Journal and notes of H. Hamlin : Whitney South Sea Expedition July 20, 1927 to August 8, 1930.

BIRD DEPT., LIBRARY 1C-2 JOURNAL AND NOTES of H. HAMLIN WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION 1927-28

JOURNAL July 20, 1927 Took leave of Doctors Chapman and Murphy and the Museum in the afternoon. Mr. Thomas Barbour, the reptile expert, informed us of Plasmochin which fixes malaria with none of the discomforts that accompany the action of quinine; it is a German preparation, which we shall probably be unable to get. G.R. and I were accorded a memorable farewell celebration by many of the best in Yale '27. We departed from the Grand Central at 9:45 E.S.T. on the Montrealer with all our baggage, instructions, and the 6000 auk shells. Also two bottles of champagne, a perfect charade of the "coals to Newcastle" idea. July 21 Arrived at Montreal at 8:50 feeling no ill effects from Ludington's symposium. We visited McGill University, noting particularly the Library where was on exhibition a strange collection of Italian bird illustrations done in feathers. Unsuccessful in procuring Plasmochin. Lunched with Mr. Frank Clergue, ex-Bangor, and his friend Henry Josephs, who played in the McGill backfield the first year a contest was ever staged with Harvard in Montreal. Our host took us around his house which contained among other things the first piano (not a copy) played on by Paderewski in North America, a petrified tree-stump from Japan, two tusks from a walrus estimated to be over 200 years old, a genuine Turner, and the second watch built by the Hamilton makers. The meal, served by a Japanese servant, included caviar and real Madiera. Spent the afternoon swimming off an island in the St. Lawrence, returning in time to catch the trans-Canada Limited at 6:45 E.S.T. At dinner we killed the first bottle. July 22 Both of us exercised our new typewriters strenuously with eminent epistolary result. Have already met two travelers bound for Sydney on the Aorangi: a ship-builder from Fremantle, returning from a trip to Sweden, and a Londoner named Herbert whose one fraternal distinction is membership in the A.O.F.B. (Ancient Order of Froth Blowers); its ideals are contained in the name. A second degree is conferred upon the receipt of 25 neophytes and one becomes a "Blaster"; then a "Monsoon", and finally a "Grand Typhoon". The order provides automatic insurance to its members against everything that one could not possibly contract except "bitsers" (bits'o tin, bits'o wood, etc.,) Excellent scenery around Lake Superior. Temperature about 75. Saw some small ducks, doves, and hawks. July 23 Got off the train at Winnipeg and got the returns on the Dempsey-Sharkey fight. In strolling up the main street, we nearly missed the train; but returned to a most uninteresting afternoon's ride. Hot and dusty. Praries. July 24 The first sight of the Rockies came about 9 A.M. By noon we were well into them- Banff and Lake Louise showered passengers upon us as well as scenic beauty. 3.0 grades and spiral tunnels make one dizzy, the last, the Connaught being 15 miles long under Mt. Sir Donald (Glacier, B.C.) By 6 P.M. we were leaving them behind.

extraneous but not uninteresting illustrations view from Dr. R.C.Murphy's house at Crystal Brook - Port Jefferson, L.I. Molly Nichols & Alison Murphy (in a poor light)

THE THREE SISTERS, MT BANER CATHEDRAL PEAK. Views in the Canadian Rockies M STEFREN FIELD. HILLARY CANYON. B.C. MT SIR DONALD. GLACIER. B.C. a Tunnel under this baby

July 25 Off at Vancouver at 9:30 of a bright morning and the first object of importance that we saw was the S.S.Aorangi, 22,000 tons net displacement and very trim in appearance.At 10:30 we left for Seattle on the Princess Marguerite.On board were Alston Jenkins and Martin Fenton,both Yale'29.In Victoria we had a swim in the Crystal Garden pool.The sail down the sound was delightful.In Seattle we found Collins by sheer good fortune,for the telegram we sent from Moose Jaw never reached him.He immediately treated us to two box-spring beds. July 26 Among the many delightful indulgences of this day were swimming in Lake Washington and a seaplane ride over the city. After a splendid dinner we caught the same Princess Marguerite back to Vancouver.This trip was ex cathedra and not on the gen- erosity of the Museum(editor's note). July 27 Up betimes and busied about luggage.The auk shells were intact.A few supplies up-town and we were ready to sail,which we actually took part in.The Aorangi stopped for 2 hours in Victoria where we put foot on land for the last time before getting to sea.By 9:30 we were watching the lights disappear over the horizon. July 28 Lat.46-52 N. Long.128-6 W. Run 226 (noon recording) We are surrounded by Australians of very slight acquaint- ance.Our table companions - Mr.&Mrs.H.P.Christmas of Sydney. July 29 Lat.42-49 N. Long.135-49 W. Run 408 G.R.ill with chills and fever from under-eating and gen- eral change of environment;kept to his bunk and visited by the ship's surgeon who pronounced him a perfect specimen.We have resolved on a schedule(pronounced shedule in Anzac)that is go- ing to be difficult to follow-reading,writing,and exercising at regular times(and drinking). July 30 Lat.37-58 N. Long.142-15 W. Run 413 15/ tax for privilege to compete in deck-tennis and quoits I call burglary especially since the entries for every- thing except billiards,an aged game had closed before we were collared.Unfortunately it is a"necessary expense".The ocean out here is even calmer than near land.I always had an idea that it was due partly to depth,but Johnstone's"Study of the Oceans"reveals the fact that the deeps in the Pacific are all off the several continental shelves.The food on board is excel- lent;we hope to keep our weight down by exercise. The most distinguished passengers,I suppose,are Hon. William McCormack M.L.P.,Premier for Queensland,and Sir George Fairbairn,one of the biggest sheep owners in Australia.By far the nicest man,from the American sheep point of view is Mr.Pullr,a young Scotch,who is representing a famous cotton firm of Edin- burgh,established by his grandfather. July 31 Lat.32-43 N. Long.147-33 W. Run 408 (Sunday) 890 miles from Honolulu at noon.The most important event of the day was the divine service,conducted by Commander H.

Crawford Esq. The doctor read the lesson in unintelligible fashion, showing that the perfect Oxford accent can be wholly as strange as that of Brooklyn,N.Y.On the whole the religious exhibition was dull and inadequate.Why not organize a choir,as suggested by H.A.Eccles,a delightful doctor from Cornwall. "They played a tune on that beastly harmonium that no one had ever heard before,and nothing happened." The orchestra quite outdid themselves in an evening concert on the verandah cafe:stuff they could play- Gilbert & Sullivan and English folk-dances. August 1 Lat.27-22 N. Long.152-24 W. Run 408 Weather and sea continue favorable with prevailing winds SSW.Both wrote many letters in anticipation of Hawaii. August 2 Lat.22-1 N. Long.156-53 W. Run 408 Raised the island of Molokai shortly after 1 P.M. and a consequent rush of humanity to the boat-deck.A few gulls and terns about the ship.The approach to Honolulu harbor is a rhap- sody in blue;beautifully protected by reefs,the surf rolling in,great combers in line.Over in the inlet to Pearl Harbor lay a three-masted schooner, the name of which I have forgotten,but which was later pointed out as the carrier of numerous scien- tific expeditions.She is privately owned.Diamond Head lies off to your right and the town loses itself in the sloping hill- side which is finally surmounted by volcanic ridges.There are very few peaks;the group is volcanic in origin. By 6:30 we were in the surf at Waikiki beach off the Moana Hotel.We decided to spend the night.Governor Wallace Farrington was cordial(classmate of Cy Hamlin at the Univer- sity of Maine);his married daughter particularly so.His offi- cial residence is the former home of the last queen,Liliokil- anea.Built of coral,it has been added to and improved by Ameri- can comforts.We were received in a large piazza-like room where green plants peeped in on all sides.Mrs.Whittemore(the daughter) as we were about to leave invited us to what she termed"a rare Hawaiian party".It was.There we stepped into the midst of a fast younger set that would rival that of New York's suburbia and experienced the native drink okuleou(phonetic). Music was provided by two Hawaiian orchestras,one jazz and the other a typical trio.The singing was enchanting.A native girl danced the hula kui in full regalia with such grace and spirit that most of the female guests were induced to emulate her re- markable movements.The governor's daughter was particularly effective.In a group of three they danced a liliu-e which is designed to present a graphic description of the departed queen's anatomy.To the hotel after a late supper. August 3 Up at 7 and into the luxurious surf.At 7:30 Dr. Bryant of the Bishop Museum telephoned and later appeared in his Ford to take us for a ride.We visited the Aquarium and then circled Diamond Head;up on Pale the wind blows 70 miles an hour as a casual thing;it is a driveway that leads up to the historic scene of the battle in which Kamanemea pushed the defenders over the cliff and asserted superiority over the whole group of Hawaii.The view takes in the naval base and an arc of the coast for something like 20 miles.We met the director of the Aquarium,Dr.Edmondson.The best part of the plant is its labor- atories;the students can bring specimens in right off the reefs.The collection is small but very beautiful,and quite rep-

resentative.Then the University,an institution of over 1000 students and remarkable facilities- five or six large build- ings,outdoor swimming pool,football and baseball fields,and a couple of barrack-like dormitories.We stopped in at the labor- atories of pineapple and sugar commissions where scientific knowledge is developed concerning the culture and protection of these valuable products. These are the foundation of the wealth of Hawaii.Insects and birds of particular species have been imported to combat pests,worms and bugs,that has threat- ened their welfare. At the Bishop Museum we met Dr.Gregory,a much-antici- pated event.Our friend Bryant took us on a rapid but veryin- structive tour of the museum collections.He is Yale S'21 and spent 9 months on the"France",so his kindness was extremely welcome.He is sort of head curator and an etymologist by spe- ciality.The Polynesian stuff was wonderful representing prac- tically all the Pacific archipelagoes.It was our luck also to meet Dr.Buck an ethnologist and an authority on the Maoris.A Dr.Stokes urged us to discover the method of manufacture em- ployed in the making of adzes in the Solomons.Gregory told us not to forget land-shells and Bryant,of course,insects.I do hope we can send them something. Panini(native name of Frances Farrington),and Drs. Gregory and Bryant were at the pier with sweet leis of ginger- flower and awa pue,the blossom that exudes the very essence of the islands.The whole cerulean scene is before our eyes again- the water,the gentle slopes,and the cloud-capped mountains;na- tive boys do swan-dives off the hurricane deck as the Aorangi backs out.Furtive looks both on ship and shore;aloha oe,and the blessed islands are a wraith.In the harbor one casts one's lei into the ocean- if it floats,the traveller will surely return. August 4 Lat.15-20 N. Long.161-14 W. Run 408 Saw a few shearwaters and another larger bird,probably a species of petrel,brown dorsal markings with white on its underwings.Will the day ever come when I can recognize a spec- imen with confident assumption? The Committee has inaugurated another sports competition which we both entered to do right by the Museum.I was eliminated in the first round of the deck quoits. August 5 Lat.9-24 N. Long.164-46 W. Run 412 In the second round of the deck tennis I was thorough- ly drubbed by a Jew named Lazarus.G.R.reports that he saw two albatrosses this morning. August 6 Lat.3-45 N. Long.167-56 W. Run 389 Saw what appeared to be some species of petrel this morning.The Indian Ocean has attracted my interest lately and its islands especially- the Chagos,Seychelle,Maldive,Laccadive, and Andaman groups.Have these been thoroughly investigated?To- morrow around two A.M. we cross the equator.The mutation of cl imate has been one of the fascinations of the voyage,passing gradually into an opposite solstice. August 7 Lat.2-12 S. Long.171-25 W. Run 414 (Sunday) The Church of England had to get on without me this morning.About 1:45 we raised Mary Island,a typical coral atoll, the island furthest west of the Phoenix group.The bird life was wonderful.Gannets were plentiful and mostly of one species;

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terns and shearwaters.I recognized the fairy tern.Nothing on the island except a few palms and an old deserted hut.The blue lagoon enclosed by the atoll is about 3 miles wide.A large fringing reef to the northwest along the shore.There were many large birds but not albatrosses,mollymawks probab- ly.In crossing the prime meridian we lose one day.Many of the birds stayed with the ship until quite late at night. August 8 Lat.8-15 S. Long.174-48 W. Run 413 Passed the Horne Islands this morning,volcanic forma- tions thickly wooded and uninhabited.Not many marine birds in evidence.Some shearwaters. August 9 Lat.14-30 S. Long.178-45 W. Run 403 G.R.wins a prize at the fancy dress party as the"most sustained character".This enhances our chance of meeting some of the select passengers.We have met one man from the Solomons, a missionary of the C of E- R.C.Rudgard of Pawa on the island called Ugi,a little one located off the NW of Guadalcanar. August 10 This day does not exist as far as we are concerned. August 11 Lat. and Long. at 9:30 Suva,Fiji. The approach is not as beautiful as that of Hawaii, and particularly because the natives were burning sugar cane stalks.The harbor is well protected by barrier reefs,having a rather narrow entrance channel.It is actually a bay due to a promontory that extends out to sea quite a ways on the south. The natives impress one immediately by their wonderful phy- siques and rugged appearance;many of them do stevedore work on the pier.The only thing to do in Suva is to ride about;very interesting if you can keep awake,very dull if you cannot,and very expensive either way.About three hours and you are finish- ed if the ride is not.The driver never goes over 15 miles an hour,murmuring something about traffic regulations in reply to protest;at least ten cars passed us.The idea is to draw out th time.Well,we saw a native village whose picturesqueness had been dissipated by tourist exhibitionism.The young people are lazy and have lost their powers of vigor because of the white mores.We called on the chief who was busy making poi,but who raised his head to say,"Samboda"(evidently"good-day;good-bye- "Samboida").The location of the village was pretty- on the top of a bluff overlooking the harbor.The aboriginal natives would be expected to have difficulty in maintaining their culture,bei- ing outnumbered by Orientals and Indians.Very interesting was the government bird sanctuary well up in the interior;there was also a botanical garden,all this at an altitude of about 700 feet.We crossed the Nausori river,pictured below and visi- ted a sugar refinery.The chief produce of the islands consists of bananas,sugar,and pineapple. Foolishly we had lunch at the Grand Pacific Hotel (Gr. Terrific Hotel),which was just bad.The Aorangi was cleared by 2:30.We left native coin-divers waving farewell from their dug-outs and singing"Show Me the Way to Go Home",first in Eng- lisht and then in Fijian.About 7:30 we passed close to the out- lying island in our course,lying under a full moon,a light- house on the reef and a cloud on the mountain.The Solomons are only a few days run to the west.Gulls and shearwaters were in evidence until midnight when G.R.and I have a half hour ses- sion on the forepeak.

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Suva - Viti Levu, Fiji (note British police sloop) Rewa River - near Nausori - Viti Levu, Fiji August 12 Lat.23-34 S. Long.177-9 E. Run 337 Change in temperature and humidity phenomenal; overcast nearly all day until it cleared quite suddenly about 6 P.M. Twenty-four hours ago we were panting around Suva; now we are getting out the coats and rugs. August 13 Lat.29-58 S. Long.176-8 E. Run 388 This is the roughest day we have had so far, many peo- le staying below. Air much colder than yesterday; fur coats were in evidence. A gymkana was held in the afternoon. In the evening prizes were distributed in the lounge. The session ended with a great exchange of encomiums: the captain said in all his exper- ience he had never seen such an energetic and efficient sports committee and Sir George Fairbairn announced that this voyage was certainly the finest of his career. The last word was a quo- tation of the captain's - obviously a stock offering used every trip, something about "for the knowledge of whom I am richer, and of me they no poorer, I guess (or hope)." August 14 Lat.36-25 S. Long.174-59 E. Run 391 At noon we were 60 miles from Auckland and approach- ing the Bay of Islands. The harbor is remarkably protected thereby, great volcanic masses exhibiting extinct craters. New Zealand is a wonderful thermal region. Saw many petrels and as we came closer black-backed gulls in large numbers and a small gull, white with grey wings having white tips, and red feet. Passing the customs was quite laborious. And then the only thing we found ashore was a circle of frenzied evangeli- stists and socio-political ranters. One was expounding all the texts in the Bible that dealt in description of hell; another opposite was damning American wealth and morality as depicted

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by the movies; furthermore he denounced America as a nest of war propaganda and sabre-rattling. August 15 The Museum revealed a splendid Maori collection- imp- lements, dwelling-places, and dress; wonderful wood carving. The bird and animal exhibits looked ratty; poorly mounted and ra- ther jumbled. It makes one appreciate how valuable the groups pictured in their natural environment by the artists in N.Y., are for fixing the specimens in the mind of the observer. I did see one or two tattooed heads in very poor state; those on the 4th floor of our Museum are certainly remarkable. The Zoo was very fine and the best thing the town offers. Located in a large hallow with paths leading down in terrace fashion. The carnivores looked in excellent shape; and quite a variety al- though the institution is only four years old. Splendid bird specimens, especially eagles and vultures; pigeons, parrots, and finches were plentiful. The keeper was particularly proud of the American bison. August 16 Lat.34-21 S. Long.170- 1 E. Run 344 Since it is the end of winter down here we have deci- ded not to go to Tasmania, which would cost us plenty and make us very cold. The definite sailing date of the Mataram that will take us to Tulagi is the 31st according to the purser. Saw six mollyhawks which are following the ship and one lone black storm petrel. I am tempted to float a hook out baited with meat to see if I can catch one and try skinning it. August 17 Lat.34-16 S. Long.162-37 E. Run 367 Someone had an idea that we should arrive two days early but the Tasman Sea kicked up and the Aorangi is travel- lng at half speed. So we shall arrive on the 19th, one day ear- lier than the schedule calls for. The last days drag. Saw a few shearwaters- I should say, puffinus (gavia or assimilis); flight very rapid and zig-zag. The mollyhawks are still with us, beau- tiful in flight. Mollyhawks in flight

QI Jaugus -gai -noilraliea inome Aianana, e balteven manoua adt ent. gnivrar Ibeo Inrifinro:dean- lim ,weolid-grilllani, djneaa; -as hna hetnuoa yidoo;YJJan rensoi udiIrine Imaine hra Ira squoq de almaniea vod ealoevya ooo seian yi balduj toor ... .1 ni ajaliua ehg gd troknorlyne Ieiganan riedr ni teunio: liis I. raavege adJ lo hda enJ ai anaiaseq enJ paixii? 'ot eaa ent ne shori;Gjade troo yter ni abred beoojaii cut to ena oee ass oon ed'.aidmhaeet [ir]iaJue ooa aieouo uho tu tooi J2A a ni hodeool.ualle owo ent gniid Jeod adJ im snii vrvv ent.nofaaat coohar ai doot gninael bidan nliw wolian apai: -Ir yrelrav e Aup Dna;eaana Jneffexa ni lekooi aenvirnee said hinbnieq.bie enay vooi vino al noJnilzanI edJ ngnont roo,edorioo,anoeiglaeeuJav haa aeiaae i[le]eanae,aaiafeeoa lo huouy yinauoitliea ooo aegbed adJ.IuliJeool'vow' aaohii: .doaid noclnea edJ Qat noo .J I -UYi.gnoI .2 16-07.Jai QI Jaugus -Ioob evan ew eroli mwoh rodm/e lo ene adt ai Jf bonie edaa hna yJmele au Jaoo hiouw doidw,alnneat of og oj ton het Iii vana; mareJai ehg lo ojab gniliac ealnil'ee edT.dioe yrov eu xia 'va'.raennq enJ oj gnitrrenu jaif adJ ai Igaia? of au eda? noald acof ono hna qina.ond gniveliof ara doine nteavyiiion Jaan afie hollad Joo nood e faofl of bedqed Ma I.lerJeq mrode .JI gninaiZe yid.bao ano hoJeo rao I 'if een oj Yot nuu .2 YE-S01.gnoI .2 ai-45.JaI VI Jaugus ayel oes avirra bluoie ay Jaaj rehi na hae enmon -levead si ignarok ehJ haa qu hoJoik bed naman't haa jad yfue -oe veb ono,dei adJ oe avirre Ilaao oo od.baege Tleed in puil ve? A wed.gurb ayav Jaai eoi'T.rol lifen einheoca ehJ hadd Joli faigii;[a]llinaue to alvag/anul'iaq,yea bluoie I -arataa'eade -oeod,au doiv liie ota nteavyiion edT.yaz-pia haa biqer yrev .Jagii ni Juiij

(9) August 18 Lat.33-58 S. Long.156-38 E. Run 298 Quite rough last night and the worst it has been during the whole voyage this morning.Luckily we have gotten used to it so we do not miss a meal.To-morrow morning early we shall raise Sydney Heads.The doctor informed me that this is the breeding season for albatrosses.To-day we saw flocks of little shearwaters and isolated petrels. August 19 Awoke in time to sea the South Head go by.Picked up the doctor at 7 and by 8 we were anchored well up in the 'arbor.Considerable confusion about luggage and we finally got up to the Australia Hotel.Richards first gesture,signa-lizing our advent to New South Wales was to spill a large order of cocktailed oysters on his vest.In the afternoon we called on Burns Philp & Co.,the reputed agents of Mr.Beck.An official named Virtue thought he might be at Gizo but no one was sure of anything.The American Consulate had a letter from Mr.Beck dated sometime in January.G.R.advises sending a wireless to Tu-lagi which will be done to-morrow. Two American physicians on lecturing tours of the Aus-tralasian Universities got on at Auckland(Drs.Cavallo(?) and Bishop);the former introduced us to a Dr.Todd on the pier who is a trustee of the Zoo.He promised to try to put us in touch with some bird men in Sydney. Sydney harbor from Toronga Park Zoo August 20 The Mataram gets in to-morrow.I made an appointment with a dentist to have him take care of a tooth I broke on the Aorangi.After lunch we took a remarkable ferry ride up the Parramatta River.A good deal of nice land under cultivation.On the banks grow numbers of mangrove trees,their roots in the wa-ter and often covered with molluscs,oysters probably.Saw black swans and cormorants of some kind with white throats.At the end of the trip we were conveyed by a ridiculous train to a place called Rosehill,a race course in action.We came in time to see the last race after which we returned to town on a race-track special.Our tickets,presented to us by the ferryman,were

no good but the conductor did not seem to mind if we did ride along. The dinners at the Australia are excellent.We get our breakfasts with beds,eat very light lunches outside wherever we happen to be,and order plenty in the evening.This night we saw the first great venture of the Australasian Pictures Inc., "For the Term of His Natural Life",the scenario based on the novel by Marcus Clarke.The cold air here at night makes for fine sleeping. August 21 Sunday and inevitably a dull day in theory.We visited the Zoo and were well entertained.The birds are excellent,partic- ularly inland aquatic species- herons,cranes,storks,and king- fishers.Tropical birds well represented.The bower bird is very interesting,posessing a strange call and eccentric habits. There were birds of paradise from New Guinea and birds of prey from the interior of Australia.Marsupials,of course,and the Tasmanian devil,the only mammal in this part of the world that does not carry its young in a pouch.Here,too,the object of their pride is the American bison.The Zoo itself is located on a hillside across the harbor from the city;somewhat like the Auckland institution,the exhibitions are arranged in a terrace formation,and the carnivores in dens behind ditches so that one does not have to look at them through bars.In this they are better than our American zoos,but not in variety of selec- tion.The return ride in the ferry gave us a fine view of H.M.S. Sydney,the conqueror of the Emden,which is anchored in the har- bor.This evening we sent a wireless message to Mr.Beck at Tu- lagi. August 22 Weather continues clear and cool.Yesterday afternoon we visited the Heads and Watson's Bay.Application for permis- sion to go to the Solomons revealed the fact that we must first be cleared by the Internal Revenue Department.And since I have a visa for Australia only I must have another picture taken of my face.Visited an art gallery and the Library. August 23 A second visit to the Zoo gave us more of an insight into the bird collection,which is even larger than we judged. The Aquarium was open and is stocked with native fish from the vicinity of Sydney harbor.Quite a large tank full of sharks.To- day we paid for our passage and secured the necessary signa-tures from the tax office that enabled the passport dept.to give us visas.To date we have attended two dramatic offerings, "The Road to Rome"and"The Ringer". August 24 Inspected the Maloja with a fellow passenger from the AorangI who sails on her to-morrow from Woolloomooloo(name of a wharf).This man,Dr.Eccles,is a charming old fellow and resides in Cornwall near the sea.Of late I have been seeing a good bit of a dentist. August 25 G.R.off for the Jenolan Caves,a mountain resort,at 9 A.M.I again tried a few chemists for Plasmochin without suc- cess.Since I had to purchase something I got some knives and

""" 15 Jauyua """ 25 Jauyua 35 Jauyua 45 Jauyua 55 Jauyua

fishing tackle to trade with natives.Then I watched the Aorangi steam out.The dentist in addition to the broken tooth found four swell cavities. August 26 This morning I discovered that all our luggage was in imminent danger of being chucked into Sydney Harbor;we suppos- ed that we had left it under customs bond,but this privilege does not entail responsibility for over 24 hours.I had it trans- shipped to the Mataram wharf.The S.S.Ventura brought us each a couple of letters.Spent the afternoon and evening in the Libra- ry.Thunder showers somewhat relieved the impending drought. August 27 What is duller than a morning in a White de luxe mo- tor bus? The answer is,an afternoon.I had resigned myself af- ter the first stop for morning tiffin,but after lunch the scen- ery began to excite interest and wonder;added to the comfort of half a whole back seat,which was vacated at Katoomba,it made the afternoon quite enjoyable.Blue Mountains they are and reminiscent of Vermont,very rugged and peopled with iron-wood forests.From one o'clock we climbed to over 3000 feet,eventual- ly running along a ridge that overlooked a broad valley.There upon the summit was a monolisk erected to the memory of the three men that first blazed a trail over the mountains,led by Captain Lawton(1815).The view down the valley resembles the Yellowstone in spots.Nothing else except tea in a ramshackle hotel.Very little habitation which gave the scenery a pristine beauty.We slid over a hill and dropped into the valley of the caves,passing G.R.about five miles from town on his afternoon overland.Coasting through a vaulted grotto called the Devil's Coach House where the wind rushes,the expectant traveller pas- ses all the entrances to the various caves and suddenly finds the Caves House bursting about his ears.This lies in the ex- act bottom of a huge draw and roughly wooded slopes confront every window.No heat except open fire-places which are not much help.The place is government-run and provides sanctuary in a surrounding area for wild birds and animals.There are rock wallabies,possum,goats,and rabbits in profusion;bird life is prolific,the Australian kingfisher(laughing jackass),king parrots,jays,magpies,crows,and numerous small birds that we could not recognize. The caves are a result of geosyncline weakness in th under-strata;great pressures have creased the surface strata in to indistinguishable layers,while it has given way below,form- ing the caves.The upper crust is really a great mountain from external appearance.One enters them from the lowest level and climbs.An underground river keeps the cave bed cut out by a con- stant process of erosion.The roof is gradually settling and th openings are slowly closing because of this and the lime car- bonate growths in the interior.Stalagmites,which grow up from the floor are more rapid in process than the stalactites,which grow down from the ceiling. August 28 Yesterday a month we sailed from Vancouver.To-day be- ing Sunday we sought God in the earth,visiting two of the best caves.Guides are most solicitous and point out all the forma- tions,chemical and plastic.Most of them have developed stock answers of humorous intent for all possible questions.For in-

(12) stance: "Looking up you see the vault of the Devil's Coach House, one hundred and eighteen feet in height from which the recorder for births, deaths, and marriages for this district fell in the year 1867." Question: "Was he killed." "Ah, no- he was a public servant." One chamber was 250 feet X 200 and beautifully marked and colored by iron oxides. August 29 The ride back reminded me painfully of the ride out; for I was jammed in beside a fat lady all the way. Besides the stops for tiffin, we saw Leura Falls and the Jamieson Valley- famous jumping-off places recently graced by the tender gazes of H.R.H. the Duke of York and his wife, the Duchess. The bus got us to the hotel in good time to bathe, dress, dine, and around the corner to the theater for "Ruddigore". This was easily our most enjoyable experience in New South Wales. August 30 A great decision was reached this morning, namely not to proceed to Brisbane by the steamer-motor route proposed by our table companions on the Aorangi. We were very foolish to consider it since it costs five pounds more and entails grave risk in regard to baggage. Mr. Lawson, the consular-general re- gistered us as defenders of the Constitution and promised to facilitate the transportation of any remains, etc., The dentist finished the job on my teeth, extracting five guineas from me in the last visit. Spent the afternoon and evening at the Libra- ry. August 31 G.R. got an eleventh hour inoculation against small- pox. Upon arriving at the pier we were informed that the ship might not go to Brisbane at all on account of an impending general strike in Queensland, startling news when we realized that by the morning's vacillation between going on the Mataram and going via the tourist route and Byron Bay we were playing dangerously with the chance of missing the only boat to the Solomons in six weeks. The news did prompt action, for we had time to rush back uptown and buy the few things we had thought of getting in Brisbane. The Mataram finally got off but shortly anchored in Watson's Bay to wait for the mail from Melbourne. This held us up three hours but we finally got out of the Head with H.M.A.S. Sydney right in our wake. Later we learned that she is bound for Tulagi also; and that the Leftenant-Commander went around the islands with this ship the last trip in order to learn the reefs. The Matarm is only about 5000 tons but quite chummy and comfortable; her maximum speed is ten knots but she goes all the time. About 35 passengers, most of them taking the round trip for health or holiday. In the harbor we saw many gulls of the peculiar Australian variety- silver gull, I think they call it-small (about 18 inches), white breast, silvery-grey back, and black tips on the wings. In addition I saw one lone albatross, a strange enough sight, paddling around amongst them. It was un- mistakably diomedea exulans, the first of this species I have honestly seen.

(3) September 1 Lat.30-56 S. Long.153-7 E. Run 205 Navigators hug the coast to get the advantage of a cold current,evidently Antarctic in origin,that moves quite rapidly northward.This part of the shore is sandy and does not appear to support much.Saw some cormorants similar to those described in connection with the trip up the Parramatta River. Also terns and larger birds that I think are gannets- very adept at diving,sometimes from the height of fifty or a hun-dred feet,the bird penetrating the water quite a few feet af-ter prey.Whales are around in schools- humpbacks and right whales on their way south to colder waters. There is one little man on board named Quintal who hails from Norfolk Island.Heis a descendant of one of the mu-tineers of H.M.S. Bounty that went ashore and settled on Pit-cairn Island in the early part of the nineteenth century.He has promised to send me some photographs of birds that he has taken on Norfolk Island. September 2 Lat.27-12 S. Long.153-29 E. Run 233 Weather has never been so fine.Terns plentiful;also counte some petrels.On the basis of some reassuring word by radio the captain has decided to go to Brisbane.At 3 P.M.we passed Moreton Island and entered the bay (also Moreton), which is over 20 miles wide,the entrance to the Brisbane River. On the way in we passed the William Penn of Galveston,the first American ship we have seen since we left.Vessels going to Bris-bane stop at Pinkenba which is at the mouth of the river and 15 miles from town.The latter we reached by motor and in time to catch a few stores open so that we could get a few things we thought we might need.All the residential houses are most-ly one-story bungalow style and built on piles,somewhat remi-niscent of Honolulu. September 3 Lat.25-11 S. Long.153-19 E. Run 147 1063 miles from Tulagi at noon to-day,and Sandy Cape,the last bit of mainland we shall see for some time just dropping over the stern.Here through the second's glasses I was shown some wild horses on this bleak spot- he called them "brumbies",little fellows with thick necks and rather large heads for their bodies.More whales to-day and some only 200 yards off the ship.One gave us a great thrill by"breaching", leaping clear out of the water;then he would pound on the sur-face of the water lazily with one great fin.Birds not as plen-tiful as they have been- a few flocks of shearwaters and lone petrels. September 4 Lat.21-36 S. Long.154-36 E. Run 227 Fairly rough to-day.We have caught the trades.Saw some Mother Cary's Chickens,little black and white birds;they appear to"shear"in their flight,skimming the water with their wings like the shearwaters. September 5 Lat. 17-54 S. Long.156-4 E. Run 238 Prevailing SW trade winds keepus cool;in addition the sky is overcast.At noon we were 598 miles from Tulagi and general prognosis has it that we shall be in port by Wednesday evening(7th)and shall anchor in the harbor until morning.This afternoon we passed close to Mellish Reef,a coral atoll of con-

(4) siderable extent.One of the Burns Philp boats on this run piled up thereon four years ago with the present skipper of this ship in command.He ordered one blast on the whistle as we swung off to the starboard to pronounce a sort of benediction. Flocks of birds around the reef,most of them too far away for recognition.A few gannets came near enough to see their beauti- ful markings and features:black body and head with almost ora- ange under-markings on wings and breast- straight,white beaks. The"sparks"has promised to try to find out from the Tulagi sta- tion whether or not the"France"is in port.Last night we had a "little visitor"in our cabin in the form of one specially de- signed wave,the aperture of entrance being beside the upper berth which I occupy. I had my attention called to Rennel Island,one that is SW of the Solomons and somewhat isolated from them.The Mataram took two government investigators,evidently geologists to Tulagi last trip;they were on their way to Rennel.According to report it is quite untouched;they say there is only one nav- gable harbor,for the island rises out of the sea like a great plateau.There are natives on it in a primitive state using im- plements of stone and wood,there being no iron on the place. September 6 Lat.14-10 S. Long.157-11 E. Run 234 Another overcast day with the glass falling.Our friend Mr.Quintal told me a great deal about Norfolk Island;he remembers well when the"France"collected there something like three years ago.It must be a wonderful place to live;excellent cclimate and no disease.They raise dairy cattle and grow all their own vegetables. I tried to catch birds off the stern with fish hook and line- no success;it is too difficult to attract their attention and besides Burns Philp are not in fa- vor of the idea. September 7 Lat.10-29 S. Long.158-50 E. Run 243 Barometer down to 29.2,squalls of rain frequent.At noon 121 miles from Tulagi.About 4 P.M.we sighted Guadalcanal, the southernmost island of the group."Sparks"in communication with Tulagi tells us that the"France"is not in nor is her pres- ent whereabouts known.Guadalcanal was an ominous looking plac its skyline showing dimly through heavy blue-black storm clouds;nevertheless a welcome sight.Saw a few sea birds(petrel) far off,an encouraging sign. September 8 We stayed up last night until the ship anchored in Tulagi harbor about 1:30 A.M.this morning.An exceptional piece of navigation and a lovely sight when we had hove to.Cooling breezes and a moon rather dispelled the terrifying conception we had conjured up about it.Tulagi itself is larger than anti- cipated,having two hotels(one White- one Chow).The B P store, sheds and employees buildings lie on a little island in the harbor known as Makambo.Across the spit from this are the main works- post office,govt.administration houses,and quite a shop- ping district,White and Chinese in separate localities. The first news we heard was as follows: item-two nights ago a chinese was murdered by a native boy following a rather serious dance that lasted over 48 hours the upshot be- ing that one participant is selected by the devil-devil to kill a man in his honor.The"Chow"just happened to be the one;item- a B P plantation manager up on Malaita slain with an axe by a native.

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(15) In regard to the "France" -concensus of opinion has it that she is working around the island of Ysabel (Bogota). She has not been in Tulagi for nearly 10 weeks and is expected back sometime. The 2nd engineer of the govt. vessel "Renandi" said he saw her three days ago off a place called Hivo on the east coast of Bogota evidently sailing toward Gizo. Mr. Laycock, a planter said he had seen her three weeks back in the Meringue Lagoon. All seem to be of the opinion that she is going to Gizo before returning here. Only the postmaster was at variance; he thinks she will return to Tulagi within a fortnight because Mr. Beck had given him that idea before he left. The plan is to go to Gizo and if she has not been there to wait; if she has been there, return on the steamer to Tulagi. This course of action reveals eight pounds excess in passage cost than if we had booked straight through to Gizo from Sydney. We may get a refund since they were bum sports at the office not to tell us while we were discussing the possibilities of both Tulagi and Gizo as points of disembarkment. We had a good look around the place, inquiring about the "France" from everyone. At the hospital we had word of Dr. Drown who stayed there 8 weeks or so with an island sore on his shin. The B P officials were very kind, Mr. McKaye, Mr. Scott, and Mr. Ferry. They helped us get all the information possible. All have great things to say about Mr. & Mrs. Beck and the rest of the crew. September 9 The postmaster Mr. Dicks sent a letter out that he happened to run across from Mr. Beck dated June 29 instructing him to send all July and August mail to Gizo and to hold any September mail; this indicates that he is returning to Tulagi which was Mr. Dick's previous contention. We got ashore in great confusion with more luggage than I knew we had; the 2nd steward gave us newspapers for Capt. Lang and "Splinter" King, a steward, some guitar and ukelele strings for the musical crew. Customs rates are unholy here - 100 % for guns, ammunition (except shotgun shells 12 1/2%; tobacco, etc. 12 3/4%. We put up at the Elkington Hotel in wonderful quarters. We can get some clothes washed and perhaps, do some collecting. Yesterday one of the boys gave me a starling which I can practice skinning with. September 10 Spent the morning getting settled. The result of th skinning exercise was one skin and some rudimentary experience. Tom Elkington, the host's son has promised to get me some birds. Preston Clark's insect-collecting outfit is excellent, so we can probably prove something while we are waiting. Through the courtesy of a gentleman in His Majesty's service, a commissioner from Suva, we are members of the Tulagi Club until the "France" arrive This gives us golf, tennis, or swimming whenever we want it. Over at Gavutu, a Lever Bros., station we heard little that is new about the "France". When we got back a B P recruiter from Malaita had come in the hotel; he thought the "France" somewhere near Cape Marsh on Guadalcanal 60 miles away and that Mr. Beck was undoubtedly coming to Tulagi before he went to Gizo. Mr. Hart, another planter left for his plantation. He is something of an etymologist having sent material to both the British and the Australian museums, and the American also; he has given Dr. Drown insects and land shells.

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(16) September 11 Left washing with a Chinaman.In the afternoon both of us started out armed with cyanide bottles and nets to try our luck with the insect kingdom of Florida Island.G.R.came back just before the rainstorm with specimens and I came back just after the rainstorm with specimens.Apparently these moonlight nights are too bright for Sphingadae;this is the second venture that has proved unsuccessful. Mr.Tait,the recruiter,and Mr.Johnson,the only man in the islands who owns an ice-plant(usually not functioning), visited the hotel and spun yarns until a late hour. September 12 Breezes keep us cool and comfortable.The reality of Tulagi is a paradise compared to the preconceived idea we had of it.No evidence of mosquitoes yet;the sleeping is great. In the morning we went over to Makambo to get our refunds from B P on our passage money.All the gentry of the place are busy sitting at court.Mr. Mckaye,B P's dock man is a motion picture enthusiast and intends taking 5000 feet of native life on the Solomons.Both G.R.and I collected in the afternoon.It is well to take things easy at first so that we can work up to the all day pull of the expedition.The bush is very interesting to the newcomer.We hope to send a shipment of insects to the Museum before the"France"comes in.She is still reported off Cape Marsh somewhere.It is against the law for us to touch any guns before we see Mr.Beck and secure permits. Mr.Johnson's ice-plant is actually in operation. September 13 Clean clothes and a bottle of iced beer from the butcher were the gleanings of the morning.The merchants in Tulagi(Carpenter,B P,etc.,)are only too willing to give us boxes for packing insects.We shall start going out twice a day soon;Mr.Johnson is going to take us on an expedition to the mainland of Florida Island.The part that Tulagi is on lies just across a little spit.Ngela is the native name for Florida.Reptiles are supposed to be well represented,lizards and guanoes. The possum here is called kandoro by native. We have decided not to have malaria;it is more convenient.No doses of quinine yet.They have a remedy here called Smalarina,an Italian product which is supposed to impart immunity to the taker if it is consumed with intermittent doses of quinine.Anyway this is one of the seasons when the disease is latent- Spring.Apparently the worst things in the way of affliction,acquired by methods both subtle and blatant,are the island sore and the centipede bite.The latter come out of their haunts in the evening-"the arrow that flieth by night".On this particular occasion we saw three of the brutes;one of the boys was bitten on the toe. We collected with some success all afternoon.The Sphingadae are still in the ground;rain will probably bring them out September 14 Collected a bit in the morning after packing the results of our previous experiments.According to the natives, insect life on Florida(Ngela)is not nearly as prolific as on Guadalcanal(Solomon)andthe larger islands.G.R.could not venture forth to-day having broken the shaft of his net."Tom"Elk-

(7) ington Jr.,the hotel-keeper's son took me on a guano hunt;the result was no guanoes but a brown pigeon and one of the numer- ous red parrots that inhabit the coconut trees,both badly shat- tered but serviceable for skinning practice.Also collected a few insects. Mr.Robinson,another plantation manager came in from somewhere on Malaita with no news of the"France".Mr.Johnson,the genial butcher from Yorkshire invites us shooting with him day after to-morrow and in addition promises ice cream.This life o of expectation is turning us into"softies".This was an evening for the centipedes again. September 15 Collected both morning and afternoon.Mr.Robinson invites us to spend a week-end at Berande,Guadalcanal and we accept;it will be an opportunity to visit the island and do dome collecting as well.Mr.Lazarus,termed"the wandering Jew", being the only Jewish recruiter in the group,sailed into port and came up to the hotel.He had many yarns and much profanity. It seems he has been having hard luck on Malaita."Tony"Olsen in the schooner"Myopa"also turned up.We set out for Berande at midnight in a calm sea. September 16 A six o'clock breakfast was had from the stove of Mrs.Dumfy(or Duffy),probably the only widow who lives by her- sel on Guadalcanal- a half caste.By noon we were at Berande. After kai-kai we were treated to a ride about the plantation, learning thereby the process of copra.This was once the habi- tat of Jack London and Martin Johnson.On either side of the manager's house is a fresh water river one of which is suppos- ed to have been explored by Mr.London.Apparently this whole region is contained in"Adventure".Gavutu is mentioned as the place where they drink between drinks.And there is nothing mythical about South Sea imbibing.Our host brought back a cop- ous supply and all hands were piped to consume it as rapidly as possible.That the practice of intermittent excess in drink- ing is a principal cause of fever and chronic apathy cannot be doubted.Two men without much aid from us consumed over a case of beer this evening.Mosquitoes were abundantly provided. September 17 Both of us collected along the shore and in among the palms and rubber trees.This Saturday was a great occasion for the native labor;a bullock(bullimacow)was killed and kai- kaid.Each boy has to cut three bags of copra per day and the week ends on Saturday noon.There are 50 boys on this planta- tion and they are treated like dogs;the manager says they have absolutely no sense of gratitude.The house boys and the"cookl" receive the worst of the lot. In the evening men arrived from up and down the coast including old Masher,who has been in the Solomons 23 years,the first man on the beach at Yandina,Cape Marsh,and Mr. Wilson,a high police official with 16 carriers out after the accomplices in a recent wholesale murder of police boys.I don't remember when I have seen more drinking. September 18 Collected as much as the heat and mosquitoes would permit.As on Florida the palms are haunted by cockatoos and

(18) red parrots.Also saw three fish hawks.The most profitable event of the trip was a ride to an out station called Teteri eight miles from Berende.On the way we passed through two na- tive villages,the latter being the scene of the tragedy of the "Albatross"in 1896,an Austrian expedition that met its fate at the hands of the forebears of this salt water tribe.Here I se- cured some photographs.But the sight of the afternoon was the great grass plain at the foot of Lion's Head,the highest peak in the island,never climbed by white man.About 5000 acres of fertile table land well stocked with kangaroo grass.It is the only one in the Solomons.Here we were able to gallop for a mile up to the station house.We returned by an inland govern- ment road passing through the thick bush at dusk.Saw many small birds that I could not recognize.At this evening's kai- kai there were eleven and Mr.Robinson reckoned himself the luckiest man on the coast.Hospitality here is code of every- one.At midnight we departed with many cheers and thanks for Tulagi;Mr.Tice,ex-manager of a place on Teti-pari,the lonli- est islet of all accompanied us.He is going south on the Ma- taram for a spell and back to England. September 19 Word of the"France"awaited us at the hotel in the person of Mr.Johnson,plantation owner from southern Bogota.She is definitely due in Gizo now to catch the Mataram.Mr.Beck spent three days with him in addition to picking up supplies and benzine.So we have picked the wrong course exactly in wait- ing in Tulagi.The problem now is to get to Gizo with all dis- patch.A Ghinaman very kindly offered us the charter of his ketch for 45 pounds which we gracefully declined.Our best bet is Bill Tait who was here at the hotel last week.He will be back from Malaita in two or three days and will pull out for Gizo immediately.If he fails the govt.vessel Renandi may go up by the end of the week after a spin over to Rennel.At all passes we shall leave on the first craft that starts in that direction.We sent a wireless to Mr.Beck that we would join him within a fortnight if convenient,and expect a reply.Sure enough in the evening word came from the Mataram from Faisi that the "France"was in Gizo;the steamer called there yesterday and will call back again to-morrow.We shall be able to take all mail of which there is a great amount and they will have time to pre- pare for us on board.Although we drew the wrong card we follow- ed the only piece of empirical intelligence we had in that let- ter which the postmaster sent out to us just as we were about to go to Gizo on the Mataram.If fare on the Awa or Renandi is as cheap as we expect there will be little excess in cost and we shall have sent some insects off to the Museum. We find that the guns and shells are tax exempt, coming under the provision for"guns or accoutrements of any recognized rifle club or public institution".No collecting was done due to our efforts to secure immediate passage to Gizo and the general confusion of unfinished business. September 20 Message from Mr.Beck came through B P at Makambo asking them how soon they could forward us and the mail for the"France".The wireless we sent yesterday should serve as an answer.Evidently the two crossed.To-day no collecting was done but two welcome contributions came in:one genuine sphinx moth and a huge specimen of an utterly unintelligible beetle.H.M.

(19) A.S.Sydney arrived at 4 to coal up and pay respects to the Re- sident Commissioner.Spent a pleasant evening with Messrs.Herit-age and Scrimgeour,officers of Carpenter Ltd.,with excellent repast and bridge. September 21 Collected in the afternoon,taking both net and ri-file proving thereby that two things cannot be done at once.Thi has been the hottest day we have had so far.H.M.A.S.Adelaide steamed in to join the Sydney.The place is swarming with sai-lors.No definite word yet about the Awa or the Renandi. September 22 Collected in the afternoon.Rainy and disagreeable. Band concert,cricket match and"a showing of the flag"on board the Sydney in the evening.We expect the Awa,our transport to Gizo and the Yankee schooner"France"early to-morrow.All the re-cruiters assemble for the week-end. September 23 Sent off a cigar box of insects to supplement the first shipment from Florida.The Awa came in about 8 A.M.lead-ing the Royal Endeavor,coming from Vanikoro via Malaita and the Ruana.Passage arranged with"Bill"Tait who expects to shove off by the 26th.We have tried for Sphingadae twice in the even-ing with no success.The Mataram steamed in late and we all went aboard where we heard much about the"France";the second mate had had a yarn with Dr.Drown and all the stewards had enjoyed Hawaiian music as rendered by the crew.Many of our friends on board said we were looking well which was encouraging.The ho-tel was the scene of quite a brawl endorsed by all the newly arrived sailor men.Captain Hall of the Royal Endeavor presented us with an owl taken on Vanikoro about a month ago,a speci-men skinned by the carpenter of the"France". September 24 Instructions from Mr.Beck were welcome.He advises us to do some collecting up on Florida via the river known as Malially.Three young ladies from the Mataram called on us for morning tea after which we collected for about two hours."Bert Johnson has promised us the use of his launch to go up the ri-ver to-morrow.The steamer sailed at 3 and Tulagi came back to normal."Bill"Tait is to be mate of the Renandi,so we shall get up to Gizo within five days. September 25 We went to the top of Ngela getting only two spec-imens;delay in starting pressed us for time.On the return the supply of benzine waned out and we"washied"over to Tulagi with the floor boards which had to be ripped up.The Ngela boys at a salt-water village refused to give us any kind of aid,prob-ably on account of the fact that the two boys with us were Ma-laita men.It was our first real trek into the deep bush and taught us a great deal.We got back to the hotel about 8,tired, wet,and hungry. September 26 G.R.collected insects in the morning while I made a miserable attempt at taxidermy on the two birds we shot on Florida.How many skins does one have to ruin before he turns out a decent job?I went over to Florida in"Bill"Tait's dinghy

25 redneqna ...[illegible]... 36 redneqna ...[illegible]... 37 redneqna ...[illegible]...

(20) after lunch with three of his boys.We tracked about three mile up to the top of a hill where we found a village.Here,one boy offered to take me where there were"plenty pidgin good fella", but the hour was too near kai kai time to go on.I saw over a dozen birds of about six species and had shots at four which took no effect.I am sure the shells used were defective in their charge.I have the usual difficulty of the beginner in seeing the birds when they can be heard.Mr.Beck wants speci- mens of a ground cuckoo and white headed pigeon.Both have been heard but not yet seen. September 27 Three of us went over to Florida,G.R.and"Tom"Elk- ington and had a dozen shots and very little luck- one black bird with yellow markings on the eyes and white stripes on the wings,quite common and a large eagle.Came across natives kai- kaiing a possum.Played bridge with Scrimigour and Heritage in evening and returned at midnight to skin the specimens. The practice acquired is about all they are worth. September 28 Collected with poor success on this little island of Tulagi.G.R.shot a parrot and a little swift.Both of us are fed up with this waiting. September 29 Collected on Florida returning six birds,four of which we skinned,giving two parrots to the boys to kai kai.A honey-eater,two warblers,and a large greenish blue bird,an in- sect-eater of some kind.We had two shots at the white-headed pigeon that Mr.Beck requires.We are working with .410 shot, which does not carry too well and is much too heavy. September 30 Heavy rain nearly all day with a shifting of wind. First indications of Spring in the Solomons.No venturing into the field to-day.G.R.read Schopenhauer,a great day for it.I tried developing some films in the evening.Captain Tate indi- cates that he will push off on the 3rd of October whether he gets word of his appointment or not.This inconvenience will not delay the expedition,I hope,since they can work around the Gizo district;we deserve the wait and an ugly passage up for our mistake in not going up on the steamer. October 1 Rain continued through the morning but allowed us to go out in the afternoon wherein we did very poorly.Took dinner with Lt.Commander Cruikshank of the Ranandi and his wife.He assured us that Tate would get us to Gizo by the 7th or 8th. October 2 Mr.Mackay of B P expected to take us on a day's trek this morning but the usual rain prevented.It stopped about ten o'clock having gone 259 inches in three days.I went out for a couple of hours before lunch on the small island and missed a few beautiful shots;also killed a little black bird with a red breast and could not find it.Both of us went to Florida later, taking the longest walk yet and having the worst luck.Bridge with Messrs.Heritage and Scrimigour in the evening both of whom said we were overdoing it by rowing a dinghy across to N'gela in the sun and followed with a long and lugubrious but

(21) dispasionate harangue about the dangers of these parts and all the fever that wasteth white mankind. October 3 More rain with a spell in the afternoon that let us venture for a couple of hours. I brought in nothing; G.R. got three. The Ranandi blew a cylinder-head and is delayed another day. Caught another sphinx moth of the same species that we have been getting. October 4 Ranandi sails at noon and the Awa will leave to-morro morning. Collected both fore and afternoon bringing in a half dozen specimens- one "koro koro" pigeon and a small hawk; in the evening we skinned two birds each, a record turn-out. All set to shove off in the morning. October 5 Out of Tulagi bag and baggage at 10:30. It was a great moment. Outside of Savo we rolled to big swells from the SE, the last of the regular monsoon. Beautiful night but rough sleeping. I was sea-sick to the point where I was forced to expel the contents of my stomach. October 6 Shot a brown gannet on the wing about 15 miles from the Bili passage on New Georgia; and then jammed the barrel of my gun with a pull-through. Anchored off Bili village, a 7-day advent conquest; the passage leads into the Marovo Lagoon on the SW. Here we spent the day, delightful swimming and a good rest. The worst of the sea trip is behind us. October 7 Pleasant passage to Mongo passage in the Marovo by way of Lili Hina where the 7-day advent outfit hath its head- quarters. Here we had lunch (on board) and tried to pick up a native to pilot us through a shorter passage. Failing, Captain Tate carried on to the aforementioned anchorage where we put in another fine evening, with swimming and extraordinary kai on a freshly caught fish. All shaved in which I featured by throwing the captain's razor over board. Have seen plenty of terns and petrels. Many birds could be heard at night in the Marovo, in particular some kind of a night-fowl with a raucous staccato cry. October 8 Arrived at Hamarai Plantation in Ramada Bay about 11 o'clock- a Mr. Newall the manager. His wife gave us two excel- lent meals with fresh meat. On Hamarai (Hameri) they have a num- ber of blue and white herons according to Mr. Newall the only representation in the group. This good man provided tools suf- ficient to ram out my clogged gun. The entire evening was spent in a heated argument drawing all the masculine indulgence as to the function, ordnance, and capabilities of patent and com- mon logs. Plenty of rain knocking about. October 9 (Sunday) Out of Ramada Bay by 9 A.M. and steamed without mis- hap to the Diamond Narrows, passage into the Rubiyana Lagoon. Tied up at the wharf of Naru estate on Arundel Island. No one about until about 9 P.M. when Mr. Sims returned from Kokeqolo, the headquarters of the Methodist Mission. He reported the

"France" at Gizo on the word of the "Konakarra", Lever's steamer which called yesterday. Also said there were two from the expedition collecting on Kulanbangra, a small island of remarkable altitude. Have seen many species of salt-water birds; the bay is full of fish. Spent a quiet evening with the mosquitoes. October 10 The run to Gizo is 60 miles. Left Arundel at 7 A.M. and made it by 1 o'clock ahead of some bad weather. Saw flocks of terns and petrels feeding on shoals of fish. Quite a common sea-bird here is called the "bellama"- supposed to be some prognosticator of weather; like a gannet, long, forked tail and motionless flight. During the morning we had a good view of Kulanbangra's summit where Dr. Drowne is at work. In Gizo the "France" is expected to-morrow afternoon. Instructions for us are to wait. G.R. spent the night up at B P's staff quarters, I on the Awa where plenty mosquito, he stop. October 11 Ariel Cove - Kulambangra I. Solomons Four of the crew of the "France" were sent over to Gizo in the long-boat to pick up news about our arrival; so Captain Tate kindly decided to run us across the bay. The Awa left after lunch and by 2:30 we were on board the elusive schooner. Mrs. Beck and Dr. Drowne and Captain Lang welcomed us. All hands were tickled to get their mail. Mr. Beck, Hicks, and David, the cabin boy were up on the mountain at camp. Spent the afternoon getting settled and a very pleasant symposium which lasted until midnight on board the Awa, "Bill" Tate and Dr. Drowne among those present. October 12 Collected up the river that empties into this cove A.M. in search of the little rare, blue kingfisher; returned for lunch and helped "Doc" with some carpentry. Collected along the shore P.M. I took one long-tail as it is called, Mr. Beck thinks a kind of ground cuckoo, of young plumage (brown) and a shriek. Doc gave valuable instruction in bird-skinning after supper. October 13 Collected all day until 3 o'clock along the trail up the mountain. I took two black-heads. Manuel, who left for the camp on top yesterday to tell Mr. Beck of our arrival, came down with 6 or 8 specimens; what with the work of Doc and G.R. we got up from the work bench about 10:30. October 14 Another day in the bush. Returned about 4. I took one gray fly-catcher, brownish-red breast, and a common dove-the green, scarlet-throated fellow called "koro-koro" by the natives of N'gela and Guadalcanal. Mr. Beck came down the mountain during the morning and informs that we are all through on top. After kai-kai Mr. Beck went out in the dinghy after terns and shearwaters, the latter passing on their migration from Alaska or Siberia, etc., to N.Z. or Australia. Only the rare kingfisher to take and we shall pull out to Vella. October 15 I helped prepare birds in the morning while Mr. Beck went after the little rare kingfishers, returning with three, each different. Heaved anchor after lunch and coasted to Sand

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(23) Fly Inlet, six miles northward where it was decided to spend the sabbath, our first on board. Apparently this day of rest is the only available time for note-typing except while at sea. Mr. Beck went out in the dinghy after shearwaters and brought back grey-backed and bergi terns two of which fell under my scalpel. Both G.R. and myself already notice the effect of the coaching provided by Dr. Drowne and Mr. Beck; Hicks is also very helpful. It is remarkable how much one can pick up just by watching the operation of these three. All the birds we took in Tulagi and carved up so deftly will be sent on to the Museum; one little hawk has not been taken yet by the expedition. The Vanikoro owl given us by Capt. Hall of the "Royal Endeavor" proved a welcome addition. At this anchorage birds sound more plentiful than at Ariel Cove. The long-tail, honeysuckers, white-eyes, parrots, wag- tails, and kingfishers are heard with the usual nocturnal frog serenade. I have commandeered the hammock under the boom for sleeping quarters abetted by a poncho to aid the leaking awn- ing; here I can appreciate these olfactory offerings of our fea- thered friends. October 16 Wrote letters and notes before lunch and then got ou the water-colors, making a rather questionable reproduction of a parrot and a much more plausible one of a kingfisher. Mr. B took some photographs and developed them soon afterward, the on- ly safe method down here. I decided to use up the rest of the exposures in my camera since they can be developed on the way to Vella Lavella. Wrote notes in the evening on Kulambangra, lit- tle as I have been able to observe. Conversation with G.R. and the Doctor on interesting topics until a late hour. Kulambangra I. lies at Lat. 8 S. Long. 157 W. and is near- ly circular in shape. From N to S it measures approximately 18 miles and E and W 14 miles. The coast is quite regular and shows a number of fair anchorages for small craft; it's margin is en- crusted with fringing reefs, many of the coves being sheltered by coral barriers. It is the last island of the group that was completely surveyed by H.M.S. Penguin in her trip of 1893-5. The central volcanic peak rises 5200 feet and extends in razor-back formation N and S for about 5 miles; the principal drainage runs in the opposite direction down numerous ravines that cut the main ridge of the mountain. The contour lines have a much more rapid rise to the mile from the S. than from the N., the latter end of the island showing the smoother topography. Red clay is present above 1000 feet while the lower soil is chiefly volcan- ic buff and coral rock. Birds are more plentiful and vary more at the higher altitudes. Mr. Beck and Hicks found a rare species of thrush, pigmy parrot with red breast and blue markings, and yellow-bibed doves above 2000 feet. Thickheads. bald fly-catch- ers, blackheads, black and brown fantails, white-eyes, and honey- suckers range over the entire island. This is true of the lar- gier birds like parrots, paroquets, long-tails, and the red-knob- bed and gray pigeon. Shrikes, wag-tails, swallows, and swifts pre- vail nearer the shore and especially around swamps just inside the mangroves that line the immediate marge. The brown ground dove is quite common here; natives have captured a few alive for Mr. Beck. The ordinary kingfisher may be heard anywhere along the coast bothe the brown-breast and the white-headed; the little red- billed fellow and the blue-headed variety frequent the rivers and have been taken at high altitudes. Plovers, bittern, and the blue heron are common along the reefs. The mina as usual whis-

tles gaily.In addition to the pigeons mentioned Mr.Beck has taken a number of birds similar to the red-knobbed and common gray but showing white throat and white head.These do not stay up high like the yellow-bib,one or two having been shot near the ship.Kulambangra boasts only a few salt-water villages,having been depopulated by head-hunting marauders from Choiseul and principally New Georgia;the pickininnies were taken in slavery.There are perhaps a dozen villages,having perhaps 100 inhabitants.Mr.Beck had found trading for fruit or vegetables slack and has not used natives in the bush.Fish,limes,yams,and pineapples have been procured.The men are 7-Day Advent converts and appear apathetic.Those who brought the ground-doves received enough to pay their yearly tax which is about their only concern.The meris do all the work both in the garden and around the house,so the masculine worries are few.They do not use tobacco or betel nut as forbidden by the Mission.The villages reveal nothing startling in the way of arts of life. Yesterday morning Mr.Beck went after the little king-fisher returning with three,each of a different marking.He was forced to remove his trousers(pants)to chase one in among the mangroves.In the afternoon he collected sea-birds in the dinghy- sooty terns,several of which G.R.and I skinned under excellent tutelage.Toward evening I saw many plover and cormorants. All planting on Kulambangra lies at the N.end where the ground is most level;Lever Bros.are the owners. October 17 Mr.Beck up at 5 A.M.and out in the dinghy after shear-waters,which escaped him;he shot several sooty terns.After breakfast G.R.Hicks,the Doctor,and I collected near the shore tak-15 birds in about two hours.I shot a red and green paroquet,two minas,a white-headed hawk and a honey-sucker.Birds seem more plentiful here than at the Ariel anchorage.Mr.Beck shot another brace of little kingfishers,Hicks two more,making six of different markings taken in two days in this vicinity.Previous to Kulambangra only one or two had been collected on Guadalcanal.Insects,small fish,and crabs were found in their several stomachs.Prepared birds for an hour before lunch and for most of the afternoon,turning out three skins,a phenomenal number for me.After supper raised anchor and stood out for Vella Lavella,failing to gain the anchorage and lay to during the night. Another color sketch of the little blue and white kingfisher turned out much better.Weather generally fair with short rain squalls.Temperature in the cabin approx.85.David had a touch fever to-day.G.R.and I have started on quinine. October 18 Dropped anchor at the Methodist Mission station Vaitasoli located on the SE coast of Vella Lavella,Rev.Bensley in charge.The native village on the salt water numbers about 200. This mission operates a good-sized coconut plantation in cooperation with its religious work- with some profit since labor is free.Mrs.Beck found feminine companionship with two ladies who live at the station.Mr.Bensley gave us a fine boy to guide us cross country.He took us inland to a lake- the Doctor,G.R., and I,but we found it quite devoid of the expected bird life excepting the omnipresent parrot.Its name-Kola Kola and is perhaps 3/4mile wide being nearly circular.It lies on the NW side of the island only 1/2mile from the salt water;its level is that of the sea and the taste proved brackish.We could hear long-tails and saw two red-headed hawks.Returning the Doctor took a young green heron on the shore which we had to follow for two miles

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(25) The best hunting proved to be on top of the ridge that we had to follow to reach the lake.Here we found a new species of white-eye,yellow bill and yellow and white breast which is close to the Gizo variety,bald fly-catchers of new appearance; also the striped gray-bird,and honey-suckers,black with red on the tail;the long-tail shows an occasional light feather in its tail.We saw few pigeons or doves except the red-knobbed and gray;the Doctor spotted a couple of white-headed doves on the wing.Bothe he and Hicks picked up a snake apiece,both new and one poisonous according to the demonstration given by the native.He indicated that venom from its fang made

26.) yams, plantanes, and sweet corn, a remarkable product. The last- named is the first Mr. Beck has encountered in the islands; evi- dently introduced by a missionary. There are very few natives up in the bush and such provident husbandry is not typical of the salt-water man. October 20 Five of us ashore resulting in about two dozen birds. Mr. Beck went to the top of Kela bringing in a new variety of thickhead and one yellow-bib dove. I went up about 1000 feet and secured six birds, one a new and interesting kind of black- head, marked with brown, and a pigmy parrot. Mr. Beck anticipates much good material here. Hicks shot two of the little river king- fishers and G.R. one. White-eyes are proving difficult to get, they move about so lively and when shot very hard to find. For the lat- ter a native is especially helpful in the bush. Doctor went to the top of the ridge and brought down among many specimens a new snake; also a very interesting exhibit of native twine made from the liana vine. The young plant is stripped of its bark and the hemp-like fibre combed out; this is twisted into cord that is used for fishing principally. For anything ordinary the native uses raw green vine, making an excellent bundle out of large leaves. This he uses to carry anything perishable. By an extenuated demon- stration the Doctor managed to communicate the idea of possum to one of the boys who savvied immediately and declared that "plenty he stop along bush". He and his mates were admonished to catch as many as possible. The expedition has already sent some specimens to the Museum, so my enthusiastic intentions about bag- ging the rare marsupial for Dr. Raven have already been fulfilled. Out they came after kai to trade vegetables, fruit, tortoise shell, and some curios, as ethnological articles are popularly termed. G.R. brought out everything he had to offer and was really dramatic in his business of barter. The men are of the salt-water with a 7-Day Advent froth. Most of them ignore the taboos of the order, using tobacco and betel nut freely. They are very dark-skinned and small of stature; not as many as usual showed scars from tinea and other skin afflictions. This particular village has a reputa- tion among the nearby whites for industry and health, most of it taught them by the missionary. Such things as seed corn are cer- tainly introduced by the white man. The meris and pickininnies of missionized settlements are not inclined to run for cover when approached by a white person as is characteristic of the more ab- original natives. A wreath of amazed black faces framed the hatch of the hold while we were skinning; no doubt many of the more sophisticated understand when we tell them that America like to look along pidgin that stop on the Solomons. But the majority think us quite "cranky" (nutty) and therefore treat us with delicate con- sideration. October 21 A day not tobe soon forgotten. Reached the top of Kela about noon where birds were plentiful, but I missed more easy shots than ever before. Took two thickheads and a pair of female bald fly- catchers finally. The climb near the top is rough, thickly wooded and serrated with small ridges that eventually lead up to the main ridge where the trail is located that goes to the bottom. I got off completely on the way down chasing little kingfishers of which I secured two in a small tributary drainage. Spent a half hour looking for the last one and then found myself completely lost after finding it. By this time it was too dark to undertake a systematic recovery of the trail, so I came down with the drain- age, sliding and scraping over rocks and boulders. I described some splendid arcs and came to halt on a large flat rock upon which

(27) I fully expected to spend the night. But the boys in the crew did not desert me and I soon heard hooting and gun shots that lost no time in finding my stout bellow. I got back to the ship about 7:30 much the worse for wear and thankful not to have to spend a night in the bush because how it did rain before morning. October 22 Yesterday's ordeal made me feel unequal to the climb so I collected northward along a shore trail that took us a mile up in the bush. We picked up two natives who took us to a patch of trees that seemed full of birds. In addition to bald fly-catchers each of us took a female gray-bird, new to us from this island. I also shot a brown fan-tail and three white-eyes. The Doctor took a wag-tail to look for possible variation. In all we brought in 20 birds. G.R. reached the top of Koomba, a smaller mountain to the south of Kela where he found thick heads, honeysuckers, white-eyes, and fan-tails. It is remarkable how scarce the blackhead is on Ganonga; we have only taken one as yet that does show considerable demarcation from the Kulambangra type. This and the yellow-bib dove are the special desiderata here. There is supposed to be a black cockatoo on this island and Vella Lavella as well according to the yarn of some plantation owner. It has not been seen. The long-tail, malau or megapode, and the ordinary red-knobbed and gray pigeon thrive; and the usual parrot and paroquet. For so small an island the fauna is most abundant. Not only the birds but mammals, reptiles, land-snails, and insects are various and plentiful. Three snakes were taken to-day and in the evening natives brought three more on board; there were also six or eight giant frogs and five possums. The latter are very docile for the natives catch them simply by feeling about in tree holes with bare hands. This will give Dr. Raven a good series of the Solomon Island phalanger. The fine yield of the gardens make our dining table resemble a sort of Arcadian feast what with five kinds of vegetables. The natives are eager to trade but are very shrewd depending on one who "savvies too much" for advice on a bargain. G.R. and I spent our time on the possums while Mr. Beck and the Doctor ran out the birds. Two possums were left for to-morrow. October 23 Skinned possum in the morning. After lunch we went ashore to take luxurious bath in the big stream with germicidal soap. I took some photographs around the village. The Doctor performed a neat piece of surgery on one of the old men who had a hand badly infected with blood-poisoning. The courage of the ordinary native under pain is phenomenal; all his relatives and friends stood about exhorting him not to flinch. Returned to the France to write some notes; made a water-color of a kingfisher which in the process of drying was relieved of all its exquisite gamboge by the flies. October 24 Mr. Beck, Hicks, and I climbed the mountain and ran into nothing but rain in torrents. Hicks and I built three makeshift leantos at successive stages of the journey for shelter. My partner is an excellent woodsman as well as an experienced bird-hunter and skinner of the Beck school. One can learn much by watching him. I took very few, a fan-tail, two blackbirds, and a pigmy parrot. Both Hicks and I think we heard cockatoos. The white species is certainly not present or we should have seen it. Hicks claims he saw one of the black ones fly; it could have been anything. While we were getting wet up top the Doctor was busy collecting 28 birds lower down where it rained very little. I took a large lizard on the way back of which only one other like it

(29) has been taken in the islands.Hicks found a nearly fully devel oped embryo of a phalanger lying in the trail which may prove of interest.The Doctor has taken a host of land-snails from Ganonga as wellas from other islands.Insects we pick up whenever we can. Mr.Beck is a good hand at picking them up.To-night four more phalangers came aboard as well as a number of frogs and another snake.Of the possums Mr.Beck tried to keep two alive from the last batch without success;the Doctor thinks they died from con- cussion having been thrown down the hold with their feet tied. Two of the new lot,very young,were put in a cage and ought to stay in good health. Native names for fauna on Ganonga I.(probably New Geor- gia dialect): red-knobbed pigeon - koora-borra gray " koora-kau long-tailed dove - sakondali long-tail - mau ground-dove - buti bald fly-catcher - sec.sec unbangra blackbird - ninduko white-eye - nala med.sized kingf'er - pipi red-billed " shinga pigmy parrot - kori korioriga thickhead - wekto watto megapode - kao possum - gondoil flying fox - lau frog - bakarau big snake - kuto small snake - ungakoru October 25 G.R.and I reached the top by steady climbing by noon. I took care to cut a trail where the right going is dubious near the top.Heavy rain harrassed our collecting but I managed to get one yellow-bib dove,cherished by Mr.Beck,and a brown fan-tail. This dove is found only at altitudes above 2000 feet according to Mr.Beck.The ground dove,long-tailed dove,and both the red- knobbed and gray pigeon are found everywhere there are nygali nut trees,which means practically the entire island.We have found whole nuts of the nygali in the crows of pigeons;it is quite a bit of chemistry for their stomachs to digest the shell of the nut since it takes at least two hard blows with a large rock or hammer to crack one.The meris prepare them with great skill and regularity using two blows to each nut.The nut is placed side- ways on a flat rock for the first blow and one end for the sec- ond;then the nut is taken out intact within its fine inner skin. Thickheads are found here only above 1000 feet.(According to the aneroid the topmost altitude registers 2550 feet).White-eyes and blackheads,the latter being scarce here,seem to be more plenti- ful the higher one goes although they may be collected anytime along the shore.The coup de grace scored when I shot the yellow- bib came to speedy retribution the further I proceeded down the mountain.I found myself very badly lost with nothing positive ex- cept the direction of the France by my pocket compass.So down I came as before with the drainage,almost a part of it I should say, crashing through the bush and tumbling down creek bottoms.I was soon well bruised by the rocks and lacerated by thickets of bram- bles.One in particular known as"the lawyer vine"is the most devil- ish botanical device for annoying mankind.It grows up from the ground in long,green stalks about 2inch thick and covered with

.29) tough thorns;these bend over about head high and send out fern- like leaves also equipped with spikes nicely camouflaged;finally from the tip of the leaf there is a long trailing vine of thorns that attaches itself to any nearby plant or tree and the barrier is complete.To the cursory eye one looks quite harmless so that the amateur continually blunders into them;once hooked it is a situation that patience alone can alleviate.At last I found the trail nearly half way down the mountain.I followed it with all despatch but darkness caught me about 500 yards from shore and I was once again hung up until the welcome shout of David reached my ears.Thus I lost four hours of good hunting and caused the boys some inconvenience;but experience lighteth the way for only one person.I shall use my bean more in the future I hope.Mr.Beck now advises taking some sticks of solid alcohol into the bush so that one can make a fire and some kind of a camp.The worst feature in spending a night in these forests is the fact that we are invariably wet through when we come out often lacking dry shells to fire as a distress signal,and matches.Other birds ta- taken to-day,few in number were thickheads,brown fan-tails,and white- eyes;Mr.Beck took another yellow-bib,making three from Ganonga. The Doctor and Hicks spent the day at the skinning table finish- ing up yesterday's birds and the phalangers.The black cockatoo is still a myth as far as we are concerned.Another large snake and some choice centipedes were added to the collection by the natives.Mr.Beck found the nest of a gray pigeon with both eggs and fledglings;after photographing he caged the two young birds. The green and the red parrots and paroquet as usual are here in considerable number.At Kulambangra the rare kingfisher was reason- ablely hard to find;here they seem to be about the streams in the woods for anyone to shoot.In three days we have collected 6 with- out hunting them in particular.His call is much shriller than that of the ordinary kingfisher and is especially noted after rain.One usually finds him sitting on an open perch where he can fully realize the excellence of his voice.Rain squalls during the night disturbed my rest in the hammock under the boom;twice I have been rudely dumped out of a sound sleep upon the steering gear.I expect to rig up something permanent when we get to Gizo. October 26 Raised anchor at six and stood out on a SW course for Narovo I.,spending the morning writing notes and drying clothes. The France covered the 20 miles by 11 o'clock under power and Mr. Beck lost no time in going ashore to see Mr.Pohlson,the only white man on the place.He operates a copra export station and trading store on shares,the owner being Ike Green of Gizo.The anchorage is very fine on the NE side of the island well protected by a long barrier reef where hosts of terns nest- sooty,noddy,and sumatra. Narovo I.is 4 miles long and not over a mile wide in any part.A much smaller island,Simbo,which gives the little group its pop- ular name in these parts,is separated from its NW coast by a very narrow and shallow passage.Quite phenomenal thermal action arises along the shore of the larger island making the water between the two warm and in some spots boiling hot;it is fed by fresh-water springs and provides fine sanctuary for megapodes which lay in a large colony along the sandy shore.Some dig down to a depth of 3 feet to deposit their eggs which incubate naturally and quickly with the warmth generated by the earth.A similar colony was de- scribed in connection with Savo and on the E coast of Guadalcan- al near Berande I remember a megapode colony where the natives gambled on the amount of eggs laid in the various holes.The pop- ulation of the two islands numbers nearly 1000 according to Mr. Pohlson.The people are very dark and short of stature typifying the western Solomon Islander.

