[Guadeloupe, Saint Vincent, 'Cluett' Voyage] 1915-1916

Hovey, Edmund Otis, 1862-1924; American Museum of Natural History; Crocker Land Expedition (1913-1917); Hovey West Indies Expedition

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Scientific expeditions Description and travel Hovey Edmund Otis 1862-1924 Crocker Land Expedition (1913-1917)

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(E.O.) Horey Guadeloupe 1915 (St. Vincent) "Cluett" voyage 1916 1915

J. L. FAIRBANKS & CO. STATIONERS 15 Franklin St., Boston No. 115 Guadeloupe - pp. 1-54. Arctic Voyage of the "Ellett" be- yond Guadeloupe pages. 1 Map of Lesser Antilles showing route followed. 2 Map of Grande Terre w. route

Heilprin Exploration Fund Expedition of 1915 (Guadeloupe) The Heilprin Exploration Fund was established in 1914 by relatives of the noted explorer and geographer, the late An- gelo Heilprin of Philadelphia, for the purpose of aiding geo- graphical work under the aus- pices of the American Mu- suem of Natural History. On account of Professor Heilprin's well-known work on the 1902- 1903 eruptions of Mt. Pele, Mar- tinique, it was considered particularly appropriate that the first work under the fund should concern the active

volcanoes of the Lesser Antilles, In continuation of the work already done by The American Museum in 1902, 1903 and 1908, through ex- peditions & by the present writer. The object of a new visit was to make a comparison of conditions past and present, in connection with preparing a critical study of all previous observations on the eruptions. Leaving New York by the "Griana" of the Quebec Steamship Company's line on 5 February, the city of Pointe à Pitre, Guadeloupe, was reached on the 14th and ar- rangements were perfected at once for making cross sections of the long eastern member

3 of the double island which forms the French colony of Guadeloupe - All Guadeloupe has an area of [illegible] square miles, of which [illegible] lie in the higher section known as Basse Terre and [illegible] in the lower portion called Grande Terre. Basse Terre is -- volcanic in origin and has mountains rising nearly 5000 feet above sea level, while Grande terme is wholly sedimentary superficial in character and is low in relief. None of its undulating surface being more than 200 (150?) feet in elevation. Between the two portions of Guadeloupe there is a belt of mangrove swamp varying from one mile to three

4 miles in width, through which narrow arms the tidal river called the "Rivière Salée". A fine highway forty miles long connects Pointe à Pitre, its commercial center, with Basse Terre, the political capital. This road crosses the swamps on an earth causeway and the Rivière Salée by a pontoon drawbridge. 21-31-B The Rivière Salée, with its bordering swamps, is really an arm of the sea, but it receives much fresh water from permanent several rivers which drain the eastern slopes of the mountains of Basse Terre. Grande Terre on the contrary supplies gives discharges practically no surface drainage into the swamp.

except [illegible] intermittently during the rainy season. Under the influence of the strong E.S.E. [east] southeasterly trade winds, a feeble current sets northward through the Rivière Salée. The current is reversed when the wind veers to the east northeast. At 5 o'clock of the morning of the 16th, Tuesday, M. St. Sainte Croix de la Roncière, one of the most prominent of the French men of the colony, and I started from Pointe à Pitre for Porte d'Enfer, with M.G. Gaudry as chauffeur. Porte d'Enfer lies on the northeast coast of Grande Terre and our course to it

(57) 6 led through Port Louis, where he stopped at 7:30 o'clock a substantial for breakfast with M. Robert Castaigne, local manager of the great sugar and rum mill there, and his wife. The capacity of the mill is 10,000 metric tons of centrifugal sugar and 6,000 barrels of annually. rum; Much automatic ma- chinery is in use in this mill - After breakfast, we took M. Castaigne with us in our motor and drove an three or four miles to Bellevue, the outermost of the estates belonging to the company own- ing the Port Louis mill. M. Castaigne had two carriages.

awaiting us there and after [7] a short delay to watch the loading of the sugar cane on to the cars of the estate narrow railway which collects cane for the mill and ends at Belle Vue, we set out on the remaining part of our journey - From Pointe à Pitre to Belle Vue the road traverses a rather flat- country, much of which is devoted to the cultivation of the sugar cane, though great areas are still in a wild state. Toward Port Louis and on to Belle Vue, the acreage in cane predominates. 21-17-A Our three mile drive north- w and northeastward from Belle Vue lay through an abandoned estate whose land now lies fallow and then plunged us into the mangrove tangle.

in the shallow valley which [8] debouches at the Porte d' Enfer. A roadway is maintained thro' the mangroves by cutting away trees and lopping off branches but many stumps have been to hinder passage left on the road, and there are numerous water holes one to even two feet deep in the dry season through which the carriage splash must pass on its journey - 28 B The Porte d' Enfer is a shallow V-shaped cove in the northeastern coast shoreline of Grande Terre. It and the shallow valley leading to it from the interior are on a fault zone. The fault is marked in the interior three mile of the island by a long, low, east- ward facing fault scarp. This is

continued beyond Porte d'Enfer to Grande Vigie as a bold sea cliff. At the Porte the fault seems to trend about N25°E (mag), to have about 70° from the vertical toward the SSW, and to show an up-lift of 80 to 100 feet on the western side of the line or zone of fracture. At the head of the cove there is a broad Coral beach about 30 feet (9. meters) long on which the ancient Caribs used to land their boats on their return from the fishing grounds, before the supremacy of the whites was attained. This landing must have been a somewhat dangerous operation, in account of the surf which beats constantly on the cliffs and today on the day of my visit formed a barrier across the mouth of the harbor where

"which would have been an" "gerous if not impracticable for "canoes or other small craft "to negotiate. The harbor is "not been utilized by the French, "that of Le Monde, 00 miles east. "ward on the same coast, being "larger, more commodious and "surrounded by better country "for agriculture and commerce, "though even it cannot be enter- "ed during the prevalence of heavy "surf." "Porte d'Enfer received its "French name from a natural "at the east side of the entrance "arch which had been carved "from the limestone cliff by "the action of the waves - Some "years ago the top of the arch "was broken down during a

a heavy storm, leaving a a detached pillar to guard the Core. The Grande Vigie, at the extreme northern point of Grande Terre , is a similar detached column standing out from the like a man or guard. Mainland X: The process of forming making such an arch is illustrated in a little core two hundred yards east of the Porte, where the sea has excavated and is enlarging a pretty little grotto. The work is aid- ed by the jointing of the lime-stone. 21 30-B In this region the upper 60 or 70 feet of the limestone com-posed of an agglomerate composed of large masses of Meandrina and other corals.

cemented together by indu- /12 rated lime said originating from corals and other marine animals and algae. The lower exposed portion of the cliffs consists of more finely grained material and masses of coral seem to be absent, or at they are rare in it. This finer bed any rate. This finer bed is at sea level and is greenish surface black in color from its coating of plant growth life whose growth fostered by is due to constant wetting by tide and waves. The whole surface of the limestone has been deep- ly corroded wherever the sea can reach it by wave or spray. The result is an intricate network of cirque-like hollows

and long or short, narrow chan- nels. The cusps left between these depressions are sharp and rough - some to walk over. The charac- ter of this surface is shown indicated in photos 21, 28 13 & 30 A. The upper surface of the cliffs is barren of vegetation for fifty or fifteen yards back from their edge, where the heavy surf casts its spray. The photographs give but a suggestion of force exerted by the heavy surf. Looking southeastward from the point at Port d'Enfer at the base of the cliffs horizontal one sees a narrow shelf of rock at mean just above sea level. This shelf is still wave-swept but it suggests a compara-

tively recent elevation of Grande Terre - Another day was devoted to examining a section further east across the island. Our route led eastward from Pointe à Pitre to Ste Anne, thence northward to Le Moule on the northeast coast and returning by way of St. Francois on the southern coast. The traverses were over a slightly rolling country, somewhat ravined along the south shore, where hills 60 to 100 feet high were observed. The rock exposed in the road cuttings is all a soft limestone, occasionally agglomeratic in character, containing numerous rock sets that yield Tertiary invertebrate | 14

fossils. The beds show a gentle dip of about 10° to- ward the west northwest. The soil is fertile and much sugar cane is raised, except near (within two or three miles ?) the northeastern coast, where there is too much salt in the at- osphere, on account of the strong trade winds blowing off from the ocean, and the rainfall his rain. The town of Le Moule has the only practicable harbor on the windward coast of Grande Terre, but its use is curtailed by the danger due to the breaking of heavy surf on the coral reefs near its entrance - The cliffs characterizing the Porte d' Enfer region are

lacking lime and the shore slopes very gently to the sea. The surface rocks are like the upper beds at Porte d'Enfer, a coarse agglomer- ate containing large and small masses of Meandrina and other corals cemented to- gether by calcareous meal. The region is partly elevated to agriculture & cane growing. 21-21-A The illustration shows the sharp-pointed forms result- ing from the corrosion of the lime- stone by the waves and spray. There are dangerous coral reefs off Le Moule and the harbor can be entered only under favorable conditions of wind and surf. A red flag flying on the old re- doubt indicates that the harbor is impracticable.

A third day was de - [17] with messrs de la Bara[illegible]e and Eugene Graire voted to visiting the Pointe des Chateaux, the eastern extremity of the island which is at the end of a peninsula 20 miles long stretching out into the Atlantic Ocean toward the small island of Desirade from which it is separated by a strait 2 miles wide. Desirade and Marie Galante, the latter lying 20 miles to the south, are described as being composed of limestone like that forming Grande Terre. The Pointe des Cha-teaux is a rugged cliff rising vertically on the south, more gently on the north, to the height of about 70 feet above mean sea level. Like

Porte d'Enfer it is com- /18 posed of a heavy bed of brain- coral agglomerate, lying upon a grayish or yellowish green calcareous sand-rock. The sand-rock is exposed for a- [illegible] ten feet above sea level, is free from the large masses of which characterizing the upper bed coral and has been much black- ened by the action of the seawater. There is no apparent discordancy between the sand rock and the overlying agglomerate. The strike of the beds is about 2[illegible] N. 30° E. and the dip 10° or 12° toward the N.N.W. Near the sea the surface of the rocks, where nearly horizontal, is roughly er- oded, as at Le Moncel and the Porte d'Enfer. The

cape behind the Pointe [19] des Chateaux is low and largely much covered with thickets. Rainfall is scanty of the sea-grape. Near the northeastern shore there are several "salt pans" where for- erly salt was prepared commercially from the seawater. Wild goats and sheep abound. The elephant tooth from Guade- loupe which was described by ~~~ and on which much speculation has been based regarding the former connec- tion of the Lesser Antilles with continental America is stated by La Ranciere and ~~ to be unworthy. They say that the tooth was brought to the island by travelers - at alone and with ```<some>~</some>alone and with

its doubtful history it seems [20] weak evidence for an old land connection with South America, as compared with the strong contrary evidence presented by the Lesser Antilles themselves in their nature and in the certainty of their comparatively recent eleva- tion through some hundreds of feet. This recent elevation of the chain of islands is indicated by the elevated sea beaches, sea pools and beach lines that occur in a constantly rising series from Grenada to Staba St Eustatius (100 ? ft on Grenada, 1500 ? ft on St. Eus- statius). Guadeloupe has risen some 900 feet in this recent emergence. There is no evidence [over]

second and the principal object in 21 Stopping in Guadeloupe was to visit again the Grande Soufrière and its fumaroles, to compare the condition of the latter with museum the observations made in 1903 and 1908. Hence, M. de La Ron- cière and I left Pointe à Pitre at 6 o'clock of the morning of 19 February by the autobus which carries the mail daily to ~~the~~ town of Basse Terre, forty miles ~~distant by road~~ which is on the Caribbean side of the high island of the same name. The colonial highway crosses the Rivière Salée on a pontoon/drawbridge [see p.4] Basse Terre island as far as known is entirely volcanic in origin (dimensions

and area?) It consists of a series of great volcanoes the principal of which from south to north are-- Vieux Fort, Grande Citerne, L'Echelle, Grande Soufriere, Rez Casse', ---, --, Deux Mammelles (make list complete + include altitudes). Warm springs are reported from several as existing at several localities, but the geography of the high mountainous district is but little known. The present distinctly volcanic activity of the island is confined to the Grande Soufriere and its neighboring mountain-- L'Echelle

The colonial highway, [23] after crossing the Rivière Salee and its bordering lowlands, turns abruptly southward and skirts the coast as far as Trois Rivières. [There is begining to ascend the high ridge connecting the Vieux Fort mountains with the main back bone of the island] It crosses many flood ash deposits or slopes of debris which I have been brought down from the moun- tains by stream and flood action. The eastern slopes of the high mountains face the trade winds and receive much more moisture and rain than the western . Therefore Streams are more numerous, copious and permanent, the slopes more gradual and

"the flats more extensive. [24] deposits of red clay are abundant. The mountain axis of Basse Terre lies west of the middle of the island. The western slopes of mountains receive much less moisture and rain than the eastern. They are much steeper than the eastern, the valleys are more profound, the lowlands are narrower or lacking entirely. West of Trois Rivières the road rises rapidly to gain the top of the high ridge or col connecting the mountains of Vieux Fort with the main mountain range of the island. On this ridge there is an area of lava blocks and other debris apparently issued from the Soufrière and which (trade)

"is supposed by some to [25] be the ashflow of the eruption seen by Columbus when he discovered Guadeloupe [N.B. in 1493, La Roncière says that this is described or mentioned in the sois life of the Adm¹ ral.] The bed looks as if it might be assigned to an out- break as recent as that would be. It is reported that there are extinct fumaroles sur- rrounded by sulphur deposits in the top of the massif of Vieux Fort. De La Roncière stated to me that he had visited them. X The old fort south of the city of Basse Terre rests upon a ridge of ash agglom- erate which betokens an ancient

eruption of the Grande Soufrière. Many similar records of old eruptions are to be found along the coast as well as in the interior of the island. Al- though there are many solid— beds of solid lava exposed, and domes of lava appear in the moun- tains — as in the cone of the Grande Soufrière — it seems probable that the major portion of the land mass is composed of fragmental ejecta. If the Grande Soufrière can be taken as a fair sample of the volcanoes of the island, andesite (what kind?) predominates among the lavas and explosive eruptions have been the more common type of outburst from the vents.

Arriving at the town of [27] Basse Terre at the usual hour M. de la Bonciere and I of 10 o'clock we were met at the autobus garage by Mo. Hu- bert Ancelin and taken to his home for an elaborate break- fast. After this, we drove out northward from town to the place where there is still in operation (2-1-38 A) a rum distillery established by the famous missionary of the eighteenth century, Pere Labat This Jesuit father made a profound study of the Caribs and as well as of the negro and French population of the French West Indies and insti- tuted many projects for the betterment of the condition of the laboring classes. Here (Where?)

He had a large monastery [28] the ruins of which still stand near the old rummary. In its garden were carried on experiments in agricult- ture and gardening as well as horticulture. One of the products was a delicious white, slip-skin grape similar to the Niagara grape of western New York state. Pirates infest- ed the Caribbean Sea in Pere Labat's time, hence the good missionary had to erect a tower of defense near his monastery and distillery for their protection. The old Monastery's fields estate lay upon an low angled volcanic slope of ash coming down.

from the Grande Soufrière, [29] Mr. De La Roncière and I were planning to spend at least two ights on the summit of the Grande Soufrière, hence we se- cured hammocks and supplies from Auxeline and set out by carriage late in the afternoon for Saint Claude where we wer to spend the night on our f[or] way to the mountain. Saint Claude is healthfully situated about 1500 feet above the sea and is the home of many men do- ing business in hot Basse Terre. Contiguous to it is the former military establish- ment of Camp Jacob, in which are the governor's residence and an excellent.

