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{ "text": "Estimies from the southbound party. III\nSo I started out to meet them and the\nchief ran out and overtook me, and we\nintercepted the first two Kamatics near\nour ice-supply berg. But it was not Peter.\n(Itskasook) Metik\nIt was Innootok and Mitke from Cape\nSeldon and Ahnugnalotko with his wife\nand three children from Cape York on their\nway to Unanak to trade. Innootok (Itsk-\na suk ?) got a bear on the way across Melville\nBay. A long journey for trading! There are\nabout 70 dogs on the ice beside the ship.\nNumber of narwhal tusks, one at least 8 ft long.\n\n24 April. Monday.\nClear and cloudless. Calm, or light\nvariable wind - E at 9; W at 10 tc.\nTemp. min +10°; 9a. +18°; 12m. +20°; 3p. +24°\nThe rowboat was put out onto the ice,\nthe main hatch was opened and fourteen\n``` ```json\n{}``` `text`: \"\"Estimies from the southbound party. III\\nSo I started out to meet them and the\\nchief ran out and overtook me, and we\\nintercepted the first two Kamatics near\\nour ice-supply berg. But it was not Peter.\\n(Itskasook) Metik\\nIt was Innootok and Mitke from Cape\\nSeldon and Ahnugnalotko with his wife\\nand three children from Cape York on their\\nway to Unanak to trade. Innootok (Itsk-\\na suk ?) got a bear on the way across Melville\\nBay. A long journey for trading! There are\\nabout 70 dogs on the ice beside the ship.\\nNumber of narwhal tusks, one at least 8 ft long.\\n\\n24 April. Monday.\\nClear and cloudless. Calm, or light\\nvariable wind - E at 9; W at 10 tc.\\nTemp. min +10°; 9a. +18°; 12m. +20°; 3p. +24°\\nThe rowboat was put out onto the ice,\\nthe main hatch was opened and fourteen\"```text``json\n{}``` `text`: \"\"Estimies from the southbound party. III\\nSo I started out to meet them and the\\nchief ran out and overtook me, and we\\nintercepted the first two Kamatics near\\nour ice-supply berg. But it was not Peter.\\n(Itskasook) Metik\\nIt was Innootok and Mitke from Cape\\nSeldon and Ahnugnalotko with his wife\\nand three children from Cape York on their\\nway to Unanak to trade. Innootok (Itsk-\\na suk ?) got a bear on the way across Melville\\nBay. A long journey for trading! There are\\nabout 70 dogs on the ice beside the ship.\\nNumber of narwhal tusks, one at least 8 ft long.\\n\\n24 April. Monday.\\nClear and cloudless. Calm, or light\\nvariable wind - E at 9; W at 10 tc.\\nTemp. min +10°; 9a. +18°; 12m. +20°; 3p. +24°\\nThe rowboat was put out onto the ice,\\nthe main hatch was opened and fourteen\"```text``json\n{}``` `text`: \"\"Estimies from the southbound party. III\\nSo I started out to meet them and the\\nchief ran out and overtook me, and we\\nintercepted the first two Kamatics near\\nour ice-supply berg. But it was not Peter.\\n(Itskasook) Metik\\nIt was Innootok and Mitke from Cape\\nSeldon and Ahnugnalotko with his wife\\nand three children from Cape York on their\\nway to Unanak to trade. Innootok (Itsk-\\na suk ?) got a bear on the way across Melville\\nBay. A long journey for trading! There are\\nabout 70 dogs on the ice beside the ship.\\nNumber of narwhal tusks, one at least 8 ft long.\\n\\n24 April. Monday.\\nClear and cloudless. Calm, or light\\nvariable wind - E at 9; W at 10 tc.\\nTemp. min +10°; 9a. +18°; 12m. +20°; 3p. +24°\\nThe rowboat was put out onto the ice,\\nthe main hatch was opened and fourteen\"```text``json\n{}``` `text`: \"\"Estimies from the southbound party. III\\nSo I started out to meet them and the\\nchief ran out and overtook me, and we\\nintercepted the first two Kamatics near\\nour ice-supply berg. But it was not Peter.\\n(Itskasook) Metik\\nIt was Innootok and Mitke from Cape\\nSeldon and Ahnugnalotko with his wife\\nand three children from Cape York on their\\nway to Unanak to trade. Innootok (Itsk-\\na suk ?) got a bear on the way across Melville\\nBay. A long journey for trading! There are\\nabout 70 dogs on the ice beside the ship.\\nNumber of narwhal tusks, one at least 8 ft long.\\n\\n24 April. Monday.\\nClear and cloudless. Calm, or light [TRANSCRIPTION_TRUNCATED_DUE_TO_LOOP]
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Westerly and variable to calm in pm. [1/27] Temp. min 28°; 9a 34°; 12m 34°; 5p 30°; 9p 30° At 9 a.m. Norman called down the companion way that Peter was alongside, and surely enough there he was, looking fine and with his dogs in good condition considering their long journey. He was followed shortly by Pingasut and Harrigan, and not long afterward by Eqingnak and Alinuklinguaq. They left Cape York yesterday morning and slept at Akpat. Open water off Parker. Snow Point forced them to come over the cap from Akpat (Sutton). Eqingnak is going to live at Umanak or north of there to hunt walrus. Peter and his Eskimos turned back from Green and company two marches south of Umanak, leaving on 5 March, leaving our men in the care of Mr. Balla, high priest of North Greenland, who was returning to his home at Egedesminde. This was most fortunate for all parties concerned, since Peter could not have gotten back till late summer by steamer, if at all this year, if he had been obliged to go any farther. As it was, he had some trouble coming up on account of poor ice conditions. Naturally a great load has been lifted from my mind by this safe return with good reports from Green and Tangmanq. The journey has been much more expensive than Peter estimated in advance that it would be, but that is a frequent experience in traveling. Peter brought tobacco for the crew as well as for me, hence I might have saved myself any discussion w.r.t.P.P.! [clear removed blanking from next side]
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5 May. Friday. High, detached cirrus clouds, calm. But heavy south or S.E. wind began to blow about 5 p.m. and sou'e half gale. Max 44° Temp. min. 24°; 9a.38°; 12m.42°; 4p.42°; 8p.38° Before seven this morning Stukasuk, Knitte and Koludena came in from Unanak without having seen Peter Co on route. Koludena is going to Cape Seddon to marry Inekotok's widow, and his Kamitile is loaded down with his share of the housekeep- ing things. He even has a frame for a kyock. The men slept today and started on for Cape York via the ice cap about 6 p.m. in spite of its high wind. H.C.P. and I were planning to goven to Cape York with these men and visit the new meteorite, but gave it up on account of Peter's report that Alug- Nodalbloho and Erik were about to come northward ('in a couple of days'). We (or I at any rate) would not have cared to start over the ice cap in the face of the gale now raging. I went out alone to Broken Rock Point, 6+ miles walk. Did some photographing and took some geological notes on the Bird Cliff. Lovely spring day and I was out on my walk about five hours, en- joying it very much. Most of the time I was too warm wearing my netcha and therefore carried it on my arm. Warmth has settled the snow so that the going was very good. H.C.P. himself fired grass on cliff slope this afternoon, greatly extending area burned by the crew yesterday. Did not seem to burn into the peat, they say, and soon we'll have a fine green lawn to look at. Plenty of Kamik grass left, if they don't burn over a lot more of the grassland - I hope that they let it alone. Chief just a foot under me sided about this evening. Taylor climbed the cliff last night and saw the sun at midnight.
