrents all night, awfully tropical storm, and as I had to shut all the glass windows, it was exceedingly hot and close. All the others left early in the morning, Jack Howell on a bicycle, and the others in carriages, so they were going back to town, and we anxious to get across the ford at over the Yamba River at Aigle, before it became impossible. So I was left alone in my plan to wait for Dr Bruce Austin who had gone the previous night to sleep at Georgetown, and intended to call for me this morning, or for me to go into Jumby's Cottage to stay with him for a few days. But the rain came down, down, down, and he came on. So I went to inquire what was to do and he said come on to them, so he ran with Kenneth storm-stayed at Georgetown at the old police station. So I went in and met him cantering straight down the main street to join me. Whether had a consultation or whether we should go on, the stream would be very swollen, and at last decided to join Kenneth when we found searching for a dry place in the old station so that he could put a comparatively dry jackboot. He had no shoes, and finally decided to make do with it. So we left Kenneth behind,

102 Ivricent. 4 June, 1891. his humid lot, he could not get into Sandy Bore and his duties, and he dared not attempt Kingston over his fresh heat. We sympathised with him in a serious way, and he received on ends of comfort with a smiling face and good heart. I made an awful ride to Jambly Cottage. The rain came down like a waterfall, and the wind came in from the stormy sea in heavy gusts. I crossed the Grand Stables with the intention to enliven girls; but my bluey pants carried us on without wish. When we got to the cottage service half-drowned, but Mr. Bruce Austin threw us a cocktail that warmed us up, and after a change washed a capital breakfast-lunch, and my kind host and sisters soon made me feel thoroughly at home. Austin is a splendid fellow, nephew of Dr. H. Austin the Primate of the West Indies, and his wife is a sprightly and a good mind little lady. They have one child, a boy about seven and a funny little fellow. Austin's brother is living with them now. He is in business somewhere in the United States. In the afternoon as the weather cleared up somewhat we go to ride through some open country. When Rainford Point against which the Atlantic rolls thunder, and then 103 Ivricent. 4 June, 1891. ride through a village called Philderton, and came to the Adelphi Estate belonging to J.H. Baker. On this property, sage and acreage is green. I met Grace the manager, a Scotchman, who was the peculiar name of Hodgson, and is familiarly called "Hardy." He is a most amusing, witty fellow, and not in any way like Dickens' character in Pickwick. He and I soon became very friendly, and under his study to be allowed to accompany us; and therefore, wherever we went Hardy was duly informed, and he made one of the party. Leaving Adelphi we came to a village on Spring Estate where I saw lepers and syphilitic patients galore. Austin, who appears to have a very delicate nose, could not stand the hut when the lepers are, as he said they had made him ill when he went before, but I rather billy in and sit down and had a long talk about themselves and their families with the poor wretches. Afterwards we came to Peruvian Vale where a fine large police station had been built by a Captain Dinton, a former Inspector of Police who had acted as Administrator. A police station was quite unnecessary here and the building would make an excellent cottage hospital. Leaving Peruvian Vale, we rode along a fine stretch of road, between

104 St Vincent. 4 June, 1891. which and somfully [illegible] inland for a few stitches, and which is used as a race course at time. Som[one] time we came to the garden Jambu tree, which we cured without mishap, and then took up to the fine new house of the manager of the Apple Estate. The manager, a Mr Mitchell, was a genial Scotchman who made us a hearty welcome, and then produced the “churley,” of which we all solemnly partook, pledging each other the white. Mr Mitchell he, overy strong accent, and bouldy, in the society of his country-men became more Scotch towards us; very pleasant to meet him at old times. Mitchell had formerly been in R.N. Dale’s employment, and about the palace of the manager, we cut down he refused to go on with the but returned to Scotland when he became a farmer; but the present owner of the Apple Estate, having met him, induced him to come out by making him an advantageous offer. In first hunted at your ears and I found some Orbs; affecting. They had brought the disease with them from Trinidad. We continued back and got to Jumbly Cottage in time to partake of a good dinner. After dinner Mitchell and Smiddy turn up. Smiddy by the way had worn in the after- noon, a light tweed coat with a big dark patch at the 105 St Vincent. 4 June, 1891. back across the shoulder, and he turned up on the morning with the same coat. Sam told that he was this remarkable garment from one of his wife. The W.S. not getting over well together, as the latter bullied him, stuck music and snaps, both Mitchell and Smiddy singing very well. The latter always walked to the middle of the room before he began to sing; and then he strove an altitude, and his appearance in his hali- coloured clothes was undoubtedly funny. Maurice Austin played the guitar, and he sang a whistling song called “the Yeller girl”. The song ended up with a chorus at the end of which were the words “over he whistled when his wife was dead”; and Mitchell then called out “sing over Smiddy, dye her that much to two men intense amusement. 5 June, 1891. Friday. At 2 a.m. there was an earthquake which lasted about 12 seconds, the most in me arching one mile in four north to south. Heavy rain fell all night and during the morning. I posted letters down and put them into Kingston by the postman who called at the house in passing. Maurice Austin goes for the mail which comes in the evening; and as he rides into town, and the rain has cleared up, & St Vincent I decided to ride

106 St Vincent 5 June, 1891 a few miles with him and then go up the Mariagua Valley to see after some people there and at the village of Mero potamie. Dr Austin starts at 11 am and Lordgwen joins us. Just as we get to Penuran Valley police station the rain comes down again, but we have to go into the station or Dr Austin is summoned to give evidence in a case before the Magistrate at Lynch. W Lynch is a Dominican and he lives to the south of Kingstown, he was invited to dine with us at Stander Hotel but he refused, and so I did not meet him. We passed some time at the station and as W Lynch did not turn up, we were more jolly. Maurice Austin had gone on when the rain came down, for he was advised to push on lest the Yambree river become too swollen for him to ford. We did not leave the river at the lower ford by Apple but struck along road mine to the south, and leaving the coast side of the quite Mariagua valley. The road lay frequently along the south side of the valley and the river now dashing along its rocky bed showered for a mile below. The scenery was splendid, grand, and the vegetation was luxuriant and essentially tropical. In fact the scene put us very much in mind of Dominica. After a while we came to an upper reach 107 St Vincent. 5 June, 1891. of the river, and crossed to the south side and pro- ceded up the valley. Cacao and nutmegs were planted in places, and the soil and climate was evidently well suited to them. The river windings were frequent, and we had to cross the stream in several places. Some of the ford, as for instance the one just below the village of Mero potamie, was deep as the river was swollen by the heavy rains. The village was always on, and the principal store a shop was one of some pretentions, we stopped here and had bread and cheese and beer, and I bought a capital pipe with a patent arrangement for catching the sweet wine. The stockpipe was away, but his wife hunted up some young coco, fame, and in a short time a number of children badly affected came trooping in for examination. We rode much further up the valley than Mero potamie, and visited the village of Everham where Dr Austin had a patient with an abscess of the liver. I saw the case with him in consultation, and advised that the man should be sent to the hospital in Kingstown. At Everham I got two capital Cast iron implements - battle axes, and after leaving along came running after us with another good one - the Shilling Buck I saw further