"Hospital. Hotel accommo (30 stations in St. Claude are lim- ited to the excellent little inn which has been kept for years by Three Sisters of St. Joseph's. who took up this means of mak- ing a livelihood, when their Nunnery was secularized by the National Government. Kinder or more thoughtful hosts could not be found than these ladies prove themselves to the Travelers who seek shelter be- neath their roof. Early in the morning of 20 February I left the hostelry and called for de la Ronciere at the home of the friend with whom he had spent the night in a former officers house"

in Camp Jacob . Our two [31 negro porters were on hand for their service and at ten o'clock we reached Bains James. This is a favorite place of resort 1500 feet above St Claude or 3000 feet above the sea, where a warm spring gushes from the mountain side in the midst of the dense tropical forest. A pool some fifty by fifteen feet in area and about five feet deep at the maximum has been walled formed by building a wall. The water is only tepid now and de La Ranciere says that its temperature has de- creased noticeably within the last ten years - without leaving actual figures at hand, his

statement seemed to me [32] to be correct, as I recalled the 1903 and bath as it was in 1908. The Club des Montagnards of Guadeloupe maintains a rest and bath house beside the pool for the convenience of its members and guests. My friend and I rested for a few minutes near the pool enjoying the view over the southwestern portion of the island and the Caribbean Sea which is to be obtained from a clearing in the woods which was once occupied by a dwelling house and its garden. Then we pressed on the through diminishing forest and at its upper limit stepped

aside at an angle of the [33] trail to get the magnificent view commanded by an outlook shelter overlooking the gorge of the Matylois, the bowl- shaped crater of La Grande Citerne and in the distance the maze of peaks comprising Vieux Fort. From this point the trail ascends rapidly through low bushes to the open slope at 500 feet above Bams James which is thickly covered with wild pineapple and luxuriant moss. Flowers are abundant here, among which we no- ticed with particular pleasure a pretty little white orchid of terrestrial habit. The trail The trail reaches the base

of the cone at about 3800 [34] feet above the sea, where be- gins the thousand foot steep climb to the summit plateau of the volcano. The side of the cone is steep, averaging from 40° to 45°, and the ascent is a veritable climb, which it is ad- visable to take early in the morn- ing to avoid the force rays of the tropical sun. The whole cone is thickly covered with long moss, the masses of which are beautiful at this season of the year with their shades of light yellowish green, greenish yellow and flesh pink. At about noon M. de La Ron- cière and I reached the hut built by the Club des Montagn.

wards, which was erected with $13.50 much labor in 1904 (?) and stands in a sheltered spot near the primaeles of rock which form the Porte d' Enfer (21.46.A) The hut is a simple affair of one room, containing a table in the middle and a bench around three sides, but it is a welcome shelter from the rain which often falls on the mountain and from the keen wind which sweeps over the summit and chills one to the bone in the pervading damp- ess. We spent two nights here on this occasion in com- parative comfort, sleeping in canvass cots swung from the roof timbers. Our negroes slept on the bench, but one of

them was much dis-[36] turbed by noises which he at- or spirits, tributed to "zombi" but which really were the whistling of the wind and the hissing of one of the strong fumaroles. The man had never before been on the summit of the Soufrière and every strange sound ap- pealed strongly to his vivid imagination - He felt better when he had hung his blanket over the only window in the hut to pre- vent the zombi from coming in, though he had to sleep cold to pay for his precaution. For- forms terribly terribly the doorway, which could not be closed, pro- vided ventilation during the while we slept night. The temperature dropped to

perhaps (10° C / 50° F) during the [37] night, though Le Boucher (reference) states that tempera- tures as low as 0° C (32° F) have been recorded on the top of this mountain. The summit of the Soufrière is characterized by pinnacles and ridges rising from 50 to 150 feet above the general level of what is called the summit pla- teau. The most prominent of these as viewed from Bass - the west are called the Piton du Nord and the Piton du Sud. (21, 45, A + 21, 44, A). The western trail descends the base of the latter and within 150 yards passes through the Porte d'Enfer (21, 46 A or B), which is the name given

to the great cleft between a [38] 50 foot pinnacle and a ridge The topography of the summit is so much like that of Mt. Pelé of Martinique that the similarity in origin of the two cones, as brought out in my deleted articles on the Caribbees in 1903 and 1904 (Ref.) seems to be fully established and was emphasized in my own mind by the present con- dition of the summit of Pelé as observed later in this year's expedition. (Add descriptions of other pinna- cles and the great cleft, particularly the Grande Fente, from previous notes and Le Boncheur's map.)

as soon as M de La [39] and 9 Roccière had dispatched one luncheon after arrival at the Club's shelter we proceeded to the great fumaroles, to take their temperatures, going first to the one called Cratèrë # Napoleon There are five important fine vents in the cone of the Grande Soufrière from which steam issues now or has issued since within the last thirteen years. Four of these are associated with the Grande Fente - Lac de Soufre, Cratère du Nord, which has three openings; Cratère des Sud and Cratère Lacroix - and one, the Cratère Napoleon, in the most important secondary fissure traversing the cone - The lac de

Soulfre is the largest and (40 most important of the whole series but it is inaccessible. (vent) (Illust. from 1903 photos) It lies within the Grande Fente where that fissure cleaves the solid lava from top to bottom of the north side of the cone. One can stand beside the fissure and look down into the cham- ber some eight or ten feet in diameter which seems to con- tain the principal vent, if there be more than one outlet for the steam. This chamber is beautiful, with its complete lining of sulphur in crys- tals. Below this chamber is another smaller room in which one can see pendant "stalactites.

"of sulphur, but they are made by ascending vapors in - stead of descending solutions as in limestone grottoes - Le Boucher (reference) gives the following account of the old sulphur cave (translation from Le Boucher): The opening leading into these chambers is said to have been closed by a landslide which took place in 1843 at the time of the great earthquake destroyed the city of Pointe a Pitre and shook the whole of Guadeloupe. Apparently this landslide closed the lower end of the Grande Fente, below the Lac de Soufre, but it seemed tome as I stood above the "lake" that

the old sulphur chambers 142 were still existent and that entrance to them could be gained by means of a rope or a rope ladder. The rumbling within the chambers is strong and a large volume of steam issues from them, but no tem- perature observations could be made or gases collected. To the senses there seemed to somewhat less strength of discharge than at the times of my visits in 1903 and 1908. The Cratere du Nord lies in the Grande Fente, ? yards south of the Lac de Soufre. It now has three principal openings, which are arranged along a line running N 50° W - S 50° E

The northernmost of these (43 is the most active, the steam issuing with force enough to throw out pebbles an inch in diameter when cast into the vent. Two temperature ob- servations here one at six inches and the other at nine inches below the orifice gave the same results, viz 99.5° C. (conec- collected gas for analysis. tion OK?) The second ^12 or 15 feet vent, some ten or twelve south of the preceding, gave forth a gentle column of vapor and its temperature 18 inches below the bottom of its little crater was 95° C. (21,52 B) The third vent, about ten feet ^still further south, discharged so

"little steam and this was so [144] enurable by the bare hands that its temperature was not taken. Proceeding southward there are no other fumaroles in the Grande Fente until the south side of the cone is reached. There about 50 yards below the top of the cone one finds the Cratere du Sud. The actual orifice of this fumarole is in the bottom of the narrow open fissure which the Fente here presents. It is wholly inaccessible ble and is not very active. Warm vapors rises gently from the fissure and no hissing noise could be heard. We did undertake to sound the depth of the cleft with a stone tied

to a cord, the stone ceased. [45] descending when x feet of cord had been let out (vid. grand- Mt. Bk no 1 p. 24) Stones thrown into the open fissure where the vapor came out returned the noise of falling for seven seconds. Thrown in three yards distant on the same fissure could be heard for ten seconds. These experiments may indicate a depth of approxi- mately x feet. Cratère Lacroix, 300 feet below the top of the cone in the Grande Fente, is the most southern of the Grande Sou- frière fumaroles. It was first observed in 1902 (?) and received its name in honor of the famousse

French geologist mineralogist whose masterly reports on the 1902-1903 eruption of Mt. Pelee are well known to the scientific world. This vent has now ceased its activity. A small deposit of sulphur marks its location but no warm vapor now issues from it. Next to the Lac de Soufre, the Cratere Napoleon is the most important and interesting fumarole of Grande Soufriere of Guadaloupe - This vent is in the southeast quarter of the summit plateau of the cone and is associated with the long se- condary fissure, which

traverse the cone from SSE (47 to N.N.W. (Cf. Le Bonchet's map) making a gigantic letter X with the Grande Fente. The Cratère Napoleon (21,54 A or B) fumaroie rises through a small cone about three feet high and twelve feet in diameter situated in the northwestern quarter of a shallow- oval saucer-like depression or crater about 100 feet across. Apparently an explosion took place here at some time (looked up eruption of 1857) and the present fumaroie is the resi- due of the activity which caused that explosion. Considerable sulphur has been depos- it ed in and on the little cone. Steam issues from

the vent with so much force [48] that its supports a stone four inches in diameter thrown into the ori- fice and with so noise through to be heard distinctly at the Club's shelter a half-mile (verify from map) distant, when there is no wind. It was necessary to tie my thermometers to a stick to get the tempera- ture here, which proved to be 99.5°C at a depth of 15 inches below the surface of the ground. This fumarole seems to be unchanged in condition from that of 1903 and 1908. what it presented in On the northern edge of the outer cone of the volcano, in line with Grande Fente, the

Fumerolles Colardeau first [49] Came into notice in 1902, after the eruptions on Martinique and St. Vincent began. These vent fumerolles never were vig- orous enough to destroy much vegetation around their vents. Now a gentle column of steam indicates their position and their activity certainly has not in- creased since 1908. South of the Grande Soufrière and separated from it by a con- [50] whose peak is [560] feet above the western paratively shallow valley, rises base of the Soufrière cone. The older volcano known as L'Échelle, of the L'Échelle side of the saddle between the two moun- tains, in line with the Grande Fente, active fumerolles broke out in the late spring of 1902, or at any rate were first so-

ticed them. The vents rapidly [50] increased in number until there were scores of them over an area several acres in extent at the base of the irregular cone or upper slope of L' Echelle and the steam rising from them was distinctly visible from Pointe a Pitre. The vegetation of the area was killed by the escaping gases and their heat and much anxiety was felt by the inhabitants of the island lest the Grande Soufriere join in the devastating activity of Mt. Pelé and the Soufrière of St. Vincent. The area which was so active in 1902 still has many active small vents scattered over it. These are from one to three inches or more in diameter. Most of these

are lined with a coating of cup-[51] crystallized sulphur and discharge [illegible] moist hot air. Three were tested with the thermometer and gave a temperature of 95° C. One having almost no sulphur in it had a temperature of 96° C. During the past few years the burnt area has not increased percept- ibly toward the east, but it has spread up the slope of L' Echelle where new vents have opened and boiling springs have developed. These seem to owe their origin mainly to the damming of surface drainage from the mountain. The lower of the spring is now five to six meters in diameter, almost cir- cular in outline and is and more than one and one-half meters

deep. The principal boiling (52) is in the eastern third of the spring and the temperature of the water there is 94° C. In 1908 there was a much smaller boiling spring at this spot, but it was less active— + crater contained no water in the dry season and its activity seemed less than it is now. About six meters up the slope there is another similar spring about six meters long and three meters wide which was not in existence in 1908 and which is new even to M. de La Ron- cière's experience observation, and he is a frequent visitor to the locality. I should say on the whole that there had been no decided

change in the Grande Soufrière 53 fumaroles since my first visit in April (?) ,1903. The noticeably lessened activity of the Fumaroles Colardeau, Cratère du Sud and Cratère La croix is counter- balanced by the increased activ- ity area occupied by the vents on the slope of L' Echelle. The slight diminution in the discharge at Lac de Soufre and Cratère du Nord may be more apparent than real, while the Cratère Napoléon is certainly as strong now as it was then, if not stronger. Returning with difficulty through the upper reaches of the gorge of the Mahylis, [illegible] we reached the pools of sulphur-

ated water at the southwest base of the cone of the Grande Sou- piere and found them to be distinctly lower in temperature (to the hand) than they were in 1903 and 1908. There are warm springs in other parts of the island, but nothing is known about their actual tem- eratures (but look up Le Boucher's descriptions) or any changes that may have taken place within re- cent years. (N.B. From my note book Golphe 1. pp. 35 to 47 and the literature pre- pare a sketch of the rest of the island.)

Guadeloupe. Grande Terre low The Grande Terre portion of Guadeloupe is larger than the mountainous Basse Terre part, from which it is sepa- rated by broad mangrove swamps. Through these flows back and forth with the tide, the brackish arm of the sea called the Rivière Salée, freshened by the rivers flowing constantly from them from the mountains of Basse Terre and during the rainy season from the flat surface of Grande Terre as well. 8 A slight current sets through the river.

"times northward and some- times southward" under the influence of the easterly trade winds [N.B. find out whether this current is variable in direction and how variable in strength] The mangrove swamps look to be impassable, but shallow; tortuous natural canals give boat access to most parts of them. They are a great resort for ducks and other migratory water birds during the winter months and hunters' huts are perched on piles in some of the lagoons in their northern part. The high-way from Pointe à Pitre, the commercial center to Basse-Terre the political capital of the Colony crosses the Rivière

Balée by means of a pont- toon drawbridge. Cultivation comes out a short distance onto the flats bordering the swamps, but not far, since the land is too wet to sup- port it. Brande Terre is at an almost equal sided triangle compris- ing 100 square miles in area. It is roughly speaking an isos- celes triangle lying upon one of its longer sides. Its southern side extends nearly from Cape — nearly due east to Pointe des Chateaux twenty miles. Its windward side stretches another twenty miles from Pointe des Chateaux northwestward to the Grande Vigie. Its western

side, fifteen miles long, runs irregularly S.S.W. from Grande Vigue to our starting point - Pointe à Pitre, with a popula- tion of about 20000 people, lies at the northern end of the southern one third of the western side. The surface of this portion of the double island of Guadeloupe is undulating, but no hill rises more than 200 feet above the sea. The southwestern part of the triangle might even be described as hilly, while the northern angle shows a fault scarp bluff 80 to 100 feet high trending southward for about 6 miles from Grande Vigue toward the middle of the island. No per- manent stream of water is

found in any of the shallow valleys. Grande Terre is an elevated coral reef and shoal, and the numerous fossils in some parts of its rock indicate the abundance of molluscan and other inverte- brate life in the region during late Tertiary time. The road-metal quarry on the southern edge of Pointe à Pitre at the end of Rue Alexandre Isaac are highly fossiliferous in many parts. As far as I saw, the fossils were all molds (

were of lime sand and gravel, often breccia-like in appear- ance, the hard lumps of which contained many small fossils, gastropods, lamellibranchs, etc., there were but apparently no corals in the western half of the island. (particularly Melanbrines) Corals are abundant, however, in the upper beds at Porte d' Enfer, Le Moule and Pointe des Chateaux along the north- eastern coast; and the rocks of Portte d'Enfer seems to be continuous to [illegible] Grande Vigie. At and above [illegible] sea level along this windward coast there is a beach band fifteen or twenty feet wide. This has been made by the ac- tion of sea beating against the cliffs. It differs some-

what from the overlying beds, in that distinct macroscopic fossils seem to be lacking. The rock is a calcareous meal like the cement binding together the corals and other fossils of the upper beds. The meal is per- haps algous in origin. Often it is like hardened mud in texture

St. Vincent. Leaving the hospitable shores of Martinique with regret at ten o' clock in the morning of Friday, 26 March, I boarded my old friend the Quebec SS Co's liner "Guiana" and about half after one the ship was under weigh for St. Lucia. The day was beautiful and the three and one-half hour run across the channel between the islands was very enjoyable, giving delightful relief from the hot days spent in ruined St. Pierre, on the arid west south- western slopes of Mont Pelé and amid the sugar plantations and torrid hills of Laurentine, Van. Marinique clin and Ducos in southeastern

St. Lucia, Arrived in Castries I found that I could get passage to St. Vin- cent the following night on the little sloop "Pen Nevis", bound for Grena- da with coal. Since this would at my destination expedite my arrival more than a week over going to Barbados and taking the Royal Mail steamer thence to Kingstown, St. Vincent, I speedily got my needful baggage and out. fit off the "Grenada" and bade fare- well to the newly formed acquaint- ances of the trip from Fort de France. The evening in Castries passed quietly in the company of old friends, made or previous visits en- courte to and from St. Vincent, and the following day was fully occupied with writing letters, walking about town and completing arrange.

ments for the trip on the sloop. Late in the afternoon my effects were put on board the little boat and before half after eight we were standing out of the harbor. The wind was favorable, the sky was almost cloudless, the moon lacked but three days of full- ess, prospects were good for a sat- isfactory voyage to Kingstown. Persons who have traveled on these small coast- ing vessels avoid their cabins and sleep on deck unless it rains heavily. Hence my Castries land- lord had loaned me a canvas slaw deck-chair and I soon made myself comfortable for a night in the open. The wind held so good that we crossed the channel between St. Lucia

and St. Vincent under reefed [1] 4 mainsail, The sloop's master said that we should be at Kingstown in twelve hours from Castries, but we were only off the northern end of St. Vincent at sunrise. The wind died down and became contrary and it took us till four o'clock Sunday afternoon to beat down the leeward side of the island and reach our destination. The heat, glare and inaction of the day over- whelmed the beauties of the moon- lightsail across the channel. A friend had his boat awaiting me, and it arranged with the port authorities and the Custom house to admit our sloop without delay in spite of the days being Sun- day and had his boat await-

ing me. Hence it did not [5] take me long to get ashore, satisfy the customs authorities, with the aid of my letter of introduc- tion from the British ambassador at Washington, and reach the hospitable home of my helpful friend, J. Mac Gregor MacDonald, Esq. Mr. MacDonald was a near-by eyewitness of the great eruption of the Soufriere 7 May, 1902, and kept notes which have been published [Century Maga- zine. See also my accts. in Mus. Bull. & Nat.Geog.Mag.]— forming the best, and a most useful, account of what hap- pened on that eventful day. On the day after my arrival, the Hon. C. Gideon Murray, ad-

ministrator of the colony, [6] gave me an interview in the course of which he cordially pledged the cooperation of the insular government with the American Museum in the preparation of a large-scale topographic map of the region surrounding the crater of the Soufrière. The plan was for Mr. J. Landreth Smith, the Crown surveyor of the colony, to go into camp with me on the mountain, and Tues- day afternoon I took my outfit with me to Chateaubelair by ca- noe, a heavy [illegible] bulky load for the little conveyance, leaving Mr. Smith to follow me by the regular mail canoe on the next day. He came according

to schedule I went directly to [17] Richmond Vale, The manor house of the Fitzhughes Estate belonging to the MacDonald brothers, which I made my base during the fifteen days that I spent on and about the leeward (westward) side of the Soufrière. The house commands an unobstructed view of the summit of the volcano four (?) miles distant, and it was from here that Mr. MacDonald made the valuable observations on 7 May, 1902, to which reference has already been made. The following day, Wednesday, 31 March, was fine and about sunrise I left Richmond Vale for the top of the Soufrière, taking Forest Ranger Jimmy James with me as guide and porter. Arriving at the inn

of the great crater at eleven (8 o'clock, a beautiful panorama was spread out before my eyes. The surface of the emerald green lake stands many feet above the level which it held in 1908, James says in fact that the water seems to high to be is now higher than it was before the eruption of 1902, judging by his recollection of the old marks within the crater, but such an opinion can not have much value on account of the changes in the appearance of the crater caused by the eruption now occupies fully the bottom covering of the crater, the water, the talus slopes, and ridges and flats that were visible in 1903 and 1908 except for the upper- most parts of the debris cones at the base of the vertical northeastern walls.