361 About half are missionized by the Methodist;there is a Samoan Mission on Simbo which controls the largest salt-water village. The boys of the crew had a happy visit with their countrymen. The best accomplishment of the Missions apparently is in teaching the natives new arts of agriculture and domestic life.Thus numerous Polynesian methods of basket and mat weaving have been introduced by the missionary on Simbo.The planting of sweet corn and beans on Ganonga was the result of imported teaching.Narovo boasts of many domestic fowls which with the megapodes supply plenty of eggs;they can be purchased in any of the villages,5 for 1 stick of tobacco.The men of the salt-water near Mr.Pohlson's house are just finishing one large canoe that will carry 24 persons.The task has already taken four years and represents an art that is rapidly disintegrating since the old men no longer trouble to teach the youth such ancient accomplishments.There are very few mosquitoes at this anchorage but their absence is compensated by the number of flies probably caused by the presence of so many natives the majority of which are very uncleanly in their habits. Flies carry the diseases of the skin that afflict the blacks;and here in particular a number show bad cases of granulated eyelids. By noon Mr.Beck,the Doctor,Hicks,G.R.,and I were in the field.I picked up a salt-water man named Doti who took me up a trail like the side of a house since I told him I wanted to go up.We went up about 800 feet and I shot 3 bald fly-catchers but could only find one since each dropped 20 or 30 feet below me.I was informed that a small crater lies at the top,extinct of course,but did not investigate.Coming down another trail not so steep I had a shot at an eagle hawk and took a broad-billed bluebird similar to the species of Guadalcanal and Florida.Reaching the shore I walked along the gov't road that leads across Narovo to Simbo I.,taking a wag-tail and a white-headed kingfisher.Green and red parrots and paroquets were common among the coconuts.All the groves here are native-owned;the copra is sold or traded to Mr.Pohlson.I waded over to Simbo where I heard minas,starlings,and pigeons but had no chances.Here I shall hunt to-morrow.Returned to the main island in a single canoe,a singular accomplishment for me.No one took a great number of birds;the Doctor had a number of fly-catchers, male and female.Mr.Beck returned a long,light brown snake.G.R.also got a bluebird.My guide invited me to inspect his house which lay just off the road on the way back.The neatness of the little settlement surprised me.Japanese clover made a fine green lawn all around, and the houses were all on solid foundations of rock.The meris looked very trim in bright lavalavas and were busily cracking nygali nuts of which my friend gave me half a coconut full.October and November is the nut season and one of their busiest since they put them up to last the whole year.The nuts are mashed and mixed with some unknown ingredients into a poi pudding;this is cleverly wrapped in a bundle of leaves and hung up to the rafters in the houses. The black boys came out to the France to trade fruit and vegetables bringing yams,bananas,and pawpaws;not to mention the rarer hen's egg.Most of them were fresh but Mr.Beck found a number of megapode eggs too much ripe with pickininnies testing them in water. An interested audience watched us put up birds.The session lasted until 10:30 but all the natives depart before 8 and one rarely sees one prowling about after darkness comes down over the land. October 27 Heavy rain squalls drove me to cover from the after deck last night;rain continued through the morning keeping us on board. The Doctor,Hicks,G.R.,and I went ashore after lunch.I made for Simbo as planned and took four bald fly-catchers,starlings,and a mina.The latter resembles the Kulambangra species but has a larger

(31) bill.At the salt-water village where the Samoan Mission holds sway I got three snakes which had been captured by the pickininnies.Two species represented,neither poisonous,one brown and red and the other grey and black.The village is enclosed in a stockade stoutly lashed with vines from four to six feet high and including in its scope the large garden of yams,bananas,and some kind of bean. Instead of putting me down immediately as"cranky"all were much interested in the purpose of all this catching of birds and snakes. One made bold to ask me very repectfully what we intended doing with"all this fella pidgin";I explained again how anxious all the people"that stop along America were to look along pidgin belong Narovo,because they no got this fella pidgin."On the shore I shot one of the common sand-pipers or waders and a golden plover. Returning through the woods where there were plenty of nygali nut trees and others of great height and foliage I heard the red-knobbed and gray pigeons,and the long-tail.The latter is called"mau" by the natives and is not plentiful.We have not taken any yet.The sound of the long-tail is unmistakable in two variations:the first and most excited call like a broken Klaxon automobile horn and the second a sort of low contented monody which sounds like the zooming of a big bullfrog.Narovo yielded no white-eyes nor cockatoos;lack of the former is particularly noteworthy with the flourishing numbers present on other nearby islands.It indicates as does the thermal activity that Narovo is somewhat younger than the others-the barrier reef is young compared to those of Vella Lavella,Ganonga, and Gizo.Here it is always out of water and harbours quite a tern colony.Mr.Beck visited the reef to-day bringing back sooty terns, noddies,and sumatra;he also took some photographs.Mr.Pohlson informs that the largest salt-water village still preserves its head house where one can see the remnants of cannibal days in a fine exhibition of dried heads and skulls.We were occupied with skinning again until after 10. October 28 Only the Doctor and I went ashore after breakfast to collect.Hicks and G.R. remained on board to finish left-over birds. I again picked up Doti who took me along the shore southward on the weather side.Ipana,his son also came along.Here in a saltwater swamp I found plenty of yellow honey-suckers and took four. They seem to like the low trees around swamps.Also shot two Tihitian swallows and two white-headed kingfishers.Reached the village on the point for kai and then proceeded by canoe across a little spit where mangroves made land travelling difficult to another peninsular.Hunting was excellent and I soon had a half dozen bald fly-catchers;missed the only brown fan-tail I have seen here.Picked up a bright green lizard and two large walking-stick insects.Having used all my shells I returned to the ship by direct overland route guided by an old man from the village.The number of well-preserved old men and women in this village surprised me;the old boys usually go about wearing grass sunshades over their eyes.I should call them outfielders hats.Many of the birds here are called names similar to those of Ganonga.The long-tail is"mau",and they savvy the red-billed kingfisher,"shinga";they say,"he stop along swamp."But none of us have seen any.The white-headed kingfisher is"kekeou" and the bald fly-catcher"avinjo";the name for the yellow honeysucker is so long I have forgotten it.The possum is again"gondui". All these words may be attributed usually to the bird's call as is usually the case with the kingfisher.Or they describe some notable physical feature of the bird or animal.The Doctor took both the brown fan-tail and the pigmy parrot so that the only desiderata seen but not taken are the eagle-hawk and the long-tail,though it is doubtful that the latter might vary.Probably the most common bird here is the gray pigeon;when not feeding in the nygali tree,they

(32) usually sit in large flocks in trees of little or no foliage.Since I returned earlier than customary Hicks and David with some insig- nificant aid from me were able to put up nearly all my birds.So the evening session lasted only until 9:30. October 29 Raised anchor at 6:30 and stood out on a NE by E course for Gizo running under power with a head wind from the NW.Reached port about noon and found many small craft awaiting the Mataram. We found B P's store a heap of ashes;it burned to the ground a week ago.Nevertheless Mr.Beck was able to buy many stores and the steamer will bring additional.En route we caught two fine fish- a bonito and another unknown thing but excellent kaikai.Capt.Voy brought the Mataram in at 9 o'clock,an extraordinary piece of sea- manship this passage being noted for its devious reefs.The sparse remains of the schooner "Montauk"of New York lies on the most dangerous of them and its wasted spars are now used as a marker. G.R.and I went on board and found the 3rd engineer who promised to make us two aux tubes to fit the 20 guage guns;this will be a great addition since the 410 shells have proven very ineffective. We also were able to weedle the mail out of the boy at the post- office and awoke everyone on board when we returned for letter- perusing,a most welcome pastime out here. October 30 (Sunday) Answered mail and wrote up my journal.Had lunch on board the steamer with G.R.,and it seemed bacchanalian;I can remember how we disparaged the steward dep't.of the Mataram on the trip up to Tulagi.A quiet evening of writing was interrupted by a sudden squall that caught us unawares and carried the France well in toward shore before we could get the big anchor down.Most of the crew were ashore but all hands on board managed to get everything tied down and the ship came head around when the big hook caught hold.We were inform- ed to-day of a very serious outbreak on Malaita.Two district offi- cers and nine police boys killed at Serengo passage back of Heuru. Mr.Bell,who has been on Malaita over 20 years and Mr.Lylies,an Ox- onian were the white men.They were collecting taxes from the bush men;there were about 100 of them.In addition to the nine police boys killed,six were badly cut up and are in the Tulagi Hospital. A punitive expedition is out after the malfactors at the present time and H.M.S. Adelaide standing by.This is the climax of many murders and smaller revolts on plantations employing labor from that particular bush district.Things should be settled by the time the France starts on Malaita. October 31 Typed notes and answered mail practically all day.Mr. Beck busy straightening out accounts and getting more supplies. Mr.Booth ,the manager of B P's will deliver our steamer cargo to-morrow morning.After shipping some birds and other material and securing the aux tubes we shall return to Vella Lavella,per- haps to solve this mystery about the black cockatoo.

(33) November 1 The steamer came in early and shoved off for Tulagi and Sydney at 11, taking all our mail which has kept us busy for the past two days. Mr. Beck sent a few small boxes to the Museum by par- cel post. I got letters of to Drs. Murphy and Sanford. Helped a bit with the stores after lunch, purchasing a lot of stuff for myself including 12 sq. feet of waterproof canvas for a hammock awning. Af- ter evening kai the most estimable Rev. Tutty and his colleague Rev. Peacock came aboard from the A V Melanesia, the official 7-Day Ad- vect craft; they rigged up a benzine magic-lantern aft and showed 100 slides, many of exceptional interest, dealing with native life and missionary work on Vella Lavella, the 7-Day stronghold, Bougain- ville, New Georgia, and Malaita. Rev. Peacock, by the way assisted in the burial of Mr. Bell, the recently murdered D.O. of Malaita. In 12 years this mission has made remarkable progress; starting on Vella Lavella they have used natives extensively in propagating their doctrine on other islands. Problems of health, sanitation, and educa- tion were undertaken first (after the church had been built). They have no commercial interests like Rev. Goldie and his Methodist clan. Things of most practical value are taught the natives such as the cultivation of sweet corn and other vegetables. We were supplied with excellent garden products at Kumbakota on Ganonga where the 7-Day station was originated and has always been operated by natives. The ethnology of the exhibit proved very interesting. Head-houses, burial biers and crematoriums, canoe-houses, and heathen ornaments were shown, all revealing sun and moon worship which brings to mind Dr. Fox's "Threshold of the Pacific" and its thesis, based on ethnographical re- search, that Egypt was the original migratory center for the Solomons. According to Rev. Tutty, who appended many remarks, the natives them- selves do not realize that they worship the sun and moon. Its prin- cipal significance to them is tradition and regard of ancestors, all of which amounts fundamentally to ghost-fear. The only elements of this culture they can understand and trace are their totems. The sto- ries of their origin as a people from some bird or fish are handed down by mouth and tattooed on their bodies in many cases, so that the whole constitutes a primal folk-lore. Why the pyre of a funeral bier must be lighted just at sunrise is a mystery to them, the sig- nificance of the sun being disregarded; but the story of the shark that turned into a man or the woman who gave birth to an alligator, thus giving rise to a tribe, remains in original entity. Language is the first category of education. The missionaries have to work now in three distinct languages and eighteen dialects, the principal one of which is New Georgia. They teach reading and writing phonetically, acting on two principles: vowel following a consonant and two diph- thongs- ei and ae. The boys at Batuna in the Marovo Lagoon print and bind bibles and prayer-books for use anywhere that the 7-Day is es- tablished. In medicine they have done a great deal, all charitably. Members of the regular church in Australia, England, etc., give one- tenth of their incomes for the benefit of foreign missions, which is the first cause of the 7-Day advance. Of all the missions out here the French Catholic is the most respected by the white people; and of the Protestant, the 7-Day. The little lecture closed appropriately with a representation of the expected second coming of the Saviour. Mr. Beck showed our most interesting birds and acquired much information concerning anchorages around New Georgia, Bougainville, and Choiseul.

1927 (34) November 2 Ashore by 8 with the Doctor and G.R.Collected until 3 o'- clock,taking a dozen birds- white-eyes,bald fly-catchers,blackheaded flycatchers(white breast and reddish inside the mouth),and yellow honeysuckers.The white-eye here varies from the species found on Ku- lambangra,Vella Lavella,and Ganonga;the white-eye is not present on Narovo,nor is the white cockatoo,the latter also lacking on Ganonga. I mistook the black-headed flycatcher for the blackhead.The red on the inside of the mouth is not found on the same bird taken in the eastern Solomons.Finished skinning before supper and later enter- tained B P's Gizo staff and Mr.Griffiths,manager of Lever's planta- tion at Loga(Shelter I.).Gizo I.,is 7 miles long extending NW & SE and not over 3 miles wide at any point.The average altitude does not exceed 500 feet and the drainage is poor,mangrove swamps abounding. The interior is more densely wooded than is usual.Numerous small islets and barrier reffs lie to the SE of the anchorage making nav- igation very difficult.Two of the largest are Long I.,and Latitude I. Gizo is about midway between Kulambangra and Ganonga. November 3 Finished with stores by noon.The Doctor collected one gol- den plover and a turnstone in young plumage along the coral-reefed shore,disappointed in not finding yellow-legs as he thought he saw some yesterday.Weighed anchor and stood out on a SW by W course for Bagga I.,and the W side of Vella Lavella.Rain squalls and variable winds all afternoon.Caught one fine fish for evening kaikai.Passed Vic Pohlson of Narovo in a heavy rain and slipped him a tin of ben- zine.The France under power made Kumbakota anchorage,our former stamp- ing ground,by 6:30 where the sky cleared and the moon shone upon the rolling vessel in a sheen of mellow gold.Even Mr.Beck remained up on the quarter until after 11. November 4 Made Bagga I.,under sail with a stiff NW breeze by 1l A.M., dropping anchor off Binskin I.,the only charted anchorage on the is- land.Mr.Chaperlan operates a plantation on shares with Mr.Binskin,the owner of all Bagga.The wife and child of the latter were murdered by natives in 1909 while the master was off on a recruiting trip.Bagga I. lies 4 miles west of Vella Lavella at Lat.8-45 S.,and is 5 miles long N & S and approximately the same in the opposite measurement.The is- land is uninhabited by natives.The coastline is not shown on the chart but proves to be very irregular,fringed with reefs.Renard I.,lies a mile and a half to the north of Bagga and is not over 21/2 miles long; Fairway I.,a very small islet is just east of Bagga 1/2 mile at the en- trance to the Birskin passage.The highest point of the ridge that runs generally N & S on Bagga reaches approximately 600 feet.Extensive man- grove swamps skirt the shore about the anchorage.It was in the swamp that the Doctor and I hunted during the afternoon;G.R.,was also out. We collected over 20 birds.I shot 4 bald flycatchers,2 white-eyes,and a red-breasted dove.Other birds taken were the red-backed honeysucker, which proved to be darker on back and head than other species repre- sented;the white-eye compares with the type found on Vella Lavella, light yellow bill and yellow feet;the blackhead does not show the usu- al white ear-patch.Wag-tails,Bergi terns,and the bright mottled blue- headed kingfisher were taken,G.R.,and the Doctor each getting one.We did not take any blackheads on Vella Lavella during our short stay,but Mr Beck expects they will be similar due to its proximity.Other birds heard here are the common parrot and paroquet,long-tail,red-knobbed

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(35) and gray pigeon and the cockatoo.G.R.saw a striped hawk .The Doctor and I found all our birds in the vicinity of the mangroves;the king- fishers were shot on the salt-water.The white-headed type are plenti- ful.They seem to like the mangroves as a background for their perch on bare,dead timber.We climbed a little knoll 1/2 mile inland,finding no small birds but plenty of pigeons.We met a Malaita boy who is em- ployed by Mr.Chaperlan to milk the bullimacow and hunt pigeons for the family's kaikai.He had six of the red-knobbed koora-boras;I shot one gray koora-kau for him.He calls the white-headed kingfisher"ku-ku",ap- parently Malaita dialect.These Malaita men are certainly the most in- telligent and the most vigorous natives of the whole group;they furnish practically all the recruited labor for plantations,the population of Malaita being 50 or 60,000.Self-maintenance is difficult especially be- cause the bushmen are generally hostile to the salt-water men.The re- cently killed D.O. had acted as peace-maker between the two for many years.They are much lighter than the people of the so-called western Solomons- Bougainville and Choiseul.They cling to tradition and custom, refusing to be missionized to any extent;the Catholic and the 7-Day have accomplished a little.One can always tell a Malaita man by his color and by his tattoos;these show on his cheeks and around the orbi- tal ridge,the latter being rows of dots;the cheek sometimes shows a star(Bena).Across the chest is found the totem,a bird or more often a fish,occasionally flowers and leaves are the pattern.Generally a name completes the array,designating a particular tribe or family.The totems are a much more general classification.In the western Solomons,in the islands recently visited like Ganonga and Narovo the men have little or no tatooing.I have seen several cicatrices on the upper arm,one a fri- gate bird,evidently made by incision and rubbing in dirt.Malaita boys everywhere we have found them have shown interest in our quest for birds and recognize many species as representative of their island;the red- billed kingfisher is again shinga(or chinga), and the pigmy parrot-"sum- ba."After kai we put up birds in a heavy rainstorm that lasted until af- ter 10 P.M.,and gave us fresh water in every conceivable receptacle. November 5 Ashore with the Doctor and G.R.,shortly after 7,Mr.Beck havi- ing gone off earlier in the dinghy.We landed below the mangroves in a little bay opposite Binskin I.,and climbed to the top of the ridge,find- ing surprisingly few birds.I shot one blackhead,a red-backed honeysucker, brown fantail,white-eye,and the usual brace or so of bald flycatchers. The doctor got three white-eyes among others and G.R.,a striped hawk. Mr.Beck fared much better hunting up to,the ridge nearer the southern end of the island;among his birds were 4 of the desired blackheads.Hicks also had one;he went out after lunch.Mr.Beck also brought in a white- headed hawk.George,the mate,failed to scare up any wild pigs on his ex- cursion into the bush for that purpose.The folks on shore here show the usual admirable Solomon Is.,hospitality,having entertained Mr.Beck at lunch yesterday and Mrs.Beck and the Captain at dinner this evening.A Mr.Risby of Savo is visiting the Chaperlan home at present.They send us out a couple of quarts of milk every day;with its aid Mrs.Beck baked a splendid cake which we enjoyed for three meals.The avifauna has not yielded us what it should have,the total being about 50 birds,but the Doctor has collected 10 or 12 different species of land-snails,and Hicks brought in a large snake last night,brown and white diamond pattern sim- ilar to one taken on Ganonga.No fangs were revealed but auxilliary teeth in the upper jaw.Mr.Beck put two scorpions into pickle.The monitor li- zard is here among the mangroves;the smaller lizards show nothing new. The insect kingdom has yielded us a few beetles,among them a lorngicorn.

(36) Pigs are supposed to be plentiful although none of us have seen any;we found a lot of mud holes on top of the ridge where they evi- dently wallow,in addition to"pig trails".These tracks are most use- ful to us where native trails are lacking;one finds them running along the top of a ridge so it can be followed with reasonable as- sumption that it will lead to the most gradual slope to lower ground. It seldom is a problem to get up a mountain;getting back down is the perplexing part,and in this the pigs are of considerable assistance. We were up from the skinning table by 9 P.M.,and glad for the Sab- bath to-morrow since all the field party are suffering from divers minor afflictions;the itch is shared about equally,an insidious ir- ritation about the ankles caused either by sand-flies or some kind of a"chigger"like those found in the southern U.S.,that burrow under the skin.Mr.Beck with his remarkably sturdy constitution and tough hide seems to fare better than the rest of us.I have a special dispensa- tion in the existence of a swollen lymph gland located in the left groin. November 6 Wrote notes and dabbled in water-colors in the morning. Mr.and Mrs.Beck were hosts to the people from Binskin.David has arisen from his bed of fever.After lunch the Doctor,Capt.Lang,and I rowed lazily over to Fairway I.,a distance of a mile from the ship.It does not measure over 100 yards in breadth and marks the end of a barrier reef that extends to Bagga on the West.Even on this little spot of land birds were plentiful:starlings,white-headed kingfishers,and red- knobbed(often called white-tailed)pigeons,plover were also seen.The Doctor and I took several photographs.The strong tide in Beagle Chan- nel made it a hard pull back and in this I made trouble for my swal- len gland.The swelling increased with added pain and stiffness and following kalkai came a dose of fever.The Doctor knocked this nicely with a 15 gr.dose of Calcium Iodide and I repaired to bed in a makin- aw shirt and a blanket. November 7 I remained on board on the Doctor's advice and the sanction of Mr.Beck.The fever subsided during the night but the groin is still stiff and painful.The rest of the field party- Mr.Beck,the Doctor, G.R.,and Hicks went ashore for the morning.I read and typed notes until lunch when they returned with about 25 birds.It took the France just about an hour to run over to Nyanga on Vella Lavella where Mr. McEachran(formerly referred to as Mr.McKechnie)operates a plantation. He came out immediately bringing Mr.Fuller who is a visitor and the same man who gave us the whole bullimacow when we stopped a day at Vaitasoli on the east coast of this island.He went ashore with Mr. Beck to show him some skull caves located nearby,the cenotaph of many native warriors.G.R.,and Hicks went out after pigs which again are reputed to be overrunning the district.The Doctor and I,aided by David, put up the morning's catch.Hicks and Mr.Beck brought back flycatchers (both bald and blackheaded),two white-headed kingfishers,and two brown fantails.No new birds were taken this morning on Bagga I.No pigs were seen or heard.We are anchored approximately at the central point of the west coast between two rivers;one on the South is supposed to flow in orderly fashion permitting navigation,provided one takes along a cross-cut saw and a brace of axes,14 miles from Mundi Mundi,a mis- sion station farther north.The other river on our North according to Mr.McEachran is navigable for a small craft 6 miles where it strikes

(2) neou evad an lo emon mpnonifk iu'tjnflo ed oj besocquae eue agit -liva yend erene aglit afd lo qod no sedon dum lo jol a bmoi ew;?he seau Joom eum axart' esent'."alird gic" od neijibbs ni,wollaw yifneb pnhutur modj emit ono,minkoaf ere alikrt evitan erenw an ou Iui -ae eldenonem nidw bewaIlot ed nso ji oe egbit a lo qod eni gnola mora renoi ot eocla lanberg rtaam edd od bael liiw ti jani noijguue ni at nwob mond gnikbeg,niaimuum e qu jeg of meldong a al moblen Jl consaizee eldenanlanoe lo ere agit eni aidt ni bas,"?aq gaikelvieg -dad eno not balg bne..H.4 Q yd eldat pniinixe eno moti qu erew eW stevib kool gnikettna era ytaeq blaih edd lla son'a worrom-ol liad -nii avoiobian ni,yilaupo inode berana ni dbri ait;anoijohlika zomim hnil enca no aelil-bnae yd rediile baunao solina eni juods notjatir j tebm wortud jani..H.U medtnoca edj ni bmoi esodi ekil"reghido"s ebili hymoi bne noifjuditance vbruja yidakranen eid niuw koodlun.nika -asneqeib faicoqa a evan I,ao lo Jaen enj nadi retted erut ou amoea Jiol eni ni bedesoi bnaig dquyi neilowa a lo enmeltaixe edd ni noit .diorv o tednevoM .gnikrom eni ni vrolpoe-redaw ni helddab bna sejon eforW iira nad bivau.nidenis,mort' elqgeq enj or etaoed erew bock.sml bna.mk bewor I bne,gnai.JudO,toxod end demui rejiA.revet lo bed aid mort soob Jl.qiha edj mort elim a lo eonjalib a,..l yawila of revo ylisaI reirrad s lo bne enid exram bna nihseerd ni aprey OOI revo ewasem jon lo joqa eldidf aidt no nevJ.JaeW enj no egga' of abnejxe jadd teer ser bna,axedali'gnik behsod-olnw,agnifnza:iu'tijneiq erew abrid bnai delT.nees oais erew revoliq,anoeqig(bellat-ejdw helleo nerto)beddomi mnH ebae'd ni ebii gnorda edt.adqartxojodq leteven koot I bna roJoocD Iowa yn rot elonont ebam I aidt ni bna kood liiq brad a ji eham ten bna saeniliia bna nlaq hebba dliw beaseroni gnillewa edT.bnaig nei plecin aidj bakoom roJoocD edT.revet lo eaob a emai iekikgniwolfoY rikem a ni Bed of beriveper I bna ebiboi mutislo to eacb.rg I s dliw .teunsid a bna Jnina wa y rednevoM ijonse edt bna ecivbs a 'roJoocD enj no brusod no benismen I lita ai niorg eni jud idgin eni gnimub bebiebna revet edT.koo.M lo of ,roJoocD enj,kcek -Mr.Beck -ytraq biefi edt lo taer edT.in'niaipnbs 'rift sejon hepyj bna basr I.gnikrom eni yof eronea jnew ekoh bne..R.C. nunb edt koot Jl.shoii SS moode dliw hammer vedt nedw homal litcu .dim eveny alfeval alfev no on agmat' of revo nui ob uood na juods jan( noijsemic a aeJssaeq(eindooiik).m an of lerrreter y(lermto)namionJem edj bna tockaiy a ai oiw neiflo?.m gnignirid yleisibennl juo enao eb ja yab a heggoda ew neni woommillud elodw edd ar evag on'nan emue .m dliw erodea jnew of.bnaiai aidj lo jasoo jene edj no ilosajiiV nam lo dqunome eni,ydrsen bedesoi aevsu llnxk eina mld woda ot koeS era nlaqa dolidw agiq teji'a juo jnew ekoh bna..H.O.evoiruw evijan ved yd bebia,I bna roJoocD edT.joirtjaib eni gnimurrevo ed of heduger nedotaevit koad judquod koeS.m bna ekaih.dotoe a'gnimrom eni qu juq prd owj bna,aredal'tgnik behsod-olnw owd,(beberibnald bna blud xnod) rew agiq oy.I egge2 no gnikrom einid nekej erew abrid wen ol.aliajmt' lo jnloq Iaxned eni ja ylesamixongda heychona ene ew.breesd lo nees of besocque ai nauod eni no eno;atavin owd neowted jasoo jaww,eni ola eentat eno behivovq,noifagiven gnijtlaneq notnait yiebro ni wolt -aim a.limM fbmuM moti'aellm #I,xema lo esaud a bna wee jwo-aemto a of gribxoeson jitroY mo no 'revlr iadjo edT.hiron tenl'msl neidaja nole neilade ai brode eelim o jtano llama a rot eldepivan ni nenvaodok.m

(37) the foothills of the numerous peaks visible from the ship.The high- est does not exceed 3000 feet and all appear to range along two ridges running generally N & S.We can see eight to the northward when it is clear;to the south there is visible a lower ridge,probably not over 1500 feet.The entire coastline on the Admiralty chart is lacking and the topography of the interior untouched.The 7-Day Advent Mission was first established on Vella Lavella and practically all the remaining inhabitants of the island,which are few,are under its dominion.The principal station is at Dobeli. November 8 Rain kept all of us aboard after breakfast.The Doctor advis- ed my resting the glandular leg again which has not yet responded to treatment.He opened what appears to have been a small infection on my instep;this may be the seat of the swelling in the groin.The Doctor, G.R.,and Hicks went ashore when the rain abated and Mr.Beck took the dinghy to reconnoiter the mouth of the large river.He brought back one of the rare little blue kingfishers,black-bib dove,brown fantails,white- eyes,two white-eared kingfishers(mottled blue head),and blackheads.The latter species here and the white-eye are similar to those taken on Bagga.G.R.,brought in a new variation in the thickhead.The white-headed kingfisher is common along the shore.This seems to be a good focal point for all birds;even the yellow-bib dowewas heard along the river, an altitude not over 50 feet above sea-level.Mr.Beck also added an eagle- hawk to the collection.Returning he found a beautiful kind of tree-orchid growing close to the bank and so brought a large sprig to photograph.It is a long green stem the flowers growing out in a spiral; they are a pale cadmium yellow dotted with black splashes and have five leaves in the calyx and a yellow stamen.Ordinarily there is no odor, but a faint but luxurious perfume is present in the early morning.Heavy showers hindered the collecting considerably.Mrs.Beck spent the day at Mrs.McEachran's house.I helped with the birds in the evening.No appa- rent change in my condition. November 9 G.R.,and Hicks ventured forth in the dinghy to camp up along the big river.Mr.Beck found two branches:the one going north is prob- ably the waterway to Mundi Mundi.They will be out until Saturday,the 12th.Mr.Beck developed a few films before going ashore to collect with the Doctor.My leg is a bit worse this morning and discloses the fact that all the trouble comes from the little sore on the instep;the poi- son from it has infected the whole lymph channel.It was the beginning of a real"island sore".I wrestled with the eagle-hawk all morning and developed a pack of film.In the afternoon I lay down with the bum leg elevated until the field party returned.The Doctor had a yellow-bib dove and a young blue hawk;both he and Mr.Beck took thickheads,black- heads,bald flycatchers,and two black fantails with a new variation in plumage.David went out about 4 o'clock but had no luck and much diffi- culty finding his way out.Mr.Beck allowed me to skin a red-throated dove,the first of my experience.After kaikai I retired on the Doctor's advice to rest the leg;absolute quiet is the best remedy,so I am re- signed to lying on my bunk until the business is finished and cleared up.I noticed that the sore on the instep looked ugly and soaked my foot in dilute Dakin solution.The groin is still swollen and painful so I shall bend all my diverse energies to recovery by simple direct action- to wit,inactivity. November 10 Lay on G.R.'s bunk all morning after breakfast,leaving it

(W.) - [illegible] -a R.qino edi nort eidiav anaq apotemon adz te alildjooi ed; gbit owt gnofs agney of 'neqqa lla bna feet 00C? Teboze Jon aoch Jas ti ji nono bnawt-on end oj inglo ess nas ev..& & W ylfareneg undimrr revo Jon vidndorg,ogbit rewol s eidiav of eteot dpox edi od;rewlo bna gnilof ol trens y'ferimba edl no onilfaco ortne enT.Jest 0CJi as polniK Jnevha yeD-Y ent.Nedonum reimeni adz to 'qpargogot end gnimenz edl lla yllso!comg bna alevol afley no beaifdence forT' end.nolimob adl nebnu ere,we't ene aoid',bnaler end fo alusidunli. .lledol as el nolteu feqoniu B redmevoi atvha rocoo ent.Jastlae-ed retna bzaoda ar to lla egud oti? of behnoqsan Joy Jon edd neldw ntapa yel valihmlsy edl gnifeer ya be yu no nolcoeni llama s neoc eved of erzeqqa tanw bonego ol.tnemisend ,rofooo adT.ntory edi ni gniffewa adz to Jese edi ed yan aido;qeiant edi xoot 'kheh.uM bna 'keada nist edi nerw erchan frex 'b'olH bna,..R.D no voad niguord el.revin eguel edz to dponm edd redionmeen of ylgmil idw,aliuunst nword,evoa dia-xoaid,erenalfgnik eunid afjil evat odi to 01.abeodicalH bna,(baed auld belston)verallyn'kx berse-einfu owd,aeye no nekad eacoz of valimta eme eye-oildw edi bnn eret nedeqqa redtai been-ajidw edT.baedzoinj edi ni noffartav wen s ni ddygrod,..R.D.egge8 lacot-roog a od ot ensea alri.evoae adl gnofa comcoo of 'redalgnik evin eid gnofs breded new ovob did-wolley edl neve;abuid lla ro' Jinop na behhe oala koo.tM.fevel-see evoda feet 0C nevo Jon abujilJa na lo bnik futiJused a bruoh en gniimderf.nolfeiloe edi of 'kwad -elgae of qinge egial s adguord os bna hund end of seola gninwyg bidno-eent nriqa s ni soo gninwng awsoit edi nora neery gnol a el ji.hqergoedq it eved bma aensliqa moald miiw bostoo wolley nutbep.aley s eta 'end 'yobo on of etods ylfenintQ.nemara wolley a bna xvi'no edi ni sevsol zen.gnimom yivee edi ni juesery al ou'vaq anojmxiJ juu Juist a jud a yah end Jneqa Ko6T.erM.yleasobfanoo gulreeloo edl barebnin arewoda -eqqa ol.gnineve edi ni ahid end diiw begled Y.eapon a 'nervision'.erM .nofidbuos' yu ni egudo JneY Q redmevoi mois qu qaso of ygnaih edi ni dmot berutnev aoliiH bna,..R.D -donq al djron gnlog uno edd:nednand owd lmwo't KoeB.rM.revir gld edi edi,yebwde8 litnu duo ed ilfw yori.ibm'M ibmi ot yawtetaw edi yida tiw joellon of eroras gnlog enoled amlit we't s beqofevad bce6.rM.djSi Jont end seao'leib bna gninwom eint oexow idd s al gei W.fofocD edi teo endtqeiant edi no erca ejjfil edi mort aeuea eidnors edi lla dnas gnimked edi saw Ji.fenddo lqny.l eloca end hapcein and ji mort doe bna gninwom lla kwad-elgee edi diiw beltaevu 1."erou bneisl" leet s to gef mud edi diiw nwob yel I noor'ells edi ni.mlii to xang s beqofevad did-wolley a han rofoocD edi.Bengfeey yzroo blair edi litnu beraysef -xoaid,abeaoidinj xooe zoon.uM bna eri djoed,kwae ould gnwoy a bna evob of noilaimav wen s diiw allamni moald owi bna,xredho'regit blad,aheen lltib dawn bna keuf on bum jud abolo'o & juoeh duo 'ney hivad.egemliq ,bedsontj-bet a nine of em newolla Koel'w.Juo yau eid gebon'ti yiloo 'rooc0 edi no berifer I lalixk redia.econ'reqxe yu to bertt edi,evoh -er ma I ou,ybemer Jeed edi al fedup egubosda;ged end teen of aolvba versefo bna berdaniH el saontaud edd litnu dmu yu no gnigf or beugla yu benxoa bna yige Sorool qestni edd no evoc erl Juod deciton I.qu leminq bna neilowa liiJa ni nlory ediT.noljion niked efult ni Joor dcerib elgmia yd yrevocer of aelgreno earevib ya lla bned lifa I ou .yfiv'iondi,jiw of -noljeo IO 'rebmvoi

(38) only to soak the foot in Dakin.The Doctor and David went ashore.Mr. Beck remained aboard to develop and print film.Mrs.Beck finds much comfort in her daily sojourn on shore with Mrs.McEachran.The Captain and George mended sail while I read Shakespeare.Rain again made the day's catch of birds small.The Doctor brought in both brown and black fantails,a reef heron,and a white-eared kingfisher.There are many of these fellows about;they nest down in the mangrove swamps.One hears them calling,particularly after rain- a shriller and more staccato note than the ku-ku-ku of the bigger white-headed brother.On account of the expanse of swamp I can hear few other birds except parrots and paroquets in the coconuts.Tihitian swallows are regular visitors to the France,perching on the halyards and carrying off bits of hemp to their nests on shore.About the only thing I can be sure of in regard to Nyanga anchorage is the landscape;so I shall attemt some topograph- ical mapping since.the Admiralty chart is so inadequate.This is a good locality to start on because the water-sheds of two ridges of hills,north and south empty into the bay from three rivers. November 11 On my back again except to soak.the foot and dress the sore. Mr.Beck and the Doctor constituted the field party.David down with another attack of fever.I read a great deal and typed a few notes.Mrs. McEachran came aboard for lunch.She is much the finest lady I have yet seen in the Solomons.We had much in common since she hails from County Wicklow.Her span of adventure and her knowledge of natives made very interesting conversation.The collection was richer this evening by a dozen or more birds- thickheads,black fantails,and white-eyes among those taken;also a white"barn-owl",so-termed by Mr.Beck,quite a rare prize.Only one other has been collected to date plus the one brought by us,a gift from the captain of the"Royal Endeavor"from Vanikoro. My leg is better this evening. November 12 I was able to skin a couple of birds this morning.The Doc- tor also remained aboard to put up the remainder of yesterday's catch. Mr.Beck spent the forenoon ashore returning after lunch with several gray-birds in addition to others already represented.He had the gray- bird both male and female in several plumages,one very young looking like a different kind entirely.About 1 P.M.the camping party return- ed with a good bagful considering the adverse weather.A brown bittern and several female gray-birds but no doves except common species.No yellow-bibs were found although they reached 2000 feet.The yellow-bib has been heard again by Mr.Beck along the small river,so it does not cleave exclusively to higher altitudes.All the birds taken by the campers,except the bittern and one red-billed kingfisher,have been collected on shore from the present anchorage. The fact that this is the emptying point of so much drainage from both N & S inland may help to explain the presence of so many unexpected varieties:the rarer dove like the yellow-bib and the thickhead is usually found above 2000 feet After the rain Mr.Beck took the dinghy up the small river returning just before dark with nothing important for his efforts- swifts,wag- tail,common kingfishers,and a young long-tail.No one reports the cock- atoo at this anchorage;one was taken at Vaitasoli.The Doctor has shot a number of pigmy parrots here. November 13 (Sunday) My leg is much improved so that I shall be able to be back with the field party during the coming week.The Doctor,G.R.,the Cap- tain and I visited the skull caves in the long-boat after breakfast.

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(39) The Doctor and I took numerous photographs and we all collected inter- esting mementa mori.There are three divisions of catacombs,two hav- ing two shelves cut to hold the skulls and one four shelves;two of the three are at the end of the plantation beside the salt-water. Each has at present about 100 skulls,the best of which lie arranged in single rows on shelves cut in the soft volcanic rock five feet above the ground.These are the"skull caves" per se,there being noth- ing else.The shelf is 18 inches high and varies from four to six feet in depth;those at the higher cave,located 100 yards along the shore from the two at the edge of the coconuts are 15 feet long.The smaller ones are not over six.Two of this size comprise the first cave,cut side by side with a rude face carved in the small space of rock bet- ween.The larger shelves had a rude bas-relief edge around the exter- ior.The higher cave was 50 feet above the water about midway up a steep cliff of volcanic buff.Here we found much the best-preserved skulls..and one,evidently an important chief,set in a little niche by itself.A small pile of skulls in varying states of decomposition lay on the ground in front of each shelf giving evidence of vandalism since they had undoubtedly been pulled out.Those left intact had the jaw-bone attached by lashings of vines and many still retained shell rings set in the eye-sockets with mud plaster.Most of them had offer- ings of polished rings tied on with vines.Shell rings and a few bro- ken spear heads lay scattered about on the floor of the shelves.There were occasional groups of skulls tied two or three together,perhaps near kinsmen.No body bones were present.According to a Malaita boy, a plantation laborer,only the corpse of a warrior merited such honor; the carcass was left to decay,the head cut off,cleaned and decorated, and finally placed on the shelf in an appointed place.Women,children, and insignificant males were buried uncerimoniously on Turnivilu I., which lies 1/4 mile from Nyanga.Most of the skulls evidently came from middle-aged men,the frontal suture rarely showing.There were a few very immature skulls.This funeral practice was not typical of all the natives of Vella Lavella because we have since learned of other meth- ods of dealing with the dead that were used in villages further north on the island.The most common seems to have been a sort of mummifying process,the entire body wrapped after preparation in leaves,bark,and vines.This is the only"skull-cave"that we have heard of on the island and hardly seems large enough to accommodate the"great men"of every tribe.There are so few aboriginal natives on the island that no know- ledge can be gained first-hand.The Malaita boys savvy a good deal;ap- parently they feel no fear of the ghosts of any but their own people. We pulled back to the France late for lunch.I soon developed my films most of which turned out poorly.I started a rough land-survey map of Vella Lavella on tracing paper based on the drawing of the Admiralty chart which only approximates the coast and leaves the topography un- touched except to give the maximum altitude as 3000 feet.I go simply by compass sights and rough interpolation. November 14 Mr.Beck and G.R.,went out for a morning's collecting.The Doctor developed his films with very successful result while I sketch- ed in my map the coastline and drainage of the vicinity.At noon we took kindly leave of Mrs.McEachran and stood out on a N by NW course for Mundi Mundi,reaching the anchorage at 3 P.M.During the trip we were busy putting up birds- starlings.swallows,a blackhead,megapode, mina,and green heron.Rain kept us aboard after arriving but Mr.Beck went off to interview the residents,who should be missionaries accord-

{ "text": "(C)\n\n...the definition of the word 'dread' is that which is feared or dreaded.\n\nThe word 'dread' has been used in many different ways. It may be used to describe a feeling of fear, anxiety, or apprehension. It may also be used to describe an object or situation that is frightening or terrifying.\n\nIn this context, the word 'dread' refers to the fear of being alone or isolated. This can be a very powerful and overwhelming emotion for some people. They may feel as though they are constantly watched or judged by others. They may also feel as though they are unable to escape from their surroundings.\n\nThis fear can lead to a number of negative consequences. It can cause people to avoid social situations, which can lead to isolation and loneliness. It can also cause people to develop anxiety disorders, such as agoraphobia or social phobia.\n\nThere are many ways to overcome this fear. One way is to gradually expose oneself to the situation that causes the fear. This can be done in a safe and controlled environment, with the support of a therapist or counselor. Another way is to learn relaxation techniques, such as deep breathing or progressive muscle relaxation. These techniques can help to reduce anxiety and promote a sense of calm.\n\nIt is important to remember that everyone experiences fear in different ways. What may be frightening for one person may not be so for another. It is important to find what works best for you and to seek professional help if needed.\n\nIn conclusion, the word 'dread' can refer to a variety of feelings and situations. In this context, it refers to the fear of being alone or isolated. This fear can have serious consequences, but there are many ways to overcome it. It is important to remember that everyone experiences fear in different ways and to seek professional help if needed.\n\n[illegible]\n\n...the definition of the word 'dread' is that which is feared or dreaded.\n\nThe word 'dread' has been used in many different ways. It may be used to describe a feeling of fear, anxiety, or apprehension. It may also be used to describe an object or situation that is frightening or terrifying.\n\nIn this context, the word 'dread' refers to the fear of being alone or isolated. This can be a very powerful and overwhelming emotion for some people. They may feel as though they are constantly watched or judged by others. They may also feel as though they are unable to escape from their surroundings.\n\nThis fear can lead to a number of negative consequences. It can cause people to avoid social situations, which can lead to isolation and loneliness. It can also cause people to develop anxiety disorders, such as agoraphobia or social phobia.\n\nThere are many ways to overcome this fear. One way is to gradually expose oneself to the situation that causes the fear. This can be done in a safe and controlled environment, with the support of a therapist or counselor. Another way is to learn relaxation techniques, such as deep breathing or progressive muscle relaxation. These techniques can help to reduce anxiety and promote a sense of calm.\n\nIt is important to remember that everyone experiences fear in different ways. What may be frightening for one person may not be so for another. It is important to find what works best for you and to seek professional help if needed.\n\nIn conclusion, the word 'dread' can refer to a variety of feelings and situations. In this context, it refers to the fear of being alone or isolated. This fear can have serious consequences, but there are many ways to overcome it. It is important to remember that everyone experiences fear in different ways and to seek professional help if needed.\n\n[illegible]\n\n...the definition of the word 'dread' is that which is feared or dreaded.\n\nThe word 'dread' has been used in many different ways. It may be used to describe a feeling of fear, anxiety, or apprehension. It may also be used to describe an object or situation that is frightening or terrifying.\n\nIn this context, the word 'dread' refers to the fear of being alone or isolated. This can be a very powerful and overwhelming emotion for some people. They may feel as though they are constantly watched or judged by others. They may also feel as though they are unable to escape from their surroundings.\n\nThis fear can lead to a number of negative consequences. It can cause people to avoid social situations, which can lead to isolation and loneliness. It can also cause people to develop anxiety disorders, such as agoraphobia or social phobia.\n\nThere are many ways to overcome this fear. One way is to gradually expose oneself to the situation that causes the fear. This can be done in a safe and controlled environment, with the support of a therapist or counselor. Another way is to learn relaxation techniques, such as deep breathing or progressive muscle relaxation. These techniques can help to reduce anxiety and promote a sense of calm.\n\nIt is important to remember [TRANSCRIPTION_TRUNCATED_DUE_TO_LOOP]

(40) ing to the chart.The rain abatted giving him a chance to shoot a few birds- fantails,both brown and black,thickhead and blackhead,and one flying fox.Instead of a mission he found a prosperous plantation under the direction of Mr.McPherson,about 150 acres under cultiva- tion.A number of the labor boys paid their respects and with them came a fine assortment of bananas,pawpaws,and pineapples.All were Malaita men. November 15 All ashore except Hicks;my leg is practically back to old form.Mr.Beck took a trail that follows the ridge in back of Mr.Mc- Pherson's house.The Doctor and I hunted along a river which has out- let just opposite our present anchorage.It averages 25 feet in width and from three to six in depth except over the last 1/2 mile before the mouth where it gets much larger.G.R.,went upstream,salmon-fashion, the Doctor took one side and I the other.As expected rain came about 11 o'clock and continued until 3.I followed a river trail for a mile and found birds plentiful,taking both brown and black fantails,bald flycatchers,brown-winged blackbird,white-eyes,red-rumped honeysuckers, and one red-billed kingfisher,the only significant catch.I also heard the cockatoo,mina,long-tail,parrots and paroquets,and megapodes;I saw a brown heron on the way up and missed a bittern on the way down.The ground dove occurs in the usual reddish-brown.The Doctor shot a new species of ground dove,a fine male,purple and black with white throat and head patches.Mr.Beck thinks it similar to one taken on Ramos I., in the southern Solomons.The honeysucker here is very dark and the adult male shows a slight red marking on the top of the head in addi- tion to the rump.The little kingfisher I shot right beside the stream just after the rain.One hears their shrill pipe at such times,particu- larly if it is near evening.They are never found high up in trees but invariably near the ground usually perched on some dead log or bare limb.In flight they are like a streak.The bittern was near the base of a huge root-tree,a species of wood unknown to me;the trunk pro- per begins anywhere from 10 to 30 feet above the ground surmounting a great pyramid cluster of roots that forms its base.The thickhead and blackhead are rare at the low altitude of the river bottom.Mr. Beck collected several above 1000 feet on his trek that took him to the top of the high ground about 5 miles inland.The France entertain- ed Mr.and Mrs.McPherson at dinner after the Doctor had extracted an ulcerated tooth belonging to the latter.The Doctor has proved a most welcome visitor both at plantations and native villages by virtue of his profession. November 16 The Doctor went along the river flats again while Hicks and I took the high ridge trail and climbed steadily until noon.On the way I took one ground dove,a red-throated dove and afew small birds.At 12:30 the rain came down in tropical torrents and contin- ued all afternoon.We had an old native leaf lean-to for shelter;when this collapsed upon our heads we came down,finding no birds in the welter of the storm.The river was greatly swollen and the entire basin in the coconuts inundated.Rising water had driven the Doctor out;no one else came ashore. November 17 Raised anchor at 6 A.M.,and stood out N half E for Choi- seul I.,a large body of land with numerous outlying islands;this should give us the balance of bird-types indigenous to the Solomons. We start a 35 mile run with a fair breeze.Like Vella Lavella,Choiseul

(41) I., is very inadequately charted .At the north end of Vella Lavella Mr.Beek had it in mind to collect again and spend the night at Saliva village but finding no suitable anchorage stood out definitely for Choiseul., a distance of 35 miles.On board after lunch I typed a few notes, worked at water-colors, and read.Toward evening a fair wind came up.A very pleasant night at sea. November 18 Developed some photographs in the A.M.We dropped anchor be- tween Moli I.,and the mainland of NW Choiseul at 3 P.M.Saw one small flock of shearwaters, but Mr.Beck could not reach them in time.While awaiting his return Mrs.Beck collected a bunch of marine invertebrates in a bucket.Terns were numerous- sooty and young Bergi; brown gannets and frigate birds(the latter I have previously called"bellamas", -this I find is derived from the French"belle de mer").A plantation owned by Mr.Hamilton of Sydney is operated here by Malaita labor; the overseer comes down once a week from Choiseul Bay.Close by there is a small salt water village, population about 30.G.R., Hicks, and I went up a small river that empties nearby;Mr.Beck took the long boat to see if any white person stopped at the house on the island.I heard thickheads when we had landed about 1/2 mile up;I shot a white-eye which revealed a new variation- dark olive bill and olive-green feet, the head a lighter shade of the same color and the breast shows a great deal of white, yellowing toward the head.Hicks and I took black fantails which show a darker plumage in head and back and more white secondaries.Returning we heard the hornbill.On the way down the river G.R., and I each shot a white-eared kingfisher.Yellow honeysuckers and the white-headed"ku- ku"kingfisher(called"kekeow"on Choiseul)seemed plentiful among the coconuts along the shore.Mr.Beck had ten birds- starlings, black fan- tails, and a female thickhead.Natives from the village as well as a boatload of labor boys visited the France.The former are very black as contrasted to the lighter Malaita men; they are very quiet and friendly. They brought pawpaws,yams,and bananas to trade.Fishhooks and calico were the desiderata.The island of Choiseul is 80 miles long and from 10 to 15 miles wide extending from NW to SE by the compass.The highest ground is found around the southern end where altitudes of 2500 feet are reported.The maximum altitude at our present anchorage is, perhaps, 1500;the ground has the appearance of rising gradually in consecutive ridges that drain lengthwise of the island.The largest rivers at this end flow into Choiseul Bay.From our position we can see the Shortlands and Bougainville on a clear day.Fringing reefs lie along the shore here with a heavy barrier about 2 miles out. November 19 All ashore by 7 A.M.I followed a trail that led up a main ridge crossing the stream we investigated yesterday about 2 miles up. Thickheads,black fantails,and brown flycatchers were common;I shot several.The brown flycatcher does not show any white about the head like those recently taken on other islands eastward.I heard both the pigmy parrot and the midget but could not get a shot at either.I took a common ground dove and a brown heron.The red-knobbed and gray-headed pigeon are abundant.The long-tail is not present here, verified by the natives.I shot a hornbill as he was hanging upside down reaching for fruit;he caught in a liana vine and I was forced to cut an 8 inch tree to bring him down;he proved to be an old male with six notches.Black honeysuckers are not plentiful in the high country;they seem to prefer river bottoms.I often get their tiny whistle confused with the pipe of the red-billed kingfisher.The red-breasted dove called from the

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(42) tops of high trees;cockatoos,minas,parrots and paroquets were also heard.G.R.brought in a little mountain kingfisher exhibiting a new plum- age- black bill,lighter blue mottled head,and light yellow and sienna colored breast,iris brown,feet flesh-pink.It proved to be a female and since the natives positively report the presence of the red-billed "shinga",I think it is the same in a young plumage.Hicks shot two of the bright blue headed kind similar to those taken on Ysabel.We put up 68 birds by 9:30. November 20 (Sunday) Awoke with a sour cold.Worked a bit with water-colors and notes.Read during the late afternoon.Mr.Beck shifted the anchorage more to the leeward of Moli I., to avoid the heavy roll which we have experienced of late. November 21 Heavy rain throughout last night and continuing in the A.M. I ventured up the river about 9:30 the rain having abated some and had the experience of missing three kingfishers on the wing- two white-ear- ed and one little blue.One gets little time to prepare to shoot;one heralds his approach with a sharp call.They live along the banks and up the small tributaries that flow into the main stream.The entire bot- tom is thickly vegetated with small timber,vines,and weeds of every de- scription.Whenever one is found perching it is invariably on a bare limb,usually a dead one;frequently on mangrove roots.When one alights it will usually sit for a minute or two unless frightened.The red-billed impresses me as the most rapid in flight.The white-eared and little blue are very speedy and usually keep to the bank under the overhanging limbs making it doubly hard for a mediocre marksman.The big white-headed fel- low and the common land type are fine targets because of their size and loud calls.None of the kingfishers seem to pay any attention to calling; probably because their calls are so difficult to imitate well.I saw a pair of brown herons too far away to shoot.After lunch all the field party except Mr.Beck went ashore along divers trails.The Doctor and G.R. have been fortunate in securing good natives for guides and retrievers. I followed the same nygali nut path that takes one in a SE direction for about 3 miles to an altitude of approximately 800 feet.There are three little camping places along the trail with good leaf houses where one could spend a comfortable night.I shot only six birds- thickheads,male and female,black fantail,cockatoo,brown flycatcher,and graybird.The thick heads here are most plentiful,black fantails a close second;they come readily to calling.Brown fantails,doves,the little mountain king- fisher,and in particular the crested pigeon(microgura meeki)are the desiderata.Mr.Beck has found that the natives savvy the latter,but they give the impression that it is rare.Meeks collected them somewhere on Choiseul in the eighties. November 22 G.R.,laid up with a knee infection.Hicks down with grippe and indigestion.Mr.Beck,the Doctor,and I went ashore.I again took the usual tail,climbing as far up as it went to the ultimate nygali nut out- post;here were planted coconuts in poor bearing and a small shed and a sort of lean-to had been built.On Vella Lavella,I recall,we found coco- nuts in full bearing at 1500 feet.I flushed three ground doves,getting one;I recoinnoitered many ravines and intersecting ridges where under- brush was sparse- good places for ground birds,but no crested head showed itself.The common ground dove is often encountered near places where the natives have cracked nuts.I took a brown and a black fantail, pigmy parrot,white-eye,gray-bird,and brown flycatcher.A black snake

(54) [illegible] [illegible] (03:19) yd abrid b6 (yabru6) OS redmevov [illegible] M.A edj nt gnuninitnoo hne jdgim taal tnuopuomt niaq yvasH ed hns emoa hesads gniyad nlay edj 03:Q juoda revir edj qu bequinev I ae-ejinw owd -gniw edj no snedai?gnik seand gnlaeim to soeneireqxe edj eno;joora of eragerq of eajit aLjii ajeg enO.euid sLjiii emo hns he hns ankad ent gmoia evil yent.lias guada n djiw doacrqqa ain abisverd od etlme enT.mneida niam edj otui woll jadj aelnaadidij liama edj qu b yreve to ahew hns,seiniy,rechmri liama naiw bedajogev yikoidn ai moj erad a no yLdaiiavni aLji gnidoieq ihuot ai emo revenedT.noitqiroe etdgila emo nenW.ajeor evovgnan no yLdneupert;eno hneb a yLiavan,dmif lid-bem edt.benejingiat anelnu owd to etunim a roi jte yLiavan liiw ji d sLjiii hra berae-ediw edt.sdgift ai biogen jaom enij as em aeceerqmi aLj gnignadirevo edj rebno xned edj of geek yLiavan hns ybeeqa yrev era et behaed-etnre gid edt.nmexkrrm eroodhem a rot brad yidnub ji gnizem a eita mienT to eanued ategud eniT eva eqyd.hnef nemmoa ent hns wol liiao of noitnejrn yna yag of mesa snedai?gnif edj to emoh.aisao huof a wae I.Ifew ederimi of jinolfiib on era alimo mienT eanued yLdsdorg bleir ent lla nornal tedTA.joora of yewa rot ood anoter mwoed to niag b hns rojsoed edi.alifnt erewih gnofs stories jnew koeE.ni jqooke yjtaq reveyrder hns seebng roi sevitan boog gniwbeas hi ejamunoT need uvad noitcerib 05 a ni eno sexaj jant dna jun liayn emoa ent bewofioT I enij era erent.jeei 006 yiehemix-rea to ebudjia ns of eelim r juoda emo eredw eeavod taef Boog djiw lianj edj gnofs zebaiq gniqmes sLjiiif iem,aEserkolidt -abrid xis yLno jona I.jdgim sldajrcmee a hnoqa hlnoo edt.briddyng hns,tenstouyit mwoed,ooderoco.liamaT koido,olsemT hns sui;hmona eaeLo & alldnatia world,liLjineiq jaom era ened ahmad hdjdj gnik niaidmoom aLdaii ent,aevob,alijauiT nwon8.gniliao of yLiaver emoo edT ere(ideam awugoreim)noegiq bejaeno edj nafnainag nt hns,reialT aj sud,redkni edj yvvas aevitan edj jadj hnwi ash keek6.rh.ejarebisbeh no erenwemoa mody betcelloo skoeE.eraT ai ji jadj noitaeerqmi edj evig .aeijrigie ent ni iuestorO SS redmevov agpiq djiw nwob sxiHE.noitceini eonk a djiw qu hiafI,R.O edT ko6 nlaqa I.erodes jnew I hns,rojaod edt,keek.rh.noitaeigibnt hna o jun liayn ejamiiiu edj of jnew ji as qu ral as gnidmifs,liat iavau hns hedz liama a hna gni?eed roog ni ajunooo bednaiq smow ered;jeop ooo hnwoT ew,liaser I.allevad alieV nO.jLind need had oj-moel to jmoa nijjag,aevob harorg eeuii hendnif I.jeeT 008I ja gnixeed llaT ni ajun rebno evaru aegbir gni?seerqai hna seniver yann bedejondlooev I:eno hned bedeato on jnd,ahid bnwoq roi aecaiq boog -eetaga aw hwrid aocaiq nten bedanmooqe nerTo si evo8 hamorg nommoa ent.lieajT bewora latnat kaidA hna mwond a ke6 I.suuh hednneo evar aevidan ent erawW exene Koeid A.dedjsoyit mwoed hns,brid-yera,ege-ejiuw,jornaq yajiq

(43) wiggled away from me after I had shot it in the tail with the aux.Snakes have been scarce here so far.I missed a blackhead in addition;although I waded the river for 1/4 mile upstream and followed many little brooks in my sallies down various ravines I saw no little kingfishers.The up-country is serrated with ravines that lead into three or four main ridges running lengthwise of the island(NW to SE);two central ridges surmount a large river canyon which drains the high land.The average width of the stream is 30 feet and is easily forded.I found a number of craters at 1000 feet many of the ravines leading into such places.Birds I met in small bunches- fantails,the black seem to run together while the brown is usually taken singly,fly-catchers,thickheads,pigmy parrots;the black-heads I have noticed in pairs very often.Midgets travel in flocks like the little parrots and the calls of both are easily confused.Of all the birds the pigmy comes to calling most readily,probably because its tiny squeak is so readily imitated.I have shot a number hanging upside down from vines and clinging to the bark of large trees.The fly-catchers frequent fairly low foliage when they are getting insects;and the other varieties of small birds are usually most plentiful,and are certainly most easily taken in groves of small timber and underbrush.The black honeysucker is represented on Choiseul with dark yellow breast,red head, and dark yellow wings;it feeds particularly on the blossom of a tall tree.White-eyes are abundant and are the songsters of the islands.The bald fly-catcher shows no white on the head,but is black with reddish-brown breast.The common black-headed fly-catcher does not have the pronounced red inside its bill as formerly the case on Vella Lavella,Gizo, Kulambangra,etc.,Hornbills,minas,parrots,cockatoos,graybirds,and crow as well as the common red-knobbed and gray pigeon inhabit the taller trees.I have seen hornbills,minas,parrots,cockatoos,and both pigeons feeding in the same tree,a great gnarled forest giant;they eat the small red berry-like fruit.No one has yet taken any of the doves which we can hear calling daily high up in the tree tops.The white-tailed"nickabar" pigeon is also common here.The crested ground pigeon(microgura meeki)remains a mystery bird.Both the Doctor and G.R.,have found natives here very useful as guides and retrievers;they have collected lots of snails upon the suggestion of the former.The community here is small and very friendly;one can get a boy simply by starting along one of the bush trails.There are other villages up the coast;we have been visited by several large canoes.A Methodist Mission teacher came from one with the name of Wesley as a patron saint.There is a school house at the nearby village with plenty of good slates(made in Pennsylvania)which have not seen much use. November 23 Mr.Beck,the Doctor,and I ashore for the day.The remarkable forbearance of rain has been most fortuitous.I followed Mr.Beck along his trail and struck little luck until the afternoon after crossing the large river that flows northward in the central canyon.Along the ridge over there I took a brown fantail,blackhead,red-breasted fly-catcher, and midget;as I was quietly eating my sardines a male and female hornbill flew into the tree above me.They were added to the collection.The male had six notches and the female three.I climbed down to the river bottom, suggested by Mr.Beck as a likely place for the evanescent crested pigeon; I waded downstream for 1/2 mile.I saw two brown herons and missed a rapid shot at a duck,a common teal.I shot a red-crested dove,mina,and a common sand piper;then a red-billed kingfisher flew and lighted on a log not more than 100 feet distant offering me a perfect shot,which I missed by squeezing the aux instead of the trigger on the big shell.It is the

(44) worst skull I have pulled yet;we have only one of the wood kingfishers and that had a black bill and a light yellow breast,evidently a young plumage.The natives report the red-billed"shinga";this one I missed was in plain sight and I am positive of its red bill and orange breast. Returning to the ship I collected several unusual spiders and a large lizard. November 24 (Thanksgiving Day) Breakfasted on fried hornbill breasts.Then skinned a hornbill and helped the Doctor clean snails.In the evening we had a sumptuous dinner thanks to Mrs.Beck;the Doctor wrote some appropriate stanzas which were read on the occasion. November 25 Raised anchor and steamed 11 miles north to Choiseul Bay;we let go the iron off Mr.Everett's,manager of one of Hamilton's planta- tions.Mr.Beck,the Doctor,Hicks,and I went ashore about 10 A.M.We had to walk a mile through the coconuts to reach the bush where we found no trails for considerable distance.I ventured into a mangrove swamp where the going was rough over broken coral and roots;here I took a few birds- white-eye,brown fantail,red-breasted fly-catcher,black fantail,and young male thickhead.This plumage in many of the small birds resembles the female adult.Reached higher ground and got on a ridge where I heard hornbills and cockatoos but few small birds.Met the Doctor and later Hicks.We returned together and in the coconuts I shot a rusty-winged blackbird and a common land kingfisher,large.Mr.Beck had come back to the ship early and had gone up a large river that empties into the bay nearby.He returned with a white-eared kingfisher and knowledge that the river is navigable for 3 miles. November 26 All the field party went up the river in the long boat to a point where further progress was prevented by a considerable waterfall. At this place the river branches.I followed the left for about a mile finding the river drainage extremely rough;the ground was full of holes and rocky knolls,small precipitous ravines,mostly lava and crumbly vol- canic rock.The river bed had an intermixture of clay at the surface. Bird life was very sparse.We went up the river at ebb tide and mangrove roots on either bank were exposed for considerable distance inland.Five little blue kingfishers were seen.There are plenty of curlew up the river and around the bay.Mr.Beck shot one and a duck in addition.The little kinf- fishers nest in holes up in dead trees or in the bank itself alonf small tributary streams and are out on the main stream at low tide.Wé saw none returning when the tide was full.One huge tree near the falls might be called"the hornbill tree";there were at least 30 hornbills feeding in the branches.I found a similar tree in my ramble which harbored crows, minas,and gray pigeons;some of the birds pick the inside of the friut out, the ground being covered with shucks.These could be heard dropping all around mingled with the peculiar gurgling and chuckling of the contented birds.I did my best to secure the nest of a common land kingfisher which was 20 feet up a large dead trunk,but did not make the grade.The mother bird would visit it about every five minutes,evidently feeding the young ones.I found a black honeysucker,female,teaching a pickininnny to fly;I took the young one up and the mother hovered about in distraction. Just above the place where we had tied the long boat Mr.Beck found a pigmy parrot's nest dug in a black ant's nest which was about 7 feet up on the side of a large white-barked tree 150 feet high.There were two eggs in the nest,undiscovered at first because they lay up on a little shelf above the aperture.Both Mr.Beck and Hicks saw the pair fly out.