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6 May. Saturday. 1/31 Clear, Cloudless, calm. Last night wind died out between 3 and 4 this morning. Temp. min. 27°; 9a. 38°; 12m. 41°; 5: 30½. 3¾. max 44° “Thousands” little auks were seen by some of the crew flying about the cliffs early this morning. Ben shot one and ate it raw. The birds disappeared before I went on deck at 9 o’clock. Mate heard some murres. Crew removed after shelter house and I extinguished cabin lamp at 11:17. We all are rejoiced to have the sunlight enter the cabin once more. Tried to do some work on St. Vincent, but could not accomplish much with the noise of the work over my head and the talk of the captain and men. Snow is soft for walking. Quite a pool of water around the vessel in trench left by removing the banking. Glad to get fresher and dryer air in the cabin - developed roll of films after noon - overexposed: Chief took off his beard and looks odd enough. After dinner and cards left vessel at 8 p.m. and walked for two hours, visiting front of the big Cluett glacier, route covered about 4 miles. All the array of icicles has disappeared. I am sorry not to have gotten a photo of it, but chances of success seemed poor, anyhow. Blue color gone now through soft and porous chlora str. of four due to warmth of sun’s rays. Vegetation is beginning to show life - willow turfs softening. Stream of water 1-2 ft. wide and 2-4 inches deep is flowing away from the glacier. Saw none coming from its other glaciers, but I did not go close to either of its bases. Ground is quite boggy and spongy where there is earth or turf. Men is showing frogs in the moss. Canvas house was put on on 14 October, hence has been on a week less than seven months
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1 May. Sunday, 1/32 Clear + Calm. C4 at 9 a.m., but clouds (after noon or nearly so) max 38° Temp. min 12°; 9a 33°; 12m 37°; 4p. 36°; 6p 35°; Took photos 9 x 16, 4-12, of captain and crew in winter costume on ice near vessel - From 11 to 4 out alone to big gulch and via that to top of Bird Cliff and the summits on the plateau. Took elevations – Bay ice at gulch 410' 12m – 12:45p. Edge of cliff first section 1170' = 760' A.J. 12:53p. Do above pinnacle photo'd 1190' = 780' A.J. 1:02p. Do. highest point second section 1250' = 840' A.J. 1:35p. High point above Broken Rock Pt. 1560' = 1150' A.J. (highest point visible from Clvert) 1:42p. Highest point of bluff mass 1580' = 1170' A.J. 2:55p. Bay ice at foot of gulch. 400'; . average wld. add 5ft. to A.J.'s given above. In big gulch about 100 feet above bay there is a 3 foot boulder of schistose augen gneiss augen consist of Karlsbads turn of feldspar about an inch long, extremely thick, parallel position, long axes parallel to schistosify. Handsome specimen. Plateau has on it some of RudtLak's lines of stones for the attachment of rabbit snares – may long ante date Rudtlak! Three remains of little ant caches, one of which was near edge of cliff above the pinnacle - Saw us erratics surface being wholly cored with frost-rounded, subangular, and few angular fragments of local rock, nearly or quite in place. Diabase sill or dike shown as a band of darker debris amid the feldspastic gneiss. Change from feldspar gneiss to hornblende gneiss can be made out despite of coating of lichens. Above Broken Rock Point the gneiss is very black from the contained hornblende - Beautiful day and beautiful view – Wide open lead around Cape Dudley Digges and extending northward well off from point of Petowitz Glacier and toward Cape Athol. Toward Cape York leads are broad and
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Numerous. Network of open leads ex-1/33 Tends westward for miles. Limit was hidden in low fog showing proximity of open water. Later this low bank of fog rolled in beyond Conical Rock and even sent a streamer into south side of bay - soon dissipated. Pelowik Glacier, like the icebergs, has lost most of its blue color through softening of the ice and does not look nearly as beauti- ful as it did ten days ago (26 Apr.) when I walked over the mountain after leaving Mere - Noted two ivory gulls, a falcon perched on a rock on the plateau, snow buntings, one little auk, a fly, a caterpillar, willow catkins shed- ding their seeds, two widely separated last year's eggs prob. of little auk. Gentle breeze from S.S.W. or Southwest. Much grass, moss and earth in patches on the plateau especially above the eastern part of the Bird Cliffs. Rudder freed itself from the ice today and the ship is now loose all around. 8 May. Monday. Clear, cloudless, calm. Light puffs of wind, variable, in late afternoon and evening. Temp. min 18°; 12m.39a, 34°; 12m.37°; 4h.37°; 7:30 h - 30° Max 39 Crew bent on spanker and rive gear for all the big sails. We could sail now if we had to, or had a chance! They hoisted spanker course in bending it on. Out with H.C.P. to Broken Rock Point looking for the local "quarry" of soapstone used by the Eskimos. H.C.P. visited it with Puddle but it was hard to find again un- der the changed conditions of snow and light. He found it, however, 1/2-3/4 mile east of the big gnech in the cliff just above (20-25') the level of the bay. Pleasant and interesting walk, disagreeable topics being avoided - Footling rather soft & the 7 mi. walk was enough.
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Trickling of snow water down the gulls, 134 in the face of the bluffs makes pleasant music. Saw only two gulls, one raven and several snow-bunting. Chief first patch on front of store today. 9 May. Tuesday. Clear, cloudless. Calm or nearly so - Low, light fog in outer bay early. Went out around 9a. Temp. min 18½°; 9a. 29°; 12m. 35°; 4h. 37°; 8h. +27° Early this morning Ootah, alpselungun Kartmah (name ok?), with their wives and chil- dren and Peter's deaf and dumb ward, 14 Es- Kirinos in all, arrived from Umanak on their way to Itkaput, Cape York and Cape Seddon. I make out that they are going to stay here for some days and then distribute themselves down the line. Ootah says that he and his fam- ily are going to Cape Seddon for the summer, returning northward when the sun is down; this seems to me an odd arrangement of time, yet he says he has plenty meat at one place. The deaf mute is going to his sister at Cape Seddon. The Es-kirinos came on six kamatikles and have pitched two tupics on the beach near Pudtlac's igloo. They brought a kayak and a set-up kayak frame with them. These look like awkward loads for kamatiks. Two of the men went out hunting seals but saw none. Ootah's wife mended up my kamatik. Went out after dinner for 2 hr. walk, going to the lateral moraine on north side of the big (Cluett) glacier. Leaf buds on the willows are swelling; grass is putting out new leaves, green leaves really begin to show under the dead brown leaves. Spring is coming rapidly now, apparently. Let it come as fast as it will! The streams from the ice front of the Cluett glacier is so strong now that its gur- ling is audible a half mile or more away.
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10 May. Wednesday. 1/35 Clear and cloudless. Moderate to fresh eastly or south easterly breeze from early morning to about 5:30 p.m. Temp. min 19°; 9a. 35°; 12m. 35°; 3:30p. 37° 6:30p. 34°. Max. 37° Crew began removing coal from the hold and got nearly half of it out and piled on the ice alongside, when the captain stopped the work, because the vessel was not rising in response to the lightening of her load. Clouds of auklets flew along the cliffs between 1 & 4:30 this morning and then disappeared. Ben got three and the Eskimos ten of the birds. H.C.P. secured them and we are to have them for dinner tomorrow. The birds were caught with nets like long handled dip nets. They fly too high now for much success with nets. Out alone for walk along shore this morning and after dinner for five mile walk around head of bay to snow-drift glacier and directly back. Chief told me day before yesterday that fly wheel was loose on crank shaft and thrown out of position before "Cluett" reached Boston from New York. This could be established by testimony of engineer from Wolverine Co. who was on the vessel. Ootah says that Pudlatak and family are occupying his igloo at Kiateg and that not Preflataki's baby has arrived there. Pudlatak's igloo here is a desolate looking place now with the floor and platforms covered with ears, de-bris snow and frost - a forlorn place for human habitation. "Scouse" for breakfast. Have stew for dinner. Changed plates and got graflex camera into shape for fresh use in evening.
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11 May. Thursday, (36) Clear but overcast a.m. Light clouds and cloudless afternoon. Water fog thick well out at sea - moc 32° Temp min 25°; 9a 29°; 12m, 29°; 4p, 30°; 7h, 30° At 8:50 this morning while I was getting ready for breakfast, I felt the vessel give a sudden jerk. She had freed herself from the ice adhering to her port side and came out on even keel. Her port side rose about a foot and the chief's snow bridge is now something of a jump down from the rail. Crew piled on shore the coal which they removed from the hold yesterday - with chief's aid overhauled Ernemann Motion picture camera, cleaned its gear and got it into running order. Captain Conois snow igloo has disappeared. Walked out alone for about an hour before dinner along north shore side of bay. Scouse for breakfast. Stew of antelopes and canned roast beef for dinner, also stewed dried peaches. The birds were good but there was only one apiece - except that H.C.P. served me two. It would take from four to six to make a good meal for a man. Last evening Ootah and company struck their tupics and started over the ice cap toward Cape York. At 1 this morning they were just about to disappear over the crest. H.C.P. bought a shaggy puppy 4 or 5 months old from one of the men and it makes night hideous with its howling. Not very friendly yet except with Ben. The huskies conspired Pudt-lats igloo for anything of value to themselves. There were no antelopes on the cliffs this morning, hence H.C.P. had to postpone his intended try at getting some. Sea fog came into bay about 8 p.m., producing curious illusionary distance as one looked across bay toward invisible south shore.
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12 May. Friday. (137) Overcast and thick. Light snow falling and calm at 9 o'clock. Somewhat clearer at 10 and after, snow ceased, disagreeable light breeze came up from the south. Chilly rather strong before noon. Clear in the afternoon. Cloud amount not high at sea. Temp. min. 19°; 9a. 32°; 12m. 28°; 4h. 28° During my talk with Captain Pickels on 4 May (see §. 128), he said that stopping at Upernivik Cost us Melville Bay. This was the first time that this idea had been advanced in my hearing. I doubt the justification for the statement. We certainly had a good strong breeze during the afternoon of the day on which we arrived at 7h. m. at Upernivik anchorage and it was too rough for us to go ashore that evening; but the wind died out during the night and the following day (11 Aug.) was calm; so calm that H.C.O. would not leave, said then that it was not advisable to get under weigh. Of course we should have covered a good many miles with the breeze of 10 Aug. but probably should not have gotten more than half way from Upernivik to Devil's Throat before losing the wind. As I have said the 11th was calm. On 12th we had light N. wind; 13th same; 14th calm; 15th brisk wind from N.N.W. In early morning of 16 Aug. we were off Devil's Throat. Results so one can say how much if any appreciable time we lost by stopping at Upernivik, but neither Captain Pickels nor Captain Cover said a word against stopping there. It seems to me that they should have pointed out to me the risk of stopping, if they or either of them had felt that there was any. With my present experience in the arctic and knowledge of the "Chatta", I would not stop there in an auxiliary schooner under similar conditions. The stop was made with the advice and approval of Dean and other men of experience in order to learn about the ice conditions in Melville Bay - But we learned nothing.
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of our passage. H.C.P. said that he [140] would not need the cornmeal, might not need the molasses, and might need the flour, though he would take nothing not absolutely necessary, because the vessel will be going toward food, while Mr. Ekblaw will be staying where the war may prevent any supplies from coming this year and he may be facing another winter in the arctic. H.C.P. said that it would be ad- viseable for Dr. Hunt and Captain Corvis to be at the vessel on or before 25 June, on account of the early season. Agreed to [illegible] by us. Everything amicably arranged, apparently. Ek and I walked out to Norman's Gulch (the "big gulch", formerly "soapstone valley") in the bay and back over the plateau. 5 mi. He showed me many of the different species of plants growing here. He has noted 42 to-day. The big white gull which has arrived is the burgomaster or glaucous gull. Saw an arctic wheatear. We climbed down some steep rock faces in descending from the plateau. Great stretches and areas of open water visible, particularly to S.W. Very enjoyable walk. Report is that two more of MacMillan's men have returned to Etah and that they say that he was going only two marches beyond where they left him. Probably, therefore, he too is now at Etah. Dog-food being lacking, Ek, Eqing- uak and Were started back to Una- nak at about 8:30 this evening. They took the victrola records with them. Ek came prepared to take me too if I insisted on going but I decided that it was wise to take the ad- vise of Ek, Hunt and Peter and stay at the ship. Conditions at Unamnak are not good and the early season makes travel good and uncertain.