The emerald green water pre-19 wonderful combination & vented a striking contrast in color when compared with the grays, purples, and grass greens of the walls of the [Incorporate here pp. 19a-c crate. of this book] After selecting a camp site in the head of a gully thirty feet below the rim, where it seemed as if our tents would be protected from the easterly Trade winds, we left the summit at 1 o'clock and went down to Chateaubelair to meet the mail canoe and complete arrange- ments for making camp on the mountain the next day. Mr. Smith arrived according to schedule, but on the way to Richmond Vale to spend the night he fell from his horse and injured his shoulder, so that he was finally

"obliged to give up the place (10) "Going into the field on the map work. While waiting knowledge as to the extent of Mrs Smith's injuries, I spent a day visiting the Carikai Valley and the coast as far as Balein Point and another day on the Richmond Estate and in the gorge of the Wallibu River. Mrs Smith's shoulders getting worse, he returned to Kingston on 2 April for medical attention. and I followed the next day, not deeming it advisable to spend Easter Sunday and Monday on the Soufriere on account of the numerous and sometimes boisterous young men who make an annual pilgrimage to the summit on the latter days.

On Monday, Mr. McGregor (11) MacDonald and his brother Duncan and I went by automo- bile northward along the windward coast as far as the road was passa- ble and then walked a mile further. This journey took us entirely across the area seriously affected by the 1902 eruption, from Georgetown to the south bank of the dry river on the north bank of which stands the re- vived village of Overland. Then, returning in the car to the Orange Hill Estate, now the property of Mr. Charles Barnard, I went on horseback with Mr Childs manager of the estate cross its fertile fields, which have been fully restored to more than their pre-eruption production of sugar- cane, and across the still

unrestored acres of the Lot 14 1/2 Estate to a point on the brink of the gorge of the Rabaska River where a good view was obtained of the changes which have taken place therein since my last previous visit, in 1908. It being evident that Mr. Lan- dreth Smith's accident was too derious to permit his going into camp with me, [crossed out: R.] B. A. Spence one of his assistants was detailed to go in his place and we went to Chateaubelair in the old mail canoe "Mizpah" on Tuesday, 6 April. Telling Jimmie Jones to have our porters ready for an early start the next morning, I went to Richmond Vale for the night. At sunrise I was again at the

Colonial Rest House in Cha-1/3 Chambelain, where my camp outfit was stored. Spence was on hand promptly, but it was nearly eight o'clock before we could get our impedimenta loaded into the small row boat that was to convey us to the mouth of Treske Valley, an old course of the Dralliton River, whence the Trail starts up the leeward side of the Soufriere. Here we were met by those four porters who had walked over from Chambelain. there began at once and the interesting and amusing process of distributing the pack- ages so that no man should have more than 75 pounds of weight to carry up the mountain. Soon after nine o'clock the

"long line of 17 men, including Spence, James and myself, were winding our way along the gently rising floor of the Tresk Valley which forms the prelude to the steep trail leading to the crater rim, 2900 feet above the sea. About two hours of steady work brought us to the rim and my men soon leveled off the spot which had been selected for a camp site, the tents were erected and everything put into order for the work of the expedition. But the nearest source of drinking water was about a mile away and 1000 feet lower down the trail. The trail too was so steep for part of the distance that the 'heading' of a five-gallon demijohn of water every day was no light task and rendered us careful in the use of the

"indispensable material. The day after our arrival at the summit gave us good weather, though the wind was strong, and we circled the crater, establishing four poles and flags on the rim for the main stations of our triangulation. This however was the beginning of a week of bad weather with almost continuous high wind and much rain. It was impossible to do any Theodolite or plane table work, and Sunday morning the gale was so severe that the Negroes' tent was "done bust down", to use their expression, about five o'clock. At sunrise they crawled out from under the canvas, patched up the hole and erected the tent again. Again it ripped and again was sew- ed up, but the repairs lasted for 1/5-

only a short time before a gust of present wind tore the cloth beyond repair and the wreckage could beused only for covering the camp boxes. Meanwhile my tent, which was a new one, was being slatted about so in the wind that Spence and I were kept busy renewing its anchorage in the soft ash and lapilli, and there was con- stant danger of its being swept a- way down the mountain. That after- noon we struck the good tent, cached most of our effects under the canopy a good tarp hanging that I had tas of the wrecked tent and started down the trail in search of a more protected campsite. This we found in the lee of some pigeon-berry trees not far from our water holes 1000 feet below the rim - Leaving what packages we had brought down,

We proceeded to Richmond Hill and Chateaubelair for the night. The next morning we returned with ten men who pro- leveled off our new camp site and brought our luggage from the old down site, so that we were established in our new home by about noon. The wrecked tent was repaired so that it could be used in the lee of the huckleberry trees. Spence and I with two men spent the afternoon on the rim of the crater, but could do no instrumental work on account of the high wind that was blowing. The bad weather continuing on Tuesday, Spence went down to Chateaubelair in the afternoon and reported to Headquarters. He came up again early the next morning

before noon, but went down again since 1/8 rain, wind and cloud portended no opportunity for field work on the mountains. There being less mist in the air on the 15th, James and I started for the rim in the rain at 9:30 in the morning. Per- the weather began to clear by noon deviance was rewarded, and in the latter part of the afternoon condi- tions for theodolite work were almost ideal. The fine weather continued through the next three days and enabled me to do all the impor- tant work for which I had planned, except the making of the topographic sheet. The surface of the caldera was determined as being 779 feet below the rim of the crater where the leeward trail arrives, and 1386 feet below the highest point of the rim, which is on the northern side.

The chief changes in the volcan[19] as compared with 1908 and 1903 consist of the rise of the waters of the crater lake, the removal of loose earth and lapilli from parts of the moun- tain slopes and from the valleys of the Vallibon, Rabaska and other radial rivers, the advance of vegetation over the area devastated by the erup- tion, the restoration of cultivation on several of the old plantations. The surface of the lake determined by theodolite observation to be 779 feet below the point on the rim where the Leeward trail arrives, or 2121 feet above the sea, taking the elevation of the rim at 2900 feet above the sea as the average of aneroid readings taken on three traverses of the the trail_ on different days. The highest point of the rim, which is on the northern side of the crater rises 1386 feet above the present surface of the lake (cf. elevations on Admiralty chart). - Or-

"Jarries, who is a colonial forester (19a) ranger of long experience on the Soufrière, says that in his opinion the crater lake now stands at a higher level than it did before judging from beneath Laigai Peak landmarks with which he was familiar in the old days. It seems to me, however, that not much reliance can be placed upon this opinion, on account of the changes which have been produced by the eruption. Before that took place there was much more vegetation on the southern, southwestern and western walls of the pit than there is now, and the denudation has made changes in the apparent relations of things. There does not seem to have been much if any enlargement of the crater in these quarters or on the north, above

the level of the lake's surface, [196] but toward the northeast, east and southeast there has been an determinable increase caused by landslides into the crater from the undermined walls. This has been greatest toward the northeast where the old walls are vertical, and the slides have continued to the present. (cf former note books and photos) Prior to May, 1902 a rest house which stood on the brink of the crater where the trail from the windward side arrived at the top of the mountain. James showed me that the ground on which this structure stood had disappeared. Without doubt it had slid down into the pit. The greatest activity of 1902-1903 was probably centered in the south.

Aside from the increase of [20] vegetation the exterior of the cone, the slopes of the mountain itself, does not present much change in appearance from that of 1908. The coarser, loosely compacted ash has been largely washed off, leaving behind an increased exposure of- lapilli composed of countless little bombs or rounded bits of lava that became rounded and more or less nearly spherical in shape as they cooled from fusion before falling to the ground. The fine, dust-like ash retains more of the rain that falls upon it than does the coarser ash and its particles adhere to form a firm and resistant mass. It is grey in color and my helpers spoke of it as "cement". At my second In preparation

for the tent. Camp site we dug through eight [21] alternations of thin beds (quarter inch to one inch thick) of the hard mud and loose coarse black sand into a bed of "cement" which we cut into for six inches without reaching its bottom. This thick layer recalled to mind the morass ^ the sea of soft mud which my con- familions, Messrs. J.A. Jaggar Jr., G.C. Curtis and J.MacG. MacDonald, and I waded through near this spot on 31 May, 1902, when we made the first ascent of the volcano after the great eruption be- gan. The tenacity with which this material holds its place and resists erosion is strikingly il- lustrated by the caps which rest on many rocks along the sea coast near Morne Ronde. Some of these hard mud-caps are still two to three

feet in thickness and looks as if they would last for many years to come. [ill. Bk22, p.773 or p.-78 A] No vegetation has secured a foothold on them. Great quantities of the fine dust were deposited on the upper slopes of the mountain and on the rim of the crater. Estimates of the amount would be mere guesses but it is evident that the rim at the point where the railroad trail reaches it retains a bed from three to eight feet thick which is composed principally of this material. Toward the northwest the increase elevation of the rim is maintained in varying degree partly with the mud and partly with coarse sand, the latter predominating. Toward the southeast and east as far as the southern limit of the crater the mud is the chief deposit on

thence the rim, but toward the north- [23] east east system and west around the northern part of the rim coarse sand, gravel and course larger lapilli predominate or are the whole deposit. At three places, at least, Parikai Peak? Parikai Valley or head of the northwest side of the crater and at the head of one of the branches of the Wallibu the new deposits have been eroded away leaving the old ma- at the last named place the new ash terial of the rim exposed. Hence still measures six feet in thickness. The deposits exposed now bear out the observation made at the time of the eruption that- the discharge of fine dust and mud were prac- tically confined to the southwest- ern quadrant of the volcano, though comparatively small quantities were drifted to the W. and N.N.W. by the trade winds.

The surface of the mud (24 or dust beds is coated with and protected by a continuous growth of moss (or lichen?). Bunch grass is abundant likewise over much of it, especially in shallow watercourses which have been carved into it. This bunch grass is particularly noticeable on the steep slopes of mud within the crater in its southwestern quarter. The grass grows even on the coarser ash where circumstances have favored the accumulation of any moisture. The eastern, northern and northwestern sides of the outer rim being covered with course ash and lapilli, are largely barren of vegetation, but here and there there is a tuft of bunch grass

and some of the rocks are sparsely [25] coated with lichens and a dry, gray moss. The so-called “New” crater (so-called because it is supposed to have been the locus of the 1812 eruption of the Soufrière) contained no pool of water at the time of my visit, but the area of dried mud in the bottom of the bowl indicated the position and extent of the water standing there during the preceding rainy season. The lowest part of this crater is 330 feet by aneroid measurement above the rim at the point where the lee- ward trail arrives or 3230 feet above the sea. It is 1109 feet above the level of the lake in the big cra- ter. There is no practicable way of determining or even of estimatin

the amount of ash which has (26) been deposited by the 1902-1903 e- ruption in the new crater, because there seem to be no reliable data regarding the depth of the crater be- [Look up Humboldt's Cosmos to for the evidence on which this is called the

anywhere on the top of the mount[17] tain - Mosses, tree ferns, other ferns, bunch grass, and begonias abound. At the base of this wall within the crater strong pseudo-fum- naoles were active in 1903, and some (cf. 1908 note 6k) warmth was rising from their vents in 1908 (?) Now all trace of the fuma- noles has disappeared, except for some reddening of the rocks beside where the fleages the vapors rose. Moss on the rock wall assists in gathering moisture here and vegetation is rank - I noted a pigeon-berry tree four feet high near one of the old vents loci of steam discharge. Moss, grass and ferns pre- dominate. The highest point of the is on the southern side and rim of the new crater is 260 feet above the present bottom. & It is part of the rim of the old crater.

The Rabaka Dry River bed near sea - (28 level remains a barren waste of fine and coarse lapilli a half-mile ac- cross. Its lowest portions, as cut down by the shifting channels of the stream in flood time, are 15 to 20 feet below the general level of the sloping plain which marks the maximum of debris transportation and deposition in 1903. The material is too porous to retain moisture and therefore bears no vegetation. A vast amount new of sand and gravel has been carried and boulders out to sea from the windward side of the mountain, principally or almost wholly through the gorge of the Rabaka. This has been dis- distributed along the coast from the Orange Hill Estate to Comrie, miles 60 to the southward, building out

a flat beach which was roughly (29 estimated as being from 100 to 300 yards in width. The village of George- town has been built upon a plain of similar origin, which is the site likewise of several sugar plantations. The old plain is now ten to fifteen feet above sea level and stretches back to the bases of truncated sea cliffs terminating ridges which come down from the interior moun- tains. [Look up Hannibalds and old charts to determine if practicable whether the George- town plain was formed by or prior to the eruption of 1812. When was G-town found- ed on its present site?] [Ill. 54 B] along the middle reaches of the Rubaka the river bed is bordered

by high walls and terraces of the [30] new ash indicating the extent to which the gorge was filled by lapilli from the late eruption. A lava bed exposed in the bottom of the chan- nel near where the river emerges from the foothills and where it was flooded as an anchorage for the chain which in the pre-eruption days supported the pipe carrying millwater to the Orange Hill estate shows that the stream is now flowing in places at its old level but the coating of new material covering most of the bottom of the gorge shows that the Rabacca has not yet com- pleted the task of carrying to the sea all the fresh ash that is likely soon to go. The heavier floods still undermine the bordering banks

and carry out great quantities (31) of the recently ejected debris. The up- per branches of the river draining the immediate slopes of the cone are free from them less from great banks of new ash than are the middle reaches, probably on account of greater rain and more frequent fall on the higher land and less con- centrated erosive activity. The banks of new material in the gorge bear only a scanty growth of grass and vines, with few bushes, on ac- count of the porosity of the deposit, which permits rapid drainage with consequent slow decomposition. In April (2) 1908 a pipeline for the water for the Orange Hill Es- tate was being laid on concrete piers across the gorge of the Rabaka near where the pre-emption suspend-

ed pipe crossed the stream, but (32 the builders ignored the fact that the foundations of the piers were in new ash in the bottom of a bed corrad ing river. The floods of the ensuing rainy season washed away the piers. Without learning all that they should have learned from that experience, the estate owners then buried the pipe in the river bed at the same place to serve as an inverted siphon for the transfer of the needed water. This too was car- ried out by the next floods (1909). Later a new owner buried the pipe in older material further down stream and accomplished the task with satisfaction. The Waterloo and Orange Hill Estates north of the Rabaika River an

now raising sugar cane (3) more heavily per acre than they did before the eruption covered them with ash. On the Lot Fourteen Estate, which lies higher on the moun- tain than the preceding and which received a thicker deposit of ash, vegetation is pushing its way freely through the new deposit, and the manager of the planta- tions told me that the ground would bear richly. Cane is cut, in fact. ^tivated as far over the old fields as the present means of transpor- tion of products will warrant. The eastern or windward side of the Soufrière receives more rain- fall than the western, and vegeta- tion therefore is much more luxuriant here. ^the upper limit

(bushes (the pigeonberry) and large (34) Treeferns is now between 2400 and 2450 feet above the sea by aner- oide determination. On the leeward side of the volcano the devastation caused by the eruption (verify) was more thorough and recovery on the whole from it has been slower than on the windward, except as favored by greater the retention of moisture due to the de- positing of several layers of fine dust to the southwest of the crater. On this side conditions are better perhaps than on the other for examination and observation description of the return of the vegetation. Beginning at the south, the Richmond Estate was on the southern border of the zone of annihilation or devas- tation and the valley of the Richmond River was the limit of that zone,

receiving only enough of the [35] volcanic eruption cloud to destroy its vegetation and a moderate deposit of new ash. In this valley vegetation has regained its former luxuriance, the new quinquennial palm trees being as large and as numerous as those that were killed. [Ill. 27; 60 A B] The plateau on which the manor house stands was covered with a bed two to five feet ^from^ more than ten ^and hard^ thick. This became well compacted but its surface is covered with grass and decay ^thicker^ ^'cur-for-all'^ bushes, while the numerous drainage courses in it are thick with bushes,

and is now deeply carved by 36 drainage from the Plateau. It is too porous and well drained to support much vegetation and I noted only scanty grass and few bushes. The sea has carried away a considerable slice of the shore since 1902+1903. [Cf. 1902+1903 photos] Ad- vancing up the Bunkers Hill ridge, which is a part of this es- tate, one notes that the fine mud which held its place so well in through cementing together, 1902 and 1903 was never washed away but is now recognizable and is covered with grass and other vegetation [24.22.62 B.+ cf. 1902+1903 photos. Also look up 1908 photos. Same ridge.] [Cf. Sands's article in the News.] also Flett & Anderson