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(45) In the main stream of the river in the fork of dead limbs protruding above the surface of the water we saw two wagtail's nests; one had two eggs in it, nearly incubated. Returning Mr. Beck shot two long tailed swifts and a small green parrot, a gray-headed female. November 27 Up the river after breakfast to acquire some photographs and to bathe. Saw two little blue kingfishers and a dozen curlew; small green parrots inhabit the mangrove trees near the mouth; white-eyes and midgets were heard along both banks. November 28 Mr. Beck and I went up the river in the dinghy; the Doctor and Hicks went ashore on the plantation. On the way up we got a large eagle hawk and one little blue kingfisher. I got ashore about a mile below the falls on the north bank and followed a ridge until noon when I found myself lost since I had crossed some intersecting ridges. I stop- frequently to call but only got a crow. By 2 o'clock I had found my way out to the river somehow where I shot a pair of young hornbills in "the hornbill tree". I had covered at least three square miles of country and felt very poorly compensated; all the small birds I found were along the river bank. Mr. Beck had poor luck; he shot at a small chocolate-colored ground dove previously taken on San Cristobal and on the Santa Cruz is- lands. He shot a green parrot, male of the small species; this bird had a yellow head and beak (female- gray head and black beak), and is similar to the small parrot taken further south in the group. The weather has con- tinued clear of rain, excellent conditions for collecting but very few birds. We have had only one light rain in the evening for the last four days. Mr. Everett visited the France in the evening. November 29 Raised anchor and stood out for the Shortlands. Mr. Beck and I went ashore on a small islet (Redman) at the entrance to Choiseul Bay. We waded over reefs to get to it and took two lesser yellow legs; other common shore birds were about- golden plover and sand-pipers in abundance. Sooty and noddy terns were also plentiful. The island itself was complete- ly surrounded by fringing reef that stretched out to sea in some places for 1/2 mile; the harbor is protected by a barrier reef 3 miles out through which passage can be gained in only one safe place. The island was very low and wet, covered with mangroves near the shore and a few coconuts. It proved to be a haven for the gray pigeon; Mr. Beck shot enough for a meal (6) in a half hour. I collected three white-headed kingfishers and some yellow honeysuckers. Mr. Beck got three gray-headed fly-catchers, a species that has been taken previously on small islands similarly located. The only other birds I observed were the gray-backed shriek and the white- tailed (nikabar) pigeon. Returned to the ship at 11 o'clock and the captain stood out SW by W for the Shortlands. Under sail all afternoon due to engine trouble. Laid to off Oema I., and Oema Atoll for the night with a course set for Fauro I. November 30 Dropped anchor in passage between Fauro I., and Tauno I. in North Bay at 11 A.M. The Doctor and I went ashore for the afternoon. We found a trail that took us about 300 feet up the mountain to the spot where a native had a canoe dug-out in the process of completion. The canoe here is an outrigger, frequently equipped with sails; most of them are dug-outs in contrast to the seamed canoes, sealed with teeta nut putty typical of all the southern islands even to Choiseul. We saw one such canoe equipped with an outrigger at Nyanga on Vella Lavella. We struck just one pocket of small birds in a large tree quite high up. We took a brown fantail, blackhead, both the black-headed and red-breasted fly-catchers, midget,

(46) Starlings and shrieks were found in a swamp near the shore. The black honeysucker shows a darker plumage than the Choiseul species. The red- breasted fly-catcher shows a white patch in front of the eye which is brown in tinge in the female. The common green parrot, cockatoo, common red" coconut" parrot, and hornbill are present. I heard no little paroquets. Both red-knobbed and gray pigeon are plentiful; we heard them feeding with hornbills and parrots in a great many-rotted tree like a banyan, but much taller; the fruit is a small red berry the size of a small green gage. The ground under such a tree is covered with them, both the whole fruit and others that have been shucked. The blackhead resembles the Choi- seul species closely. We heard neither white-eyes nor thickheads. Mr. and Mrs. Beck visited Tauno I., with considerable profit; as he was landing back on Fauro to pick us up he got a night-hawk, one bird out of three that he flushed. Mrs. Beck caught a fine sphinx moth. December 1 Fauro I., is 11 miles long N & S and is very irregular in shape; the northern half is not over a mile and a half in width and the south- ern half four at the greatest. It is the second largest one of the Short- land group. The maximum altitude is about 2000 feet in the southern half. The land goes up to 1100 fairly steeply at the present anchorage. Fauro lies on the 7th parallel of latitude. The Doctor, Hicks, and I went ashore on Fauro to-day, Mr. Beck on Tauno again. I went to the top of the ridge to a point from which I could see Choiseul to the south and Ovau I., to the north. Near the top I took three blackheads, one in the peculiar young brown plumage. Also brown fantails, red-breasted and black-headed flycatchers, and black honeysucker; I shot one male graybird which show- ed brown patches on the base of the tail and under the wings, the finish of the moult. No thickheads or white-eyes to-day. The Doctor took a red- breasted dove and Mr. Beck a white-breasted hawk similar to one taken by G.R., and I on Florida I. Several large lizards and three snakes were gleaned, the latter light brown. The common lizard is a dark brown; as usual the brilliant blue striped lizard is common. One of the lizards was new- a brilliant grass green with gray mottled hind legs. I took several highly colored hard-shell spiders. Kingfishers are not plentiful here; we have heard the white-headed once and the bright blue is heard often up in the woods. The latter are usually found around the coconuts. December 2 Raised anchor as soon as the tide (which runs 3 knots here) changed to favor our passage to Sinasora Bay. Steamed nine miles passing Karlike village, a Methodist station under native supervision. Reached Kalia plantation in Sinasora Bay at 10:30 where we met Mr. Pinneau who manages a plantation for an estate. The altitude here goes up to nearly 2000 feet. Hicks, the Doctor and I went ashore for the afternoon. Mr. Beck down with a dose of fever. Hicks and I found an old trail up a ridge which we followed climbing to about 800 feet. Birds were very scarce; I took only a honeysucker and a fly-catcher. The Doctor fared a little better. December 3 Mr. Beck better this morning and G.R., also in shape to go ashore for the first time since his knee got infected. I climbed up as far as Hicks and I had cut yesterday without getting a bird; instead of keeping on to the top I foolishly turned back. As a result I rambled all afternoon covering very little territory and taking only three com- mon flycatchers. I collected a number of hard-shelled spiders and two other kinds and one frog.

(34) December 2 December 2 Mr. Beck-mR. KarlHeine's

(47) December 4 (Sunday) Mr.Pinneau entertained us ashore for the greater part of the day.He served an excellent midday dinner in a fly-proof room- egg-plant soup and roast duck.We used his room for writing afterward.Our host can spin some swift yarns about the islands;like many.other planters he is a blown-away mariner who was induced to come to the Solomons to"help out" a bogus uncle.He reports that he has had naturalists staying with him be- fore.One free-lancer caught a number alive to sell to zoos.Pinneau says he got a number of small quail,which may have been young megapodes,since the reporter does not distinguish a nikobar pigeon from one of the com- mon red-knobbed or gray.Mr.Beck suggested to-day that we shall go to Bougainville after the next steamer. December 5 Raised anchor at 5:30 and stood out for Mono(Treasury)I.,45 miles SW by our course.Passed Shortland I.,and it shows very little high land.Spent the day developing film and writing letters for the com- ing Mataram.Dropped anchor at 8 P.M.in passage between Mono I.,and Stir- ling I.Natives came out from a salt-water village immediately in outrig- ger canoes of all sizes;the largest was seven fathoms(42 feet)long and capable of carrying fifty persons.It was hewn out of a single tree trunk and very simple in design and decoration.A fine-looking Fijian who is a Methodist missionary came aboard.The village which boasts a population of over 200 pays a head tax to the Mission of one pound yearly.The Rev. Goldie of the Methodist Church in the Solomons handles most of their copra output.The natives looked clean in white singlets;they are very friendly and most of them speak good"pidgin".They imparted much inform- ation about the island although they seemed to know little about its bird life. December 6 Mono I., is 6 miles E X W and 4 miles N X S.The island is mound-shaped and has a maximum altitude of about 1200 feet at its center.There are three small islets between Stirling I.,and the main island, none of any size.Two are planted with coconuts and one is the residence of a Chinese trader.The whole force went out this morning on trails that started at the village and led in all directions.After some butting about I struck a good trail that took me up to the top of the central ridge about two miles inland.The only birds I saw or heard were the megapode,red-knobbed and gray pigeon,and the small flycatcher;cockatoos, minas,red and green parrots,and starlings were also present.Returning from the top where one could look down 150 feet into an old crater,the forest was as silent as a morgue except for a couple of white-breasted flycatchers which I shot and could not find.After lunch I got into one of the many streams that apparently flow from the central area around the crater;here I was encouraged by the sight of a brown heron,a white- eared kingfisher,and the acquisition of a mina.I also saw a large eagle- hawk,too high to try for.The usual Solomon Is.,avifauna of the smaller species are certainly absent.The rest of the collectors reported the same lack of fantails,thickheads,red flycatchers,blackheads;the white- eared seems to be the only kingfisher that is common.Mr.Beck took seven at the mouth of one of the larger streams and Hicks one.The island is abundantly stocked with insects and both small and large lizards;snakes, lying-foxes,and possums are reported abundant by the natives.The Doctor suggests that the presence of such a host of large black lizards(from 6' to 24')is one cause of the absence of small birds that nest in low trees. I believe that the island is younger in origin that the surrounding ones. The streams which are numerous show bottoms composed of hard,greyl clay and great loose boulders of volcanic rock.I saw four that had this kind

(71) (7abnu8) A redneooq edj to jraq tednaq edj ro' etnan av banigmeju neanilT,al jnaliq-gge -seon tooq-q'i'l a ni teurbib yabhim iqeliqxo na leyrus ek,yab noo juod mu0.aaermiia qnilirw rot moon aid beeu eE.toub jason hae quoa el od zaajnaiq tedjo,ynan efii;abneiai edj luode amaq jiwa aroa nliq juo qlaq"h3 ancmolo8 end o5 emoo of keunhit nay ony zeniam yawa-nwofl a od min driv qniyala ajaflehuon can add ad W6' atreque eE.alonu angot a aywa uornilveoox oo ilen ot eviln redman a jigleo taanal-earit an0.e rot ecnta,aehogeqem gmuy nead even way duinw,tloup hama to redman a jog et -moo edj to emc won't noegiq radekin a dalinguiahp jou seol netroqer aid od og ilara ew jada yab-of betagguva koot.ik.yeng to beddomi-ber nom remassn khan edj red'ia elilvnagoth 2 redneoo0 6+.,I(yuuaett)onom 'yet juo booda hae 05:8 ja todana heaiah elidii ywav ewade +1 tna,..i knalzonK keanuE,earnoo uro yi' W8 aolfa -see edi rot eroidel gojdiw /as nill galcolyab yab edj theqo..Shaf lma -rid2 hae..I onom neetwed gyaaseq ni.M? 6 ja toronu beqqouO.maratah guli girjuo ni yibtaieemil egalliv rezaw-dlee a moni juo emaG sevijah.I yufi hma amofl(juel 2-)emodjnt nevee awy teegral edj;seixp iia to aeono ieg truyd bedd elgita a 'to Juu nwen new ni.angereq wi'll gairnue to eldagso a' ony nsil'i't galxcolf-onf'A.malzarobeb hma aglase of alqila ywav hwa mo'juuqeq a staeod holiv egalliv edT.kaode snab yraneJahim jaibontem a 'vell edT.ylaay haroq ono 'to nofasil end ot xaf taeh a syaq 007 nevo to 'theriv 'to teom seIbnar ancmolo8 end ni nuqorU jethonteE end 'to eliblor ywav eda yenitiateigita eidhw ni maefo bedool zeviaan edi.duqino arooo -rronni nomn redreami yen'. 'nighiq"boog maeq merl 'to faom hna ylibreivt ajf juoda elijil womx of bemaga yant ignoofia breial end juoda nolde .elif baid 5 redneoo0 el knafai enT.8 X W aefla A hae.W X 6 aelim:0 ai,.I onom -neo ajj ja deet OOSE juods 'to oluofjie munixoa a nad lna beqade-linom bnalaf nism end hne,.I galiridE neetwed atelci liama seuit ana erodT.rej eonebieen edj ai emo hna aJuorooa rlivw hejunaiq ema owT.ozie ywa to enon allant no galnrom alih juo juew eooni efow edT.tehant seenidk a 'to gnidnd emoe rejiia.enclfotilb iia ai bel hna egalliv end ja bedrma tant Ierines edj to got end ot qu em doot jadl ilang boog a konuta I juode edj etew Eused to was I abrid yino edT.hnaini aafim owt juoda eghir ,aocjafoo:redeaayli iiaa end hna,zoegiq yavz hna beddomi-ber,eboqeqem griwven.juaoaq eela snaw egufinda hna,edernaq neeng hna hu,schim end,rejaro bfo na ofni joot 05I mwoh moal hlwoo eno ereie poj edj won't bedaeard-aidx 'to siqnea a ic? qpero-enyum a aa Jnalia an awy Jaerot ano ojni jog I nonuf raj'a.bnit jon hluo hae jods I doidw aredojayi,T' lmuoa mens leriuep end mon? mofl ylnemqqa jadl amseida ynam aid to -edim 2,nored nwoud a 'to Jniga edj ya' begywoone saw I ered,rejaro eho -elgaa egual a was cala i.aunm a 'to noitaiupoa end hna,redotignik heuse reilama end to amuative,.el nomolo8 lawar edT.mof yut od ngih oE,xwar edj bejyoqer emojceifoo edj 'to jaeu enT.tneda ylniadrep awa aeloqqa -edidz end;abaadnoald,shedochoy'l ben,abaadiind,eilixaiy 'to nosi uma nevee nooJ ko08.mK.noomoo ai jadk 'remitgnik' yino edj od of amoa berse ai bnaiai enT.eno awoih hwa amaeva teguil end to ano to djum end he ,aexkena;ixasif egual hae iima drod hna atocani ddiw befooda qltnlhuuda rednod edT.aevitan edj yd qnabrua bejyoqer awa amuwoq hua,eeot'-galyi? 'o mot)abeaif tosid egual 'to juod a hana 'to eoneaeeg edj jadl etbegye .eeert woi ni jaen jadl alnic liama 'to ceneada end 'to eeono ano ai("W8 of .ceno yrihmerwue edj jadd nigiro ni regnway ai bnaiai edd jadt evelid I yelo,yeng,bran 'to neoomoo emojlod woda sueremaa awa holvi ammeta edi ``` ```

(E1) (48) of formation.All the bird life I saw was around these drainage areas- very little on top of the ridges although they are heavily wooded.Most of the trees high up are very old and tall,however;the "scrub"is down in the vallies where the water flows.One common ground dove was taken; the Doctor saw three.The village is the most interesting thing about the is- land.It is the only one and extends all the way across a peninsular at southern end.The most extensive coconut grove is around the village it- self,although there are coconuts and gardens planted all over the island. The natives evidently visit them periodically on short trips;one finds many sheds for copra and poi manufacture along the numerous trails as well as rest houses for sleep.The leaf houses of the village extend. in orderly rows across the island forming several streets;each house has its food supply of yams,coconuts,and taro stored under the raised floor and a canoe resting close by.Each man heading a family has at least two meris and plenty of pickininnies.The village streets all conjoin at a point on the south shore around several communal houses;one is the Mis- sion station and the others are for the separate use of men,women,and children.The chief has a large domicile at this location and is the first to greet anyone coming ashore.Neither the meris or the children show any fear of the white man.I was impressed by the clean and healthy look of the little children;they were eager to accompany us into the bush.There were very few cases of yaws or skin disease of any kind and all seemed casually occupied with the duties of maintenance- the men cutting copra or working on houses or canoes,the meris carrying water or making poi for pudding,the children on their own taking it all in.Even their betel- nut trees are planted in little groves in the woods in back of the village and each shows the mark of its owner carved on the green bark.This reveals how well such a community fared in isolatio before the white man came;and in a rather unhealthy part of the group.This is their dry season and a number of men have died from the heat.Evidence of the dignity still ac- corded to the chief was shown by a dance held this evening to appease the testy god of the salt-water that recently upset the master's canoe and caused him to lose all his tobacco and his pipe.A number of women and children gaily decked with flowers and bright lavalavas were gathered around one female who beat tim by jumping and pounding the ground with a heavy piece of wood.There were a number of old men present and some few young taking part;the dance was nothing more than a monotonous sway- in of bodies to the slow rhythm of the beater;those in the rank closest to the drum held a kind of baton made of fibre matting rolled up.All re- vealed a considerable spirit of merriment.And there was community singing. Besides the few birds collected we managed to get six different kinds of lizards,five frogs,one a tree-frog,and a small variety of insects.There were fifty natives on board when we arrived,all laden with trade stuff- taro,yams,bananas,oranges,pineapples,pawpaws,and a sort of sweet potato. They soon exhausted the ship's supply of calico,which was what they want- ed most.I bought a pair of pearl fishhooks,some water bottles made out of clay and of coconut shell,and three adzes.We even secured five fowls and some eggs.The quality of this produce evidenced their prosperous state. The Chinaman proved a friend when he presented the ship with a nice little pig which will be stuck for Christmas. December 7 All ashore with instructions to shoot cockies,minas,and star- lings.I soon got into a stream and collected a pair of little flycatchers a yellow honeysucker,and a white-eared kingfisher.The latter were numer- ous about the mouth but very scarey.The majority of those that I have seen on other islands have been around the mouths of rivers or streams.Missed a perfect shot at a ground dove and met both G.R.,and Hicks,neither of

t T reedunet -rata bna,zanin,seihooo juoda oj eroldantani kjiw etonas IIA

(49) who had seen any thing extraordinary.Hicks and I ran into a flock of cockatoos and we shot five;as each one was shot,the others would circle around screaming angrily and soon return to offer a perfect target.I shot three starlings and one large blue butterfly with a yellow body. I collected several lizards- one brown,another green with grey hind legs, and another light brown with silver stripes.I took a couple of lorngi- corn beetles ;the Doctor has collected a number as well as other insects. Mr.Beck visited Stirling I.,this afternoon.When we got aboard the natives again had the ship,this time with all manner of live specimens of frog, snake,possum.The snake,a white one with brown markings struck the Doctor when he was unpacking it;fortunately it proved non-venomous.There were eight possums,all alive and with the number of flying-foxes taken from the coconuts behind the village will make a nice series of mammals taken from Mono.This material has somewhat balanced the lack of birds.At 8 PM we hove up anchor and stood out NW for the Shortlands. December 8 The mammal dept.,was busy until 3 o'clock.After lunch Mr.Beck and G.R.,went ashore on a small island,the easternmost of the Shortland group on the chart;it is unnamed and lies about 11 miles south of Bou- gainville on approximately the 7th parallel of longitude.It is \frac{1}{2} mile long and not over 200 yards wide,sandy,covered with mangroves,low bush, coconuts,and a few high trees;a large blue lagoon lies on one side sur- rounded by a barrier reef.About 20 birds were collected- the ashy-headed flycatcher,thickheads,small eagle-hawk,white-headed kingfisher,and blue- headed parrot.Mr.Beck shot two lesser noddies while returning to the ship.The reef harbors a number of terns of various species,the noddy be- ing the most common.I did very little after the possum session on account of some new infections that have developed on my feet from innocent-look- ing mosquito bites. December 9 Stood out early for another small island to the westward,the next in line toward Shortland I.,itself;anchor was dropped inside the reef at 9 A.M. and Mr.Beck and G.R.,again went ashore.My feet are still not so good;I stayed aboard and took the hide off the eagle-hawk and a kingfisher.A brief shower early this morning is the first rain we have seen in ten days.Birds were plentiful- ashy-headed flycatcher,thickhead, common white-breasted flycatcher,fantails in abundance,cockatoos,green and red parrots,blue-headed parquets,reef herons of the blue order- these were the birds collected;sea birds- terns of at least three or four species are always passing and the big plover is frequently heard. Momulufu is the name of the island which is a mile and a half long and \frac{1}{2} mile wide;a small grove of coconuts is at one end.The island itself is mostly coral.There is a difference of four feet in the tide now that the moon has justed waxed to its fullest.One can walk from Momulufu to two other little islets at low tide. December 10 G.R.,and I went over to Momulufu and Mr.Beck to Aikiki I. Small birds,the fantail in particular,can be summoned by calling al- most anywhere;flycatchers and thickheads are encountered in small flocks. I heard the long-tailed dove call and saw a female graybird.I missed two cinch shots on ground doves and got a cockatoo;this specimen showed a brown eye instead of the usual orange.They differ this way on the same island.The black-crowned(yellow bib)parquet of the larger size is pre- sent;I was unable to shoot one.Starlings are abundant;I collected seve- ral.All these small islands recently visited have an abundance of gekos They are found around the shore under the bark of dead logs;here they

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(50) are especially numerous and are often seen running in the open over the coral.We have taken a number.We returned for lunch,all having contract- ed an infernal itch which I think must come from some plant.Both G.R., and I wore shorts and golf stockings and found our ankles and calves af- fected.After lunch we skinned birds until 3 o'clock when Mr.Beck and I went over to Aikiki(Mrs.Beck and three of the boys were along)to shoot pigeons for kaikai.Mr.Beck took three land kingfishers of the common spe- cies here this morning and one blackhead.The island is about 1/2 mile long and from 100 to 500 yards wide;one end is wooded with nothing but iron- wood trees,the rest is thick bush.There were at least 1000 gray pigeons feeding in the tall trees on their favorite red berry-like fruit;many were clustered in small trees so that we could take plenty.The noise of their cooing as they were eating was like the roar of the sea.Apparently they come to this island from distant ones daily to feed.I saw no small birds,but one common ground dove;Mr.Beck took another kingfisher and a gray-backed shriek.The abundance and variety of birds on these small is- lands visited in the last few days lead me to think that Mono I., must be of later origin to have escaped population by such common small birds as the red flycatcher,thickhead,blackhead,and fantails;its distance,45 miles from the main Shortland group made the isolation complete. December 11 (Sunday) Raised anchor at 6:30 and stood out for Faisi,the steamer,mail, cold beer,a spell,and much anticipated companionship.We arrived about 1 P.M.,and learned that the Mataram is expected about 4 o'clock from Choi- seul Bay.Sure enough at 3:30 we sighted her.All including Mrs.Beck have the itch but "no matter" dictates the Delphos of the Solomons,especially with the steamer in the offing.

(51) December 11 (Sunday) Steamed to Faisi as soon as we could get the anchor up,arr- riving after lunch and learned that the Mataram is expected at 4 P.M. We anchored in the middle of a little bay opposite Faisi I.,and so were the first craft to sight the steamer.The mail came aboard after supper. G.R.,and I read ours in the smoke-room of the Mataram over cold beer. In addition to word from home in such a location we could pick up the latest dope on the Malaita"war",Norman Wheatley,deceased acquaintances of Tulagi who were thriving only two months ago when we were residents, and any Solomon scandal.The ship's officers reported a very poor passen- ger list.We were introduced to and consequently bought whiskey for"Jock" Cromar,the oldest living graduate of the brass knuckle days.He has had 45 years in the Solomons;in 1883 he was put ashore on the beach of Malai- ta with a few presents to induce the natives listen to one of the first encomiums about recruiting for the Queensland plantations;he is a dead pistol shot;knows the history of everything down here- undoubtedly be- cause there is no living person to verify his version.Anyway- we took it in. December 12 No business.Steamer day proper with letters to get off,beer, and dinner on the steamer for a change. December 13 The France is at anchor in a small bay opposite Faisi I., The entire waterway around the island is sheltered by a great reef bar- rier a couple of miles to seaward.Shortland I.,lies approximately 10 miles W of the intersection of Long.156 W.and Lat.7 S.The island is a low body of land,poorly drained with very irregular coastline,measur- ing 15 miles E X W and 9 miles N X S.676 feet is the highest altitude recorded on the chart;from our position we can see no high land:that is, more than about 200 feet.Five rivers are reported on the chart and two of them only of navigable repute for any distance.The western part of Shortland I.,is well planted;some of the coconut tracts are of 20 years standing.Fauro I.,can be seen off to the NE and the neighboring islets of Poparang,and Alu to the east.A larger island-Morgusaia is separated from Shortland by a narrow but navigable channel.There are numerous small islands lie between the Shortland group and Bougainville;Ballale is the largest;all of these are included in the mandated territory un- der the administration of Australia.G.R.,and I went into the field via Lofa Plantation which is owned(in shares of stock)by B P & Co.The pre- sent manager is Percival Bedford who helped us by showing us a trail into the bush.In extent of planted acreage this is one of the largest in this part of the group;the march to the bush itself is quite convinc- ing.We went into a low flat full of small trees and cane-like reeds. There were numerous trails which led to clearings where wood had been cut;the ground was a base of old coral mixed with red clay.Beyond this lay a steep ridge of heavily wooded coral which I tried with futile re- sult.I returned and wandered about the cane flat.I flushed four ground doves and shot one on the wing which got away.White-eyes were plentiful and proved to be of a new variety in plumage- dark bill and very white breast.I shot a red-breasted flycatcher which appears to be similar to the type found on Fauro I.Blackheads and fantails,both the brown and the black were heard,but I could not call them up.I shot a female graybird and could not find it.After lunch I went further into the bush,finding one trail that led through a narrow canyon in the ridge into a much lar- ger stretch of flat country beyond,densely wooded,many of the trees of great height and age.The birds were all in these forest monarchs(hack phrase)- the call of the mina drowned out about everything else;doves

(yabnuR) II redmeed -re,qu udona edf jag bino aw as noon aa lalad of bemjad M.3 & ju fadseqxo al manjafu edf jodi bonufi ana dorui reila phiylr row os bas.,I IofaH afieoqqo yad nifil x to elkim edf ni demona ew .reqquw redta brusda emoo lian erIl.remezuu eht sty'e oj jaro janii erl .red Dfoe revo manjafu ehi lo nooe-axwa in eho ane bae I bas.,R.O edi qu Xiqy biind, aw nalfucd i doma ni 'mon not' now oj mofisds ni eonafatupos beasool,yiianH namoK,"re"aifiam edf no oqob baedl, .dunbinr erew aw neiw oga-ading ow yino-guiviyl erew odw igahIl to feang roeq xrev a bedrogan ared'ito a'qine edf.ibonno nomofe yan bas rot."re" yemaiw ingood ylinenpuued bas, os beuborjini erew ehtjai I reu Bar uui Eh.eyab aikoury anad edf lo edanbeg guivl jaebio edi,yamori dlaa lo hsed eho no qoqas huq aww ad YUJi ni;anomofe edf ni erev 2- fril ehj to ono of nedafi cevian edf oubul of aineezig we? a didx at haeb x al,ed;anofisrnaly bnelneepK edf rot unijinvev juoda amminoone -ed yibadhuamu -ered nwoh guidjyreve lo yrosain edi ewoml;dora lodeiq dood ow -yawxA.nolsew aid yihuy of noezeg guivl-en al ered auuuo .at jl II redmeed .reed,ito jeg of mrajfel djiw reqory xab remeedK. seiland oh Ognado a rot remeja edf no rennih bas II redmeed .I lafal eiazqgo yad fiamu a ni 'orona ja al ematH edt -rad Tezy Jazqy s yd beretferia al bnafai edf bmova-yawredw eniine edi Of yiejmixoqqe aeii.,I bnelronB.brawea or eelim lo olquoo x reilx x al bnafai edt.3 Y-ded bas.W edi,moil to noifoearejai edf lo X eelim -wasem,enitascu nahi.perti yrev djiw benfarb yi'rooq,bael to ybod wof enuttjia jaedgin edf al Jeet dyo.3 X X eelim ? bas W X E eelim 3l gni i dani:bael djid en see nas ew noifaeq uwo motljtado edi no bedroger owd bas Jtano edi no.bedroget ens erevir eviLjeet SOO juoda nadt xvom to jraq nujaew edl.eomtaib yus rot ejuqer eldgivian to viio maht to erev CO to eua ajoorj junocoo edi lo emoa;betnsiq liaw at.,I bnelrona ufefal guirodgleu end bas 2M edf of lio nees ad nas.,I cnust.gnilnata bejeracea af staugrom-bnafai regnal A.Jase edi of UIA bas,gnarago to aporemum ens arenT.Iemmo eldgivan tnd wotran a yd bnafrode mo't aiflleS;eillvinigoe6 bas cwoy bnafrond end neewjed eif abnalfi fIama -mu yrodivret bedabnuw edi ni bobofuni ena asedj to ille;jtegnal edf al siv hieft edi ojui Jnew I bas.,R.O.alisJana lo noitajdainimba edi ree -erq eht.00 & P 8 yojnoja To avarde ni)bono ai dofdw moIjdanafi stod fiast x au gulwoa vo an Seqlen orm brotber lavicor? al regnan jree Jaegnal edi to ono at nids gneepce bodnq lo JreJxe ni.deud end ojui intvnoo edina al llesti daud end of noram edi;qrong edi to juag aid ni .ebeer aifl-enao bas aeest fIama lo ilu'l jafi wof x ojai Jnew eW.gni need had boow eredw agnfreio of hol noidw alisJi apodamn erew eredT aids bnuyeE.yalo ber djiw hexim faroo blo to saad a aw bwory edi;tuw er elijuL djaw beirs I noidw faroo betcow ylivven to aghir qeets x yaI bwory wotf bedantf I.jalt enso edi juoda betobnew bas hemuter I.Jins Wiljnelq erew seye-ejinW.yawg tog noiw gniw edi no ono Joda bas aovoh edida yiew bas lifd xub -epamliq ni yjei'ay won a lo ed of bevonq bas of nallua ed oo aneeqge noidw redveeqil betaneud-ben x toda I.Jasead Is bas nword edi djod,allajnei bas abseelkonlR.I owa't no lmdot qvyj eht bldgarg edaset x Jode I.qu meds lias jon binos. I jud,bused erew dolid gnilift,dauq edi cent randu'ni jnew I honui rediA.si buif Jon binco bas sel daun a oout eyhin edi ni moyaso worran a yguords bef Jant lirt one to aodm eht to yam,bobeow yleaset,tnoyed ynfnuo Jafi to dojerfe reg xonl)anotanon jaei'it enats ni Iis erew ehtf edi.ega bas jdgiad Jeeng xoal)anothon jaei'it ensas ni Iis erew ehtf edi.aga bas jdgiad Jaeng ```> [illegible] ```

(52) could be heard and I distinguished the green red-crested, the black-bib, and the yellow-bib, although the low, almost single note of the latter may be confused with the call of the more common black-bib. Hornbills and crows are present but were not heard in any abundance. I only heard one crow far away. Small birds, I could not find within range; the small white- breasted flycatcher, the red-breasted, blackheads and fantails, white-eyes and midgets- they were all high and seemed to be feeding with much acti- vity. Everything we have found before on the larger islands appears to be present except the black honeysucker and the pigmy parrot. Two of the ground doves that I saw looked small, swift in flight like quail- with fast wing-beat; and being in low ground of basic coral formation may be similar to the small, chocolate-colored ground dove taken on San Cristo- val and Santa Anna. Mr. Beck shot at one of this species in the rough co- ral up the river at Choiseul Bay. Blackbirds and starlings frequent the iron-wood trees with graybirds; these three species and the pigmy parrot are more communal than any of the other birds. As expected cockatoos, green parrots (female- red), red coconut parrots, and the "kooru" pigeons (red-knobbed and gray) are quite common. When we were walking through the coconuts along the shore we noticed a large flock of frigate birds evi- dently feeding; we remarked it was the first time we had ever seen them so low. Mr. Beck was quick in smelling them out and had put up over a do- zen by the time we returned to the ship. They proved to be lesser frigata. The thickhead of Shortland I., compares to those taken on the small islets Momulufu and Aikiki near the main island; some few of these as has been the case before showed marked whiteness or blackness of plumage, especial- ly around the neck. Probably albinism and melanism resulting from inbreed- ing, such a dominant characteristic prevailing. December 14 The Doctor, G.R., and I tramped out to the same flat behind the plantation. At the first clearing I came upon a host of birds- minas, starlings, blackbirds, and graybirds- most of them in two large iron-wood trees that towered above the surrounding bush, presenting the birds in excellent silhouette against the sky. I managed to get two black and two gray birds; the only black-bib dove I have found in range I blew to bits. The small birds in the forest beyond were all in the branches of high trees; it was all I could do with No. 10 shells to bring down a male and female flycatcher (white-breasted). This thickly wooded country is a chal- lenge to one's sense of direction and can make the compass seem crooked. And there is no water anywhere. After some fruitless wandering I return- to the cane lot and shot several white-eyes, a brown fantail, and a red- breasted flycatcher. Again I saw two ground doves without offering at them. I heard the common land kingfisher to-day; the white-headed "ku-ku" has not put in appearance or call as yet. Coming out we took a few wag- tails and a pair of coconut parrots just for bad luck.

did-wolley edj bas bna affidsoh.did-moif nommoq emoo edj To liaa and nliw hesu'ino ad eno briiil qino I.sonabanda yneai ni Bazel Jon erew ind Jnedeq ero aworo ediw llama edi;egner niniw bafi Jon blooo I,abrid ilamI.yawo re't woro soga-edlw,aifna? bas absdnafid,bors-end-lor edj,redsoqyil baanord Joa doom nliw gnilhe'r ed oj bumase bas ngin ila erew yedT -aregbia bne oj ersege sgniai negyal ed- no se'ced bmoo' avad ow gniddya've.qliv edj To oxT.Jerraq yaqiq edj bna tenneyserd ksafd edt jqoxe jreserq nliw -liama aill ingil ni 'liwa,liama bekei was I ladi novob bunoa od yan no'jsen't Inroo cjaed To Inwry woi ni gnfd bna;Jned-gniw Jast -ofrTo naa no ne'nat evoh bunora k-eoloce-efalcoode,llama edj of telimla no nguro-edj ni aelooqe eifT To eno ja jona KoeK.M.anna adnaa bas lav and dnupeziL egnilfada bna abridkoaiG.yan Inwior'd Jo a revir edj qu lart Jerraq yaqiq edj bna aelooqa serd; esenl;abridyerg nliw aseri boow-nori ,soojnXooo bejcoqxe sa.abrid reido end To yon narT lamummo eroe ara segeki,"brrox"and bas marring Jumoco bar,IJex,-ejmeljafovea negya edj dguorid gnilLaw erew ew nehi.nommoq ejiup era(yerg bas beddomi-bet) -ive abrid e'agiri To xool' egtaf a beelion ew exode edj gnola ajumooce nejd nasa.avee had ew emij JariT end saw ji hedramea ew;gnibee? y[onah -of a revo qu juq bad bas Juo medt gnilLema ni kolup saw noos.xi.noi os Jagiri' resaef ed oj bevong yedT.qirla end of bermudea ew emij end To nes sfaI llama end-no nekat soorj of aereqmon...l.bnefword To beddomid end need and aa oserd-To we't emo;Dnsfal niam ed' tean xikita bna uliLumom elseqae,eganuiq To asamioid to asenedinw beksem bewode eogTed easo end seerdi mo'i gnifluoen mainalem bna maindia yidadori.koon end Imora yi .gniffevery olhibro'carolo Janimoh a noaa,gni At redmoood edj briied Jaft smee edj oj Juo beqmaa I bna.,M.I.rojosd eniT asniI -abrid To Jaoi z noqu emoo I gnitaeio jariT end JA.noIimneiq boow-nori eya'f owd ni nerdj To Jsom -abridyerg bna,abridsoafd,agnilfada ni abrid eif gnifreseng,Jand gnihumorne edj evodo Jagerd Joni aeerj oed bna xoalid end jag oj beqnam I.yia and janlaga ejfenili'la theffoxe asid of weid I enoa ni borot eved I avoh did-xoalid yino edi:abrid yeri agid To aalon-TO end ni lia erew boxeg Jae'er end ni abrid llama edT bna elam-a neeh gnid oj allada of oh nliw of likoo I lia naw ji;oooj -faio a el yajmoo bahow yileidi siIT.(bejsaend-efiw)renlo'aoqyil olame'i bedooreg maee sanmqoo end oom Jaa bna noijeerib To canes a'eno oj egnoj -nuijoni gnifne'aen baofirni owo rejiJi erediyna nejaw of ai eredt bna -bexe bas.liaonet ngood a,seya-ediw farevea Joda bna Jol eme edj of je gnire'do Juodii. sewoi onegq,owd yea I niagA.reh'oJaqlil baJasord 'ux-ux"beheed-adlw end;yal-of vellal'yinA brai nommoq end Jased I.merid -gaw we'i a KooJ ew Juo gnimob.Jex as liae To somusseqqa ni juq Jon end .KouI had re't jauj ajoynaq Jumocoo To niaq a bna afiat

(53) December 15 Hicks joined the field party again and we all penetrated the same territory back of the plantation.I think that these white-eyes are just in a new plumage,very thick,because they are so hard to bring down with the aux even at point-blank range.The midget seems to be the same-tough as nails.Both sing out in plain view and after gleaning three or four with a dozen shots I became fed up and began to hunt for new stamp-ing ground.I went northward to the end of the coconuts and got into a grassy draw that ran between two ridges.There were a number of cattle paths;one of these tracks through the tall swale,matted ferns and weeds took me well into the bush where I found myself walking on an old trail. Probably left by the natives who are very nearly defunct on this island. The D.O.informs us that there are not more than a dozen pure-blooded people left.Many years ago they were completely ravaged by the vigorous Mono men who slew many and carried the rest off in bondage.Rumors of a still large and thrivingly heathen village have been wafted from the center of Shortland,probably untrue.Although one old man who ran away from Lofung plantation years ago has been reported at various times to be leading a comfortable life somewhere in the interior.There is also a ru- mor of a lake.Both have not yet revealed themselves to the patrols of O.H.M.S.Miller.More of this later.Following the old cuttings for a mile I shot a blackhead and a red-bellied flycatcher.This is the best collect-ing ground I have struck.Minas and red-breasted doves and the omnivorous "kooru"pigeons,the red-knobbed and the gray were feeding in the tops of the tall timber,dropping the shucks of their delectable repast everywhere. I flushed a common ground dove getting a good look at it and nothing else. In the after noon I shot another blackhead and a hawk,apparently one of the blue-backed variety,but could not find it.Many birds slip away from us in this mysterious manner;they are knocked down and then manage to crawl or flutter off to die.In repeated doses these misses try the spirit and can only be purged by a selected and vociferous exhalation of profanity.Strange to relate I came upon the same hawk in about the same vicinity later and added it to the collection.Compensation came also in the ap- proach of one lone crow which came almost immediately to my crafty calling He was shot and proved to be much larger than the species taken to date on the larger islands to the southward.Differing from the Choiseul type,the beak is entirely black and the iris a peculiar whitish color.I tried to stalk a hornbill several times without avail;he,too,may be different.I think that the birds here are closer to the Fauro species than any other. It seems doubtful that Bougainville can be represented although Shortland is part of the same volcanic arc.Certainly it is older- that is,above the surface of the sea longer;for there are two active volcanoes on Bougain- ville while Shortland is unusually low,poorly drained and shows evidence inland of age-old coral deposition.The only good water gushes up in cool springs.We all spent a cool evening at the D.O.'s with beer and conversa- tion.He(Mr.Miller)is a well-educated product of Warwickshire and has put in quite a term in the Gilbert Is.He told us that the original Shortland natives,known as Alu people,were wiped out by the braves from Mono and to his knowledge only one survivor is still living.Long before that the first settlers on the island were migrants from Mono.The cross-bred remains of this population now live on the salt water in scattered villages,fearing to venture any distance inland because of the story of a"lost village" and its savage inhabitants that is still supposed to be in existence some- where in the interior.He said that the run-away labor boy is reported to be surviving on his own in the back country as he has been for over four years.He verified our observations concerning the drainage and mentioned several fine springs,some very large.He has patrolled through the island

[illegible]

(54) to the other side opposite Faisi with foreign police boys and carriers who knew nothing about the legend. December 16 Returned to the trail I found yesterday.G.R.,and the Doc set off to another landing place in the bay of our anchorage where the bush comes down close to the beach.I went in about two miles by noon getting two blackheads and a thickhead.Then it rained,but my collecting continued under a leaf shelter made of the huge leaves of what looks like a banana tree(without the fruit).I found two unusual walking sticks and a few snails.For the past three days I have been picking up spiders as I go along and have found six species represented as has been the case on all the larger islands visited.Returning I bagged a hornbill by very clever deception,a couple of brown fantails,and a striped hawk similar to those of Bagga I.Of all the birds the brown fantail comes most readily to call- ing,- strange that the black is not as susceptible.There is no variation in the hornbill;at least,no visible difference.Both the crow and the horn- bill were males evidently looking for mates,which explains how readily they came to my somewhat questionable calling.The kau-kau of the crow is easily imitated but the low,grating noise of the"bena "is hard to fake. In the evening of this day there was argument on board the France. December 17 Raised anchor at 8 A.M.after Mr.Beck had closed business with B P's,the Faisi Branch,more execrably run than ever by M.Jennings,an in- significant ass.Father Shank,a R.C.missionary of the Society of Mary is a passenger to Kieta,the southern port of entry to the Mandated Territory of New Guinea.Stood out on a NE course- 60 miles.The last few days have been very hot,sea calm with no evidence of the touted NW gales.A good rain squall cooled us off.Anchored when dark about two miles south of Koramira, the Father's mission station.The Catholics have been here as an organiza- tion over 22 years- longer than any official government.Good Master Shank expressed great trepidation for our safety from the NW storms.None came. December 18 A clear day dawned and offered some fine views of the Kron- prinzen Giberge.Passed numerous salt-water villages and a few plantations. Entered Kieta harbor at 4 P.M.,the ensign flying.Messr.Alday,Ryan,and Goad came aboard to administer entry- Customs Officer,Postmaster,and Medical Assistant.The Doc,G.R.,Capt.Lang,and I went ashore and had kai-kai at Wong Sei's,a pleasant repast and change. December 19 It rains every afternoon during this moon.Jan.and Feb.have the heaviest average rainfall of the year- the breaking of the NW monsoon.Mr. Beck interviewed Major McAdam,the D.O.We can collect anything but must have permits to carry guns;these were requested from Rabaul via wireless. December 20 This morning Mr.Beck proposed that the Doc,G.R.,and I collect Bougainville while he takes the ship to Rabaul,New Britain for much-needed repairs.This should be the most interesting experience so far.Penetration will be easy.The Germans in their administration revealed the characteris- tic genius for organization and thoroughness.There are many roads,one that goes practically all the way around the island.An expedition started from Arawa,just above Kieta,and shot its way right across to the other salt- water,leaving a permanent track that is in frequent use to-day.This is probably the way we shall go in.Kieta is smaller than Tulagi in population but greater in area;a wide shore road connects the scattered residences, stores and offices.Ebery & Walsh are the only white merchants.In six years

and the other, and he was very happy to see them. The first thing that struck me was the fact that they were all dressed in white. They looked like angels from heaven. I couldn't believe my eyes. I walked up to one of them and asked her name. She smiled at me and said, "Hello! My name is Mary." Then she introduced me to the others. We started talking about everything under the sun. We laughed until our sides hurt. It was such a wonderful day! When we finally had to leave, I felt sad that our time together was coming to an end. But I knew that this wasn't goodbye forever. I promised myself that I would come back soon and visit them again. And so I did. Every year since then, I have returned to see my new friends. They always greet me with open arms and warm smiles. We spend hours catching up on each other's lives. It's like old times all over again. I'm grateful for these precious memories. They remind me of what truly matters in life: friendship, love, and happiness.

(55) the Australian Administration has accomplished much more than the Bri- tish in the Solomons Protectorate.They had the solid foundation of the Germans to build on and set about opening the country by peaceful pene- tration so that now only the very central and most mountainous areas are colored"unknown"on the government map;when they started,only the coast for a distance of five or ten miles inland was considered safe. Their predecessors were bent upon the commercial development first,and they used the natives in achieving what they did.Penetration occured only when a scientific party shot its way across the island on one or two occasions and in retaliation for native reprisals which came,swift and vindictive.At present,practically all of the Buin district at the south end,north to Arawa and diagonally across the island from there (striking the west coast about fifteen miles below the volcano Bagana) has been opened.Meaning that one of the head men of each village has been appointed kukurai(luluai)or government representative and,if possi- ble,another man,who savvies pidgin,appointed tultul(interpreter).This is the first step and is accompanied with gratuitous gifts like axes,bush knives,tobacco,and seeds from His Beneficient Britainic Majesty.The sec- ond is the advent of the tax levy of ten shillings per year per head. Later after some of the village have spent time in the district hospi- tal for treatment one of the brighter patients is kept three months af- ter being discharged during which time he is trained in the rudiments of bush medicine.Then he returns to the village sporting a blue,peaked cap with a red cross insignia.He is the medical tultul.The other tultul has two thin red stripes on his cap,and the kukurai one thick one.This pro- cess would take from six months to a year for each village after which they are visited once or twice a year by a police patrol tax-collecting, and once a year,if they are lucky,by a medical patrol.In this way the most remote bushmen are gradually brought into contact with the white men.On the whole this is a weakening thing because the young men and even the meris leave the home of their ancestors to work on plantations, for the government,or as servants in one of the coastal ports.However, many enterprizing youths working on plantations come from unopened dis- dicts whence they return after their three years indenture is up to tell fabulous tales and become big men.I must not forget to mention the Marist Catholic Mission which was the first force of white civilization on Bougainville and Buka.The Methodist and 7-Day Adventist have since put in their ears much to the annoyance of everyone else,although the latter are quite harmless.Numbers of natives are employed by two larger societies in their propagation of the faith and in their commercial enterprizes.Most traders,recruiters,plantation managers,etc.,have plenty of toleration for the Catholics,who have a reputation for fair-play and kindness and a broad-minded viewpoint.All are unanimously hateful of the Wesleyan brethern(Methodist)composed of ex-waiters and vaudeville comedians who practice extortion on the innocent natives and selfish crookery in their business methods.For such a piebald coterie of jack- a-napes have the original martyrs of religion(Christianity)in these islands died.Each Mission has its own method which is not published; the Catholics have it over the others like a tent.Most of the Fathers are French but I learn that there are two Americans- Wade from Providence, R.I.,and Connolly,who chose the Church over a career as a professional baseball player(probably a Holy Cross graduate). To return to the government- the patrols operate to map the vil- lages in each district,their populations,and general attitude toward the No.I Kiup(District Officer).Medical patrols take health census and dispense medicines,the principal one being injections of NAB for yaws. Any serious cases of illness they reouse to the hospital.The police pa-

(56) trol includes twenty armed police boys,mostly from New Guinea,and one police officer.He is under orders not to fire except in absolute nec- essity.Attacks are very infrequent and not the rule;they are occa- sioned by fear or in indignant retaliation for the trouble some for- mer white visitor has inflicted.The usual thing is to enter a new vil- lage and find it wholly deserted except,perhaps,for a few old men,meris and children.Much of this was imparted by company at the home of Messrs Ebery & Walsh where G.R.,Doc,and I had dinner.Mr.Samson,a patrol office who was just recently shot in the ankle from ambush while attempting to enter the village of Mingetta in the Bagana district is recuperating there.Major McAdam,the D.O.visited the France to-day. December 21 Very heavy rains to-day.By visiting the store and chatting with everybody,we have picked up much local knowledge concerning trails, natives,carriers,etc.Traders and missionaries come in and each one has something casually to offer.The steamer SS Marsina is expected on the 23rd or 24th.All of us have been writing letters,and of much weight and opinion. December 22 The Doc and I visited the hospital where Mr.Goad,the medi- cal assistant showed us around a rather good plant,for natives.For the first time I saw some really bad cases of yaws.We gatherd more local dope by talking to him and reading reports of medical patrols.He pre- sented us with a dozen bottles of metyl spirits containing about 25 specimens of snakes,lizards,one iguana showing the dorsal scales,a few fish,some insects- mostly ugly centipedes.Gun permits to collect(really to carry a gun),which were sent for to Rabaul a few days ago arr- rived to-day.This law is in effect to protect the natives from vio- lence by possible vigilante parties in retaliation for offence.Major McAdam said we could shoot anything;there are no protected birds on Bougainville.G.R.,walked over the hill to Arawa plantation,which we hope will be our base,to interview Mr.Esson,the manager. December 23 The Doc and I purchased all the required stores for our trip at the lone store of Ebery & Walsh.In the afternoon we paid ano- ther call on Mr.Goad at the hospital. December 24 The Marsina came in about 9 A.M.Numerous small craft are in Kieta harbor to pick up mail and Sydney or Rabaul shipments of goods.Among them is the A.V.Marqueen from Marqueen or Mortlocks I., which is peopled by semi-Polynesians.George,our mate,who has a sincere interest in the migrations of his people,was not slow in making friends with the boat's crew.Mr.Chinnery,chief government anthropolo- gist for the territory paid us a call which resulted in some very interesting information.He has been in Rabaul for over 20 years,advis- ing about methods of penetration and native control.He has done all kinds of this work but stays in Rabaul most of the time now to give the young men a chance.Gregory Bateson(Cantab.)who was with Beebe on the Arcturus venture,is one of his present assistants.These young scholars go into newly penetrated country and remain in close asso- ciation with the natives for a year or more until they have derived all the ethnological dope they can.Then they return to England or Australia to publish.This means they must acquire a knowledge of the local language,an unearthly undertaking.Fox is the best example I can think of,and it took him ten years to gather the stuff he has put

Think of me, and I'll be back to you in two weeks. I'm sorry for the inconvenience, but this is just how it goes. Please don't forget to sign your name at the bottom of this letter.

(57) into"Threshold of the Pacific".Mr.Chinnery had great things to say about the gold fields up in Aitipe on the Eadie Creek.Real pay dirt and completely baffling all hitherto dicta about where,geologically, gold should be found.All of it is around 6000 feet,reached by the toughest sort of climbing.Airplane service has been established and is doing splendidly.It costs more to fly in than out(a consideration for corpses).He was also eloquent about the possibilities of bird- life in New Guinea,rapidly getting ripe for collecting.How many dif- different kinds.What beautiful plumage.And the means- three immense ri-vers:the Sepik,navigable for 600 miles with a vessel like the France. The Fly,also navigable for 150 or 200 miles.And the Ramu,navigable for 200 miles.There is another large river which empties at Brecher (Broken Water)Bay and the Ranu and Markham rivers,all giving ready access to the vast interior.But on most of them there are expanses of swamps where the culex,stegomia,and anopheles are"simply shock- ing",particularly the Sepik.He left us to depart on the Marsina en route to some scientific congress in Hobart,New Zealand.The New Guinea natives must be studied in the next fifty or hundred years or not at all because of the possibilities of disintegration and even extinction. The birds will last,as they have in all other places,and it is high time that the American Museum began to think about collecting systemati- cally on New Guinea.The possibilities of penetration with safety are very great now,enough for collecting purposes;and being extended every year. December 25 (Our Lord's Day) Everyone celebrated Christmas.Both the store and wireless office,not to mention the government offices,were closed.In the early morning Chinatown fired off salvos of firecrackers.All the crew of the France went over to a plantation owned by a Samoan lady for a sing-sing and general bust-up.The Mono pig was killed and Teora cooked a lavish dinner for evening kai-kai.Liquers were served but no songs or poems read(no bard sang).Sentiment was well maintained when some few simple presents were distributed amongst us.All the collecting gear has been assembled for the start tomorrow.We met our host,Mr.Esson to-day.He gave G.R.,a very hospitable evening and is a most likeable person.He will accompany us on the ship around to Arawa bay. December 26 Delays about a clearance permit and the arrival of Mr.Esson prevented an early departure.Hove up about 9:30,arriving at Arawa bay at II.We all had lunch on board.The boys landed everything in two boat- loads and the France promptly set sail for Rabaul.Luckily all the stuff was under a boat shed on the beach before a heavy afternoon rain.Later everything was moved into the plantation store where it can be arranged for transport and checked.The Doc,G.R.,and I were shown to comfortable quarters in Jock's house,which is characteristically on a hill where one has a lovely view of the sea and mountains.In the afternoon we talk- ed to the tultul from Amie village who did not seem very enthusiastic about getting carriers.Mr.Esson used his best tactics of persuasion;the lad did not savvy Kupei,which we intend to make our highest camp. December 27 The SS Maiwara suddenly appeared a day ahead of her sched- ule,an unheard of thing for a BP inter-island boat,which entailed much rousing on the part of Jock to get his copra loaded.He went over to Kieta to sign on some new boys,and we spent the day sorting supplies and packing them for the trip up the mountain.We intend to leave almost half here at Arawa to be sent for when we need it.Jock will be our agent.There is nothing he will not put himself out to do for us.

(58) December 28 More work making up bundles.A 50 lb.bag og rice is missing; probably left on board the France.No carriers reported this morning as expected so G. R.,and I went up the mountain trail and visited three vil- lages- Chiai,Sirwana,and Amio.At the first one the medical tultul joined us and took us over to Sirwana where we picked up the local kukurai and tultul as interpreters to Amio.This is an excellent example of the di- diversity of language on Bougainville.These three places are not more than three miles from one another.At Amio we were enlightened about the non- appearance of carriers:their village is a couple of miles off the moun- tain trail that leads to Kupei.Indeed the men of Kupei were once bitter enemies of the Amio warriors and tradition inspires a somewhat frigid atmosphere between the two.Berenge,the Sirwana tultul offered to procure "plenty fella kanaka" and have them down at the plantation tomorrow morn- ing.A bargain- and we returned,guided by the old"doctor tultul"from Chiai. It was well after dark when we got in with much wind and rain.Jock was about to"make bello"which would summon his labor line to organize a search party. December 29 The first contingent of carriers came up the hill to Jock's house about 8 A.M.Berenge,the trusted tultul,was with them.proven faith- ful.The Doc had already been down to the store tying in loose ends and all the safari needed was locomotion.Three boys from Arawa(Kakarika)vil- lage on-the-salt-water have jumped at the chance to accompany us- Waggi, who holds a brief as a cook,having worked for a Captain Jolly in Rabaul. He will be boss-boy over three youths,Kokeri,Kelas,and Monto- cook-boy, wash-boy,camp-boy,and a personal attendant for each of us.It is doubtful that we shall keep them all.As we were getting the first of the packs out and the kanakas were busy lashing them to liwoi(wooden poles),another bunch put in appearance,about 25 in all.Chiai,Sirwana,Monkontoro,and Kaino were represented.The villages we saw yesterday were quite small, the male population numbering about 10 or 15.The caravan was put under way- G.R.,and I up ahead and the Doc bringing up the rear.Over 30 car- riers,including the little monkeys who carried odd stuff;and stretched out for about 300 yards.We entered the bush at the spear-line back of the plantation at II o'clock.When they got under way the kanakas stepped right out sothat we carrying only our guns had difficulty keeping up. No rain all day but the trail was very slippery anyway.The wonderful prehensile power of his big,splayed toes is the secret of the bushman's performance on a steep trail in six inches of mud with one end of a pole on his shoulder,loaded with not more than 120 lbs.(govt.regulation).They do carry 160 lb.copra bags full-up down to Jock to sell them.They rested just once all the way to Kaino(about 6 miles),crossing four good wide rivers with plenty of quick water and boulders.Here we set up camp in the house kiup(govt.rest house,built by the village and reserved for the use of patrols).Well-fixed before the rain started.All the men came over to have a yarn and we traded tobacco and marks(shillings),Teutonic sur- ival,for raffia arm-bands.All the carriers from villages roundabout fin- ish their trek here.We must send for the tultuls of villages higher up toward Kupei to get on tomorrow.Waggi,who we call Baki,showed he could cook and we spent a comfortable night on the bark floor.All the houses for sleeping up this way are built on poles;cook-houses and common-use- of-all buildings set on the ground.Drainage seems to be the principal reason for this.Mosquitoes were scarce. December 30

December 30 reason for ths. alld to eodiupeaM. 20

(59) December 30 No carriers appeared on account of heavy rain.I started out for Kupei with a tultul who arrived from somewhere and we met all the Kupei men on the trail.I returned and the tultul went on to stir up other villages.The Doc decided to carry on to Kupei by himself to break ground.In the afternoon a note,written in burnt-match on newspaper in- formed us that Kupei was only about four miles distant-"Come on".Willing carriers miraculously appeared,the monkeys grabbed the smaller stuff, and we were off.We were forced to leave a box of food,a bag of rice,and two packed benzine tins;these will be guarded by two of our personal boys and brought up in the morning.We reached Kupei in time for evening kai-kai.The Doc had fixed up the old house kiup with a ladder and a sac-sac(leaves sewn together)wind-break to shelter the sleeping compart- ment which was open to the weather when he arrived.A smaller house stands across the trail which we shall use as a laboratory,cook-shack,and boy's sleeping quarters.The altitude is only 2300 feet but from here on the trail goes right up incessantly to the top.Kupei village is located on an opposite ridge,voiding us of all pigs,children,and smells. The view is very fine- Arawa bay and the peninsular that shelters Kieta. Water from a cold mountain stream is close by.The kukurai of Kupei was loath to have us stay at first.Through the tultul he told the Doc that there were no birds about and that we had better stay at Kaino.By much diplomacy and the present of a bush knife,the old man warmed up to our visit and even sent over some cooked taro.The boys of Kupei are a stur- dy lot and should make fine bird-retreivers.The prevailing cost of car- riers was one mark per man for each trek.Many who were on the ends of extra heavy boxes demanded two,which they got- mean pay considering the condition of the trail.One stretch went up beside a waterfall for about a hundred feet sheer.The government patrol pays them sixpence and they can do nothing but accept it.Since it is so important to acquire their coooperation we gave them tobacco as well and they went away happy.All the men of Kupei visited us before nightfall.There were a dozen old men- most picturesque,sans clothes,sans teeth,sans everything.Except the in- evitable clay pipe.Besides Kupei there are three villages on correspond- ing ridges all within a radius of a half mile.The night made one think of Vermont or the Adirondacks,so cold and clear. December 31 Collecting officially commenced this morning.