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This morning Et brought in the first [illegible] willows that we have seen here. They look as if they had been out for a day or two. Saw more in Norman's Valley Gulch. On the west side of this gulch, 300 yds or so from the bay Et pointed out a shelter wh. Instinct must have used in setting snickets. Circular wall of stones built up high enough to give concealment to the hunter. There are several of the old Eskimo stone fox traps on the plateau. These are spaces enclosed and roofed over with flat stones, when in use they are provided with a flat slab which slides or falls in a manner to close the entrance when the fox springs the trap. On the sides of the gulleys noted many char acteristic flows of earth, sand, gravel and stones presenting some of the features of glaciers. These are important factors in soil flourage Beans for breakfast. Canned beef for dinner with rice for dessert. Et says that the single eggs found on the plateau were cast by the foxes; we saw several today. 15 May. Monday. Clear, C 1, calm. Apparently a light N. wind outside. Temp. min. 26°; 9a.35°; 12m.34°; 9p.27° Crew finished putting coal on shore and I gave them the promised tobacco for doing it. Made letters to Ekblaw and Mac Millan giving authorizations, instructions and requests, & effective in case of my going homeward on the "Clvette" On board all day. 16 May. Tuesday. Overcast + cloudy all day. Heavy fog out on the sea and fogbanks resting on the cliff tops and mountains. Calm or very light westerly winds. Temp. min. 27°; 9a.33°; 12m.36°; 7p.36°; 10p.27° Early this morning - 1 o.cl after, there arrived from Cape York Evie, Bablina + baby, the old
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Ateengana widow and her two sons, Pingasut and Ala. 142 cotiah; and from Unumarak en route to Cape Melville Ooguish and his wife and two small children. Ooguish was one of the North Pole party so that most of have seen him all. He told me, in effect, that there were "four Eskimos Innuits and two Kablunas at the Pole." He counts Matt Henson as a Kabluna or white man. I took two photos of Ooguish and his family standing beside Erik's tupik. Walked alone over to the front of the big or Clust glacier and took four Graflex photos of it. The flat ground is getting very boggy but not un- pleasant yet to walk upon. The turf feels good to Karricked feet after walking over stones. Got the old woman to sew bearskin chin + 2 wrist-pieces on my Natska. Also bought pair of white sealskin mittens from her. Gave her 14bb flgs smoking tobacco and a pack of needles. Bought from the chief for a pound of tobacco the knife that he made last winter and sent it over to EK. About 6 P.M. Pingasut and Ala-cotiah started for Unumarak taking Nate Davis with them. He is go- ing to repair Pete's motor boat for him. Crew just ashore lumber wh. H.C.P. sold to Peter. Cleaned up hold and secured old old and spare sails from nets, brought up fore, stay sails and top sails. During the night the rest of the Eskimos depart- ed, except the old widow Ateengana and her two sons who slept in the open on the beach, wrapped in their furs. Dft. curry canned beef and rice. 17 May. Wednesday. Clear, Cloudless, light air from S.W. Temp. min. 20 1/2o; 9a. 34o; 12m. 33o Shukstupa (name-ak-?) from Sapookahave 7h. 30o arrived from Unumarak about 1 o clock last night en route to Cape Melville. He is the most promi- inent of all the natives that we have seen. H.C.P. got from him a bow-drill made from a walrus(?) rib. in exchange for a spoke shave. Auiklets were on the cliffs in myriads this morning and made a great noise with their cries and the whirring of their wings. This whirring is surprisingly loud and shuddersome.
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that from a passing flock sounds much [143] like the surf beating on the shore - thrown here and there by the song of the wind through pines trees. H. P. was out with some of the crew (Ben, at least) at 2 a.m. and stuck ashore on the cliff netting anklets. They got $44. Ben caught me yesterday in his hand. Crew bent on fore staysail and topsails today. Went over to beach where I found Ateng- anu seated among her sleeping furs just finishing a pair of kamites for Charley - had her sew up some rips in my kamites while I walked along the beach south - ward. I think that its stream is running through the break in the beach 50 yds. south of the coal cache because the snow bridge sounds hollow. This is the northern of the three streams emptifying into the bay and brings down the drain- age from the route to Umanak. Went on to the middle break in the beach through which the discharge from the big ("Cluett") glacier passes. The stream is now flowing through the break and forms open water for 50-75 yards beyond the beach rest. The lake behind the beach shows considerable open water, which I saw yesterday. burgwater. Several gulls were along the open water and were quite tame. Ooquial crossed the pond in his kainatic last night, but he must have gotten wet doing it. Took two photos (9x17, 11x12) of Atenganu at work. For several days we have heard distinctly the dull roar of the surf beating against the outer edge of the bay ice and crunching the cakes together. The line of black open- water stretching clear across the bay is in plain sight from the deck of the "Cluett", but three miles of five foot ice intervenes and keeps the vessel imprisoned. Ootah says that the ice will break up on the June high tides. They will come 26-28 June, and we hope that- he is a good prophet.
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Alakatsiak (Alacotah) took skins away from roof of Prutlaks igloo yesterday, leaving the place open to dry out this summer. Shukashuna started for Cape York via the ice cap about 2 p.m. 18 May. Thursday. Overcast or very cloudy all day. Air rather raw and chilly. Wind W. & N.W. 2-4, puffy. Temp. min 2.2°; 9 a. 30°; 12 m. 34°; 4h. 38°; 6:30 p. 2.8°. Many auklets have remained on the cliffs all day, evidently with the purpose of nesting here, but most of the clouds of birds that arrived early this morning went on elsewhere before noon. I was ashore before breakfast and concealed myself in a nook among the large blocks at the foot of the talus slope near the big coal cache. The flight of the birds is interesting and somewhat exciting, rather scary when they fly within three feet of one's head as some of these did this morning. Their speed is very high and the birds pay little attention to a man, even when he stands in the open, but they seem able to see and dodge a net when it is raised too soon. Taylor knocked down several birds with stones today. Developed roll no. 46. Wrote letters. Out after dinner for an hours walk. Unpleasant and threatening, with snow pellets coming in squalls. Bft., fried auklets. Dinner, auklet stew. The birds are excellent, tender and not at all fishy. 19 May. Friday. Overcast and thick. Light winds from west. Began to snow about 2 p.m. and snowed thickly from 3 to 5 o'el. A wet snow melting as it fell on the vessel. Water drifted into cabin between dried deck planks. Quina shore boat. Sun broke through clouds about 6:30 p. little while.
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Temp. min. 24°; 9a. 29°; 12m. 29°; 4p. 28° Sun broke through clouds about 6:30 p. Crew brought 9 bbl. kerosene on board from the old shore cache and stowed them in the forward hold. H.C.P. string line of ashes out fifty yards or more (75?) toward shore - and he and Taylor gathered up coal that fell from traps as they were piled on the ice and bagged it - 3 bags full. Put ashore with rest of Peter's stock at new cache. All the little auks disappeared from the cliffs last night and none came to-day. Charlie mopped up the cabin floor this morning. Asked him whether he did not know that this was Friday. "Oh, yes" he replied, "but there might be a [illegible] putty able to him tomorrow morning!" He showed more fore thought than I thought he possessed. On board nearly all day. Cleaned up my room, aired my sleeping bag, did some St. Vincent work. Took an hour's walk in the snow-storm in the afternoon on the hard ice along shore east and west of the vessel. was The falling snow -> soft and wet, melting as it fell on the vessel. We had quite a shower bath in the cabin from the water dripping through the cracks in the dried-up deck. Breakfast - curry of canned beef and rice. Dinner - baked auclots. Best dish that we have had in many a day. The birds were tender and delicious, reminding one of squab in size and flavor. 20 May. Saturday. Thickly overcast till late afternoon Began to clear about 5 p.m. with northeby wind. Westerly or southwesterly before it. Temp. min. 25°; 9a 30°; 12m. 29°; 4p. 30°; 8h. 29° - calm Unpleasant day but countless little auks flew and lighted along the cliffs. Ben got 65 to-day. He is by far most successful. Taylor next walked along Trail on north shore from 1:30 to 3:30 ± watching birds. Visited Puddle's igloo and collected small soapstone lamps.