{Insert on h.35} Going northward from the house on (37) the plateau the deposit of new ash becomes thicker and coarser. A squally ten feet deep near the border of the Wallisau gorge does not cut through to the bottom of it. Vegetation is nearly absent from this part of the flat, the grass being very thin and there being almost none of the bushes here. The ash contains many bombs from 6 to 12 inches in diameter and some that are even 15 inches across. [Ill. 22, 62 A] The illustration shows the northern more barren part of the little plateau and brings out the new drainage features On this ridge a ficuss tree is very prominent. It is about 2 feet in diameter and James [illegible] that it has grown up since the erup.

tion The gu-gu palm is a tree [38] of much more rapid growth than the ficus, and the ridge bears many that are 20 to 24 inches in diame- ter. These certainly have grown up since the eruption, for the photograph of the same region taken in 1902 and 1903 show no living trees, while here and there stands the charred trunk of a pre-eruption palm as a mute witness of its destruction wrought by the clouds of incandescent ash. The Wallibou River has carried out to sea an enormous quantity of the volcanic debris which was de- posited on its watershed and in its gorge by the eruption of 1902-1903 but it is still running considera- bly above its old grade. This is

is particularly noticeable in (39 the flood plain at its mouth. This plain extends about one-fourth mile inland from the sea and is about the one-fourth (reiff, p. 248) mile wide at the sea. The head of the delta plain, which is assumed to be at the line where the river leaves the shore hills on its north side (Wallibou Estate), is fifty feet above sea level, by an old reading, and is one hundred yards wide. The delta plain has increased in area since 1908 through cutting away by floods of the low shore plateau on which I pitched my tents in 1908 the at the base of bluffs of the Wallibou Estate on the north side of the river. This low plateau, the top of which was 25 to 25 feet above the sea, was composed of a heavy

(40) deposit of ash from the 1812 erup. (3) tion capped with a bed five to eight feet thick of debris from the 1902-1903 outburst. The washing away of this small plateau exposed the ruins of the Wallibou sugar mill which and buried was destroyed by the eruption of 1812. Material increase of the delta plain has also been effected at the expense of the sea. Accurate surveys as to ing which would establish the amount of gain are lacking, but appearances indicate that 100 yards would be a low estimate to put on the gain at the point. [Dll. 22, 67A; 82 A; 66B] The thickness of the new material in the delta plain can only be guess- ed, but judging from position of the ruins of the old Wallibou estate mill as compared with the elevation of the

Head of the plain above the sea if 41 may be roughly estimated at from 20 to 25 feet. This thickness is sub- ject t constant change until grade level has become established. That recently the plain has stood at a higher level than now is shown by a terrace on its south side [Ill. 22;66 B] That its level is being lowered is shown by the trenches cut by the present stream. Lowering of level in the bed of the Wallibou is most noticeable in the 37 three two-mile stretch between the face of the Wallibou Estate bluff fronting the sea and a rockwall, an old lava constant flow from the Soufriere, where the drainage wooded from the northern slopes of Richmond Peak and the intermittent flow from bare the southern slopes of the Soufriere

in a narrow torrent comes through, flowing in its (42) old channel. Here the river fills its rock bed and is so deep and swift, even in the middle of the dry season, as to be impassable. The same conditions prevailed as this lava wall in 1903 and 1908. In the angles and side ravines of the gorge there still stand lofty banks of new ash which, except for loss of height due to settling, give a measure of the deposit made by the recent eruption and show that it was from 100 to 150 feet deep. (Cf. former notes on this depth) About a mile from the sea is the old bend in the gorge which re- ceived an immense amount of ash in May, 1902, and was the locus of the ash fountain action produced by the access of water to the interior

and which was so well developed (43) here that it then received the name of "Wallison action." [Hovey, Miss Bull and Nat. Geogr. Mag. Russell.] [See. xxxii, 63 A. cf. photos same area in 1902, 1903 & 1908.] The concave side of the gorge now shows nine terraces one above another. The uppermost and possibly the two next below it are the original deposits from outbursts of the volcano and are now covered with sparse vegetation. The remainder are flood-plain terraces. In 1903, hot water was seeping out from the bottom layers of some of these banks and there were places in them where steam or hot vapor issued [cf- 1903 note books]. In 1908, the out- flowing water still was warm (?), but now the drainage level is be- low the old outlets and there is

"no apparent evidence of elevated [44] temperatures remaining in the beds - A half-mile farther up stream begins the section of the northern bank which was characterized in 1903 by counter flows of hot dust [Honey, Bull. G.S. A., to also 1903 Photos] and se- condary eruptions of that material. Here the bed of the stream is at least 30 feet below the level occupied by it in 1903. [How about 1908?] The river ages up now, by being cutting down into deposits which antedate 1902. The massive beds of dry new seasoning ash, desiccated by their southward exposure, discharge much dry sand and gravel. This collects in cones during the dry seasons at their bases and furnishes a not unimportant contribution to the débris carried out by the river when it is in flood. [XXII, 63A + 64B-]

The latter shows the site of a [45] dust crater and flow which were photod in 1903. Note the little pin- nacle then left and still standing in 1915.] The deposits of 1902-1903, like those of 1812 and before, made natural charcoal from some of the trees which they buried. Much of this has been collected by the negro natives of their- land and used as fuel. About two one and one half miles from the sea the stump and roots of a silkcotton tree, changed to such charcoal, based on the stream. stand in their original position. This does not necessarily indicate now that the stream is flowing on its old bed, for the water may well have flowed elsewhere when the tree was alive -

In some places the river [46] is cutting down into its old bed, removing ash which ante- dates the eruption of 1902. One of these places is about two miles from the sea, where the filling of new ash was so deep that the arrived stream cut off a sharp angle of the old wall, thus straight- ening its course. A sharp pinnacle has been left in the middle of the gorge which is about 50 feet high. The upper 15 feet of this pinnacle consists of new material, but the lower 35 feet has been cut through older deposits. Its base is about 250 feet above sea level. The pinnacle is backed by the remains of one of the higher flood plain terraces. Upstream from the pinnacle the large boulders in the bottom of the

gorge are arranged in confused [47] terraces, above which six terraces are distinct [Ile. xxii.,66A] in the southern side of the gorge. Northward of the Draflibon River, it is the only gorge of importance with reference to the recent eruption is that of the Larikai River. This drains the valley between the crater and its Somma ring on the north as far as a line drawn about midway of the longer diameter of the great crater and near the north- western side of the New Crater. With the present barrenness of the drainage basin, no water flows in the Larikai, except after a downfall of rain. Much ash has been carried out of the gorge and off from its slopes since 1908. In that year the slope

f the river bed was gradual for two-1/48 thirds of a mile from the sea. The old lowest of the lava flows, exposed in 1903-1908 as a ridge in the bed of the river about 450 yards from the strand line, is now the capping of a vertical precipice 25 feet high forming a waterfall in the stream. Its exposed edge is a- bout 15 feet thick and the flow rests upon an old bed of ash. As has been noted in previous descriptions of the Soufrière there were many extravasations of lava (augite andes- ite) in the earlier history of the volcano. In 1907 I described Bull, J.S.A. the U-shaped rock gorges of the Lai- kai and illustrated them. The best example extends from 650 to 725 yards from the sea and is in the

fourth lava flow from the bottom [49] of the section exposed by the valley. It and now longer seems to be deeper than it was in 1903 [XX, XXII, 69 A] at any rate, it is evident that scouring of the rock bed is active during the pass- ing of the floods, which still are heavily laden with sand, gravel and bowlders from the sides and head of its valley. Three-fourths of a mile from the sea [cf. distance publ. in article] and 470 feet by aneroid measurement above it is the 30-foot precipice, formed by the edge of a lava flow crossing the gorge, which stopped my advance up the valley on my previous visits. Now a ladder brought with us from Chateauclair enabled me and my men to scale the ledge and

go farther up the gorge; but we [50] Could not go far, for 225 yards ad- vance brought us to the foot of a pre- cipice estimated to be 300 feet high, forming part of the walls of a basin in the stream bed which was 80 yards long by 50 yards wide. The floor of this basin is 620 feet above the sea. The upper part of the precipice is composed of a heavy lava flow which is inclined at a low angle down the gorge. The lower part of the flow is flatter, the upper part roughly columnar in structure. The major portion of the section given by the precipice is unsorted tuff, showing slight indications of aerial bedding. Lines of sand on the walls of the basin some of the show stages passed through in the tilling and excavation of the gorge. [del. xxii, 71 B]

The remainder of the valley is [51] accessible from the rim of the crater, and its whole length can be examined from the ridge leading westward (W.N.W.) from Lanikai Peak. From the brink of the big precipice up to the base of the peak marking the beginning of the Somma ring, the bed of the stream is a trough cut into the upper surfaces of two or three lava flows, which are separated by low precipices, the flows being comparatively thin on their lower edges and not separated by heavy beds of ash. The cirque-like forms which characterize the drainage in the new ash on the leeward (western) side of the Soufrière are well developed on the slopes of the upper portion of the Lani-

Kai Valley, as is shown in the [illegible] [52 tration Plate 00] [ill. XXII, 75 B+A] That this form of drainage character- ized the removal of the ash deposit- ed by previous eruptions is well shown on the north side of the Inasei Valley (Plate 00) [ill. XXII, 82 B] Northward from Laikai Valley, the devastation which was wrought by the outbursts of 1902+1903 was called by showers of ash drifted over the northwestern section of the island by the trade winds. Vegetation was destroyed as far as Balein Point {cf. 1902 Note H}, but the old soil was not injured, hence the restoration of plant life to its former luxuriance has been complete. The caps of fine dust on boulders along shore [the] north of Mone Rande has been described.

A trip up the leeward trail [53] to the summit of the volcano gives one a good idea of the advance which vegetation is making and of other changes which have taken place since the eruption devastated this section of the mountain. The trail now ascends the bottom of the Trespé, or Dry Walliton, Valley for a mile to a point 410 feet by aneroid above the sea. Here begins a ravine a steep zigzag path up the bordering wall of the gorge, which is 300 feet high, through one of the new “Pasant pro- prictor” plantations recently estab- lished in the island under the encour- agement of the Colonial Government. Attaining the edge of the gorge wall 300 feet above the bottom of the valley at the foot of the trail the trail attains

the crest of one of the radial ridges char[54] acterizing the mountain, which it follows to a junction with the old trail about 1000 feet above the sea. Below this point the old trail has become dif- ficult to traverse and has been abandoned. Thus far the old soil on the slopes was not destroyed by the eruption blasts or buried deeply in the new deposits of ash and mud. Hence the fertility disiminished and of the soil was not disiminished and the restoration of the plantlife has been rapid. The slopes and crests of the ridges are covered with luxuriant a vegetation. 41 Near the junction of the new with the old trail there is a Span. ash ash [look up Sands article for scientific name] tree about 25 feet high and with a trunk 12 inches in diameter which has grown up

since the eruption. From the June, '55 tion the trail follows the crest of the left bank of the canyon of the Rozeau River all the way to the rim of the crater, at three or more places the X? divide between the Rozeau and the branches of the Trespe' (Dry Wal- libou) River is reduced to knife- edge breadth or but little wider. As on Brunkers Hill and elsewhere locations in similar places the fine dust has kept its place on the crests of the ridges through the cementation which has already been described. This has given good foothold for a heavy growth of grass (name?) and morning glory (Ipomoea) and other vines. Along the slopes up to 1100 feet above the sea and perhaps higher there are many of the Spanish ash trees 8" in diameter,

[Photos from 1902 set could well be utilized in illustrating the leeward trail.] while along and near the crests the heavy grass is shoulder-high and the vines form dangerous traps for the feet. At 1600 feet above tide one comes upon the location of the old "half- way tree", which was a great figus that was overturned by the eruption blast [Dec. 1902] and all trace of which has now disappeared. About 30 feet dis- tant down the southern slope of the ridge a young figus has sprung up and now is about 25 feet high which will soon take the place of the old landmark in the minds of the users of this trail across the island. Two hundred feet

higher what is now the uppermost (57) clump of pigeon berry trees is traversed at the beginning of the steep mud covered slope of 1902 [all from 1902 photos] The trees are now 10 to 20 feet high and they formed the second camp site of 1915, an excellent situation. Here too tree ferns, club mosses and begonias abound and flourish. Within 100 feet above this little grove vines and grass disappear from the trail and the mountainside becomes much less covered with vegetation. Then for 500 or 600 feet of rise one toils up a steep slope which was coated with gravel-like little bombs by the outburst of Septem- ber, 1902. The stones now bear scarcely the short stalks of a hard,

dry gray moss and some (58) patches of lichens. For the last half mile of the trail, the ridge rises at a gentler angle, mounting but 300 or 400 feet to the rim of the crater. This part again is covered with the compacted fine dust of the 1902 May outbursts of the volcano. This IN material retaining moisture well, its surface is thoroughly covered and well protected by a thick coating of a flat-leaved moss (Moss? Consult Miss Britton and show her the specimen, No. 540, collected at the site of my first camp.) which retard their erosion. Here and there grows a tuft of grass or a little bush. End of St. Vincent Section. "Cluett" voyage follows.

"The Arctic Voyage of the Schooner 'George B. Olcott', Only to Final – rewritten In July, 1913, the American Museum of Natural History and with the co-operation of the American Geographical Society the University of Illinois and the assistance of departments of the United States government, several sister edu- cational institutions and scores of corporations, business firms and private individuals, des- patched into the Arctic regions by way of northwest Greenland an exploratory and scientific expedition, known as the Crook- er Land Expedition. Preparation for the work of the expedition was be-gun under the leadership of George

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Bomp and Donald B. Mac (2 Millan, who were two of Peary's trusted assistants in the admiral's famous dash to the North Pole, but were brought to a sudden halt by the sad drowning on 28 April, 1912, of Mr. Bomp, a sad accident which deprived the world of a most enthusiastic and promising young explorer in the very beginning of his ca- ear. The enterprise was there- organized under Mr. Mac Millan, and constituted a memorial to George Bomp. Its scope enlarged and an ex- [w]as cellent scientific staff engaged comprising Ensign (now Lieutenant) Fitzhugh Green, U.S.N., engineer and physicist, Dr. Elmer Ecklaw, geolo- gist and botanist, Maurice C. Tangney, Ph.D., zoologist, and

Harrison J. Hunt, M.D., surgeon (3 and bacteriologist. To the staff were added Jerome Lee Allen, an expert wireless operator in the United States Navy, as electrician, and Jonathan C. Small as mechanic and cook. Mr. MacMillan took charge of anthropology and ornithology. Thus splendidly equipped for sci- entific work and with an excep- tionally complete outfit of instru- mments and supplies, the Expedition established itself at Etah in latitude 78° 20' N. on the coast of Northwest Greenland in August, 1913, and entered upon the carrying out of its broad and con- prehensive programme. Leaving to others the narration of the experiences of the Expedition staff and the description of the work accomplished by them,

I propose to give an account of of the voyage of the auxiliary schoom er "George B. Cluett", the vessel which was sent northward under charter to the American Museum in the cirummer of 1915 for the purpose of bringing back from Etah the members of the staff and the col- lections and property of the Ex- pedition. The "Cluett" is well known to the American public through be- longing to the Grenfell Association and being engaged in promoting Dr. Grenfell's medical missionary work among the fishermen of nor- thorn Newfoundland and Labra- dor. The master of the vessel is Captain Harris C. Pickels, a deep sea mariner of many years ex- perience in all the seven oceans.