December 30 ...betjaja I.niaa yvaed to jnuocoo o hetaeqqa eteiruao eni edi [ie jam ow bna ererwemae aort' bevitta orv iufijuj a niiv lequK-?ol "qu xija oj ne tnew iufijuj edi bna hemjfer T.llajj edj ne nem lequK ...aard uj lfeamid yd lequK of ne yrnso oj behiob od edt.seealiv renjeo -ni teqqdawen ne dojam-jnued ni aodjiw,etor a noomredla edi ni.dnuory niiilW."no smoC"-jnajtib eelim quon' juode yino new lequK janj an hemryl ...luta yeflama eni beddary ayeknom edt.hetaeqqa ylauofucrim eteiruao bna,eair lo gad a,boel lo xod a evael oj beort? erew eW.lT? erew ew bna lamorep rno lo owd yd behrang od iliiv saedj;anij enixned bedeqq owj grineve rol emij ni lequK hedsoed eW.grinmon edi ni qu jdgurw bna eyae peye a bna rebhai a dtiiv quik saued bio edi qu haxit' han ood edt.fak-lan ...taqmoo gniquefa edi rejiade oj Kxord-bniw(redjugod nwoa sevael)ona-ona sanod relIama A.bevitra en nenw redjaew edi ej neqo aaw dofdw jnoe ...Noada-Kooo yrotjyodei a na san ilida ew dofdw SiatT' edi aroea ahnere aort jad feot COG3 yino ni shu5illa edi.ateiump gniquefa a 'voo bna ni egalliv lequK.qoj edi ut yijnsaeenii qu jngil, seeg liaru edi no erex aliema bna,nexblido,agiq iia lo su gnibiov,egbir sfibeqgo na no bejacof sjeiA erejiada jad' rafuaneinq edi bna yad swrK-?eni yrev ai weiv edT ...aw lequK lo iarwkid edT.yd saeio ai maerja niajnom bloo a aort' redaj jadj ood edi bluj en iufijuj edi dguorNT.janil ja ysta an evan oj djaoi douw yE.oniaK ja ysta 'ejjed han ew janj bna juode abrjd on erew etejt ...wo ej qu henaw nem bio edi,elim hand a lo tneaeqp edi bna yoamlqib -tuja a eus lequK lo aqed edT.ort' bekoce emoa revo jcea nove bna jieiv -tac lo jaoo gnillave-rp edT.errevierter-brid eniT ekam bivada bna joj y: ...?o abne edi no erew orw ynaiK.xev't does xol nam req niam ono aaw ete' eni gnirebianoo yaq naem -joq yedj doliw,owt behnameh sekoQ yvaed wixoe juode yoj iif'rejaw a ebiaed qu tnew dojerja enO.llarj edi lo noijibmoo ...yeri bna coneqxia medi ayaq iordsu jnemmrevoq edT.reeda joel behnum a tiend erinpoa oj tnai-roqi ni ai ji eomiA.ji jqecea jud gnidjon ob nao fiiA.yqqad yawa tnew yedi bna fiew aa cooadoj medi evay ew noijareqoo nem bio neseb a erew eredT.llajdgin erolel an sejiav lequK lo nem edi -ni ani jqeox2.gnidjyreve enaa,ijeed anaa,aenJolo enaa,oupaemJoip jaee bnqcerroo no segalliv eemdj era eredt lequK aebiaed.eqiq yalo eidajive knidj ono ebam jdgin edT.elim 'lad a lo auibar a ninjiw iis negbir gai ...raelo bna bloo oa,akabnoribA edi yo jnemreV'lo IK vedmsoel ...ntivun eini becenmae y.llafolliie gnitoolio

(60) December 31 The area we have chosen for this trip seems to be excellent judging from the number of bird calls we heard on the way up; plenty of common varieties were seen- mina, kingfishers, shrikes, blackbirds, crows, hornbills, long-tailed doves, red-breasted doves, and gray pigeons. After the day's effort we decided to team up on the climbing, G.R., and myself alternating while the Doc remains in camp to lead in the taxidermy and to be ex cathedra director. In case of a paucity of skins any number of small stuff like white-eyes flycatchers can be taken right around the government rest house. I reached 5200 feet in my first venture and found the avifauna most interesting but intermixed with fog, cold ,and rain. The trail is a goat path with practically no level walking until you reach about 4800 feet. At 3200 there is a little look-out with an admirable view of the surrounding country, the coast, and outlying islands- provided there is no fog. This range of mountains (Kronprinzen Gebirge) runs generally NW X SE draining into precipitous ravines, forming many streams that flow rapidly over rocky bottoms, cold and clear. Along the trail up to Kupei we crossed four good-sized ones; some wonderful scenery, the water tumbling over the edge of great crags and boiling into a shaded caldron below. Real Midsummer Night's Dream bowers with dripping moss and dark, watery caverns. Above the camp the trail winds through thick bush following a giddy ridge that takes you right over the range. Above 4000 there are two additional spots that offer majestic views. Looking straight out- the sea; to the right and left- parallel ridges and the green woods way down. Usually, however not much is visible because of the fog which sifts in ghostly fashion through the dank moss-hung trees, blown by a restless wind. The bush off the trail (and down), which is itself unusually wide, is the most forbidding I have yet encountered. The sloping ground is uneven and full of sink holes, rotting logs and bamboo, and roots. Everything is covered with heavy moss or long-leaf plants and drips cold. Bamboo and tree liana form a fretwork that is often impenetrable. Without these bushmen to retrieve the fallen birds we should lose about a third. Their eyes are marvellous and they can go down a sheer bank with incredible speed where a white man would have difficulty crawling; and they find the bird. Lord, the amount of time I have wasted in fruitless searching on these islands. Even the monkeys (kids) are expert. They beat any dog ever bred. It shows what a relative thing human intelligence is. A question of environment. The plantation manager expects the native to exhibit immediate adaptation to the work on a coconut patch; they invariably tell us that the natives are stupid to the point of imbecility as a race. Certainly untrue. They may be morally deficient, but their mentality is as good as ours for its environment. They have no need to count to a thousand or to register interest in foreign trade when they are at home in their villages. As soon as the white man has to depend upon them for help in the bush he realizes how the native uses his natural environment. He knows the woods and vines that are useful, all birds and animals and their habits, and is thoroughly at home. In this sort of situation the white man stumbles around with only enough sense to ask the native what to do when a puzzle or difficulty arises. We are all victims of the "suspended response" when it comes to mental work. In addition to retrieving they often point out birds sitting that we should never see; and while retrieving the hunter can keep a watch out for others. Among the birds I took to-day were two thrushes; there were about 20 in all. On Jan. 8, 1928 the Doc had a bad dose of gastric malaria. At this time after seven days shooting we had 217 skins representing 33 species.

there were about 20 in all. a watch out for others.A.mong the birds I took to-day were two thrushes; ging that we should be careful of them; and, while referring to their come men of note in.W. Lajmon of notibbda is a place in our vicinity, it when "samopas"edbedbededanaa of the"W. asairi yjlozilld or elzuq a s ahen o o j sah w evih eht tak ot of shenehugyuhwihw and eidmuajta mm nan htiw eht noijautja fo troe ahit ni.In. emomd yjhj ai nd ,ajludbaehd naa aamniad nad abrid lii dirdli,Iuau are tnat aniv adboow eht in qloip of men thoe deopbde ot aan nam ehjw eht as noos aa.A. aeegilae their home at hame when they were beth in foreigner's ni tserejni retaiger ot or the in that for behl mem thuqou dneep fo aah nam ehjt as noos aa.A. aeegilae. jAt.aiaJamaic cirjaig to osob of had a had a doc had 8,1928 on Jan 20 - epe cleer this time after seven ayad shoochni eve we hah SIZ axime repereenijing 35

(61) FIELD NOTES OF BOUGAINVILLE I. Note: Since I found very little time for writing sensibly in the two bush camps maintained from December 3I, 1927 - February IO, 1928 by Dr. F.P.Drowne,G.Richards,and H.Hamlin,I wrote up the entire experience while at Arawa Plantation awaiting the arrival of the France from Sama- rai,Papua,where she had been undergoing repairs. The situation at Kupei is ideal for collecting since it is locat- ed approximately at the midpoint of two"Bird zones",the elevation being 2300 feet.By descending the trail from the camp one can find a half doz- en branch trails leading to nearby villages;these tracks circle the feet of the ridges that lead up to the top of the range and give access to to the birds of the lower and middle"zone"(1500-3000);this would include most of the avifauna between Kupei and the shore excepting the shore and salt-water birds per se.Ascending the trail,which passes right through our front yard,and reaches a maximum altitude of 5200 feet on top of the mountain,the species encountered begin to vary about $ mile up- 3000 feet.The brown and black fantails give way to the ashy-gray fantail;the yellow(black-bib)thickhead is replaced by the drabber moun- tain variety(the calls of the two are distinctly different);and the yel- low-bib dove,black-winged pigeon,white throated pigeon,and green parra- keet make their appearance.Proceeding higher additional species are en- countered- the warbler,and above 4000 the red-breast and thrush.So we are in excellent position to penetrate both"zones"while concentrating on the higher.G.R.,and I alternate in daily trips to the top and as far down on the other side as our legs warrant.Thus each man is fresh for his climb and can work faster and better.There was never a day in camp when anyone could rest from bird-skinning.The Doctor remained constant- ly at the bench.The daily catch was augmented by the hunting of two natives- Waggi and Tutepe(the former the official cook for the outfit). They would rumage the area around Kupei in half-day jaunts and often bring in excellent material;indeed,the only specimen of the much-desired pitta or ground thrush was taken by Tutepe.G. R.,has a worthy assistant in Ona,a youngster of 10,who is the son of the Kupei kukurai.My compa- nion,bird-retriever,spotter,etal.,is called Wagga-a youth of about I5. He can climb anything that grows.Both Waggi and Tutepe never go out un- accompanied;there are always at least two young monkeys with each eager for the work of retrieving in hopes that the hunter may shoot a common gray pigeon which they can take home to the kai-kai pot.The personnel of the camp-followers is ever changing.Sometimes a monkey(often called "maggi")goes up with the altitude party for a day;Ona and Wagga have been the two regulars.In aweek's time they knew exactly what was expect- ed of them although neither could speak a word of pidgin.They were well worth their tobacco(a stick a day).When I happened on the only"yellow- legged ground pigeon"I had a lad with me from one of the distant villag- es who was quite untutored in white folkways;he was somewhat nonplussed by my activity and rather slow to savvy his job,but he seemed to bring good fortune.It was very rainy and cold;I was in low spirit and much cha- grined by the day's luck.Suddenly we flushed this large bird and it was promptly shot and retrieved.When the kid showed it to me I thought I im- mediately recognized a common red-knobbed pigeon and so gave it to him for kai-kai.This rara avis would have been cooked whole and digested if the Doctor had not happened to see it when we got back to camp.All the local natives remarked that"this fella stop too much along mountain- no got plenty".

.I ALIVNIACUS YO ASTOR DREF ost adj ni yidianes gnijiw no? amit ejiili yrew banot i comi: :ejok .yd vd UYI.OI {xwude? - YSEI,I2 redneod norl benidanem egmac neod conefexze otiine edi qo oJorv I,niisai.H bus,ubraniof.9,ewnoe.F.F -smal mori conari edi lo lavima edi gnijawa noicainil awa'i ja elin :erlaqer gnigrebmu neod bad edi evad,auga?,tar -jacel ai si comia gnijeiloo yoi laabi ai iequii ja eoliantie edi giled molavere edi, "enox brid"owj lo jnioqbia edi ja tiasewixcugqa bo sob lian a hnil nso ono qna edi mori lixyj edi galbnessed (G.tee! OGE edi alofic aisui: saedo;segaliiy ydreen oj gnihael afixt donaid ne eecoom evig.bna eyuor edi lo qoc edv oj qu haef iadu neghir edi lo Jeet biew aird;(OOO-OOI)"enox"eibbis bna rewol edi lo abrid edi oj oj edi gnijqece evade edi bna iequii neewjed anustiva edi lo taom ebofui gyin nesaq doife,{liar}ed? gnihneoui.ea rasq abrid redw-iiaa bus,esroo no Jeet OGE2 lo eudjila munixan a nadoner bna,brex Jnorl mo dgwoitd elim z Juode yrav oj niger berefnuoono neipoga edi,nindweim edi lo qod yadg-yiiae edi od yav evig aifasma? ksoid bna mwond edi,Jeet OOG -qu -muo! reddnb edit yd besaigen hi baedkoird(did-kaofd)welfey edi:lijsae' foy edi bna;(jnovellib yidonjaib eva owt edi lo aifao edi)yceitav nias -arraq neerg bna,moegiq bejaordj ejinl,moegiq begniw-kaofd,woh did-woi -mu eik aaidoeqa fanojihba vedgit gnibesoori,conamqpa niat axan Jesk ew od.dahvb bma Jager-bex edi OOO4 evode bna,reldrav eid -berefnwoo emirzneomoo oildw"enox"nuod eJertaneq oj noiciaoq jneifocxe ni ezr n'as bna,qo?edi of spirit yliai ni oJanredia i bna, W.D.reldid edi no ro! neerl ai nan doob audi.Jnvwrew egel tuo an eife reido edi no mwob qmao ni gabu-reven aaw erod!.redded bna redent know nao bna dalfo ald -jnatjoea benlamey rodooc edi.gniunika-brid nori Jaer biioo enogya nedw ewd lo gnismud edi yd befnsgyus aaw noceo yliaf edi.doned edi ja yi .(jiJiao edi rot xooo lafoiito edi :arro? ent)eqeuff bna !yuoli-eovliac nejto bus etnait zab-lied ni lequii hnwora nera edj eganuu biioo yenT erfese-daan ent lo menbieoga yino ead;eebni;laifoejan jneifocxe ni gnuld junaiiana yJiyeow a aan,H.O.eqesut yd rexat aaw diwudi hmory no azoic -maqmoo ya,iazukun iequI edi lo nea edl si odw,OL lo rejaymooy a,zod ni .GI juode lo djruv a -aggaW beifao aiJ. laje,nestoeqo,revoirder-brid,noi -mu Juo og reven egedut bus jngew nio8.awong Janj gniddyna dalfo nao eh dayne:dumo ndiw-eyekum gnobf owt Jesei ja ayawla exa:evadi;beifnqoooa nomnoo a jooba yea redmu edi Janj seqed ni guiveifter lo xrow ent rot fonqanreod edt.jqq iak-lad edi of emol ekaJ nao yedi daidw moegiq vaxv beflee nejt?)ydnam a seifromoO.gnignao nevea si etwowiff-qnac edi lo evad agyaw bna enO;yaB a rot yjyaq ebujifa edi ndiw qu seo3"(lgeas" Joeseqe aaw Jadw yiJoaxe wemi-yadi amit a'leewa ni.analugen ed? edi need Ifew etow yadi,migbiq lo brow aiaoea biioo redjen jmuontfa nedd lo be -welfey"yino edi no beneqqan i nedW.(yaB a koida eJ)conadei nledt Jmrow -galliv Junaiih enti lo ono morl em ndiw bal a bad I'moeiq hnwqg beggel benariqen danwesoo aaw ed;ayawliof eidw ni benojnwo efup aaw enw ad gnind of benees an Jod,doJ ain yvvae of wola renjay bna ydviiton ya yd mo daum but jirqa wol ni aw I;dloo bna quiar yrew aaw ti.emudrei boog aaw ji bna brid eyjai aind badouli ew yinabhu8.dani e'yaB edi yd benire mi i Jngooni i en oJ si bewonahil edi noW.beveiger bna jone jitqmoy mid oj si evag on bna moegiq beddenk-bex nommoa a herinqueed yfedaihun fi bereagib bna eiftn hedeco:need eyan bdow aiya suaT aidl,lak-lak rot edi 11A.yna-er doad Jog ew nedin ji see of beneqqan lon bad rojcod edi on.-alajnum gnola doom oJ qoja aifei aind Jad? beixner eovlian fscot "yenuiq Jot"

(62) Without native help we should have been about one half as efficient. Dr.D acts as director of the whole enterprize remaining in camp all the time.His particular function is the most important of all.He makes up most of the skins;G.R.,and I do most of the skin- ning on our alternate days at the bench.This system has proven most successful.The Doc and I put up nearly fifty birds of various kinds from warblers and midgets to pigeons and crows.The average bag from the upper region is about 20-25 specimens.Rain and fog have hampered the work considerably but we have been unusually fortunate for this time of year.The rainfall for last January in Kieta was 36";we have not has a sixth of that amount.The register shows more average rain fall for Jan.,and Feb.,than any other part of the year. After breakfast the hunter is off and the two native col- lectors assemble their respective gangs and set out with a dozen shells apiece until lunchtime.They only have one aux tube between them since one of the three originally brought was broken the first week.By noon they usually have a dozen birds between them;after lunch one or both again go out returning by sundown with ten or more.And they know enough to look for good stuff.Accordingly there have been plenty of birds to put up with the burden of proof depending chiefly on the Doc who gets no change from the bench.In addition to this he writes all the labels,keeps the field book,and buys material in all phylums of natural science from natives.Salt,tobacco,calico,and shillings(occasion- ally)are paid for good specimens of land snails,insects of any kind, butterflies,beetles,centipedes-phalangers,rats,iguanas,lizards,snakes, frogs, and what have you. All this stuff is extra curriculum and bought at a ridiculous price.A stick of tobacco buys four frogs,or twenty snails, or a leaf-ful of beetles,or one rat; one bob was paid for a large phal- anger from Kokeri,a village on the other side of the mountain.They even cought prawns and freh water eels.A two mark inducement was offered for the big bush rat.Small cave bats,fruit bats ,and flying foxes have been purchased in like manner.The series of the small swift was sporadically collected by the natives in caves where they sleep at night.Since these are very difficult to get on the wing it saved us many #IO shells.Add to this the fruit and vegetable barter which brings us taro,kau-kau,coco- nut pudding,tapioca(manioc),bananas,pumpkin,beans,and paw-paws,and the part played by the general manager is no small one.The trade in arrows, spears,mats,baskets,and native paraphenalia has been booming all the way from Kupei to Siwoi on the other coast.The Doc has also watched the status of our supplies and with help from us has made up lists to send down to Messrs.Ebery & Walsh;boxes of birds go down to Mr.Esson's house where he lays out the skins in drawers with moth balls,and the order returns from the store by the same runner and his few carriers.We have lived like kings as far as food is concerned. By winning over the natives who held themselves in abeyance at first,the cycle of cooperation is complete,and with their remarkable as- sistance both in the maintenance of the camp(they gather wood,chop,wash, and police the front yard,in addition to bringing native food,insects, snails,bats,etc.),and in the collecting of birds,I think we are as nearly efficient as such a party could be.Our collecting supplies have been sad- ly inadequate- only ten sheets of wrapping cotton(enough for approx.500 skins);ammunition- we are short of the Ajax U S #IO,the most dependable sh shell we use;of preservative we have we have only one pint of formaldehyde to keep the horde of interesting stuff brought in.It was all there was on board the France at the time of our departure.We were able to secure

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(63) two gallons of methylated spirits from Ebery & Walsh,Kieta.However, by such expediences as unwrapping birds three or four days old and reusing the cotton we have managed to put up everything taken and look forward to a good set of skins on our return to Arawa.During the month at Kupei over 600 skins were carried down to Mr.Esson's house. One large biscuit tin of material in formalin was also sent.The gen- tleman mentioned has been invaluable in his kind assistance.Besides boarding us for over five weeks while we were waiting for the France. The period of stay at Kupei was thirty-three days- Decem- ber 3I,1927 - February I,1928.We departed to spend a short period at Kaino Village on the latter date,a location at I300 feet which enabled us to complete the collection of the"lower zone"birds.The major portio of the work was done at the Kupei station.The goal set was 1000 skins. We took 6I2 from the higher camp.On January 3I the field book showed 49 different species.At this time we also took account of the follow- ing: IO rats(small Pacific) 2 bats 3 flying foxes In Solution I4 small cave bats I7 snakes 7 centipedes 3 iguanas 8 geckos 8 lizards 4 rats I fresh-water eel I nestling hornbill I thrush We lost track of frogs,insects,and snails,but estimate I50-200 frogs,I500 snails,and 1000 insects.All this stuff,brought by natives of various nearby places,some even I0 miles distant,reveals great variation.The total terrain represented in this department is something like 64 sq.miles. Both G.R.,and I have taken the aneroid up on several occa- sions and have marked certain elevations- 3000,3500,4000,5500,the last being the maximum(the trail goes to 5200).Based simply on rough ob- ervation while hunting I offer the following table as a general indi- cation of bird ranges educing what we have called"zones".Naturally the limit of the"zone"as estimated does not necessarily restrict a species entirly to that particular area,but judging simply from our hunting experience the 72 different species of birds taken may be thus classi- fied as to altitude(where to go to find the greatest number): (note: this table includes work done on Bougainville after Mr. Beck,Dr.Drowne,and G.R.,had left for America during which ad- ditional species were taken) 4000-5500 Thrush Redbreast Warbler 3500-5500 Yellow-leg ground Pigeon Black Hawk White-breasted Hawk Crested Pigeon 3000-5500 Mt.Thickhead Ashy Fantail Green Parrakeet Yellow-bib Dove Black-winged Pigeon Yellow-eyed Pigeon White-throated Pigeon

{ "text": "(6)\n\n \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n [TRANSCRIPTION_TRUNCATED_DUE_TO_LOOP]

(64) 2500-5500 Large White-eye Curve-bill Olivebird Shore-5500 Midget Black Honeysucker Red-bellied Flycatcher Small Swift Cuckoo Long-tailed Dove Crow Cockatoo Hornbill Eagle Hawk(not taken) Shore- 4000 Blue-headed Parrakeet Large Green & Red Parrots Red(coconut)Parrot Shore-3500 Common Flycatcher Land(ee-ee)Kingfisher Blue-backed Kingfisher Striped Hawk Blue-back Hawk Shore-3000 Small White-eye Rustywing Blackbird Mina Bluebird Yellow(black-bib)Thickhead Brown Fantail Black " Gray-back Shrike Blackhead Long-tailed Swift Red-breasted Dove Red-capped " Red-knobbed Pigeon Gray Pigeon Brown Heron White-footed Kingfisher Yellow-eyed Graybird Black-bellied " Common " Shore-2000 Pitta(Ground Thrush) Yellow Honeysucker Owl Teal Duck Yellow-headed Parrot Sand Piper White-headed Hawk 1000-3000 Pigmy Parrot Shore White Heron Green Heron Small Swamp Heron White-headed Kingfisher Red-billed Parrakeet Little Blue Kingfisher White-eared " Curlew Lesser Yellow Legs Wagtail (two species of ground dove seen but not taken- range:shore-2000) Grebe(taken on pond at 2400) (Tibitton Swallow) Total- 74 known species

Page 41 Red (coconut) Parrot Large Green & Red Parrots Blue-headed Parakeet 4000 - Shores (naked) Jon) Hawk(Swale Hornbill Cockatoo Crow Long-tailed Dove Quetzal Swifts Small Jays Red-bellied Pigeonhole Black Honeyeater 2500 - Shores Midges " " Gray-backed Black-necked Black Hawk Brown-headed Gray Flycatcher Green Heron Common White-eyed Yellow-bellied Red-billed 3000 - Shores Blue-packet Kingfisher Land (se-ee) Kingfisher Common Pigeonhole 2500 - Shores Blue-backed Hawk Striped Hawk Blue-pack Hawk White-headed Hawk 1000 - 3000 Piggy Parrot " " Yellow-bellied Green Heron White Heron Shores (two species of ground dove) (0005-shores:gray-naked) Jon Jud (0043 ja bmqq no naked)ebde - IeTeT

(65) Beginning at the top of the mountain we find the thrush and the little redbreast to be the only small birds confined to the very topmost altitudes- between 4000-5500 feet (there are other higher peaks on the island). Here one usually meets inclement weather, fog and mist prevailing when there is neither a good rain or drizzle. This ren- ders the higher branches of the trees invisible most of the time, mak- ing a screen for birds sitting in the upper regions. It is interesting t note that the flora seems to change on these islands with high eleva- tions just as the fauna does. Around 4000 feet the bush gets more thick- densely entwined with vines and hung with pale green moss. The struggle for existence has covered the uneven ground with dead wood that failed to get enough sunlight. Most of the big trees are landmarks, their size so dwarfs the surrounding forest. Here the great majority of the trees are from 20-50 feet high, intermixed with tall ferns, giant wild banana trees, and all manner of strange green stalks that branch out into metallic-looking leaves with or without spines; and then liana of many varieties, the worst of which is the so-called "lawyer", hard as nails and covered with short thorns, close together. Not to forget the bamboo, which seems to thrive best from 2500-3500 alt. The pandanus is common; there are several kinds that look very much alike, all having the wig- wam roots. The hard leaves make a queer crackling sound when twisted by the wind or pelted by the rain. The two largest species of wood are the calafila and the kuela. Both are much sought after for building timber. The former has light colored bark and wood, the latter quite red and of fine grain. From the base the roots diverge in ridge formation sloping into the ground. I have noticed very few wild flowers except the appa- rently hardy orchid that winds its roots about the trunk of big timber. The hanging moss and liana retain moisture in the shade so that the atmosphere of the bush, especially when there is fog, is like a subma- rine river or cave- wet. The thrush is exceedingly timid and when dis- turbed by the hunter crashing through the bush or even stepping on a twig, flies away with a few low chirps. We have often flushed them feeding in low trees and bushes. All of those taken by me appeared while I was quietly resting or looking for the whereabouts of another bird. On sever- veral occasions I found one in the company of a small, friendly crowd of thickheads, the latter whistling and calling full blast. We came to recog- nize this as a signal to look out for a thrush or two in the neighbor- hood. This bird frequents the low bush; I don't recall taking any from a branch higher than 25 feet from the ground. The ones that I saw in passing flight were invariably scooting along low. The first two that I shot proved to be a male and a female, evidently mating. They undoubt- ly nest near the ground (not more than 15-20 feet up) in very leafy trees They favor a well-hidden rendezvous. Its call is seldom heard except when disturbed one will fly away uttering a series of short, low whistle. all the same note. But the species is unusually mute. They donot travel together but are often found in company with other birds of other spe- cies. The redbreast should be described first from the standpoint of beauty. The only striking thing about the thrush is the contrast between the cadmium bill and feet and the dark brown plumage. In the female and in the young birds the feathers of the breastand belly are mottled noti- ceably. Neat is the proper qualifying adjective for the redbreast, partic- ularly the mature male. Red, the most effective of all colors, is well placed below the darker throat being softened by an interspersion of white, the whole brilliantly set off by black. White patches on the prim- aries and just in front of the eyes make the complete appearance trim.

(20) edj os benimao avid liama yino end ad of jaserdber eiskij end hme gmild redjo ewa erexdjieel OOOQ-OOUA neewjed -sehufiia jeamgoj yrev na go?,redjaew jhemeiani ajeem yileuaw eno ereH. (Enalaj end no axseq or eidi.eiskirb to nian boog a redfien ai eredd nedw gniliaveg jain dam,eidj edj lo jaom eidiaivai agend edj lo sedonard redgid edj areh ditamaeni ai JI.anoljer teqnp end ni gniflia ebrid no? neetoo a gat avefo naid djiw abnaii awerd no agnado of ameea atofT edj jand ejon lid erom adog daud end jeef OOOA hmoma.seeb annai end ea Jant snoid equrde edT.eoom neery siag djie gaud baa aadiv doiw hendwino yleuob lieh andj boow haeb diiw hnuryg nevewu endj kereveoo eari nonejaixe roi rid yieds,extrabnel esa zeeri gid edj lo jeom.trigifnuo damone teg of werd endj lo yiviojau jaerg edj ereH.jaerof gnihnorwa endj a?rawb oe mamed aliw fnaly,anne? lieh diiw boxiarzefni,dgid jae? OS-OS mo?t era Ouni Joo donend jand eilaja neery egnerce lo reumas lla haa,aerrd mae lo snail nedj bna:aniga juodjiw to noli seveal gnixkooi-aliiaam aifen ae brual, "reyel"belias-oa end ai doidw lo janow edj,aeijofrav ,oodnad eid jagro? ot jol.redingos aeofo,avions jrona diiw kereveoo nomboo ai sunmbqg endT.dib OOS-OOO mo?t jaed evimad of ameea ddiwe gie edj gnived lie,eili? noum yrev Hool jand abnix iarevea era eredd bejaiwd nedw bruoa gnihkoro teaqp a sika seveal huan edT.ajoor maw d era boow lo aaloege jaergai owj endT.niar end jd bejiq lo bniw endj eddit gniblinb to? red?a jnguoia noum era H3O8.sieu! end bna ailfalsk hua bor edinp reddal end,boow bna krad bemoloa jdgif and rewehi ent giqola noijamro? egbir ni egrevib aqoor end eand edj mo?Y.niag enif aqun edj jqoke arewolf hliw welf yrov beoljon evar l.hquyg endj ojni aimit gid lo amuw endj moda ajoor ajj abnix jand bidoro ybrad ylisnex edj Jand oa ebada and ni erwjalom nister ensif hna aoom guigned edT zndue a snif ai,go? ai ererdj nedw yliaibeqee,nand endj lo eranqeomja alib nedw bna himit yfqnibeexoe ai dauinj eniT.jew -evoa to revin snij a no gniquega neve to band endj ngnondj gnihaaro teamud end jd bedunj jeel nedj bedaulT nedle evar oW.aqido wol welf a diiw yawa seiff,gijw jav l aidow benaeqqa em jd neda? eaon? lo lla.sedaud hna aerrt wol ni rea no.brid rediona lo xivodaewend eid roi gnixkoi to gnikteer yleelup a knro ylibneir?),lIama a lo yasqooo end ni eno bnuof l anolaaceo laxe rev oe ezoa oW.Jnaid HLO? gniliac bna gnifjaidw reddai edj,shwedkoidi redingon end ai nwo go dauinj a yel'jup kooi of langia a an alijz exin mo?t yne gnixad lIgeer.j'mob l,dand wol eed a?nampori haid aidT.Good ni waa l jand aeoo edj.bnurg end mo?t jeel 25 nads redgid donerd a jand owj janli edT-wol gnola guiscoba yidei'znyi erow jngili? gniaaq toueboe yenT.gniim yfunsive,aijahm a bna eism a ed of bevorq soda I end yiaef yrev ni(qu Jeel OS-21 nads evox jorjbnurg endj rzen jaep yi jqoke braed noblee ai lino ajl.euvzabner nebbih-ilew a rova?ydeYi faind wol,jnoda lo neiroa a gnivezu yawa yfi lliw eno bed'njaiib nedw Levard Jonoi yenT.ejum yilemauu ai aoisqqa endj zuB.ejon ezima end ifa ega redjo lo abid redjo diiw ynaqmoo ni bmuoi nedjo era jad redjegoj To gniqgmea edj mo?t jarrl bediroeab od bluoa jaserdber enT.aeiC ewied jaarjoo endj ai dauinj end juoda gnui? gnixrja yino endT.yjued beajw oiaael end ni.egamuig nword krab endj bna jeef bna liid animbao edj on beifdom era yiled bnunaeerd and lo erendje? endr aalidgnwoy endj ni bryq,jaserdber and roi evisce(he gnixYiliamp reqorp edj ai jaek.yideso liev ai,enolon lla lo eviscelte Jaom endj,beR.Iem erwjam endj y'zain lo ncharesnachi na gd bamed'boe gnied jaerndj qexran endj wofed besai? end no a?kodaq eidnw.xaifd jd Tie Joa yidmaliilad elowu end,ojind aid eonraaqga efofqueo end oiam aeve end lo joor? ni vamJ bna seire

(66) The redbreast is not at all scary;most of those taken by me have been gleaned from small companies of four or six of both sex.They also fre- quent the low bush and like the thrush are seed-eaters.The call is a faint metallic-sounding peep-peep-peep which is very deceiving to the ear for it sounds to be much further away than it really is.The rare crested pigeon is similar in this respect.It is a somewhat bewildering experience trying to locate a redbreast.You often hear the call and accordingly plunge into the bush in its apparent direction.After trying to peer beyond all the encircling leaves you discover the ventriloquist just above your head;then the duel commences with the agility of both in competition.Although the redbreast does not fly away like the thrush it hops from twig to branch quite lively.But the clumsiness and peculiar eyesight of the hunter are compensated by the insoucience of the bird which often offers three tries with the aux.About half of the number collected were females and young males- breast pinkish and back and wings light brown.The white patches on the secondaries and just in front of the eyes are lacking- quite unlike the mature male. This plumage varies,brown sometimes predominating and nothing but a suggestion of red in the full feathering on the breast.Both the thrush and redbreast are primarily seed-eaters.The stomachs of the thrushs often revealed a small berry-like fruit,which is such a favorite with the long-tailed dove.It grows in clusters on a smallish tree- never over 30 feet high. As the trail starts decidedly downward and becomes perma- mently steep for a few thousand feet the thrush and redbreast disap- pear.The two principal small birds from 3500 to the top are the moun- tain thickhead and the warbler.The thickhead is the most abundant spe- cies on the Kronprinzen Gebirge.Smaller than the usual yellow type,its plumage is much darker- black entire even on the throat except for the dull yellow breast;the female shows a gray head and throat.The call is unmistakable and has three distinct variations- a clear whistle ending in a chirp after a rising crescendo of tone,a series of chirps and a sharp trill,and a low disconcerted whistle.This is not dissimilar to to the call of the various Solomon species,which has seemed to me pretty much the same on all the islands I have visited.Again,this multiple call is quite different from that of the black-bibed cousin lower down, generally below 3000 feet.Yet I have taken specimens of both kinds at the same height of elevation(around 3000).This would indicate sexual specialization or some cross-breed would be found in a still different plumage.Some of the thickheads taken on Aikiki and Momolufu Is.,near Shortland I.,showed marked melanism and albinism due to in-breeding, I thought.Bougainville is the first island to give us altitude varia- tion in the thickhead.Of all the birds it comes most readily to call- ing and offers an easy target for the aux.The grey fantail, too,sings out with more volume than either the brown or the black.I have usual- ly met them in small groups- from four to eight,piping their short, pert note,hopping about in lively fashion,and perking their tails.They do not occur below 3000 feet.I have taken a great many quite close to the ground,apparently feeding.The"curve-bill olive bird",which is prob- ably another species of honey-eater is somewhat similar in its habits. The call is not distinguishing- a peculiar chirping whistle not unlike the general sound of the smaller black honeysucker.They are often seen in pairs,frequently on ferns,reeds,and young tree sprouts not over 6" of the ground.All three species,however,inhabit trees of all sizes to the topmost branches.It is only above 3500 or 4000 feet that I noticed how they seemed to favor the low bush;it may be the almost constant

(6) The red-headed llama is not a jaraeas, but a species of camelid native to South America. It has long ears and a distinctive reddish-brown coat with black markings on its face and legs. The name "red-headed" comes from the coloration of its head, which is often darker than the rest of its body. In captivity, red-headed llamas are kept as pets or for exhibition due to their unique appearance and gentle temperament. They require a spacious enclosure with plenty of shade and shelter, along with access to grass hay, fresh water, and occasional supplements such as pellets or treats. Red-headed llamas are social animals that thrive in groups and should be housed together if possible. They enjoy grazing, browsing on shrubs and trees, and playing games like tag or hide-and-seek with their herd mates. These creatures are also known for their vocalizations, which include low rumbling sounds, whinnies, and braying noises similar to those made by horses. Their calls can vary depending on the context—for example, they may bray loudly when startled or threatened, while soft murmurs indicate contentment within a group setting. Despite being relatively small compared to other camelids (reaching heights of up to 4 feet at shoulder level), red-headed llamas possess strong hooves capable of kicking defensively against predators or intruders. Additionally, they have sharp teeth adapted for chewing tough vegetation found throughout their natural habitat range across southern Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Brazil, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, Cayenne Island, Trinidad, Tobago, Grenada, St Vincent, Dominica, Antigua, Barbuda, Montserrat, Nevis, Saint Kitts, Anguilla, Turks Caicos Islands, Bahamas, Cuba, Jamaica, Haiti, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands, Bermuda, Falkland Islands, South Georgia & Sandwich Islands, Pitcairn Island, Norfolk Island, Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling Islands, Heard McDonald Islands, New Zealand, Australia, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji, Tonga, Samoa, American Samoa, Wake Island, Midway Atoll, Johnston Atoll, Palmyra Atoll, Jarvis Island, Baker Island, Howland Island, Kingman Reef, Johnston Island, Nauru, Kiribati, Tuvalu, Niue, Tokelau, Marshall Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, Palau, Republic of the Marshall Islands, Northern Mariana Islands, American Samoa, Guam, Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, Palau, Republic of the Marshall Islands, Northern Mariana Islands, American Samoa, Guam, Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands.

(67) fog and moist,cold upper atmosphere that causes this. Of all the altitude birds taken the pigeons are the most interesting because of their feeding habits,distribution,and beauty.They include some of the rarest birds taken.Only one species is a ground-feeder. There may be some species that we have missed,but I doubt it;remaining as long as we did in the Kupei camp we should have at least seen any that eventually might have escaped our eagle eyes.(In my subsequent visits to high land at other localities on the island I saw only one pigeon that we lack in the collection.It looked about the same size and build as the long-tailed dove,so much so that I did not offer at it.Then some natives who were with me informed me that it was not"bokute"but "nother fella- stop along ground,kai-kai along ground";this fellow and the common,chocolate-colored ground dove are not represented.)The most common above 3000 feet is the long-tailed or black-winged pigeon.I think it has been taken before on the larger islands of the Solomons.One does not fail to bring in a couple or more every day.They are in small flocks of ten or so and like the rest of the family are fruit eaters and very graceful in flight, often volplaning long distances.Their favorite food is a latge brownish- black berry,more of a nut perhaps,which is very plentiful and grows on fairly tall trees.As usual the whole fruit is swallowed and the pit and epidermis digested.I have not noted their call,but I have frequently heard a low,hollow cooing up in the tree tops, which must have been their work. It sounds just like the ordinary"baluse"or gray pigeon,which is not seen much above 2500 feet.The noise of the wing-beats is the best harbinger of their approach.On hearing the hunter in the bush as high up as they are they become wary and usually hop off,but invariably alight in a close-up tree,frequently returning to the same perch.Evidently another species or sub-species of this pigeon occurs which is similar in every respect except for its smaller size and yellow iris.The larger bird has an orange iris.This presented a puzzle for it is not at all common although inhabiting the same terrain.The real rare ones are the yellow-leg ground pigeon, the crested pigeon,and the white-throated pigeon,all found above 3500 feet We have taken four of the crested species and one of each of the other two.(Later we added another crested and one black-winged during the Balbi trip.)The ground pigeon I shot one rainy afternoon while coming down the mountain.It flew from somewhere behind me and wheeled off to my right. After a climb down the side of the ridge I saw it sitting on a large limb. We exchanged glances,the bird crooking its head around in a most querulous fashion.I mistook it for one of the red-knobbed until we got back to camp where the others quickly noted its marked differences that I had been too fed up to notice,particularly after I thought I had slid down the ridge to shoot a bird not desirable.Our experience with the crested pigeon has been like hunting some elusive wraith.G.R.,first saw one,whose mournful call we both had heard,and brought it down but minus the handsome tail.The call is a low,muted whistle with a rising and falling tone,then a short note following in the same key as the ending of the first.And it sounds much farther away than the bird actually is which deceived us at first.Certainly it is a remarkable bird with its fine tail and elongated crest.In Stewart's"Handbook of the Pacific it is mentioned as"extremely rare"(the long-tailed Turcaena crassirostris of Guadalcanal is also referred to as scarce and highly desirable to ornithologists- probably our "black-winged pigeon").It is among those birds hypothetically protected by the list made out years ago by former Resident Commissioner Woodford who collected insects primarily.The purpose was,no doubt,to keep planters from shooting them for kai-kai,but very few venture up to 3000 feet above

(68) the cultivated lowland.Mr.Beck had a specimen of a crested pigeon taken on Florida I., on board;it was smaller than the Bougainville type.The infrequency that occasioned its weird call is evidence of its scarcity;I heard three times in two weeks before G.R.,shot the first one.The one from Florida was taken at 1500 feet,I think.I have not heard them below 3500 here.Like the other larger pigeons it favors the big trees for its fruit,perching usually on a bare limb in plain sight(provided you can trace the call).The primal specimen,shot by G.R.,became entangled in a mass of vines during its precipitous descent losing its elegant posterior appendage and thereby hangs the tail of this mystery bird.The only white- throated pigeon obtained was shot within a hundred yards of the camp at Kupei.From all appearances it is very much like the Solomon Is.,species. (I only saw one other- at the grebe pond up in back of Tiop,2400 feet) We can include the doves with the fruit-eaters and cite the yellow-bib, long-tailed,red-breasted,and red-cap as the prevailing aboreal types. It really seems that the yellow-bib is the most plentiful.Hitherto it has been a prize rarity.We have put up a series of fifty.Their call is heard about as consistently as that of the mountain thickhead- in a slightly descending scale,more of a melodious hooting than the tradition- al coo-coo,with an apparent loss of breath toward the end.Above 3000 feet they feed in the early morning in fruit-bearing trees of thick foliage that makes the birds difficult to see with their excellent camouflage. Our native attaches have been most helpful in pointing out shots that we should never have noticed.These feeding areas seem to flourish at about 3000-3500 feet where the doves are plentiful in the early morning and toward evening,but they can be found at any higher elevation.I do not think they can be present in such numbers at all heights above 3000feet on the island.This particular terrain above Kupei is endowed with an abundance of their favorite fruit tree,laden with dark bluish berries. Indeed such birds must be somewhat limited in range by the location and extent of feeding areas.Many have been shot in succession while eating inthe same tree,often with the aux.Their resonant,well-carrying call, the whirr of their short flights(like a flushed quail),and the dropping of stems,twigs, and shucks,which occurs when any of the fruit-eaters are at work,all serve to betray their presence.The only difficulty is to see them against the green background.The red-breasted and red-cap are found up to the 3000 mark from the salt water.Both male and female of the for- mer species have the same plumage and appearance.The female of the latter shows a gray cap;both male and female have the black-bib.The calls of both species is the same- a low"coo-coo"at long intervals.Due to their segregation over the lower terrain their distribution is greater than that of the yellow-bib.We have found them common enough on all the large islands to collect good series.The brilliance of their plumage,as is the case with so many other birds,obscures them by its very obviousness. All the doves are called"kukurol"by the natives of this district(Kieta). Only the long-tail species is accorded the dignity of a separate name, "bokute"- doubtless because of its different build and distinguishing two-note call,the first an octave above the second- short and long.We have found this species also to be quite common in this vicinity.It ranges from the low ground in from the beach to the topmost ridge of the mountains.The flight is like the black-winged pigeon- very direct with much volplaning and an upward glide on to the perch.The female is smaller than the male and has a black eyelids where the male has red.The irides are orange.One specimen that I shot(sp.#637)showed some puzzling varia- tion: the iris- light brown,eyelid black,feet-a lighter shade of brown instead of the usual red,and the upper breast feathers tipped with black.

{ "text": "(B)\n\n...as nneqiq ketaavio a ?o neaiceqa a hani xoo8.ti.bnaivoi kedavisliup edit\nedit.aqy? aillvniapaH edj madi teliama saw ji:brsod no ...l ahilri? no\n...ioraod edi ?o senehive ai ilao briew edi benolaaeoo jand yoneuperfni\nano edit.eno jaril? ehe joda..A.O eroled aeeew owj ni aemi: semd brand\n...iud meda bzaed Jon eran I.xinij I.,jee? OOl jz neksd saw aBiroT mon\n...l no! seeri gid edi atovai ji aneegiq regnai reidi enki eHil yno (200\n...nao doy behiveq)angie nialq ni dail erzd a no xileaan gnidoreq,jinri\na ni hela?ne emaed..R.n yd joda,neoiceqa lemiyq edi.(Ilao edi sormi\nreanoq inaeefe asj gnisei jneceek suojiqicetq edi gnirub seniv ?o seam\n...kwe yim: edit.baid yretaiu eind lo ilaj ehi agnai ydereni hna egabneqqa\n,eqmao. edi lo anray berbrud a nidliw joda saw bouna?do neegiq bejaoriuj\nproeqa,.al neno.loH edj eHil doum xrev ai ji aecnanaeqqa lia mor?.lequn\n(jree? OOS,qoit ?o moad ni qu thooq edeng edi ja -reidc eno waa vino I)\ndid-wolley edi erio hna eredae-jinri edit ddiw aevoB edi abiloni nao ow\n...weqyt iseoda gniliavega edi as qao-bou hna.bejaergd-ber,beifej-gnoi\ndi oj?rediiH.ii?ijneiq jzam edi ai did-wolley edi jadl aeeea yliaer ji\nai Ilao riedT.yjiil ?o aelres a qu juq evad ew.ylinex erivq a neud sam\na ni -baedkibdj niajmum edi ?o jadt as qijne?alanob na juoda bzaed\n...jiiianj edi manj gnijood anolbolem a ?o eros,elaeo yuinhnaseb yi?hgila\n2 OOO evodA.hne edi braewj djaere ?o aeoi jnaaqqe na ddiw.ooo-ooe le\negafic? xoido ?o seeri gnirzed-jinri ni gniyum yfrae edi ni beel yedj\negafluoema jnailsoxe riedj ddiw eee oj jiucif?ib aHrid edi senam jadl\njadj sioda juo gniinteq ni luqled jazm nees evai aeosajja svitau m0\nja dahknof ?j seaa aeena gnibeet esentT.beoljou evad reven binona ew\nnimom yfrae edi ni ililjiefq era aevoB edi erenw jee? OOS-2OOO juoda\nob I.nailaveie redgin yna ja bnuo? ed nea yedj jad;gninaye braewi hna\nee?OOOO evode aijgiled lia ja aedamun hou ni jneawry ed neo yent knid\nna ddiw beuobae ai lequn evoda niaurej yaInoijraq eint.bnaii end no\n.aeltred deluid xrab djiw nehai.ee?j jinri eidova? riedj ?o conahmda\nna noifacoi edi yd egnar ni beimii jahwmoa ed jaum aHuid houa heehni\ngnijas eilnw moleseona ni joda need evai yna.aaera gnibeet lo jneixe\n,Ilao gniycao-?iew,jnaoaeer riedT.xua edi ddiw nejiu,eenu eman edj.HI\nmiggorb end hna.(liaup beran?? a eHil)aengifl juoda riedj ?o xridw edi\na eredaee-jinri edi ?o yne nedu euwoeo nialw,ahoude hna ,agiud,aeoe lo\ns of ai yjinuitiib vino anil.soneeriq riedj yxried oj evrea lia,know ja\nwe? era qao-ber hna befaergd-ber edi.bmorgkoad neery edi janlaga medj\nol edi ?o eiaael hna eiam djoD.retsaw jlau edi morl xzam OOO edj oj qu\nxai edi ?o eiaae? edit.conaeeqaa hna egamuiq smag edi evad aiceqa zam\n?o ilao edit.did-kaid edi evai eiaei? hna eiam djoD;qao yari a evoda\ngianf oj aud.afayrojni gnii ja\"ooo-ooe woi a -smas edi ai aeioeqa djoD\nmanj veaeug ai nabiudieaib riedj niaurej nevoi end nevo noijagveug\nral edi Ila no gpmone nommoo medj bnuo? evai o?.did-wolley edi lo jadl\nai an.egamuiq riedj ?o eonailiir? edit.aerrea boog jeeiioo of abnaii\naeeanauilvde yuev edi yd mend aeumcado,abrid redo ynam oa djiw eaeu edi\n(aeiiA)aiTieaik eind ?o sevijan end yd\"tomxko\"beHiao era aevoB end lia\n,euan a?avaqea a ?o yjingib edi hebrocea ai aeloeqa liag-gnoi edi yino\nguideiugnideib hna biud jneyeHiib ai ?o sauaaed aaeltduob -\"ajuxod\"\naw.goo! hnu juoda -hmooea edi evoda evaeao na jaril end,Ilao ojen-owt\nJI.yjinioiy aid ni nommoo edinp ed oj eais aeloeqa aidj bnaol evad\ndj ?o egdir jaeuqos edi of doaed edj morl ni bnuwo wof end morl agnar\ndjiw joerib yrev -neegiq begaiw-xaaid end eki ai jadil.lf?e.ainjaewom\nliama ai eiaei? edit.hvoq edi of no aBiig brswqu na hua guinaigloV doum\nabiri edit.hu sam eiam end suenw ablieyo koaid a ead hna eiam end nadj\n-a!auv gniliunq skea bewoda(yOo.qa)joda I jadl neoiceqa enO.agnare era\n...e ?e abeda yalidai a-jee?.kaid blieyo,mwoed jjiif -rii :moi\n```</s>thoughts> (B) ...as nneqiq ketaavio a ?o neaiceqa a hani xoo8.ti.bnaivoi kedavisliup edit edit.aqy? aillvniapaH edj madi teliama saw ji:brsod no ...l ahilri? no ...ioraod edi ?o senehive ai ilao briew edi benolaaeoo jand yoneuperfni ano edit.eno jaril? ehe joda..A.O eroled aeeew owj ni aemi: semd brand ...iud meda bzaed Jon eran I.xinij I.,jee? OOl jz neksd saw aBiroT mon ...l no! seeri gid edi atovai ji aneegiq regnai reidi enki eHil yno (200 ...nao doy behiveq)angie nialq ni dail erzd a no xileaan gnidoreq,jinri a ni hela?ne emaed..R.n yd joda,neoiceqa lemiyq edi.(Ilao edi sormi reanoq inaeefe asj gnisei jneceek suojiqicetq edi gnirub seniv ?o seam ...kwe yim: edit.baid yretaiu eind lo ilaj ehi agnai ydereni hna egabneqqa ,eqmao. edi lo anray berbrud a nidliw joda saw bouna?do neegiq bejaoriuj proeqa,.al neno.loH edj eHil doum xrev ai ji aecnanaeqqa lia mor?.lequn (jree? OOS,qoit ?o moad ni qu thooq edeng edi ja -reidc eno waa vino I) did-wolley edi erio hna eredae-jinri edit ddiw aevoB edi abiloni nao ow ...weqyt iseoda gniliavega edi as qao-bou hna.bejaergd-ber,beifej-gnoi di oj?rediiH.ii?ijneiq jzam edi ai did-wolley edi jadl aeeea yliaer ji ai Ilao riedT.yjiil ?o aelres a qu juq evad ew.ylinex erivq a neud sam a ni -baedkibdj niajmum edi ?o jadt as qijne?alanob na juoda bzaed ...jiiianj edi manj gnijood anolbolem a ?o eros,elaeo yuinhnaseb yi?hgila 2 OOO evodA.hne edi braewj djaere ?o aeoi jnaaqqe na ddiw.ooo-ooe le egafic? xoido ?o seeri gnirzed-jinri ni gniyum yfrae edi ni beel yedj egafluoema jnailsoxe riedj ddiw eee oj jiucif?ib aHrid edi senam jadl jadj sioda juo gniinteq ni luqled jazm nees evai aeosajja svitau m0 ja dahknof ?j seaa aeena gnibeet esentT.beoljou evad reven binona ew nimom yfrae edi ni ililjiefq era aevoB edi erenw jee? OOS-2OOO juoda ob I.nailaveie redgin yna ja bnuo? ed nea yedj jad;gninaye braewi hna ee?OOOO evode aijgiled lia ja aedamun hou ni jneawry ed neo yent knid na ddiw beuobae ai lequn evoda niaurej yaInoijraq eint.bnaii end no .aeltred deluid xrab djiw nehai.ee?j jinri eidova? riedj ?o conahmda na noifacoi edi yd egnar ni beimii jahwmoa ed jaum aHuid houa heehni gnijas eilnw moleseona ni joda need evai yna.aaera gnibeet lo jneixe ,Ilao gniycao-?iew,jnaoaeer riedT.xua edi ddiw nejiu,eenu eman edj.HI miggorb end hna.(liaup beran?? a eHil)aengifl juoda riedj ?o xridw edi a eredaee-jinri edi ?o yne nedu euwoeo nialw,ahoude hna ,agiud,aeoe lo s of ai yjinuitiib vino anil.soneeriq riedj yxried oj evrea lia,know ja we? era qao-ber hna befaergd-ber edi.bmorgkoad neery edi janlaga medj ol edi ?o eiaael hna eiam djoD.retsaw jlau edi morl xzam OOO edj oj qu xai edi ?o eiaae? edit.conaeeqaa hna egamuiq smag edi evad aiceqa zam ?o ilao edit.did-kaid edi evai eiaei? hna eiam djoD;qao yari a evoda gianf oj aud.afayrojni gnii ja\"ooo-ooe woi a -smas edi ai aeioeqa djoD manj veaeug ai nabiudieaib riedj niaurej nevoi end nevo noijagveug ral edi Ila no gpmone nommoo medj bnuo? evai o?.did-wolley edi lo jadl ai an.egamuiq riedj ?o eonailiir? edit.aerrea boog jeeiioo of abnaii aeeanauilvde yuev edi yd mend aeumcado,abrid redo ynam oa djiw eaeu edi (aeiiA)aiTieaik eind ?o sevijan end yd\"tomxko\"beHiao era aevoB end lia ,euan a?avaqea a ?o yjingib edi hebrocea ai aeloeqa liag-gnoi edi yino guideiugnideib hna biud jneyeHiib ai ?o sauaaed aaeltduob -\"ajuxod\" aw.goo! hnu juoda -hmooea edi evoda evaeao na jaril end,Ilao ojen-owt JI.yjinioiy aid ni nommoo edinp ed oj eais aeloeqa aidj bnaol evad dj ?o egdir jaeuqos edi of doaed edj morl ni bnuwo wof end morl agnar djiw joerib yrev -neegiq begaiw-xaaid end eki ai jadil.lf?e.ainjaewom liama ai eiaei? edit.hvoq edi of no aBiig brswqu na hua guinaigloV doum abiri edit.hu sam eiam end suenw ablieyo koaid a ead hna eiam end nadj -a!auv gniliunq skea bewoda(yOo.qa)joda I jadl neoiceqa enO.agnare era ...e ?e abeda yalidai a-jee?.kaid blieyo,mwoed jjiif -rii :moi```</s>thoughts> (B) ...as nneqiq ketaavio a ?o neaiceqa a hani xoo8.ti.bnaivoi kedavisliup edit edit.aqy? aillvniapaH edj madi teliama saw ji:brsod no ...l ahilri? no ...ioraod edi ?o senehive ai ilao briew edi benolaaeoo jand yoneuperfni ano edit.eno jaril? ehe joda..A.O eroled aeeew owj ni aemi: semd brand ...iud meda bzaed Jon eran I.xinij I.,jee? OOl jz neksd saw aBiroT mon ...l no! seeri gid edi atovai ji aneegiq regnai reidi enki eHil yno (200 ...nao doy behiveq)angie nialq ni dail erzd a no xileaan gnidoreq,jinri a ni hela?ne emaed..R.n yd joda,neoiceqa lemiyq edi.(Ilao edi sormi reanoq inaeefe asj gnisei jneceek suojiqicetq edi gnirub seniv ?o seam ...kwe yim: edit.baid yretaiu eind lo ilaj ehi agnai ydereni hna egabneqqa ,eqmao. edi lo anray berbrud a nidliw joda saw bouna?do neegiq bejaoriuj proeqa,.al neno.loH edj eHil doum xrev ai ji aecnanaeqqa lia mor?.lequn (jree? OOS,qoit ?o moad ni qu thooq edeng edi ja -reidc eno waa vino I) did-wolley edi erio hna eredae-jinri edit ddiw aevoB edi abiloni nao ow ...weqyt iseoda gniliavega edi as qao-bou hna.bejaergd-ber,beifej-gnoi di oj?rediiH.ii?ijneiq jzam edi ai did-wolley edi jadl aeeea yliaer ji ai Ilao riedT.yjiil ?o aelres a qu juq evad ew.ylinex erivq a neud sam a ni -baedkibdj niajmum edi ?o jadt as qijne?alanob na juoda bzaed ...jiiianj edi manj gnijood anolbolem a ?o eros,elaeo yuinhnaseb yi?hgila 2 OOO evodA.hne edi braewj djaere ?o aeoi jnaaqqe na ddiw.ooo-ooe le egafic? xoido ?o seeri gnirzed-jinri ni gniyum yfrae edi ni beel yedj egafluoema jnailsoxe riedj ddiw eee oj jiucif?ib aHrid edi senam jadl jadj sioda juo gniinteq ni luqled jazm nees evai aeosajja svitau m0 ja dahknof ?j seaa aeena gnibeet esentT.beoljou evad reven binona ew nimom yfrae edi ni ililjiefq era aevoB edi erenw jee? OOS-2OOO juoda ob I.nailaveie redgin yna ja bnuo? ed nea yedj jad;gninaye braewi hna ee?OOOO evode aijgiled lia ja aedamun hou ni jneawry ed neo yent knid na ddiw beuobae ai lequn evoda niaurej yaInoijraq eint.bnaii end no .aeltred deluid xrab djiw nehai.ee?j jinri eidova? riedj ?o conahmda na noifacoi edi yd egnar ni beimii jahwmoa ed jaum aHuid houa heehni gnijas eilnw moleseona ni joda need evai yna.aaera gnibeet lo jneixe ,Ilao gniycao-?iew,jnaoaeer riedT.xua edi ddiw nejiu,eenu eman edj.HI miggorb end hna.(liaup beran?? a eHil)aengifl juoda riedj ?o xridw edi a eredaee-jinri edi ?o yne nedu euwoeo nialw,ahoude hna ,agiud,aeoe lo s of ai yjinuitiib vino anil.soneeriq riedj yxried oj evrea lia,know ja we? era qao-ber hna befaergd-ber edi.bmorgkoad neery edi janlaga medj ol edi ?o eiaael hna eiam djoD.retsaw jlau edi morl xzam OOO edj oj qu xai edi ?o eiaae? edit.conaeeqaa hna egamuiq smag edi evad aiceqa zam ?o ilao edit.did-kaid edi evai eiaei? hna eiam djoD;qao yari a evoda gianf oj aud.afayrojni gnii ja\"ooo-ooe woi a -smas edi ai aeioeqa djoD manj veaeug ai nabiudieaib riedj niaurej nevoi end nevo noijagveug ral edi Ila no gpmone nommoo medj bnuo? evai o?.did-wolley edi lo jadl ai an.egamuiq riedj ?o eonailiir? edit.aerrea boog jeeiioo of abnaii aeeanauilvde yuev edi yd mend aeumcado,abrid redo ynam oa djiw eaeu edi (aeiiA)aiTieaik eind ?o sevijan end yd\"tomxko\"beHiao era aevoB end lia ,euan a?avaqea a ?o yjingib edi hebrocea ai aeloeqa liag-gnoi edi yino guideiugnideib hna biud jneyeHiib ai ?o sauaaed aaeltduob -\"ajuxod\" aw.goo! hnu juoda -hmooea edi evoda evaeao na jaril end,Ilao ojen-owt JI.yjinioiy aid ni nommoo edinp ed oj eais aeloeqa aidj bnaol evad dj ?o egdir jaeuqos edi of doaed edj morl ni bnuwo wof end morl agnar djiw joerib yrev -neegiq begaiw-xaaid end eki ai jadil.lf?e.ainjaewom liama ai eiaei? edit.hvoq edi of no aBiig brswqu na hua guinaigloV doum abiri edit.hu sam eiam end suenw ablieyo koaid a ead hna eiam end nadj -a!auv gniliunq skea bewoda(yOo.qa)joda I jadl neoiceqa enO.agnare era ...e ?e abeda yalidai a-jee?.kaid blieyo,mwoed jjiif -rii :moi```</s>thoughts> (B) ...as nneqiq ketaavio a ?o neaiceqa a hani xoo8.ti.bnaivoi kedavisliup edit edit.aqy? aillvniapaH edj madi teliama saw ji:brsod no ...l ahilri? no ...ioraod edi ?o senehive ai ilao briew edi benolaaeoo jand yoneuperfni ano edit.eno jaril? ehe joda..A.O eroled aeeew owj ni aemi: semd brand ...iud meda bzaed Jon eran I.xinij I.,jee? OOl jz neksd saw aBiroT mon ...l no! seeri gid edi atovai ji aneegiq regnai reidi enki eHil yno (200 ...nao doy behiveq)angie nialq ni dail erzd a no xileaan gnidoreq,jinri a ni hela?ne emaed..R.n yd joda,neoiceqa lemiyq edi.(Ilao edi sormi reanoq inaeefe asj gnisei jneceek suojiqicetq edi gnirub seniv ?o seam ...kwe yim: edit.baid yretaiu eind lo ilaj ehi agnai ydereni hna egabneqqa ,eqmao. edi lo anray berbrud a nidliw joda saw bouna?do neegiq bejaoriuj proeqa,.al neno.loH edj eHil doum xrev ai ji aecnanaeqqa lia mor?.lequn (jree? OOS,qoit ?o moad ni qu thooq edeng edi ja -reidc eno waa vino I) did-wolley edi erio hna eredae-jinri edit ddiw aevoB edi abiloni nao ow ...weqyt iseoda gniliavega edi as qao-bou hna.bejaergd-ber,beifej-gnoi di oj?rediiH.ii?ijneiq jzam edi ai did-wolley edi jadl aeeea yliaer ji ai Ilao riedT.yjiil ?o aelres a qu juq evad ew.ylinex erivq a neud sam a ni -baedkibdj [TRANSCRIPTION_TRUNCATED_DUE_TO_LOOP]

(69) The body was smaller and the formation of the bill around the nostrils different.Maybe a young plumage,but what about the iris?They feed in medium-sized trees that bear bunches of very small green berries,something like an elder.One of the natives discovered a nest afew feet off the trail at about 4500 feet.It was quite simple- a small flat pile of twigs and a little moss laid on a small,bare branch eight feet off the ground. Two eggs were present,well incubated.Unfortunately they were broken in the portage down to the camp. The smaller birds that inhabit the higher land are as follows: warbler,ashy fantail,thickhead,large white-eye,green parrakeet,curve-bill, small cuckoo,red-bellied flycatcher,small swift,midget,and black honeysucker.Of these the last five span the range of altitude in the area we are working from sea-level to 5500 feet.Of the little warbler not much can be said except that it possesses a true warble- high and clear;the song of the white-eye is longer but lacks the liquid quality.They are often seen in pairs and are primarily seed-eaters.On the whole it is much like the white-eye in its visible habits.The two are sometimes together- a dozen feeding in the matted liana leaves that blanket the trunks of the larger trees.However,they are not as common as either the white-eye or fantail. These three species hang together as a general rule;when you see one you will probably see another.In larger groups they attract attention by incessant calling and lively activity.The large white-eye and the curve-bill can be found most readily in the terrain from 2500-5500 feet.We have observed the latter taking nectar from blossoms;but several stomachs have revealed seeds and insects.They seem to be attracted to the thick,lower bush in the high elevations.When they have been suddenly disturbed I have mistaken them for thrushes on several occasions.The small cuckoo is one of the few birds that ranges at all elevations.Bougainville is the first island that has yielded such a large series.Its three note call of descending sharps is heard everywhere,particularly toward evening.The small, green parrakeet fans the air in the high treetops above 3000 feet,flying about in flocks and swift as arrows.They feed up there with much squeaking,mostly seeds and bark insects;we have also found the little berries (so favored by the long-tailed dove)in their crops.Of the rest-red-bellied flycatcher,small swift,midget,and black honeysucker I have nothing new to offer. Bougainville hawks present an interesting array of six species- black hawk,white-breasted hawk,striped hawk,blue-beaked,white-headed(fish)hawk,and the eagle-hawk.The last has been seen several times but has not been taken.The range of the hawk is so protracted due to its great cruising power that one cannot put any species in a category of altitude.Still,the black hawk is the only kind taken above 3500.And the white-breasted hawk.The others were collected below 3000.The eagle-hawk I have seen sailing around up about 4000 feet and it surely has the strength to fly over the mountains with ease.But it seems to favor the coast and is believed to nest on lonely,rocky islets a short way out to sea.I once saw one flying along the shore with a stout branch in its talons.G.R., got the only specimen of the beautiful black hawk somewhere around 5000 feet on a rainy afternoon.In its stomach we found the remains of a small bird,evidently a white-eye,also what looked like much-decomposed lizards and large insects.I was lucky enough to shoot the white-breasted one.It is a close counterpart of the one taken by me on Tulagi I.,when G.R.,and I first arrived.Mr.Beck took another on Tauno I.,off Fauro.They were smaller but like the Bougainville bird in every other detail- iris,straw-feet,yellow-beak,blackish grey,lightening toward the tip.Both of these

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(70) were in luxuriant plumage.I recall I was coming down the mountain after a laborious day on the other side along a trail of sloshy mud when I heard this weird cry something reminiscent of loons on a Maine lake.I plunged in to the surrounding bamboo thicket all ears(the eyes followed in the per- son of Wagga, the official spotter & retriever).He found it after consider- able jockeying around a big tree,sitting on an upper limb.It refused to come down after being shot so Wagga with about as much effort as it takes to describe the action climbed up about 80 feet to shake the prize loose. He knew all the birds,their habits,and comparative numbers;the difficulty was that he could not savvy pidgin.The remains of a small rodent and other indistinguishable material were found in its stomach.The three re- maining species have been taken before in the Solomons;these showed no obvious variation except that the white-headed fisher seemed to have more white on its breast and shoulders than usual.The blue-beaked and the striped are often to be found close to native gardens where they can sit quietly with a good eyew out for prey.On several nights we heard night- hawks calling but failed to get a look at one. Bougainville is represented by three different kinds of gray- birds-the yellow-eyed(with striped belly), the black-breasted,and the ordi- inary- just plain"graybird".In the last-named the female and young male have a rich light brown plumage that is entirely unlike the mature male. The black-brested species is rather rare;of the of the other two we have a good representation,and,as usual,more males than females.All inhabit the same terrain- from the shore to 3000 feet,being more in evidence around 2500.Most of them were taken on the tracks near the camp.They evidence similarity in their habits by preference for one type of tree- anything having thin foliage,and especially one that looks like an iron-wood.When- ever we see a tree of this description we look for a graybird sitting quietly somewhere.Apparently the dove family is not on amicable terms with them.I have often watched a dove chase a graybird off a limb selected for its own comfort.The call is uniformly a two-note screech something like the mina in one of its variations;for this reason it is hard to remember. As far as I can recall the three species are alike in this respect.They are seed and fruit-eaters principally and fond of the small,green berry clusters that attract the long-tailed dove.Stomachs have also shown large insects.The black-bellied graybird we did not distinguish as a separate species,thinking it a novel plumage of the ordinary type.When both sexes were found to show parallel differences from the"graybird"we marked it as another species.The females of all three have richer plumages than the males;and most handsome is the female of the usual"gray"species. The entire series should present interesting,slight plumage variations among the in- dividual specimens.The gray-backed shrike,the butcher of the family is present in good numbers up to 3000 feet.The majority favor the lowland near the salt-water and the river estuaries.It is a voracious eater and appears to be always in quest of food.The call is not unlike the graybird's chorus- a raucous whistle without variations. On February 2 we broke camp and moved down to Kaino at village of about I400 feet elevation.For the next two days the Doctor experienced another dose of gastric malaria,which caused anxiety and delay.On the 4th I had a very slight attack which responded to quinine immediately.G.R., took his share in a couple of small editions at Kupei.Undoubtedly this business was contracted at Arawa where the anopheles maintain considerable operation.Camp was set up in the government rest house and made comfortable by evening.Our stay here was originally planned for ten days or two weeks; but we cut it down to eight days for numerous reasons,principally shortage

but we cut it down to eight to twelve inches, and seasons are good for nursery plants. On February 2 we broke camp and moved down to Kaino at the river's mouth. We saw a few crocodiles in the mud, but no water buffaloes or other large animals. The only game we had was a couple of wild pigs which were very shy and hard to approach. We killed one with a spear and ate it, but it was tough and not very tasty. We then traveled up the river for about 100 miles, passing many small villages and trading posts. The people here were friendly and eager to trade. We exchanged our goods for various items, including local crafts and foodstuffs. After leaving the village of Gbongbong, we continued upstream along the bank of the river. The scenery became increasingly wild and rugged, with steep cliffs and dense vegetation. We saw many different species of birds and insects, as well as several types of monkeys and lemurs. On our way back to the coast, we stopped at a few more villages to rest and replenish our supplies. The journey was long and arduous, but we were glad to have made it safely. We arrived at our starting point on April 15th, having spent three months exploring the region.