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Place looks desolate enough now and 146 one could hardly think that it had ever been or could be made a comfortable habitation for human beings. Much snow, ice and debris in there and seal-skin lining hangs in torn folds. Undescribable filth pollutes ground for ten yards around the igloo. Wrecked harmonium on bed platform. The welcome black zone of open water outside the bay seems to be working its way gradually inwards. Would do much execution to the bay ice, if they could only have a strong westerly gale of wind. Rft. - Curry of beef and rice. Dinner-baked oysters. After dinner the Captain and Taylor were out as far as they considered safe toward the open water. They came back reporting that (H.C.P.) the April ice all gone out and the old ice breaking up into pans and cracking for a half-mile back from the edge - they could feel the ice moving under them with the swell and could see the outer cakes grinding together under the influence of the moderate to strong northwest breeze - Prospect good for nutch-ice going out with next week's high tides. They saw a good many eider ducks and some seapigeons Taylor got one of the latter with a lucky rifle shot, decapitating it. Used last of biscuits (hard bread) for dinner in evening. 21 May. Sunday. Overcast. Westerly (N.W.?) wind 2. Temp.niin 23°; 9a.33°; 12m.31°; 4p.32°; 7:15f. 31° Little alkks absent this morning. The last fragments of biscuit (hard bread) disappeared to-day. Tarangi Clear shore again last night. Mous- tacho was altogether too white! Out for a short walk before dinner - Cleared off after dinner and nights was magnific from 6 p.m. Sun disappeared behind high cliffs at 7:10 p., mean time. Nonnan and some of the crew went out to top of the Big Bird Cliff behind The grotch. Reported open water and feet fars as far as the eye could see. Rft. Curry,
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went eastward and circled the head of the bay in land returning across bay ice - a hard 5-6 mile walk on account of the rocks. Saw first flowers of the season - white scurvy grass and humble heather. Little water running from Cluet Glacier. None seems to have come yet from the divided glacier. Crew brought lifeboat from beach and left it on ice alongside the vessel. Murre (Albat) stew for dinner. Very good. Taste somewhat like that of duck. Rest of menu - bread, tea with molasses and milk, dried peaches. Crew got 16 auklets today, of wh. Ben netted 10 5, Charley got 5 with a club + H.C.P. 3. Ben and Taylor got 12 murres at the big cliff in the evening. The boys report many cracks in bay ice from about 1/2 miles beyond vessel outward. 25 May Thursday. Cloudless before 9 a.m. but low fog was coming in and by 10 o'clock we were covered with the cloud about 600 feet above us. Light westerly air and variable. Fog lifted considerably about mid afternoon. Temp. min. 22°; 9a.31°; 12m.32°; 4p.35°.F.27° Chief took photos of me in very furs. St. Vincent work. Crew used gasoline blow-torch for singeing their birds. Great improvement over Charley's red hot poker, doing 170, including murres, in about a half hour. After dinner H.C.P. and Charley went out ready to the edge of the ice and returned confirming report that the ice beyond the large berg 1 1/2 mi. out is cracked in every direction ready to form floes and pans. Auklets are apparently getting ready to nest for they do not fly about so much. Out for about a half-hours walk just before dinner.
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26 May- Friday, 1/50 Would be cloudless, were it not for this masses of fog, hovering around and level with the tops of the cliffs and mountains. But the fog thickened much soon after noon Wind N and light, say 1 to 2. Temp. with 38° Temp. min . 25°; 9a. 30°; 12m. 35°; 4h. 35°; 8p. 26° Crew new sheets and tackles onto the big sails. Walked out to the large berg in the middle of the bay about 1½ mi. from vessel, found the exercise rather fatiguing - crossed two long cracks transverse to the bay about a mile out, but could not see the nu- mberous cracks beyond the berg reported by the captain and others. There are some trouble big bergs outside the bay which are drifting Southeastward along the coast. Charley's 15th birthday. St. Vincent work. David Copperfield Bfr: commut mush + molasses - fried anchov dinner: alcap stew, bread, frites. 27 May. Saturday. Clear and cloudless at 9a., with wind N. 1 - 2. Thin clouds and some fog around noon, but by 2p. turned clear, cloudless, calm. Heavy westerly (?) wind squall raged from about 4 to 5 this morning raising swell which affected the vessel. Temp. min . 20°; 9a. 30°; 12m. 36°; 5p. 37°; 10p. 30° Spent about four hours of this beautiful day on shore near the new cache, watching the little auks as they flew about, perched on the rocks or made love to one another. Took two reels of motion pictures with aid of the chief, who carried the camera a- shore and back again and threw stones at the birds when I wanted them started up. In company with Fiander tried my hand at netting birds and caught two thus - after dinner I caught a disabled one on the ice foot at the cache, in my hands
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Captain Pickels and Taylor went out to Nor - 1/51 Manis Guleh and beyond . Lots of rumours and guills about the big Bird Cliff. Saw many cracks in the ice, which is getting into bad condition. Lead two or three feet wide comes in midday of the big bluffs and looks hopeful for speedy departure of the ice beyond it. 28 May. Sunday. New moon. Overcast, thick outside. Wind S.E.(N.E.) 6-7 Died out latter part of afternoon (H.L.P. says it was N.W.) and blew E.N.E. Temp. min. 250; 9a. 28°; 12m. 29°; 4p. 28° Day is chilly, blustering and disagreeable, but we trust that the high wind which began to blow off the ice cap early this morning will drive away some ice. Let her blow, as hard as she will, we all say. The bad. er the better for us. No auklets on cliffs to-day For Bft: Communal mush, fried bacon, baked auklets. Dinners: pea soup, baked auklets, boiled salt pork, fricatur, turnips, dried peaches. 29 May. Monday. Overcast a.m. with granular snow falling from about 10 o'clock for an hour or more Wind S.3. Cleared off soon after noon and became cloudless, except for low- lying wat'fog in distant west. Wind of 5-6 came out of the north. Keen and gusty. Temp. min. 25½°; 9a. 30°; 12m. 30°; 4p. 28°. 9:30p. 29° Clouds of auklets on cliffs today and crew netted about 150 of the birds. On board all day except for short walk just before dinner. Wind too strong and disagreeable for comfortable walking. St. Vincent work. David Copperfield. Bft: oatmeal, little apts. Dinners: macaroni soup, salt beef + pork, potatoes, turnips,
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30 May. Tuesday. 1/52 Cloudless morning, though somewhat hazy. Wind S.E. 2-3. Gradually grew thicker and by 6 p.m. heavy S.E. gale (8-9) was raging and the air was full of flying fresh snow. Worst storm that we have had for some time. Temp. min. 28°; 9a. 39°; 12m. 39°; 6p. 39°; 9:30-35° Mate arrived with Mere about 3 a.m., having made the trip from Unanak in 8 hours. All well as Unanak. Plenty of seals there, & going we made the trip across a fortnight ago in 6 hours. Mate brought letters from Ekblaw and Peter which kept me busy for some hours and then the wind was so strong that I did not go out and now - 6:30 p.m.- the scene outside is so wild that we are glad enough of the shelter afforded by the ship's cabin. Mere says that Silkisuna, who was here on 17 May, returned to Unanak over the ice cap without coming down here. He brought back some effects from his old igloo east of Cape York, near Cape Melville. The Eskimo name for Cape York is Ippaqanqornni. (Nominative Iqqagarnak?) Snow ceased ca 8 o'clock, but gale continued raging Mere went out and got 40 little ants. 31 May. Wednesday. Av. Temp. {min 21.5° {room 34°1 Overcast + thick. Wind S.E. 4-5°. Latter part afternoon full gale raged at times. Rained hard last night and again from 5-7 p.m. Temp. min. 33°; 9a. 37°; 12m. 36½°; 4p. 37°; 8p. 35° Mere started for Unanak ca. 11 o'clock but came back ca 2 p.m., having found the ice cap dangerous from thick atmosphere, heavy wind and driving snow. His poor dog have had nothing to eat for three days. Went out for walk soon after 3 p.m. but snow was so wet and there was so much water in pools on the bad ice that I came back on board after 15-20 min. The house is still so dry that the cabin ceiling leaks a good bit. Mate put tin and canvas patch over the stove in planks amidships on port side.
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Vessel shook and knocked against the ice considerably last night, but could only go forward about 6" , despite all its heavy wind. To-day a line was run out from her port bow and made fast to the ice and fenders were lowered on the port side. - Mene fed his dogs this evening on the little ants which he netted yesterday. 1 June. Thursday. Strong gale continued through night and was accompanied by heavy rain. Wind moderated and rain changed to snow- ca 4 a.m. At 9a. overcast and thick with wet snow falling thickly, wind S.W. 3. Storm cleared, tho not clear, by noon. Clear by 3 p.m. Temp. Min. 31°; 9a. 31°; 12m. 32°; 4p. 31½°; 8p. 27½° Temp water at 1 p.m. 34° Little ants returned to our cliffs this morning. Some St. Vincent work this afternoon, hindered by H.C.P.'s reminiscences of Bermuda +c. Out for 2 mi. walk before dinner. Not much good surface now to traverse on the bay. Slushy snow makes hard going. After dinner Norman and chief went out to the new crack about 1/4mi, from ship and meas- ured thickness of ice with a wire. "Strong 4 feet". Mene got away again for Unaruk about 6 p.m., taking my compass with him to guard against contingency of fog on the ice cap, tho' there is none there now. He got 19 ants to-day. Ralph cut Mene's hair yesterday and he looks less like an Eskimo than before - more American. The edge of the ice foot is getting honeycombed. 2 June Friday. Clear and C2 with wind S.W. 2 at 9a, later the wind was easterly and variably stronger. Temp. Min. 24½°; 9a. 30°; 12m. 27°; 4p. 31°; 8p. 27° End of melting ice to get water, for crew began filling tanks with water from the brook, digging through surface snow to get it.