"St Vincent" 5 June, 1891. delighting the furies. On large one I tried into my saddle, and Swordgrass anxious to make him- sel[illegible] insisted on carrying the two others, which he put in the pockets of his many coloured jackets, and the pig and sheep threatened to cause a pollution of continuity between the various parts of the gardens and the river and brigher patches. After leaving Everhorn we turned towards the south and passing through Aken Estate we rode on to Calder, and I noticed some extant young cacao cultivation on that Estate. At Calder we saw the manager, Mr Taylor - another Scotch man and a great friend of Austin and Sundry. Up the Maracaqua valley I saw a miniature water wheel running a small cornst mill. The small cornst crop of the peasants are brought to the mill, owned by another peasant proprietor, and the roots are converted into cornst the mill-man receiving his share of the produce. At Calder we saw very little the partial effects of the hurricane, which seemed to have blown in flows. In some places trees were blown apiece, and in other place much smaller broken plants were left intact although their baskets were fully exposed to the south westerly wind come "St Vincent" 5 June, 1891 in full force. In coming back we called at Apple and Mr Mitchell told us that the canals in which we have Moore and Parilla was nearly carried away visiting the river. The river was still in flood but he managed to get on, and continued back to Jumbly Cottage in time to save a wetting as the rain came down very heavily just as we got in. It was a very briskerine night, and the mail steam must have caught it. As we were smoking on puffs after dinner, Mr Austin called me that the steamer was in sight. He went to the back of the house and watched the lights which appeared as lanterns in the far distance. 6 June, 1891. Saturday. I intended to return to Kingston this morning, but the Austins told me here off so there is to be a criket match and pic-nic at Apple this afternoon, and my kind and huties wants me to accompany them. As Austin says he will drive us into town to morrow morning I am compelled to give over. The day opens with heavy rain and it goes on raining all the morning. Our mail letters arrive about noon. The rain clears up by the afternoon and we start for Apple. Mr Austin ride on to Adelphi towards the Swedreams,

110 St Vincent. 6 June, 1891. Whilst the D^r & I ride to Macey, a place or bridge at the back of Adelphe, tree Mr Grant whose late husband had a fine collection of Carib stone implements. We are welcomed by Mrs Grant and her two daughters, but I am disappointed about the implements as it now appears that Mr Grant has sold them all. I was surprised to find one of the little daughters of the Rev Dr Taupin at Macey, and it turns out that Mrs Taupin is a Miss Grant, so we had along talk of Tobago and the Tobagoneans. The younger Miss Grant is going on to the picnic and she rides down with us. The road is a villainous one, and very steep. But we get to Adelphe at last and am introduced to Mrs Sharpgrass, she is a sprightly little lady and she makes herself very pleasant. Nobody is perspicuous in new clothes, but he don't this by his wife's advice. The Jambou river is still in flood but we get across without mishap, and Mitchell welcomes us to Appleton his broad Scotch accent. After several liquid refreshments cricket is played, and a young fellow named Dommet, a son of the Colonial Engineer, as us splendid bat. He drew the ball enormous distances. After whiles also came from Grenada to play the St Vincent people, and 111 St Vincent. 6 June 1891 Dommet beat the Grenadians off his own bat. Owing to the rainy weather a number of the members of the Carib Country Cricket Club 'ave about, and some of the negro labourers was pressed into the service, to make up an eleven. One or two of them played remarkably well. There was a curio, one black and blacks playing together and all the Carib labourers in their bright garments were looking on, and thus added an Oriental element to the scene. After a time I left the field and went into the gallery of the town to join the ladies. The cricketers came in later on and strongly wanted to know why I had left the field. I said I'd come to enjoy the scenery of the district. Looking hard at his wife, she said, 'beauty is a matter of individual opinion, but as for youth I don't know when you will find it here'. Mr Sharpgrass playfully hit at him with his fan and called him a 'horror' much to the amusement of all. Mitchell had a grand speech for dinner and we had very merry meal, Mrs Taupin's conversation of wit and by play with his wife being very amusing. In the evening musicians came in, and we had

St Vincent 112 6 June, 1891. Sunday. As all the gentlemen were in riding costumes the right must have been curious to one looking. When we started back it was late and quite dark. Mr. Austen, a feather ride, passed on with some other ladies after he had passed the swollen river, & they broke into a canter. Soon, Austen struck! I came up to him going sitting by the road side and covered with mud. He had been thrown from heron which had galloped away. Having it was caught by Hardy who sent after it in full tilt, and after which for his front back on his steed he resumed the journey at a quieter pace. His front leg was fractured then hurt. More or less miles before he got to bed after a thoroughly disagreeable outing. 7 June, 1891. Sunday. The day turned out to be a fine one, and Austen and I left after an early breakfast for Keigston, in his carriage with a pair of ponies. The ancient bridle along the river bank and the drive has very pleasant. In few hours; the Saturday before at the foot of the road, we were always troubled by an old tree that fell from her's branch across the path. As we pass opposite the bank he heard an ominous cracking and Austen concluded up the animals, and with shots they just cleared the bank as the live came St Vincent. 113 7 June 1891 crashing down into an avalanche of earth under me. After more seconds we should have had the whole man on top of us. Some time this creature passed through the old town of Calliaqua, and exhibited its faulty character; now produced many dangers on account of the fast firing coal reefs. Hudson has been lying and smelly, so that it is very unhealthy, but there are several good hours in the place, and churches, play houses and stores that are treated. We reach Tom at 10.30 a.m. having been three and half on the journey. After breakfast we got Mr. Adams and have a long chat with him. I went to Berrimulie to consult operate on Mr. Branch who has Epithelioma of the face. I had trouble in consultation and advised the operation. 8 June 1891 Monday. In the afternoon I. Arbys and I get a carriage and cross some cells. We got in the Train on the alternate found, Dr. Will Durant, and the "Angels" top, and after wards Doctor St. Gwett. H.G. Hayle has a fine house at Sim Hill, and he has a nice billiards room which is a great comfort to have in the tropics. I. Arbys, Berritt & I dine at the lake fields in the evening, and have a good time, on W. is a capital host.

114 St. Vincent. 9 June 1871 Tuesday. The wind comes in today and I got a nice long letter from H. Allen who are well. In the morning I took a long ride to the north of the town. Passing the botanic garden and the road that leads to Government Town, the road zig-zags up the side of a ridge overlooking the Kensington Valley at the north. This ridge which is a prolongation of one from about Henderson's terminates abruptly at the sea in a hill on which is built Fort Charlotte. From the top of the ridge the view of the town and the country behind is very fine. Along the road are many Java plum trees, Syzigium jambolanum, which have sprung up from seeds of fruit gathered in the botanic garden. There are a great many trees in the garden, some of them are very old and must have been planted when the gardens were first planted. Proceed as far as an abandoned estate called Cowden Park, and then re-turned. We went to have started today for the forenoon in the schooner Keewatin, but Messrs J.V. Paton & Co. could not spare the vessel from dropping sugar as in consequence of the late disastrous weather she had been unable to go backward. Proceeded to Georgetown after lunch. The Administrator and Chief Colonial Surgeon were to have gone out at the last moment they were unable to