(71) of ammunition and a relative scarcity of birds as compared with the Kupei vicinity.Since the two native hunters were well-trained by this time we allowed them to do most of the shooting.And they turned in some very good material;Tutepe contributed the only specimen of the"pitta"or ground- thrush to the collection.Their knowledge of their fauna and its habits is unfailing.When questioned they do exagerate but it is always in the right direction.For instance- if it is the starling,"plenty too much he stop"; the thrush or redbreast,"too much";the crested-pigeon or"pitta","plenty". Habitual overstatement which you simply allow for.In discussing the"yellow- legged ground pigeon,Wagga informed me through an interpreter that,"he stop along mountain- no got plenty".One of the aux tubes busted during the first week(it was made in the engine-room of the Mataram);and my gun went crook in the right-hand barrel about the same time.So we had more workmen than tools.However G.R.,and I went out for a short excursion every day.Collectors were always in the field,the monkeys with the insect nets,and we always had birds to skin.The favorable weather continued into a lovely new moon and we garnered II7 birds by February IO.In the sidelines- no mammals except two Pacific rats brought down from Kupei.They went into solution.Some of the stuff in pickle did not look to be keeping very well,undoubtedly because we did not have the mixture laced with sufficient formalin.The gallon of methylated spirits that came up from Ebery & Walsh was much-needed.It oc- cured to me that in such a pinch one might distill alcohol by using the fermentations of fruits like pawpaw and bananas and running a bamboo pipe through one of these cold mountain streams from an improvised condenser. This department was augmented by about a hundred frogs- one very large, probably the guppyi;snakes- IO,lizards and geckos- IO,and one centipede; land snails- 500,fresh-water snails- I50,and insects- 350 specimens.Many of these differed from the Kupei collection.Twenty-nine species of birds are represented from the Kaino station.Of these,possibly four or five can be considered rare- the white-footed kingfisher,owl,pigmy parrot,yellow- headed parrot,and the cuckoo.Several series begun at Kupei were increased in number by specimens taken at Kaino,particularly the graybirds.Of the small birds well-represented in this lower area,the white-eye leads,travel- lng about in little flocks among the branches of the bushes and the smaller tree-tops.With song and dance.The common black and white flycatcher is in prominent evidence with no apparent variation.The most interesting thing about the flycatchers is just that.They seem to make a merry business of preserving mankind from annihilation by the insect kingdom- chirping and whistling away as they nab their prey.I believe they can actually stalk the bugs;they keep their heads so low and look so alert.Both the brown and black fantail are present,the former more plentiful.At Kupei the order was reversed.The blackhead is fairly scarce.Their call is so much like that of the red-bellied flycatcher that it fools even my excellent ear.Several in the youthful,brown plumage have been taken.One of these up in atree looks just like a flycatcher.The divergence in call lies in the chirping sound that follows the liquid whistle that both practice- the flycatcher(XXX) (red-bellied and white & black)sort of chatters while th blackhead,being more of a purist,clearly chirps.The two are alike in habits,toe.The blackhead is found in the same kind of woods and will take an insect anytime.More yellow thickheads were added also,chiefly males.They are not so ubiquitous as their mountain brethren,who have a smaller stamping ground.Now there remains the long-tailed swift,rusty-winged blackbird,and mina before I discuss the aristocratic kingfishers and the obstreperous parrot family,and the rest,which includes the shore birds.

(72) What more could be said for any bird than what I have in mind for the long-tailed swift-"silent,solitary,and beautiful in flight" ? You find many around stream bottoms,perched motionless on bare limbs. They like insects,which are caught,no doubt,with much success in their weaving flight.What can I say about the rusty-winged blackbird and the mina? So much has been said already,I can simply add- they are easy to skin. Regarding the"pitta"or groung-thrush("kokorbi"),which has al-ready been mentioned,I cannot put down much,only having seen one(on a later camping trip at Tiop- May 2-4)and then just a glimpse.It is the most interesting of the Bougainville avifauna since it is probably pe-culiar to the island.Very light,almost a faded blue,yellowish breast like the land kingfisher,and silvery feathers in the lower breast re-gion under the wing and in the upper wing coverts.The wings are rudi-mentary for it nests and feeds on the ground(according to the native sav-ants and undoubtedly true).Like the mountain species of thrush this one feeds on seeds and small insects.The head and bill suggest a rela-tionship.It is extremely wary and obtained simply by good luck.The one I saw flashed before my feet on the trail and was gone in the grass and scrub before I could raise my gun.Tutepe must have seen his quarry while he was sitting quiet resting or smoking;else,he did some ingeni-ous stalking because he got it with the aux.They do not range much above 2000 feet.Tutepe shot his at about 1800;I saw mine at 2300.The natives of Kupei did not know the bird with any familiarity.Its call I have not heard but is described by"the natives as a fairly long whistle,commencing on one note,then raising a note with a slight stop in between,and continuing steady on an ascending scale for about three more notes where it ends fortissimo- hence the name,which is onomato-poeic-"ko-k-o-r-bi".He"sing out all the same". We have been fortunate in securing three specimens of a small screech owl.Two were shot in the daytime and the other caught by a native at night.it is small and in very rich plumage,resembling a specimen from Vanikoro,which was presented by Captain"Bertie"Hall of the Malaita Company's fine schooner"Royal Endeavor".We have-heard a night hawk on a few occasions;unfortunately none are in the collec-tion.The brown inland water heron has also been identified but not ta-ken.I saw the same fellow twice on a stream branch below Kupei.They sit in the ferns and grass beside the water where they hide their nest somewhere.They are quick to sense an intrusion.Once it flew up close to my feet;I found a place hollowed out in the grass where he had been hidind.Then,very often,they roost in the lower branches of trees close to the water.The fine male we got up at the grebe pond back of Tiop in May came and alighted on a dead limb and so helped to complete the collection. The varieties of parrots and parrakeets are distributed from the shore to the mountain top in all sizes and colors.The only species I have seen at 5000 feet are the green parrakeet and the omni-present cockatoo.The large green and re parrots,male and female,and the noisy red coconut parrot range up to about 4000.The few examples that we collected were taken along the shore for reasons of convenience.The blue-headed parrakeet is also present up to 4000 feet. The two larger birds are regarded as pests by plantation managers who are generally glad to see us hunting them;it seems they often kaikai the young nuts, drilling right through the tough fibre and shell.At 3000 feet you begin

(57) ni eved I jadw nadt hild yna roi bian ed bluoo erom jadW [illegible] ni lu'li'uaaed bnu, 'yaefiios,jnefis'-j'tiwa befilaj-gnoi edj roi buim mii ered no wae'inoljem bedoreq,amojjed mzeria bmora ynam buiT noY ? [illegible] ni aeeooma doom n'liw,jdnoob on,jdgumo era hoidw,a'cossni efil ynaT + bnu bridkoaid begniw-j'janr ent juoda yae I dao jadW.tdgill amivaw yeaa era yedi -bha yi'qais nao I,ybaeris biae need nad doom od ?ania .nixa aan hoidw,('id-rox')dasnij-amorg ro"ajjiq"ent guibrageh (no)eno nees privad yino,doum nwob juq jonnso I,benofinem need ybaer nj ai ji.eaqmiig a jaut nedj bna(j-S yam -qolt js qinj gnigmao tedai ti y'idatorq ni ji soisa annaliva e'liivniaquob ent 'o gni'aeterni jaom .aerd naiwolle'y,euio debai a joomis,jdgif vreyV.bnaiai edj oj ra'luo -er zaaard revoi ent ni atodise't y'revria bnu,rehailgnik bnai ent ekii [illegible] era egniw enT.ajrevoo gniv reqqu ent ni bna guiw'edj rabnu noig evidan ent oj gnibrcooa)bnmorg ent no abe't bna ejsen ji roi yrajnem a'nit daum'd to seloega niajmoom ent ekii.(ent yi'beduobnru bna atnav i'er a jaegguas iiid bna baed enT,ajosoni liama bna abeaa no abee't ono to enT.kui booy vd y'qimis beniajde bna yraw yiemerjxe ai ji.qidanofij a aaarj ent ni snoy saw bna liarj ent no jeet' ym eroled behaalt waa I 'yrraup uin neea eved jaam e'qeutT.nug ym saia'r bluoo I evoled duroas [illegible] emoa bib ed,esife;gnixosa ro gni'aer teiup gnijjia saw ed efidw doum egnar Jon ob yedi.kua ent n'liw ji jog ed sabaoed ga'kija.a mo entT.0057 ja enim waa I;0061 juoda js ain joda e'qeutT.jeet' 0005 avoda ifae aTI.y'tirmalik'at yna n'liw brid ent womi Jon bib lequM 'to sevitan gnoi yinlat a ze sevitan ent yd bediroaeb ai jud braen Jon eved I qoie tdgils a n'liw edon a gnialar ned's,ejon emo no gniomemcoo,efi'idw entj juoda rot efaoe gnibneoa na no ybaeda gniumdnoo bnu,nsewjed ni -ojamonoi ai hoidw,eman ent ooned -omisaij'ro! abne ji eredw sejon erom "emaa ent iia juo gnia"eH."id-r-o-x-ox"-oieeq a 'zo aemiceqa e'dit gnirnoea ni ejamujroi need evad eW jdguao redje edt bna emi'yaib ent ni joda erew oWT.iwo doercoa liama gniidmeer,e'gamiiq doi'r yrev ni bna liams at ji.jdgim ja evitan a yd liab"ef're'd niajcaa vd bejnesarq saw hoidw,oroxinav mor't nemiceqa a bnaed eved eW."novsahN inyoR"re'noocoa ent'a'ymaquob ajialaiM ent 'to -oe'loo edt ni era enon y'iesamj'ro'lmo;aolomooo we'r a no kwar jdgim a tj Jon tud hel'ijsnehi need oafa and nored rejaw bnaini nwodT.enT.nois yedT.lequM woled donard maeja a no eolwJ wofle? emaa ent waa I.nex nen efend ehil vedj eradw 'rejaw edt ekiaed-aaary bna artel ent ni jis eefo qu weif ji enno,nolaujni na eanea oj dolup era yedT.eredwemoa eed had ed eradw aaany ent ni juo bewillion eoalf a bnwoi I;jeet' ym ej solo aeert to sednared revoi ent ni 'ssoor yedj,neflo yrev,nenT.bnihid oit 'to rood o bnoq edereg ent ja qu jog ew eiam eniT enT.rejaw ent oj ent efiaqmoa of be'led oe bna'dmif baeb a no befdgifa bna emao yam ni .neilce'looe bejudirraih era ajeek'sraxq bna ajorraq 'to seijserav entT yino enT.erclio bna aeila iia ni poJ niajmoom.ent oj erona ent mor' -imco entj bna jaeddraaq neerq ent era jeet' 0005 ja neea eved I aefoeqa td bnu,efmel bna eiam,ajorraq eb bna nee'r eyrai enT.eojaxcoo jneae'rq jeid ealq axe weT eneT.0004 juoda oj qu egnav jorraq jnnooo her yalon en'.soninevnon 'to onseer roi erona ent gnola nekat erew bejoe'licc ew tevnai oxt enT .reel,000+ of qu jneae'rq oafa ai jeexarraq bebaen-enid y'liarenag era onw steghanm nois'dnailq vd ajeeq sa bebragen era abrid ,suim gunoy ent lexian net'o yedT amosa ji;medj gnitnud au eea of haig tged nov josT.0006 jk.liehs bna erdil h'poet ent dguomd jdgir gnili'ch

(73) to hear the shrill squeals of the little green parrakeets that inhabit the high treetops in large flocks.I have seen over a hundred fly in unison from one tree to another.They get the kind of seeds they like up there and rarely descend to any plebian level.All this makes them very hard to persuade with a shot-gun- lively as crickets,always on the move- they do not sit still even while eating.To shoot one the hunter's head must remain at right angles to his body for at least ten minutes;this when practiced for an hour or two guarantees a stiff neck and spots before the eyes.However,we collect- ed a good series without paralysis.The pigmy parrot for quite some time re- mained an enigma since neither G.R., nor I could report sight of one,al- though we thought we had heard them;but perhaps we were confusing the squeaks with those of the parrakeets.Was this remarkable species(Nasiterna) on Bougainville or not? The natives affirmed its presence in the vicinity when questioned with descriptive gesticulation.At last Tutepe brought one in the day before we left Kaino.(This shows what a native hunter can do if he is interested.)The size and build of this first example looked similar to those taken on other large islands.It happened to be blind in the star- board eye,but that didn't matter much.We had the bird.The natives said,"this fella kai-kai skin belong big fella tree;now,one fella he got mark- this fella no got".And"he make place belong him along house belong anis(ants)". All very satisfying,but why had we not run across a few in our rambles? Be- cause we did not scan the treetops with enough persistence when we heard them calling;and because there were very few of the large trees that at- tract them both for feeding and for nesting in the neighborhood of Kaino. The hospitable species of ants that harbor the parrots(not more than one pair to an ant-house- see the specimen from Choiseul),build on the whitish grey trunks of huge trees(califila,I think)about 8-I2 feet above the ground. Later,fortunately,on the Balbi and Tiop trips we obtained additional speci- mens,which proved remarkable variation from types hitherto collected.All together we got five more.Two of these were mature males,irides brown, feet olive,and beautifully colored plumage- red,orange,blue,green,black- more striking than the species taken from the high land of Guadalcanal and Kulambangra,but marked on the same order.The other three were the usu- al green like the Kaino specimen,dark on the back and light on the breast. There is a bluish tinge on the top of the head and a bit of orange and blue under the bill which is black.In the flamboyant fellow the bill is whitish. How could the same species vary so? Looks to me like two different kinds. The singleton of Kaino was a female,iris orange like the other four.Possi- bly we have obtained no females of the bright-colored type.But it seems to me that with such divergence in the male birds there must be two species represented.Lack of good series of both gives me little evidence to work on. The kingfisher is well established on Bougainville but yielded no new forms,which was somewhat disappointing.Guadalcanal gave us that big, brown species;surely this great land mass ought to have contribute another new one.The most common are the"land"(ee-ee) and the blue-backed,found up to 3500 feet.We invariably heard their snappy calls in the early morning; the one sings straight out(ee-ee-ee)and the other does the same but with a sort of yodel.One rare mountain kingfisher,the"white-footed",similar to one taken by G.R.,on Choiseul,is in the collection.It lives near these wonder- ful streams,admirable bird,and is seldom at home.I saw two on the same ford which I visited twice;both had urgent appointments.The call is a pert sort of pipe- three sharp notes at a time.Stomach contents revealed insects. Along the shore we found three additional species- the big white-headed

"[illegible]" [illegible] Jia Jon ob yado -svom end no ayawia,ajekiro as yievif -mwg-joda a dijw aj ta niamer Jamn bead e'rofmud end ono Jooda oT.gnitaa elidw neve liita db ne Toi benicteq neww aidj;aetunim ndj Janel ja roi yhod aid of aegna sifco ew,revewoh.neye end stoted atoga bna Xoon liija a:seednarung owj ro i emid onos eling roi lenzaq yaliq endT.alayfaraq suoddiw seires boog a be -la,eno To Jdigla Tproer hinoo I ton ,.H.O Tedjian sonis angline na beniam endJ gatafi'bo erev ew qgadteq Jud;meds bnaer had ew fdywodt ew ngnoot Tegliaak/velceqa eidaxramer aidj aaw.atoeKvaraq end lo eanot ddiw aksupa ,infioiv end ni coneaserg adi benrilla sevitian endT ?Jon ro ellivnaguoh no ew Jdyword eqeJUT Jaai JA.noijaimolteq evltqiroab diiw benoideeq neww ob nao reJmmu sylan a Janw awora aidl).onlak jlaJ ew egoted yeb end ni mifma bekooi eiqmaxe Janll aidj To blind bna ezia enT(.botaerenti ai"ch ada end mi brild ed of beneqqad ji.abnsiai eyrai Tedjo no nedas eaons od ",,lasa aovitan end.brild end had et.oum reJdam j'nbih JanS Jud,eje brood aind -kram jog en lifter onc,wom;eort alief gid gnofed nixa lek-lak alief (sjna)ina gnofed eanon gnole aid gnolod scalf ekam ed"bna."Jog on alief? ?seidmer tuo ni wet a anoron mut Jon ew hdi ydw Jud,gniy'elitas yrav.lla broed ew neww coneiala'eq ngyone djiw qeotser end usea Jon hib ew saanad -da Jado seerd egrai aid lo wet yrev erev eredJ eunsoed bna;gniffao medd onlak To boontodpian end ni gnijeen roi bna.gnibes' roi djod mend JoanJ one nadt evom Jon|sfortaq end Todmad JanS asna lo seloeqa elidajieqod endT lJidw end no blind,(bueierO mor? nemioeqa adt eea -eand-Jna na of riq ong end evods reel.Si-8 snoda(knint I,allifao)seet egud lo ainmit yerg as lanofitbaa beniajdo ew spijT qoIT bna idinS end no,y'ieJarnjro?,TeJaJ IIA.hodpeffoq oj'rendid aeqyj mo?T noJtai'ray eidakramer bevorq doliw,aneg ,nwedd sebihi,aemam erumam erev eesdJ lo owT.evom eviT jog ew Taidsegoj -kaaid,neerg,oid,agmno,ber -ogamufq herofoo y'iluIjuueed bna,evlic Jeet fansefahau To bnaI dgiid end mor? nedas seloeqa end nadiJ gnixije evom an edT erev eonst Tedco endT.rehno emaa end no bekram Jud.angnadmaLuK bna neod end no Jugiil bna road end no kurb,nemioeqa onlak end exii neerg la J bna agnaro lo Jid a bna baon end lo qoj end no egult daIuid a ai eredT lijine ai liid end weifet jnayodmalf end ni.kosid ai doidw liid end Teiw pnix fnarellia owd edii em of ekoed Toe yrav seloeqa ema adJ bnuu wot aoo?.mdoi Tedjo end aKii agnaro aiki,aiamel a aaw onlak lo noJagnia endT amees ai Jud.eqyo benofoco-Jdgiud end lo seiamel on beniajdo eyan ew yid seloeqa owd ed Jaun eredJ abrid elam end ni conegevib nova ofi JanS em mow of eonahiva aijjii ew sevlg djod lo seires boog lo xoal.bedneserqet .no aieiy Jud ellivnaguoh no benaildease liew ai Tedaltgnik endT J Jadd an evag lanofahau,gninioqqaalb Janwemoo asw doliw,anro? wen on Tona etudidnce eved of jdguo saam bnaI Jaerg aidS yleuna;seloeqa nwod a bmual,bedoad-oid end bna (se-ee)"bnaI"end eea nommo Jom endT.ene wen gnimoo yiras end ni affec qqama Tiedj bnaen yidaitzevni eW.Jeel TeO of Jole end ema end acoh Tedjo end bna(ee-ee-ee)Jue Jdglaria egnia ano end of ralims,"bedoor-ejin"end,Tedaltgnik niafmom emen eno.leboy lo.3roa bnow eerd? Teon asvil ji.noijaelico end ni ai,luesiorO no,..H.O yd nexaj i ema end no owJ waa I.enod ja mobies ai bna,brid eldarisha,emaerfa lu'l ja j-req a of ifao endT.efnemjnloqqa Jngaw had dJodjesiw baaiav I noidw .adobani helsever ajnojmoo nomoro,endJ a ja aejon quade eemj -eqi? lo beham-aidnugid end -seloeqa lanofitbba eemi bmuI ew evoda end gnolA

(74) Solomon Islander, the white-eared, and the "little blue". Of the two latter only one specimen each was obtained, both up rivers. The white-eared likes true bush on the bank and is generally close to the mouth; the "little blue" prefers the mangroves where he can fish well-hidden at high tide. Other shore birds we took the white and the green heron, and a smaller green swamp-heron, sand-piper, lesser yellow-legs, and curlew. (Later at Numa Numa I saw two kinds of plover on a small island off shore- the golden and another which I did not know.) February 10 - 26 Well spent at Arawa Plantation where we used the scanty balance of our cartridges along the shore and up the small rivers. The rest of the time we developed film, wrote notes, smoked, conversed, and rested. On February 27 I left for a short camping and collecting trip up the coast to Numa Numa; the Doctor went to Rabaul, G.R., remaining with Mr. Esson. On March 10 the "France" arrived from Samarai, Papua. Note; These are the last of my notes to appear type-written. My first drafts are quite readable. Any stenographer in the department will re- ceive a feather for her hat for every word that is judged "illegible" by a committee of sufficient acumen. H.H.

Feb 27- Arrived Numa Numa, 60 miles up the coast from Kieta at 8 A.M., after a fitful night at an angle of 95° on a sand bank which the A.V. Marquise got on and gradually off - very, during the night. The Doctor went on for a holiday in Rabaul. J.R., holding down the residence at Numa. Mr Thompson, the manager of the plantation very kind and hospitable. Numa is the largest in the T.N.G., comprising 4000 acres and carrying a labor line of 260. The equipment includes about 5 miles of narrow-gauge railway, dry-kilns for curing copra, an ice-machine and a good-sized schooner. Wonderful food, all fresh and sleep in a real bed. I talked to Pai peko'i, tulul of Kiviri village on the salt-water & arranged for carriers. Feb 28- We got started after lunch. Pappekoi and I walked 2 miles along the beach. The gear went over by cause. We passed through a place called Tavis and arrived at Esparavia where we made camp before dark. The villages in this district are quite small - 5 or 6 houses, built with semi-circular roofs of sac-sac, the walls being made of plait- ed bamboo in a diagonal pattern. This is the cleanest place I have seen on Bougainville. The ground is well-drained by ditches dug around the

village proper and the natives keep the open space in the center well swept with fresh brooms and clear of pigs. The houses are not on piles as they are in rock of Rieta. I made my home under a projecting shed of the kukuwai's abode. A few mos- quitoes called during the night. Feb. 29th. Went out shooting in the morning with most of the male population. One teal duck, a long-tailed swift, yellow-headed parrot, and some kingfishers. Saw a white-eared kingfisher on a large river and a peculiar ground-dove with a long tail which at first I mistook for the long-tailed dove (kotute'), but the natives informed me "this fella belong ground all together he make him kaikai & make him house." They seemed to know the pigmy parrot. Saw a small flock of what looked like the red parakeet (yellow-bis- and black head). One village visited-Viakoa in the process of moving which illustrates the nomad- dic practice of the natives of this and surround- ing district. Two large bush rats were brought in at Eropawia as I had inquired about them. When I set to work to put up the material and looked in the two cartridge-boxes the Doctor had so carefully packed when he offered to help

(77) I found corn meal. I had a biscuit tin of the stuff and had asked the Doc to tie up a box of arsenic. Thus, the result of not checking up. I could not make up the rat skins, so skin- ed them out and used salt + ashes on the hide. These are the first specimens of the large bush rat taken since I have been out in the field. The natives quote two kinds - one a ground dweller and the other arboreal. Both eat fruit, roots, and are vegetarian like the phe! ayer. The ground species is the larger. Their coats were thick, iris brown with a hudge to the eyeball like the possum, long whiskers & sharp teeth. The tail is quite strong and has a slight prehensile ability. The natives kai- kai them like the possum and often con- duct little hunts for them with bows + arrow and dogs. They promised to get more. Also put up the duck since it is the first one taken. I feel discouraged. March 1 - Parpako! has a "charley-horse" this morning and decides he cannot climb. So - Mukwarapkin, Eropawia warrior will "look out along me." We reached this village - Mukikekow, a few hours walk up a lazy grade and our friend refused to go any further. The kankas higher up were not friendly, "savvy make fight - savvy no they alon

(78) government" - and so we stuck. Saw a pigmy parrot - they must be plentiful somewhere in Bougainville. I have had several excellent angles on Balbi, the mountain I would like to climb; it does not look any 10,000 feet to the crater. But the bush is cer- tainly impenetrable from this side - about 20 miles of saw-tooth peaks right up to the summit. The thing has been attempted twice. Went out collect- ing and got a cuckoo and two more kingfishers, with us. Aweic my eye is not "on the tell". The lo- cel me showed me their garden of great ex- tent. The soil up in this region (2000 feet) grows beautiful taro. We sat down to a feed of water-melons (introduced by the government) and re- turned to the village. Slept on a half dozen lengths of bamboo - very comfortable compared to the three slabs of tree trunk at Eropawia. Since the language differs here with every district, it seems foolish to give native names for birds. These are all vastly different in around Kopei & Raino. Kingfishers - titura White-footed Kingfisher - ole-kuakura Cuckoo - piwi Shrike - caseda Yellow-headed Parrot - Kubato Red-bellied Flycatcher - Kowekera (Mawa-tetu) Black Fantail - tatapedia Hawk - takawa Bush Rat - gutuguturi Red-knobbed Pigeon - urugo

1991 Mue - Skopin Thickhead - wateko Doves - kukutan Pigmy Parrot - tuligout (Mawa - koitutin) Megapode - orava March 2. Back to Tospauia with the kukuai and what's his name. Another cuckoo. During my little ramble I have seen only one long-tailed dove. On the way up to Kopei we saw plenty. I think certain birds are somewhat restricted by feeding-areas. The weather has been splendid the last two days with a great moon at night. My trip has not been a howling success except for the bush rats. I am afraid most of the bird-skins will go bad. I shall always check all equipment for future camping trips. March 3. Arrived at Numa Numa plantation about 4 P.M. Saw a large eagle hawk while crossing a river but could not reach it. He was flying along the coast with a big piece of wood for his nest clasped in his talons. At the plantation I met M. Yotoshi, the jap captain of the Numa schooner. He has climbed higher than anyone eve up Bazana, the other volcano to the S., which is always fairly active. He got within 600 feet of the crater where sulphur fumes pre- vented any further ascent. A German party, well equipped, almost lost their lives, according to report when a sudden outburst came as they

(80) climbing up with instruments for meteorological investigations. Balthi has certainly never been climbed. And it is true that birds do not show variation above 3000 feet? I should like to have a look. March 3-5 Pleasently spent writing for the "Marquise". Since she is undoubtedly held up I shall take another jaunt up to see small Bute on the invitation of Mr. Thompson where I can visit a real, live American - Father Wade, a Marist missionary, who at one time was thinking about his chances of getting into big league baseball. Saw two alli- gators to-day when out on a small island off- shore. This harbor has a reputation for them & sharks. I also saw golden plover & what I think were turkeys. March 6 - Left in the "Malaguna" for Bute. We spent the night at Trip island which lies close to the plantation of a gentleman who wrote the Doctor about a peculiar water-bird that lives on a "swim lake at 3500 feet" in back of his place. Probably something common - a gallinule or something. He declares they are "about the size of a pigeon with red bill & feet & swimmers."

March 7. We made Bonis at Bute Pass age at nine and were immediately commandeered to carry a sick man to Rieta - very ill with malignant malaria. So we left for points south as soon as possible and got back to Numa Numa before dark. It is the worst case of fever that I have ever seen. March 8. Off for Rieta at daybreak with the patient apparently better; but the poor wretch died about two hours before our arrival. I found both the Doctor and G.R., camped in Tom Etery's house. They sent another cable to AM NH yesterday, applying for more money & particulars about our future. G.R. returned to Numa. The Doctor & I slept at Rieta, the guests of the local merchant. March 9 - After the funeral of our deceased friend I walked over to Numa. The case of George Ganday, the unfortunate Frenchman who died before my eyes, is one that illustrates a phase of island life. He had been a heavy drinker and under the stress of hard work with picky diet he collapsed. G.R. was at Numa in good

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(82) fit and humor. And with Jock Esson we had a pleasant reunion. The Doctor remained in Kieta with eyes seaward to pick up the France. We met Mr. & Mrs. Beck unexpectedly in Rabaul who imparted a lot of information - the ship left Samarai over a week ago. Mr. Beck has decided to relinquish his long leader ship. March 10- Having no ammunition we cannot collect. We do some business with the natives of Dawa village in snails and insects. A meri died there yesterday and Jock and my self accompanied a bunch of the plantation boys to what was a kind of memorial celebration. About thirty of them presented themselves at the house of the deceased and were conducted to a paw-paw tree by the husband. Here they lined up twenty yards off and in very orderly fashion each shot their arrows. Something like our custom of leaving flowers on graves. When it was over the kukurai of the village gave them betel-nut and a feed of coconut pudding. March 11 - Sunday and little activity. I developed a few films I had taken up at Nuna Nuna. March 12 - The France how into sight at 10 A.M. giving us quite a thrill. The Doctor, Captain Lay and all hands on board plus a new lad-Philip from Rabaul. Here up anchor after we had loaded all the birds and our gear from Mr. Esson's house, and proceeded to Kieta. March 13-18 Many cables were sent to New York. Mr. Beck has turned the directorship over to me. Dr Drown after much discussion he decided to leave. G.R. will remain until the new real leader arrives - Dr Murphy who will join us in May somewhere in the Solomons. The condition of the France and the affairs of the expedition are not in exactly correct shape to be transferred into the hands of a [illegible] young & inexperienced as I

(83) However, I shall do my best. The leak up forward has been repaired but the vessel makes just as much water as she did before she went on the slip through the inner stem gland. Captain Lang says the settling of the shaft and packing & installing the gland was a hurried job late on a Saturday, and not properly done. Mr. Beck wanted to get the vessel back to work as quickly as possible. The magneto is lacking - taken off to be sent to Sydney for repairs.. Our total ignition depends upon three fairly old "Hot-Shot" batteries and a half-used storage battery. Sixty-nine pounds and seven- teen shillings were handed over to me by the Captain. Fortunately, we have a supply of 100 cases of benzine, delivered by Captain Lang on arrival. All the ship's pa- pers are made out for Sawarai, Papua to Fiji, British Solomon Is. The France came into Kieta on a false plea of engine trouble. I shall have to go to Ratual - primarily to repair the leak, which requires pumping every half-hour even while at anchor, and also primarily to enable Dr. Provine to catch the Mon- tors for Sydney. It seems to me necessary that I see Mr. Beck personally. The instructions he left are quite inadequate. So we leave Kieta on March 18. March 18 - Afore up and steamed 60 miles in less than 6 hours, arriving at Huma Huma at 2:45 P.M. Since her cleaning the France is certainly faster. March 19 - Reached Buka Passage at 4 P.M. where Mr. Vivian came on board - also Mr. Kertell, the medical assistant, or "lik-lik doctor", who is stationed at the passage, and his dull wife and children. March 20 - off at 6:30 for Ratal via the direct sea route. On account of the report of Mr. Vivian

(84) That the Montoro is leaving Rabaul very shortly and having just about enough ignition power to take us the distance with allowance for 50 miles of sailing, we shall not have much time to spend on sea birds. March 21-22 - The vessel made good time into Rabaul. We sailed about 1/3 the total distance: A strong counter-current forced the use of the engine in channel between New Britain and New Ireland. Previously, from Kieta to Rabaul took 3 weeks. The ship was anchored and pratique granted by 11 o'clock. G.R. suddenly decided to go home in order to marry the girl; it happened yesterday morning, so I shall evidently be alone until Dr. Murphy arrives. March 22-April 3 - Herewith a multitude of business took place. The leak was fixed by having larger screws made for the inner gland. Rome took the contract. I had conference with Mr. Beck which proved very informative. He gave me 433 pounds for expenses, and paid for 150 more cases of engine (18 shillings a tin here). I also got the ship's code book from him and became cognizant of many things that puzzled me. G.R. will take passage for home from Manila for which port he sailed on the SS Calulu on March 31, 21. Rome takes the Montoro and left to spend the interim before he sails with Jack Evans' mother-in-law at Tokua-Kokopo. Mr. and Mrs. Beck will take the Marsina. He has been doing considerable collecting here. I saw many

(85) of the specimens, and they are remarkable for their beauty. We shipped all the Bougainville stuff except the insects, and part of the material in solution; the former was not entirely dry. I pur- chased ship's stores and supplies ashore, paying cash for everything. We have had a carpenter on board and the vessel leaves in tip-top shape, except for the sddy engine with no magneto ( 12 Hot Shot Batteries had to be secured @ 1 pound each; these with the recharged storage battery will see us through until the old magneto returns, repai- ed from Sydney or a new one is obtained) and the need of a new fore-ail. Material for new main rigging is on board. So we got clearance and hove up at 4:30 P.M. after a touching farewell from Mr. & Mrs. Beck. She made new curtains for the cabin while we were in Rabaul. Good luck to them. We are off to Buka. April 4 - Kept an eye out for the Blanche Bay shear water with no avail. Very few seabirds about. April 5 - Arrived & anchored in Queen Carolna Hafen off Buromtui, Father Wade's (American) mission station. April 6 - Good Friday - No work - spent most of my time with Father Wade who hails from Pro- dence, R.I., and is a great scout. He forsook his chance as a big league 2nd baseman to take the orders of the Marist Brotherhood, choosing South Seas Mission work because it had the reputation of being the most arduous. Took many photographs of the station, its church and school, etc. April 7 - Necks, David, and I collected on Porosa I., about 3 miles off shore from Buka. Here

(86) we found the ashy flycatcher with the red belly, differing so radically from the type found on the mainland. Consistently, we have taken this bird on outlying islands - not more than five miles away from a large island that supports a species of the ordinary bold flycatcher in one of its many intra-island variations. This has always puzzled me. The mainland type is not present. I shot a small hawk similar in plumage to the great eagle hawk and David one of the blue-tacked hawks. Pororan village is under the Marist ecclesiastical See. The natives are well-built and live in two villages at the norther extremity. Father Wade has taught them to make cane chairs and tables so that the interiors of the houses give the appearance of mod- ern beach-bungalows. They are built in long lines, raised on short piles and with one connecting porch covered by adjoining roofs. The houses are divided into rooms. The village has extensive coconut groves and does much fishing. We purchased a lot of fine fish. Shillings were the only thing accepted. I got some photographs of the village & the residents. Also took the church interior and the Mission Station over on Buika. April 8-9 Attended Easter service in Father Wade's church on Pororan. David & Fraser accompanied me. I was given a sepa- rate little seat on the chancel where I could appreciate everything. The ritual was strictly correct but a dozen cute monkeys as altar-boys in uniform lava-lavas. In performing mass Father Wade had three well-trained acolytes. Over a hun- dred took communion; on the whole they seemed to take it seriously although how much of it is 'imitative' & not under- stood I cannot say. They certainly do not understand

(87) our religion. They simply have a hankering for any thing mystical and Catholicism is the best form for them. Father Wade declares his parishioners "most devout" and well will saving. He is a beautiful character--re- ceives no compensation and is resigned to die somewhere around the Bukas". He conducts a remarkable school, using the most ingenious analogies to illustrate knowledge. Then he administers to the sick and advises them on everything wholly unselfish and sincere. He is the only person in this district who is respected and more often loved by all of the white residents. I listened to a sermon in "pidgin", at the conclusion of which he called for prayer, for the expe- ditions success and my victory over Balbi, the vol- teer. I have decided to take a camping trip up there. Father Wade can lend great assistance. For this purpose he and I went inland on Buka to Gaga where Father Chaize dwells. He knows more about Bougainville than anyone, having been here 18 years. We arrived about 6 P.M. after a five-mile canoe trip up a river--we with a ris- ing tide of fever. Father Chaize had just finished evening mass. He was very cordial and intensely interesting. The evening meal was truly monastic. We talked until very late--mostly about Buka and its natives. He said, "I have been way there for eighteen years, and I am just realizing how little I know about them." The ordinary white resident knows nothing about the real native according to him. He showed me numerous photographs and a grammar & dictionary of the Buka language. It is highly inflected, like Greek, with a very limited alphabet and about eight verb moods, with a corresponding number of tenses. Apparently there is one language on Buka and many dialects. Fifteen years ago, the greater part of them practiced cannibalism. In attestation of their sincerity as Christians he said they came regularly to church, men, children, and wives with pickaninnies, through

(88) all kinds of weather, some of them many miles. The Church itself will seat about 500 and he declares it is far too small now. Today he had them sit- ting in the aisles. He is most enthusiastic about my proposed ascent of Balthi and gave me all kinds of advice and information. He made a map showing how I could avoid the most dangerous sections-- Kumua and Kiviki. He will give me two boys who were brought up in the villages on the coast which we shall probably start from-- Hamou or Pukuito, the latter being recommended. The government said Hamo "If you go up in back of Hamou, they will kill you certainly," said the Reverend Father. All this transpired while I was wrapped in blankets. This kindly, be- whiskered, ghostly, confessor is also my nurse for the pre- sent, feeding me hot lime drinks and quinine. Next year he makes an extensive tour (by special demand-- understand, for he would much rather stay at Goga with his boys), lecturing on the Marist Mis- sion. He includes New York and I made him pro- mise he would visit the AMNH. The only part of the conversation that waxed ornithological was one statement of his that he, himself, had shot a pelican on a river in Banoue (Bougville). Can you beat it? April 10-- Woke up with a giddy head. After our ascetic breakfast of coffee, jam, and murty bread I shot a kingfisher and demonstrated the Beck method before Father Chaije and some of his trustees. With two guides, retainers or what have you I started back for Bei passing through two villages, quite close together-- one Catholic and the other Methodist. The grim com- petition between these two is keener than it is betwee

(89) Christ and the Devil. Fortunately the Catholics are way ahead, as they should be. All the Fathers are sincere workers and gentlemen. They receive no stipend (the low est paid Methodist receives 400 pounds per annum), and they are in the work for life. Most of the Methodists seem to be in it for what it is worth. As nephew to, they may, commence with the light of Jesus in their eyes, but they soon become disillusioned and go in for blackmail and nuckraking - playing the government off against the planters and vice versa, or worse. Rev. Cropp, the head Woohoogal of this district has just been scathed by the Natal Court to the tune of 250 quid for slander. One gent who manages Dewan Plantation near Berusotwi and claims he is American-born is an ex-Methodist. His wife also. I never hope to meet two slimier beings. Because of his ability to intrigue the natives he is cal- led "the uncrowned king of small Buka." But enough - I took a bluetit, the first taken here, several honey- suckers and white-eyes, and blue-backed kingfisher. All the species noted to date resemble the Bognain- ville types except the orby flycatcher of Pororan. This is undoubtedly also present on Petats, Yame, and Matungum, islands similarly located but which we shall not have time to visit this trip. In spite of my two day rest at Gaza I boared the France with high temperature. David and Hicks have been collecting during my absence. Hicks returned a white-footed king- fisher - represented hitherto on Choosul (by g.R.) and on Bognaville (by native hunter). April 11- Hicks and David ashore will instructions to return early at which time we hope up and shifted back to

(90) Burorotui to pick up the two boys who belong on the west coast of Bougainville, Batu and Kove, the for- mer from Hanon and his mate from Pukuto. They seem very intelligent, especially Batu, who has been an engineer on a big schooner around the Bukes for many years before he worked for the Mission. He is a genuine convert; for he receives practically no pay and has much longer hours and harder duties than formerly-but better and more human treatment. Father Wade gives us God-speed before we leave for the South end. The goa' launch came by and Mr. Vivian came aboard & examined our papers, from Rabaul. He is out tax-collecting. Seven still with me. April 12-The boy filled the water tanks between showers. Hicks and David had little success on acct of the heavy rain. Ho've up after lunch and proceed- ed down to an anchorage opposite Matoungun I. I am convinced I have Dengue Fever; there is nothing malarial about a four-day stretch of it with no varia- tion in temperature. April 13- Hicks and David off early. The Dengue rash has began to speckle my face, chest, and shoulders. Man- nel has been ill with true malaria for the past three days-a sicker though not a more ugly man than me. April 14-Decided to carry on to Big Buka to-day. The time we have put in on The smaller island is enough to give a representative collection of birds. Buka Passage is only 1/2 mile across, and a matter of a couple of hundred yards in some places. Variation is fairly

(91) is not to be expected, although there are certainly species present on Bougainville that are not found here. I told both the boys to keep a sharp look- out for pignut parrots, but they have not seen any yet. Buka Island has no high elevation - nothing exceeding 1300 feet. Its dimensions are 30 miles long x 8 miles at the greatest breadth. The northern half is mostly low land. There are no large rivers suitable for small boats, on the west coast. Reached the Passage at noon and I visited the D.O., leaving instructions about receiving our guns from Kieta. He could not take them be- cause permits had not come through. Friend Vivian would like very much to accompany us up Bali' and inferred we should have little success without the "big fella Kiep" and his police boys. He has too many taxes to glean. King George makes between 30,000 and 40,000 pounds a year on this - a rather raw deal from the natives' point of view. All villages in the so- called "controlled areas" must pay the 10 shillings a head. Very few receive yearly visits either by medical patrol or police patrol, and when they are so fortunate it is simply to collect taxes in areas or to take census. This shows how many have died, which means less work for the Doctor & his assistant, and how many have been born which means more tax money. A few are sent to the hospital if they can be caught; medicines are left with the medical tut-tut. Conditions are much better in Southern Bougainville (Buin-Siwai-Kieta districts). It is unfortun- ately true that all the villages with govt. kokorais which are situated above the coconut-growing level (a little under 2000 feet) are totally ignored. Having no cocoanuts from which to make copra to sell, they

(92) Can get tax-money only by barter or by a common fund supplied by plantation wages, which the young working bucks are loath to part with. The villages have not retained the communal spirit as they have on Malaita. Here, all tax revenue comes from the wages of men working for white people. So - up with the pick and on to Soraker, arriving at 2:30. Here we found quite a community - 5 white men and a good engineering outfit. The place runs two schooners, one, the

(93) rumors of another mountain lake in the hiza Range west and south of Soraken. This part is not as populous as Kumua and Kwika, located on the fertile slopes of Balbi and the Emperor Range. April-16- Sailed for Kumua at 6:15 arriving about noon. I took mail ashore for Tom Latimer, manager of the plantation. It is a subsidiary of Soraken and he has the unique dis- tinction of being in communication by telephone. He had some swell tale about the Kumua natives. They have threatened him several times indirectly, once sending word roundabout that the whole place was to be sacked and his hands & feet were to go in the stew-pot. Mr. Latimer gave me some fresh bread and fruit in return for a promise to call in on our return. Hove up and proceeded on to Hamon where Patu went ashore with us to interview the Kukurai and his tutel. They refused to come because of personal animity with the chief of Pukuto concerning the usual thing - women. We spent the night here, Hick, & David collect- ing during the afternoon. Very heavy breakers on the black- sand beach making landing quite difficult. It is typical of this coast. The outside, however, is no where near as foul as it is reported in Ratmul. The France rolled considerably but the holding seemed quite safe. April-17- Hick, David, and I ashore shooting. We had great tructions landing with the small boat. I shook off the last drops of my Delwyn fever yesterday. Manuel is also much improved. The sandflies on this beach are "simply shocking." Hick met some natives on a bush trail that ran up toward the highland; they beat it on sight. This is an ominous harbinger. Will the Pukuto men help us along? April-18- Left Hamon at 7:15 A.M. and steamed to a 1/4 off shore from Pukuto, which is situated on a large

(94) clearing on top of a high bluff - about 2 miles inland and with a few miles offshore. We only stopped to look around. The vessel continued on to Piruatu, 15 miles further down the line. Here we hoped to secure canoes up as far as Pukuito village, at least. The kukurai came aboard and agreed to help me. There is a good, safe anchorage there between two small islands. The natives are well-built and look healthy. They came out to see the ship - they are evidently rarely visit- ed, if at all. Hoed up at 1 P.M. and sailed back to holding ground off Pukuito with 8 Piruatu natives on board. They received kai-kai from our galley. Fine during the night, but for a heavy swell from the N.W. April-19. Hicks, David, and I were landed with all our gear in two boat-loads. The Piruatu boys and we reached Pu- kuito by noon. It is much farther than I estimated. Ele-vation 1600 feet. The natives but for the old kukurai seemed friendly. It is the first time a white man has visited their village although they have seen plenty on the beach at coast-al villages. Riante, the Tul-Tul is Kove's brother. Having been to see him at the Mission and being travelled he has learned pidgin English and was made tul-tul at the Passage and told by the "Krop" to build a government rest-house. The govt., however, has not yet occupied that domicile. We put a door in it for us, the first tenants. Riante was rather dubious about the projected penetration but pro- pised to help - urged by his brother. There is one village that gives access to Balbi with which Pukuito is at present on friendly terms: Hanna. But the men of this place have declared their intention of knocking the first white intruder on the head - presumably the District

(95) Officer. Confidentially, he said they would probably all run off to the bush; and this means danger because they might tell others and arrange a nice wholesale ambush. I said we could dodge all trouble by keeping on the move up the mountain where they would not easily find us. The higher, the fewer - no villages above 3000 feet at the most. So, we shall leave in the morning. All villages except Hanna, including Toreta, which was recommended as a camping place by the government, are on-sight-enemies of the Pukuto men. At that, Hicks learned that certain of the locals have personal ha- treds for certain of the Hanna lad - again, women. But this will not deter us. No collecting was done to-day. Balti sizes about NW. We were very comfortable in the new house. The natives brought plenty of taro for the boys, who love it. We saw the France steaming south to Gajelle Harbor where the skipper will put in new main rigging. April 20 - Left Pukuto with 15 carriers at 11:30. Some of them most picturesque - old men, entirely naked, carrying their taro in a leaf package, young bucks with long hair, just out of their hoopis, and lithe monkeys (or maggots) just in their hats. We shot several birds on the way and camped in the bush at dusk, building a big leaf lean-to. We gave the starers a good feed of rice and fish. All the youngsters slept under the water-proof tarpaulin, packed longitudinally like sardines. We sure did eat after this first hike - up and down our saw-tooth ridges on an abominable trail. It took us a few miles over varied creek bottom, with moss- covered stones and cane brakes. Again I wonder at the

'96' native's ability to balance himself with an unwieldy bundle on the point of a needle. April 21- Up at dawn and broke camp right after Kai-Kai. Then more saw-tooth, roller-coaster grades until we halted about noon about two miles from Hanua. Here we loaded the Winchester and all shot-guns to be prepared like good boy-scouts, in case of any reprisal. We had our defence all figured out. It would not have been another Braddock's defeat. Fortune came our way. One of the carriers who went off a short distance from the trail happened to hear some people from Hanua at work in the bush cutting bamboo. Riaite and I tried to sneak up on them but we could not get to top of the knoll where they were without making a racket. The idea was to grab them and have Riaite talk savvy to them before they could run away. We adopted the next-best scheme- namely, to circle around them and camp on the trail over which they would have to return. They soon approached- a man, two kids, and a young girl. He was armed to the teeth- bow and arrows & tomahawk, and was scared out of his wits. He jumped back and assumed a Marquis of Queensbury attitude but quickly acceded to the talk of our bunch - evidently assuring him that everything was quite O.K. With such a gang he couldn't very well refuse anything- so he led us along. He had agreed to proceed us into the vil- lage and soothe chief and his men just as we did him. What a stroke of luck. Through his mediation a general evacuation was prevented, although Riaite had to hold the chief by the arm until I got close enough to grin at him. The first move was to shoot

(97) a few birds that were sitting around the place to prove the authenticity of our purpose. We did no shooting after we got close enough to the village for them to hear us. Now they started at the first bang. Hanna is a community of three villages--located on three ridges--about 1/2 mile apart--all under the one chief and pooling the produce of their gardens & household arts. We learned later that all the people in the other two villages, who could look over and see the excitement in the main burg, cleared out in toto. Even the meris and youngsters of the principal place made their exit. And it was this that scared some of the Pukuito men and caused a bit of a crisis. A few of them had nothing but spite for some of the Hanna boys. One old cross-eyed chap with a face like a Cheshire cat, told Hicks, he was more at loggerheads than any of the others. "They are coming simply to see what happens to me." He carried a mean-looking weapon--a German police-boy bayonet rammed on the end of a hard- wood stick--evidently salvaged from an old bush murder. David said he saw nine such inside a house at Pukuito. None of the feud-supporters were around. This led them to believe they had gone off to invite hostile villages to their aid against a common foe. Riavite came up while we were eating, and said his men were leaving--"Kanak he speak he like make 'em fight." They had dumped all our gear, and would leave us in a nice pickle. Hicks got excited and wanted to beat it with them. Ruth and Rose came to the rescue with the suggestion that Riavite stay,

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(48) and with as many men as Hanna could produce we continue right up the mountain. It worked. We left part of our stuff with the old kukurai. I gave him a lot of calico, 25 lbs., 1 salt, knives and pipes. By this time he was quite friendly. Most of our new beares have seen 4 or summers, or 50 but they are as stout a crowd of old men as I have ever seen. Stocky, hairy as apes, and well-muscled. The Pu- kuito party set out for home and we clinted from 3 o'clock until dark, reaching 2900 feet where another leaf house was built. Fine during the night. Hicks & David put up the few beds, April 22- Breakfast of cold sardines & tars (our last nights meal was also cold because of lack of water and a suggestion on the part of the boys not to attract attention. The apparent danger was nullified by the late arrival of about a half dozen new who had been among those who had scooted upon our arrival. Returning to the village they found there was nothing to fear and curiosity led them to join the party. Their advent was very impressive - all carrying raw- foo flares which shone on their sleek, jetty limbs. Most of them were youths, well-built, with fine teeth). We had no stop for kai-kai until we reached 5900 feet about 4 o'clock. The ashy fantails and mountain thickhead came into evidence about noon. We all collected, taking these two species, yellow-bit doves, red-breast, and a thrush on the way. We crossed numerous streams, cold and precipitous. One was pointed out as a place for obtaining the red oxide of iron that occurs in clay formation, which the natives use for paint. Very foggy but no rain; the weather so far has favored us. It was advised that we make a camp at this altitude because no large leaves, for thatching, a house - can higher up. The bush on this trek was particularly bad-between 3500-4500 feet we hacked our way through about 3 miles of bamboo. The brother of the old kukurai is the trail.

(99) trunk and guide. He knows the way, undoubtedly the na- tures have been up here before. But a long time back since his track is ever visible. The old boy leads us along by instinct. Occasionally we come across old suc-sac stumps, the stalks of which had been previously cut down for food (the center of the calyx where the leaves wrap themselves on to the trunk is quite tasty). The bamboo was tough - some of the stalks 6 inches in diameter. I received numerous & sundry cuts, al- though the natives did not mind it under their feet. We had two hand axes and about six knives at work up in front- myself included wielding a mean cleaver. We enjoyed a hot meal with cocoa, biscuits & jam. The retainers had a feed of rice. It was the first time they had tasted it. How they smacked their lips over it with a good dusting of salt. So, about ten more joined us this evening, late arrivals being fashionable like the others who came last night. And three or four meris brought taro up. A separate house was con- structed for them a good distance off. We never saw them. We put up our birds before it got too dark. The tempera- ture at 11 P.M. last night was about 21° F. Unfortunately the thermometer was broken in this day's transit - out- side of my barometer, the only other meteorological instru- ment. I should have the gear for recording pressure, humid- ity etc., since this is the highest peak in the Solomons and nothing can stop us now. Rain during the night. April-23 I decided to leave David in the camp here to collect and look after the equipment and supplies. Hicks and I left with as little food as possible - for 48 hours. The old chief and his brother, the pathfinder with about ten others, three little monkeys, set out for the last leg. The brush reminds me very much of that around 5000 feet above Korpei in the Kronprinzen: moss-covered, tree fern everywhere, and stacks of pandanus and suc-sac. However we passed

(100) a sac-sac tree someone would fall out to cut it down. They all had good axes, knives, and pipes. I learned from Riarite, who also sticks with me, that they obtain them by barter from natives from villages in the Piratau District to the southward who get them from other natives, who got them someone else who originally purchased them in the store at Numa Numa. The only road across the northern or central part of Bougainville connects Piratau with Numa, a distance of over 40 linear miles. The government sent a patrol through this line twelve months ago after rumors of bush fighting had leaked through. During the morning we passed the remains of former leaf shelters, one spot where it was explained a bush pig had been cooked, and more sac-sac stumps. Without the wonderful aid of these wild kanakas, so-called, I should have been helpless. They are glad to lug the bundles simply for the privilege of watching us as curiosities. Anything, no matter how trivial is noticed and remarked on; and a discarded tin can, or wrapper, any bit of paper with a mark on it, news print or sardine advertisement they seize avidly and hang on the string about the neck or on the breech clout fore or aft, according to taste. No one has as yet suggested any fear of the mountain and its fire. We made camp at 7300 feet about 3 P.M. since it started to rain. Hicks and I have taken around a dozen birds each. I lost the Mammal Dept., a grand new species of flying fox. It took three shots to bring it down and it was a beauty - the largest I have ever seen with long, glossy-black fur. I gave it to one boy who retrieved it and told him, like a fool, that he could have the meat to kai-kai after I had taken the skin. He merely got the gist of my declaration - namely, that it

(101) them to eat. When I asked for it in camp the whole works had already been cooked. He shared it with those in his house (there were three up here, on account of lack of roofing material - they use the big broad base of sac- sac leaves). The most impressive thing about these new touched Fush Kanakas is their perfect communal spirit with their friends of their own village. They share every- things; I have never seen the slightest argument; and the chief's word is absolute law. Hicks and I had one tin of Victory corned-beef - Ratu and Reavite, two cans of sar- dines and biscuits. I spent most of the night dodging chips from the leaky roof. It must have been close to zero weather. The floor area of our house was about 25 sq. feet and in it were 10 men and 4 large fires. The natives used the pandanus leaf base as sleeping pads. In spite of their nakedness they were not cold. The old men are really protected by the thick hair on their bodies. Saw the new moon through the fog and rain. April-24- Three biscuits, a tin of meat, and two tins of sardines served to carry us all to the top; the natives cut a lot of sac-sac as well. We started about 7:30 and in an hour came up under the southernmost peak. Circling around it to the NE we could catch glimpses of the summit above us. This is a higher elevation than the crater. The bush began to thin out a little and seem- ingly the birds. Yesterday Hicks and I did quite a bit of collecting, - thickheads, honeyeaters, and a thrush. My ornithological expectation in hoping to find new variation with such high altitude was not satisfied. The only birds

(102) seen by me during our stay above 8000 feet were black- winged pigeons and a white-footed kingfisher. (The camp last night was at 7300 feet). Before arriving at a sort of look-out from which you can see the bald peaks to the NE of the crater and its smoke, we came to a clearing with a flat stone in the center. A large piece of liuwoi (wood) was planted at one end. This, the tul-tul, explain- ed to me, covered the bones of two Hanna men who had first broken the trail we were using. Starting a route down the other side they had ventured up and never returned. A few years after another party went up, and found the skeletons of the original blazers. Evidently they had perished from hunger. And as they buried the bones. It is the custom to burn corpses just at sun-up - when the first rays appear and to bury the remains. So only half a funeral was accorded these gentle- men. All this happened about 20 years ago as far as I could ascertain - in the "German time." This explained the evidences of the trail having been once broken - the pas-pas stumps and the remains of shelters. Indeed, from the "look-out" the trail looked as though it did con- tinue down the other side. Just below to the west lay a large mass with a considerable amount of visible water. No mid-life apparent. The bunch of natives waited at the "look-out" place while Hicks and Pathu and I journeyed on to the summit. It took us three hours to climb about 500 feet, over a distance of about a mile. The scrub just below the bare, crusted ground of the crater was the thickest and hardest to break through I have ever seen. You had to fight it. The final

(103) ascent was begun at 11:45 and completed at the lip of the main crater at 12:30. This was about 500 yards across and about 300 feet deep. He could see the lava seething around at the bottom, exuding steam and yel- low, sulphurous smoke. I collected some geologic samples and left a car signifying another spot on the earth's crust where homo sapiens has set foot (and rejected as unfit for prologed habitation). On the western side there are two smaller craters, one 25 yards long by 15 feet wide, the other 150 yards x 25' feet. The latter is by far the most active, belching forth clouds of sulphur smoke. We could not get very close. To the east the side of the big crater is broken down and below it are many sheer drops. The entire extent of the lava bed, hot and cold measures over 5 sq. miles. The comparative inactivity of this active volcano should make it very interesting geologically. One can reach the very center of thermal activity. After taking all the rest of my exposure, we hurried back to our friends and the safari started back down with the main camp at 5:800 as the objective. Arrived just in time for a tre- mendous kai-kai, David had done quite well with his part of the collecting, augmenting the red-breast series considerably. Additional natives from Hamua have come up during my absence. We now number about 40 in toto. April-25- I could recognize a great deal of iron and sul- phur around the crater, water which flowed in numerous springs, cold as ice, had a decided taste. In the strata just below the crater around 500 feet CaCO3, Fe O2 and greenish sulphur deposit, could be seen, the principal base being vol- canic rock. I also noted crystalline formation - copper pyrites and agate quality. Hematite, calicite, silicon and galena were also

(104) present in small quantities. This is as far as my growing knowledge would take me. Balbi ought to be a fine place for scientific investigation; a geologist with meteorological instru- ments, etc., could go up and spend a week. The botany around such a place should also provide interesting material; I collect- ed several specimens of hardy plant--reminding me for all the world of Maine forests--juniper, pine, and cedar. The native name for the mountain means "house below his master." None have ever looked at the craters. They are content to peer caution- ly from that look-out from which one can see the steam and smoke drifting up behind the peak to the north. If any of us two happened to look upon the crater he would get sick and die. Katu, is, therefore, a man among thousands on Buaka, having looked into the "pipe below Devil." His only remark on the wonderful sight was "pipe below Devil, he stunk too much." I tried to tell the old chief, through the tut-tut, that he could go to the fire now--that I had chased the Tambora away; also that we one would get sick because there was more fire up there in the water. This was of no avail. But we were honored men, so it seemed. On this day we broke camp about 10:15 A M. after finishing the birds. It is wonderful how well they keep at this elevation. Hicks and I carried some over 48 hours. The gang coming down stretched out about a half mile. I got a crested pigeon and David missed another. Heavy rain commenced about noon and drenched us right down to Hama village. Hicks, David, and I had a wonderful talk just before we arrived, al- though all the boys in Christendom couldn't get the dirt off my legs. The same legs looked as though they had come through a shrimp watch--covered with cuts, and scrapes. No matter--we have climbed one of the highest un- climbed volcanoes in the world and collected fifty birds in the bargain. I took several pictures around the village much to the amusement of the residents. As usual all the women had cleared to the bush. Now

(105) The old chief invited me into his house and gave me to eat I worked breadfruit and bananas. After the Kai-Kai - he taking a bite out of everything handed to me - he showed me some of his prize belongings - bone ornaments, and dyed wood, none of which he would part with. The final exhibit was a yellow double-page spread from the "Illustrated London News," acquired by purchase from someone who had gotten it at Numa Numa. The date was almost to a day 3 years ago - April, 1925. On one side were views of Tutankhamen's tomb and on the other a picture of Rabindranath Tagore and another of a Ouk-Ouk mask from New Ireland - a strange coincidence all round. He wrapped carefully in dried leaves, and replaced it in its bamboo case. The interior of the houses are divided into rooms by walls of plaited bamboo. The women and children are in a separate one with no entrance from the interior. All the young men and monkeys, with hats, live in a special abode until they take wives, when they are privileged to have a house to each man, and all keep in the building. Long strips of bamboo are split into longi- tudinal sections, and plaited over five and under five, revers- ing the green side of the wood every other strip. burning stick chief's house women & children chief another pattern Young Men's house

(106) I was very fortunate in obtaining one of the coveted hats after much persuading. Reanite discussed it with the chief in whispers. I assured them I had no men and would never show it to a female. He made me bring a luggage case into the house where the sacred article was carefully packed into it and covered up. As a parting gesture he presented a little suckling pig. I left plenty of presents with the village including an old cloth hat of Mr. Beck's that David had brought along. The chief set it on his wooly head immediately. During the evening, David was clowning with all the younger men, even up to pulling their hats off (no women were about). By a goodly amount of kidding he and Hicks got half their bows and arrows away. Kate was having a lesson in Pirieka tongue just as I dozed off, repeating words after the teacher. Fine during the night with the new moon. April 27- Left Hanua at 8 o'clock and reached Pukuto by evening - a long haul. Some of our friends carried for us on this jaunt. It was the first time many had come all the way over this road. We could see the France anchored betwen two islands at Pinatu and so I decided to send Kate along the beach with a message for the captain to bring the ship along. We are back three days earlier than expected. Hicks got a new pigmy parrot to-day - red breast, with blue and orange on the head, similar to the species taken high up on Kulantayra and Gudal canal. April 28- Collected all day and took a few more pigmy parrots. They represent two species apparently - the fiery-colored one has a brown iris, the plain green are orange. Both inhabit terrain of the same altitude. In the afternoon I finished the last film-pack. We expect the France to-morrow morning.

April 29- The frigate got down at 10 o'clock and all the gang whooped us down to the beach; nearly every man of the forty or fifty odd representing two villages - Hanna and Pukunto carried something. They split up the gear and what supplies were left. One had the lamp; another the corn-meal and arsenic; others a few stray tins of kai-kai. Even the boys followed - about twenty with pickaninnies. They had bundles of taro which I had requisitioned, promising calico and tobacco and knives. After a couple dozen photographs we took our leave. The tukurai of Pukunto gave me a fine little dog which is descended from a pure-bred dachsh- hound of the old German time. He will make a great com- panion & mascot on board. I gave Piavite, the tul-tul some salt, sugar, and a quantity of medicines. The others got trade goods, and some shilling, for the pile of taro, two hams full. We hoed up and proceeded up the coast, anchoring at Kumua Plantation for the night. Shot two storm petrels just at twilight. Mr. Latham, the plantation manager came out for the evening. April 30- Started at daybreak, reaching Buka Passage at 1 P.M., where I interviewed Vivian, the D.O. The new shot-guns have not arrived from Kieta as promised by the custom officer. Mr. and Mrs. Beck passed through on the Marsina. Cleared the passage by three o'clock and stood out for Teop. I had a close fever that gave me an uncomfortable night. Since we left to camp on Balbi, all the boys have had attacks and the skipper as well. He reports Gazelle Harbor and its environs a most desolate place. No good drink in water and the natives quite wild and unkempt.