She is a three-masted schooner of graceful lines, one hundred thirty five long over all and one hundred fifty five tons register. Her equip- ment includes a seventy-five horse power Wolverine gasoline-kerosene engine as auxiliary. [H.C.P.F. p. 4] The Museum sent the writer on the vessel as its representative for a skipper, the voyage and provided Captain George Corner whose long experience has as master of whaling ships in- cluded twelve winters in the ice of the northern part of Hudson Bay delayed by adverse winds and other circumstances, the 'George B. Clu- ett' did not reach Sydney, N.S., until Friday, 16 July. There some supplies forwarded by the Museum and procured at Sydney to be landed at Etah in order to en-

able Mr MacMillan to spend (6 an additional year in the Arctic according to his expressed desire, sundry boxes sent to the various members of the staff by their friends in America, Captain Comer and I and our baggage were gotten on board, some repairs were effected to the vessel, a new crew was installed and, at six o'clock beautiful in the afternoon of Monday the nineteenth, lines were cast off from the Ingraham wharf, the motor was started up and we got under weigh for the Far North, full of anticipations of an agreeable and interesting voyage to a rarely visited portion of the globe and a safe return to civilization and home in the early

"autumn. Like many deep sea water ship masters, Captain Pickels and Captain Comer are great story tellers and the evening of our first long voyage was made memorable to me by the narration of some of their varied experiences. for the first twenty four hours at our run first under engine power and then under sail, was 125 sea miles. If we could maintain even that record as an average the suc- cess of our undertaking would be assumed, but internal-com- bustion engines are uncertain agents and the wind is famed for its unreliability. During the following night the engine was put out of commission by a crack which developed in the hub of the flywheel caused by

the constantly recurring necessity of driving in the steel key arising from the looseness of the flywheel, which was a new one, on the crankshaft, which was old and worn. It took us six days to reach Battle Harbor, a Labrador harbor for fishing vessels made famous by the many Arctic expeditions which have touched at and reported from it, whereas under proper conditions we should have made the journey in three days or [Note on No. 10: The Great White mission] most. 9) An incident of our sail through the strait of Belle Isle was a distant view of Barge Rock near Red Bay, where, miles off her course, the steamship "Di- ana", the first vessel chartered for the Cook Land Expedition, went ashore in July, 1913, and would have wrecked the whole enterprise had not exceptionally calm

weather prevailed for several days (9 at the time. Crude repairs, but the best that could be effected under the circumstances, were made to the flywheel by Captain Pickels and the engineer at the little village blacksmith shop, and we sailed away from Battle Harbor at four o'clock on the 26th with revived hope. Begin copying here. We had no more than settled down to fine sailing with the favorable breeze when great excitement a- rose over Chum, the captain's splendid full-blooded Newfound- land dog. The report came off that Chum was dying and the captain went forward at once to investigate. I followed a moment afterward but had gotten no farther than

the main hatch, when I saw (10 the captain jumping for the Starboard fore-rigging, the crew scattering in every direction and Chum coming around the side of the forward deck house, wide-eyed and foaming at the mouth. One glance was enough for me, and I started for my room. I could not go down the forward companion-way to the cabin, because the two mates were already there with Charlie, our cabin boy, on top of them. I rushed around to the after companion-way and down to my room, where I met Charlie, who had somehow managed to get past the mates, who now were in the dining-room braced against the door to keep out the dog, which oc- cupied the forward companion-way

to the exclusion of all others. Chum (II being where he could do no harm, the captain and some of the crew came aft and lassoed the dog and dragged him up onto the deck, where a pail or two of seawater dashed over him cooled him off and brought him out of his fit. Poor fellow! He had too much salt had meat to eat and was suffering from too much warm weather, and too little exercise. He did not attack anyone; he had the headache and merely wished to get into some place where he could be quiet and alone. Late in the afternoon of Monday, 2 August, we sighted the Greenland coast through the mist. The land was Camel's Hump, a mountain 0000 feet high in latitude. We

were being driven by a favorable 1/2 gale and made 210 miles that day. Even the captains admitted that there was “quite a breeze of wind blowing” and we went flying through Davis Strait, crossing the Arctic Circle about midnight of 3 August. The Greenland coast is bold and picturesque, and the grandeur of its scenery is to be compared with that of Norway. Numerous deep narrow fjords indent the shore line. Granitic mountains 3000 to 5000 feet in height rise precipitous- ly from the water. Countless gla- ciers, most of them nameless as well, descend the cliffs from high neve' fields or the heavy ice caps in bands of brilliant dazzling white, the ice cap itself beyond being visible from the heads of the fjords.

If this region as far north as Upernavik, or even as the Devil's Thumb as far at the southern limit of Melville Bay, were as well known to the traveling public as the coast of Norway, it would be visited every summer by tourists from America and they would be delighted with their experiences. The wind died out and flat calm settled upon us half-way across of sound the broad entrance to Disco Bay and at half after ten in the evening of 4 August I went to my room thinking that we should not reach the harbor of Godhavn, Disco, that night, where we were to make our first stop in Greenland. Soon, hhowever, the engineer called me say- ing that the captain wanted me to

come on deck to see a peculiar (1/4) black cloud ahead of us. Directly, across our bows the long line of lofty cliffs forming the southern coast of Disko Island rose, half exposed above a heavy bank of fog which rose as an opaque gray plane, and it looked as if our course lay directly up the slope. Here and there an iceberg could be made out indistinctly through the mist about us, while an occasional one could be seen the pinnacles of which rose above the thin outer edge of the fog bank. The dull cough of howling whales added a touch of weirdness to the scene, which was further varied once in awhile by the boom of ice falling from the bergs. For several minutes our

attention was held by a great (1/5) Slephus bottom whale swimming leisurely past us near the surface of the water without feeding the vessel. When the monster finally surfaced, his flukes were seen to be sixteen eighteen feet across. Screaming above gulls circled about the whale and settled eagerly to the water each time it approached the surface, evidently get- ting food in the shoals made by the animals rising back. As we slowly advanced by use of our engine the great fog bank gradually dissipated and by half after twelve it disappeared altogether and the features of the hills could be dimly discerned. The sun was below the horizon at midnight but the twilight was strong.

Captain Pickels held straight to his 1/6 Course until he seemed almost Ashore, having passed the beacon and the outer peninsula, and Then turning through a right- angle to the East and went through the narrow entrance to the little harbor, which is completely land- locked, and cast anchor in ten fathoms of water at 1:30 in the Morning of 5 August. There are no lighthouses along the green- land coast, and the moderate illumination from the northern sky cast the town and its low, hilly peninsula into the heavy shadows of the great shore cliffs, which rise almost vertically from the strand to a height of 1200 feet above the sea. Neither are

there adequate charts or surf - (17) scientific explicit sailing direc- tions. Hence, to make this little harbor in the middle of the night without a pilot was a remarka- ble performance and we took off our hats in acknowledgment of the captain's skill. As we came to anchor we saw a little procession setting out toward us from the landing place on the rocks in front of the diminutive most pretentious house in the little village. The line consisted of the white rowboat of the Royal Danish Inspector followed by several kay- akas, or native seal-skin boats, with one Eskimo in each. The inspector, whose name is H. Lindow, is a tall, fine-looking young dane, named H. Lindow. He

is the chief government official [1/8] for the whole of North Greenland, a district which stretches from Nord Strøms Fjord (lat. 67°30') to Devils Throat (-74°35') at the southern bor- der of Melville Bay, which is the northern limit of Danish authori- ty. The inspector was duly sup- passed with the letter of introduc- tion from the Royal Danish Minister at Washington to the officials of Greenland which the American Museum had procured for me. secured cordial and permission to land was fully for ganted to the vessel's officers and to land myself. The crew, however, could not be allowed on shore nor could any Eskimos be permitted to come on board, because we had no bill of health from our East-

port, visited by the Danish cor -/19 out there. Our “last port” had been Battle Harbor, where no bill of health could be obtained and where no consuls are stationed. Nevertheless, permission was given for the vessel's our crew to fill our water tanks from a designated brook on the opposite side of the harbor from the village. Godhavn (Good Harbor) is a straggling settlement comprised of five Danish and twenty five or twenty Eskimo families. Many of the lutes show the evidence of admixture of white blood. It is the capital of Danish North Greenland and the most prominent build structure in it, aside from the church, is the building which contains the rooms devoted to

The meetings of the native par - (20) liament. For the past four years the Danish government has been trying the experiment of partial local self-government and the new parliament consists of about six districts, which are subdivided into 37 communes. The experiment has not been a great success yet, but the natives are gradually learn- ing. They are too individualistic in their tempers to adhere to decide by general agreement, which seems for the moment to be contrary to their separate interests. The recently royal government has established here a scientific station here for the purpose of studying the ethnolo- gy, botany, geology and zoology of North Greenland. Dr. Morton P. Borsild, a scientist of inter

national repute, as in charge of (2) the work and he has made and pub lished important studies on the material culture of the Eskimos and on the flora of the Disko Sound region. [Look up the scope and work of this station] Mr. Posild is a steady Dane in the fifties, much interested in green-land and in Arctic life aside from his professional work. He has gotten together at his home interest- ing and important collection of Greenland objects which he is always delighted to show to visitors. Like all the Danes whom I met, he is the soul of hospitality. God- havn is an important station of the Royal Danish Trading Co and in charge of Mr Bistrup, (At the time of my visit was

who is Greenland born, like [2] his father and grandfather before him, his great grandfather having come from Denmark. The agents of this company have certain or ministerial administrative duties to perform in connection with the government, which are important in the ab- sence of the inspector, and they are loosely called "governors". The Danes' houses are sub- stantially built of lumber, mostly of course from Denmark, and have double windows, which are provided with solid board shutters. The stone foundations are reinforced with turf outside, and further protection from the intense cold of winter is secured by banking the houses with snow up to the [ill-photos-church, stone houses]

lower windows at the beginning (23) of the winter. The inspector's home is large and comfortable. It is one story high in front, facing the north, and two stories high in the rear. The office is in front, while the pleasant rear facing the sun is devoted to living and bed rooms in which the windows are kept bright and at- tractive with flowering plants. The inspector and the governor are proud of these vegetable gardens behind their homes where they raise small quan- tities of lettuce, cabbages, radish- s, turnips and potatoes un- der glass. Coal of Tertiary ge- ological age is obtained at several places on the island of Disko 6-10-72 48=3°32' 2 1/2 mi.

"God" is much used at God. Have and elsewhere along the coast. It is rather friable and leaves much ash when burned, but it is an important factor in the lives of the Danes and many of the residents in Danish Greenland. The first building in Godhavn to attract the attention of the traveler approaching from the west, south or east is the Lutheran church, which is situated on high land on the eastern border of the settlement. Local churches and missionaries are maintained throughout Greenland by a Danish Missionary Society with the sanction and help of the Royal Government.

The pastors of these churches are (21) stated to be doing good work among the Eskimos as well as the Danes. At some, if not all, settlements where there are churches the pas- tors are the teachers in the schools as well. I was told that most of the Eskimos can read and some of can write. The hulk of the steamship "Fox", vessel the famous ship in which Captain F. L. McClintock, R.N., made his successful hunt for proofs of the fate of the Sir John Franklin expedi- tion lies beached at Godhavn and is an object to interest all arctic travellers. After completing her work in the Far North, she was sold to the Danes and was used for thirty years in the transportation of cargo.

lite to markers from the mines (26) at Ivigut, South Greenland. She was then refitted and was used as a mail and trading ship along the Greenland coast until the season of 1914 when she struck on a rock and received injuries that were too severe for local repair or to her mit taking her to European shipyard. and she was abandoned. Her mizzenmast is gone and she is otherwise much dismantled. [all photo of ss "Fox"] Cap- tain Pickels secured the end of an oak bit for the museum and several pieces of teak from her o- iginal timbers. The latter proved tery useful during the long months of our detention in the ice through fur- nishing many hours of employment

to some of the crew in making canes (27) and coming chains with terminating in ball and anchor. My chief object in stopping at Disko was to visit and collect speci timens for the American Museum. Ovifak, the locality where Baron Nor- den ski old got his masses of terres- trial native iron in basalt. The captain therefore put the gasoline soon after launch into the water and, about noon on the fifth of August, took the inspector, the governor and me, together with an Eskimo pilot, on board and started westward along Toward the coast to visit Ovifak, the spot some thirty miles distant where Baron Nordenskjold, the famous Swedish scientist and explorer, got his masses of terrestrial

"native iron in basalt", my chief object in stopping at Disko being to visit this locality and collect specimens for the American Museum. The day was perfectly calm and the sea glassy, so that the airing some twenty miles along the coast was most enjoyable. We landed beside a rocky point formed by an ancient lava flow, where the motor boat would be safe, and walked a mile or two along the coast before reaching the exact place where Nordenskjold collected. Then I learned, to my great dis-appointment, that the masses of iron were found in the water and were to be exposed or visible only at low tide, and that none had been found for lack of demand.

for two or three years, we might [29] better have brought the 'Cruett' a long and thus not have been obliged to go back to Godhavn! But we could not have sailed her, for lack of wind, hence we really lost no time. Orifak (or. Ulifak, as it is also called) is at the base of lofty cliffs forming [illegible] Mountain, which is about 2200 feet high and receives its name, meaning Nest Mountain, from the myriads of sea birds that breed in its crevices every summer. Returning to our landing place we partook of an excellent luncheon provided by the inspector and con- sisting of rye bread, Danish butter, anchovies, Roquefort cheese, bottled danish beer and cordial - quite a

spread to biocene in latitude [30] 69°20' N. on the apparently inhabi- table coast of Greenland. Then we boarded our launch and started back to the vessel; on the way we put in at a shallow bay to get some fresh fish from a family of Eski- moo having their summer tupic (skintent) there. Our tender was a stubby little boat about seven feet long belonging to the inspector and not intended to hold more than two or three people. As the inspector, the governor and I push- ed off from the launch, the cap. tain stepped into the bow and loaded the little craft down so that we had only about two inches of freeboard left and we had to still sit as still as the proverbial

church mouse to avoid swamp [31] ing. The shore was bordered with a heap of kelp and other seaweed two feet high and ten feet wide which made a bad place for landing, when our tender bow stuck in this pile, the following gentle surf wave curled over the stem and wet us in good shape and our condition was not im- proved by wading through the seaweed. We found the natives drying, salting and smoking sea trout, which are abundant in the bay. We bought some fine fresh ones for the equivalent of a few cents in American money and then the Eskimo threw in two large trout for a bit of tobacco, the natives being extravagantly

fond of the weed - The trout as [32] used are from twenty to thirty inches of their flesh long. Their color is somewhat light or pinkish than that of the salmon, and they are finer in texture and more delicate in flavor. The smok- ing is done by means of a fire of dried savin in a little structure built of stones and turf - [Figure] Regaining the launch without trouble, but only in two trips instead of one, we continued our homeward journey in the waning late. sunlight of the evening ing. There was scarcely a ripple on the surface of the ocean, but the gentle swell reflected in mar- elous beauty the colors of the night clouds, intensifying them indeed to gold, purple and green.

I feel that Bradford, Stokes (33 and other artists were justified in the color schemes that they have used in depicting Arctic Sunsets. When we reached the “Cluett” the sun was well down behind the mountains, but the waning moon was hanging mid- way over a deep valley cutting the cliffs near the village. I thought that it was the new moon, until I realized that the crescent shape faced the wrong way and was on the wrong side of the sun for that phase of the orb. The weather continuing to be perfectly calm, so that it was useless to try to sail, I took the day launch the following and, with the inspector, the governor and

Captain Corner set out on a twelve - (34) mile run eastward along the coast to see the nearest of the coal beds of the island. The coal is of Tertiary geological age and was formed in embayments in the older lava beds, when the land stood at a lower level than it does now. It proves that the climate of Greenland was much milder then than it is now, in fact that it was warm temperate or perhaps subtropical in character [verify this], for The coal bands contain large fragments of car- bonized wood which is more like charcoal than it is like true coal in texture, besides abundant impressions of leaves and other plant remains.