St Vincent. 9 June, 1891. Leave, so the party dwindled down to St Aubyn & I, but Jack Hozell & Reeve promise to meet us at Mustique an island belonging to the Hozells on Saturday so that we can spend Sunday & part of Monday on the island. In the afternoon we made preparation for the trip, a schooner having been got from the firm of Hozells. 10 June, 1891. Wednesday. This morning at breakfast St Aubyn & I invite Alan Delample to accompany us, and he at once accepts on invitation so man a party of three. Mr Labade, the Chief of Police, puts aboard some new police muskams four, and he sends also a saluting gun, two rifles, ammunition and the blue ensign with the St Vincent arms. St Aubyn also carries always Cepend and a Constable of the Vice Force. I take a servant boy, and the Company charter another recommended by the Hozells. We have 2 cut pipes and plenty to eat & drink. So we are likely to be comfortable on board the schooner 'Wasp'. We might anchor at 11 am, run up our flag, fire a gun and we off to the Grenadines. Our first place put is the island of Bequia, which, after Carriacou, is the largest of the Grenadines. Bequia lies within ten miles of St Vincent, and it is plainly seen from the South part of that island. As we said

Bequia. 10 June, 1891. out of Kingstown Bay the breeze freshens and we beat along at a good pace. In the channel between Minivet and Bequia we get a good towing, and we all keep very quiet until we are under the lee of Bequia then we brighten up considerably. A little afternoon we turn the headland of Admiralty Bay and stand in for the village called grandiloquently Admiralty Town. The bay is a fine large one with a shelving sandy beach, but we have to tack twice before we can get near enough to the town to anchor - we drop the anchor at one o'clock and fire one gun and run up the bany's. The noise of the gun causes nearly the whole population to turn out, and the people line the beach and pass audible remarks on our appearance as we land in the little row boat. Mr. J. D. Rice, the principal man of the place receives us, and we go to the police court when St Aubyn is to hear his cases and collect taxes. He sends out the two policemen with pummoms, after they and the batle have arranged our luncheon in the upper room of the Court house. After lunch we go to Mr Rice's house, which is a good large one but in rather bad repair. While St Aubyn is settling his magisterial work, Dulyphle and I walk through

Begua. 10 June, 1891. Admirlty town and the village of Hamilton which is only half a mile from Admirlty. The census returns had shown 'no case' of yaw in Begua, but within an hour I had by boat to home institution discovered no less than 25 persons affected with the disease - the people called it Eczena with an accent on the second e. There was no attempt at concealment, and the people were very friendly informed. The houses were as a rule small, dirty, and very ill constructed. When it was known that I was a doctor all kinds of people flocked to me for advice; and they were much disappointed when I told them that I was no true to doctor them - that I had no medicine with me. However I noticed some plants with medicinal virtues and I prescribed for many by advising directions of these plants, and by prescribing Castor oil and sea water - both of which could be easily obtained. The island at the census of 1881 contained a population of 1118 of which 517 were males, and 591 females. The census returns for this year have not yet been published. The food of the people is principally of vegetable nature - Cassava, pigeon peas, indians corn and sweet maize

Begura. 10 June, 1891. In the afternoon Mr Rice and I go for a ride to the south side of the island. We ride along the bay first, and I could not help admiring its white sandy beach, and the fine and commodious anchorage. We then struck into the interior passing by the ruins of an old and substantial sugar factory. A good number of stones have been dug out of the walls by the people to use in constructing their small huts. Cattle power appear to have been used to grind the canes, and the mill was arranged differently to what it is in stone more modern mills. A high, wide circular wall was built up about 10 feet high, and the cattle walked round the circular pond any on this wall and turned the mill which was in the centre of the enclosure. Access to the mill was gained by means of an arched stone entry. This disposition of the mill and cattle is much more convenient than that now in vogue in many of the W.I. islands. We crossed the main ridge of the island, at an elevation of about 500 ft, and descended by ravine to the windward side. From this ridge there is a lovely view seawards; Palmarus on, the valley stretching and widening out to the shore which was fringed by the white surf. To the north

Begin 10 June, 1891. Closer the beach were the white buildings of the shaling station, and away as seen the small islands of Balliceause and Baltivia with Mustique further away. The setting sun lit up the cliffs of Baltivia with brilliant shades of green and brown, which looked lovely against the clear blue sky. The road down the valley was very bad but as lost re traced our way over the rough stones, and through the bushes growing in wild profusion and reached the cast at a place called Friendship. Here by the side of the road I saw a hideous looking leper talking to a pretty young coloured girl who came from a home nearby. This leper a young negro had all his fingers and toe gone, and he lived like a rat in a hole. Against a large ficus tree, with small oval leaves and many aerial roots, he had erected in a sloping direction a few old boards, a piece of galvanised iron, and some long flat whale bones, and under this primitive hana- t to shed the leper had lived for years, taking as the munificent allowance of a shilling a month allowed him by the government of St Vincent by begging of his poor neighbours! The leprosy was of the anasthetetic kind. Riding along the coast road we turned by a headland

Begonia. 10 June, 1891 6. White Plumeria. 7 Erythroxylum. 8 Capparis amygdaloides. 9 C. Cyano phyllaphna. 10 An Inga with beautiful red flowers (seeds collected and sent to Keew.) '14 good creeping Cocos. 12 An Opuntia with bright yellow flowers. 13 An iris-like plant. 14 Mangach (Cindea). 15 Mestloteo (Dianthus.) 16 Black sage. 17 Lantana (used as an emetic.) 18 Manchineel along sea shore. 19 Zillandsrias. 20 Ogan pisida. 21 Ilene lobata. 22 Calotropis. The fauna is not large. The bird most frequently seen is the 'Black-bird' a 'Begonia sweet' so called from the cry resembling "Begonia sweet! Sweet!" This bird Decidulus Luminosus is peculiar inasmuch as the females are of a dirty brown color and this fact is, Shelumi, not mentioned in any Ornithology. A peculiarity of Beguina, and also of Union Island, is that the 'Cock-rico' (Ortalis ruficauda) of Tobago are met with in the woods covering the higher peaks. The bird was first noticed in Beguina, according to W Rice about 12 years ago. No one knows how it got into the island. They are very timid birds, and as some attempts to shoot them they are increasing and multiplying. * 23 Solanum aculeata.

Bequia. 10 June, 1891. Rice invited us to stay and sleep at his house. But St Aubyn and I decided to go on board as we were off to Union Island before day break, and so Mr Rice was well. Duley also stayed, however, but went aboard just for him at 4 a.m. During my stay at Bequia I got 3 fine stone implements, one apparently unique. There was a good deal of general sickness on the island. Influenza & dentistry being common-- I saw Mr Rice professionally much to his husband's comfort. A doctor is much sought in these islands. When we got on board we found the negro captain quietly slumbering in St Aubyn's dog house. We turned him out and he became panicky-shrewd. I pretended to get into a violent passion, and threatened that the schooner at once taken back to Kingston where the owners put another Captain aboard. The effect was splendid. The panicky Captain became apologetic and polite, and thereafter behaved us with the most deference and consideration-- As we were just going to sleep, a small Bequia slop came alongside with a great clatter and much noisy talking of the crew. On board was a man with

Desire. 10 June, 1891. [illegible] along [illegible] in his face and upper lip. At the dance at Bogot Farm Village they had been a drunken row, and one of the other guests had fallen on this man and actually bitten him to and fro into revoltion! The wounded man was gone into Kingstown in St Vincent for medical attendance, and his friend had boarded us to get Aubyn to issue a warrant for the arrest of the party who had bitten his whole-hom friend. St. Aubyn calls up the police, I had his officer do it out while I examined the man (see whether any artery was bleeding.) I had no means of dressing the wound correctly. The scene was a very curious one. On the light of two dim lamps, the way-fate in pyjama sleeping suit advancement the oath to the man with the bandaged face, and around in all positions on the little deck and against the raffing we standing or reclining, the two fishermen, the sailors on boat and the slop. The vents were rising and falling on the house, and beyond the gleaming of light was nothing but storm and darkness. The whole scene was wild in the extreme and I shall never forget it.