(108) Drew and anchored in T-eop Anchorage at 11:30, coming in by moonlight. I forgot to mention that Terra went ashore around gazelle Hafen to look for Father Chaije's so-called pelicans. There were none, of course. But for the good Padre's Jesuit education I should have dismissed his idea of such a thing when it was men- tioned. Could he mean hornbills? May 1- Feeling the fever still I did no collecting. Hicks and David ashore at 7. The skipper and I received Mr Faulkner, who described the "lake" and its strange birds, which he wrote about in his letter to Dr. Drome while we were work- ing in the Kronprinsen behind Keeta. He very kindly offered all manner of assistance including the procuring of car- riers and even insisted on joining the party. During the forenoon and after lunch I was busy with the stack of film taken on the Balbi trip. Hicks and David re- turned with about 30 birds, including the first white-headed "fan-fan" kingfisher from Bougainville. This species, common as it is in the Solomons is not plentiful around these shores. The blue-backed type is the most populous resi- dent. Ashore to dinner in the evening at which we concluded further discussion about the lake. Our host was taken with gastric malaria just before we left and so will not accompany us in the morning. May 2- Mr. Faulkner was better, thanks to the Plasmoquin which I administered, I think. Hicks, David, and I left the beach about 10:30 after the usual delays about preparation. We had 15 carriers and the Kukurai of Anatanpin, a village near the lake. The captain and "Balbi" (the dog) walked as far as the edge of the bush. We got two hours before the first stop, which proved to be Anatanpin where we had Kai-Kai about 3 o'clock. Per- suaded the tul-tul to conduct us to the final destination by moonlight. Tewarita is the village - has no government comm

(108b) [illegible] but has been visited by Mr. Faulkner and a Missionary. I suspect the goat is not interested because they are too high to grow coconut, from which to make copra to turn into tax money. The whole train waited on the hillside until the tul-tul went into the place to make sure of our invitation. The elevation is about 2400 feet. The chief made us welcome, presenting a stick of fire for our comfort. The night was clear as a bell. We made a cup of cocoa before turning in - 11 P.M. May - 3 Reached the "lake" which proved to be a marshy pond lying in an enclosed ravine into which several small brooks drain. Those are dry usually so that the water is half stagnant, all except about 20 sq. yards in the center covered with green scum (algae). The entire expanse of the place measures about 150 yds. by 50 yds. Mountainous ridge rise on three upland sides and are densely wooded to where the marsh begins. Clear water can be seen in the center covering 25 sq. yards. And studded with tiny islets of reeds and grass. The greater portion is mud and big patches of sward grass that gives way under foot. Hicks and I climbed in and swam around. We found no spot over 3 feet deep, but deep only to an unsteady bottom overgrown with water-logged vegetation. There were seven of the birds paddling around on the lake. We got four. The other died. They were grebes - red iris, black bill with creamy-white lore, black lobate feet with actual toe-nails, shading yellowish and greenish. No trace of any nest, although we stirred up a lot of the foul ground. The wings are rudimentary and no tail in evidence at all. Found tracks of lepor in the mud around the edge of the pond. We had another shot at one that came up and hastily dived again. Took a few photographs and hung around watching until noon. All four were males. I put one body into pickle to be sent for dissection. In the morning the tul-tul told me the yarn about the birds. They belong to a Tanuban who is a great and powerful spirit - he made, the thunder, lightning and rain. The name of this, one of his sanctuaries is Namatui (in Teop dialect) and he keeps the water for the birds. All the water comes from another place that is similar to this farther north called Tomori. Whenever the god is angry with any part of his water he puts it in Tomori and thence into Namatui. So all

(109) water here has vexed the Father of Waters in some way and is performing penance; it must suffer this stigmata in ad- dition to its natural desire to seek its level in the sea. The grebes are the only birds whose nesting habits mystify the natives into fear. According to the tul-tul they hatch out young every three months. At such times - every three moons, the water in the pond is made to rise by the Tamburan about two or three feet. The female builds its nest on a little structure that rises about six inches above the water. Here the young hatch out and are fed until they become large enough to swim when their weight is enough to break the frail nest and down they go into their natural habitat. At such times the Tamburan is down under the water and causes the nests to rise up. Each nest has one pickinining. Now when the water is high there are snakes about its edge, put there by the Tamburan to protect the birds. These can kill man. The last native found dead in a low tree was from a village higher up the mountain from Tawarita. His name was Kaa. The pond is used as a theater for holy ordinance such as cutting cicatrices on the children, which is quite common in this district. The breast, shoulder, and belly seem to be the parts of the anatomy favored. Some showed the results on their faces - circles with surroundin' straight lines resembling the sun and its circumbent rays. Those on the body were cut across latitudinally in no pattern or number. At such a time all people, including the meris gather near the water. Pig and taro are kai-kaid; the monkeys are cut, usually with bamboo, now sometimes with snake glass, and the sing-sing (piu) follows accompanied by the Buka pipes and the big wooden horns (mambao); these were called 'kalulu in the Kieta district. The children after their incising are dowzed in the water. None of the natives ever catch, kill kai-kai, or in any way disturb the birds. Needless to say they were shocked at our performance but explai- ed by their faultless logic "fashion belony white man." The ceremony of endowing the young boys with the hats is done in a secret place in the deep bush far from the eye of any women. Formerly if any meri saw a man without a hat or a hat without a man, both the meri and the owner of the initials on the hat were killed without ado. This cus

(110) has gone defunct with their habits of warfare. May 4 I wonder if the reason for the grebes survival is the nature's strict taboo on them. There are certainly not a great number; the pond could not house very many. Knowing nothing about grebes I cannot check the fairy tale with what actually happens. Undoubtedly there are a great many more than we saw yesterday morning (7). They are such expert divers and can conceal themselves in the heavy grass. The tul-tul said there were no such birds on the other pond or swamp (Tomori) which is supposed to supply this one with its water. He visited the place again and secured one. When we arrived there were two on the water. One dived, watched the water for two hours and saw two more but none offered a shot - just out and down again. Spread out after lunch to hunt and a heavy rain came on. I saw a ground thrush, but that was all. It is the first I have ever encountered in the bush and I can believe they are scarce and hard to get. Just a glimpse and a brief stirring of the grass or weeds in its wake, hardly giving time to lift the gun. However I shot a fiery pygmy parrot and several other birds. Hicks and David had kept under cover from the rain in a nearby village. Returning by way of the pond I shot at another grebe and missed. A collapsible boat would be an excellent adjunct to the field equipment for such a trip. A note came up from Mr. Faulkner with a batch of biscuits by his wife. We shall leave in the morning to get down for the week-end. May 5. Hicks and I paid a final call to the pond and he got one more of the desiderata. He has been using a .12g. gun and has killed most of the grebes taken. After a few photographs, we broke camp. On the way down I saw a white throated pigeon. This is only the second I have seen, the other having been shot by G.R., right in front of the camp at Kupeni. Reached the beach about 2:30 and went right aboard. Mr. Faulkner entertained at a fine dinner of fresh lamb at which we met the gentlemen from Teopaeana Plantation. He was much gratified to learn that the birds were worth going after. It seems he had been joshed consid-

(III) trash by friends and neighbors; Jackner and his bloody birds had been a standing joke. As a matter of fact he is the first layman out here whose information has led to any thing. Most of the ready informers know nothing and have not seen half the birds represented on their own property. One man- Pincock of Fauro I., told us in Gizo he had 'saved a red-eye' for us until it had died - a starling, one of the most common and being communal in its habits can be shot in bagfuls. Mission- aries, especially, are most boring since they consider their intellectual plane somewhat elevated above that of the ordinary resident; thus, the more simple-minded ones discourse on ornithology and the bush, etc., whenever they get aboard. Such a find as the grebe shows the possibilities of Bongainville. There are undoubtedly other lakes. We heard of another at Soraken, and the southern district - Buin, Siwai, etc., should be visited. May-6. Sabbath Day observed. May-7. Ho up at 8 and stood out under sail as soon as we cleared the reefs for Numa Numa. He arrived at 4:30. Took dinner with Mr Thompson and his wife & kids who have just returned from South. He was full of congratulations both on the ascent of the volcano and on the new bird from Trip. May-8- Made Arawa Bay by 4 P.M. where Jock Esson came out for a meal on the little pig presented by the Hannea kukurai. The best pork I have yet tasted in the islands. Mr Esson had found the field book of the Ruperi trip which had been misplaced during the packing for departure. Heavy rain and strong squalls from the SE during the night; the skipper thinks, the freak of the monsoon. May-9 Arrived in Kieta harbor and anchored off the govern- ment wharf at 9:30. Hicks and David landed for collecting. I told them to keep their eyes cocked for the small colored panakeet. During the day the captain and I purchased some stoms, and I settled all bills with Messrs. Every & Walsh. A wire came on May 7th for me from AMN H. Dr. Murphy

(12) has cancelled his trip and my father is coming out, arriving in Sydney on June 25. The cable enquired how long Richards intended staying - incidently the Museum has not received the wine he sent from Rabaul informing of his departure. May-10 The gun which I instructed the Custom officer here to hold for our arrival have been sent to Buka Passage - even after my letter came. They passed it on the AV Sapasan while we were at Tiop. The official, a Melbourne mental lightweight thought to take matters into his own hands. Well - they will be sent to Faisi by courtesy of Captain Palmer of the Rageia, the same chap who let us have a magneto. Cleared the ship by noon; our bill for stores consumed in the T.N.G. since the France arrived is simply shocking. We gyped them on as many items as possible - in fact - all. Hicks and David got a few more of the red-billed parakeets this morning, which augment's a somewhat reduced series. Hooped up at 1:30 and proceeded down the coast under power. He got permission to drop a passenger in a dinghy with his boys at Triomapa - a certain Pasley. Then stood out under sail for Oeva Atoll & Island. Those islands are in the T.N.G. and we are not legally allowed to visit them; however, we shall visit them. Quite uninhabited. May 11- Anchored at 7:30 off Oeva I., and the three of us landed. I collected a few Nikota pigeons, flycatchers (the ash-headed species not present). The terrain is all rough coral rock, full of convolutions. Hicks took a fine large cuckoo. We all returned after lunch when we hoed up and steered for Ovan Island, another mid-land protrudence. Anchored about 5:30 on the S-side under the highest land. During the night a half-caste Trader, evidently smelling unwelcome competition in another trading craft, came over from Fano I., to enquire who it was. This was - a McDonald, supposedly, has a shady reputation around Gizo. So we cannot land and collect To-morrow as planned. He might find out and make a noise. Ovan is uninhabited and larger than Oeva (one 4-5 miles long, oval shape - the other

(1/3) about 2 miles, at its greatest length, irregular in shape; the atoll is not more than a mile and a half in circumference and not worth visiting I considered. No sacred life; the land is heavily wooded) May - 12 Awoke up at 6. A. 19 and steered for Shortland Harbor-Faisei Harbor, where we arrived and were granted permission at 10:30 A. 17. The new dog-

(114) Yalta Point. Here I sighted some migrating birds and lowered the small boat. There were terns and shearwaters, as previously encountered. This saw two of the common gannets and two black storm petrels (evidently Wilson's). Due mostly to the heavy swell running my shooting was very bad; but I got one shearwater that I cannot identify - white breast, graying at the throat, black feet with pink dots and pinkish legs. Anyway I tried hard enough and gained some much needed ex- perience in this branch of collecting. As soon as I had landed we steamed for Rendova Harbor and just got inside at dark through a blinding squall of rain, and dropped the pick in 17 fathoms. May 19 - Shifted at dawn to a point between Tanburls I., and the mainland. Hicks, David, and I landed immediately. Ren- dova is 21 miles at its greatest length but the most of this is taken up by the peninsular running south; the body of the Island is 8 miles in diameter and several peaks exceed 3000 feet elevation. Wweli peak is a former volcanic crater. We found no trails and simply followed drainage; the high land is certainly too far from the ship in its present situation to reach in a day. The birds are recognized as the familiar Solomon Island types - the tailed flycatcher, common flycatcher, black and brown fantails, the

to catch the steamer, perhaps, at Tetepari, sending instructions for our cargo to be sent to Tulagi, but the Matasan do not call this trip. It is best that we go to gigs since we have so much cargo to look after and business to check with the resident B.P.'s. When I returned Hicks and George presented them selves for an interview, stating that they wanted to leave. However Hicks says he would like to return in six months time. May 21—Hicks, David, and I left for camp for the rest of the week. Two of the boys came to help carry the Kai-Kai and gear. We followed a river bed, climbing over slippery stones, until it became too steep, and then cut our way up a ridge. We could only reach 1900 feet since there is no water higher. Pitched camp and while Hicks and David went after water and straightened things out I rambled about and collected a few birds. May 22. We climbed to over 3000 on the same ridge, occasionally fol- lowing pig trails. David got a yellow bit dove—female, and I, ano- ther of the same. Thickbeads, are more plentiful up here than lower down; the rest of the avifauna is the same. Evidently we are too high for the dark kingfisher which we have heard. David report see- ing a small flock of the long-tailed, black-winged pyjors (the type so common on Bongaville). The great drawback about camping is the comparative slowness with which the stuff comes in. We have crought one of the Magine lights with us, so we can skin at night. May 23. Heavy rain in showers intermittent from noon on. This is the greatest drawback—the damn weather. He put up a few birds anyway. I missed a fine eagle-hawk, a propriety I seen to have; he was on the wing but close up. I have been "greasing" Hicks plenty during the evenings about returning after his six months leave, May 24. The rain yesterday gives us water sufficient for the stay. until it came we carried about ½ mile from the stream. We put in some good work to-day but I missed another eagle hawk on the wing. We should be getting more rare stuff since we are well up around 3000 feet every day; evidently we have not struck a good feeding area, for the fruit-eaters at any rate; for the insectivorous birds it makes little differ-

(116) ence. But I am convinced after Bougainville with its segregation of fauna - yes, all fauna (Mume Mune was the only place for bush rats of the big variety) that the varieties which depend upon the flora for food, which necessarily includes most of the birds, animals, and reptiles are distributed in no uniform manner. Hence the advisability of painting an island, especially - a large one, in as many places as possible. I think we shall have another go at Rendova since we shall have to come back to this side of New Georgia to collect Tetipari I. David collected down to the ship and back returning with a few needed stores and my camera. Frazer came up to take down the birds taken to date. May 25 - Rain incessant all day. He ventured out during a morning lull but only received manifold drenchings. Only a few birds collected. I captured a tiny bush pig - found lying under a log! We have heard pigs about almost every night. Rendova has not yielded any snakes; the common brown lizard is present with the striped variety. May 26 - Set out hunting, during the morning, with some success. I saw several pig my pants but failed to get a single specimen. Took several young black- heads in the brown plumage and a starling which is unique, having a white iris and a pronounced feather process about the nostrils suggestive of the crow. We shall certainly call later to get more of these and the other species missed - long-tailed pigeon, pigmy parrot. Hicks shot a red-billed thrusher. The other day Frazer and Charlie arrived about 1 P.M. to help us carry the gear down; we left after lunch and were all on board by 5 P.M. Awoke up immediately and stood out for Gizis using the sails. Rendova I, used to be very populous, and it was held the reputation of being fierce head-hunters - great enemies of the Rubiana cannibals on the mainland. Their attacks helped to exterminate them with continent disease and falling off of food. Not a single native remains in the bush or on the salt- water! There are cursory survivors around the New Georgia group. I found no evidence of any habitation during our penetration, except the wild pigs- one domestic. In the 50's and 70's several occasions witnessed the landing on Rendova of whale-boat, of convicts, escaped from New Caledonia penal settlements. They were killed and devoured with all possible dispatch and crudity. May 27 - After laying to under the foresail outside the passage we set all sail at daybreak and sailed in, anchoring at 7:05 A.M. Gizis Harbor pre- sents a rather unusual appearance - there are two steamers, three, in fact, in the harbor with the numerous small craft awaiting the Matarawi's arri- val. She came in at noon and Gizis entertained more shipping than ever before or probably ever again. The SS. Calulu which carried G. Richards from Rataul to Manila is taking cargo as salvage out of the burnt wreck of the SS Yara and the SS Maiambah is the salvage ship from Queensland. He counted eight master mariners in the port, including those flown away, or shore. Nothing startling arrived on the Matarawi from AMNH. But all store, ordered from Sydney arrived. In addition there is a lot of stuff which was landed months ago. This includes 13 cases of California

"assorted fruits, which I shall try to sell. Then, there is a fine trayle of business to straight out - B.P's with characteristc high- handeness have sold most of the Sydney-ordered stuff that has been awaiting our arrival here. So we shall have to make adjustments. His Excellency, the Manager is too busy with the shipping just now. now. Hicks and I packed the birds for shipment in the afternoon. May 28. Hicks and David out collecting. The skipper and I went into B.P's but could accomplish nothing much. The steamer left last night and will return on the 35th from Faizi bringing our much-relieved shot-guns from Kieta and any returned mail. Captain Middleton visited us - he is the present D.O. here, having replaced Mr. Barley, who lately broke his arm. The Captain (Army) entered the force months ago at Vanikoro where he used to be stationed. David & Hicks brought back a number of white-gos, which are geo desiderata. May 29 - George and Hicks are preparing to leave. I have made all arrangements with B.P's to board them and assume their respective boats while in Australia and to tranship them to Nukualofa and Apia respectively. David ashore to-day collecting. He brought in a brand new bird which I fail to recognize. It resembles the small cuckoo in build but is even smaller - viz, brown, short straight- edged tail, and long sharp wings, breast faintly striped brown on a whitish background. In the evening the crew sent a round robin aft stating that Fraser, sailor, had stolen gasoline at Rabaul. It was signed by all hands. We shall investigate in the morning. May 30. The Captain and I had all hands on the quarter to question them about Fraser and to offer him a chance for defence. He said he took a case of gas but told Mr. Richards, who he ex- pected would inform me. We decided to ship this fellow home along with the other two. He is one of the most useless men on the ship from the point of view of the Museum. All details were settled - wages in full paid (Fraser is in debt to the ship), credentials and letters of recommendation given to the deserving, (i. this case - just George; to Hicks I gave a letter of "appreciation" to his mother and another to B.P's Apia, Samoa, instructing them about returning Hicks in six months' time, should he so desire. We and the rest of the crew saw them off on the steamer. Thank the stars - the geos came through. Last night we were aboard the SS Calcutta and learned that G.R., took an "Empress" boat across the Pacific from Manila so that by this time he is home. Also had much of a yarn with the Chief Engineer who had much to impart about small Diesel engines.

(18) I got a long communication if to Dr. Murphy and another to Dr. Sanford. Most of my personal correspondence suffered. Shipped birds insured both by freight and mail; also sent in notes and color sketches. May 31- Entered into adjustments with D'P's - Mr. Booth very affable he cause I consented to take the California fruit. It is in 22lb. tons - too large for his trade. Secured credit for all our cargo that has been well- fully sold and finished paying a bill of a couple of pounds. This include a vast amount of clothes (shirts & trousers made to order for the ship chest) and Keds, over half which I returned. A bill of something like 150 pounds remains in Mr. Beck's account. I have neither funds, instruction, or inten- tion of paying this, so I told the gentleman to send it to Beck in Sydney. Secured a fairly good motion picture camera from Booth who had pur- chased it for a client & then refused delivery because of incessant debts. The lens is very keen & the rest should do some decent work. Very cheap with 500 ft. of film. The magazine holds 100 feet. I am paying for it until I feel it is worth the price to AMNH. I shall, however, charge any film I get in the future. June 1- We took a Malaita boy named Paul as a general hand - casual labor a. for a Tulagi anyway. From now on David, Charlie and I - possibly Teresa will do the shooting with Phelps, who is fast learning as additional bird-striker. Finally have up at 2 P.M., having left the final mail for the SS Maralau which leaves the end of the week. This makes three mails in all - The Aletaram, the Calumba yesterday and the Maranbah to follow. Set all sail and butted into some heavy Easterly weather - making for Ferguson Passage to enter the Rutijana Lagoon. No sea birds sighted - weather too rough for collecting any how. and 2- lay to under fore & staysails in storm of swift squalls & heavy seas. Could not get the engine started to put us inside Ferguson Passage and so let her slip through Blackett Strait using power when the bridge fell. A choice for the night off the entrance to Hathom Sound. June 3. Afore up at 6 AM and used sails until noon when we started the engine and kept her off the land until 1 o'clock. Tacked all afternoon and sight to best advantage. Saw terns and a few shearwaters, but they were moving fast and it was too late in the day to lower the boat. June 4. Started engine at 6:30 A.M., and steered for Lever Harbor where we anchored at 9 o'clock in 15 fathoms. David, Charlie, and I landed for the day. A Methodist villager is situated on the S. shore and we found some figs leading in to gardens where they inevitably petered out. However there are a few streams which can be followed with ease. Charlie brought in two large gray birds - a new species to me. David said he same occured on Guadalcanal. He went out to the village bringing back incident- ally a dozen eggs and the report of having seen a small blue salt-settin knight fisher with white band around the throat also represented on Guadalca- al. This is also unknown to my experience. There is variation in the tailed

(19) flycatcher, contrasting slightly to the Rendova type, having white feathering almost completely around the eye where the Rendova species shows the white patch up to the eye. The long-tail is quite in evidence and I noticed more sox here and on Rendova in the young brown mottled plumage. He returned late and found a few others trading with the Captain. Bananas, papaw, eggs, & two fowls were secured and a quantity of Kan-kan (sweet potatoes) Biscuits, cooking time, bread, tinned goods, & shilling, were asked in exchange. Only a few spoke pid- gin and so the words they are a rapid crowd as typical of the Mill- oldest Mission influence. June 5 - All landed early and had a good day. The island of New Georgia is the largest of the New Georgia group, of which it is the focal land mass. It is approximately 70 miles long and measures 26 miles across in the northern end, backing the Rubiyana lagoon and about 15 miles for its greatest length to the southward, backing the Marovo lagoon. The is- land runs NW & SE. The highest land is 2700 feet at the southern portion. There are several peaks in the Karu Mahenta range that top 2000 symining with Mt. Vena Ravi at the center of the widest part. All are con- tinuously located, which will make the maximum elevation difficult to reach from the shore in one day, especially as there are no longer any natives living in the bush and consequently all trails are difficult. The distribution of the avifanna impresses me to be similar to Vella Lavella where there is little high land over 2000 and uniform vegetation and drainage. This side of New Georgia is filled with rivers, all of which de- posits sediment in the lagoon bottom, making navigation somewhat precarious. But I do not consider the elevation too high enough to recreate a camp. A fairly good indication on any island having max- imun elevation below 3500 (or more) is the locality of the thickhead. its environs are indicative of the possibility of altitude variation. On smaller islands like Gaua, the Thickhead was found above 1500 or better 2000 feet; similarly Nulumbura although they were lower than 1500 because of the greater height of the island. Where you find the Thickhead preferring altitude, the yellow-bil dove and possibly the bush kingfishers in greater number will also be encountered. Finding the Thickhead directly in from the beach indicates that the doves also range lower. This was the case on Vella Lavella. Dr. Arow shot a yellow-bil dove at a surprisingly low elevation. In fact, we took nothing unusual by climbing on Vella; similarly New Geor- gia main island. The idea is to penetrate at as many possible points. Gatumai and Vaugum for rare stuff will be far more yielding around the clouds. The latter is the most important of the group - from the standpoint of varieties of birds. New Georgia, itself will give numbers for series. I do not anticipate much intra-variation within the group. Including the small outlying islands, the nearer islands fronting the lagoons, islets within the lagoons, Wana Wana and Arundel, etc.,

(120) the total comprises about a hundred odd. Most of these are neg- ligible for our purpose. The wood-bill shrike is in prominent evidence here and is found to best advantage around native gardens. They utter a raucous parrot-like whistle and are quite inclined to fight when brought down wounded. The large gray bird seems to prefer river-bottom land; its call is a rather pretty series of whistles, quite unlike its smaller relative. I saw a red-billed kingfisher but did not get a shot. The blackhead, white-eye, and both brown & black fantails are found anywhere together. I note also the presence of the gray-headed flycatcher similar to the Fiji species and those taken on small outlying islands. The bald & gray headed types, tra- vel together in little flocks; often blackheads & fantails are with them- all hunting insects. I have heard the pigmy parrot and have urged all hands to go after it. Of course the two varieties of Solomon Island pigeons are pre- sent - the gray and the red-knobbed. It is only the latter type that inhabit the mainland of any group island any distance. The gray is found most plentiful along the shore and abundant on small islands where they go to nest, I feel sure, since there are not very many laden fruit trees on a denuded coral mound - most of the timber very scrubby. They fly to the mainland to feed for the most part; one sees groups on the way in both directions, particularly at early morning and at twilight. When all were on board we hoed up and steamed out of the entrance setting all sail to let the land breeze carry us down the coast dur- ing the night. June 6- Entered lagoon again at 6:30 A.M. by Solows Entrance, anchoring south of Kern Island off Helingeri Inlet. The vessel scraped the bottom on a dark patch coming in - very light, no apparent damage. David, Charlie, and I landed over a fairly large river. Here we took three of the little blue kingfishers - their favorite habitat: a tidal river with mangroves on it banks. The waterway took us in for about a mile 1/2 but gave access to no elevation. June 7- Collected all day with heavy rain in the afternoon. We go by our trails and it is not speedy. I imagine New Georgia resembles part of the islands of the Hebrides, in this regard - formerly inhabited with plenty of track, but now quite overgrown. Five are at the skimming table every night now. H.H., David, Charlie, Teora, and Philip. The little engineer is learning rapid- ly and is going to make a good assistant in a few months. Charlie & Teora are clumsy and careless as clowns. They have been putting up some punk specimens. Manuel helps - but is not enthusiastic. June 8- Teora joined the field party for the afternoon To-day. David took two more "little blues" To-day. We and Charlie went up the river in canoes - a very good dodge. I heard a crested pigeon To-day and tried to stalk it but evidently the coward heard me. The fact that this comparative

(12/1) by rare bird and one usually encountered with altitude is present so low is another indication that distribution is more uniform on this island. The majority of the large fruit trees are precisely in these fertile river flats; and there is not sufficient altitude to attract birds permanently to elevated residence. Florida I., is similar; Mr. Beck took a crested pigeon there around 1000 feet. June 9- David & Charlie went up the river in canoes while I again went inland, crossing a big mangrove swamp. Here I shot a large brown heron of the usual bird type but he got away from me, wounded, into the bush. David brought back a couple more little blues. She is taking Hicks' place to perfection. Charlie & Teora are good simply as utility men. I hope to locate some good Solomon boys - probably Malaita in Tulagi, who will trim in much more bacon. The new lad Paul shows an inclination to shoot. He brought in a fine mess of pigeons for kai-kai in about two hours, hunting along the shore. I returned early to-day; David and Charlie at the usual time. At 7 P.M. we hoove up and proceeded out softly and set all sail, moving down the coast during the night with the land breeze. June 10- Started engine at 11 A.M. and made Sinagutu Entrance in side I which we anchored in 12 fathoms off the mouth of a large river. The rest of the Sabbath observed. June 11- Teora again joined us. Four hunters will be kept out from now on. We puchated up the river which is one way of getting inland on this deserted place. We have been taking the white-lared knifisher quite regularly inside the lagoon and around these rivers. Another Mission Station is here, located on a small island. These places are rarely visited by any of the head Moohoogals but are maintained by native teachers. The Mission schooner calls for the copra. This bunch do not even approach the ship. The Marovo has a reputation for being a poor locality for obtaining native foods. There is only one white resident on this side from Hathorn Sound where Sewin Bros. are located or Arundel I., to Chesprane Entrance - Mr. Newall at Ramade Bay, Haweri Island. J.R. & I visited his plantation when we came up to join the France at Mulambauger in the schooner Awa. Rain most of the afternoon. We do all our skinning on deck which is much more efficient and comfortable than the sweet-box (the hold) where six of us used to jam ourselves around three reeking benzine lamps. With air to breathe we can do more birds & turn out better skins in the long run, sleep better, avoid prickly heat, etc., Since Teora and Charlie are so flat-footed with their fingers in making up the birds (I am no rose yet), I have decided to let them skin while David and I make them up. Philip will go on because he has the adaptive instinct. Charlie & Teora, however, can finish big birds quite well. So instead of putting the operator's (sic) name on the skin he (per se) turns out I shall mark all our products with simply my initials H.H., and take all consequences.

(122) June 12 - Four of us ashore by 7 A.M. I got three red-billed kingfishers. I have learned how to stalk them. Their shrill knife-like call has a slight deflection in tone toward the finish so that it gives the impression of travelling. I once thought they only called when on the wing. I tried going toward the sound of the call, which in this case was repeated; there the rascal was close-up cocking his eye at me and screwing his neck up and down in most quizzical fashion. In some cases they are relatively tame. I have approached very close - within 10 feet, following the direction of a call and have not seen the kingfisher until he shifted a few feet to another tree, apparently eying me all the time. The running mountain stream is the place to look for them - in the steep ravines that lead into it. They nest in the walls of these; mostly volcanic soil mixed with red clay. I presume all the river kingfishers are ground-dwellers. The land 'ee-ee' in trees or tall, dead stumps; and the shore 'kw-kw' in trees. Of the two types of the 'ee-ee', the small one lives around rivers and is settled further inland; the big one seems to prefer proximity to salt water. The latter is usually the one taken on small outlying islands. June 13 - All ashore by 7 A.M. I took another kingfisher and several pigmy parrots. The latter have been coming in regularly now of late. They are the typical species - iris orange & feet a dark blue. I have seen them here in bunches of six or ten clinging to the fork of large trees - feeding. I shot another red-billed kingfisher - simply by stalking its call. Unlike most rare birds they are quite tame and can be approached, if one does not move too conspicuously. The little fellow will cock his eye and perhaps shift to a different perch to get a good look. New Georgia along the rivers of the Marovo has yielded a fine series of little kingfishers. It is good collecting country but for the rough going inland with no trails and puzzling topography. David is doing every bit as well as Hicks now; Charlie and Tessa are slow and not particularly keen hunters, but they can be depended upon for the numbers in common species. June 17 - Awoke up at 7 A.M. and proceeded down the coast via Linyutu Entrance to Mayo where we entered and anchored off the mainland by 9. Here we find another good-sized river: the Hire. David, Charlie, and Tessa investigated this while I started out at noon in the small boat landing a short way up the stream. Took several fly-catchers - both gray-headed and bald and some white-eyes. The highest part of New Georgia mainland is inland from our present location; yet the thickheads are found at every elevation. The hood-bill bluebird and the large graybird favor these river bottoms, widely good feeding area.

(123) I have been reflecting the side-lines of late- due principally to the death of native contributors. None have been interested in catching snakes or frogs, or for tobacco; the few that have come aboard have prof- fessed nothing but eggs, paw-paw, & sweet potatoes, or baskets, Mission-taught design - clearing money in exchange. We have had little time for them. Nothing of photographic inter- est except the lagoon itself. June 15"- Three of us took the big boat and pulled south along the shore to look for a better place to penetrate to the high land. Sent the boys ashore at the Ruhana River while I signalled the ship to come up. Navigation in these waters is extremely precarious. Charlie came off and together we went up the river. I started climbing about a mile inland (missed an eagle hawk at the river) and reached about 1000 feet by 2 P.M. The ground steep, rocky and mean. Took several Thickheads and flycatchers - two pygmy parrots. Every day lately I have heard the yellow-bib dove calling within apparent range. Yet none actually seen. The long-tail dove is in the flat terrain around the rivers; the boys have taken two. June 16" Fine weather. We heard the crested pigeon while going up the river. David and I landed on either side and had several tries. They were all very high up. Later on David got one, which makes the first. Today I intended to reach 1500 feet at least but had the luck to lose the whole cocking piece of my gun and had nothing to do but return to the ship to replace it from the other new gun. It must have caught on a vine and been snapped off; I only became aware of its absence when I started to shoot. Nothing to do but return. At 1 P.M. I took the small boat and landed on the foreshore when I did some good collecting in a short time. Thickheads, flycatchers, and fantails. Now we have just enough guns for four collectors and one of them Hicks' old thunderbox with no safety catch.

(Sunday) June 17- Hove up at 8:45 and proceeded south through the lagoon in very foul water to Ngari Ngari where we anchored off Capt. A.A. Austin's plantation. Be informed that we were very fortunate not to touch on the way; the light was excellent, however, and we took it very slow and circuitous. The old man got a pilot for us to take us off the mouth of the Kolo River where there are some tracks in to gardens, thank Heaven. Spent the evening ashore with the residents. June 18- Hove up at 6 A.M. and with "Simmy" the pilot, a 7-Day adherent, we reached our destination in an hour. All landed and proceeded up the river. Took two kingfishers en route and again landed to try to locate crested pigeons. Teore and Charlie landed on one side and David and I on the other after the boat took us about a mile and a half. It is the longest inland water way in the lagoon. Canoes can go up more than two miles. I took a number of common species and found a trail after lunch just as it started to rain. Saw two ground doves of the usual type. These river bottoms harbor all kinds of birds- the fertile soil supports the greatest variety of fruit or seed tree, insects around with the damp warmth and the river adds the natural habitat of the two little kingfishers - the "little blue" and the white-sared. David & the others set some natives who took them to their garden trail. I added another red-billed kingfisher. New Georgia has augmented the series of small kingfishers considerably - with its many rivers. The pigeon parrots have come in rather well of late, too. As far as I can remember, there is no species seen here that has not been taken - except the brown bush heron and the eagle hawk. We have penetrated in so many places and have found different birds in different areas; the common types prevail right through. But only at two positions did we encounter hawks; the crested pigeon heard only once before we got to Mager Ent., and this place (Kolo River) seems to be their most-favored spot. I have been hoping we should take yellow-bib doves in our short ascent, if not more than 1000 feet; I feel that is the only species that would be added by camping, which would entail more than the ordinary ex- penditure of time & effort. The yellow-bib will come from Gatuskai and Vangunu. June 19- To-day we went up to the river in canoes and took the trail up to the garden. It took us five or six miles inland to a nicely little settle ment - about the last in the bush around here. About 1200 feet - excel- lent view of the island to the north - Rendova & Tetepari plainly in view. David took two crested pigeons and I got another. And another red- billed kingfisher. All the hunters did well to-day. We have nearly 500 birds from New Georgia; I shall leave it at that. It is perplexing to know these and how to work the myriad of islands, that lie before us and still meet the steamer. June 20- Hove up at 7 A.M. and steamed through Ngari Passage to call on H.M. Markham. Heavy rain in the morning prevented any collecting on the inter- vally islands. Markham took the skipper and me ashore and showed us the most beautifully kept plantation I have yet seen. He has planted all kinds,

(125) fruits & vegetables - mangostines, chinese raisins, avocado plants, oranges, tomatoes, melons - a town of plenty. Japanese clover is planted through the coconut as for a one can see from the comfortable house where has a porch like a promenade deck. From our boat we found out that the Mataram is a week late, which is a great help - we can finish this side of the group and my father will probably be able to catch the steamer. We listened to Markham's yarns about the islands until a late hour. June 21- Hove up at 10 A.M. and proceeded through Njoi passage across the lagoon, anchoring inside Charopava Ent. Swin piloted us all the way over very foul ground. David, Teresa, and I landed on Charopava & Uepi Is., and collected until dark. These islands are all built upon the barrier reef and support numerous trees, but very little undergrowth. The ground is rough, sharp coral rock. We found nothing but flycatchers (and the gray pigeon); I found the expans of reef on the seaward side interesting - herons, curlew- plover, ku-ku kingfishers - all extremely wary of approach. I got one each of the first two. Undoubtedly the islands all the way down on the outside of the Marovo are similar and not worth collecting except for shore birds. The numerous islets inside the lagoon are not accessible for the trawace on account of the foul water all about. Here is the function for an outboard motor - attached to the dinghy we could go anywhere and often save shifting the ship. Native canoes are not available. I tried to charter Capt. Austen's launch for a look at a visit to some of the islands between Njari, Ngari and Vangunu but was un- successful. Charlie has been laid up with swollen glands since yesterday. June 22- Hove up at 6 and steered for the entrance. The vessel trumped the edge of a reef extending from Ngoceti I., but lost no way, and did not damage herself. A quick swing to port, howerer, prompted by my cry from the masthead narrowly averted a serious smash-up. The tide also favored us when she swung away from it. Set all sail to make a beak for gatukai. June 23- At dawn Mbulu I. to the southward. Set our course to pass close. At 10:35 Kiche I. close up. David, Teresa, and I landed while the vessel here to. Kiche is quite small - not ¼ mile wide and nearly circular. It proved well worth the visit. We got both bold & gray-headed flycatchers, land kingfishers & yellow- head cuckoos. I ruined a ground dove at close range, and shot

(26) (bitter.) a small brown heron with peculiar rice, reddish plumage. David got two eazb hawks - this is just the kind of spot for their nests. All three of us saw ground doves - the common species and hornbills! A remarkable occurrence since they were certainly not present on the mainland of New Georgia. The ship picked us up at 2 P.M. Too late to visit Mbulu where we could not anchor - all those outlying islands are steep-to. So set our course for Rawo Lavate on the SE side of Gatukai, given as protected but very deep anchorage: indeed 22 fathoms, Methodist village - they did not come out until after dark. June 24- At dawn the wind came fresh out of the NE with rain squalls and our stern was a quest's toss from the ugly rocky shore. So we started the engine and manned the windlass. Thank Heaven the engine did not fail us - we got out of it all right - passed between Malemala and the main land and sought another position. I thought we should have to go all the way around through the Wickham Pas., but noted a small opening marked "font passage" on the chart on the western side. Netwer came out in canoes when we got close and informed that we could get over the bar. The Captain took the long-boat and took soundings, finding nothing less than 2 fathoms. So, with a native pilot we returned through and quite safely to a fine, calm anchorage on the inside off Phujuku, 7-Day Village in excellent position for collecting. June 25. The "Pacific Is. Pilot" cites Kicha, Malemala, and Mbulu as sacred to the natives - being used as burial places - skull caves, etc., similar to the one we visited on Villa LaVelle. He found no evidence whatsoever - evidently time-worn (the report dates from 1895). All ashore this morning by 6:30. Charlie is still nursing painful glands; I started him on a course of iodide. We found no trails as reported and small variety of species. However, we saw hornbills in flight from the main island off to the outlying ones. Fly-catchers, sunas, and starlings - but no evidence of blackheads or fantails. I heard the brown but not the black. The village is very clean and well-populated although devoid of any interest because of the destroying effects of Christianity. The big canoe house still stands, but all the remarkable steel and mother-of-pearl inlay decorations, feathers, inlaid & figuring props have been removed from the craft by order of this hisane sect.

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(127) June 26th. Yesterday, I fell down a hole amongst the roots of a great tangle-like tree but did no particular damage except to tear all the skin off one knuckle to the bone. I returned to the vessel early. I had very few birds: blackheads are conspicuous by their absence. Today I did not go ashore, having a temperature and feeling very flabby. Charlie is still unable to go ashore. David and Teresa landed at 7 A.M. David brought in a crested pigeon, taken on the mountain slope at about 200 feet elevation. June 27th—David, Paul, and I landed with stores and note- shift equipment at 8 A.M. and started up the mountain about 9. About ten of the Penjuku men accompanied us, carrying the stuff. By noon we reached 1500 feet and decided to continue. It proved foolish since the tops got increasingly rougher and from 2000 feet on up we found no available camping site and were forced to set up right on the top at an altitude of slightly over 2800 feet. The island is nearly circular and about 7 miles in diameter. No running water exists above 1500 feet, so we shall have to de- pend on rain catchment. No birds taken today. The natives start- ed back down almost immediately (about 3 P.M.). We set up a sturdy camp since the top is cleared of all but the low bush and is quite exposed. June 28th The three of us out by 8 o'clock. There are two trails leading down the steep slope: I took one, and the boy, the other. I got several thickheads and one yellow-bib dove. Saw one white-throated pigeon and heard the red-billed bust/kingfisher. It is quite a new departure—climbing back up to camp toward downing. Paul had a yellow-bib dove and David also with a number of thickheads and other small birds. But Paul pulled the best catch with a pair of white-throated pigeons which he said he stalked when he heard them calling; he found them perched in low trees. June 29th The weather is favoring us. Finished breakfast by 7:30 and down the mountain. I took the same route I followed yesterday which runs along a saddle-lock ridge that gives ac- cess to many draws which offer good hunting ground, though

(128) rather steep. To-day I contributed two yellow-bits and two little kingfishers with six thickbeads. The steep peak of the very top of the cone is covered with low fruit trees. With the roots of other trees the ground is seldom touched by the trail. One climbs over them, sinking to the knees in heavy moss. It is evidently choice feeding ground for doves and pigeons. We have taken practically all specimens here. (I have missed several by not using cau- tion when climbing up or down into a hidden brake. The first thing I know is a rustle amongst the leaves, a whirr of wings, and another dove is lost to the collection. Both David and Paul got lost and had to spend the night in the bush. Luckily they located each other and managed to find a ne- Two garden where they made a nude lean-to and had a feed of bananas. I tried my best to find them after dark ventur- ing down the hill with a Colemanlite and firing successive shots. Unfortunately they had to throw away most of their birds. David said he had nothing but common stuff but he is a liar undoubtedly. Well--if we do not have the weather agin' us in camp it has to be something else. I was up until 2 A.M. skinning my birds. June 30th. I got out of camp by 8 A.M. and took a yellow-bit dove in the short trees along the steep slope below the peak. I met David and Paul with woe-begone faces and bananas about ten o' clock. The latter had another white-throated pigeon which makes my very glad I brought him along. We hunted until 1 P.M. and then returned to pack up and make a start at getting down. Left the tip about 3 o'clock and reached the beach at 7 with the aid of the new moon and a flashlight. With all the gear piled on our backs, it was a gnawling descent what with various stumbles, trips, and falls. The captain had just finish- ed painting the cabin and we shall leave up in the morn- ing. July 1st. Hove-up and proceeded out the entrance under pilot- age. We took it very slow on account of the swell. The vessel took the bottom twice but not hard enough to do any damage. We made a good run till midnight when the Russell group was abreast.

(29) July 2- Light airs but we kept generally on our course. No sea-birds sighted (and an excellent sea for collecting). Tack- ing against the wind to best advantage. July 3- Decided to visit Rua Dika, a lovely pile between Upatel I, and Buena Vista which Mr. Bock tried to make on two occasions. Had to start engine about 11 o'clock to bring us up to it in daylight - arrived at 1 and David and I set off in the dinghy. I landed after much searching for a decent approach; The swell breaks heavily on all sides. Rua Dika proved to be nothing but a chain of rocks, the largest rising about 50 feet. I climbed to the top and found no birds but the usual evidence that sea-birds use it as a resting place. It was infested with a species of crab in great numbers. I returned to let David pick me up and took several photographs of it. We pulled around to the other side which is a long ledge sometimes awash. Here was a lone boobie in contemplation and I rendered it the distinction of adding it to the collection: The only bird on Rua Dika. At least, the place is off my mind. It looks quite alluring on the chart and is described in the "Pilot" as being covered with low bushes and grass. This is absolute humbug - it is solid volcanic rock and never could have supported any kind of vegetation - not even coconuts. July 4- Making for Tulagi with fresh SE trades. By con- tinuous tacking we reached the entrance by 10 P.M. where we lined up the leading lights under sail and could have let the wind take us right in but for the Matarau com-ing up close on our stern. We anchored about a half hour before she arrived. Just a year ago to-day the France left Tulagi (July 6th to be exact) after five weeks' delay with engine repairs, men in hospital, and one thing on top of another. July 5-16 At anchor in Tulagi Harbor. My father was not on the steamer as I had confidently expected. Received

(130) word, however on July 7th that he had arrived on the 5th and to cable instructions. I wired that he catch the S.S. Moraida to Samarai whence he can be picked up for the Solomons by the S.S. Noorookana, Sever Bros. steamer which is doing an inspection trip - very lucky, unusual, etc., but just in the nick. This was through the courtesy of Major Hewitt, gen- eral manager at Gavutu. They will bring him to the Res- el Group where we can pick him up with no delay to the work of the expedition en route to Buena Vista when we have finished the New Georgia group future. I got confirmation of this on the 12th. David and Charlie and I (for one day) collected on Tulagi I., taking some interesting stuff including long-tailed doves, midgets, the yellow-headed (female-gray) green parrot, graybirds, and blue-back kingfisher. I purchased some stores from carpenter's on credit - also at B.P.'s where I took ten drums of benzine at a reduced figure (25 shillings,) and got a promise for similar supply for the future in amounts over 20 drums, at less than 23/- a drum. Some cargo arrived that I ordered from Sydney last steamer through Tait & Co., but we had to wait alongside the wharf for a night until it was cleared. I shipped two cases of skews by freight and a box by mail. An interesting letter arrived from Doctor Murphy describing the sudden cancellation of his proposed trip out here. The weather during our stay has been very un-hospitable. Continuous SE trade fresh across the harbor with rainsqualls- (when we go outside it will fall calm). We had to put the big anchor down to hold her as she had dragged considerably. Dur- ing our entire visit to Tulagi the skipper has been dead drunk - absolutely out like a light. And with his ship shear- ing about at her cables and causing me anxiety. Her spent most of his nights (and days) passed out in the Chinese hotel - a filthy dive. The deploration is interesting. In talking with Captain Cwickshank of the Resident Commission

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"(131) yacht "Ramadi", I found that he would be attracted toward the command of the "France." So we discussed the possibility and turned it into a certainty. On July 13th I gave Lang his notice; it was one bolt through his drunken haze that had a slightly sobering effect. Cruickshank will be perfect - a retired Lieut. Commander of the Royal Navy, a thorough gentleman, and a skilled naviga- gator, who knows the Solomons and the waters East of New Guinea. In addition he will have his wife, who I know is the rare type that can be an addition to a ship - look after the galley and keep the form up. They will bring two Malaita kids with them at 10 bob a month to wash, iron, and wait on table, and the rest. Mrs. Cruickshank has promised to find me a cook who will take Tera's place, which will put all his time (and David's) on the kids; when at sea they will stand watch. The new skipper will take command after the next steamer (about the middle of August). He and I are excellent friends; I like Mrs. Cruickshank; we shall get on famously. On July 17th I signed on two Solomon Is. natives as boats' crew - Tera'i (Timothy-Mission Kristened) of Malaita and Uuga of Kia-Upatel - each at 25 shillings per month. Paul, the Gizy hand, jumped the ship to "make paper" with the government and so he received as pay from me. He simply worked his passage and did it very well. The crew refused to sail on Saturday night - July 14th - just when I had the skipper aboard and fairly conscious. So, we had to wait until Monday - the 16th when we got away from Carpenter's wharf where we lay since Saturday night at 8:30 A.M. steaming out of the harbor and setting all sail as soon as possible with a fair wind for New Georgia. The captain fell desperately ill of seasickness, which contin- ued much to my sardonic glee throughout the passage. July 17th Passed the Russell group this A.M. Reached Vanuana about 4 P.M. when we started the engine in order to get inside Wick- ham Anchorage before dark, the wind falling light. Anchored at 6.

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July 18- Charlie, David, and I started in the long-boat to visit a village seen about a mile off when we entered the passage last night. I decided that we might not be able to get through the break in the barrier reef and so put the boat about. Took a pair of noddy terns. Shifted the ship over to the mainland of Vayuamu I. just inside Emma Pt., and started up a river. Took two little blue kingfishers. We were able to navigate about 1/2 mile. Tried the boat at the beginning of the quick water and spread out. I worked my way up on top of a likely ridge, but found the bird as rare as ever and birds scarce. Strove SE trade, all day and an overcast sky. Took a female graybird, several flycatchers, and a large graybird. Heard the red-billed kingfisher, long-tail, & hornbill. Remarkable occurrence again as on Gtufai, when not present on the adjacent mainland of New Georgia. Vayuamu I. is approx 18 miles, N & S x 15 miles, E & W and is nearly circular except for the Mbariki peninsula extending to the NE. Like Kulambang it is a volcanic cone of an ancient origin, the summit rising 3,680 feet - The highest elevation in the New Georgia group. Years ago it was inhabited (1845), most of the villages being in the bush; at present there perhaps a half-dozen small salt-water villages, all mission-controlled weekends to 7-day. David & Charlie who had been rambling around the river bottom turned more birds than me. We returned on board by 5 P.M. July 19- A letter from the village we tried to reach yesterday came while we were away, saying he knew a trail up to the top of Vayuamu and had been instructed by Captain Middleton, R.N., at Gizo to look after all the wants of the France, and take us into the bush. He said he would return this morning to interview me - I waited two hours after sending David & Charlie ashore - then I followed. I took a little blue kingfisher before landing up the river. We always look for them close to the mouth among the mangroves. Shot several flycatchers, of the three species and a new bird to me - small graybird with black throat, belly & under tail - the under part of the primaries & secondaries also black inside brown. David remembers the type from Ysabel. There seems to be an apparent parallel between the New Georgia group and Ysabel, indicating geological relationship. The large graybird is another Ysabel product. Saw two hornbills today, but have not come upon any in the bush yet. I gathered a few insects today - hard-shelled spiders and hemiptera. Have seen no snakes - the common brown lizard is present. Charles brought in a red-billed kingfisher and two pygmy parrots - both similar to the mainland types. Returning I found the native had returned. He proved willing to conduct us up the mountain on Monday. July 20- Three added to the field party today. Started off at 7 in the rain, which continued intermittent all day. SE squalls with consistent overcast sky. We took another "little blue" and one white-eared kingfisher. David contributed a night-hawk yesterday - the first since Fanois I. There were not many birds about today. I got a red-breasted dove and

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(38) a large gray bird. Davon I have heard calling daily, but always in the highest branches of the highest trees and very difficult to see. The red-bustled pigeon is much in evidence; I have seen none of the gray

(134) come rodents. I do not entertain the slightest trace of that sentiment known as affection for Dunn, Philp & Co. We took every precaution and would have moved away to anchor if it had not been blowing so hard, and Tulagi harbor such an unspeakable place for small vessels - nothing less than 23 fathom, and these comes winging in at this time of year. It is a bitter lesson that teaches me to avoid every wharf in the future. July-23 David, Charlie and I landed with the rest of the crew to carry the gear as far as the garden of the little village - Kokwana. There are only 7 men and a native teacher. He made it known that Capt. Middey, the D.S. at Gizo (formerly Vanikoro) instructed them to lend every assistance possible to the France if she called. The first instance of natives (especially Missiniz) offering aid unsolicited with promise of reward. Four men & the Teacher and the three of us hiked on to the stuff and cut our way over an old trail. About a mile and a half inland we came upon an old monument - a small square sarcophagus built of coral slabs about 2 1/2 feet high surrounded by four up-right stones, at the corners. Inside the stone cavity which was covered by a flat rock were several skulls surrounded by rings (dog-nut shape) cut out of clam shell - all sizes, spear heads made by cutting through a section of shell, thus giving the impression of artistic fillings, and other broken ornaments, widely worn around the neck. This is the ikon worshipped by one old man who still lives in the bush with his three daughters. (This from the mission teacher). He has eschewed all missions with vehemence, speaks no pidgin, and has lately gone blind. He clings to his old beliefs and shelters his daughters from intrusion; they work his garden and he will not hear of any attachment with any of the Vanguan natives because they are all either 7th-Day Adventists or Methodists. Here is a real patriarch. By 10 A.M. it had commenced a heavy downpour which stayed with us right through the night after we had set up a camp and made the best of a wet situation. No dry wood & consequently cold food. O Miserere. One bird - a large graybird was shot through the fog. July 24 - We made a show of collecting after another cold meal this morning. It rained all night so that everything is slowly becoming saturated. The best house we can construct out of the piece of waterproof canvas and leaves, is far from leak-proof. I shot a bitter at about 3000 feet and later a thick-lees. The boys got nothing but a lone white-eye. I realize that the bird I shot

(135) on Kicker Is. and cited as a strange kind of heron was indeed a bitten, similar to the species taken to-day. Well, the rain stayed with us with a brief let-up during the night. If it is the same to-morrow we shall get down to the ship for a dry-out, at least. No fire and cold food is rather bearing. In the ship we have a haven of refuge after the day's drenching, which is not so bad. July 25 - Rain showed no inclination to cease and by 9 A.M. we were on our way down, leaving the camp and the equipment well-covered. We took a Bustard and some long-tailed Swifts. By the time we reached the beach the sky had broken - always the case. There is a shallows near at hand inside the reef which always has a few terns feeding. Shoals of little fish abound furnishing food for small reef sharks and the watchful birds. We shot several. Teora had about 20 birds put up which I labelled as soon as I got on board Hope has it that we shall be able to start again in the morning. July 26 - The captain accompanied us as far as the little islan which I photographed. We had a fair day of it taking the first hornbill and a number of thickheads. It is an odd specimen of this tribe that forbs around below 1000 feet. The camp is at 2100 and thence one can struggle up to 3500 feet. The drainage goes up easily to the camp which is on top of a sharp ridge that steadily narrows into a steep-sided razor-back from there on up. We brought up a quantity of dry wood from the sunny slopes and so had hot kai-kai. We had left the few birds well-covered, but rats managed to chew the feet completely off a flycatcher. To construct a dry & inviolable shelf for the birds is one of the few problems of camping on these windy, rain-swept peaks. We have nothing that one might call "camp equipment." Make the best of a bum & exceedingly damp situation. July 27 - A completely clear day. Thank Heaven. I climbed to the top of the peak, which is devoid of high trees but covered with thick bushes. It resemble the top of Gaturai in which we camped. The terrain below from 2000 feet up is also similar - the ground knee deep in rich moss. Most of the timber about 70 feet in average height with patches of tall trees. The fruit-bearing ones are the smaller. Here feed the yellow-bit dove, the long-tailed, black-winged pigeon, and the common gray-scrubbed species. I saw two white-throated pigeons. On the way down I took three long-tailed pygion and two yellow-dib doves. The for-mer appears to be similar to the type so plentiful on Boyainville. The long-tailed dove is present above 2000 feet, which contrast, with its segregation on the low river bottoms of New Georgia. David and Charle

(136) contribute a good bag of thickheads, and red-billed kingfisher, and one long-tailed pigeon. Species of graybirds, the blackhead, snow fantail, and both tailed (white-headed) and gray-headed flycatchers, are the only other species of the more common birds that are found above 2000 feet. The black honeysucker is also present - and the white-eye; these last two command the whole range of every large island. None of us have yet seen any pigmy parrots; the thrush is certainly not present. July 28 - clean until the afternoon when heavy fog and light rain set in again. Charlie got two white-throated pigeons. I saw another but disturbed it before I could shoot. You come upon them roosting calmly in low trees, right in front of your face; I haven't been able to sneak up on one yet. David shot a crested pigeon to compensate for one I missed. They usually respond and come to calling, but set down so high up in the fog that it is only a lucky shot that will bring one down. The long-tailed dove attends imitation but the yellow-hib - no. The call of the white-throated pigeon is a low two-note coo - something similar to the wellow sound that the common gray pigeon makes, when it is contented with life. This has been the best day for variety; several blackheads and thickhead were added. Heavy rain most of the night. July 29 - This day being Sunday we did not venture out far. David and I had a wash in the forest where streams poured everywhere. Shot a yellow-bis dove and a red-billed tyrannus, nex which came too near the camp. They don't know it's Sunday. Kokava came up for a chat and took down all the birds. July 30 - Rain again all day. We made the best we could out of this No-Man's Land by a few thickheads and another little kingfisher. The camp is slowly reaching saturation again. July 31 - Rain - a splendid title for any play, novel, poem, or memoir of the tropics; the very essence in a word. Waited until ten o'clock and then we cleared out. I sent Charlie down yesterday afternoon to bring up the top from the village if the rain continued this morning. David and I hunted until the early afternoon - another dove and two more kingfishers. We packed up and got down to the ship by dark. Teora had collected about 20 birds, between the crops. The world seems to be streaming.

(137) Aug 1st - Ashore in the rain - four of us, Teora added another chested pigeon. David and I have heard one each calling right in from the shore, which gives evidence of their breadth of range. It is the same on all the large islands of the New Georgia group - the main land, Vangunu, and Gatukai; one can be taken anywhere if the collector can shoot straight enough and far enough. It is most tantalizing because of the bird's comparative farness, the boldness of its call, and yet the high perch that lends considerable immunity from either #10 or #6 shot. On Bougainville we never took one below 3500 feet, but I daresay the species may be found at low elevations in certain areas where the peculiar tall fruit tree is found. The natives questioned affirmed this, which, based on my experience, I scoffed at in my notes. I must declare that everything I say must be taken with reservation. No conclusions, but all kinds of observations. David brought in a yellow-headed parrot. This species appears to be uniform throughout the group. Are we ever going to see the sun also rising? Aug 2nd - Arose up at 7 A.M. and steamed out the passage taking her well off the land before we set sail. Rain squalls blew us across the shoals that lie between Vangunu and Tetepari and appear very fearsome in passing over. David left us at one o'clock off the south end of Tetepari and then came with a vengeance about 4:30 increasing to a gale with buckets of rain. It kicked up the worst sea I have yet experienced out here. The ship was safely home to off the channel between Rendova and our objective but jumped about like a Camp Island joyride. Aug 3rd - The ship anchored with an exhausted bunch on board in the only known depth off the island - 21 fathoms close to the shore of the plantation. Here we were greeted by two lovely gentlemen - Messrs. Sexton and Stewart - operating Tetepari Plantation of the Solomon Is. Development Co. (optimistic nomenclature). Rain again - Charlie, David and I ashore. It has been a record month for rainfall here - 3 clear days in all July - and in the last three days 11 1/2 inches - over 3" a day!

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(138) The skipper and I breakfasted up at the house and rain began again before I had finished my cigarette. I got out about 2 A. M. and followed a stream. Intermittent rain all day. Tetupari I., is 14 miles long and a little over 3 miles in breadth - rough and ridgy with no prominent peaks - maximum altitude 1300 feet. The channel between this land and Rendova is about 1/2 mile across. I took very few birds - flycatcher, a stockhead and several kingfishers - white-bred & the small land "ee-ee". The former is quite plentiful, Charlie bringing thru. They live around the mouths of the several streams that flow through the coconuts, and amongst the mangroves at the S. end of the plantation. The island seems to be a haven of kingfishers - the big white-headed fellow is here in numbers, and appears to show an insular variation in a small blue-green spot back of the eye; I am not sure. It is so long since we have found them common. Purple gallinules are extremely common, running leaf-tame about the plantation. August 4 - Shore early with T-eora for half a day. I had a boy with me to point out a scant trail they use for pig-hunting. It is the first fair morning we have had for a week. I shot about 20 birds before lunch. The hornbill, crested pigeon, and the other altitude fruit-eaters, are not present. The long-tail dove is lacking. Both the blackhead and thickhead show new plumage variation; the latter seems to be unusually large. Pants & the blue-headed parakeet are quite common. And the red-knobbed pigeon. I heard myzopodes & the red-billed kingfisher. David brought in one of the latter. Charlie found a little lagoon in the mangroves and picked up 8 ducks (Pacificus), the usual test. All on board by 3 o'clock and finished the birds by dinner time, at which our friends on shore joined. They have "placed the place at our disposal." The manager supplied a case of kerosene, which we are out of and a large pail of fat (dripping) from fresh beef killings (which we also lack). Shore laid around - the blue-green reef heron, golden plover, little sand-piper, and some stray Curlew. The terrain in the bush is very rough - the upper strata mostly soft red clay + loam and crumbly rocks. The timber is very large, the great trees with the twisted hawse-like roots prevailing; these were not common either on Gatukai or Vanamina. We have taken ducks & ```json ```

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(139) frogs both here and on Vauganu. The common brown lizard is the usual species. I have noticed new land snails but have not collected any. The insect bottles are pretty near defunct but I intend to make up some new ones. August 5th Sunday and a clear & calm day - the first in a month. August 6th Four hunters ashore by 7. I climbed to the top of the central ridge - took blackheads, brown & black fantails, & thickheads. Saw three red-billed kingfishers, but only captured one. David took a ground dove yesterday. I heard the red-breast dove & the red-cap way up in the "Tangan" tops. So yet, no one has seen any graybirds. The bush has numbers of wild pigs judging from the amount of tracks and rooting I saw. The island has been uninhabited since 1893, exterminated by the head-hunters of Rendova and Roviana (New Georgia). The most common small bird, apparently, is the black fantail. Thickheads are constantly calling and the flycatchers run in little bunches, both the gray-headed and the bald, the latter in greater numbers. Charlie and Tlesa evidently hugged the shore because they bagged very few small birds. To-day it rained heavy showers both morning and afternoon. Aug 7th The first clear day for this moon when we could hunt. We took some thirty under fifty birds. And a good variety. I managed to get a female graybird and a new bird - the long-tailed "kekow" that Mr. Doek so often ventured after about twilight in various places - the Shortlands especially. This one is the first I have ever heard calling in the daytime except for one occasion on New Georgia I, when we were working at Mayo Entrance. I tried to call the bird without success, but I recall several - numerous times in the evening that I remarked on hearing one - a clear note with a slight crescendo and a short musical yodel very like an abridged edition of the thickhead. I remember it did - twelfth of Shortland I., New Georgia, and Gatakai. David said he thought it was the large graybird. Betty, therefore, a night-roamer it makes, the species about as rare in the daylight as the night-hawk. I imitated the sound easily and the adamy circled through the trees over me and alighted three times before I finally got the shot. It proved to be male-large and the stomach (or crop) was full of fruit - small red things, like tiny carrots that grow on a low tree and green berries about the size of cherries. Both the thickhead and white-eye show plumage differences from the New Georgia types; the latter has yellow legs. This change, the only possible one known and right off the plantation is unique in the access it gives to

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(140) the arifamma of the island. Usually we dread the terrain around such places - no decent bush trails and a long march to reach them. Here we take desirable stuff as we go along - kingfishers sitting on fence-posts and threading over the streams; gallinules are literally tame. They walk about everywhere and could be mistaken for domestic fowls of some description. Good places for shore birds on the steep-to coral beach and among the mangroves. There are no trails leading any distance inland, but plenty of small water-ways to follow. Rain during the night. August 8th. David, Charlie and I ashore - leaving T.E.O.R. & Philip to tie in the nest of yesterday's birds. We hunted till noon + returned for lunch. I took a hawk and blasted another red-billed kingfisher so badly that he is fit only for pickle - as far as I can recall - the first to be so renowned. Charlie took a yellow-eye graybird - representing now the other usual species of that genus. At 8'10, we hove up and proceeded toward Renard Cove on Rendova across Blanche Channel. We visited Blanche I., on the way and found it completely coral + supporting nothing important in mid-life. Such ground does not seem to support the usual species except the hardy bald flycatcher. Mr. DeCourcy Brown, a trader came out from his house in his dinghy to advise us and informed that all the coast is steep-to right along. In the cove we are snug but shall have to boat it about a mile and a half to hit into the high land. Discovered to-day that all our supply of new + decent .303 cartridges has gone - been used up - only another inconvenience. We shall carry on somehow to keep busy until we see the steamer in Tulagi the week of the 26th. August 9th. Four of us were taken across to Mr. Brown's place in his little launch, towing the dinghy (although if we had refused his kindness we should have been ashore much earlier). Got into the bush about 9 A.M. and did my best to get up above the old crater but reached only 1000 feet by one o'clock. No trails - bush very thick and rough going. Took white-eyes, gray-headed, and bald flycatchers. Heard two hawks and numerous doves (red-breast) but the density of the smaller trees and interlocking vines afforded us vision. Return by I waded the swift-flowing stream and shot a white-eared kingfisher. Alternating this mode of travel with runs into the forest, I

(141) took two red-bills and had a flying shot at a brown heron. The boy, had gone down the beach about a mile to a village where they found plenty of trails; they had a good bag including several doves and another bush kingfisher. I met some men from the commune working on a cause in the bush and enlightened them regarding the frog, snake, phalangyr, etc., market. The cursed engine in the obliging gentleman's boat would not start and we got back on board after seven. Put up about 40 gulls finishing about mid-night. With this unhandy position we cer- tainly cannot hope to get up over 2000 feet, a linear distance of 7 1/2 miles. We shall simply do our best to supplement the rather meagre Rendova series. Perhaps we shall enter Rendova Harbor again, if we cruise southward through the group once more, and have another camping fit. The only uncommon altitude stuff recorded are two miserable ? yellow-bib dove skins. The Long-tailed (black wings) pigeon was seen but not taken. The white-throated species doubtlessly is present. Our camping site seemed to embrace a rather barren area for such a large island; and then-the weather. The last two nights have been rain & squalls. I have positively heard the

(142) quick succession. In addition to the usual run of fly-catchers, white-eyes, muras, starlings, etc., the others had three bush king- fishers. The addition to this species in the last two days gives us a decent series - the only one of the rarer birds from the island. A number of pigmy parrots have also come in. Charlie get the brown bush heron. The starlings proved to simulate the usual red-eye species; so that the one I remarked on in my notes on the camping trip at Rendore Harbor in May (or June) must have been a young one or else an unusual product of albinism or something - white iris and minor dif- fierences. The boys of the village came through splendidly with five phalangors, several snakes, and two of the guppy frogs - one, the largest I have yet seen. They took calico, tobacco, and butcher knives. I myself secured four snakes to-day - two of them (brown & white - white iris) in a garden shack. The natives say this type is always present in the rafters of their houses. Teora also killed a couple. Mr. Gillen-Brown's assistant spent the night on board preparatory to an early start in the morning on a trading trip. Rain most of the night. We have been very thankful for the last two clear days. August 11th Hove up at 8 when it looked like rain for a consid- erable period and proceeded out of Rendore Cove to Mr. Brown's place. He loaded us up with fresh fruit and unimport- ant reading matter. Yesterday the captain purchased 14 eggs and 2 fowls for 14 sticks of tobacco. We left the Luzon state us across Blanche Channel past the whole length of Tetipari which gives us smooth water to run in and 16 miles to windward when we stopped the machine off the Hele Is., setting all sail for a dead beat to the Russell Group. August 12th (Sunday) At sea - beating to best advantage. Saw a few black shearwaters, but too rough to lower the small boat.

(143) August 13 - Murray I, asteam at dawn. Strong trades, SE & ESE make it a slow haul. The Russell group in sight all day. We hope to make it to-morrow. Lowered the small boat and chased a flock of terns & shearwaters without avail - about 4 P.M. August 14- Wind freshened and blew hard most of the day. Russell group about 6 miles off (Pepasala Bay) at 3, so we started the engines to get us in by night. I had another venture after sea-birds this morning but only took a toothsome gannet. Missed one shearwater. The sea and wind were too strong to do any manouvering. Went out about 9:30 and caught the ship on the reverse tack. Arrived and anchored off Lever Bros. his plantation at the head of the bay (Pepasala). Here I fully anticipated picking up my father, who was to come from Samarai on the Kooneskama, Lever's steamer which was to have taken the general manager and the chairman of the Board of Directors over to inspect some of their holdings. Everything had been apparently arranged to perfection and satisfaction when we were last in Tulagi. I find that the cursed Kooneskama (fittingly hideous name) never got to Samarai, so my father has been marooned there sometime. Never depend on anybody out here for anything. I was an utter fool. The outcome conjures up an appalling coil of possibilities. Spent the night but slept not. August 15- Hove up at dawn and proceeded out, setting all sail as soon as possible and stopping the engine. A 65 mile beat to Tulagi where I can learn something definite. Beating to best advantage all day and night. Wind fresh. Saw very few birds - no shearwaters within range but had a try with the small boat. The sea, however, was too rough and the flock kept to windward of me.

(194) ( August 16- Saw I. ahead at sunset last night. Wind varies N - E - SE - S - ENE which pushed us on considerably. De- cided to start the engine about 1 A.M. when light airs had us drifting back to a position from which we could see the smaller islands of the Rennell group. Passed Savo about 9 o'clock and stopped engine. Tacked with small gain until 1 P.M., then we started up again and with the sails all set steered for Tulagi - making 7-7½ knots, with the aid of the wind. Entered the harbor at 4.0 P.M. and anchored in

{ "text": "August 16\n\n- are basic things that took time to learn I was\n- of placehounds - so believing both ENE & 32 & 3 - I\n- one thing with MAI works anyone at first it helps\n- always on radios very strong - at least objects as bad\n- and become drunk later at a smaller relation as see\n- there are kept T. again benefits and does P. tools\n- this has never do nothing to me M91 either way\n- And if I question - that of hearts too like since at\n- 1940 or so, joined at 'heart' & him at a bus at two\n- I know a how it very settled down and felt - in her own line\n- from top at ground at center of new home. Of at the motor leafhopper\n- market at then small model car's actions has little tragedy\n- occurred as because cost and relative handicap, too much\n- (present with real) environment &o I would like to put\n- in service and have been very satisfied as, personal at so at\n- At first sight of such interesting action in stocks lately\n- on N. channel positive has studied except a few moments.\n- needed access & it only pleasure not just content\n- or two motives was I -only I might fear at memory\n- Concerning the great film of their new group\n- and down to perspective that they have but\n- in all these, real values. People are proud\n- of willingness. How faster would look at a\n- mistake as has been done by both it do at other\n- time to do with goods feel good. It is at what\n- it to get to the toping & the machine which is much a personal at top at it.\n- just through the system just accept it, you'll see if\n- not that I see in shopfloor as can I want close\n- before I can think of my workplace well with\n- other's I can think of right. Capital Parkbank will talk\n- center of off-current strength. Capital Parkbank is Brownwood\n- commands & Marchon (Aug 20th). He shall proceed the two.\n- not because Marchon (Aug 20th) John's - Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brownwood & Brown [TRANSCRIPTION_TRUNCATED_DUE_TO_LOOP]

(148) August 17 - Multitude of business. Thank the stars Tait & Co., sent our cargo from Sydney without prevarication. This means we can work in the domain of Papua before returning to Faisi whence we shall proceed to Choiseul. If the adjustment goes as planned, the expedition shall not suffer; the only real goat is Cyrus Hamlin M.D. No collecting accomplished. August 18 - Rainy. More business - mostly with the administration. The R. Commissioner's yacht "Ramadi" is left without a skipper, the crisis of having to advance a new one occurring rather late - Lang is to take the job temporarily. Secured sulphur for fumigation by scouring all the stores in Tulagi. August 19 - (Sunday) Prepared vessel for fumigation. Packed books, writing. Rain forced us to postpone the start until tomorrow. August 20 - All magazine & ammunition out of the hold. Sulphur pots ignited at 9 o'clock with instructions for careful look-out. Negotiated a loan from W.R. Carpenter & Co., through the Tulagi Manager, Mr. R. G. Scrymgour - a good friend of mine; this enabled me to pay off Lang - he goes to the government. God's Truth! Captain Crookshank officially took over command of the "France" to-day. Opened the ship at 10 P.M. August 21 - Delays. No reply yet to my cable to Samarai. David and Charlie ashore collecting. One large rat killed on deck - certainly escaped out of the hold when it was opened - I hope it is the last survivor. Dinner at Mr. Scrymgour's. August 22 - Samarai wireless came to-day. Capt. & Mrs. Crook- sbank moved their luggage on board this afternoon. We cannot sail before noon tomorrow due to various compli-cations involving customs, cargo duty or same, clearance, sea-gear, and other things. No collecting. August 23 - Awe up at 2.30 P.M. and at last got the hell out of Tulagi. Dirty night in dangerous channel bet., Guadalcanal and Florida I.s. Used engine until 4 A.M. when we cleared the Atoll Ears. August 24 - At sea. Rain squalls & adverse tidal currents. Saw terns, interspersed with shearwaters. Wind variable. Searching for collecting.