Climbing to the top of the shore cliffs, which here are only about one hundred feet high, we came upon a narrow plateau sloping upward to the base of the lofty parapets of reddened beds of lava and volcanic ash. The plateau is covered with a thick carpet of vegetation, consisting of the Arctic willow, a savin, several flowering plants among which a yellow poppy is conspicuous, grass, mosses and lichens. But the largest of the willow "trees" have trunks only six or even feet long and they are prone upon the ground or nearly so. The flora of the southern coast of Disko is of par- ticular interest to botanists, because the region forms a border or transi- tion zone between the sub-arctic and Arctic regions. The view from

from the top of the cliff was beautiful [36] in the extreme - Disco Sound lay un- der a summer sky, with, the glassy, blue water sea dotted with scores or perhaps hun- dreds of icebergs of all sizes, and the surrounding mountains, green clad half-way up their abrupt southern slopes but bare red and brown above, with great patches of snow here and there and the vast permanent ice cap covering and crowning all. We were much interested in the kayaks or native boats of the Eski- mos who clustered about the "Cliff" offering models of boats and sledges and earings of walrus and narwhal horn for sale or barter. The kayak is a re- markable little boat about fourteen feet long and twenty to twenty-two inches wide at the waist, when

"built for one person's use as it [37] usually is - the frame is of light wood which is covered completely with seal hide, except in the middle where the user sits. Five hides, denuded of the hair, are needed for the cover. They are stretched over the frame while wet. and sewed together with sinew [x]. The covering must be accomplished at one sitting and is done by several women working together, like New England women at an old-fashioned quilting bee. Kayaks are cranky affairs, but the men paddle about in them fearlessly, goin' miles out from shore when hunting or fishing, protecting them- selves from dashing water with a seal- securely skin apron fastened around the cock- pit and tied about the body under the arms. A double-ended paddle

stuffed with bone or ivory is the mo. [38] the power and it is used most skill- ful craft fully in driving the kayaks at a great- speed through quiet waters or in con- tending with waves. On the kayak's deck are carried harpoon, duck spear, rifle, fishingline, knife and ice knife, and the boat is used not alone for catching seatrout and birds, but also halibut, seal, narwhal and walrus. [How- for south do they catch narwhal and walrus?] The bow of the kayak is edged with bone or ivory as a protection against ice and the ice knife is used to prevent young ice from cutting the sides of the boat. The inspector and the governor came off to take supper on board our vessel, the former doing honor to the occasion by donning his full

"Special uniform" Yankee No - [39] than had prepared an extra menu, according to his standard and our guests seemed to enjoy the meal. At any rate, it was a change from shore diet, and landsmen seem to like ship food as much as sailors like to eat on land. After supper I started up the vic- trola which I was taking northward for Admiral Peary as a gift from him to Osolok, who was one of his com- panions at the North Pole. It devel- ed that the inspector was a violinist, hence he greatly enjoyed the Kreisler, Elman and Zimbalist records that I had with me for the Crocker Land Expedition staff, while the opera records brought to mind old days in Europe. About ten

o'clock Mr. Porsild, having returned 40 earlier in the evening from an east- came on board ward cruise in his power boat, He told no much about Greenland and said that we were quite early enough for the attempt on Milvito Bay, be- cause the preceding winter had been exceptionally severe, and the bay would be choked with ice till late in the summer. Our guests all left us by mid- night and at 4:30 the next morn-ing, the seventh, Captain Pickels began heaving the anchor, since it seemed best to all of us to put out to sea in spite of the continuing calm. The engine propelled us out clear of the coast and then was stopped, the broken fly wheel mak- ing the captain already change run-

iting under power. The day was (41) clear, bright and beautiful, but we made little progress. Sunday was the same, and the captain's observations showed an advance of only 35 miles for the two days. I began to get anxious about our jour- ney on account of the long continued calm. From Battle Harbor to Godhavn our daily runs averaged 1/4 mile, a rate that made me think that per- haps, after all, we had not made a bad mistake in chartering a sail- ing vessel for the trip to Etah. But with the engine in poor shape, four days of flat calm was another and very different story and made me at any rate begin to feel very anxious regarding the ultimate success of our voyage. Sunday afternoon we took the

launch for a run over the glassy sea to Disko Fjord, a deep, picturesque indentation in the west side of the island, [illegible] landing in a cove behind a low point formed by the basaltic columns of an old lava flow, where we found a sim- ple canvas "A" tent and a skin forming a settlement called Maligiak. tupik. About fifteen Eskimo men, women and children were grouped on the beach, some of whom were visitors from the op- posite side of the fjord, their oomiak, or large skin family boat, being drawn up on the shore. Most of the natives that we have seen thus far show an admixture of more or less white blood, in fact scarcely a half dozen of the adults seemed pureblooded or nearly so. At this,

little settlement on Disko, Ford me (43) If the young man was blue eyed, red haired and rather fair skinned, while another had wavy black hair and the features and skin of an Italian. One of the young women was rather good looking and none was repulsive in appearance. [All topics and growth.] Our engineer had his photograph taken in the act of rubbing noses with (the Eskimo substitute for kissing) the pretty one. She blushed deeply and was at first reluctant to be im- mortalized in this fashion, but the gift of an old, brightly colored neck- tie overcame her hesitancy. The northern portion of Disko and Island is high, its scenery is grand. The shore cliffs are sheer, rising 3,000

(waters) feet and more from the shore, while (44) three mountains, the summits of which are only eight to twelve miles from the coast, tower close together to heights of 4,186, 4,587 and 5,110 feet above the sea and dominate the whole re- gion. Around the end of the island we got an attractive glimpse of the entrance to the Vaigar, the nar- row strait, with lofty, precipitous sides, which separates Disco Island from the Nugsuaks Peninsula of the mainland. Between Nug- uuaks and Svartenshukts penin- (13 37) (Go on to third page beyond.)

sulas lies the important Umanak [45] Fjord, which is one of the chief sources of the icebergs drifting down the Green- land coast. Seven active glaciers in icefalls descend from the inland ice cap into the branches of this body of water which are of sufficient importance to receive names on the Danish chart, while a half-dozen others are considered too insignificant for special designation. More bergs come out of Umanak Fjord than from Disko Bay, though the latter receives the discharge of the great Jakobshavn glacier and icefall which is the most active ice stream in Greenland and perhaps in the world, its summer rate of motion being stated to be 150 feet (3) per day. [See Northern and Disko I. and iceberg off Godhavn.]

"Monday was a better day for [46] us and at 4:30 that afternoon we had an additional 90 miles to our credit, and Tuesday was still more satisfac- tory, a run of 152 miles with a good stiff breeze bringing us to anchor at Upernivik at seven o'clock in the evening. The wonderful basalt- cliffs which we first noticed on the islands in Disko Bay extend beyond Umanak Fjord to Keker- tarsuak Island, thus forming more than 200 miles of the coast. The thous- ands of beds of lava and lapilli which make up the cliffs and moun- tains are striking evidence of the tremendous volcanic activity that characterized this part of Greenland during the same geological era, the Tertiary, when lavas were build-

"big mountains and covering [47] hundreds of thousands of square miles with liquid rock of the earth's surface in Iceland, Scotland, India, western North A- erica, the Andes Mountains and the island regions of the Pacific and At. lantic Oceans. North of Kefertor. Snak Island the rock is again granite or related material and the scenery reverts to the character of that south of Disko Bay. The [Photo] entrance to Laxe Fjord is through a gateway that reminds one strongly of the approach to Yosemite Park, The two thousand foot vertical cliffs on the north side closely resen- bling Sentinel Peak in profile. But a great glacial icefall is in view thru the entrance. Keersorsnak (Sanderson's Hope), five miles south of Uperrivik is one of the prominent landmarks of the

coast. Its granitic sides form a forbidding shore and rise abruptly by from the sea more than 1200 feet, climinating in a peak 3467 feet above the water. Frost action has formed in the cliff small arches like the great Washington arch of the Yosemite Valley are stopped at Upnisk by the advice of American Arctic tra- vellers of experience to gather infor- mation regarding ice conditions in Melville Bay, our own experience was that the people there knew little or nothing of value on the subject. They said that the preceding winter had been one of exceptional se- verity and that the bay was pro- bably full of ice, but they had no source of definite information.

since spring, when the Eskimios make their last trips across by sledge. The little town is built on the almost bare rocks at the southwest point of a small granite island the highest point of which is 700 feet above the sea, and there is no beach It might have been better for us had we utilized the good breeze during which we arrived at Whinnik for driving along up the coast as long as it lasted, tho' the calm and head winds that probably pervened would have negatived our progress just the same. or good landing place facing the anchorage. The anchorage, further more, is poor being in 23 fathoms of water on a small ledge or bank. Hence the yearly steamers do not lie here but moor in Danish Havn,

a little, almost land-locked Cove (50 nestling among the hills a half- where a wharf and warehouses have been built. mile north of town;) The sea was too rough to permit us to land the evening of our arrival or to allow any kayaks to come off to us, but early the next morning the water was calm and several of the odd little crafts were clustered about our gangway and their occupants were offering for barter ducks, fish, a few articles of local manufacture and, of all things most unexpected in this out of the way corner of the world, cigars for barter or sale. The kayaks were not so good as those which we had seen at Godhavn, and the skin clothing, carvings and models of sleds and boats were not so nu- merous or so well made.

"cigars were of Danish manufacture - [?] were of time and proper quality, as a matter of course. Soon after breakfast, I went ashore with Captain Conner, who made friends with the Eskimos while I and called upon the governor, Mr. A. Winterborg, whom I found to be a serious interesting man of thirty-five years old, rather forty speaking German fluently but struggling hard when trying to converse in English. The Danish population of Upernivik consisting governor Winterborg, wife and two small children; his newly arrived assistant; the Lutheran pastor, wife and two children, and the former pastor, now a very old man. The governor's wife informed me joyously that she and the pastor's wife

"were looking forward with pleasure [52] to the ensuing winter, because a young physician was coming out from Denmark and bringing his wife on the steamer due within a fort- night or three weeks. [But was there a steamer due? Is not one of the two vessels calling at Upernivik a coasting vessel? Perhaps Rasmussen's vessel is one and the Royal Trading Co's the other. Schröder went home on the "Cap York" in the lat- ter part of September, 1915.] Uper- nivik society was to be gay in the winter of 1915-1916. The Danish carpenter, Schröder by name, who had been building the residence provided for the doctor was to go home after his year's work in the Arctic. The Eskimo population

of the settlement numbers a - 153 but one hundred souls, but most of the men were away, fishing and hunting. The Danish women find the winters terribly long and lonesome, with nine months of cold weather and the Arctic nights for 90 days without sun lasting from early No. vember to the beginning of February. The men lead a more active life than the women and do not find it so hard. The Danes regard Greenland as missionary ground and are now working hard to raise the moral as well as the physical tone of the Eskimo population. They derive less revenue from the colony than is required for the expenditures which they lay out upon the colony, but they discour- age and in fact prohibit commerce

with other nations. The church (54) at Upernik is now housed in a new building and is fully equipped with alter, high pulpit, reading stand, baptismal font, melodion and bell, and can accommodate an au- dience of eighty. School is held in a room occupying the ground floor of a house near the church and has accommodations for about thirty pupils. The pastor and his wife are the teachers. Manual training in the working of bone, ivory and wood and in sewing forms an important part of the simple cur- riculum, which otherwise com- prises reading, writing, simple arithmetic, geography and singing. The pastor and his wife are the teachers and the school year lasts the usual nine months. [Photos] The

"Danish Greenland education is [55] now slowly extending into Northwest Greenland through women who have recently married into the Smith Sound Eskimo tribe and through the es- tablishment of missionary stations at Cape York and on Inglefield Gulf. At Godhavn I had looked at only the exterior of the Eskimo houses, but at Upernivik I got glimpses of the interior as well. The house of the church organist is quite pre- tentious, as befits his high station in the community, but he and his wife both have white blood in their veins and their abode shows the influence of Danish ideas. The building is a wooden box about twelve feet square and eight feet

high inside, walled and roofed [56] outside with turf blocks two or more feet thick. Entrance is gained through a narrow, boarded passage way about eight feet long and five feet high facing the north. The in- terior fittings consisted of a bed flat, form, which is used as a settee during the waking hours, a cooking stove, a wall cupboard and two small tables. Daylight is admitted through two small windows that can be opened in the west wall of the house. The inside of the house is painted blue, and everything is scrupulously neat and clean. I have described this dwelling at such length for the sake of comparison with a gen- [illegible]ine Eskimo igloo or house a few yards distant. This was built [a-]

four the same size as the other, built of (57) [illegible] partly excavated in the sloping bank and the walls completed and the roof built of stones covered over with turf. The entrance passage was so low that I had to crouch nearly double to traverse it, avoiding with but partial success the dog offal covering the ground. The single room contained merely the bed platform as furniture, and was heated by the open cooking-fire in the middle of the grossed earthen or stone floor and was lighted by means of an immovable window containing formed of six little panes of glass in the western wall. The smoke from the fire found its way out as best it might through a

a small opening in the roof. [158] A man and his wife, his two brothers and his five children make this hovel their home, while in winter eight dogs sleep occupy the narrow entrance passage. native Several huts in the settlement look and smell worse than this one, but a few look better from the outside, while the surroundings of all leave much to be desired in the way of cleanliness. We are familiar with the Danes as a cleanly people, but it is evi- dent that they have not been a- generally tle to impress this characteristic^ into the habits of the natives un- der their jurisdiction. Even at Upernivik the Danes grow lettuce, radishes and car-

rots under glass outdoors, while $9 in their homes they make roses, geraniums and other house plants grow and bloom profusely. Potatoes do not flourish, even with the greatest attention. Disko coal is used as fuel though it is not nearly so good as that from England. But it is not nearly so expensive, costing only 7 kroner ($1.89) per long ton. An evening of violon music on board the

continue our journey - at 160 though the breeze that sprang up during the night was from the north and was light, the Schooner was under way by gasoline power about 6 o'clock in the morning of 12 August, and, as soon as we were clear of the small islands of Upernavik, stood off N.N.W. toward the ice pack. This we sighted early in the afternoon, only twenty-eight miles from land, raising an impenetrable white barrier before us extending in each direction as far as the eye could see. The pack is composed of countless large and small bergs jammed more or less closely together, with intervening sheets of floe and pan ice - a cruel mass to be avoided with the greatest care. The wind coming off from it was piercingly,

cold, in fact we did not know another warm day, judged by home stan- dards of temperature, for nearly a full year. He began to encounter low- lying fog and we had lots of it during the next few weeks. Often the sky would be clear and blue overhead while it was [illegible] thick near the water that we could not run with safety. For four days, baffled by light head winds and calms, we slowly skirted the edge of the pack, sailing northeastward till the morning of the sixteenth, when we were off Devil's Thumb, where Melville Bay is considered as beginning. Then we changed our course to north- ward and began our drift across this ice-blocked body of water, which was always the bane of the whalers who used to fre- guent the North Water of Baffin Bay.

"An incident of our journey" (62) along the edge of the pack, was the securing of our first seal - Early one calm afternoon during our journey along the edge of the great pack now Mate Davis came into the cabin and called Captain Pickels to the deck. He came back directly saying that a big hooded seal was sleeping on a near by cake of ice. He got into his boots while I slipped off my kamikes and fol- lowed his example, and within a few minutes we were seated rifles in hand in the small boat, with Captain Come sitting in the stern and gently paddling us toward the seal. At 150 yards we opened fire and we certainly wasted ammunition in our excitement, for between us we fired thirteen shots at the poor beast. We got him all right and he proved to be an old bull, nine feet long from tip to tip weighing about 6 37 230 40 4

"five hundred pounds: The skin will make [63] a good rug. High power rifles do awful execution, the two bullets that struck the seal in the head simply pulverizing its the skull. The sea was alive with a little shell fish known as Pteropods belonging to the class of Pteropods and swimming freely by means of wing-like appendages. These small animals form an important item in the food of the whales of these waters. As we approached land we got our first good view of the front of the continental ice cap, now at the level of the ocean and stretching along as a straight-edged, lowlying, horizontal white cloud between the blue sea and the blue sky. We did not quite overtake the midnight sun on our way north- hard, but we were in continuous

daylight for weeks. There was so much light, even at midnight, that our old cook, "Yankee Nathan", had difficulty in adapting himself to it. Soon after two one morning Captain Pickels found the cook busy making coffee in galley. When the captain asked what was going on, the cook replied "Why, sir, I'm late for breakfast now. Just look at the sun!" About midnight one night I heard Nathan in the cabin calling "Charlie, Charlie! -- that boy. Why don't he answer. Charlie!" I asked what he wanted at that time of night. "I want Charlie, sir", said he, "because it's time to begin to get breakfast and that boy's sound asleep.. Charlie! Get up." But Charlie remained dead to the world, and the cook finally became

convinced that the clock at least [65] did not indicate the near approach of breakfast time yet and left the scene. To quote from my journal for the 15th of August: 11 p.m. The evening has been clear, calm, and beautiful beyond adequate treatment with my powers of description. There are a few clouds in the sky, but the sun is disc is free from them. The color effects differ in different quarters of the heavens, but all are beautiful and they change rapidly as the sun sweeps along the northern horizon. Icebergs, sea, mountainous islands and coastline, fjords, distant glaciers and ice- caps look weird and mysterious in the soft twilight. The noise made by the gentle wavelets striking into the waterlevel grooves of icebergs

and floes is musical and plain, in the otherwise intense silence. From time to time too there comes to our ears the booming sound made by fragments of ice falling from bergs, or by bergs separating from the great glaciers in the fjords. Nature, for the most part, seems asleep under this midnight sun just as in the darkness of our nights at home, but here and there a seal raises his head above water for a moment or a belated bird flies across my field of vision, while Chum, our big Newfoundland dog, does not know whether to go to sleep or to play with the men whose watch is on deck. 11:25 p.m. The sun has sunk below the horizon, but wonderful purples, reds and yellows still come from

the clouds, while the brilliant orange [67] of the sky itself illuminates the whole scene. Midnight. The strong sun- set colors are central in the northern sky above the sun - royal purple in the horizon clouds, brilliant greenish gold in the band of clear sky above them and bright light yellow on the still higher clouds. To the west, the warm colors are much in evidence, while to the east the sky is gray and cold. It seems strange that there should be this difference in such nearly ad- jacent quarters as the opposite sides of the sun. 12:30 a.m. The sunset colors have faded and the sunrise colors have appeared, but one wonders that they should be so much weaker and colder than the sunset hues of an hour ago, when the descending

sun was as far below the horizon [68] as the ascending sun now is, and too the disc is barely out of sight- 1 a.m. The sun is above the horizon line and another "day" has begun. The first two days beyond Devil's Thumb, which is an island present- ing the appearance of a tower or pillar more than a half-mile high and less than one-third as wide, we sailed seventy miles. This was encouraging enough, considering the reputation borne by Melville Bay, and I had dreams of getting through the dread body of ice in a week's time, but matters changed the next day and six o'clock of that morning found us moor- ed to a cake in the edge of a vast field of ice that stretched away to the east, the north and the west as Photo

far as the eye could see, even from [69] the masthead. It took the vessel our eighteen days just four weeks to drift, sail and motor around the curve of the coast 140 miles by our course to Cape York, the northern boundary limit of Melville Bay. It was then the 4th of Septem- ber and we ought to have turned back Perhaps at once and headed for home, since our progress continued to be blocked by ice floes and bergs, and young ice was forming every night to a thickness of a half-inch or more. But we were anxious to accomplish the purpose for which we had undertaken the voyage and relieve the minds of the men who had been watching at Star hour by hour since the first of July for the arrival of a ship to take them home. Turn back beyond Guadaloupe to St. Vincent

(Quest voyage, continued) 170 It took us eight days to make our way with and through the ice along the Crimson Cliffs, past Parker Snow Bay and the Great Petawik Glacier be- tween Cape York and Cape Athol, my fifty miles, where the turn is made in- to North Star Bay. In spite of our distress over the currently recurring delays, the journey across Melville Bay was not without interest and incident. When we fairly got into the pack and had need of tools with which to con- tend with the ice it developed that the vessel had on board no ice anchors, no pushing poles, only one long boat hook, no ice-saws, no pickaxes, no ice-axes, no ice chisels, no dyna- mite, in fact we had nothing.

expressly intended for combat. [illegible] ting the ice which a vessel, and particularly a sailing vessel, should have in order to meet the emergen- cies that are more than liable to arise in the course of a voyage into the Far North. To add to our difficulties, it was not safe to try to arm the engine in its disabled and poorly repaired con- dition on kerosene and we had on board less than eight barrels of gasoline when we left Sydney. This meagre supply of fuel had been sadly depleted by the incursions made upon it between [illegible] Sydney and Battle Harbor, at Disko Island and at Upernivik, so that it had to be carefully con- served crossing Melville Bay for

taking advantage of favorable (72 openings through the ice when there was no wind -- and it was almost always calm, while we were in the pack! - and for getting out of the way of dangerous ice bergs. During our first few days in the ice Chum made great sport for us. He liked to trot around upon the floes and he soon learned how to go up and down the ladder leading from the ship's rail to the ice, walking the rungs as well as any of us. But he had conceived a dislike to Captain Comer without any apparent cause, the aversion seeming to date from the day when the captain donned his khaki overall trousers soon after leaving Battle Harbor. Perhaps

Chumm blamed him for the (73 short rations without meat that have been served the dog since he had the fit on the day when we left Battle Harbor. At any rate, in the afternoon of our fourth day in the pack, Chumm without warning bit Captain Comer sav- agely in the hand. Captain Pickel, to the dog's at once decreed Chum's death and delegated the mates to execute the sentence. So poor Chumm was taken out onto the ice and made to pay the extreme penalty for his surliness. There was nothing else to be done, but the event made the day sad for us all, be- cause the dog was playful and compassionate and liked by every man aboard, including the victim of his spite.