125- Urumi. June 11, 1891 Thursday Dalrymple came aboard at 4.30 am and we weighed anchor and started for Urumi—the southern-most of the St Vincent Grenadines. When we sailed past Rennie Island it was very rough as we were in for the full sweep of the Atlantic. Rennie Island, lies to the west of Isle de A Decarie, and it gets its name from the number of Rennie-Columba canaries found on it in the season. Dalrymple, who had had no sleep on account of toothache was very sea sick, and the poor fellows face indicated utter misery. St Aubyn and I were all right and we enjoyed the sail im- mensely. We had a good stiff breeze and the old schoner went along pretty well. We sailed past Canouan, and Petit Canouan, leaving Mustique away to the East, then we passed a small rock called Culotie Island against which the surf broke in high masses of white foam. Then we sailed past Mayaro and ran along the passage between that Island and Urumi. The scenery was magnificent. Urumi with its five peaks stood out against the dep blue backgrouns of Carriacou in the distance, to the East of Mayaro were the pretty Tobago cays, and right ahead were little St Vincent, little Tobago, and

126 Unein. 11 June, 1891. The splendid peak of little Martinique loominy over them all. After a while we were skillfully piloted by our Captain through an intricate passage between rocks and coral shoals to calm water opposite the village of Clifton, and then dropped anchor at 6 o'clock having been 5½ hours doing the run. We landed and walked to Clifton House. The shore was a white sandy one with any amount of sea-weed, shells, and drift-seeds and work on the beach. I picked up a large palm seed that had evidently come from Brazil. Just beyond the beach was a thicket of manchineel and sea-side grape trees, and beyond them the land was somewhat marshy and riddled with crab-holes, a little further inland an stable of cotton-brushes, the crop having been ruined. We wound our way through the marshy land and ascended the hill on which Clifton House stood. The vegetation is composed principally of Lantana Camara, wild black Dog-Cadia sp., Cupreum Bacatum, Blumeria alba, and the floor is carpeted by a small plant called "turtle weed" because the turtles feed on it. I gathered specimens of this weed for Kerr. The only birds I saw were the black birds by Quiscula. 127 Unein the long tail' 11 June, 1891 Lumino and Crotaphaga aurea, a thrush, Mimius gilvus, and the little dove Zenaida martimica. The parrots and the cockrobes are found in the hills, as is also the West Indian Cuckoo in the Spring. Along the head-side of the hill in the village of Clifton. In the day I find the hill had been terraced with stone and on the wide ledges the pig's houses has been built, and here they were still, or rather new-houses in the place of the old ones. The huts were built of wattles with rattled sides and thatched roofs, and they were quite twenty chicken-holes. Between the village and the flat top of the hill was an enormous stone cistern with a circular stone roof. This cistern gathered the rain-water from the roof of the "quat-horn" and it is, I think, the largest cistern of the kind I have seen for there are no others in the island. It is necessary for the rain to be conserved when possible. The house is built entirely of stone, but it is terribly out of repair, and the roof leaks very much. It was built sometime last century and it must have been a five minutes at its time. At a little distance from the house on a spur of the hill is an old hut in which I found an ancient pipe-powder-gun.

130 uncor. 11 June, 1891. walked on ahead, but he soon came back for rain had fallen in the morning and the place was muddy. I skirted around preventing passing along a goat track which proved for a road, and then circled to the shore and rode through swampy grass toward towards the sea with mangroves. Further out planked across a muddy flat were large clumps of mangroves. The swamps in this place must cover fully 100 acres of surface, and in dark nights they are dangerous. About months ago the Act African clergyman of the place, a curate by Mr Donora - a dark colored man, lost his life trying to enforce in these swamps. The lute is a curious one. His said that one night a green lived him on and left him to finish in the miasma. He was rescued however, after some hours his cries having attracted the notice of a person passing along the road. He had pushed up to his arm into and in less than another hour he would have disappeared. Entirely- He died soon afterwards from the results of the exposure. By this swamp we met old Mulzac going on to Clifton to see the magistrate. He insisted on Delagible letting his home, for she was careful to tell D. very impressively, that he had no knowledge whatever of the three I have riding. 131 uncor. 11 June, 1891. All along the road running up the hills slopes was a good deal of wood, but the trees were small which is due to the constant cropping of the wood by birds to Bombado when a good deal is consumed for fuel. A trade in fine wood is also done between Biscay and Barbados. Along the roads we found Ashlon white cedar very plentiful and on one I got a fine clump of an Orchid - Prasocella cucullata. Among us in the hills the long straight flowering stalks of the so-called 'aloe' - Frecerea cubensis, are very con- spicuous. The village of Ashlon is large and populous. It too is built on attenuated hill, but it has straggled to the foot of a hill and has crept little way along a cultivated valley leading across the north side of the island. She called in Mr Donora, the widow of the clergyman who had been lured to his death by the green and Mrs B. who are all in bed with grief and rheumatism as she told me received us one of the other in audience. She told me she could not understand the mystery surrounding her husband's death and she asked me to preside for her which I did. Her daughter shortly under black girls but with nice

132 lluni. 11 June, 1891. manners entertained me by showing me a scrap book in which cheeky jest with ridiculous dropped and tawdry pictures with sentences written by Bishop of Bradeson and Antigua and often prints of weirs & influence who had doubts been asked to write one- thng in the book on their visit to the place. The Church has smell and poor looking, and, altogether, poverty has stamped on everything in the island. Dulyrple and I made an almost hour to house kitchen and I found several cases of yaws which the people called "mangey" or itch." One woman told me that the disease was very bad a few years ago. She said it was "a bad sickness, and is nearly kill all de people some year ago." One woman who was very bad has had the disease 4 years. On riding back I botanised along the road and found the following plants in addition to them mentioned- 1. Fernwood. 2. Yellow flowered Opuntia. 3. Creeping cactus. 4. Aloe Babulensis. 5. Cuscuta americana. 6. Coffea amygdalana. 7. C. Cyraphallophora. 8. Helianthus Croton. 9. Solanum aculeata. 10. Albizzia lebbeck. 11. Acacia Farnesiana. 12. Anacyclus erla. 13. Heliandron- apophytic cactus. 14. A. Malevo montana. 15. Argemone

Elven. 133 11 Jun, 1891. mucieava. 16. Vinea rosa. 17. Parkinowia aculeata. 18. Tom sop. 19 Auga apple. 20 Zuni. 21 Plumeria alba. 22. Turnepatia volubilis. Ido noticed a purple flowering weed* common in the Antigua fields which I could not determine as I had no books with me. * Ruellia tuberosa. After a capital dinner got up by Knight the Butler, who by the way he well the Hazell at Spade Table, he went out into the patio and smoked and sang for us him. St Aubyn has a good tenor voice, and she knows a great many songs. All the people from the village turned out to hear us, and when we got up a most rousing chorus their delight was unbounded. Daleympie had got some conch shells during the day and had chipped off the lids and converted them into marine bugles. He began to learn to blow them and made right hideous with the jaw so St. C. t I started off to the hosp. Daleymple choked, no dopman moved, and who does not like the smell of bridge hutu and does not love sleeping with cockroaches. in the cabin decided to slung his hammock in Ashton Home, and we helped him to find a dry place - we leave Knight and the two policemen to keep him company.