(146) August 25 - Cleared Marian Sound and set course for Rennell I. Wind fresh squalls all night but with keeping shifts from the N.E. Sea rough. Saw a few isolated shearwaters - the common large black species and three storm petrels. The latter looked identical with the pair taken off Kurua on the west coast of Bon- gai'ville. David and I stood by with loaded guns on deck. We took numerous shots without success. August 26 - Sighted Rennell at 7:45. A good passage so far. But we cannot escape the 20-mile beat up the windward side to the only possible anchorage. Capt. Crookes have been here 5 times, assisting Australian scientists - Hogben (Anthropology) and Stanley (geology) of Sydney U. who spent about 6 weeks on the island. The former is at present out at Ford Howe (Ontong Java). Passed around to the lee end of Rennell about 4:0 P.M. A white-bellied gannet flew around the ship toward evening. Have seen shearwater, of at least three different species and the little storm petrels. Now in sight when we were in the lee of the land and might have lowered the boat. Fine clear night - busting trades E.S.E. August 27 - Tacking to best advantage. Kept good look-out for sea- birds as the wind has gone down somewhat. Set a course for the bay of the anchorage with the engine helping at 11:15. Made Rennella Bay at 3:15 P.M. and anchored in 15 fathom. David & I landed immediately. Some of the salt-water natives came out to the ship. Birds are profuse. Since I am anxious to complete the work here I shall simply record our daily routine saving my rapid notes for a complete sketch of Rennell Island and its avifauna. We returned with a dozen specimens, each by six. Aug 28 - David, Charlie, Teore and I landed at 7:30 amongst swarms of natives. We had as many birds as we could comfortably handle by 3 P.M. Aug 29 - All landed as yesterday. Very rough terrain island, but plenty of birds. The natives are a wholesale nuisance and we must use diplomacy. They are quite "uncontrolled" but very friendly - too much so.

(147) August 30 - All landed except me. I developed photograph, taken yesterday afternoon. The boys returned at 2 P.M. with good bags. The natives are most obnoxious, interfering with everything. August 31 - All landed and hunted all day. I made arrangements with the chief of Nasiola, the big fish chief to visit his lake and villages inland. We go on Monday. Sept 1 - I remained on the ship to finish yesterday's birds with Philip's aid. Prepared movie camera for use at a dance this afternoon. Roused the crew off to go, leaving a couple to watch the ship. The Rennell people are prime thieves. The ladies are unusually affectionate, which has had a demoralizing affect on the crew. There are always about 50 on the ship, but I plan to institute a taboo while we are camping. Aux ammunition very near finished; we are using the 410. shells and the small "Bay State" guns. Sept 2 - Sabbath Day observed. Thoroughed with natives. Sept 3-6 Marched inland about 7 miles to Lake Tergano where the Nasiola villages are situated. Here we had perfect weather for three days' hunting. It was mainly on the lake where we found a new species of grebe and an egret (a cormorant). It is a remarkable body of water. Unfortunately we missed two very valuable species - a large white crane and a RAIL. Our ammunition gave out before we had accomplished this purpose. All the aux cartridges are gone now. We haven't a hope of going to Bellona I., and we must visit Rennell again. This can be done with Bellona when we are on the south coast of San Cristoval. We reached the "white sands" about 2 P.M. on Thursday, The 6th. Tired and discouraged.

(148) Sept 7th Row up, at 8:30 - proceeded out under power and set all sail immediately, setting course direct for Rosal I., the easternmost of the O'Nera's group. Sept 8th - At sea - I shall be reluctant to lower the small boat as long as the wind holds fair and strong. Petrels and gannets seen to-day. Sept 9th - At sea - Saw black shearwaters and terns. Did not lower the boat. Beautiful weather. Sept 10th - At sea - shot two storm petrels from the deck. Sighted a large flock of Noddy Tern, - a few shearwater intermixed. Favorable opportunity but I did not lower the boat. We are steadily logging off the knots. Sighted land at sunset - Rosal I. Sept 11th - At sea. Numerous sea-lids about. got one Common gannet. Weather continues fine. SE Trade has been rather weak. Took one Long-tailed Tern. Sept 12th At Sea - Entered Toward Passage at noon. Sighted flocks of terns - mostly noddies. Sept 13th In amongst the islets and atolls, close to Samurai. Started engine at 10 A.M. Anchored off BP's wharf in 6 fms., at 11:30. The doctor granted pratique after lunch and informed that my father has de- parted for America via Honolulu on the Matson freighter "golden Cloud." Customs boarded and passed entry. Sept 14th - Picked up a wire sent from the Museum on Sept 7th instructing me to proceed to Sydney and put the vessel in first class condition including the installation of a diesel. I wired New York - "pro- ceeding as instructed," but I expect complications.

(149) Sept 15-Oct 5th The interim of 20 days was spent in Samarai, during which time considerable communication with New York was carried on to the final effect that the toerhaling of the "France" be done by Handley & Clay of this port. The advisability of this was immediately ap- parent upon consideration of only one - not the multi- tude of difficulties presented by a trip to Sydney. On Saturday the 15th we watered the ship at the Steamship & Trading Co's wharf, and on the 17th steamed over to the slip where a shipwright (Mr. Groufors) spced the lip of the forecast - which was almost cut through by the action of the heavy swy which holds the weight of the two jibs. This extremely serious fault had gone unnoticed - at least, un- mentioned, until "Timmy" a Malaita boy, one of the new boats' crew warned us about it. To attempt a passage to Sydney with this would have been fatal. At this time I had not contravened the Museum Com- mittee's plans because I imagined particular rea- sons for the trip, regarding itinerary. When I urged the purchase of a new engine in my letters from Gizo in June I had no idea of the facilities of Samarai. Handley & Clay and the local engineer - Mr. Izod can meet our requirements cheaper quicker and much more to our satisfaction. David went out shooting behind the slip on Sept. 17, and I went out on the next day. The result was several interesting birds - most of them new to my limited range of recognition. A yellow-bred-of- paradise is the only protected species rumored to be in those parts. A white-eared Kingfisher take along the mangrove creek resembles the Solomon type. The final result of my negotiation with Dr. Murphy was, that I order the engine and place the contract for the entire job in Samarai. On Sept 22, Mr. O'muller, BP's manager wired to London the exact specifica- tions, which had been measured when we were up on the slip, for a 55 h.p. DEUTZ diesel, a German engineering product of the latest type. It has an ex- cellent reputation and is reasonably priced. Since we found 7 plates of the copper

(150) sheathing off, the captain and I decided that it was most advisable to put the ship up now and have that part of the overhaul put in order before the engine is installed at which time the ship will be on the slip for at least two weeks. Some of the copper has been off since May and three months is the maximum risk of penetration by the tereida worm. In view of our having to go up twice Mr. Fletcher, the slip manager, deducted $10 from the total cost of pulling the vessel up (usual charge $30 - once). The "France" was on the slip from Sept. 24th to Sept. 27th (4 days) - dur- ing which time over 60 plates of copper were re- placed and a surprising amount of miscel- laneous work done. Indeed, she was in sorry need of repair. On the 26th and 27th, David and I went out shooting with good results. David brought in a night hawk and I con- tributed a beautiful, little bush kingfisher, a woodpecker, and a peculiar ground run- ner - almost like the Solomon Is., "long- tail on a smaller scale. Its stomach showed insects. I had to stalk it to get a shot; it never flew, but ran very swiftly in the thick grass that covers the terrain around the plantation and dairy farm near the ship.

(151) The bird ran across my path and I had about 20 minutes of rambling before I got the shot; unfortunately this took most of the feathers off its back. There were three kinds of small birds found about this grassy section, which is quite indigenous to the landscape - an olive bird - something resembling the Rennell Is. species, and a honey-sucker - unusually short-billed; and two tiny birds - one with a perky tail, which I called a pew and a brown and white chap with a large, blunt bill - like the American grosbeak, or a finch. All the other species were found in the brush, except kingfishers, which came from the plantation area or near the shore. All the stomachs I thought to examine revealed insects. I saw numerous species - not taken - are a large kingfisher - almost like the laughing jack-ass. The crow was a fruit-eater - and the parrot. Lack of time because of other occupations concerning our future make the result, primarily "filling-in". From Sept 28th to Oct. 5th I was waiting for cash from New York and was held up, in addition, by the government of Papua. I applied for permission to use the three boys as assistants due to a law I was told existed, the explanation I leave to someone of greater

(152) perspicacity of imagination - no natives of the South Pacific may obtain permits for firearms in the do- main except Papuans. The Govt. Secretary communi- cated the strongest objection of the Supreme council that I collect any birds at all. I asked- please might I have up to 20 as a limit, having specified in my original request that no protected species were desired (undoubtedly they do not occur in the islands). Approval to take "the each unprotected species for museum

(109-1) 153 ing right into deep water and so set all sail and stood out for Hastings Is. Strathord consists of two small, low islands - almost completely planted and not worth the landing. Oct. 8th - 1st 8 A.M. anchored the vessel in rather pre- carious position at NW end of Hastings. Charlie, Davis, and I landed and found a sheer climb up jagged coral and the ensuing terrain an appalling mix-up of broken ridges, holes, and uneven footing. We took only eight species - the most interesting a white-tib dove, so like the Solomon Is. bird except for the tib. They were numerous, calling continuously from the fruit tree tops. The white-eye, flycatcher, and thickhead are in a new variation; the brown fantail is quite the same as the type taken hitherto. The honey sucker is a gray-green bird of rather drab appearance, but calls like other kinds of honeysuckers. The song of the white- eye is familiar, but both flycatcher and thickhead offer a new note: the former chatters like the Solo- mon species, but retains a continual trill in it, low, whistle. The thickhead calls with a chirp and a trill, but with no vigor and variability like the big Solomon chap. The male of the species here is a prettier bird with its white throat; the female ap- ppears quite like the usual type. Charlie caught a

154 Nikoba pigeon and David a lesser eagle hawk. The sto- mach was empty; it looks quite like the Solomon Is. type; we took one on Pororan Is., off “Little Buka.” In all we found the morning's work not as fruitful as it could have been, had the topography of the place allowed us to cover more terrain. Boarded at 1 P.M., when the captain hove up and set a course under all sail for East Is., the easternmost and largest of the three. Tacked twice during night Oct. 9th Beating toward destination, clear of intervening reef and anchored finally at 5 P.M. off N.W. corner of island in very rough water but sheltered from SE wind. Oct. 10th Four of us landed at 7. I returned at noon having used up all my aux shells. Found that Charlie had returned during the morning with fever—his temp. 104. The avifauna here is just similar to that taken on Hastings. I was fortunate in getting a new ground dove, a rather fine bird. The dove is the same white- bib. No one reports any pigeons; I have not heard any calls. A hawk also came my way—a small striped species. Its stomach showed lizards. Both the striped and the short, brown lizard are common on the Bourvoloir—similar to the Solomons. I shot 3

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155 megapodes. They are in rich plumage - the usual brown but the legs are yellow with black markings on the toes, which have particularly long claws. Again, the call is different - a loud, fast trill, quite unlike the weird yodel of the Solomon malar. I observed no nests or egg posses. This bird is not like the New Guinea bush turkey, which builds the great cumber- some mound communally; this would compare with the genus megapodus described by Wallace in the "Malay Archipelago." This island was reported inhabited by the H.M.S. Basilisk in 1874. Wild pigs abound; David shot at four to-day. We also came upon a hole inconveniently filled with broken skulls and bones. The former inhabitant, have undoubtedly moved to another place, if they did not die out, which seems unlikely. No signs of actual habitation in the interior - only coco- nuts near the anchorage, and pig trails. Oct. 17th Manuel very ill with fever; and both Teora and David have asked for quinine. Charlie still laid up. Undoubtedly infection from the slip. David, Teora, and I landed at 7. The typical land "ee-ee" kirbyfisher is common here; we have taken several. I heard the same chop at Hastings. The same run of birds were brought in. Teora shot a gray fly -

156 atcher, not unlike the kind so common on small out- lying islands and in the New Georgia group - Solomons. This is a large bird - unfortunately it lacks its tail through a bad shot. The species cannot be com- mon. I have seen none. David reports missing a ground dove - but he brought home two pigs, in the capture of which our dog -

157 The birds here are similar again to the Bougainville group, in spite of the distance between them. All three islands are similar in respect to topography - steep - to with sheer cliffs of coral and limestone. The terrain inland is rough, broken coral and wooded - but not densely as described by the sailing directions ; the smaller bushes, creepers, ferns, etc., cannot get the footing. Consequently, walking is impeded by the uneven ground ; on other islands it is the profusion of undergrowth. The Bougainville group lies approximately lat. 10° 20' S - long. 152° W. Strathford and Hastings Is. are about five miles apart ; East Is. lies 13 miles in its named direction. These were given their original appellation by Bougainville. Alcester lies at lat. 9° 30' S - Long 152° 25' W, about 30 miles SW of Woodlark I. The native village is very poorly, all the young men being signed away fishing teche-de-mers. However the old man (one), and meris cultivate two story gardens. These produce good sweet potatoes ; yams and taro and paw-paw very meagre. Coconuts are resplendent, as would be expected. The new bird here is a large fruit-eating pigeon - gray breast & head and glossy dark blue back - iris dark red. It is not far from the Solomon gray Icoom. David and I took five.

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158 Other species were Thickhead, flycatcher, and white-eye; kingfisher and fan-tail are present. I missed a ground dove, dammit. The megapode does not occur here. The old native reports a long-legged bush bird - I think a heron. We saw the usual reef species along the shore. None of these islands support parrots or cockatoos, as far as we have ascertained. Returning to the ship I found that Teora had returned with fever at 2 o'clock. David, Philip, and I finished the birds by 11:30. Oct. 13 With most hands sick and a precarious run necessary to make Woodlark I decided to set out for our destination immediately. Rain threat- ening. I want to make Woodlark, if possible, be- fore Sunday to give all hands a rest. Illness is always a cursed handicap. So - we ho've up at 8 A.M. and made sail N by W. Passed through sev- eral squalls and made the entrance to the deep-water passage for Kulamadan (govt station) at noon. It is necessary to go to this place because the opera bouffe of a government for Papua make everybody take a clearance wherever they go - except yachts, and our registration to this effect is not valid because we are not a member of any

159 recognized yacht club. Absolute Hooy! The pas- sage into Kwarapan Bay is about ten miles from the outer beacon - very tortuous, but fortun- ately well-marked. Dropped anchor in 2 ½ fathom. The aspect of the shore is desolate. The gulf holds out two miles up a hill. We found that the ma-gistrate was out "on patrol" but expected back this week-end. The whole aspect ashore is most dreary and clearly evidences the disintegration following the evacuation of the big wireless staff maintained during the war and subsequently of all the gold miners. Two drink companies are just about mak-ing a living at present. Rain intermittent but continuous. Oct 17th Saltalk observed. The Resident Magistrate-Mr. Rogerson came in and boarded us from his official whale-boat. All details about clearance, cargo, mail, etc. were cleared up; we have to ac-quire an outward "transit" (excellent word) to leave this miserable island. Thank Heaven it en-titles us to go unmolested by officialdom wherever we want via island ports to Samarai. I hope this will be an end out, for this trip, anyway.

160 Oct. 15. Sent David and Charlie up a dismal creek in pouring rain while the skipper and his Mrs. and I hiked up to the center of settlement. Here we made a few purchases at the little store and indulged about two hours with the loyal royal servant before we could get away. On Saturday we stole a heavy iron plate from the junk pile at the wireless station that will do for a chain plate. We hope to get it drilled at the first establishment of a mining company located near Seroga Bay. Arrived back on board about 2 P.M. far too late to leave for Suloga, which is bound to be an onerous passage. I wrote some and read Johnson's "Table-Talk", being too chagrined to go out shooting. The boys got on- ly two birds - a white-eared kingfisher, again like the Solomon species that inhabits mangroves and river entries; and a crow, which is new, having a white iris and a considerable tail. This would be a hell of a place to hunt with at least a mile of fringing mangroves all around the land. Rain again during the night. Manuel and Teresa are still shaky. No one aft has had a dose of fluor, praise be accorded.

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(161) Oct 16 Cleared out of Bulamadan at 8 A.M. with all requisite documents, steering out channel and making for Suloga under power. Heavy continuous rain until we anchored inside Rubana Point. David, Charlie, and I landed. Teresa has fever. This is the one point where there is any altitude on the island. Terrain mostly a brown, crumbly soil with plenty of stones-rough as usual. The natives have decreased 33.3 in the last ten years, so there are no tracks. I noticed the lack of small birds immediately. Managed to call up three honey suckers-a new species-black with a faint tinge of red on the top of the head (male) like the Solomon honey sucker; iris, dark brown and white on the inner side of the secondaries. A gaudy, red-billed parrot, resembling Rennell Is., and San Cristoval is very common. They are tough and feed very high. The call is unusually variegated-a buzzing whine most the time. David got two beautiful, white pigeons, which natives say are quite common-iris, a dark brown-feet, lavender-hill; green, a lighter shade at the tip. He also took one fly catcher-glossy blue with a peculiar mouth-bright orange, like pumpkin on the inside. Suloga peak, the top of Woodlark reaches maximum 1300 feet, so there can be no bird variation by elevation. The only aboreal dove

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(162) present is the black-bik, similar to the Solomon's. This, a native verified. So the white-bik species taken on the small islands en route here are a special variety; I think a variation of the yellow-bik. Often the feathers in the bik are so tinged; the rest of the bird looks the same. I shall be interested to see whether the large ground dove compares to the island species (East). The one native village on Wlapas Is., numbers about 12 people. The skipper arranged to-day for one of the men to guide him up to the Mining outfit. Here we hope to get the iron plate for the broken starboard fore shroud drilled. Oct. 17- Teora still recovering. David, Charlie, and I landed at 7:30. Usual scarcity of small birds. I took a honey-sucker - dark, blue-black with a stem - very like the New Britain species - also another with yellow breast and gray head - which proved a female; evidently the cor- respondent of the black male, taken and described yes- terday. It rained like hell from 10:30 to 2:30. David and Charlie got back aboard about 1. I stayed out and got properly lost, being rewarded for my pains by another red-billed parrot, a cockatoo with a rather fine yellow crest, and one of the orange- mouthed fly catchers. Charlie had a pair of new birds - brown fly catcher, evidently the female of the

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(163) blue-black male. The small birds seem to keep to the tree-tops and only come on persistent calling- the calls of both flycatcher and honey-suckers here are like other species of the same genera encountered in the Solomons. The screech of the parrot, so common here drowns out all the other birds; it sounds more like the swing of a rusty gate than anything else. The captain was eminently successful in get- ting the shroud-plate made; he reports numerous white pigeons amongst the mangroves. Oct. 18- David down with high fever. Charlie and Teora went away close to the ship and I made a wild goose chase in the small boat up to the head of Suloga right where I saw numerous birds but only got four - a white-eared kingfisher and two honey-suckers and a flycatcher. I have at last got the species straight - there are only two - the black and the one with the blue sheen; of the latter we have taken several young ones, which show the gray head which I confused as a new species. The female of the black species is a greenish gray with slight red on the head. Teora contributed a hawk. Both boys did much better than me. I visited three mangrove patches and took one trail in the bush up to a native settlement. I saw several species not yet taken - a large white heron, ground dove, and two others. Everyone seemed

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(69) [illegible] at the most important moments, and I was ashore during all rain showers, about five. The mining men say that geologists who have ex- amined Mama Neckar that it has formerly sub- sisted below the sea - indicated by something. The soil is very porous, draining readily. The scarcity of birds - small kinds especially remind me of Mons Is., which was so unproductive. Not only is there an apparent delinquency in numbers but also in number of var- ieties - no graybirds, thickheads, only one species of fly- catcher. Natives say that Guassopa is the place for birds; they say more small kinds are found around mangroves. Everything here is inaccessible. There are 800 odd inhabitants here and most of them are at Gua- sopa; so we shall have trails to get about on, which helps infinitely when it rains every day. I wish now that we had risked more time in the Bourvolair and Alcaster Is., for the birds there are evidently of special interest. This Suloga is a miserable place; however, effecting such a sound repair of the shroud plate is return enough for our otherwise relatively unprofitable visit. Oct 19- Teora, Charlie, and I up to the head of the bay in the whale-boat for the day. He spent it mushing around in the mangroves where we garnered numerous

(165) honeysuckers, mostly the shiny kind. A half dozen crows, two white-eared kingfishers - a white pigeon; these pigeons are seen continually around the mangroves. They sit near the marge or in high trees right on the shore and being very wary are hard to get. Truly a beautiful bird - dark V.D. brown iris and a dark green bill, lightening to a yellow- ish-green at the tip. The crow, true to form, is very readily called up. A half-caste of long residence here visited us to-day. He recalls that butterfly collectors had been to Woodlark, but no one on birds. Oct 20- Four collectors over to Mapas Is., with George, the half-caste. He separated and traversed the island from S to N. It is 3 miles long and a mile wide, fringed with man- groves. He found starlings about the native gardens. This is invariably their habitat. David took a broad-billed huetbird and in all we shot six "Nikoba" ground pigeons, the irides- whitish gray. Two of the white pigeons were taken amongst the mangroves. Saw one ground dove. This makes the second; I hope to shoot some around Guasopa. Golden Plover and the little sand-piper are common. Two frigate birds, probably the lesser species, were taken on the way back to the ship. The half-caste is mission-educated and quite intel- ligent and conversant with most of the fauna. He doe

(166) not report anything we have missed except the white heron. Ground doves we must get, and, if David's information that he saw two is correct, the little bush kingfisher. The phalauger is present; very few snakes; and the butterflies are unusually beautiful. For variety of species in birds, Woodlark is not as productive as its size would promise: about 35 miles by eight, the highest point here - Suloga Peak, 1300 feet; most of the terrain is flat. Oct 21- Saltalk observed. No heavy rain for the past two days; it came again to-day. Three men from the Bowater Mine visited us; they are the gentlemen who repaired the broken shroud. Oct 22- Hove up as soon as the light was good and stood out for Grasspa, the big harbor around the point to the southward. Used sails and entered passage into bay at 2 P.M. Anchored off main village an hour later. Charlie and Timothy down with fever. David, Teora, the half-caste, who rode down with us, rowed over to Buk-ua, a small island, where we shot about 30 pycaras - gray, like the Solomons, and the white (like New Ireland. I also got a sterling and a white-headed "kni-kni", the prototype of the famous Solomon salt-water kingfisher. The birds of Woodlark are scarce - yet

(167) Interesting for the relative species of other archipelagos represented - namely the Solomons and the Bismarck. The island stretches E and W, the most part of which is low at either extremity and of coral forma- tion; a central belt of porphyry rock rises to the 1300 feet, centrally. It is here they find the gold. The miners have a more productive vocation than we have. Oct 23- Four hunters ashore at 7:30. Timothy and Vuga, Solomon boys, are now ill. He turned in a decent day's work, adding two additional species - gray-headed fly- catcher and graybird - again similar to Solomons. Sever- al bluebirds taken - called here the "dollar-bird." The eusive ground dove is fairly common here about the plantation; it is the first time I have ever seen them so bold. Moreover, they are timid and hard to stalk. Mr. Eade, the coconut-king of Woodlark, says they are always around the copra driers. Took two brown and very sluggish snakes of a brown, with whitsel cross-pattern. Rain most of the morning. Oct 24- Four ashore at 7 - out for ground doves. We Got five to-day. An eagle-hawk was taken and a smaller brown fellow, making two from Woodlark.

(168) The ground dove is similar to the Bourbon species - its dark brown, feet and bill, reddish - a hue of carmine. Honey-eaters are typical in their habits, feeding in flowery trees and the coconut palms; the sheen species is far more abundant than the black. Fly-catchers call like the Solomon I'old species; the gray-headed variety is not plentiful, and looks a larger bird than the Solomon kind. No fantails, land kingfishers, etc., Nothing new seen to-day. Swifts are present, but none have been taken; they are the usual species. I do not want to waste any cartridges. Cockatoos have been added - a larger type than the Solomons with a fine crest. This bird is found near Samarai, and is probably or not the neighboring islands. To my knowledge, the only birds missed are the white heron, seen in the mangroves, and a small bush kingfisher - reported by David to resemble the one representative taken on New Guinea. The House of Eade came off to tea. We are prepared to sail in the morning with aspects of fair trades. Oct 25 Afore up at 7 and set sail outside harbor, standing out for Gawa Is. Clear day for passage through very shoal water at westward of Woodlark. He counted nine patches, detached in the channel. Numerous terms,

(169) around the exposed reefs and cays. I saw a gray (Solomon type) pigeon in flight 8 miles off Woodlark. We anchored off western side of Gawa at 8 P.M. Oct 26- Four hunters ashore. Found nothing new and birds as scarce as on Woodlark. Gawa is about 15 miles NW of Woodlark. It is an elevated atoll, coral fringed with a great central declivity, where there are over a dozen villages. Extensive cultivation. Natives similar to Wamas, friendly, and productive of food. In its basic formation, it is a prototype of Rennell Is., probably of more remote origin since the brackish lake has survived in the center. Such water may be obtained anywhere by digging. Oct 27- Under way with fair wind for the others of the Marshall Bennett group. I passed Kwaraawata, also inhabited & centrally cultivated, lying about 5 miles NW of Gawa. Anchored off leeseide of Dugumemwu, the only uninhabited island of the group. Four of us landed at 8 and returned at noon. The interior is all coral and supports sparse bird-life, as typical. The ground dove is the only significant yield of the Marshall Bennets. Natives of the three eastern islands of the group use this, the smallest, wholly lacking in soil, as fishing quarters. All on board by noon when we have up and stood

(170) out for Iwa Ts., but passed it & about 2 cables to leeward in a heavy squall from due N. It is steep to all round, offering no anchorage. The structure is similar to the others neighboring. Natives hailed us from the top of the coral-lime cliff; they are reported to be migrants from the Trobriands. We soon sighted Kitara and ran the engine for an hour, reaching anchorage off the western side between the mainland and a small islet. Kitara lies 4 miles eastward of the middle of Kirivina. The natives number about 700 and cultivate big gardens in the central fertile plain. In this, the terrain again resembles the islands just visited. Mr. Cameron, the sole white resident, trying up a plantation, came off to see us. He seemed very knowledgeable about the birds, having been here 16 years. Oct 28- Sabbath observed. Teresa down with fever. A great host of natives visited us, bringing lashings of fine food-fruit, fowl, and vegetables-even to sweet corn and beans. Heavy rain most of the day. Oct 29- David, Charlie, and I out at 7. Charlie returned at 10 A.M. with high fever. I took the track up to one village and found walking quite easy after the coral cliff had been ascended. Kinds here indicate the beginning of real Papuan

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(171) birds. Three species immediately come to mind as main- land kinds - a magpie (a butcher bird), a woodpecker (Cameron calls it 'leatherneck'); and a black insect- worous bird, having a flare on its extreme lateral tail feathers. Sequoiguoi is the native term. The little thrush-green 'sheen' honeyeucker is here and with the glossy flycatcher makes just two species of small birds. Mr. Cameron is quite intelligent about the birds and informs that several kinds he be- lieves to be migratory - the 'ee-ee' kingfisher, two species of pigeons - the white (known as the Torres Strait pigeon) and the gray 'koom' (Solomons). There is also a large bird known as 'pulo' in native; Cameron calls it the 'storm bird.' This and the white-headed eagle-hawk we have not yet seen. The ground dove is the same as the Bourbonloir- Woodlark species. The cockatoo is lacking and very few of the red parrots. On the whole the avi- fauina shows a marked transition from Wood- lark and the Marshall Bennett group. We have here, perhaps, the meeting point of two migratory chains, diverging generally E and W. I was very careful to enquire from several natives whether or not the new species encountered by us here, coming from the East are present on Iwa, the nearest of the Marshall Bennett group. All were

(172) positive in the negative. This island is inhabited but affords no sort of anchorage. We passed it within a hundred yards to leeward in a heavy northerly squall. Undoubtedly we should have found the same kinds of birds, similarly meagre in numbers, as on Jawa and Dugumene Is., and Woodlark for that matter. Oct 30- Charlie still sick. Teresa, David, and I ashore at 7. Mr. Cameron sent one of his labor boys out with Charlie's gun (he has a Papuan license) to look for this "pulo" and the white and gray pigeons. We have seen nothing of those species. The flycatcher is hard to get here because of the lack of navigable bush. The whole central declivity of the island is cultivated and except where trails go through the forest is very thick and the ground entirely broken coral, precipitous, making penetration too difficult. There is only one track beyond the plantation which extends all along the shore for four miles and continues onto the other side of the island. This is the path Mr. Cameron's boy will follow; if there are pigeons there he usually gets some. Lately he has not been getting any. These pigeons are shot for food regularly by residents; we are expressly allowed to take ten skins. I took nothing new today. It was very hot - true NW weather.

(173) I talked long with Mr. Cameron about Ketara and its natives. He knows the language thoroughly, and told me some of their folk-lore. He assisted Malinowski when he was on the main island (Ririwina) in his ex- tensive ethnographic study. These people are undoubt- edly different from Papuan races. The maladjust- ment caused by the Methodist Mission has des- troyed all their acquisitive instincts and rendered the race a dying one - just another case. There are other disintegrating factors but the mission is the most vicious. I have found this to be true wherever Protestant Missions are operating with any affect; for appositive instance - no mission has had any real hold on Malaita. I learned a great deal more, but it is extraneous, I think, to this journal. The natives have brought us a good rep- presentation of snakes, frogs, and geckos. I have noticed remarkable butterflies and insects; but I have no cyanide bottle, at present. My curiosity is continually pricking me to do something in this line and in malacology. Little has been accomplished since Dr. Droume left the expedi- tion. Oct 31- Hove up at sun-up and set sail to pass,

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(174) around the northern extremity of Kiriwine Is., which is Bomatm Pt. Kiriwine, the main island of the Trobriands lies at approx. 151° W and 8° S. It is over 40 miles long but not over 15 miles wide any where. We shall spend a few days first at Kailema Is., just four miles west of the main island. There is no high land in the Trobriand group. All the islands are coral and indicate similar atoll origin. Winds light from N and NW. Started the engine in the early morning after the day's beating. Arrived and anchored off a village on the eastern coast of Kailema at 6:30 A.M. the morning of the 1st. Nov. 1st- I awoke with a swollen gland in the groin, the result, I think, of the successive doses of scrub-itch I have been undergoing of late. Four of us landed (the other hunters are well); but I only remained out until noon. I found additional species here, as Mr. Cameron indicat- ed. I took a male and female (green and red) par- rot and two peculiar birds - like the crow in build- shiny blue iris, dark red. The internal structure appears unique to me; so much so that I put a couple in solution. A comparative ana-

(175) ...tologist would understand it - apparently, the wind- pipè divides just where it enters the upper dia- phragm, one branch entering the body beside the gullet and another branch convolving itself double around the outside of the ventral frame just under the skin. Upon examination other specimens of the same bird, both male and female lacked this peculiar development. One was apparently commencing, the wind-pipe having a slightly curled elongation around the region of the lower neck. The sexual organs, in all cases, were mixed - both large and small. The relative ages of the specimens were undoubtedly differ- ent. The bird is a crow, I think - a fruit-eater, known to the natives as "buli-buli." It is quite com- mon. Both the leatherneck and the large magpie or jackdaw are present, also the black "spread-tail." These three species, I believe, are omnivorous, their sto- machs showing both insects and vegetable matter. Teora brought in a fine night-hawk of a large species; its stomach showed insects and a quantity of brownish mat- ter - indicating omnivorous feeding capacity again. I returned to-day at noon with a fever. Nov 2nd. Teora, David, and Charlie ashore at 7. I am very ill and miserable - mentally depressed. The boys,

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(176) [illegible] fairly well, bring in a new bird - a sort of small dove, gray with a brownish striped breast - iris-dark brown, bill and feet, grayish. David says it feeds in low trees, or fruit, like the dove. It is entirely new to me; I call it a "flat-head". A striped-breast hawk was also brought in. The natives provide plenty of good food here. They are a scaly, lean-and-cadaverous looking bunch, all Methodists. Nov 3rd - I sent the three hunters out and busied myself with cleaning up the hold; as a result my temperature jumped up again and I spent more misery in stinking blankets. Another new one to-day - a thickhead - dark olive color, with no markings. David got the female "flat-head" or whatever it is, to match the male taken yesterday. Other species were added to. The natives brought in a fine, large snake - about 7 1/2 feet long, evidently of the "carpet" variety. In its digestive tract we found a fully grown magpie (a jackdaw) - male small, evidently only recently taken. I forgot to mention the flycatcher's egg and nest that I got on Kitava. It was in a creton behind Mr. Cameron's house. I had to keep constant look-out for the three days we were there before I

(251) I found well turning a new task as my friend, how proof I - toward beguile forward a fair page and then well one grand for the first time and then turned to camp, chief had led, work much - and so all. Funny a next and a beef to give me back myself to see it, or at our distance as in the world who now tried toward beguile stopped street bank how and then I did not know. The nature provides plenty of good food here as we a soup, lean and carbohydrate cooking in the meal. please a era for leighdale 1968 - Nov 24th behold but two wet and went do two I put there as; hold at you mindless to sleep over twice I has never to begin my enterprise as it was now before, technical mistake is present

(177) finally saw the bird, which proved to be the female of the one species of flycatcher found here - light brown with white breast. The male is a glossy blue-black with the brilliant orange mouth. A native caught one (a male) sitting on a nest; in this duty, the male apparently assists the female. Nov 4th - Sattell observed. I am still sick and poisoned and utterly black. Nov 5th - Hove up and set a course under power for Sueketa or Kiriwina, a place recommended by Cameron. We found too much foul ground and stopped to anchor while a squall passed over. In picking our way out the vessel went hard aground. She came off with a kedge-line and the engine. I had her taken back to her former position but anchored off Kiriwina in- stead of Kailema. To-day I am slightly better. No col- lecting done. Nov 6th - Teora, David, and Charlie went ashore yesterday afternoon while I was ailed. They brought back two new species - an olive-bird similar in respects to Rennell and mainland New Guinea types (Samarai); but it is

(178) larger and has a dash of white skin showing just be- hind the eye. Otherwise it is quite plain. The other a thickhead; this old friend is in a drab gray- brown plumage, quite uniform throughout. The bird I call "flat-head" in my field-book is a fruit-eater, not stomachs revealing small berries. The ground dove also favors these; the stuff grows in low trees close to the shore as a rule. The bill and feet of the mature bird are black; grayish in the young bird. It's quite tender to skin--like a gray bird. This morning (The 6th) we moved the ship around close to Kawatari, the main pose here, as possible and four of us landed. The immediate terrain is com- pletely mangroves and broken coral. We followed a path that took us eventually to the Mission outfit and the govt. station. Tracks here lead into the bush. I sent the boys out while I went to call on the A. R.M. (Assistant Resident Magistrate, although there are many more appropriate terms that fit the initials). He said, "Have you bought your permits (note the 's') to collect birds? You can't start shooting here until I see them." Hereafter I returned to the ship in a most humorous perplexity. Rogerson at Woodlark did not pull this gag; this gent did not seem to tumble to the fact that I had been shooting on Kitara and Kailuma Is., for days, for I told

(179) him we had just come from there. He said he had first taken us for a Japanese pearl poacher! Wow, this is the best government yet. We got a few good birds but the roads go mostly through gardens. David and Teresa took saw the "pulo," described by Cameron - not yet taken. There are flocks of waders here - two young yellow-legs were shot two-day, I think; and plenty of herons. The latter first mentioned to me by Mr. Lumley, a pearl-buyer here, as an "egret" in Samarai is the wonderful species that M. Lyson established what I believe to be a personal protectorate over. This is a theory. These herons are similar to the reef species of the Solomons and none of us have seen or heard of an egret yet. We shall see. The knifishier must be migratory, and in its off-season; we have seen none yet on any of the Trobriands. Nov 7 - The inaccessibility of this place is perplexing. We have to walk 2½ miles to get to tracks that lead only to gardens. The best collecting ground is swamp and melted vegetation, mangrove & broken coral - about the first place I have yet struck out here where we simply cannot get about. Bess Kitea and Kalanna,

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(180) the Marshall Bennett group and Bonvouloir group were similar but presented no patch of terrain like this NW end of Kiriwine. Four of us landed at 6:30. I had to show Mr. Rentoul my permit, which I did and he made no further enquiries or imputations. The attitude he assumed yesterday, which put me somewhat on guard, was prompted by the novelty of his being confronted in official capacity by a bird-collector with gun. I was also determined to find out about the egret, so I walked two miles further to Mr. Sumley's place. He confirmed the species presence by good description. It is probably protected, so I am mistaken about M. hyaens evidently. Charlie got one of the "pulo" birds today. It is quite striking - carmine iris, a beak like a hawk-gray and feet-gray. It is a fruit-eater and is frequently found with the Town Street white pigeons. It is shot consistently by residents for kai-kai. I want more thickheads and olive-birds, but we cannot reach them from here. These were not seen on Kailenna, which seems unusual and we penetrated bush over there. A most peculiar rat and a large insect were taken today by me. The insect life here is unusually varied. I wish I could do more in this line and others.

(181) Nov 8- Four of us landed at 7. I made a half day of it coming out on board for lunch with M. Brudo, a French pearl-buyer. I intended taking photographs and movies to-day, but rain spoiled the program as it usually does. The natives were going to dance. I took very few birds. David shot two more "pulos"-the tig fruit-eaters, and I got another olive-bird, a female in moulting. We have fair series of everything represented except the thickhead, which is certainly different, and this olive species. Small birds, excepting the honeyeaters and starlings are the most difficult to obtain. The terrain about here is a great swamp and acres of gardens and low scrub on old gar- dens. The best bush land could be reached by a march overland and a camp, which I do not con- sider worth while. Anchorage is the worst feature of the place; no deep draft vessel can get within three miles of the southern peninsula where I had originally planned to work. Nov 9- Hove anchor at 6 and proceeded out through the long passage of reefs under power and will sail. Wind to-day easterly, the first in over a week of any strength. Set our course for the Amphlett group. Ar- rived and anchored off lee side of Wamea Is., a sheer

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(182) lump of rock 1500 feet high. The highest part is densely vegetated, but in others there are great patches of grass. The rest of the little group, in plain view, show similar bald spots; some are nearly all bare. This kind of land suggests volcanic origin of a more recent date. I doubt that we find much here. Nov. 1874. Four hunters landed at 7. Although the is- land is inhabited, the bush is all for goats-sheer and precipitous, mostly blackish rock. The only trails are brief-up to gardens. We found climbing al- most impossible. I wish we had gone on at dawn to the big islands. This Amphlett group lies ap- proximately 15 miles N of Ferguson Is. at lat. 9° 15' 5'. Long. 150°-50' W. Wamea presents the only and- sage and measures about 3 miles X 2 miles. Uresi is of similar size and is very bare in appearance. Two other islands- Wawiwa and yalwaia with a dozen tiny islets complete the group. The south- emmost islet of the lot is only 4 miles from Fer- gusson. The few birds represented here will un- doubtedly be migrants, originally from the big D'Entrecasteaux Islands or from the mainland via this land chain. We took very few- crows and hawks. suckers uniform with species already taken since Woodlark. Both th glossy and gray-headed fly-

(183) catchy are present. We shot both. Starlings are plentiful - we did not take any. David contributes a small hawk. These islands especially the little ones are noted resorts of the two species of pigeons found in those parts - the gray "Koon" (Solomon) and the white "Tone Strait." I consider the group not of sufficient interest to merit a longer visit. I noticed the Tibitian swallow; I missed it somehow around Woodlark and the Trobriands. I am sure that all three of the D'Entre- casteaux islands - Goodenough (8000 feet) Ferguson (6000-7000), and Normanby of similar elevation - will offer the same avifauna without intra- variation. None of the three are separated by more than 3 miles; hence the possibility of isolation of similar species leading to remarkable differ- ces, as we found in the larger islands of the Solomon, seems impossible. Hence it should be worked as one land mass from the chief point of view of convenience. A large salt lake in- land on Ferguson might give us some water birds or a sail, so we shall concentrate on this island. One species of paradise bird occurs according to Russel - paradisaea decora. Nov- 17th Hove up at dawn in spite of its being the Sabbath.

(184) Night rain squalls but with favoring wind we passed through the Amphlett islands and stood out for Cape Labadiere the NW extremity of Ferguson Is. Rounded the point and negotiated Moresby Strait. Flocks of tern, mostly noddies about; I could discern no shearwaters. Reached anchorage at 3 P.M. in a small unnamed bay about three miles south of the strait. High land is immediate but looks too steep to offer good camping possibilities. I saw a black and white duck, new to my cognizance and a hornbill; crows, coctators, parrot, and smaller birds are seen and heard. Ferguson Is. is the central island of the D'Entrecas- teaux group with Normanby Is., to the southward and Goodenough to the north west, (Moresby Strait separating the latter is about 4 miles wide interspersed with islands. Paws son Strait, separating the former is about 5-6 miles wide) situated between Lats. 9°19'15" and -9°42'30'5, and Longs. 150°26'- and -150°57'15" W." -extract from giological report. The three are of undoubted volcanic origin, Ferguson only retaining active evidence of seis- mic activity, revealed in boiling sulphur springs, great steam vents, etc., located in the W and SW part in- land from Seymour Bay. Here is found a rather large salt lake - "Rabua." There are several others. Nov. 12- "Kara-Kara" is the name of this anchorage. It te-

(185) was raining before dawn and continued incessantly. With no sign of it alleviating four of us landed at noon. Natives had been out and informed us that there are no trails into the adjacent mountains, but that villages around at Seymour Bay will give ac- cess by tracks to both the salt lake and the high land. We all took abundance even in the half day. Of the Trochilidae ariflame we have several representatives, the dark blue

(186) four-shore between the beach and the high peaks - up to about 2500 feet - a linear distance inland if not more than two miles - very precipitous. The low land is not swampy, but very sandy until it rises where we encounter numerous patches of grass, about shoulder-high. Here, the ground is inclined to get more rocky. Natives from a nearby village bought vegetables to sell and imparted good information concern- ing Seymour Bay. Nov-13th Found shore at 7. David not too well; he was un- able to skin birds last night. By following the shore trail, he and I found good hunting ground in a sandy mangrove area of considerable extent. A new honey-sucker, a large cuckoo, another night-hawk and a duck were the prizes to-day. The duck is, perhaps, a New Guinea species - a sort of albino - white head, neck, bill and feet - iris - yellow ochre. There should be plenty around the lake. Charles got a pair of blue-headed parquets of a new sort. He put up 51 of Papua's precious pigeons to-day. The native kids are very helpful here as re- trievers. Rain every day - this and periodic malaria amongst the hunters are the chief obstacles.

(187) Nov 1472 David down with fever. Charlie, Flora, and I landed and experienced clear weather. We are concentrating on small birds. I took a new kind of honey sucker with a yellow eye-ring and a white-eared kingfisher which appears new, showing dark prussian blue back. A new ground dove with a white throat and breast; the larger species of ground dove has a white head here, which is a new variation. David ventured ashore in the late afternoon and got a very pretty new kingfisher - yellow-bill and feet and rich brown back. There are two honey suckers - the larger with the yellow ring and a smaller gray-headed short-tailed fellow. Then there is the widget, rather highly colored; the grass wren, or whatever it is; and what I believe to be a white-eye. Flycatchers are not so common; the gray-headed seem hardest to get. His call is familiar, but the glossy species offers a new chip before the typical chattering muted note. This is uttered with an upward perk of the tail and head thrust forward. The fantail tweets insignificantly and is quite common. I have not noted any song issuing from the little bird I call the "white-eye"; it only possesses the "eye-marks" of the species. As usual - the white-eared kingfisher haunts the rivers & creek mouths, the "little blue"

(1881) the mangroves; the "yellow-bill" is the land species. Heavy rain during the late afternoon. Nov-15th Rain again all day. Four hunters ashore about 9 A.M. and some success - an owl, a small night hawk, a female; and David brought in its two eggs, found laid in the sand close to the beach. He got three of the yellow-billed king- fishers. The female of this species has a brown patch on top of the head which is lacking in the male bird. Its habits emulate the "ee-ee" land kingfisher of the Solomons. It is found around gardens; I believe it nests in dead trees. We took a number of small birds, mostly the highly-colored midget, and both a long-billed (female-lacking the yellow rim about the eye) and short-billed honey- sucker. Two of the large green, yellow-throated (more a buff color) doves were taken. I have raised the flag on most of the larger birds. Practically all these have raucous calls, except the beauti- ful "Buli-tuli" with its mellow, low sort of a whinny. The "speed-tail" utters a rasping high note, perking its tail downward. Charlie down with fever this evening.

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(1891) Nov. 16th Hove up at 7 and proceeded four miles across Morssby Strait into Wood Bay anchoring close to the Mission station. Four hunters landed. The three boys kept to the shore beach. It is inevit- atly a long walk or climb into the best bush for birds. Long slopes of grass, nothy kangaroos, abound everywhere along the coast. These patches are pro- ductive of two species - a small brown bird - a wren, I call it, and the long-tailed mottled brown fellow, really a ground-runner, one of which I got on the mainland near Samarai. I climbed about 1200 feet after a two mile walk to the highest village in those parts. There were formerly plenty of bush villages up around 2000 feet but by government order they have all been moved down. The locals will help us to get up high, if we want to camp. I took about 15 small birds, all around 1000 feet - thickheads, olive birds, and yellow-head. Two species of long-tailed doves were returned - a small, prettily mottled one (iris orange), and a larger one having a glossy back and an unusu- al iris - orange with a whitish rim around the pupil. The glossy blue-black honey sucket occurs here. In fact, we have found everything here that was collected in Woodlark and the Trobriands - ex-

(190) cept the ground done. Here the more common kind shows a white-head in the mature bird; a single specimen of a white-throated species has been added. On the whole, birds are coming in slowly, hence the weather. To-day, it did not rain all the time, for some reason. An old Samoan missionary, countryman of David's & Charlie's informs, that in 1925 a collector of birds and butterflies spent some time in the D'Entrecasteaux group. He implied, he thought he was an American, but he was not sure. Nov-17 A fine day I made it until noon so that the boys could finish by night to visit their countryman. He got the yellow, blue-throated honeyeucker similar to The Solo- mans to-day. These and the long-legged

(191) age. Small species that grow on sparsely-leared trees is their food. Small birds, as expected, are similar to Ferguson I., and new species are the only addi- tions of interest. Teora took a small cuckoo, previous- ly registered from Bougainville, or like it. The call is a low, sweet whistle, repeated several times. Another tawny owl was added. Snakes of two species have been brought in and one young phalanger to-day. Insects, I am able to do little with except to pick up a few in cursory fash- ion. Birds keep us pretty busy. Our collection will not be complete, as we always tried for in the other groups visited. Our food is running short and we hunters are in our last ragged shoes. Nov-18. Saturday and another clear day. To-morrow when I plan to camp it will rain like hell, prob- ably. I tried to make some color sketches, with poor result. I'm going stale. Nov-19-23 David and I went into camp with a fine, clear sky and good weather continued through the week. We camped at 1900 feet in the same site used by the Brothers Eichorn four or five years ago, as far as I can make out from the natives. They stayed six weeks, collecting birds and butterflies.

(192) In the four days David and I put in we did not have much success. The terrain is typically steep and rocky, the only trail broken for us by the natives up creek bottoms and sheer razorback ridges. There were a very interesting variety of small birds - a small sort of thickhead, a midget parrot, a green sharp- tail finch (I surmise), a warbler, and two species of white-eyes. Of these, excepting the so-called thick- head and the white-bellied white-eye, and the warbler (of which we got only three), one representative is all we can show. The more common white-eye had an unusual iris - a pale white, instead of the usual light brown. All the other species had the typical Van Dyke brown - even the little parrot. One yellow- bird done in a new variation was included in David's bag. He got most of the single specimens - a truly wonderful hunter. A black honeycreeper in various int- eresting plumages is another addition. Invariably we found the small birds in the tops of the trees. I lost a good many. And considering their scarcity, collect- ing was most discouraging. I would go for hours without getting a bird. Of the lower altitude species, the magpie and the big, blue "buli-buli" - half-caste paradise bird are common right up to 7000 feet, the highest point reached. The thickhead and small, yellow-eared olive-bird are similarly

(193) distributed; they are the only two species of small birds that are seen near the ground-catching in- sects. The seed-eaters seek their food in the tree- tops. The brown kingfisher quawks away anywhere up the mountain. I shot a white-capped ground- dove, a prototype of the Solomons at about 3000 feet. And these are the only species I encountered. The large pigeon we heard, and, at night, owls and night-hawks. Near our camp we saw one of the "pulos" one day. Charlie took one of those lower down. It is different from the Tristrand variety. We saw not a flycatcher. I forgot the olive honey- sucker and the fantail and the blackhead. These two are also omnipresent. Right on top I missed what looked like a black fantail. Having splendid weather we worked as best we could and I am discouraged at the results. Lack of food and footgear forced us to descend. We had plenty of native kcai-kcai, but the lads on the ship are all out of meat, flour, and a few other things. I found that Charlie and Teora did well, adding several new species. I shall examine and label those to-morrow. Now it is my hope to cadge a case of meat from the Samoan missionary so we can have a look at those lakes on Fergusson, and then back to

(194) Samarai and more god-damn trouble. Nov? us have seen the decora paradise bird here on Goodenough. And only two horn-bills. The natives, who frequented our camp continually, cited the hornbill, the bited dove, the little finch and the midget parrot as rare - "one fella, one fella - that's all." David saw me bush kingfisher - similar to the one I got on the mainland near Samarai. Nov 24 Hove up at 6:30 and stood out under power for the Mission Station at the southern end of Seymour Bay - Fergusson I. Going over we grounded on a reef and spent all morning getting off. The anchorage at the Mission proved insecure and approach into the big bay with our draft is impossible. This makes the lakes inaccessible, the nearest being six miles away. The entire surrounding district - Tamalele is a thermal region with hot springs, fumaroles, sulphur pits, and the rest. There are two lakes about six miles away and these are salt. The interesting one is over ten miles overland. Ducks are reported, undoubtedly similar to the white-headed species previously taken. An expedition into the lake is out of the question: David and I and Charlie have no foot-gear that can stand anything.

(195) and the ship is out of most of the staple food. Meat and sugar we have not got. We shall go to Samarai on Monday. I had fever in the afternoon (Saturday) as the three boys went ashore and took a few birds. Teora got another large night hawk. During the camping trip, Teora and Charlie did very well, taking a crested pigeon, a large aboreal dove, and two purple ground doves - white-breasted. They reported the irides of all dark brown except the crested bird- dark carmine. The large dove looks like a ground bird but the natives say it always stays on top." Much interesting material went into the tank - rats, the large bush species, flying squirrels, and snakes. I shall ex- amine and label this collection before we ship in Samarai. A new species of small, green paroquet is on hand and the larger grey-headed bird as well. Teora succeeded in shooting one of the pheasants or ground runner - Mongy brown with long tail and talons. It is remarkable to find the "little blue" Solomon Island kingfisher here and the white-eared fellow, too, practically unchanged.

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235 1929 Jan 25th Arrived Baukara and boarded "France" at 11 A.M. Everything in good order. Teora has been laid up for over a fortnight with two ugly "New Guinea sores", one on each leg. Philip has just healed a bad one. The ship has been here since Jan 20th. The only record I can give of the vessel's activities comes from the log- The "France" sailed from Samarai on Dec 17 (Monday), David and I having departed the day before. Shortage of benzine, caused by the trip to Port Moresby, made all passages in this ven-ture slow. They arrived at Sewa Bay - Normandy Is., on Dec 18th at 5 P.M.. Here Teora and Charlie went up over 2000 feet to camp (being Wednesday). They intended to remain until Sunday - but one night's wetting sent them down the next day. Hunting was continued from the ship throughout the week-end. The vessel was shifted on Monday- Dec 24th to Dobu Island where they spent Christ-mas. Collecting was carried on here with little result until Friday, Dec 28th. On the follow-ing day the captain shifted to Salamo, the only safe anchorage on the western coast of Ferguson Is. Here Charlie and Teora went in- land to Salakahadi where a large lake is

236 located. The journey took two days; from the boys' description I should estimate the alti- tude at about 1500 feet. Many remarkable birds were taken here - shags, ducks, and a most peculiar long-toed wader. During their first night in the village dogs ran off with many of their birds; rain was another obstacle reported. They were fairly comfortable in a govt. rest-house and plenty of native food was obtainable. The actual collecting period extend- ed from Jan 4th to Jan. 11th, three days being spent in transit. The hunters worked from the ship during the first two days put in at this anchorage (Monday - Dec 31st and Tuesday Jan 1st). Collecting was resumed from the ship on Mon- day Jan. 14th until Thursday Jan. 17th. Teora con- tracted his sores in the bush and was unable to walk about. Vuga, the coal-black Ysabel boy carried on in his stead. The Captain was forced to send to Samarai for additional benzine and stores when a fortunate opportunity availed - The local mission launch making a round trip. This craft returned on Friday - Jan. 18th and on this day the "France" left Salamo and drifted under light airs to Baniara where anchor was

237 made in 14 film off the "Mosquito" Island. Here, very fortunately, the Res. Mag. from Sam araí happened to be stopping en route in the govt launch to land a patrol officer to collect taxes. He discussed my predicament with the Dist. Res. Mag. who had a letter from me regarding the licenses for my assistants, and kindly countenanced the "breach" tell- ing the Captain they could continue shooting until I arrived. I directed Atkinson (A.R.M) to hold up all collecting until I could ex- plain matters. This gracious act on the part of Mr. Lyons, who took entire responsibility, enabled Charlie and Vuga to continue shoot- ing from Monday Jan 21 until Friday Jan 25th when I arrived with David on the AV "Velimani". When I went over the collection I found that in every case without exception, the male sign ☼ had been substituted for the female sign ♀ I made sure of this as I could not help but notice that the labels were wrong. Both the Captain and Charlie made this mistake consistently from the start. I changed every one when I entered the alcins in the field book and numbered them. Also - it is important to note that

238 the description of iris color is misleading in most cases where the captain and Charlie permitted themselves the interpretation. The locality and date is correct, of course. I tried to rectify these errors as far as possible - namely, changing all the sex signs and guessing at the iris colors on occasion where I could accurately surmise from past experience examining related species - lorises, doves, kingfishers, and fly- catchers, for instance. There are about 250 skins, which include some very desirable material - the paradisea decora from Nor- manby Is. (this species was encountered on Ferguson but was not taken); they found it difficult to secure full-plumaged birds, most of the specimens being young males or females. A new edition of the nasiterna pigmy parrot was taken on Normanby; fantails, thickheads, weaver-birds, flycatchers - were found to be quite common. The unusual aquatic birds from the lake on Ferguson make me wish I had never gone to Burma. From the boys' reports they missed a good deal - grebes were reported and there should be a rail in this kind of country. The natives

239 had canoes on the lake, which helped the hunters. Camping on these islands during this time of year when it rains so consist- ently is very difficult. No trails or rest- houses. At present we have no fly but I hope to obtain something of the nature from the govt. store - the patrol officers use strips of unbleached calico which are light to carry. We are indeed the victims of malad- justment here - restricted by the government, lack of equipment, low funds, sickness, and bad weather. Again - the engine - having to make these places under sail wastes so many five days. The distances are tremendous com- pared to the short runs between islands in a group like the Solomons. The only satisfaction is that we are accomplishing something whereas, if we had gone to Sydney, we should have been unable to work and the ship-yard sharps would have appropriated the "France" for the cost of installing a new engine (which we should have to wait for - doing nothing) and overhauling the vessel. Charlie and Ulya returned at 4 P.M. of this day; the latter is evidently a good hunter. He returned a pitta among other things.

240 They have had fair success here but find the going very rough on the mainland. One goura has been taken and the king-bird reported. Considering our lack of benzine I shall push on to "Annie Inlet", closer to Samaraí where I must catch the "Montoro" in order to ship the birds.- Jan. 31st. Jan 26th. Weighed anchor and went along side the wharf to obtain water, which took most of the morning. Mr. Atkinson with great kindness lends us a case of meat to carry on with. We made our farewells after noon and got under weigh at 2 P.M. There are about 24 gals. of fuel in the tanks- so we must be content to drift along under light airs. Jan 27th. Little progress - close to Cape Free at 9 P.M. I went over the birds, remarking, and arranging. It is discouraging to find so many skins affected by mould and chewed by cock-roaches and insects. Jan 28th. Passed our objective during the night and so forced to beat back - used engine to get into Annie Inlet. Anchored

241 at 2:10 P.M. Rainy during afternoon. We did not land. Jan 29th Four of us landed. I found the coun- try comparatively barren of bird-life. Low and swampy for a mile, then the rise of grassy knolls leading to hills - wooded above 500 feet. The summits, about 2000 feet are about six miles away; the only trails lead up gorges between them. I shot another pitta and a grackle; the boys failed to return anything startling - a few doves and a kingfisher. All the birds taken to date in this Territory of Papua are low-altitude species except for those collected by David and me when we camped on Goodenough Island. Jan 30th Hove up at 6:15 and proceeded out of the harbor (Annie Inlet and Bariana are the only truly decent anchorages along the entire coast). Stopped the engine as soon as the ve- sel was clear of the passage. Made enough progress to pass East Cape, where the engine had to be used, about 2:45 P.M. Wind variable- favorable occasionally. Restarted engine at 1:30 A.M. and arrived off Samarai Is. to

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242 anchor about 3:30 A.M of the 31st Jan 31st Busy getting birds inspected and packed and shipped on the "Montour," which arrived at noon & departed at 10 P. M. This took a great load off my mind. Had a long conference with Mr. Lyons, who assured me that all complications would be straightened out. None of my permits have yet arrived. In the afternoon I took Teora and Unga to the hospital - the one, two tropical ulcers; the other, a large & painful boil on the knee-cap. Outside of these casualties all on board have kept well. Wired New York and concluded much business ashore. Feb 1-11th During this period the "France" was in- active, anchored off Samarai. I gained addi- tional information about the engine - it should be here about March 22nd. The SS "Marina" came and departed on Feb. 9th. She drew stores preparatory to our next trip; it was impos- sible to leave until the convalescent Teora has his last shot of Neo Salvarsan on Sunday, Feb. 10th. Unga was discharged on Feb. 7th

well-healed. On the 7th and 8th we landed to collect the first day on the mainland and the next on Sariba Island. We found very few birds and none desirable. All the country round about has been made into gardens or timber tracts; the bush that is reachable seems to harbor very few fruit trees—doves and pigeons are decidedly lacking. But for the common magpies, flycatchers, and king fishers—the forest is as silent as a tomb. The key to collecting on the mainland is the distribution of the flora which controls the range of birds. The greatest feeding areas are to be found in and beyond the Meles District. We can find very little of interest near Samarai; and the strong tides make the row back to the ship a mat- ter of hours. Just at present it flows just the wrong way every afternoon. The ship, locat-ed at Bellesana, about 6 miles away offers some good hunting land; but it is impos-sible to reach it unless a launch is char-tered, which is too expensive. All the boys have kept busy about the ship, polishing up details. The rigging lex-

cept for several chain-plates) is in fine order; also the sails and all tackle aloft. I informed AMNH-NY that I wished to be relieved during this summer. In his re- ply Dr. Murphy wanted to know the "conditions of the expedition"; I answered that we are "hampered by government restrictions and the existing engine - that better conditions would follow after leaving Papua about the middle of May - was there any likelihood of his joining in early June." All my diffi- culties are expounded in my last volume- nous letter, which should reach R.C.M. with- in the month. Here is a list of complaints: 1. Government Restriction The regulations as applied to me force me to break the law. I am allowed 10 of each unprotected species and 60 protected birds (all species in- cluded). No native (Polyynesians are so considered) can use a gun with- out an "Arm Permit" under the direct control of the holder (me). So if I leave the ship to extend our collecting range, directing two

245 hunters to work apart in some other district of the territory - I am overstepping the bounds of the ordinance. This I did when I took David up to Buma. Un- fortunately, I encountered a Magis- trate who queried the action which could only have been concealed by luck, and received official com- munication about it from the Govt. Secty'. Fortunately, the Magistrate at Savanai had shouldered all responsibility - so I was innocent. I should consider it a coup, if we had made a good haul in the Buma Division. Then, there was the question of "Shooting Assistant's Licenses", which had not been procured; these were officially is- sued on my application from Buma. The total cost of all licenses, Permits, etc., amounts to - £28-7-6; for a limited number of birds, which the rules make it quite impossible to secure with any degree of satisfaction.