Saturday, 21 August, was [74] typical of much of the time that we spent in Melville Bay. My journal records that the day was rainy calm, overcast and foggy, the third in succession N day on which it had not been prac- ticable to take an observation for the determination of our position. Fourth day of being gripped fast in the vast field of ice, 300 miles from our destination and no relief in sight. Ice, ice everywhere, dotted here and there with small pools and short lanes of water, no variety to be seen in any direction from the masthead except some islands and headlands rising through the white desert to the east of us. The next afternoon the captain got an observation and determined that we had advanced,

mainly by drifting, nineteen miles in four days. Sometimes the scene changes very rapidly in these arctic ice fields. One day, for example, it was 26 August; we were closely sur- rounded by ice pans so thickly pressed together that they formed an impassable barrier for miles and miles. A polar bear was sighted stalking seals a mile or more astern of us, and Captain Picket, one of the crew and I started for it. I soon turned back on account of getting a bad fall on an upturned ice cake, but the captain and his man kept on after the bear. A narrow lane stopped their advance 300 yards from their guar- ty and the captain opened fire but without success and they returned to the ship. For an hour after they got back the ice maintained its for.

"bidding aspect and then suddenly it" "began to show signs of movement a-" "mong the cakes. Within a few minute" "narrow" "black lines were visible between the" "winding across the fields of deadly" "white and in less than a half hour" "our engine was started. We mo-" "tored through widening leads for" "several" "hours, until we came near a broad" "zone of thickly set icebergs, thousands" "of them it seemed, stretching seaward" "from Cape Melville for miles. The" "captain turned shoreward seeking" "to get around this barrier and" "about midnight we were in a per-" "fect labyrinth of bergs, many of" "which overtopped our masts, loom-" "ing high above us in most impres-" "sive fashion. The great masses" "of ice were beautiful under the strong"

"colors of the sunset clouds, but [?] not finding any favorable leads along the shore and fearing that some of the bergs might come together and crush us, Captain Pickelsteins ed about and motored out to sea for two hours, finally mooring the vessel to a big floe. Another week of drifting, sailing and motoring carried us along forty miles nearly on our course and found us between the headlands of Cape York Bay. We were in sight of Meteorite Island and I had a chance to look through my binocular at the place where Admiral Plean secured the great the largest in the world, iron meteorite, which was christened Ahnighito and now is one of the chief treasures of the American Museum of Natural History."

Had there been as much ice in 178 Melville Bay in 1897 as there was in 1915 the Admiral could not have secured his prize when he did. Nine days more were required to tra- verse the eighty miles remaining to We reached turned Cape Athol, where when toward North Star, Bay about 6 o'clock in the morning of 12 September. Then the breeze that we light had been profiting by for half the night died out entirely and we were drifting about in the strait between Cape Athol and Wostenholm Island. At 9 o'clock our eyes were gladdened by the sight of two boats making through the ice floes lying between us and North Star Bay. One of them was a motor boat and we thought at first that it might be the "George Borup" or Crocker Land

Expedition craft coming out (79) vessels to meet us. Soon the two [illegible] got free from the ice and the power boat forged ahead into the open water and made toward us. Then we perceived the Expedition Boat that it was not the "George Bird" and as it approached we saw stand- [illegible] ing on the bow a very tall white man, with bare head, whose flowing hair, full beard and skin clad figure gave him the appearance of a old time Norse viking of the olden times. This proved to be Peter Freuchen, the Dane who has charge of the [illegible], North Star Bay station of the Cap York Committee, which is the trading and scientific organization whose head is Knud Rasmussen the famous Greenland explorer

and ethnologist. Everybody (80 in Northwest Greenland from Cape York to Anorotok, Eskimos and white men alike, call Mr. Frenches by his bap- tismal name, so I soon fell in with the general usage and address- ed him as Peter. He is married to an Eskimo woman, Mavvana by name, and lives very much as the Eskimos do. He has lived He is 34 seven years at Umanak - years old and is a graduate of the University at Copenhagen. Peter gave us much news re- garding the Crocker Land Expedition staff and offered to take me in his power boat, whose name is "Ingerlis", to Etah and bring back the men who could go home and as much as practicable of theirs and the Ex- bessides a supply of gasoline for the "Chippott" pedition property. The boat which the "Ingerlis" was towing out

through the ice of North Star (81 Bay was the little 35-ton schooner, the "Cap York", the vessel which Rasmussen had sent out with three supplies for the Danmark station. She had left Upernivik on 14 July and arrived in North Star Bay a week ahead of us, having and one-half taken seven weeks for the journey across Melville Bay which had us a full taken a month for us to accomplish. The "Ingerli" is a stout clinker-built boat about 38 feet long and 9 feet beam. She was built and owned by Captain Koch, who after he was done using her in connection with his crossing of the Greenland ice- Mr Rasmussen- cap, sold her to Peter. She has a small hold or locker forward, a four-berth cabin amidships and

an engine room aft, where a one-1/82 cylinder kerosene engine is in- stalled which drives her along at a speed of about seven knots an hour under favorable conditions. When Peter reached the "Clivet" that Sunday morning he had with Proceeding provisions from the schooner him four Eskimos. Leaving two of them on board the schooner we started for Etah in the afternoon, taking Sigdlu and Hendrik as our crew, and the schooner's jolly boat as our tender. Sigdlu was one of the four Eskimos who accompanied Peary to the North Pole in 1909. In spite of his vigor and his prowess as a hunter, he is quite a dandy, for an Eskimo, and likes to look well and attract favorable attention. Hendrik, who unlike the Smith Sound Eskimos has a surname, which is Ohlsen, be-

longs to one of the South Greenland (83 tribes, He is a high-toned Estimo, quite an aristocrat in fact, having visited Denmark and been received there by the king who bestowed on him an "Order of Merit" decoration rendered for his services in connection with danish East Greenland the Koch expedition (verify). Hen- drik is very polite and thoughtful and he likes to treat his friends to cigars "like Americans." He left the "George B. Cluett" with the understand- ing that the schooner was to follow us, if wind made it practicable. That Sunday was what a lands- man would call a superb day. It was clear, cloudless and calm,- The North waters of Baffin Bay was free from large masses of pan ice, the conditions were perfect for

"Cluett" could easily have made Etah in 24 to 30 hours from Cape Athol, if her engine had been in pro- per repair, but alas the engine was almost broken down, it would not run on kerosene, would scarcely run on gasoline and the last barrel of gasoline had been poured into the tank while we were off Cape Melville two weeks before. "One of the important com- missions of the "Ingerlis" was to bring back from Etah a supply of gasoline from the Expedition stock to enable the "Cluett" to get across Melville Bay. In fact, had the schooner's engine been in good condition when we left Sydney, the vessel would have accomplished in all probability

her mission satisfactorily and [85] would not have been obliged to winter in the Arctic. As I have said, the weather was superb and the North Water was free from impeding ice, when the "Ingerlis" left the "Cruett" for the run to Etah. The trip would have been most enjoyable, had I not been so anxious about the success of the whole enterprise. Wostenholme Island, whose outer shore we skirted, is a bold composed mass of the most ancient granite and gneisses against which lie the edges of red and white beds of sandstone, geologically more recent, both rocks presenting high steep cliffs to the water. Near the nor. thern side of Wostenholme Island Named for Sir John Wostenholme who helped fit out Hendrick Hudson in 1610

rises the rugged, cone-shaped Hal - (86) Simples Rock, bitersea composed of granitic rock, The second and larger island lying across the en- trance to Wostenholme Sound is Saunders Island. This presents a strik- ing contrast in appearance to Gros- an almost flat-topped block tenholme Island, being composed pri- tially of the red and white bands are Huronian sandstone, whose hori- zontal in the lofty southern cliffs but inclined gently toward the north in the section exposed by the west-- facing bluffs. It receives its name from Captain Saunders whose vessel the "North Star" wintered in the neigh- boring bay, which is known by her name. The next important indenta- tion of the coast north of Wosten-

holme Sound is Parry's Bay, 187 which presents an attractive vista with the Three Sisters Bees Islands stretching across its entrance. This bay presents an attractive vista and is of great interest to the geologist on account of the variety offered in the glacial phenomena displayed along its shores. Next comes Booth Sound characterized by Fitz Clarene Rock, a lofty sugar loaf of basalt ris- ing just within its mouth, and then Cape Parry claims attention with its high, bold front of basaltic columns projecting well into the North Water under the 77th Parallel of latitude. The tidal currents run so swiftly around this cape that the coldest weather is needful to make ice and hold it together in a surface

"safe for kamatik (dog-sledge) (88 travel even in the middle of winter. But I will not weary my readers with a detailed description of the coast of Northwest Greenland. All is bold, picturesque and interesting, but it has been described more than once. At half after three o'clock in the morning of Monday, 13 September, we reached Kiatak, the Eskimo settle- ment on the southeastern shore of Island, Northumberland where Ootah, broth- er of Bean's polar companions lives. I stopped there to deliver a victoria which had relieved the northward guides sent up to him by the voyage of the Cluvett. Admiral Peter assured me that we should not be delayed an hour on our journey, because Kiatak lay almost on our direct course and land- ing was easy, but he reckoned without

his host, in spite of his familiarity, [89] with the Eskimo character. While we were on shore delivering the machine and setting it up, the "Ingerlis" ground ed on the rocks and we were kept prisoners on the island for seven hours, until the tide came in and floated the boat off again. When we left to deliver the machine and set it up, the boat Peter told Hendrik, who serves as engineer, to push her off cast from shore and anchor, but the Eskimo contented himself with letting the mooring lines out somewhat and lay down to sleep, having been up all night running the engine. When Peter [Il. Ootah + Micholu. Igloo? &] and I came back to the cliffs in course of a half-hour we were just in time to see the "Ingerlis" keel over on her side, breaking the

mast short of as the level of the 190 deck, my heart went into my boots, for it looked as if the boat were a wreck and I had momentary visions of being marooned there at Kiatake midway between the "Cluett" and the Crocker Land Expedition men and unable to communicate with either of party before the sea ice should form with sufficient strength to per- mit sledging. It looked like an aw- foul predicament, but when we reached the boat we found that the breaking of the mast had occurred at a joint and had not injured the hull her and that she was lying easily on the rocks. Hendric and Sigdler had made the top of the mast to the rocks in order to keep the boat up- righ, but the stick was too weak for the duty.

There was nothing for us to do but wait as patiently as we could for the tide to ebb and rise again till the boat should float once more, - a matter of six or seven hours. Enook Eskimo, Inuk by name, was just establishing himself at Kiatak as a teacher missionary of the Lutheran church and had only recently finished and moved into his winter igloo or stone and turf house. He was rather ahead of the other natives in going into winter quarters, they being still in their summer tupics or skin tents. Peter and I went up to call on the missionary and his wife and I had my first experience of the inside of a Northwest Greenland igloo. The woman regaled us with some

excellent coffee, brewed over a [92] native soapstone lamp-stove burn- ing seal oil or narwhal oil by means of a wick formed of dead muskta. + killikobak (Omit to 1.94) moss. The igloo is shaped very much like half an acorn and its cup which have been cut in two lengthwise. It is built of stones, and the crevices between which are filled in with turf. The ceiling or roof is constructed of boards, whole bones and long flat stones covered over wholly or partly with flat stones and the whole is covered with a thick layer of turf in which a small hole is left for purposes of ventilation. The walls are lined with a tapestry of seal skins sewed together for a wind shield. This is kept in place through being fastened to wooden pegs or walrus

bones built into the walls for the [93] purpose. Above the inner opening of the tunnel-like entrance passage was a space about thirty by thirty- six inches in dimensions in the wall of the igloo is left for a window. This space is filled in with strips of seal intestine sewed together, the membrane being translucent enough to admit light sufficient for the inmates. A peep hole an inch across is left in the middle of the window. The furniture of the igloo is sim- plicity itself, consisting of a gen- eral or family bed-platform, oc- cupying the inner half of the room and a camp or stove plat- form at a slightly lower level on each side of the entrance. The flat- forms serve likewise as settees,

and the floor answers for a table [94] during the winter, where the frozen carcass of a seal or section of a narwhal is allowed to stay while the people hack pieces off from to eat, each at his own will. A well-built igloo, thoroughly banked up and over with snow, is a comfortable residence even in the coldest weath- ers; one or two large lamp-stoves giving plenty of light and heat. By eleven o'clock the tide had risen so much that the

Our route lay northward be (95) 'tween Northumberland and Herbert Islands across the entrance to Ingle- field Gulf. Along the southeastern coast of Northumberland Island, massive trap dikes stand out like buttresses from the cliffs and connect with great beds of basalt which form the tops of the bluffs; while six great glaciers descend the northern slopes of the island and (form) a striking and beau- tiful feature of the scenery. Inglefield Gulf presented a beautiful vista toward the east but its attractiveness had to be resisted. Peter pointed Cape Cleveland out the spot near where Admiral and Mrs. Pardy spent the winter when their daughter, the famous Snow Baby, the only white child of this bleak region, was born. The weather

continued calm and the sea glassy [96] and practically free from ice, but toward the latter part of the after- noon we encountered a swell in the ocean which was heavy for a boat no larger than the "Dager- lis". -About six o'clock, when we were still four or five hours' run from Etah, the engine suddenly stopped working and all Hendrik's inves- tigation and effort could not discover ^ the seat of the difficulty or start the motor. Peter, Hendrik and Sigd- lue got into the tender and began towing the "Dagerlis" to a place of safe- ty for the night, while I manned her tiller. It was slow, hard, heart- breaking work. The tide was with us and there was no wind, but the swell for the rowers

made it difficult to keep the away - [17] [illegible] motor boat from checking the mo- mentum of the little row boat. At first two of the men rowed while one steered, taking turns at the oars, but soon Hendrik became so sea- sick that he was of no further use and Peter and Sigdler had to do all the rowing. We were off Cape Chalon when the engine went out of commission, and the men kept at their grueling work for six long hours before we came to anchor in the darkness of mid- Silwardi night at Sarfjok near Childs Gla- cier in Sonntag Bay, the body of water which caused the death of Dr. Hayes's astronomer in 1861. The evening had been beautiful, but none of us had enjoyed it much

on account of the anxiety due [98] to the additional delay and the precarious condition in which our breakdown placed us. We were only thankful that the calm weather had enabled us to reach a safe an- chorage that night, for a strong northeasterly gale broke upon us about [14]o'clock in the morning and raged for more than twenty- four hours. The thrashing of c[and a]nd c[a]sing [of our anchor] the boat aroused us from the deep into which we had fallen after plumber produced by the labors of the long day. Henderson discovered the seat of trouble with the engine and remedied it, but the wind was too strong to permit our round- ing Cape Alexander and proceed to Etah, now only twenty-five miles distant, hence he an[d

