side, when Norman began [32] To complain of the cold, then Taylor urged him to turn back. After a time they did so and were half way across the glacier at Sunset. They got down into the little gulch on the south side of the glacier and started up over the moun- tain to come down through the big gulch. Norman was suf- fering severely and Taylor had to rub his arm to keep it from freezing. He (N.) could walk only a few yards without having to sit or lie down to rest. From Taylor's first account we sup- posed that he had left Norman headed down the big gulch, but H.P. learned at 8:10 that it was half way up the little gulch. This made matters much worse,