Union 12 June 1891 get in. It is a very difficult thing to get into a boat, may almost impossible unless you know how. You must swim up to the side, and keeping your legs will not give a vigorous kick with both legs and at the same time use the arms so as to raise yourself up the side with the arms stiff and the hips agains the gunwale. Then by throwing one leg over the side it is easy to get in. I knew nothing of this, and when I jumped the side my legs were hooked under the boat. Mr. Bynum shouted to me keep your legs out and jump up from the water and then he and Duly both laughed. The laughing made me very happy for all the while I was struggling to get aloof go als to give myself cut in two by a hungry and voracious duck. So I let go and swam out and had another try at the boat, but again my legs went under. St. & I were killing themselves with laughing, but I am not a fuss rate prisoner and I was getting tired, so clenching my teeth I determined to get into the boat somehow and I succeeded after a desperate struggle in the way my leg over the side of the boat and I wormed myself in with the loss of some integument. The signs were no doubt ludicrous, but as I laughed with St. & J. but they should have helped me to form a pronoun we

136 Urumi. 12 June, 1891. The shark was far, and sharks and barracutae were another not for distant. It rained then warm, but he did not stop long, perhaps too terrified at the new idea of a shark. Not long afterwards by the way a shark did cruise around between us and the shore, and the Captain of the vessel said we were always foolish to fear or sharks were about for whales are sometimes caught in the bay. After the bath went ashore as I've run to hold his court. I had into the old battery to have smoked to enjoy the view which was a magnificent air. Fine, indeed, than any view I had ever seen. The air was clear, and the blue sky cloudless objects stood out in clearly cut relief, for the heavy rain overnight had washed out all the impurities of the air and carried them down to molten earth to fertilize the soil. Below and to the south lay the schooner 'Trop' motionless on the clear emerald sea, beyond her the coral reefs stood up high in the water, the lightest darker little tints of green delineating the heights to which the coral animals had built up their mighty barrier against the stupendous Atlantic waves. But now the ocean was in a placid mood and nowhere was there at some headland a piling rock did a little crest of foam picturesque give

138 Unci - 12 June, 1891 and little Tobago stood on seaward; amidst side of little Martinique which shot up its splendid peaks above the blizzy sky. On the mountain slopes, such was the cleanness of the atmosphere, the homes of the people could be plainly made out. Turning towards the South American, the largest island of the group, was clear and distinct; towns and estate buildings, shining as clearly. I could see the home as Pallene where Africa and Shad spent the night, and Macmillan island at the west end of the long little trough could be made out. Little Tobago went to the little stretch of dry land where in slavery days your people from Unci were kept; show out high seen in the sunlight, was then the level tracing above Ashton shore in all further view of the sea - These few mugs and trees cannot deface in the slightest degree the loveliness of the scene from this little bulwark in the sleepy island of Unci. As I stood and drank in the beauty of the scene I could not help thinking how futile winds went to convey to those away any idea of the actual loveliness of the scene; I was a fortunate cat to gaze upon. And then I tried to carry my thoughts back a century in time, and to picture the land behind me the scenes being in darkness, should

Lucin 12 June, [89] Maurice arrived with his country people princes, and his family and friends. He then saw landing probably an officer in command of drilled and armed Europeans who scanning the bayou I had scanned broke out the first glimpse of the long expected brig bringing supplies from Europe, Barbados and causing less the [illegible] sailing more for private schooners should appear to the windward. Then I literally pictured the scene when Europeans, and black African slaves, with set faces and hands defined heads and face were engaged in the fight which resulted in the beating off the Corsair since landing on the island would have been followed by old bloody butchery and fricatrice. Yards, just outside the frame between the reefs, lay the Spanish craft with its murderous villains aboard. The main mast was down with all its shrouds yards and rigging, and the floats with long canvas were hacking away at rope and mus to clear the wreck. The Master of Union, with hands clasped with [illegible] with a few lumps young fellows, covered with dirt, with that steam rolled up and prince [illegible] on his face was thanking his young friend for the luck.

Uccini. 12 June, 1891. will directed that he really saved the Island -- Away back in the star morning, with bombarded and loopholes made for us to enable them have defence he carried out to the last, an old white haired man, and some few looking women and handsome children were standing in the sheltered portico surrounded by girls dressed greenness, and listening with eyes a glow to the last report from the battery. And on a bright-eyed, dark-haired learner of the pieces of the fleet from the cannon printed by the young Englishwoman in the battery, her eye shone love for them and two big tears rolled down her pretty cheeks, and she looked proudly up into her friend full rich eye, and thanked God that her lover's cold bravery in anxious moments may prevent the hands to hand contest she so much dreaded. And yes, after at always the same moment, with the quiet heroism so often displayed by women, she turns to the old white haired man, and says, "Come, grandfather, let us see that all the work is prepared and that the furniture of the door below are tight for we may yet have to defend ourselves in the house! And as the whole scene varied and I sat down on the old cannon and pealed my pipe, and

12 June, 1891 again treated my eyes on the lovely view, and old Mulgoe came toddling round and told me that the magistrate's cows had fallen through for the defendant in one cause had bolted to Cani'a car, and the complainant - as the other is in child-bed! He regarded the whole matter as a personal injury to himself, and so I cuddled with him, and asked him how my honour. He said it had been brought down from the road back to the beach on, but he didn't know who had brought it, and he said he'd brought his horn for the magistrate to ride. As St Aubyn had no can, he had now only to collect fares, i.e. day fares, horse-fares, land fare, and boat fare, for this last fare a penny a-running from Town till 6 o'clock. The people are very poor, and as they are utterly neglected by the fort at St Vincent they try to get off the fare. Lots of the people get in their canoes and persons to sea and they can fairly dodge docks on schooners so they really get off the fare and demandise them who pay. We once were mangring out in a canoe and when St Aubyn hailed him and asked him if the fare had been paid, the man said no he had no money and did not

Elmina. 12 June, 1891, indeed to stay - Hermes away and Stubyn was quite prudent to stop him. Sometimes were Col- elected as Stubyn came in the crew of the 'Wasp' as Special Constable, and sent them with the two police- men to collect the people's money seize all the boats that could be found unlicensed. Then is a good deal to be said on the side of the people. They get nothing from the Govt. People are ill and die on the island and no doctor come yet. There is no protection for life or property, brood keeps up for the job, and a Mulino said 'as a -- d - d - robbing'; and it was really awfully then I ascertained that the good people of Elmina did not assemble to draw us off as the printer would describe away on the days spent. We gave the people nothing, but added woe to their comfort on their happenings, and we took away the money they had hardly earned by carrying their little produce in their Canal boat to Bonduca, and Camiacum. His invite old Muljacket to lunch and he accepts with alacrity. He is a native of Tiltie, and on a boy of 15 he remembers the execution in Danetown of the (9?) prisoners of the Las Damas in 1834 (?) He told me that only the Doctor and the Cork men spread on they

12 June, 1891 [illegible] has been taken from another vessel and pressed into the private service. I remember Dr James telling me all about this private vessel which was practically the last ensign in the seas, or I am able to find that old Medgyes account is quite correct. Three men fell on it that he had travelled 450 times between Genoa and Kingston-on-Trent during the time he had sailed with the above that is 260 times each way, and as the distance was 45 miles, he had covered 21,600 miles in travelling to and fro. I also had a long talk with him about the island and its people and animals. He informed me that the men were in jail in the work, and he gave me some old State papers dated last century and amongst them the reader Doctor's journal which was of the utmost interest to me. Dr Aubry having extracted the last walking from the pockets of the unwilling wanderer I have mounted one beast, to which Regiment of old was a purchase, and started on my way towards the beach. Medgyes instructed walking by his side, and asked where he was riding. The old fellow said is on the Doctor's believing just like nothing about him.