Sigdru took our heavy, four-inch 199 line ashore and made it fast to a column of balsa, to supple- ment the holding powers of anchor, which had begun to drag. While the Eskimos were attending to this task, Peter and I were having excitement enough on our ac- count, for the dragging anchor and the as yet ineffective mooring line allowed us to swing around against a small grounded ice- berg. This gave us some anxiety for a time lest we be dashed to pieces against the berg or a big loose block on its top face and crush us, but we finally swung free again and succeeded in hauling ourselves back into a safe position. Within a half-

hour the ice block slipped (100 from its perch on the berg and rushed into the sea with a crash. It did not strike the place where we had been lying against the ice mass; but we were glad, just the same, that we were fifty or more yards distant, when it came down. When the Eskimos had gone ashore they had neglected to remove to the "Ingerhis" three boxes which we had been towing in the tender, and now when they tried to come off to us again they found their little boat too heavy to push through the surf and they were obliged to leave their cargo on the rocks. The wind seeming a bit less heavy, Hence about 10 o'clock Peter took Sigdie and rowed in to get the boxes, which contained some supplies.

for Etah and Peter's harpoon gun (101) for walrus hunting. This was a mistake that came near costing us the ten- der, on account of the ice-laden surf beating heavily on the rocks, the sup- ply of ice blocks coming copiously from the front of Childs Glacier, near at hand. Peter and Sigdlu succeeded in landing, then the engine was started, and the tender was dragged through the dangerous surf, her painter having been made fast to the mooring line. We managed to bring the little boat alongside and Hendrick bailed her out. The ice had stove a hole in her side, but she was still usable. There was nothing more to be done, except wait for high tide and less wind and surf, so Peter and Sigdlu stretched them-

elves out on shore in the sun, (102 while Hendrik and I did likewise on the "Dingho". About 2 o'clock conditions had improved so much that the men were brought off in safety; but it was not practicable to get the boxes, and, an hour later, we hove up an- chor, cut the mooring line and start- ed again for Etah, although the wind was still high. Soon we began to encounter groups of walrus, and in the course of the afternoon we passed scores, perhaps hundreds, of these strange beasts. They were mostly females, accompanied by their young, but there were a few adult bulls in the herds. The animals are well stocked with curiosity and these seemed

unafraid. they rose to the sur- /103 face and swam so near the powerboat that they looked ferocious enough with their strong tusks, bristling snouts and glaring eyes. We passed in safety the wall- like front of the great Cape Alexan- der Glacier, but the still fierce wind prevented our weathering the cape itself, and we had to put back and anchor and moor the

can always sleep when he gets (104 a chance, no matter how hard or uncomfortable his quarters may be; but anxiety and the strangeness of the surroundings made my slumber light although my bunk was all right, and about 3 o'clock I crawled out of my caribou skin sleeping bag and went on deck. Daylight was already strong, the sky was clear and the wind had almost died out, so I went below, roused my companions and erged a start. Soon we were under way, but not before Peter had congratulated me upon my birthday, he having recalled a remark that I happened to drop in Enook's igloo at Keatak.

Cape Alexander is a bold head -1/05 700 or 800 feet high land of sandstone capped with a heavy ^ bed of basalt projecting as a sharp point ten or twelve miles from the mainland. Among Arctic travelers it is noted for the strong winds and tidal currents which prevail around its abrupt face, while the Eskimos dread it on account of the open usually to be encountered then during the which is when often there all winter, forcing sledges to traverse the promon- tory by means of two somewhat dif-ficult glaciers three or four miles back from the point - We rounded the cape without incident and we were relieved to be on the best stretch of On the south side of the Cape Alexander from which our journey - is the grave of Dr. Sar-ntag, Dr. Hayes's valued assistant and astronomer, who lost his life from shock caused by falling into the winter sea.

"of which more found at the northern "sight of Bessie Jane in a can" 21.61. A near where the "Angolis" was an- (106 chores at Salfelt in the Leaygale. About 6 o'clock in the morning we rounded Star Island and set the Crocker Land Expedition Headquarters at Ecoh came in sight across Fowler Fjord around Wilson Island, and I could not suppress my excite- ment as being so near my goal. Three-quarters of an hour later we came to anchor in front of the house. [ill. view of house] Dr. Tanquay, zoologist of the expedition, was coming down the steep pathway to the landing place and Peter

off so tired from the cold and felt in a more g force and adjo and their interesting valley - made La Freniere visited the n. you come year ago and found at almost imprudent. He found an old man of humors on ocean the fit for the main books! called out at the top of his voice [107] "Dr. Hovey is with me", but Taup, as he was familiarly called in North Greenland, could not believe him, not recognizing me in my deer skin coat and all the Crocker Land Expedition having given all hope of the coming of any relief ship in 1915, when the first day of Sep- tember without the appearance of one. Passed

"with Dr. Tanquam At the house were Lieut. Green, [108] Mr. Ekblaw and Mr. Allen, but Mr. Mac Millan and Jot Smalle were down at Nerke, about 40 miles south of Etah hunting wal- rus for dog food and Dr. Hunt had started up the ice cap only the day before on a three week trip after caribou. The four men at headquarters gave me a hearty welcome, as soon as they recovered from seeing me at all so late as the fifteenth of September, and im- mediately dispatched Noocarhing- one of the Eskimos attached to the expedition. wak for Dr. Hunt's first camp on Brother John's Glacier at the head of Fouke Fjord, in the hope that he might have been delayed for some reason long enough to receive Ekblaw's and my letters.

announcing my arrival - 1/09 Four hours later Nooserpingnak returned unsuccessful from his trip. Delays are dangerous in the Arctic, hence, as soon as the staff had glanced at their most important home letters, preparations were begun for departure on the next high tide, we having been fortunate enough to arrive at high water. Peter went over to Provision Point, a half mile from Headquarters, where the "Erik" had deposited the Expedition supplies in 1913, and got the gasoline desired for the "Cluett" and the kerosene and oil needed for the return journey of the "Ingerlis". After breakfasting on canned baked beans, which

(32\nwere not a great novelty after (110 months aboard ship, I time for an inspection of headquarters and a glance at its surroundings. The faced the northwest and. headquarters house seemed well arranged for living, work and comfort. The large general room occupied the middle of the front and was lighted during the summer months by means of a generous window on each side of the main entrance to the house. Its walls were lined with shelves for books, apparatus and provisions while one side of in the middle of the room was the dining and work table behind which stood the large range for cooking and heating Out of the sides of the room opened the four

sleeping rooms for Mr. MacMillan and his staff, two on either side. The rear of the house was devoted to a large work room, a store room, and a photographic dark room, while above was a general attic. The house stood on a west-facing slope, and coal, dog meat and other sup. plies were stored in a covered gal- lery on the west and north sides, be- (very difficult to read) Riviera and other districts, on Route One in the town high grade road to be seen present level of the sea, but more than 300 feet above the its highest points are not position I decided because gave rise to no criticism.

low the level of the windows, while the space under the front half of the main building was used as quarters for the Eskimo helpers of the Expedition. Boxes of dog biscuit and pemmican were piled up outside. One of the curiosities of the place was an Eskimo igloo built of boxes dog biscuit, no apparent dan- gers of starvation there. The day was beautiful and exceptionally calm for Etah, where the wind seems to blow hard all the time. During the afternoon the Expedition records, negatives, exposed photographic plates and herbarium, together with the men's most important personal effects were taken on

"Ingerlis" and stowed //1/3 in the little forepeak and on the cabin floor where they made a pile level with the sides of the bunks. This was flattened out with blankets making a place and for clothing, where three men^ could sleep in comparative com- fort, provided they did not toss about too much in their dreams. Eight men made a very full complement for the thirty-eight foot boat to accommodate. We got under way at 6:35 o'clock in the evening, skirted Star^ Wireless Island, where we saw the little house, which Green^ and Allen spent several months of their fruitless effort to get wireless into communication with the distant outside world,

and stood into Hartsstone (114) Bay for the purpose of picking up some clothing from the camp where two of the men had been hunting hares, near the location of Dr. Hayes's headquarters in the winter of 1850-51. As we approach- ed the land we saw scores of hares scurrying up the cliff side. Ekblaw counted 67, after a good many had disappeared. They looked like a flurry from view of snow and made one wonder at the starvation of so many hares trying to winter in the Arctic. About 40'clock the next morning we arrived off Nerte, which lies near the Great Morris K. Jesup Glacier and is a favorite resort for walrus hunting. After much shouting, we roused Mr. MacMillan and Small Jot, and they came out of their tents, surprised enough to see the 'Dr-'

"Gerlis" with us, particularly [1/10] me on board. Jot was the first one to reach us, coming out in a canoe which he constructed after his own plans and which he con- sidered to be a great improve- ment over the Eskimo boat. He is a boat builder by trade, but his substitute looked rather odd beside the real thing as made by the natives. It being necessary that some one stay by the Expedition property at headquarters, Mr. Mac Millan said received at once that he was the one upon whom the duty devolved, especially since he had sent word to the American Museum in the spring 1915 saying that he wished to remain a year after the return of the main portion.

of the staff in order to carry on [116] his ethnological and archae- ological work along the shores of Smith Sound and Kane Basin. At MacMillan's request I left Jot with him as assistant, Jot wish- ing to remain since he likes the life in this bleak country. After about two hours of busy conference, we respectfully bade the men good-bye, leaving with Mac his bundle of letters, a box of rifles and ammunition and a half box of oranges. The last to the sailors, was a great treat after two years' defrivation of fresh fruit of all kinds. Our journey across Whale Sound was without incident, except that we saw much more ice than on the northward trip.

three days before and that we saw many groups of walrus in the water and on the floes. The big fellows did not pay much attention to us, seeming to know that we were in too much of a hurry to spend time hunting them. It almost broke the hearts of Peter, Hendrik and Sigden, not to be able to stop and get some of the animals or even to kill them. Too much dog and man food was thus being allowed to slip away to suit their ideas of what was proper. In the latter part of the afternoon as we were running along past the entrance to Booth Sound, where sugar-loaf island Fitzclarence's Rock is a prominent and well-known landmark, the wind suddenly became strong from the

southeast and soon a gale was surging against which we made but little progress. We five Americans were lying in the cabin, keeping dry from the dashing spray, when Peters called down the companion way in a terrified voice, "The boat is sinking". We did not know what boat he meant but we crowded up the little passage two at a time, getting sadly in one another's way. When we reached the deck, we found that the waves were swamping the tender which we were towing loaded with gaso- line. Under Greene's directions, the boat was with difficulty hauled up alongside and Allen jumped in with a line around his body. Six or seven cases of gaso- line were passed up safely on board

the power boats, but four cases (119) went adrift and soon disappear- ed behind us - we tried to make Granville Bay, but the gale was too strong for us and we put back to an anchorage near the entrance to Booth Sound, where we lay all night comfortably enough, though drifting spawlers (small ice bergs) gave us some anxiety from time to time. The wind was still very strong the next morning, but we got under way again soon after day- break and skirted the coast nearly to the entrance to Granville Bay. Then directly we pushed out across Western Robson Sound, the way being clear, heading for the west end of Saunders Island, to intercept

"the 'Clarett', in the improbable (1)20 case that she was taking advantage of the favorable through strong wind to follow our course to Etah. We crossed the sound in safety, but went no further than the western end of the island off a gentle slope where some old ruined igloos be- token former occupation of the land by Eskimos, for there we en- countered a vast field of tightly packed ice pans and bergs which filled the space between Saunders Island, Wostenholm Island and the mainland. Turning back, we skirted the northeastern shore of Saunders Island making for Oomanats, as the head of North Star Bay. The cliffs along this side of the island are magnificent-

in their almost vertical rise /21 or more 7 1000 to 1300 feet from the sea. and are beautiful in their strong, horizontal banding of red, purple and white quartzite, an ancient, cross-bedded sandstone. The cliffs form a great breeding place for birds during the sum- er season, principally the ekfats or murres, and the island is a favorite resort for the Smith Sound Eskimos during the latter part of May and the month of June. They live in tupics on the low-lying land at the western end of the is- land while they get the birds for food and clothing and collect eggs for food. A story is current to the effect that some South Greenlanders came to the island

once for the purpose of getting [122] birds and eggs. They let them- selves down by means of a rope to a shelf on the face of the cliff, but while they were at work some [illegible]- nak residents who resented this poaching on what they regarded as their own bird preserve took away the rope and left the intruders to escape from their dangerous perch as best they could. After some days of difficult work, the men succeeded in getting down and they left the region never to return or to be followed by others. Late in the afternoon of the seven- teenth, we reached the "cliff" and were more than glad to get there safely, the wind then being on the increase again. The vessel was

"at both anchors" 1/23 out well up in North Star Bay, about two miles from the little settlement known as Umanak, where the Cape York Committee has its Arctic station and Pete lives. We found the deck filled with Eskimo men, women and children and it seemed as if the whole population of Umanak were on board the schooner Captain Pickels in fact told me that nineteen of them had spent most of the time on the vessel during the three days that the "Cluett" had been lying at anchor there and that they were a lazy, good for nothing lot, willing to eat and accept everything that was offered them and to do nothing in return. There was, however, one woman in

the party who displayed en-(124 enough to make a pair of kamiks (seal skin boots) for the captain. We learned later, I am glad to say, from experience as well as from what was told us, that this attitude of the natives was peculiar to North Star Bay, the less efficient people gravitating in Greenland, as elsewhere, to the vicinity of the white man and his trading station. The pickings there are better, and it is easy to get a living, by working on the sym- pathies of the white man and those of the energetic natives who come in on their travels or for purposes of trade. At North Star Bay mat- ters are somewhat aggravated by Peter's open hearted, generous

nature, for he can never [1/25] see any apparent distress without relieving it to the best of his ability, even at the cost of personal priva- tion. When taxed with being too easy in his dealings with the Eskimos, he replied "But what is to do? I can not see them hun- gry." As a tribe the Eskimos of Northwest Greenland, as the region from Melville Bay northward along the "American route to the Pole" is called, are an independent, self re- liant, kind hearted people, pos- essing some characteristics that are not excelled among the most highly civilized races or nations of the earth. One of the visiting party on board the Chett " was old [illegible] merkusax the last survivor of the Eskimo

immigrants who came across [126] Smith Sound from The Baffin Land region some sixty (?) years ago and mingled with the Smith Sound Greenland natives. The old man, who was estimated to be seventy five or eighty years of age, could not resist the temptation offered by the ship's dietary and he overate to such an extent that he had an attack of acute indigestion and died a day or two later. The white men were surprised that the ship's supplies should be so attractive, even to an Eskimo. The chief regret aroused by the man's death seemed to be due to the fact that he had just been provided with a new kooltah (caribou skin coat). and superstition would prevent the

use of the garments by anyone else. [27] It was too bad to have to waste a brand new Koolah in that way! Supper was just over when we arrived at the 'Cluett', but a few minutes work sufficed to set an ample meal before the light hungry men who came in on the 'Juger- dis'. By this time, the wind had increased again in violence so much that the power boat could not go safely to her anchorage, hence Peter, Hendrik and Sigdler were obliged to spend the night on the Cluett. Accomo- dations were arranged for the four men brought down from Etah and by midnight all hands had turned in, glad to be housed in more roomy quarters than

those provided by the little four //128 or boat We were up before the next morning anxiously re- garding the weather brought up from the States and to get started for the South since every hour's delay now added to the danger of our being caught in the ice and forced to spend the long winter in the Arctic. The gale, hovever, still continued with practically unabated force and it soon became evident that we could not land all the supplies that had been brought up from the States for the use of the Expedition, without dangerously delaying our start for the South. It was already past the middle of Septem- ber and every hour's detention

increased in geometrical [1/29] progression the liability that we might get caught by the ice and forced to spend the long winter in the Arctic. How I mourned the defects of the "Cluetto" engine! Conditions at Etah, howerver, did not prove to be so serious as I had expected to find them. Strict conservation of resources had been inaugurat- ed early in 1915 and a careful inventory had been made in [the] fall after the hope of a ship had been given up which showed that the supplies which had been furnished on a liberal scale for three years, with margin enough for even a fourth year emergency, would really be adequate for the coming year for [all essentials]

the seven white men at head - (130 quarters. They would be ample therefore for the three men left at Etah, especially when the abundance of game in that region is taken into account. With the help, therefore, of the Expedition men the most desirable articles were selected from my stores, including 300 pounds of sugar, which was the most crying need at Etah, and, together with trading material and per- sonal boxes addressed to Mac Millan and Hunt, were made ready to go ashore with Peter as soon as the wind might permit his departure. At 5 o'clock that after- oon the "Ingerlis" ventured to depart with all the rations and fully as much of the cargo as it was safe for her to take. (Continued in Martinique book.)

Property of E.O. Hovery, American Museum of Natural History, New York, U.S.A. For Guadeloupe see other end of this book. St. Vincent begins on eighth leaf from this end. Continuation of "Cluett Voyage" after p. 58 of St. Vincent. AMNH LIBRARY 100231697

(E.O. Hoey.) Saint Vincent, 1915. (Guadeloupe) ('Cluett' Voyage)