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Crew washed down deck this morning. Finished St. Vincent work for the 17th present and began the preparation of an account of the Arctic Voyage of the George III. Cluett"" for publication. Out for 3 1/2 hrs. on ice and shore before dinner. Walking on the bay is tedious work now, the bare ice being too smooth and slippery for easy progress in tamaris, then being comparatively little hard snow and the soft snow being slushy and disagreeable. The little auks allow one to come very close - within 5 yds or less, sometimes - before they rise in great whirling clouds which almost darken the air as they pass close to his head on their way out circling around the head of the bay. The burgomaster gulls cause great commotion among the little auks, when they come near because they feed upon the little birds. The little auks have several active enemies: the gulls; the foxes, which eat birds and young and eat their eggs, besides caching eggs for the winter; and mankind both eskimos and white, who get both birds and eggs. But there still are millions of the auks, though but one egg is laid to a clutch. The crew, two of them, kicked and Charley singled 178 little auks to-day for our mess. It takes 3 apiece to go around (56 birds) and some of us would eat more if we got them. The captain had eaten more than one. Mrake & Norman got the extra ones left by him this afternoon - Salt horse and sweet pork for dinner. 3 June. Saturday. Overcast (C 4) Wind S.W. 1-2. Temp. min. 26°; 9a. 34°; 12m. 35½°; 4h. 34°; 8h. 31°. H.E.P. took observation at noon using artificial horizon. Out for 1 1/2 hrs. before dinner on cliffs, climbing up from new coal cache and coming down through big greech east of the isloo. Edge of bay ice seems to have come in somewhat since my last ascent and now is about 1/4 mi. outside large berg, extending from point midway of mid cliff across bay to core inside of islet. Collected willow tree about four feet long to take home to Britton. auklets for offr. & auklebaw & furrines for dinner.
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H.C.P. went out to Norman's Gullet and re- Turned saying that ice was more solid than it was three weeks ago, this edge is undergoing the extreme were buried. Says it a mile outside the large key. Won't go over before last of July, at this rate! But the grass shows an encouraging green over burned areas. 4 June. Sunday. Overcast and rather thick. Light fine snow falling. Wind S.W. 1-2 Temp. Min. 29°; 9a. 32½°; 12m. 30°; 4p. 32°; 8p. 29° Bft: cornmeal mush; fried bacon, acourse, bread, molasses poor coffee. Dinner: little meat. Day is chilly and uncomfortable, with the breeze from the southwest (or W.) rather raw. 5 June. Monday. Temp. Min 27½°; 9a. 36°; 12m. 37°; 4p. 36°; 8p. 34° C4. Calm and clear. Lg.W. variable wind N.N. Rolled up sleeping bag and hung it from ceiling. Have used it reasonably for five months, but is too warm now. Photod H.C.P. in his full fur costume - Kathleth (Alingwoodbobs) and bear skin pants (Pete) Worked on Cluett voyage an hour or two and then developed plates. H.C.P. agreed to put my bags of salt on shore and cover them with boards gratis. Out 6-8p. for stroll in bay and shore. Ice a- lng edge of ice foot increasing rotten. Seed came up through crack near where the crew was landing, abreast of the vessel. Ben and Taylor got 15 sea pigeons near the big bluff. 6 June. Tuesday Overcast and rather thick. Wind at 9a. S.E. 3-4, veering by 10:30 to N.W. (N?) 3-4, but light by 3 p.m. and calm after 5 o'clock. Temp. Min. 30°; 9a. 38°; 10:30 a. 33° (with change of wind); 12m. 34°; 4p. 36°; 8p. 32° Did some work on "Cluett Voyage"
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Found blankets rather cold and 1/56 heavy last night, after the sleeping bag, eh. is so light with all its warmth. Out for an hour on shore east of the igloo. Inspected a tupic site well back on upper beach which had evidently been used for a whole season's residence years ago when caribou still were gotten here. Big rock fragments, which had rolled down from the cliff were taken ad- avantage of to form a wall, small stones and turf being used to stop up the openings. Perhaps the site is not so old after all, for the caribou horns used in making the food cache (?) were shed horns that we picked up and utilized on account of their convenient size and shape. Crude residences, these Estivino igloos and Tupics. Photographed (19,1-8/35) the crew hoisting a barrel of water from the brook on to the ship. Several (9) seals were seen on the ice in the southern part of the bay. After dinner Ben and Taylor went out to try to get one. They found that the seals had come up through two (or more) holes which they had been graveled (Fide H.C.P.) through the ice 7/3 of the way across from here. Captain feet in one of the holes and said it was rather thin and that the sides proved the graving. Ben shot a burgomaster gull, a handsome bird. 7 June. Wednesday. Began to snow about midnight and has snowed heavily all day. N.E. gale (8) blowing this morning, but wind lessened in strength after noon. Strong S.W. outside at 4 p.m. Temp. min. 17o; 9a.27o; 12m.32o; 4p.29o 8p.29o Wind seemed to be westerly outside, sighing from sound of surf breaking along the edge of the bay ice. A windy stormy day. Apparently the little outlets
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feel the coming of the storm, for they [15] were very wild yesterday afternoon and in the morning they all deserted the cliffs and went out to sea. There is daily and several times daily, complaint on the part of the mate, Norman and the chief regarding the scanty amount of food provided. The mate is the worst kicker. Now and to-day he gave Charlie fits for eating up the birds left this morning from the number provided for us five, instead of going forward to get his own and leaving those for a snack here. Rather rough on Charlie and Norman defended him. Seven little [illegible] ants were brought aft for our breakfast and Charlie reserved two found for himself. Captain ate none, I three, mate four, chief Two (2) and Norman two, leaving three on the platter. Captain told Charlie that he might have his (H.C.P.'s) share, so the boy cleared the platter, but saved one of his birds forward for Norman. The mate had had more than his share anyhow, hence there was no kick coming from him except as to the total number of birds cooked. It seems easy to start trouble on board a ship in the arctic, but things are more pleasant now than before the sun came best. At 4 p.m. the wind at the ship was strong (6±) from the S.W. and it must be pretty heavy outside. Several (6±) inches soft wet snow now on deck & still growing hard Thursday, 8 June. Thickly overcast at 9 a.m. but snow has ceased falling. Total 10-12 inches and H.C.P. considers this the heaviest snowfall of the year. Wind S. or S.E. 2-3 or more. Strong S.E. outside & snow or spray flying. Temp. min 25°; 9a. 32°; 12m. 33°; 4p. 31°; 8p. 29° Another day on board - Tedious enough. Got in some good time on "Chett Voyage".
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11 June. Sunday. Thickly overcast and calm at 9a. Dull day till late afternoon. Mist N.W. breeze began to blow about 4p. and sky cleared of clouds by 7½. Temp, min. 25°; 9a.36°; 10a.40°; 12m.34°; 4h.31°; 8h.29°. At 11 this morning the temp. had dropped back to 36° The warm wave was sudden and short-lived. Started out at noon for walk. Had a little jumping over cracks to do to get ashore at point when lumber is piled. Climbed cliff and walked a long brink to prominent point halfway to Nor-Man's Gulch. Saw some yellow poppies and a new little white flower in addition to the flowers of the scurry grass and willow which have already been noted. Edge of open water seems to be about ¼ mile outside the large bay berg, or 1¾ mi. from the vessel. The bay ice looks discouragingly solid and immovable, except for the pools of water now stretching almost continuously along the ice foot of the north shore of its bay. Outside, there is far more than ice than open water in sight. Waded through lots of soft snow to the top of the hill and observed the same or worse ice conditions extending to the Northwest. Got back to vessel at 4 o'clock after a rather fatiguing walk, but it was far better than the preceding four days confinement on board. 12 June. Monday. Clear and cloudless at 9 a.m. with wind strong (6) from N. or N.E. Clouded over this middle of day but clearer again in latter part of afternoon. Much strong wind at times and vessel rocking a little. But oh how cold it holds! Temp. min 24°; 9a.30°; 12m.31°; 4h.33°; 8h.31° Onboard all day, on account of blistered heel result-ing from yesterday's tramp in rubber moccasins with canvas inside them. Worked on Cluett article and read in "Near Expectations".