Urumi 12 June, 1891. When we got to the beach the boat had not left, thel schooner so we hailed folkes, and shelled waiting I went into a small stone building which in and by Mulgao an horn to gin and bale cotton. The gin was a primitive one worked by hand. The whole cotton crop of the island is about 300 bales of 300 lbs. each. The cotton is with raw ^4½/8ths, and the cotton seed which is shipped in 1/2 cwt bags, is worth £4 a ton. The cotton seed, Mulgao said helped to pay the freight of the cotton. All the cultivation is done with the Metayer system. The island belongs to my family who rent it to Mulgao for, I think, £150 a year. Each man is given an acre of land and labour, to take a crop of cotton off it. If the crop be raw both of clean cotton the man has to pay $4.00 for his labour rent—for all the cotton belongs to the proprietor—so a single person bends, him owning any real property on the island. An acre yields sometimes as much as 250 lbs. of clean cotton, but by allowing for bad seasons the mini- umum amount of cotton is fixed and if that a man's performance be low the metayer pays no more rent and he gets the value in money of his third Urumi. 12 June, 1891. of the produce after all expenses such as shipping to, are deducted. The metayer gets the cotton without pay but the proprietor pays $4 for shipping the produce, and his outlay is recovered in the expenses before the final settlement. Corn is also planted in alternate rows with the cotton and the proprietor gets only one third of the crop—Bender—the metayer has a provision garden in the hills, which he gets rent free. The whole system is patriarchal, but it seems to work well under the Patriarch Mulgao, only the people are poor the old Urumi Chief is not rich and except once during a smuggling row when Mulgao could to hide until 4 policemen came to restore order— this old feudal chief and his retinues has been get me well together. We left Urumi at 20'clock, the boat having come up to an old stump of a great mammoth that once lived on the banks of the Amazon some 600 miles South American river and had drifted into all the bay to the Peninsula. Getting off the stump into the boat as from a shoal, we raced abroad, requied anchor and stood out to sea, the Captain skillfully sailing the ship through the narrow passages in the

Mayaro. 12 June, 1891 Coal reef. The bay appears to be be filling up with coal as did the one for harbour of Calligua in St Vincent. In them and other places in the West Indies the bottom is alive with coal which gradually nears the surface and at last put out. In this way some of those islands and cliifs are gradually increasing in area, and the sea bottom is changing year by year, and old charts become unreliable. These facts indicate the necessity of periodical surveys to correct the published Hydrography Charts. We had a spanking breeze one noon from the new channel to Mayaro in less than an hour. We anchored in a deep bay on the second side of the island and landed at as some wild that lunch in boats. The beach was sandy but is full any whistles, and then we deep into after feet from the shore. We clint up away steep road that has been a story steam track only a few hours ago, and there are paths in all directions. After a hot stuff climb we reached the valley with Central ridge about 200ft above the sea. The side islands is less than 500 acres and possesses the whole valley, Mayaro 12 June 1891 to another old patriarch named Mr. Henry J. Thilain, who is of French descent. At Aubry, Bolymplet I as mee proceeded to the school house, which was a room about 10 feet square, and how the magistrate court was built into it. Along the walls are the following legend in letters cut out of different coloured papers "God bless our school. God save the Queen." This was the handy path for schoolmasters who now was settled in Carriacou, and it was thought to be very fine, and many of the people gazed upon it with admiration and delight. Old J. Thilain, white haired man about 76 was indeedly the best kind. He was indeed a genuine, discreet old man, and I could get us information of every value from him. On the top of the ridge is in delightful cool, the strong Atlantic huts blowing in without any interruption. Bolymplet I walked all along the ridge, and talked with the people. Here we visited the ruin of an old mansion house, and was told by a niece of old Thilain that it was a house commenced year ago by a former proprietor but that for some reason and then it was never finished. The stone was imported from England and evidently a considerable sum of money was expended in removing it,

Mayers. 12 June 1891 had not been tried we should have had to bring the prisoner with us, and so it made us how him our decision to have two crying and quarrelling men aboard. I had intended to stamp up myself, but the money was eventually raised by a complicated system of borrowing amongst the villagers, and the two lads went out and had another row. As we headed away from the strong land behind the dim in through the two lads had beaten us round and I made 8 A. to go back and confront them all, but he had caught his turn and was deaf to my entreaties to him to do his duty like a man under magistrates. Weys on board as the sun set, and then had dinner and smoked, and debated what we should doil onto Cannonman or some at anchor out before breakfast. I suggested going there, both on the need to cannonman was only a couple of hours walkable, three and he spoke in the morning to do that island. My suggestion has carried us and we started at 8.15 p.m. better took an hour or two to do the journey and it was really as o'clock just morning before we dropped anchor in Chulston Bay of Cannonman. The land was right in our left and a strong lee tide was running, Cannonan. 12 June 1891 as we had to tack pretty frequently. Once we were nearly on some new Catholic island. 8 A & Capt. Van asleep, but I was smoking and I had gone forward to defy the sight of the schooner playing its way across the grave. All at once I saw from a few cable lengths ahead and we were going pretty fast. I sang out heaving ahead, (the Captain put to) the helm shot out with a view to the day's moment carriage to fall off just in time. A long stern & then plains, is tickled ink and an on a dark night a clear head and much local knowledge is necessary to carry a sailing vessel safe enough. He had to tack so often as every woman or placed in chain. Hope (which it is called) that as the lot said: At the critical moment the young fellow had fallen asleep and the Captain started his own on men for a time. When we were clear of the reef the Captain cautioned the sails in language more forcible than nice. In making Chulston Bay we had to sail pretty close to the north western end of the island which is really a tiny formation, with a hill called Faffa Hill near over the ship, in the centre. We ran in too clear and had to tack, but the young sails have lain himself