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14 June. Wednesday. 1/61 calm Clear and almost cloudless morn- ing. Some high cirrus clouds in afternoon lovelying water fog in the distant west. Temp. min.23°; 9d. 33°; 12m. 32°; 4h.28°; 8p.26° Out on shore for 1½ hr photographing birds on cliffs and talus &c. Developed a dozen plates in the afternoon. Heavy wind from E.S.E. (fide H.C.P.) sprang up at noon. Blew fiercely till latter part of afternoon and then died down. Mate broke up our three-handed pinochle game this evening by his fault finding. He led the game all night but was sorely because I told Norman to lead his queen of hearts to me when it made not a particle of difference to the mate, since he had no hearts or trumps and I had the highest heart and because neither Nor- man nor I would outbid him at the end when he (Mate) was 990 that we threw down our hands. The mate broke up the poker games last winter in a similar babyish fashion, and once before in pinochle geth- ered up the cards and refused to let the game go on because he was getting wretched hands. Well - it is a relief to me to have the card play- ing stop. I was getting awfully tired of it any- how. He is a fine man, honest and straight- forward and I really like him better than any other member of the crew, but he has an awful temper and hates to lose games or even tricks worse than any other man I ever played with I think. Many is the time that I have lost to him just to keep him good natured. Captain says - "No more cards in the cabin" 15 June. Thursday. Clear and almost cloudless till 9 o'clock, but soon clouded over and
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several snow squalls came during/62 rest of day. Wind S.E. or E.S.E. and heavy (5 to 7 or 8) all day. Temp. min. 24°; 9a. 32°; 12m. 32°; 4p. 32°; 8p. 31°. Extremely disagreeable, with lots of driving snow in the air at times. We hope that the gale, combined with the spring tides to- day, may have done some damage to our bay ice. But we want warmer weather! On board all day. Got in some work on the "Clivett" article. Captain Pickels raffled off his watch (Waltham, 17 jewel, gold-filled case) a- among the crew on 64 tickets ranging from 1¢ to 64¢ total $20.80. H.C.P. himself drew out the numbers and Taylor won the ticker. There was some grumbling of course among the unsuccessful ones, because the captain took so long to find the last number in the can, but I could not see anything crooked in the case. Every number was drawn. I went down to the forepeak to see the drawing, although I had no interest whatever in the result. Little ants for bth and dinner. Dried peaches for dessert at dinner. Wind less violent at 8 o'cl. than before. 16 June. Friday. Clear & cloudless all day, but overcast in evening (8p.) Heavy easterly wind 3-4 a., dying down by 6a. Calm at 9a and that or nearly so all day. Temp. min. 28°; 9a. 35°; 12m. 40°; 4p. 38°; 8p. 35° Had chief take photos of me in furs again, The preceding set being somewhat out of focus. Noon to 3p. on cliffs, going up by queer east of igloo. Lovely day and beautiful outlook from top of cliff. Blue sea and lots of open water, but does it get any nearer? mate got 133 little ants, and Norman 40 with his new net + total for crew is more than $00 Raw 196 Sawer 140
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Temp. min .30°; 9a.40°; 11.36°; 8h.39° (1/64) Yesterday wind removed snow from ice where the cover was thin and made the walking good there. Elsewhere on bay the snow is thick and soft and footing very bad. Some more pans of ice seem to have gone from the edge of the ice, but the process is slow. Encouraging melting going on along line of water coming up through cracks along ice foot of northern shore, where melting is helped by brooks from the gletches. Was out for an hour along shore and on shoulder cliff above lumber point. Potash already getting abundant. Norman and Taylor went seal hunting along the south shore, but the animals were too quick for them though each ventured a shot. They went out to the edge of the ice and then along the dangerous ice foot to where the "Cruise Tidikssua" is cached. They report new cracks and encouraging looks of the ice. Abundance of birds on the water. Ben went out to Norman's quick and big bluff and got several sea pigeons but could not go to where the murres are. Put in four hours on "Cluett Voyage" 20 June. Tuesday. Overcast and foggy. Calm in morning but strong easterly wind sprang up in late afternoon. Looked bad on ice cap. Snow. Temp. min .31°; 9a.35°; 12 m.34°; 1h.34°; 8h.34° Mere, Egingual, Alriguodoblelo and Inuse's son Elingwa (?) came in about 10 a.m. from Umanak, Egingual bringing letters from Elk and Peter and from Rasmussen, who arrived at North Star Bay on the 17th, bringing mail from New York which he sent down to me. Most welcome - but the news that my be- loved mother passed away on 16 December daddens me. 35 letters + one telegram!
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21 June. Wednesday. 1/65 Drano. Overcast + foggy at 9a., with wind S.W. 3-4. Very soon cleared and wind shifted to N.W. and lessened in force. A beautiful day. Strong No. 2:15 on- Temp. min. 31 1/2; 9a. 32 o; 12m. 40 o; 4p. 41 o; 8h. 37 1/2 Too windy and snowy for Eskimos to leave last night, as they intended to do, but Ahirquodlako and the boy got away for Cape York about 11 a.m., and Egingwah and Mere left about noon, Mere walking on ahead for a while. I rode out with Egingwah until we overtook Mere about a mile from the schooner, when I left them and walked over to the high hills bordering the Chet- tt Glacier on the north along its lower course. Found a ledge of quartzite there dipping 15-70 o N. and overlying the gneisses. Returned through the meval and along the edge of the glacier, late in the morning. Went out in my Iceland sweat- er without Netoka or mittens, since I did not expect to make the excursion. Was per- fectly comfortable until after 2 o'clock, when the wind, which had been light from S.W + N.W., suddenly shifted to N.E. and was very keen. Walking and sledging on the trail up to the ice cap was difficult and fatiguing on account of the softness of the snow. Wanted to go to North Star Bay but decided not to on account of the laborious walk- ing and Dr. Hunts positive advice, sent down again by EK, not to undertake the trip as it was too strenuous on account of my physical condition. Sent my camera outfit to EK by Egingwah as follows: Graflex complete with my Zeiss lens, graphic box, telephoto attachment, wide angle lens (1/2m), tripod, changing bag, 20 dozen plates, some developing material. The wind which began to blow about 2 p.m. from N.E. soon became strong and by 4 o'clock was high and gusty. Had I did not under- take the ice cap, though it may not be blowing so hard up there. Read my letters all through again and enjoyed them; all the news being good except that about mother and Elizabeth. The latter died in Norway of consumption about the middle of February.
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22 June. Thursday, 1/66 Clear and cloudless with light air (51) at 9a the heavy northeaster died out about 7a but came back again with force about 10a and blew with great force at intervals till mid afternoon. Then died out again. Clear and cloudless all day. Temp min 30°; 9a 41½°; 12m 40°; 4p 40° Crew slushed down the roots. Made line from port quarter fast to the ice. I repacked my trunks to get into one every- things that I might wish to take with me if I were to leave the "Cluett" and into the other only what might be left on board without inconvenience. Also packed up box for Ekloww with spare underwear, tobacco, etc, ready to go to Unalak by Peter or whoever comes over with Captain Comer. Have been wishing all week to climb the plateau and see the midnight sun, but Sunday Monday & Tuesday nights were cloudy or stormy and last night the gale was too strong for me to attempt it. May go up tonight. Sun at max decl now. (23 June) Did go up and had a fine little ex- cursion. Left vessel at 10:30p. I went ashore near the igloo and ascended the big gullch ¼mi or more east of Fuddla's. Easy route over grass, moss and mostly small stones and earth with not many large areas of big angular blocks to high scuttle. Rather cold in the shadow of the cliffs and mountains. 32° on board when I left and cooler on shore because snow was frozen and ice was forming on the little pools. When I got up to the edge of the plateau I saw the men building the cairn on the brow of the cliff overlooking the vessel but I did not go toward them then. HCP, Ralph, Ben, Taylor and Charlie had left the vessel before 8 o'clock to go up and build the cairn and be there at midnight on this, one of the two "longest days" of the year. I kept on toward my knoll till 11:35 when I was at elevation 1050ft a- bout 300yards from top. The view was beautiful,
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with lots of open blue water in sight (1/67 Toward the W. and S. Oh, to think of that 13 3/4 miles of firm bay ice that keeps us from util- izing it! The cairn was finished and I could hear the men shouting to me, though they were fully a mile away. I gave an answering shout, which they did not hear, and perceiving by my watch that the proposed photo. had probably not been taken I started toward them. Reached the cairn at 11:58 and the captain took one picture with me in the group. Then I took one with him in it. The cairn is conical in shape and 7 or 8 ft. high. I could not take any pictures for myself, because I have no more films and I sent my grafex camera to EIC on Tuesday. The shadow of the cliffs lies 1/3 way across the bay and the sun's rays do not strike even the trucks of the vessel's masts. Could see some decks and gulls on the surface of the fresh water pond behind the beach on the south side of the fleet. Picked some poppies near the cairn under the light of the mid-night sun. Very little wind (N.E.) on the plateau and the whole scene was beautiful. Sun is about 10° above the northern horizon and is well above the mountains between us and North Star Bay, but its rays come at too low an angle to have much heating effects. We all came down a gully in the face of the cliff, I being the last to leave at about 12:10 a.m. Reached the "Chrett" at 12:30 (12:30 23 June. Friday. Clear, cloudless; calm or light variable winds from S.E. or S. in a.m. and moderate from N. in afternoon. Calm evening. Temp. min. 28°; 9a. 34°; 12m. 37°; 4p. 33°; 8p. 35° On board writing letters etc. Went out for an hour on bay ice along northern shore before dinner. Lots of concealed holes in the ice. Stepped into three, going down 1 1/2 ft. into one. Precarious footing along the open cracks where water has under-cut for 2 - 3 ft. leaving weak shelf of 4" porous ice.
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Chief brought in some purple leather (1/68) from the bear this noon. Taylor found the first eggs (2) of the season. May be we shall have some for breakfast Sunday morning. 24 June. Saturday. Clear & cloudless. Light S. or S.E. wind at 9a but calm later and light to moderate N.E. dur- ing part of afternoon. Temp. min. 28°; 9a. 37°; 12m. 36°; 4p. 34°; 8p. 35° Charlie & Norman washed cabin walls and ceiling to great improvement of the rooms. Chief washed my bearskin pants for me--quite a job. Gave him 10 cigars, since he has still to dry and rub them. From 12 to 4 was out geologizing on cliffs and in gulch next last of Pufflats igloo. Temp. on shore--shade near igloo 43°; sun 47°; shade in gulch 42°; on top 750-800'A.T. 34°. Found Huronian quartzite in gulch and on Plateau, see notebk. Greenland 2, pp.16+17. Two or three days ago H.C.P. told me that he came up the Greenland coast when he was a very young man as navigator on a Hali- burt fisherman, as far as off Upernivik but did not make the coast anywhere except at a small bight close to Egedesminde. This afternoon at 3:30 I took the altitude of the base of the cairn as 760' A.T. Measured the cairn as being 7'3" high on eastern side. The crew are having lots of fun hunting for little-antk eggs, but they do not find many yet and they have to move tons of rocks to get those. Had sea pigeon each in addition to little ants for dinner. The meat is coarser and not so good in flavor as that of the little antk. Liver- brown in color. Flowers of several kinds are becoming more abundant. Mosses not ready for collecting.