152 Cannovan. 12 June, 1891 down the deck and gone for sleep again. This was more than one ship on Cold Ward, so after we had lashed and got well into the mouth of the bay she heaved to helm to the west and ran along the deck to the rails, kicked him up in his legs and then full-bowed him for the space of about 4 minutes, the young fallen dazed ten minutes and fro on the little deck, the ship's aft trim and pulling in a good punch in the face, a cuff on the side of the head as very frequent to tumble. When the boy did just step upon, under me some anchor and very tired so all lay down and got a much needed rest. 13 June, 1891 Saturday Head-ache today, probably caused by sun yesterday and want of sleep. We all landed at Cannovan at 8 o'clock and saw Mr Balfour, the brother-in-law of Mr Snaggs. Marched with him across the main ridge of the island to Mr Snaggs' house which is situated on the border of Fine Bay on the north-west side. From this bay the main central peak could be seen following the course of the island and terminating in a pyramidal peak 852 feet high. The outline is a curious shape, the outline being like that of the Eiffel tower or a tea house. The house is the side of a small village, and close by is a pretty little church Cannovan. 153 13 June, 1891 with a spine and red tiled roof. His church was built by old Snaggs who is called, a brother of the former Chief Justice of Melito - Sir Wm Snaggs. The island belongs to the Snaggy family, and it was settled by the great father of Skinny Snaggs, the present head of the clan. Sir Wm Snaggs was born on the island. I remember, about 15 years ago, when I was going to Trinidad with D Snaggs, travelling with 'Old' Snaggy the father of Mr Snaggy and the brother of the Chief Justice. He was a remarkable looking man. Tall but thin and dressed in a long blue kind of waistcoat, and a little hat with a green ribbon round it. He had gone, I believe, to Trinidad to arrange some business there in connection with his crop of cotton. Here are no guns on the island now, but he insisted in slavery days, and the cases saw out to Fine Cay, an isle of Baccus in Octant, lying to the south of Cannovan. Mr Snaggs and his wife received us kindly and I had a long and interesting conversation with them. Mr Snaggy informed me that the powdered rhizome of the arrowroot plant was an antidote to the poison of the manchineel tree. He has several garden implements, principally battle-axes, that had been found in the woods, and Mr Balfour very kindly gave me some small bells. Mr Snaggs has also a fine stone cauldron also found in Cannovan, and he keeps it very much so

154 Cannovan. 13 June, 1891 My accounts will be put with is. On the beach below the house, the sea which lately encroached on the land, has cut down a bank about 8 feet high and disclosed a lot of broken earthen pottery. The place was evidently a kitchen midden, and my visit (it in company with Mr Balfour, our most interesting I picked up), resulted dug out two pieces of pottery which brought away with me. Mr Snagg showed us some old medical journals of the older proprietors, and they were very curious. One of them is kept by a D.R. Klein, who resided in Cannovan and used to visit Cannovan periodically. Then are several notices showing that yaws existed on the island as late as 1837. In the same journal several cases of syphilis are prescribed for, so that in those days the two diseases were recognized and differentiated. In 1826 D.R. Klein wrote the following interesting prescription for depythy: "Take of Castor Oil F; Gum Arabic in powder Fijj; Sugar Fj; Laudanum 40 drops Mixt Water Fjj. A tablespoonful every hour". This is the treatment I frequently adopt in small-pox cases now. Cotton is cultivated on the island and the crop is about 600 bales. It is ginned by a machine powered wind well. Maize and pigeon peas are also cultivated in the island as in Union Island. 155 Cannovan. 13 June, 1891. After lunch which we had in "the Court House" close by the landing place, I went off to the schooner with Mr Balfour or I had a headache. The so-called Court House is a small building with two rooms, and in one, when D.R. held his court, left a good deal of the space was taken up by a large picnic net. As Balfour & I were being pulled off we saw the large black fin of a shark pass above the net. I remained aboard some time chatting with me. He had formerly been a naval officer, but left the service on account of ill health. He happened to meet Mr "Old Snagg" who took an eye to him and invited him many years ago to visit the island. His bedstead is still there. He has married one of the ladies of the Snagg family and was her son interest in the estate. He is a very nice fellow, and he gave me some interesting geological specimens collected on the island. One of them was like pickeryphol. I leave at 4 p.m. for Musquim and owing to contrary winds we had to make long tacks, and so did not reach our destination until 5 o'clock next morning. I had a good sleep hence and woke up quite well with headache completely gone.

158 Moustique. 14 June, 1891 melancholy scene on the scene of his father's death. On reaching the long-bridge to Windsor we noticed the big rollers dashing on the coral reefs, and picked up sponges and water ferns which had been washed on the sandy shore. We also noticed some timbers from a wreck that had occurred sometime ago. We came back by another way, and saw some plants of rice hemp that had been planted a short time ago, they are certainly thriving. The grass was covered principally by the Samoan grass Despalium distichum, and several Leucine Farnesiana and white edax—Tecmelleuvenyon, were also fairly abundant, and the purple bell-shaped flower of Ruellia tuberosa were frequently seen, as in Coromond and other islands. Close by a pond on the flat below the house, a fine large tree Albonoma digitata was growing luxuriantly, and it must have been brought to this island many years ago. After a good lunch we started for a long walk to the south end of the island. We first went along a rough road between two hill ranges, the road winding forming cuttings at the bottom of the valley in very wet weather, and the road had been much cut up in recent rains. On the banks running up the hill side the yellow flowered Prignonia unguis scrambled in all directions, and here and there the presence of the fine creeper was seen by a man of brilliant yellow against the foliage. 159 Moustique. 14 June, 1891 queen of the vegetation. Mountain dews are plentiful, and so is the Begonia plant. Now and again a crow has been flying across. An Elythronium and a low small-leaved Botan were plentiful, and a large Solanum and Heliconia spread out the land molluscs. We passed the remains of an old house and sugar mills at the end of the valley then it opens up into a small plain and above the old crumbling walls and ruin center was a hill on the top of which is an old fort, which we visited; yet however, without being well frightened by the spines of a cactus. Opuntia Java which grows here in profusion. Should perhaps luckily to use in the days of old to protect the island from pirates that then ranged these seas. When we got to the south end of the island was as dark and smoky and watched the waves dashing against the coral rocks. And there are three stones as the 'tomb' head cactus Melocactus communis, which were packed about in all directions on the rocky ledges, and on the sloping ground. In one at two the stems are double. We smashed up by our stumbling some grand cacti that would have been considered great prizes even at home. Having got tired of this sport, and of picking up crystalline pieces of rock we reached an steps, and came across the skeleton of a shark, and the remains of a young bird that had perished from Sata on

Moustique. 14 June, 1891 the recent drought. Poll and I collected some herbarium specimens, and fortunately he had some drawing paper with him. The manager of the island is a Mr Wallace, who hither runs boat of Bequia, and I am told that he like most of the people of these small island, is a daring and skilful boatman. We had a good dinner, and, afterwards, we fell in the porch of the house and soon composed ourselves to sleep, when returned in 15 June 1891 Monday. In the morning we go to the beach and have a capital bath with the usual company, but do not how go as from depth, afar away firm shore on account of sharks. We have an early breakfast, and then St Aubyn goes into the woods to collect the traces of the people of Moustique. We all go in before he commence business and chaff him pretty well. Afterwards we pack up, and go aboard the "Grasp" in Wallace's whaleboat. The canvas has been put in adz by Wallace, so we fire a salute, where just now. We have a fine spanking deep to start off with but is soon ruined by the heavy pond, and we have trouble in doubling the north corner latitude of Bequia. However, we do not alter, and then run full the mainland of St Vincent, coast to try to make me long tack into Kingstown Bay. But in current weather, and after several tacks, the wind falls and so the "safety company" as Reeve calls the boat, lies like along 160 St. Vincent. 15 June 1891 on the sea a few miles to the northwest of Kingstown. It is late in the afternoon we fire two guns to attract attention, and, after some time, a boat runs off to us, and it turns out to be Reeve's boat. I get my luggage in and we soon ashore, and reach the town by 6.30 p.m. - the schooner due us on shore until 4 hours afterwards, so we learned later on. When we got to the hotel, it was found that all my luggage had come ashore and were belonging to the other fellow. Reeve was much put out as he could not charge, and Aubyn grumbled audibly. Then Reeve looked us all over admiringly, and said, "Doctor! you are a great waste in the art of travel. You need but acquire any instruction elsewhere on the point!" Had lent him "Galtton's book "The art of travel" to read some day before. 16 June 1891 Tuesday. Writing nearly all the morning, and then I got to see the Administrator and have a long talk with him over matters concerning my mission. At 2 p.m. leave in the 'passage boat' for Williboro - the residence of the Hon Duncan McDonald - another in law of Lakefield. The passage boat is an American dugout canoe, 36 feet long, and pulled by 5 negroes, and steered by a certain who uses a paddle for the purpose. This sits an across the boat, differing in this way from Dominica canoes, they have backs to them 161