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To-day H.C.P. asked me to sell him some of my [illegible] 109 tobacco. Quite a change of front since 4 May, when he declared with an oath that he would not take any of it under any circumstances either by gift or sale! And it is too late now, having disposed of what I had left over from the coal transaction, except 11 little fleaps, which, as I told the captain, I am reserving for emergencies. Hence there is none for him now. 25 June. Sunday. Scattered cirrus clouds at 9 a., but sky became overcast by 10 o'clock. Light E or S.E. air at 9 a., increasing to moderate breeze by noon. Strongly N.S. Temp. min. 28°; 9 a. 37°; 10:30 a. 44°; 12 m. 39½°; 4p. 36° 8 p. 35° Some sensible swell affected vessel last evening. Strong Easterly (S.S.? ) wind in afternoon with heavy snow squall from 4 to 5 o'clock, and occasional spits of snow later. On board all day, writing letters or reading in "Last of the Mohicans" Had some little auk eggs at breakfast. They are very palatable. Yolk is rather red in color, and the white is rather translucent when boiled hard. The egg is about half as heavy as an ordinary hen egg, and is pale green-ish blue in color. It is very large in comparison with the size of the bird. The eggs are laid on the ground in the crevices of the cliffs and between the rocks of the talus slope. Normal number of eggs in a clutch is just one, and the mother bird fights to protect it or seeks to draw it away into a place of greater security from pursuit. Ben and Taylor each caught a bird yesterday just as she was about to lay and each squeezed the egg out of his bird. Forceful parturition! Little auk hot-pie, with underdone dumplings, bread, prunes, molasses and tea for dinner. Stormy evening.
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26 June. Monday. 170 Partly cloudy (C4), with light S.E. wind and occasional snow squalls in the mom. ing. Clear afternoon and strong gusty wind. Temp. min. 30°; 9a.37°; 12m.36°; 4p.35°; 8p.32° Worked on "Cluett Voyage". Read in "Last of the Mohicans". Took a half-hours walk on bay ice before dinner, but did not go far in either direction on account of bad walking, those being many concealed as well as open holes, much slush and many pools of water on the ice. Increase since Saturday. There seems to be much or at any rate some discontent among the crew, over the bird-catching and egg-collecting business. H.C.P. has praised Ben and Taylor so much that they have gotten the big head. This morning they had lots of eggs for bft., but would not give Mac Dougal any because he had not been out getting away though he had been flickering birds for the general use. He has not eaten any meat or birds for months, but Ben ate 18 egg, and Taylor a dozen, while Mac Dougal had nothing but bread and molasses, mush and coffee, sitting beside them. Norman gave the forecastle fits about their hoggishness. Where and when will all this acrimonious debate end? I don't want to hear any- things about "grub" or "tobacco" for ten years after I get home. We had quite a laugh on Norman a day or two because he spoke in all seriousness about the "faws" of the little ants. To-day the laugh was on the chief for talking about a "litter" of chickens. An awful lot of stones have to be moved in hunting for the eggs. A good many last years eggs have been found.
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To-day the mate brought in 38, Norman, 14, Ben 89, Hiander 46; Taylor [illegible], Ralph 30, H.C. P. 4 Chief's Charlie 10 - 291 in all. Ben found two eggs under one bird. Mate found two last year's eggs together in several instances. 27 June. Tuesday. Overcast and thick. Sun tried to shine a little while this morning but very success- fully. Strong easterly (S.E.) wind most of day, at times rising to force of a gale - Rain mingled with snow several hours. Temp. min 30°; 9a. 36½°; 12m. 38°; 4h. 34°; 8h. 32°. On board all day writing letters mostly, finished "Lost of the Mohicans" last night. Crew took life boats on board today. Ice and snow have melted a good deal in past 24 hrs., rain helping the process. Many pools of water to be seen on bay ice in every direction. Jolly boat is floating in such a pool - Baked murres in addition to little auks for dinner. Flavor is like that of duck. 28 June. Wednesday. Clear and cloudless, but yesterday's easterly gale continued all night and until latter part of afternoon. Temp. min. 31°; 9a. 36°; 12m. 37½°; 4h. 35°; 8½ 32° Sorted correspondence and made out list of C.L.E., Muss. & personal property on board the "Chett". After dinner went up on cliffs last of igloo hunting birds' eggs but found none. Went on up to Plateau and around to second eastern glued geologizing, then crossed flat at head of bay and went along beach to outlet of southern pond. All three the outlets of all three ponds now cut open by across the ice foot. Ice foot is much chan
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neled and honeycombed along the (172) Cracks which developed during the winter. The middle outflowing stream has done much the most cutting this far. Saw two seals in the pool outside the beach, one of wh. came into the inner basin. Saw 50 or 60 eider ducks and a dozen or 15 grells at the southern basin. Chief told me yesterday that H.C.P. made some ill natured sneering remarks the other day about my packing up the C.R.E. boxes to send to Ekblaw. What a surely disposition the captain has! He always has something nasty to say about everyone, except Dr. Grenfell and Dr. Little and he has ventured some criticisms regarding Dr. Grenfell. This has been another good egg day, but the lowest time is almost over. The mate himself got 106 today and the total of all hauls to date is 85 dozen. Seal beside vessel. 29 June. Thursday. Overcast, thick, stormy. Wind E. or S.E. 1-2 at 9a., but soon afterward heavy easterly gale began to rage. Latter part of afternoon wind shifted to S.W. and was moderately strong. E. again in evening. Heavy rain 7-8 a.m., Rain and snow at intervals afterward. Temp. min 30°; 9a. 40°; 12m. 36°; 4p. 36°; 8p. 35° Disagreeable day but we hope and think that damage is being done to the ice. Went up onto Knoll after dinner to look out over bay. Water line seems nearer to the big central berg than it was two or three wks. ago; but clearance by her means looks hopeless. Cook was moved up into the deck galley after dinner. (He went down 21 October) He complained bitterly about coming wh, just as he did last October about going down - Auroid makes Knoll 200 ft above bay.
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1 July. Saturday. 174 Overcast and thick. A strong gale began to rage about 10 o'clock this morning and has continued all day. E or S.E. 8 to 9 & fell 10. Temp. min 33; 9a. 37o; 12m. 40; 4h. 38o; 8h. 37o The storm has been too severe to permit Eginguash to start back to Umanak today. Wrote letters to Ekblaw, Rasmussen, Peter & Hunt. The wind has had great effect in softening and melting the surface of the ice and making pools. The report is that some ice has been driven off from the edge of the bay. Usual report! Captain Corner advises me to have nothing to say to Captain Peters against Mone's going south on its "Clemt". I have not been consulted in the matter and my silence will not compromise the Museum in any way, since I can not prevent H.C.P.'s doing as he pleases, whereas I might easily commit the Museum with reference to the charter party by making any effort to control the use of the vessel in any way. Inclosed letters for Pres. Osborn and Mr Sher-wood in packet going to Ek at Umanak 2 July. Sunday. Another severely stormy day. Wind E or S.E. 8-9. Considerable rain. Dusty. Temp. min 361/2; 9a. 41/2; 12m. 40o; 4h. 36o 8h. 341/2o Are glad that the heavy storm continues. Mate came in after making new mooring for the bowlines, which had been torn loose from the ice, and remarked "Gee! It's only just begun to blow" much more water in pools on the ice than appeared yesterday. Some men said to be gone outside, but the "bugbear berg" holds its place in the middle of the bay 1 1/2 mi. from the ship. Eginguash still here. For offr.
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4 July. Tuesday. (176) Cloudy. Wind S.E. 3 and variable. Some calm hours. Flurry of snow about 11a.m. Temp. min. 33°; 9a. 38°; 12m. 36°; 4p. 37°; 8p. 34° Not a wholly pleasant day, but a great re- lief from the last three days of storm. Egingwah got another seal for us. It takes an Eskimo to be successful in hunting seals. Fourth was celebrated by the addition of plum duff and raisins to the dinner menu. Had little cakes for breakfast. Out for 3/4 hr on bay ice w. Capt. Cover before dinner. Captain Cover this morning, after reading Dr. Hunt's written opinions regarding my phys- icical condition and ability to make journey to Unalakleet, agreed with me in thinking that it was not best for me to go over to North Star Bay now and that I was doing right in staying here and going out on the "Cinet" if she broke out before the arrival of the relief steamer; or transferring both of us and all Museum and expedition property from the schooner to the steamer, if the latter showed come before we are re- leased from Parker Snow Bay. G.C. reports that Peter says that a tidal wave visited this region in the spring or early summer of 1912, moving heavy stones and big pieces of turf up the beach at Sann- ders Island and flooded some tupics. 5 July. Wednesday. Beautiful day, clear, but C.f in earlier part of day, almost cloudless though afternoon. Calm or nearly so. N.W. 2-3 outside. Temp. min. 31°; 9a 39°; 12m. 38°; 12:30 a. 4½°; 4p 37½°; 8p. 42° Egingwah started for Unalakleet at about 10:30 this morning.
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Ventasthore with Captain Corner (177) to old Eupic site on shore and then mutual to Ahnqudobalho's old igloo taking their photos with his camera. Then I left him, went on along the shore to about a half mile west of vessel, where I ascended a big gully to the plateau and then along brink of cliffs to western border of Norman's Gulch, where I stayed on the rocks in the sun for half hour looking over sea and ice and writing. Then back across plateau and down cliff above the lumber, getting back to the ship at 4:20. After dinner had a long private talk with Captain Corner in the course of which I became satisfied and I think that leded that Ekblew had been straightforward in his dealings with me, regarding my going over to North Star Bay. I was particular about this because G.C. had said this morning, as I said before, that "they" had been "pulling the wool" over my eyes, and he meant and thought that Ek had intentionally managed things so that I should not go over to Unnakak. I showed him that Ek had arranged matters twice so that I could go, if I thought best, but that Dr. Hernts positive advice was against my going, at first on account of bad conditions over there and later on ac- count of the [illegible] difficult or severe na- ture of the journey and the uncertainty of getting back to the "Chrett" if she were to break out of the ice before the arrival of the steamer. 6 July. Thursday. Clear and cloudless at 9a, but clouded over by noon. N.E.4 inclt to 5+6 - gusty- Temp. min.28°; 9a.37°; /2m.33½°; 4h.35°; 8h.35° + wind moderate. Onboard all day on account of heavy
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Cold wind. Captain Comer was ashore (178) Digging at the old igloos for a time, but without Finding anything of value to-day. Sent word to Ralph that I would accept his offer of $5 for my rubber boots, but when he came aft to look at them, I stayed out of the cabin purposely and H.C.P. sold him for $5.25 a pr. of expedition boots wh. he had bought from me for $4. According to Norman H.C.P. said that he would not give 30 cents for mine. Not good for ship use, I presume. But H.C.P. tried a few minutes later, after Norman and Ralph had gone out, to buy mine for $4 for himself. I would not sell them for less than $5, the price made to Ralph, and the captain will not take that, As I told him, the boots cost me $6.75 and I can turn them back to A. & F. and get full price. H.C.P. is on the make all right. He charged me full price of 75¢ for a slop chest sou'wester which Norman says ought not to cost but 50¢ A very disagreeable afternoon on ac- count of the cold wind off the ice cap - 7 July. Friday. Cloudless till after noon but increasing cloudy from 3 o'clock on. Wind S2 at 9 a. but soon veered to W. or S.W. and became strong and gusty. H.C.P. spoke of the wind as the bear- test that he had had from that quarter. Variable in direction + force - Temp. Min. 30°; 9a. 47°; 12m. 45°; 3p. 50°; 4p. 47°; 8p. This has been the warmest day that we have had since coming in here. The warmth and the westerly wind must have done some dam- age to the ice! Worked a good bit on "Chett Voyage" Told Captain Pickels that I should wish to be transferred to steamer with all expedition and museum property in case the steamer shd. arrive before we break out. He thought that it might be hard work to get things out across the ice. I said that I knew
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thus and that I was willing to pay (179) the crew for the work. He admitted that the ice-kamik might be re-shod for the job. Between 3 & 4 p. I went on shore and collect- ed a small box of mosses from the gentle slope 200 yds ± east of the igloo. Brook running down the gully east of the igloo is very strong today. It has cut its channel through the snow to within 20-25yds. of the cliff. Little oaks + mussels stew for dinner. I raised a great laugh to-day by saying that the hairs which I saw scurrying up the face of the bluff at Startstein Bay on 15 Sept., last look- ed like a flurry of snow. 8 July. Saturday. Thinly overcast at 9a. and wind from NW scarcely perceptible, at 2 a.m. the wind was blowing a "regular twister" from the E and temperature 41° according to the mate. At 4 a.m. the thermometer stood at 43° according to the chief. Temp. min. 36½°; 9a.38°; 12m.38½°; 4p.38°; 8p.36° Chief went ashore directly after breakfast to continue his search for the nest and eggs of the kestr (Turinga carcutus) which he un- derstands to be worth $500, but he is look- ing for them on the flats at the head of the bay. South wind blowing strongly in gusts from 10:30 on, beginning to rain at noon. - Taylor brought in a seal at noon, which he shot from the beach midway between the middle and southern groups. Not much rain. Three hours or more on "Clive Voyage" After dinner Captain Corner and I walk- ed over to the tongue glacier beside the New- atata glacier, going across the bay ice to
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the middle of the beach and return (180) ing across the flat to near the igloo before striking the bay again. Walking on bay ice is excellent, winding about between the pools. Noted the granular stephane of the glacier ice. Very little water flowing from the southern arm of the Nunatak Glacier, but rather more from the northern arm. Strong stream six to ten feet wide and four to six inches deep coming from the Cluest (1) glacier and another perhaps equally strong stream flowing from the ice cap through the valley up which the route to Unmanak lies. Many flowers - purple heather (?), purple saxifrage (peppine), yellow poppy, yellow buttercup (?), light violet honeysuckle (?), white hare bell like flower on stiff resinous plant which is used by Eskimos for fuel when oil is absent, etc. A good walk of four or five miles, but easterly wind off the glaciers was strong and piercing and we passed through a light flurry of snow. 9 July. Sunday. C 4. Clear. Almost cloudless from mid- afternoon on. Light southerly breeze (52) at 9a and lights variable or calm all day. Beautiful day. Temp. min 3 1/2°; 9a. 43°; 12m. 45°; 4p. 42°; 6p. 48°; 8p. Chief flared up this morning over my asking Norman (who appeared with clean shaven face, except upper lip) if he was trying to rival the chief. Now the chief shaved off his beard a few days ago, leaving the mustache, and he has gotten a great deal of chaffing from the cabin regarding his appearance, in which how ever I have joined but little. This morning he cursed us all for joining him and said he'd eat at a separate table etc. He was so ugly and swore so much that H.C.P. went for him hard and made him stop talking.
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firmed me in this decision, 1/82 I find K.R. a delightful man to meet. 11 July. Tuesday. Clear + cloudless. Wind S l at ship, but N.W. on floe. Temp. min 31½°; 9a. 46°; 12m 41°; 4h. 43°. Finished packing and completed business with Captain Pickels leaving letters for him to forward her paid and list of all Exfd. + Mus.+ pers. property remaining on board Cluett. Amount of baggage rather staggered Peter but Rasmussen was game for it and at about 1 p.m. Two kametites took it all to the beach without accident, though the sledge load- ed with the Etha boxes started to slide back down the ice foot. I was standing alone by it and grabbed the points of one runner, lifting it a little and an instant later the rear corners of the runners coughed in the snow and stopped the descent of the sledge. I left the ship a minute in advance of Peters and Captain Corner (?) after a very cordial farewell from all the crew and a sufficiently hearty parting with Captain Pickels (in the cabin). As we three were walscing across the ice, the crew gave us a crousing cheer and Mene (?) fired a salute from his rifle. The packages were rearranged and loaded onto the six sledges - Rasmussen using my sleeping bag to help make his sledge a very comfortable place for me to ride. Peter took Captain Corner on his sledge and was the first one to start from in front of the igloo at 12 July, Wednesday 12:20 a.m. followed with in ten minutes by all the others. I walked across the high beach and the first brook (coming from the first gulf east of the igloo) and along the snow beside the large brook until Rasmussen. I jumped on and rode the whole distance to the ice of North Star Bay, just as Rasmussen had said that I should, though the snow was soft on
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the upgrade to the highest ridge of the [1/83] Ice cap (along the trail i.e.) we reached the summit at 2:30 a.m. and my anoid gave the elevation as being 2050 feet above the sea. The sky was overcast so thickly that we could not even determine the po- sition of the sun, but the atmosphere was not thick and the cloudiness was advantageous for our eyes. View from summit is very ex- tensive and I was sorry not to be able to stop longer for its enjoyment. Much open water along the shore and for 30-35 miles, but beyond that was a solid field of ice as far as the eye could see, from the Cape York region northward. The neve field of the Peterik glacier is several miles across and it took us nearly two hours to traverse it. Nunnats project through the ice cap some miles to the east of the trail & indicate that we are not on the main con- tinental cap. From the northern portion of the Peterik neve' and beyond, I got a good look at the maze of summits and gorges in the Cape Athol district. More strongly than before did I realize the foolishness of the undertaking of Norman & Taylor to walk to Umanak on 2 & February. After we reached the summit we encountered a moderate north-northeastly or northeasterly breeze which was so keen that I soon asked Rasmussen to stop and let me put on my sweater under my netska. Then I was all right- and comfortable again. The cloudy sky made the surface of the ice cap much softer and more diffident for the dogs than it was under the clear sky which favored Ras. Nunnsen's downward trip. The level of the Peterik neve' was about 1700' A.T. where we crossed it. Then we ascended 100'+ and began the long descent of the glacier, parallel with the lateral moraine - unless the moraine is to be regarded as the terminal moraine of the border of the ice cap. Moraine is very hum -
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rocky and is not derived from /184 any bordering high land, for no such shows along the whole stretch to the river discharging into North Star Bay. Composed of earth, sand, gravel and small boulders with an occasional large erratic. Some- times the dogs were driven at utmost speed to keep out of the way of the sliding kamaratik. Great fun! Crossed some streams flowing in the surface of the glacier. These must have considerable effect in reduc- ing the swiftness of the glacial river, for this does not seem to be much water coming from underneath the ice. Reach- ed the place for descent from the ice about 6:15 and slid down without accident, the surface being soft. 80-100 feet. Exciting moments, with dogs on full jump! Sledge on the rear cor- ners of the runners, being held there by Rasmussen who, with firm grasp on the upstanderbar, dug his heels into the snow-ice to check the rapidity of descent. Bottom of glacier stream (ice) 800 feet A.T. We stopped beside an erratic section of a large basaltic column, made coffee, had some- things to eat and rested for about two hours. Then began the 10-mile stretch over stones, moss, grass and earth with an occasional en- couraging ribbon of snow. Even going over this stuff, the dogs pulled the sledge with me on it at a rate that usually made Rasmus- sen try to keep up. We reached the ice foot of North Star Bay about 10:25 and after a little maneuvering to cross out to the solid ice we drove to the house, where Esk & Dr. are living. Except for 100 yds+ crossing the ice foot I stuck to the kamaratik. Esk greeted me cordially, and Dr. evidently meant it when he said that he was glad to see me. I feel like a boy on a vacation from school, or possibly a man released from prison, to be free from the clutch of- living on her a year lasting one week, during wh- the 7 nights spent at Cape York were my only absence. + Slept 5 hours in the afternoon and then after a pleasant evening with the boys turned in again at 10:30