St Vincent. 16 June, 1891. so that they are fairly comfortable. The boat can carry about fourteen passengers and a lot of cargo - the cargo, principally passengers' baggage, and supplies for residents along the coast, is heaped up in the bows to considerable heights above the gunwale. and it appeared to me to be unsafe that I got my tin box which was perched on top of the pile at the bottom of the boat. I'm told, however, that it is an uliigo and that there's no chance of anything going overboard. On getting to Walldaloa Bay, a friend was waiting with a chair for me, and drove up to the house, about half a mile from the shore. At the house I was met by Mr Duncan McDonald and his mother and welcomed by them - Luke or Mr Fyfe McDonald came in. They are all very pleasant and strove to make my stay comfortable. The house is a nice one, but rather small. So there is an addition and another building close by in which Mr Fyfe sleeps and in which is the guest chamber to which I was put up! The building is covered with the ivy fern. F. repens, and it looked nice and cool. Below the house on the slope is a garden with many fruit trees, and after nutmeg. There was a fine Java plum with large delicious fruits next, and behind the house was a small cocoa plantation. The principal cultivation of the estate is arrowroot, and the machinery is the best in the island, and the produce fetches the best price in the market. I spent every pleasant evening

"St. Vincent. 16 June, 1891, We have a long talk with my hosts on planting matters. They have gone in for coffee, but without much success, and I am to visit the plantation to morning morning. 17 June, 1891. Wednesday. With Mrs. McDonald and I was to have out both early in the morning. The bath house is low down the slope of the hill on which the dwelling house is built, indeed, it is about 10ft. above the road up the valley. The bath is a very fine one, almost large enough to be called a swimming bath. Above that is a nice room, with dressing table, hanging &c. It is sometimes used when the house is full of guests. After breakfast we ride up to Belle-Isle to see the coffee cult." The road which is the main one along the leeward coast, winds up the mountain valley and then zig-zags up the side until the top of the ridge is reached at about 1300ft. above the sea. The valley is cultivated in oranges and very fine the plants look. At the head of the valley cacao is planted, but it is not doing very well as there is too much shade. Belle-Isle was formerly a separate estate, but it was bought by the McDonalds and is now looked with wall labor. There are about 20 acres of coffee, but it has been white-fly blight and is not doing well. Many of the plants are dying out, but after look well. I advised the McDonalds to plant for direct trees amongst the coffee; and, if that did not answer, to

164 St Vincent. 17 June, 1891. plant rows of Liberian coffee between the row of the Arabica trees, and when the former begins to bear to cut out the latter. The soil in this plantation is too low. Arabian coffee should not be planted in this part of the world under an elevation of 2000 ft. During the morning I visited the current work, such are the finest in the island. This precaution is taken to obtain good water for the manufacture of the current work. The rhizomes are washed first by machinery, and then cut into fine portions by fine circular saws set close together on a small wheel. The skin of the 'roots' which contain a pernicious substance is not taken off as in Bermuda, and this occasions the great difference in the price in the market of St Vincent and Bermuda current. Mr. McD. told me that to take off the skin is a very proceeding, and that he thinks is paid better in the And not to do so. He pointed out that only a small quantity of current was really exported from Bermuda and thus price would soon go down if the quantity of the Bermuda quality were increased. After visiting the under ground, to the village of Wallilabo on the sea shore and found two cases of yarn there. McDonald tell me that the true furina St Vincent is called the Prince of Wales feathers Plume, and that the

"Vincent. 165- 17 June, 1891 negro call it "draw and draw" - a corruption of "Dien at ma Grit" Cavan Branch comes to lunch and afterwards I ride with him to Layton along the south coast and we discover a great number of cases of years in the neighbourhood in the villages and settlements en route. We passed through the village of Berracalie and through the estates of Petros Slope, Mount Wynne, and Bulland Vale and then rode up the Layton Valley to see the celebrated Cant Sacreficial Stone there. This stone is by the river close under the south bank, about 2 miles from the sea. It is somewhat difficult to get at as it is practically in the sea and one has to get on to some stones in the stream to see the figures properly. The principal ones being cut on the face of the rock looking towards the stream. The stone is about 20 feet high and about 12 feet broad. There are a good many figures rudely carved with, and I copied the above under difficulties as the rain began to fall heavily when I got

St Vincent. 18 June, 1891 a W from the manager of Richmond Estate who had kindly has been brought down to the beach for us. Mr. From is a gentle old Scotchman and he and I soon became fast friends. Before proceeding on our journey from the farm club and the servants of police and told them to have as many your patients put into the cart they could in order that I might see the wretched people away return. Mr. From gave me 'Ros' a fine animal which he said would carry me well. And 'Ros' certainly did his duty nobly, and I am quite delighted with my mount. We rode out to Richmond Estate first and by the side of the road I saw whole she some months ago a magnificent collection of barn stone implements had been dug up. Most of your patients had been collected at the wake and I dismounted and examined them. There were twenty, and a few cases of ulcers of the leg produced by the irritation of the 'Tatter worm'. While I was examining one case of ulceration McDonald rode up and then quickly rode away a fell off his horse in a faint. He broke into a cold perspiration, his pulse became almost imperceptible and I got rather alarmed at the syncope. However he came to after a time and told me that he positively fainted when he saw anything of the kind.

St Vincent 18 June, 1891. We had to allow McDonald to lie until noon in the wagon house until his stomach recovered, and then we rode out to Walliboo village, then two men came with the lunchbox basket, and so McDonalds ducked if whiskey which somewhat allayed it. Afterward Donald made up for lost time we continued, and Roy fairly beat the other horses. I seem surprised he said he had hundred miles I could ride, and he found that I have better feet than his. I laughed and told him that I had lived on horse from years. We sometimes into the interior, and began rapidly to ascend along a mountain road which was in fair condition, only that it was steep in places. I am surprised to see that the large trees were almost all up in bunches in place. Andira microceras but as we got higher other trees many of them unknown to me began to appear. The ferns Cyathea fern and Blephila nuttong were seen sparingly, noticed too, the current Cleistocarpus lygodium, Psilotum triquetratum having from some of the wetlands. Heliconia hiernis occurred in clumps and is very easily distinguishable from the Dominitica heliconias. The other plants I noticed were lute and shrub melastomads. Japna. Schreiners. Pterinostegum Selenic. Senecio occidentalis. Andis. Chamaedend. St Vincent. 18 June, 1891. Thought often ached. I am unable to describe indeed the pretty little orchidus lunaris with its beautiful strong pink flowers.