246 The only sensible conclusion is to disregard the rules as far as possible; if the customs shop is reasonable, there is no great risk entailed. 2. Expense All expenditure has been jacked up since coming to Papua - trans- shipment of stores, customs, & govt. charges, fuel to take us the neces- sary distance, we have been forced to run - everything. Compared to our past production, the cost of collecting in Papua has not been commensurate with the results achieved. There is one satisfac- tion - had we gone to Australia for a new engine and overhaul we should have had the same long wait and probably no results whatever. Had I known the engine was to be six months on the way I might have return- ed to the Solomons; but that course would have entailed com- plications about taking the

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247 four Solomon boys employed a Goat's crew out of the group. 3. Sickness, and bad weather From December to April consti- tute, the wet and sickly season. Flux and tropical ulcers have smote us; and I have suffered definitely from a distinct mental malady - tropical depression which has undermined my energy and efficiency as a leader. Summarily - the Whitney Expedition has been maladjusted as an effective field unit during its operations in Papua. To date, that is - there may be com- pensation waiting up in the Mekes. Teora with two bad legs I left in the hospital to fully recover while we are out on this trip; when he is discharged from the hospital, he will live with a Samoan. Having drawn all stores, and com- pleted all "business" the "Franca" sailed at 5 P.M. on Monday - Feb. 17th for Tagula Is., of the Solomade Archipelago via the Cal- vados Chain, a long series of fairly high islets (up to 1000 feet) that lead up to its

248 western extremity. We shall not have time to accomplish much since the vessel must be back by March 20th to meet the steamer that will bring the engine. It will save much time and trouble if we can go alongside and have the whole works hoisted on board with the don- key engines. At sea - the night of the 11th was quiet with light variable winds and rain. We made about 20 miles. Feb. 12th Drifting all morning and forced to use the engine to keep away from the reefs around one group of small islands. A good northerly breeze put us in sight of the Conflict Group by evening - 60 miles to Tagula (Sudset Is). Frigate birds and sooty terns, sighted, but only one large flock. The collecting dinghy has been left with the Kwato Extension Inc., a Mission that indulges in boat-building among other things. Most of their contrib- tors are Americans; Rev. Abel has kindly offer- red either to repair the collecting dinghy or build one like it, which I do not have to accept, if I shouldn't like it. The can-

249 as boat sent by Dr. Murphy is hopeless for the purposes intended for a collapsible boat. It is far too heavy folded-up to be port- able and being fitted throughout with iron will last only a short life in this climate. Feb. 13th Off Cormorant Entrance at 8 A.M. which leads into the great enclosed lagoon that ex- tends sixty miles westward of Tagula Is. It is bounded on the south by a barrier of reef with occasional entrances and on the north by the peclain line of irregular, rugged Calvados is- lands - all fringed with reef, stone, and islets. This is a favorite techo-de-mer fishing ground. "Pana Tinani" (Joannet Is.), the largest measures about 10 miles EX N and 2 to 3 NX5 and lies only two and a half miles NW of Tagula. "Hemen- ahei" (Flat Is.) and "Pana Wiza" (Kaluma Is.) are close at hand to the westward across a narrow passage. "Pana Tinani" rises to 1100 feet at its eastern end, being the highest of the chain. The rest of the Calvados extend directly westward for about forty miles; six are of considerably more area than the others which are very num- erous and invariably of small individual size. The chain itself lies in the middle of a stell

[illegible]

larger body of water than that of which it forms a natural northern boundary. The Tawa Tawa Mal

251 We anchored in the lee of Abagagaheia Is at 6:30 P.M. This one is typical - a few cocoons and low scrub near the shore and the main area bald knobs and ridges of grass. The northern shores of some of the Cabrados Is- lands are reported inhabited in the sailing directions. Feb, 14th I landed for a short reconnaissance at 6:30 to see whether the island might be worth spending some time over. It proved desolate of anything beyond the ordinary in bird life. The sheu honey-sucker (female yellow & gray), white cockatoos, parrots, crows, and a hawk were the only land birds encountered. I took a young golden plaver. The dark-thrust reef heron also pre- sent. I returned about 8 o'clock. All these isles of the Cabrados Chain I believe to be unworthy of attention. Some few are densely wooded and may support enough endemic flora to harbor a variety of fruit and seed-eaters. But considering the time we have to put in among the Seychelles, it is the big land areas that should yield us returns of any interest. The Chain is somewhat like the numerous small islands in and about the Marovo Lagoon along

252 the eastern coast of New Georgia in the Solomons; there were invariably all coral base and low. The shade and soil of the Cabados is mainly volcanic, which perhaps explains the lack of vegetation; and abundant constricting and frug- ing reef. From Pana Tinani Is., right through (over fifty miles of islands of all sizes and shapes), the chain truly links up with the mainland of Tagula Is., and consequently I should not expect to find anything on them not represented on the large island. Hove up and proceeded under sail around Gigila Is., south through Uli-boma-boma pass- then Ety S. and between Wanim Is. and an unnamed islet off Pana Tinani, finally into Gold Rush Channel until Mr. Arbonin's place was located near Griffin Pt., he is the only resident on this coast and we rely on him for information about continuing along amongst these omnipresent reefs to the foot of Mt. Rattlesnake. Anchored about 6 P.M. after five quaking miles in dirty water that shadowed the foul ground. I took Mr. Arbonin's mail ashore and he informs that full tides and heavy rains have discolored the water all around Tagula. Good weather might clear it up in a few day,

253 and the new moon promises improvement. Jul. 15th David, Charlie, and Hugo ventured up a nearby river in the canoa boat (the clough has been left at Samanai to be re- paired or re-duplicated). Ashore before 7 A.M. I walked inland about five miles. The terrain all along this coast is constituted most- ly of grass country with patches of secondary bush and small timber. None of the trees are huge and there are many species of hardy wood, two or three kinds of pines, ironwoods, a peculiar kind of gum tree not found elsewhere except on Rossel Is., nearby (the gum is gathered and exported); and many other trees that are not typical of New Guinea or the D'Entrecasteaux. Indeed, the whole flora impresses one as sig- nifying quite a decided change. One should ex- pect a concurrent variation in the avifauna. However, most of the birds shot to-day are common parts of species previously taken in the D'Entrecasteaux Islands and others. New additions include a brilliant blue-headed lory (iris pale yellow), a larger type of flat- head" so-called, a gray bird with a striped breast & belly. I shot a pygmy parrot which

254 looks similar to those taken by the boys on Normandy - the iris in this specimen was white it; on reaching maturity this change to a brown, I believe. I have not yet seen a mature specimen. All the labels of the Normandy specimens are marked iris-black, which is, of course, erroneous. I shot one of a number of golden plover; there are plenty resting on these islands - feeding in the grass. I also saw one small quail - a midget species, previously taken by R.H.B. in the Guadal canal grass country. back of bush makes bird pockets, few and far between. The grass is short often leav- ing spots of open red clay soil and shale rock. The island does not go above 1200 feet in this southwestern part; the topography is rough and there are numerous streams. At present the pop- ulation numbers about 2000, supposedly on the increase - no missions and very little of the go't. The fantail here is different. Feb. 16th Three hunters ashore by 7. The cocking cam on one gun was broken yesterday. I told the boys to watch for quail; but Joel reported seeing none. I spent most of the day to no profit searching for them. Today returned

255 another "spread-tail" in young plumage. I collected several pying parrots - the iris is definitely pale brown. Therefore, some of the Normandy specimens were mismarked - either orange or black. A black honey-sucker similar to the Woodlark type was taken; and Charlie shot a female dove showing yellow under-tail feathers. The species, I think, is white-livid in the male as represented in the Bonvouloir group. The white-eye has not been heard or taken as yet, but a small olive-bird with a faint white rim around the eye occurs as in the D'Entre costeaux (iris - light brown). None of us have seen any ground birds up to date. I obtained a young possum for 4 shil- lings from a woman. The majority of the natives here live inland and are in small villages composed of a few families - agriculturally nomadic. Their loca- tion persists in spite of being ordered to move down to the coast by the govt., for con- veniences of tax collection. There are just two white men on the island for whom they work sporadically. Most of the natives make some- things out of gold-panning,

256 Feb. 17th - Sunday. Myself ashore about 5:30 again in hopes of securing quail. I flushed two and fired at both without success. One I thought I hit but could not find it in the grass. Mr. Arbour gave me breakfast. Later the captain, his wife, and I had lunch with the old gentleman. "I can run this place setting in this chair," he says, "which suits me down to the ground." Rain squalls all day. Feb. 18th Ashore before dawn after quail with similar results to yesterday: shot at two and missed both. The local boys tell me they often flush coeries of from two to six, but I have not yet seen them otherwise than singly. The boys followed me after having breakfast and brought in several good birds. The long-tail dove appears similar to the D'Entrecasteaux species. The mag-pie and fantail show variation, I think. All the avifauna of these islands, as in the case of the D'Entrecasteaux, seems to me to be dominated by the mainland of New Guinea. Duplication occurs everywhere with certain species favoring different localities. One does not encounter the intra-island variation so far-

257 as it is in an isolated group like the Solomons. Hove up at 11:30 A.M. with the sun high and reefs showing well; proceeded under power through a tortuous passage about six miles in length along the coast to Bowla Village. This place offers a track in to Mt. Rattlesnake (2800 feet). Eichorn and Week spent six weeks or so on one of its ridges - something like 14 years ago. Rothchild - Tring. We anchored off the mouth of a river at 2 P.M. I went ashore with a local boy who came with us from Griffin Pt., as "pilot" to negotiate for caniers. There are four villages close at hand on the salt water. A number of the citizens came on board at nightfall. The "councillor" (gov't representative) promised ten caniers for to-morrow morning. Feb. 19th David and I assembled camping gear (a patched & ragged fly serves as a tent) and got ashore by 8 o'clock but found no caniers on hand at Bowla, as expected. The only explanation from the councillor was - "New Guinea fashion." Fortunately, I met

258 an old man who did some work for Eichom when he camped on Rattlesnake. He imparted some extremely valuable information, which made me abandon our proposed trip. The weather during this month is unspeakably awful. The height of the NW monsoon, which blows SW here and brings nothing but rain squalls. There used to be a village half-way inland to Eichom's former camp; but that was abandoned years ago and the trail has completely grown over. I would have to take two carriers and additional bush-cutters--pro- vide food and shelter for them at a first stage camp at the old village. If the weather favored we could get on to the old camp the next day, clear the bush, and put up our tfly. In all event the carriers would have to put in another night here in order to have a day to get back to the coast. He could stay only five days and what would we get with daily wind and rain? Former experiences in such a situation make me eschew any idea of success. Eichom spent three weeks at Bowla while the track was being cleared, his camp set up, and supplies carried in. He had twelve boys with him all the time and he paid

locals to carry food up continually. Old "Jack" Tells me he employed four boys to shoot and assist him with skinning; and six collected butterflies and insects. At this time Meek was more interested in the latter. They had three tents and used over a ton of rice for their boys. It was accomplished before the Bird Ordinance; during the fair SE season; and with thorough preparation. One native has a gam about a very rare bird that Eichow failed to get; the male possesses a comb "all-a-same rooster", a golden bill and throat, and a long tail- a rather lurid description. He took a female but not the male. This creature inhabits two small hills on the slope of the big mountain; these are supposed to be impossible to climb. The natives are right about the terrain, I think; they describe it as being "very bad for walk about", which probably means shale rock and clay. Man-loving leeches are in abundance. But the cancelling feature for me is the weather alone. Two boys that I sent out to start cutting trail returned and reported the track heavily overgrown and everything "too much wet."

260 A strong dose of fever took me to bed without any supper. The boys returned a few birds the stephanac ground dove and the green-backed land kingfisher among them. Compared to what we used to put up in the Solomons our output here is ridiculous. It is better than nothing which would have represented our achievement had we gone to Australia for this engine and overhaul. Bird-collecting on the mainland and in those islands is a seasonal proposition. We can accomplish very little from the ship which is the only possible base; and the birds seem hard to obtain, probably on account of feeding conditions. The lack of big patches of bush on this side of Tagula explains a good deal; all heavy timber is on the weather coast of the island. We may be able to do better at Rossel Is., which is all wooded and supports plenty of bush villages and trails. Feb. 25th Three hunters landed early. I started out in the canvas boat to reach grass-land reported to harbor quail further down the coast but had to put back with recurring fever. Heavy rain squalls continually. The vessel dragged about 200 yards during me yesterday;

261 she had to be brought to and both anchors let go. The hunters brought back five birds. Among them a "buli-buli" or rifle bird, I suspect, having heard it described since our captures in the Trobriands and D'Entrecasteaux. With the weather attendant during the past two days a bush trip would have been a fiasco from the start. Feb. 21 All out at 6:30 in hope of getting quail. I shot and successfully retrieved one. It was my fifth try and the first that flew to offer me decent aim. Squalls of rain descended and continued intermittent for the rest of the day from about 8 o'clock on. The other collectors returned drenched with nothing about 11 except another magpie and rifle bird. Both these species appear different here - in main the size of each is smaller. The chances of the AMNH collecting on Tagula Is, again are certainly slim; it is a pity that I not the equipment, time, or weather to make a stand inland. None of our camps on the islands visited in this territory of Papua have been thorough to any degree: a week up at Goodenough, Charlie and Teora spent one night in the rain on

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262 Normanby and a week at the lake on Ferguson (about 1500 feet - above 3000 would have yielded dif- f'erent material), and the Bena Venture, The major portion of which was spent in travel. Eichom was able to wait for the favorable SE season and went to all the islands he visited well-heeled and pre- pared to stay over a month in camp on each. And he worked with no Gov't Ordnance hanging over him. Aloha. Feb. 22 The locals having reported an abundance of quail over in the extensive grass land of Yeina Is., which lies due north from our present anchor- age about 6 miles, I took all the hunters over in the whale boat, a three-hour pull with strong NW wind and intermittent squalls of rain. But our efforts were rewarded by three of the elusives - two males (one in a young plumage, much lighter than the mature in a mottled gray iris-whites), and a female ready to lay. I flushed two coeries of paired birds. Shooting was rendered difficult by the strong, gusty wind and occasional rain. David spent most of the day in a native humpy with fever. The boys tell me that the nesting bird lays, either one or two eggs - set in the short, clumpy

263 grass; sometimes they are able to capture the set- ting bird. The island measures about 6 miles X 2 and is all grass up from mangroves and coco- nut groves, rising 250 feet in two places; it is all hilly and bare except for a few lone trees, a kind of pine. Nothing else of interest. I think I heard a white-eye singing in a patch of bush; but to date I have not seen one in this group. The island harbors three villages of salt- water citizens who survive with hordes of mosquitoes and sand-flies. At present they live on sago and bananas and some fish, taro and yams not be- ing due for three months. We sailed back across to the ship in jig time with the strong wind. Feb. 23 Two hours pulling up two foul anchors, a testi- mony to the unsheltered state of this coast. With- out the protecting reef we should have been a wreck. Finally under way about 8 o'clock with a fair wind. This increased in strength during the day with rain squalls, and overcast, murky sky. Noddies, sooties, and sunmatras about; the latter nearer the land. One blinding squall that whipped the sea white came upon us off the weather end of Roscel and drove us at

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264 about 8 knots. Lucky we were running before it. The velocity of the wind increased as we began run- ning past the island. Not locating Yela Gili, our desired harbor, by 4 P.M. we took refuge from the weather in behind the big breaking reef; two fishing luggers at anchor called the pas- sage to our notice. It was a night of wind and rain. Feb. 24 - Sunday Weather still foul from the NW. Spent the day snugly riding it out. I found some natives ashore who gave us the location of the place we are seeking. A few miles further on - still to leeward, thank Heaven. Feb. 25- Under way by 7 A.M. Anchored at Yela Gili harbor at 8:30. Four hunters ashore until 5 P.M. In spite of the heavy rain from noon on we managed to get about 30 birds. Several new species appear- the white-eye again, white-bibed thickhead, and the gray-backed flycatcher. A new long-tailed kingfisher occurs; I remember one similar taken in young plumage on the mainland. A new gray thickhead was brought in; and a smaller kind of "lesser" thickhead, which we have found elsewhere. Small birds are apparently in good numbers; no crows,

265 no large parrots. The blue "koon" Sol. Is. pigeon and the brown fantail occur as old friends. Everyone in the field to-day got a thorough soaking, which with the wind made it unpleasant. Rossel Is. is the smallest of the three main islands of the Louisiades - 20 miles EX W and 10 (ap) miles NX S. Its terrain is quite different from the rest of the group, supporting no grassland; the interior is rocky, well-drained, and densely wooded - more like the islands of the Solomons than any I have yet seen in this territory. The flora strikes one at once when coming here from Sudest. Orchids and other flowers are said to grow here that grow nowhere else. The fauna should follow suit. M. Eichorn collected here over 12 years ago, putting in about 6 weeks during the fair-weather SE season. From camp he collected up to the 2700 foot summit. I am not prepared to make a camp here during such beastly weather. Simply try to get as high as possible and down again from the ship. Feb. 26- Four hunters ashore at 7 and back at 3 P.M. after another terrible day of wind and rain. Plenty of birds, however - Ulua, the Solomon key, is

266 a star hunter. A number of the racket-tailed kingfishers were taken to-day. Small birds are found more easily in the lowland around the river are white-eyes, mudjets, flycatchers, an olive honey-sucker, and a tiny sort of wren. There is not much variety here and most of the species are represented elsewhere. I am quite content that we are safely anchored in shelter; this is the longest stretch of stray NW weather they have seen here in years. The population of the island is estimated at 1200 and most of them are on the other side. The villages consist of only two or three houses harboring family communities. Mr. Osborne here is the only white resident. Feb. 27- Four of us ashore again to be drenched in a blinding squall before landing up the river. Rain all day: The boys returned about 20 small birds. This weather is nothing else but shocking. I have been concentrating on white-eyes and the small grey thickheads, which appear to be the only certain new editions. Practically all the birds have been taken around the river flat in secondary bush between or rather among the heavy showers.

267 Feb. 28th Similar program as yesterday. We landed just in time to get caught in a heavy squall. Nothing new returned to-day. The land "ee-ee" kingfisher seems to show considerable variation from Solomon types; here, there is only one size. Only two species of long occur - the common red and black which frequents the coconuts and the blue-headed chep. No larger parrots except the white cockatoo, which has not yet been taken. The honeycuckor is represented in only one type and similarly the fantail. On the whole a great paucity compared to Tagula Is. March 1st The bad weather broke to-day and we had a decent time in the bush. But no astounding results. David very ill with malaria all day. I climbed to about 2000 feet but saw nothing new. The yellow thickhead is more common above 1000 feet. I heard the white-tib dove but saw none. What few avian forms Rossel does contribute show decided variation from Tagula. Considering the time remaining and the distance we are from Samarai I shall not attempt a camp here. It is questionable whether I should get anything new with a

268 maximum altitude of only 2700. This is about the same as Tagula. Eichhorn, from what I can gather was after insects principally in the Solisiades, collecting birds as well; the former would require a longer stay with thorough investigation of the high land. I feel certain that a camp on Tagula at Mt. Rattle-snake would have yielded a great deal. Had the vessel been anchored at Bowla during the past week which has seen the height of this foul NW season, she would have gone on the beach. It has been no sure-thing here on the lee side of Rossel in a well-protected bay—and the big anchor down with plenty of chain in 2½ fathoms. March 2— Three hunters ashore until noon. I took a few photographs. Shortage of people both here and on Tagula offers little in this line. Finished the birds in the afternoon. Mr. Ostome came on board for dinner. March 3—Sunday The captain busy completing a survey. I became seized by some strange new malady during the afternoon. Weather fine.

267 March 4- Afore up about 9 A.M. and proceeded clean of reefs setting sail, if possible, for Misima Is., the third of the Solimade group. Made about ten miles with southerly wind. Fell calm toward evening. March 5-6 Becalm'd. Light winds at night. We grounded on the famous Rossel Is. reef on the night of the 6th and kedged off very lucki- ly by quick action; fortunately the engine started and took the vessel clear. March 7-9 Wind southerly helping us toward Samarai. I have given up all idea of visiting Misima because of lack of time. Very few sea-birds about. Anchored in Hoop-Iron Bay - Basilaki Island for the night of the 9th. March 10th- Weighed anchor at 8 A.M. and made Samarai by 4 P.M. The new engine came on the Matoro about two weeks ago - much sooner than anticipated. Found Teresa with healed sores ready to leave the hospital to-morrow.

(326) January 1-1930 Had an early morning row with Manuel and David who came aboard drunk and unable to work.For the nth time all hands are dissatisfied and wish to leave.It would be best to pay them off,especially in view of advices from NY to economize.They expect a raise of three pounds each,all having been on five since June-1928.Four of us can run the ship with a captain,cook,and three Solomon Islanders. No work done to-day. Ms"Carriso"of San Francisco arrived at 8 A.M. Weather fine and clear. January 2 My last radio was dispatched to NY on December 23rd and in very urgent terms.No reply yet.I go to the post office or station daily.Lack of funds is the only reason we have not left port,the ship having been ready for sea since the above date;nor can I do any collecting in the immediate vicinity until I receive some definite news. I spent some time on board the"Carriso".Captain Drummond will take the New Guinea "tree-climbing kangaroo"for shipment to NY via Portland,Oregon. Crew employed painting and puttying. Weather fine and airy. January 3 A radio came at II o'clock this morning but contained no mention of money. I took"Peter",the "kangaroo",over to the"Carriso";additional shipment includes all the Choiseul birds,the blackfish skeleton,shells,a keg of miscellaneous material in solution,and considerable mail.This will reach Honolulu in a month's time.The ship sailed at I P.M. Crew variously employed,mostly painting.It is getting difficult to find work for them.Expenses are mounting up and nothing to show for it. Rain storms and sultry heat. January 4 I sent a reply to NY at 7 A.M.this morning. The Gov't.Medical Ship"Hygeia"is proceeding to Kira-Kira, San Cristoval to-morrow and will be back about the I2th.Captain Elder very kindly suggested the opportunity of picking up Mayr,Coultas,and Eyerdam.It will be effected at considerable saving.Meanwhile I can do some work locally. I had to get permission from my numerous creditors to leave Tulagi.I gave them sworn evidence that funds will arrive from NY before the steamer leaves for Sydney on the I4th. Weather hot and sultry.Glass falling. January 5 I acquired some stores for the men at San Cristoval.These,together with some beer and their mail went on board the"Hygeia"in care of Captain Elder.This gentleman has assisted me on many previous occasions and is always ready with any kindness he can offer.The vessel sailed at 9 A.M. Now preparing the"France"for sea.I shall visit Buena Vista Is.,north of Ngela(Florida)which possesses tracts of grassland unlike anything else in the group.On Guadalcanal,the only other island not mainly bush,the grass is different,being high and coarse,a kind of"kangaroo". Returning,we can spend a day or two collecting on the east coast of Florida Is.,itself and navigate the Mboli Passage.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(327) Started the motor at 2 P.M. and the vessel proceeded along-side Carpenter's wharf for water.Mr.Scrymgour,the local manager,very kindly allows us access to two big tanks.Finished with 250 gals. on board by 5 P.M.Restarted motor after having had to fix two leaky joints in the circulating cylinder-jacket line.Anchored in mid-harbor at 5:30 ready to leave in the morning. Weather fine but very hot. January 6(Sunday) Hove up at 8:30 A.M.and proceeded out of the harbor under power.Outside we altered course for Buena Vista and pulled up the sails to catch a light southerly breeze which soon fell away.Used the motor all the way for this 20-mile run,averaging a little better than five knots. Found good shelter in a rather large curved bay on the southern side and anchored in 10 fathoms;quite convenient to shore where grassy slopes and knolls are interspersed with secondary bush and timber Three small settlements of Florida natives were seen in the vicinity of the bay. It was extremely hot to-day but cooled off nicely at sundown. January 7 Charlie,David,and I left the ship early.We were ashore all day and collected two birds of interest- the black-knobbed variety of the large fruit pigeon and a black cuckoo(Eudynamis).It is a new locality for both species.The pigeon was collected on Rennell Is.,and reported by David on Nissan Is.,T.N.G.It is the first time I have encountered the black cuckoo in this vicinity.Its distribution through the Solomon group is undoubtedly general. Buena Vista Is.,just 3mile N.of Florida is about 5 miles in extent ExW with a deep horseshoe bay on the southern side.Over half the terrane is tufty grassland with sparse ironwood trees,low saplings and bushes.This offered rather rough walking.Forest and secondary bush are found behind the foreshore in many places extending to the tops of the ridges.All the stream beds I saw were dried up except a few that seep into shaded lowland pools;in these I collected three species of freshwater shells.Saw two separate nests of hawks,probably the same species. Both were built in the tops of tall dead trees.I saw two large eagle hawks circling about and one perched close to a nest on occasion. Returned to the ship at 4:30 P.M. Very hot all day. January 8 Three hunters ashore at 7:30 A.M.I took one of the new boat's crew with me to investigate the nest I saw yesterday.We saw no hawks about and after a difficult climb found no eggs.The nest was built of sticks laid in the highest crotch of the central branch and measured about three feet across.It was littered with fish bones and showed no sign of recent occupation. I think it is the nest of Haliaster indus (white-headed fish hawk)rather than the big Aquila. I found no birds inhabiting the grass country.David returned another black cuckoo.I can secure a few more specimens of Mino dumontii (one Nov.Zool.by Dr.Hartert reported lack of specimens from Florida Is.) All on board by 1 P.M.when we hove up and proceeded under power out between Buena Vista and Florida Is.,and along the northeast coast of the latter using foresail and jib to advantage. No seabirds sighted.Anchored in Mboli Harbor at 5:45 (Sioto-headquarters of Anglican Mission).Rev.Tempest visited us in the evening. Weather fine and clear.Overcast at night.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, Sc.D. H. E. GREGORY Ph.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B.

(328) January 8 Hove up at 6 A.M. and proceeded under power with native pilot to more convenient anchorage. At 6:10 under his expert direction we grounded on the only patch of reef he could have put us on if he tried. I sent Charlie, David, and Teora ashore with guns. The rest of us worked until the afternoon to get the ship afloat although she struck very easily and only seemed to be just touching the soft coral on the false keel under the bluff of the bow. Rev. Tempest passed in his launch en route through the passage to Tulagi- did not speak. The vessel came off easily with the rising tide. We then spent two hours retrieving kedge anchors and heaving in ship's anchors both of which were in use. Motor used considerably. Anchored in passage about 3 PM. The missionary returned at 5 P.M. and stopped to report no radios for me in Tulagi. The hunters collected several common species which were put up. Rain intermittent during afternoon and evening. NW wind and falli[illegible] ling barometer. January 9 10 Hove up at 8 A.M. and proceeded under power through the Mboli Passage arriving at Gavutu (opp. Tulagi Harbor) about 11 o'clock. Had a repair job done on a leaky fuel filter, which developed during the morn- ing's run. The blacksmith made a stock for the port anchor; this has been missing since we left Tulagi. We left Gavutu at 4:30 and anchored in Tulagi by 5:00 No radios for me. No collecting done. Rain squalls during night from the northwest. January 10 11 No radios during morning. I worked most of the day on the motor, taking down a bearing and polishing the shaft. Discovered another iron to brass connection in the sea-cock which had to be replaced. Crew employed variously. No collecting done. Weather squally from NW. Heavy showers. January 11 12 Received a radio from NY which evidently approves the Caro- lines as the next collecting field. No mention of money in the message. This has been one of the worst delays I have experienced. At least, there has been a field party at work and something accomplished. SS "Duranbah" came in at 4 P.M. Capt. Crookshank reported the three men at San Cristoval returned from the mountains with good results. They were well and about to leave on the AV "Hygeia". Charlie and David ashore collecting but with little success on account of the rain. They returned six mynas and reported hearing the big cuckoo (Centropus). The "Hygeia" tied up after experiencing a breakdown in the worst kind of weather. Mayr, Coul tas, and Eyerdam spent the night on board. I was unable to meet them, having gone over to Makambo to talk to Capt. Peterson who knows a bit about the Marshalls and Carolines. Heavy weather from the NW and SW. Thick squalls and heavy rain. January 12 13 Mayr, Coul tas, and Eyerdam disembarked early this morning. Their collection is excellent and includes several unusual forms. Dr. Mayr is intent on leaving the "France" now for many reasons. After lengthy discussion his attitude changed and he is probably still with us. The radio from NY yesterday arrived just in time.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGIST NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B. [illegible]

(Jan.12-cont.) No collecting done. Weather clear for three hours followed by black rain squalls from the NW. January 14 Everyone busy preparing mail for the steamer that leaves for Sydney on the morrow.I could not get a message through to the Bank of NSW until this morning.It is necessary for me to get tacit assurance by cable that funds have been received before I can arrange for the crew's discharge and transportation.The Museum might have mentioned money in their recent radios;with definite assurance to hand that a remittance had been sent I could have had the four Polynesians paid off and ready to leave to-morrow. Everyone agrees that the four boys in question will have to go.I waited until the field party returned to talk it over with them. An expensive crew at this time is impossible despite their value as hunters and bird preparators.David is the only one I tried to talk into remaining and I thought I had succeeded until he got off with the rest who changed his mind for him.All want to go to Noumea-New Caledonia to seek employment as sailors.This will be cheaper than sending them to their homes(Samoa and Tahiti)as agreed,provided the governments are will- ing. Charlie and David spent the day ashore collecting and brought in a good specimen of the yellow-legged Columba(previous examples from Bougainville and Choiseul Is.).I noticed in a specimen of the blue- backed("kaloproktos")kingfisher a white spot on the back which is a variation from the usual form taken on the islands to the northwest. Weather improved to-day but still gusty and overcast. January 15 Fortunately the radio I was hoping for came through from the Bank of NSW giving assurance of money.I received it at 10 A.M.,which gave me only one hour to make arrangements with the government and Burns Philp.The boys were all ready and since everyone was anxious to see the last of them,we managed with considerable rushing about.I did not have time to pay them off but shall send postal orders to Noumea. It will prevent them spending their wages in Sydney. The difference in fare between Noumea and Samoa or Tahiti is considerable. No collecting done. Weather clear during morning but rainy later. January 16 Sent communication off to NY giving particulars of the expe- dition's financial status.I am forced to spend the money just cabled to Sydney and find myself still nearly 700 pounds sterling in debt. This hardly takes into account salaries on board the vessel.To proceed to the Carolines the expedition must be out of debt and two or three thousand dollars in hand at least. Dr.Mayr cabled Berlin that he cannot leave without permission from NY and that he wishes to work in the Carolines.It is improbable that he will leave now.We might be able to return to America together in July or August of this year. The next thing is to get out of this port for Malaita. No collecting done.Others busy checking their San Cristoval birds. Weather rainy and overcast. January 17 Engaged another Santa Cruz native as a sort of engineer's mate.We have five boys forward now- Aravo,Tivo,two"Jackies",and the

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNUAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(330) latest,Loaba;each at one pound a month and a parallel economy in their rations bill. I continued repair work on the semi-rotary water pump in the galley. Took down after main bearing of motor to inspect shaft and found it very dirty and rusty. Salt water has again found its way into the lub- ricating system through small leaks in the circulating water connections which are right over the bearings. All main bearings will have to be dis- mantled and cleaned. At work all afternoon. Mayr, Coultas, and Eyerdam busy labelling and packing birdskins. No collecting done, Weather fine throughout. January 18 At work all day on the motor. Others packing birdskins. I talked over my position as leader with the other members of the expedition and decided it is best for me to relinquish the offi- cial leadership to Coultas. I do not like to do this with the current condition of finances and for this reason only. But with running expenses kept down as low as they are at present I am sure we can pay all bills before leaving the Solomons in two or three months time. The most import- ant responsibility of the leadership is the financial one, especially at this time. All of the staff are to have a proportionate degree of juris- diction in the field work. This change will go into effect to-day. I shall move my quarters into the cabin beside the engineroom as soon as I can. The Chinese cook, Leong On, has not returned for duty since Jan. 15th and has been put down as a deserter; a redeeming feature is that he worked a fortnight for nothing. Aravo, a Guadalcanal native now doing the cooking. Crew employed variously. No collecting done. Weather fine and clear; no wind. January 19 Continued work on motor. Others labelling and packing speci- mens. Eyerdam has taken his shell collection ashore for storage in a Chinaman's shed which allows considerably more room in the main hold. No collecting done. Weather fine. January 20(Sunday) Worked most of the day on the motor. I am very slow but it is instructive. Others still packing specimens. No collecting done. Weather fine but rain during night. January 21 At work on the motor. I could not accomplish much in the morn- ing on account of rain. The San Cristoval specimens and the balance of the Choiseul collection are ready for shipment by the "Marsina" on Feb. 2nd. Chang Cheong, the Chinese carpenter came along to discuss the payment of his bill. Tivo, a Santa Cruz native recently hired, left to-day: no notice no pay. Intermittent rain continues. No collecting done. January 22 Took a large case of specimens over to Burns Philp for ship- ment. This clears the vessel of collected material. The manager was not in, therefore I could not discuss the cash loan which must be raised to en- able us to get away. I am well-known in this capacity here; now Coultas will have to learn to wear the cloak gracefully. No collecting done. Weather unsettled with occasional showers. January 23 Failed to get away to-day due to a pump jamming at the last

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(331) minute, which meant that a whole series of connections had to be taken down to adjust it. The present wage bill on the ship amounts to 4l pounds a month (not including the pay of the collecting staff). Mail for Auki and Su-u, Malaita came aboard from the Post O. No collecting done. Squalls of rain and NW wind all day January 23 24 Started the motor at 6 A.M. and the ship proceeded to Carpen- ter's wharf for fresh water. I found the manager of Burns Philp, Mr. Scott, in his office at Makambo and raised a cash loan of forty pounds, which I turned over to Coultas. From this I sent postal orders covering the wages due the four Polynesians to Noumea. So much of the remainder went in paying small bills about town that I had to get another five pounds, this time from W.R. Carpenter & Co. We cast off at 1:20 after lunch and proceeded to Gavutu where we tied up at the wharf. A small bill was paid and Coultas made a few purchases. We spent the night at the wharf much against my will because of former experience with rat invasion. No collecting done. Weather fine. January 24 25 Additional work on the motor did not let us get away until 10:30 A.M. Proceeded through the Mholi Passage under power and anchored off Sieto. We could not make the run across to Auki before dark and the old captain does not like spending the night at sea. This forebodes trouble both for him and for the expedition. I worked on the motor until dark; one of the pumps giving trouble. No one went ashore collecting. Mosquitoes joined us after dark. Light rain squalls during night. January 25 26 Started motor and vessel under weigh by 6:30. Cleared reefs and course shaped for Auki. Small flocks of noddies seen en route. Set head- sails and foresail to take helping northerly breeze. Anchored in Auki harbor before lunch. Capt. Burrell took the mail ashore. Worked on motor replacing a broken stud on air-charging valve. We have to interview the District Officer before we can do any collect- ing on Malaita. This is the first time the govrnment has made such a stip- ulation; but this is Malaita. Mr. Wilson, the govt. officer, refused invitation to dinner. Many natives from Auki Is., came aboard including Paulo and Wai Rong, Capt. Crookshank's servants who worked in the cabin and galley for us while he was with the expedition. Eyerdam ashore after shells. No other collecting done. Overcast sky with showers during afternoon and evening. January 26 27 (Sunday) Worked on the motor until 10 A.M., when Mayr, Coultas, and I went ashore to discuss our intentions with Mr. Wilson OHMS. He almost alarming- ly pessimistic about the Ari-Ari natives in the vicinity of the big range in South Malaita; and would not give us "a fifty-fifty chance of getting out alive". These people live only for suspicious hatred and treachery which keeps them in constant fear of anything foreign. "Why would they miss such an opportunity to destroy a few white men?" These sentiments do not jibe with what I have heard from more reliable sources. However, he expects to be relieved very shortly by Mr. Barley, who is a sensible gentleman. Meanwhile we smilingly agree with Mr. Wilson and he even accepts an invitation to lunch. The settlement on Auki Is., which numbers 150 people and is the

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B. [illegible]

(332) largest of the fortified island villages in the Langa Langa Lagoon, is commencing a kind of New Year's festival to-morrow. Bushmen are coming down and there is to be feasting on pigs and vegetables, dancing, and the shark-feeding ceremony. I continued work on the motor during the afternoon. AK "Auki" arrived with Mr. Barley on board. Eyerdam ashore after shells but no other collecting done. I have heard the black cuckoo (Ludynamis) several times. Weather rainy and overcast. January 27, 28 (ex-Kaiser's birthday) Dr. Mayr and Eyerdam ashore with one native. I finished off work on main motor and tried to fix the water pump in the galley which again refuses to function. Coultas remains on board having an open sore on one [illegible] Hunters returned at noon reporting secondary bush country with very few birds; a common snake, a frog, and one phalanger brought in. During afternoon we all attended the beginning of the festival on Auki Is., which is to last three days. These people are heathen but the pristine quality of the dancing is marred by the wearing of calico, felt hats, etc. It proved too darkly overcast to do any photography. Uncertain weather with northerly wind and rain. January 28, 29 Eyerdam and I ashore at 6:30. I returned at 9:00 with a few specimens in order to make some photographs on Auki Is., both still and motion picture. All hands returned on board for lunch. Coultas and I con- tinued with photography during afternoon until 4 P.M. Mayr putting up birds. We have not noted much subspecific variation yet. The much-touted shark-feeding episode proved rather uninter- esting: the offal derived from the slaughter of pigs was thrown into the water from the built-up walls of the village and several sharks came along to devour. There were a half dozen small fish or reef sharks and only one large one (about 3 feet long). We watched an interesting dance which was followed by a community feast of baked pig. All hands putting up birds until suppertime. We paid another visit to the official residence to discuss the possibilities of an in- land camp in South Malaita. The presence of Mr. Barley and Major Sanders, who is in charge of police here, altered the attitude of the govt. as previously expressed by Mr. Wilson. We were advised to go in from the Su-u side, proceed slowly, and get out on any intimation of trouble. This is quite fair; and shows Mr. Wilson to be an alarmist. We returned aboard to help Eyerdam finish the birds. Fine during day with some rain at night. January 29, 30 Lost air starting motor, so hove up and proceeded out under sail with light favoring wind that died about 10 A.M. I worked all day trying to start the auxiliary compressor engine without avail. Under sail all day wind falling away completely at sundown. A land breeze from the hills gave us a good lead during the night. A few terns sighted. Weather clear and fine. January 30, 31 Vessel hove to off Su-u about 1 A.M., drifting in a calm sea. I took the wheel at 6 A.M. when we were 8 miles off the land, beating in with the land breeze. I got the compressor running about noon but we were anchored by 1 o'clock. The entire Malayta Co., staff came off to visit us: G. Adams, Mr. Aldington, the manager, and Messrs. Wilson, Archer, Speers, and Ralston. At work on motor all afternoon. No one ashore collecting. Everyone attended at dinner with the manager.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. G. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, Sc.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.Sc. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B. [illegible]

(333) AK"Ruana"left for Tulagi at II P.M.taking all our mail which is to catch the"Marsina"for Sydney.In this NY will receive full exposition of our financial situation.We have been short of funds since leaving Samarai in July-1929 but I cannot make NY aware of it. Weather continues fine. January 3I Mayr,Eyerdam,and one native ashore early.I remained on board to take the ship alongside the wharf where we filled up with fresh water.I dropped an essential part down into the bilge where anything is unretrievable and spent the rest of the day trying to make a replacement.Unable to use motor.The ship had to be kedged out to an anchor. Hunters returned early.with some subsp.nov.,Zosterops and Myzomela certainly;four other species of wide distribution.Worked on birds at night.Three men from ashore came off to dinner. Weather fine all day;rain and thunder storms from NW during night. February 2 Mayr,Eyerdam,and one native ashore until 3 P.M. I worked on motor finishing rough manufacture of new part. Put up birds from 4 o'clock.New subspecies collected to-day include a representative of the black fantail(Rhipidura)and Domicella;Monarcha menadensis and Myzomela common hereabouts in the lowland forest;the representative of Trichoglossus appears to be smaller on Malaita. AK"Veronica",a govt.ship,arrived at noon.Major Sanders,in charge of police here, on board."Whisky",the headman at the local village,has been consulted about carriers for the latter part of next week. The Major promises his assistance if we have difficulty. Mr.McCrimmon,who cuts local timber here for a livelihood,says the natives on the western slopes of the range inland from Su-u are scattered and quite harmless. Weather fine with some rain during night. February 23 (Sunday) Worked to finish motor in order to start hunting to-morrow. Mr.Aldington,the manager,took the keys of the company's shop to Tulagi with him the other evening,so I could not accomplish what I had hoped to. We visited ashore in the evening. Mainly fine but some showers in the afternoon.Barometer low. February 34 Ashore all day with others.I followed the Kwairiekwa river for some distance and passed through two gardens 3 or 4 miles inland but saw no natives.The terrane is moderately rough covered with forest trees and the usual dense undergrowth;undulating ridges flank the river bottom,rising to 500-800 feet in increasing elevation father on.The Kwairiekwa is a main lead to the big range of mountains;and was used by the trans-Malaita punitive expedition last year.The soil is particularly rich on the hill slopes;noted abundance of reddish clay and some serpentine rock formation. I collected a Micropsitta(subsp.nov.),Grauculus lineatus ,and several small birds,all fairly common.Was unsuccessful in obtaining examples of the two larger species of flycatchers,both undoubtedly new representatives; did not hear any thickheads calling,they are probably at a higher elevation.I met several pigs in the bush which appeared to have strong domestic strain.Obtained some insects and one green lizard. Other collectors returned numerous birds.We worked late preparing them. Some rain during day but fine at night.

IN RE WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(334) February 4/5 AK"Ruana"returned from Tulagi this morning which meant that I could use the engineering shop.I remained onboard to work on the motor. No mail brought back for us. Three local natives out shooting with Eyerdam and numerous common birds collected: We worked late on the specimens. Clear during morning;some rain later and at night. February 5/6 Ashore collecting only part of the day.Spent the rest of my time in the engine-room. Three natives out shooting along with Mayr and Eyerdam.Three new representatives returned:Monarcha"arses"(blackhead)and Aplonis grandi,the large starling;a small grey and black Edolisoma("pseudo-montanum")also appears different.The larger graybird(Edolisoma schisticepa)evidently does not vary. Weather unsettled and rainy;storms making up from the NW. February 6/7 Intermittent rain all day.I finished work on the motor and greased bright parts for lay-up.Spent most of the day moving into my cabin forward. Eyerdam and four natives ashore shooting with good results.Two species of Ptilinopus taken,both of wide distribution throughout the group;only one kingfisher so far-Halcyon chloris.Chalcophaps stephani is common along wooded coraline foreshore. Worked on specimens during afternoon and evening. Rain at night and wind from NW and WNW. February 7/8 Ventured ashore but failed to cross the Kwairiekwa in flood to get inland.Returned to ship very wet.Eyerdam and four natives collected a few birds.The native shooters have taken to the collecting well after a few day's trial.We are filling the series of common species before making a camp. Worked during afternoon and evening skinning birds. Heavy rain during night with strong NW wind. February 8/9 Rainy all day.Four natives ashore with Eyerdam.Birds to skin on board morning,afternoon,and evening. Vessel straining at her anchor in heavy swell. Heavy rain and NW squalls during night. February 9/10 (Sunday) The ship dragged her anchor during squalls and close to shore at daybreak.Started motor and hove up to shift to safer and more comfortable position. Two natives out shooting despite bad weather but with rather poor result.One Eudynamis cuckoo returned in juvenile plumage.I went out with Eyerdam to examine nest of the common rail or coot(Porphyrio) It was made in the branches of a low tree not more than 15 feet high, the upper part covered with vines and leaves.The nest was 6 feet above the ground and well constructed out of small twigs and liana.It was well concealed although located just off a much-used native track.The sitting female must have been disturbed often;Eyerdam frightened it off the nest on two occasions.The clutch contained five eggs which were taken.An overcast sky and the position of the nest shaded by overhanging vines and leaves made a photograph impossible. February 10/11 Heavy weather continues from the NW in intermittent driving

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(334) 335 rain squalls. Eyerdam and four natives ashore collecting for about six hours. There are always birds on the table to be prepared; the Polynesian skimmers are missed in this department. A small pigeon was brought in which Mayr insists on calling "Ducula dubia"; I consider it a young rubri-cera or possibly a variant. Continuous rain during night. February 12 Bad weather still holds out. Overcast sky with wind and rain from NW and NWxN. Four natives were given guns for the day. Eyerdam also out collecting; his interest in shells alone would never permit him to remain on board. Results very good considering the weather; but many of the specimens are badly shot or wet. We are kept busy putting them up; the series of common species are filling up. There is not a great number of different species; so far, we have found nothing absolutely unique. About 300 skins from Malaita up to date. Heavy rain all night. February 13 Headman "Whisky" and carriers refused to leave this morning. Mayr and I had expected to get off on a reconnaissance trip inland. Four native collectors out returning some 38 specimens, mostly common. Eyerdam doing carpentry work. Rainy all day in the usual gusty squalls from the NW. February 14 After preparing gear Mayr and I left about 10 A.M. with a dozen carriers. We crossed the first ridge at about 2000 feet and descended to cross a stream. On the opposite side the land rises to over 3000 feet. The carriers refused to go on although we could have easily made it before dark. Mayr and I took a bath while two boys went out to secure a pigeon for supper. One of them shot a fine female Accipiter albogularis. We collected numerous insects some of them apparently most unusual. Busy putting up specimens at night. Our present elevation is 1600 feet. Weather fine and clear. February 15 On the way early and crossed the stream at 1100 feet. We soon reached the highest village on the opposite slope which proved to be 1400 feet only. The locals say there is no water higher up and we must hunt from here. Mayr undertook to make a good camp while I ascended the mountain to see what elevation I could get and what new birds, if any. Two natives left for the coast taking a communication down to the ship. I started about 1 P.M. and climbed to 3400 feet (by aneroid). I found true mountain forest and the ground very rocky. Collected thickheads, white-eyes and flycatchers but neither saw nor heard a single new species. There is only one really high range on Malaita which is in the vicinity of Mt. Kolovrat (Ad. chart or Govt. map); we must make a camp on its slopes to get the mountain birds. I found one man living with his family at 2400 feet but he would not welcome any hunting in this section because all his pigs, running about wild in the bush for some time. Returned to camp by 6 o'clock. Put up birds after supper.: Weather fine and clear. February 15 Mayr and I decided to get out while we have the carriers. There are no tracks that lead farther inland and the hills do not seem

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, Sc.D. H. E. GREGORY Ph.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(335)-336 to be high enough for mountain birds. We packed up and started early. On the road we met a native with the Mataram mail and a letter from Coultas. There is an anxious letter from Burns Philp and much data con- cerning the four Polynesian natives recently sent to New Caledonia. It appears that their identification papers were left in Sydney and the French Customs will not allow them to remain. Mayr has received news from Berlin that urges him to leave the expedition as soon as it is convenient. We reached the coast about 2 P.M. SS "Mataram" anchored in the harbor. Mayr and I discussed his situation, and I dispatched a radio to Dr. Stresemann-Berlin, "Mayr indispensable. Hope for your agreement." I also wired the British Consul in Noumea in effort to pacify the French auth- orities until I can get some official word through from Tulagi. I was busy writing letters aboard the steamer until 1 A.M. All specimens collected up to the beginning of this week were shipped on this steamer numbering about 350 from Malaita. Steamer sailed at 2 A.M. No collecting done. Fine weather continues. February 16/7 (Sunday) Mayr has decided definitely to leave us. I spent the afternoon getting the motor ready for the trip into Tulagi. Had another heated argument with the captain. I made a ter-i bad rible mistake in him; and have decided that he is the most disagreeable and inefficient man we could have selected. Hove up at 10:30 P.M. in heavy rain. The captain set the course WxS before the vessel had cleared the land so that we nearly struck the northern point of Kwairieka bay. On watch all night in the engine-room. Set headsails and fore- sail during night. Showers of rain and variable easterly wind. February 17/8 Weather cleared up toward daybreak. We anchored in Tulagi harbor at 8:40 A.M., ten hours from Su-u. Mayr went ashore to dispatch a radio to the Director of the Berlin Museum, signed by himself "Tulagi radio inadequate. Will leave im- mediately if you advise Reply." I spent the day getting advice through to Noumea about the discharged Polynesians. After much fretting, Capt. Kidson, the Govt. Sect'y., sent the following to the British Consul at Noumea: "___ two Samoans, ___ two Tahitians sent Noumea via Sydney discharged seamen schooner France Whitney Expedition at their own request at expense of expedition. I have previously wired about the identification papers left in Sydney. Went to bed at 5 P.M. rather tired. Fine weather during day. February 18/9 Reply came for Mayr from Director Zimmer of Berlin Museum- "Return advisable." So our estimable associate will depart on a French freight steamer leaving Tulagi via ports for Marseilles on March 5th. I should like to leave now also since this blasts all my plans and my real reason for remaining. But I should like to see the fi- nances in a better state; and it would make the expedition rather short- handed on Malaita. I am running the engine to save the salary and keep of an engineer. We ought to be clear of debt before June or July. I went over to Gavutu to purchase some oil at Lever Bros. store. A youth named Riddall approached me about getting accommodation on the "France" as apprentice to anything. This is not my first experience of this kind. I could only refer him to Coultais. Weather fine. No collecting done.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B.

(336) 337 February 19 20 Mayr busy packing. I dispatched a radio to J.R.Clay & Co., Samarai, owners of a vessel which would be much more suitable for our work and more economical to run: "Are you interested in"France"in exchange for"Royal Endeavor" if unaltered. Install Deutz motor at your expense."If I had been a bit later in leaving Samarai last July I might have made the exchange at that time. The "France"is a cumbersome soft-wood cargo carrier masquerading as a yacht; and the "Royal Endeavor" is a fast, compact, yacht of hardwood construction being used in the copra trade. The amount of money spent operating the "France" for the past years could finance two such expeditions in smaller and more efficient vessels. And in less time. Coultas will be difficult to convince on the proposition of exchange. The possibilities are very remote at this time anyhow. Captain Burrell declares he will not take over command of any smaller ship. I think that the sooner we can get rid of this ancient mariner and sea-lawyer the better for us. We are discussing little else beside the future of the expedition. Rather we should be in the field taking advantage of the dry spell. No collecting done. Weather fine and clear. February 20 21 Purchased a 2nd hand oil separator from a machine shop ashore. It is in good condition- and ought to save $ in lubricating oil consumption. I dispatched a radio to the Bank of NSW enquiring my balance.- Packed up some ethnological specimens to go to the Museum. Worked on the motor cleaning up. No collecting done. Weather fine. February 21 22 Installed oil separator with help of Eyerdam and completed work on main engine. Four of the boat's crew left to-day. Insufficient food and insufficient pay is the complaint. Two replacements were hired by Coultas later in the day. From now on the crew problem will get worse be paramount No collecting done. Weather fine. February 22 23 Continued work on motor. The routine work on a well-maintained deisel consists of cleaning essential parts. Sent two cases of ethnological material over to BP's wharf- Makambo to go to NY with Eyerdam's cases of shells. One Guadalcanal native engaged as boatswain with another as sailor which completes the crew complement for the present. A Chinese applied for the engineer's job asking 12 pounds a month and keep. I have communicated all the necessary information to Coultas from Dr. Murphy's letter of November 30th, 1929. I have suggested that it would be more economical and more convenient for the Museum to have Eyerdam work New Caledonia as a land expedition since he is anxious to leave in order to join the woman he is to marry. My arguments have always been in favor of the Carolines for this expedition. In regard to obtaining a smaller vessel, Coultas thinks the "France" too good a selling proposition for the final wind-up of affairs. In my opinion the "Royal Endeavor" is a better ship than ours as they are found at present and will sell better in two or three year's time. However, the chance of an exchange is very remote. No collecting done. Weather continues fine. February 23 24 Wrote some letters to-day.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(338) Another application from shore for the engineer's job, this time from Capt. Elder of the Govt. Medical Ship "Hygeia". I know he is not serious and would be dissatisfied. All the Europeans who have been eager to join us do not realize what life on this expedition means. Weather fine. February 24 5- Another radio arrived for Dr. Mayr from Herr Zimmer, Director of the Berlin Museum- "Decide for yourself. No danger staying longer." Having determined his course Mayr is intent on leaving. Coul tas and I talked to Capt. Kidson, the Govt. Secty. about the possibility of the Government allowing the expedition to take a crew of Solomon Is., natives foreign for a year. Coul tas will have to write a formal petition and the Resident Commissioner will consider the matter. After a farewell to Mayr, we hove up at 3:40 P.M. and proceeded to Gavutu where we stopped alongside the wharf while Coul tas made some purchases at the store. Under weigh again by 5 o'clock. The captain wanted to anchor at Mandollana on the Florida coast for the night because the wind happened to be ESE and slightly unfavorable. We insisted that he carry on. He has never shown any aptitude for saving time; the mainsail was unbent while we were at Su-u and has been down below ever since. He uses the motor continuously and is still waiting for a fair wind. Course set for Su-u. Self on watch in the engine room, the others having to take turn about with the wheel. February 25 26 On watch driving until 4 A.M. when the captain lost his bearings completely, having picked up a light which he thought to be on the Malaita coast and turned out to be on a moving vessel. He instructed me to shut down and hove to until daylight. The so-called boatswain recently signed on added to the difficulty by steering an unknown course for two hours of his trick. I slept a while and was awakened at daylight to start the motor. The captain could not determine any land marks although quite close to the coast and was reluctant to take the assurance of some of the crew that we were well north of our destination. Coasting along to the south'ard we soon picked up Su-u and were alongside the wharf at 8 A.M. to take in fresh water at the manager's good favor. Out at anchor by 10 o'clock. Here I caught some sleep. No collecting done. Weather fine. February 26 27 The headman is uncertain about carriers; about 20 are supposed to show up to-morrow. Three native hunters out most of the day. I wrote letters all morning to go into Tulagi for mailing to-morrow morning: a long one to Dr. Murphy and others to W.S. Tait & Co., and the Bank of NSW. Worked on motor after lunch and prepared skins after the hunters returned. Ashore for dinner with the others and returned on board to work on birds. Weather fine and clear. February 27 28 Three natives out shooting which produced about 20 birds. No carriers available yet. Put up birds during afternoon. We were ashore in the evening and Mr. Aldington, who operated the "Royal Endeavor" for the Malayta Company, imparted much information about the ship and strongly recommended the exchange, if it could be effected. The conversation had a favorable result on Coul tas. Weather fine.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(338) 339 March 1> (included with March 1) February 28 Worked on left-over birds in morning and then engaged myself with the motor. No collectors out. Coul tas endeavoring to round up some car- riers. Mainly clear with some thunder storms during afternoon. March 1 M No hunters out to-day. Coul tas and Eyerdam attended a funeral feast at an inland village in search of carriers. I worked on the motor. The local missionary, Mr. Humphries (South Sea Evangelical) came off to dine on board. Coul tas and Eyerdam returned at 7 P.M. Clear weather except for one thunder storm about 2 P.M. March 2 (Sunday) Helped put up a few birds collected yesterday afternoon by Eyer- dam. Govt. ship "Veronika" arrived at 4 P.M. with Major Sanders on board and a surveyor. The former promises he will have 25 carriers for us on the beach to-morrow morning. Weather fine but overcast at night. March 3 Coul tas and Eyerdam left to make a camp inland at some village on the Kwairiekwa river I P.M. The dictum of Major Sanders produced re- sults. I shall wait for a reply to my radio to Clay-Samarai concerning the "Royal Endeavor" which should give us something definite. In the mean- time I assisted the others in getting off and then tinkered about on the motor. AV "Malaita" came in about midnight and I received my reply-"Will consider your proposition next slipping (dry-docking) Papua". Clear during day with some rain squalls during night. No collecting done. March 4 Packed my gear and left on yesterday's trail with three carriers following Kwairiekwa river. Saw four ducks (Anas supercil pelew.) and shot two. Reached the abode of Coul tas and Eyerdam at 5:30 P.M. Elevation ap. 1300 feet on a ridge close to the river; nothing over 3000 in the vicinity. Arorla, a village beyond the headwaters of this river is the place we want to reach. This is in the center of the Ari-Ari District and near the range of Mt. "Kolovrat" which is the highest on the island. Assisted in putting up a few small birds. Several good examples of land shells and insects have been collected. No rain but overcast sky all day. March 5 Found a local native who knows the way to Arorla and is willing to go with me in attempt to make connection with ex-policeman previously recommended. We left at 8 o'clock and followed the Kwairiekwa for four hours. En route we met three citizens of the district around Arorla and picked up another native who lives on the river. The three foreign natives had heard we were camping across the range and had come over for a cas- ual visit to investigate. I distributed tobacco and told them what we wanted; after much talk they agreed to join forces and accompany me to Arorla where we can find the policeman and get some carriers. Rather rough going in the river or on the bank at about 1000 feet elevation. We left it about 2 P.M. and climbed over the first high range- approx. 3300 feet. I neither saw nor heard any mountain birds. Descended to Toho village, the first which had been destroyed by the punitive expedition. It consists of five houses, newly built, and about 30 people. From here one can view the Kwairafa valley; this river flows out on the coast about 10 miles south of Su-u.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(359) 340 The inhabitants seem quite friendly, one old man in particular that I later recognized as a sort of medicine man. He will join our party along with two others; they provided sweet potatoes for supper and a somewhat delapidated house for shelter. The terrane on this side of the range has always supported a large population which continues well over to the east coast of the island. Since the punitive party and "Malaita war" many villages have been moved. The spurs below 2500 feet are covered with secondary growth which is noticeable as old garden and village sites. The formation is unusually rocky; but for the most part the typical reddish soil. Rain began to fall about 3 P.M. At night after kaikai I was given a lot of advice by my companions about care and discretion in dealing with the men living around Arorla. I acquired much information concerning the punitive expedition and its results. No collecting done by me. Weather cleared up at night. March 6 My party now numbers seven. After a breakfast of sweet potatoes we left Toho and descended to the Kwairafa river. Following this stream for about a mile we crossed at an elevation of 500 feet. This I should judge to be very nearly the middle of the island. Here we started a long climb passing through several villages around 2000 feet. Rain commenced at 2 o'clock. The people of these settlements regarded us rather suspiciously as we passed by. No one spoke. Gardens and secondary bush seem to predominate. We made Arorla shortly after 3 and I was stationed in an outlying house after the occupants had been politely asked to leave. Two of my fellows insisted on standing outside with guns (I have two with me). One pounded out several calls on a big wooden drum, the usual hollowed-out tree trunk while I made effort to dry out my clothes. In about half-hour's time a party of fifteen men hove into sight on a trail leading into the bush in front of the house. All appeared to be armed with something or other- a club or bush knife; there were three old Snider rifles. Then ensued a parley with my men and two came inside to interview me. One of these proved to be the man I had been told to find, - "Charlie" Bubomai. As we talked, others came in, tobacco was passed around, and the Sniders, etc., were laid down. This show of strength and the method of parleying with a stranger I judge to be a kind of formality, emulating the customary practice of the recruiters on the beach who used the covering boat and the armed salutation up until about eight years ago. What I witnessed to-day is a survival of it with no particular purpose; they did not impress me by their display that they were on their guard and not to be trifled with. I told Bubomai what I wanted and he said he would try for carriers to-morrow. I answered questions on all sides which seemed to emulate from suspicion rather than curiosity. No collecting accomplished. Rain continued throughout night. March 7 Not many locals are interested in working as carriers because of the long distance back to the Kwairiekwa. Bubomai declared we should have anchored the ship at Sinerango or Ulimburi. Arorla is only about eight hours from the east coast. The high mountain which we want to establish a camp bears NNE from here and is known as "Torombusu" (Kolovrat on the charts). There are no settlements above 2000 feet on its slopes; but a route is known to its summit which can be followed from our present position on the Kwairiekwa. The name Torombusu evidently means something about wind. Bubomai tells me this is the first time Arorla has been visited by a white man alone. The Catholic Fathers have been to places on the western side of the Kwairafa. The people of Arorla did not run away into the bush when the punitive expedition arrived which saved the place from being destroyed. It was used as a base by the Govt. and many of the inhabitants acted as guides. Some districts behind Tacka Tacka and Uru are reported

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B.

(340) 341 to be unsafe by my informants; but that is foreign territory to these folk and such reports are always questionable. Arorla has been visited once by a govt. patrol that brought rice around to these districts which were short of food after the punitive expedition withdrew. In apprehend- ing the natives concerned in the Sinerango affair the police killed pigs and destroyed gardens wherever they saw fit. Food production has not yet come back to normal, taro especially lacking. Bubomai insisted on taking a gun out to show me how well he could shoot but the consistent rain made collecting impossible. The terrane hereabouts is very poor for birds on account of the abundant secondary growth. Arorla is on a hilltop at an altitude of 2700 feet (Aneroid) and one must go two or three miles to find the true forest country. I am kept well supplied with potatoes for food. No specimens brought in. Rainy, overcast weather continues. March 8 Natives have been reluctant to offer themselves as carriers. Charlie Bubomai had 9 this morning. Decided to leave since we may be able to pick some up on the way back. We left Arorla at 8 A.M. and descended to Kwairafa flats where potatoes were dug for the journey. All hands had a bath in the stream and then up creek bottoms and divergent spurs reaching a small village which contributed two carriers. Continued on through old village sites and stopped at a house at the foot of the hills that give rise to the Kwairakwa on the other side. Now about 3 P.M. so we called a halt. I went out hunting and got a phalanger, a large fruit- bat, and a common pigeon which I cooked for supper. In the villages passed through I met with no hostility. Practically all the women and the old men go about wholly naked and quite uncon- cerned. There was no display of weapons after the first episode of Aror- la; the govt. has recently destroyed most of the spears, clubs, bows & ar- rows, etc. I am sure we shall have no difficulty with the natives of this district other than the question of temperament in bargaining and other minor things. I skinned the phalanger before making my usual meal of potatoes, with part of a pigeon as well. Fine weather until after 4 P.M. when it commenced to rain. March 9 Prepared the fruit-bat this morning before breakfast. We were on the road by 9 o'clock, crossing a small tributary of the Kwairafa short- ly after. Then up over the watershed by a different trail from the one I used coming over. Here I shot two crested pigeons (Turcaena crassirostris) and the widely-distributed Solomon cuckoo (Cacomantis). We reached the Kwairiekwa at an elevation of 1500 feet having crossed the range higher up the river than before. Here we connected with a party of eight from Toho, additional carriers, which was a welcome surprise. Arrived in the camp at Erigomano village by 4:30. Coultas and Eyerdam much pleased with the prospects having found very little in this district. Many interesting insects and land shells have been collected but no new species of birds since this zone is of lowland elevation. I fed the carriers and had them quartered in a local house; then assisted in preparing skins until 9 P.M. Weather fine throughout. March 10 Coultas left for Su-u at 6:30 taking all specimens collected up to date in this camp. He is to bring back additional rice, tobacco, ammun- tion, etc., and several of the Arorla carriers will wait here to take the stuff on. Local boys accompany him to the coast. Four hunters out shooting with poor results. Nothing new brought in; however, many series of common species are well filled.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW Y WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B. [illegible]

(34) 342 Eyerdam and self worked on birds at night.The Arorla carriers had a rest to-day. Clear during forenoon but some rain later in day. March II Eyerdam and I left with I4 carriers at IO A.M.,taking nearly all the gear and food with us.We had to pay the owner here for the use of a house,for potatoes,water-carrying,etc. Followed the same Kwairiekwa river and moving slowly began the climb over the range about 5 P.M.Rain threatening we were fortunate in getting the flies up to get under cover before it commenced.Fed the car- criers on some potatoes purchased en route this morning. No collecting done. Rain during night. March I2 Awoke with the beginnings of a bronchial cold.Had to give the carriers rice for breakfast which leaves about 4 lbs.We broke camp at 9 o'clock and after crossing the range got on to an old trail which took us over several ridges and on to the slopes of Torombusu where we had difficulty in finding a camping place at 4000 feet.From the Kwairi- ekwa we turned in a general westerly direction which locates this moun- tain unquestionably as"Kolovrat".Cleared heavy timber and set up two double flies.Water 1/2 mile distant.Finished making camp about 4:30. We are in the true mountain forest and already have heard the small parroquets and identified two species of highland birds:a brown fantail and a Phloscopus.The natives describe others,one of which is undoubtedly the Black-winged Ducula pigeon.On the way up here to*day two good specimens of the small Edolisoma("pseudomontanum")were collected. The carriers made what meal they could on the remaining rice,a large tin of meat,and some biscuits.Dry firewood is difficult to obtain in this area where most of the ground and vegetation is covered with dank moss and the mist hangs low most of the time. Rain commenced about 4 o'clock;weather cleared during night.I am uncomfortable with my cold which is no better. March I3 Nothing to feed the carriers but some oatmeal this morning.I put up birds while Eyerdam and two natives went out shooting.Other boys off to some village down the mountain to obtain a supply of potatoes. Coultas arrived with his carriers and supplies about II A.M.The hunters came back in the afternoon with several new species for Malaita: green parroquet(Charmosynops,"a brown fantail(Rhipidura"rufocastanes")and the mountain Ducula.We were at work preparing these until 9 P.M. My cold has settled in my chest and gives me a raw cough. Rain during the day,light and intermittent. March I4 Five natives out with guns at different times returning many de- sirable birds,two new additions among them- the Phloscopus and a highly- colored parroquet(Charmosyno).There are plenty of willing hunters but few good ones;they are paid in tobacco for what they bring in.I have been preparing specimens constantly.Coultas and Eyerdam are on the same job.We want to run as large series as possible while the weather is in our favor.An unusually large domestic cat was shot which illustrates to what extent these animals have adapted themselves to the bush.They have gradually found their way into the most remote inland villages since their introduction twenty or twenty-five years ago and the progeny being for the most part neglected readily forage for themselves and assume atavistic habits.I feel certain that this process has led to the extermi- nation of Microgoura meeki on Choiseul and probably on Ysabel and Malaita,

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. G. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, Sc.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.Sc. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNOBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B.

(342) 343 These if the species ever inhabited these islands as reported. I think I am (correct in saying that most of the cats were brought to the islands by missionaries and this began between 1905 and 1910. I prepared the skull of this specimen and labelled it as a mat- ter of interest. Numerous visitors came to look us over from villages in this vi- cinity including some very interesting characters; I noted the same air of suspicious curiosity. Weather fine throughout. March 15 Five native hunters out all day returning much desirable mater- ial. The red parrot and brown fantail seem common enough; Phylloscopus and the green parrot are not easily found. Both species of parroquets feed in flocks; but the green ones have fewer individuals and are more active. They frequent the high tree-tops, and are consequently difficult to see when the mist hangs low on the mountain. One of the widely-distrib- ted Columba vittiensis was shot to-day. The black-winged Ducula and long- tailed Macropygia are common in this area. Certain species are probably of totemic significance to the natives judging from their talk. Various clans or moities are represented. Birds taboo to various natives I have question- ed include the big Aquila eagle-hawk, Graucalus papuensis, and two or three ground species which I take to be a rail, a dove, and possibly the thrush (Turdus choiseuli). This is an excellent locality but cramped and uncomfortable liv- ing especially for making bird skins. Last night we heard an owl which the natives describe as "no big fella too much", evidently Spiloglaux. We are collecting insects all the time and one snake was taken the day we arriv- ed which I have not seen before in the Solomons. Land shells will add up in big series before we are through. Additional natives visited the camp to-day, all from this Ari Ari district; some from the slopes just behind Ulimburi on the weather side of the island. Certain of the original carriers are still with us. The staff of camp retainers numbers about 15 and the personnel changes as they come and go. We have to buy all the sweet potatoes offered to provide the neces- sary hospitality which is casually expected. However, this crowd furnishes shooting boys, wood-gatherers, cooks (in sufficient number to spoil anything) and water-drawers. I expect that when the novelty of the situation wears off there will not be so many. I have decided to leave to-morrow morning with two natives for Su-u in order to return additional ammunition and other supplies that are needed. My cold is no better and causes me lack of sleep and general dis- comfort. Another consideration which has been sounded is that these Ari Ari carriers will take considerable persuasion to go the long way back to Su-u when the opposite coast is so much nearer. Coultas and Eyerdam agree that they can work out the high land while I take the ship away to the outlying islands off the Malaita coast returning to Ulimburi (about oppo- site Su-u on the eastern side) to rejoin them. This will cut down our work- ing time in addition. All three of us have been busy putting up specimens daily with no time for anything else. Weather clear during morning so that I could get bearings from the top of the mountain- Nura Is., S 5°E; Marau Sound (Guadalcanal Is.) S 20° E. Rain began to fall after 2 P.M. March 16 Packed up all specimens and my gear ready to leave by 9:30 with two volunteers who will bring ammunition and supplies back to the camp from Su-u. We reached the Kwairiekwa river shortly after noon and stopped at a village below Erigomano, the former base.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSROLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B. [illegible]

(34) 344 No collecting accomplished by me except some insects. Weather fine and clear. March 17 Picked up one box left by Coultaas in a house near the river. Nothing remains at Erigomano where I stopped to see if sometnings which coultaas could not carry with him had been returned to Su-u by some of the boat's crew as he had directed. Rain commenced at 2:30 increasing to downpour. We got out to the coast by 3:45 and went aboard the schooner where I got into dry clothes. Unpacked and rewrapped the specimens I had brought down. Captain has been painting the ship after burning off and is near- ly finished. No collecting done by me. Wea[illegible]ther cleared up at night. March 18 Packed up the supplies needed up in the bush and sent off the two carriers at 8 A.M. Also paid off a casual"work-play"boy who has been hanging about the ship and remunerated"Whisky", the local headman for his services. Squared up our account with the Malayta Company; they have sup- plied us with many necessities and have offered every available assist- ance. Started motor at 3 P.M. and proceeded alongside wharf to take in fresh water. Finished by 7 o'clock, made adieux, and cast off. Southerly course set to pass Cape Zelee. Captain ill with attack of fever. Sea fair- ly calm but heavy rains. Self on watch all night. No collecting done. March 19 Cape Zelee in sight at dawn and course altered for Ulawa Is. Wind came away from the north and headed us until we made the lee side of the island about 1 P.M. Sotalahia Anchorage very exposed to this weath- er. Coasted up to NW end of Ulawa (Ngorongoro) and dropped anchor outside inner harbor while captain went out in longboat to sound and inspect the very narrow and tortuous passage. The"France"must negotiate this to lie in the only possible harbor here. Decided to try it and succeeded after about an hour's work using both motor and kedge anchors. The ship touched three times on isolated stones; the false keel eliminated any possibility of damage. We found no swinging room inside and had to put down both anc- hors and lay out two kedges to keep the vessel in position. The manager of the plantation here is away; no other white people on the place. Our success in manoeuvering the ship into this little cove proved fortunate for both the captain and myself. He is truly [illegible] to a spell of subtertian malaria; and I also have an attack with the miserable gastric complications and a heavy cold as well. No collecting done. Strong NW squalls and gales during night. March 20 Captain a little better to-day. Self very ill and unable to get out of bed. Crew continued with the painting around the ship. Numerous natives came aboard. No collecting done. Overcast sky and variable northerly winds. March 21 Another bad day of fever. Captain much worse to-day. Neither he nor I can stomach any food and have to lie [illegible] still. Plenty of natives in this district; no trouble to get hunters. Fresh wind from the NE made the vessel strain at her moorings which had to be adjusted during day. Some rain at night. No collecting done. March 22 Captain and self still ill; but I am somewhat improved.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. G. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B. [illegible]

(344) 245 Aravo, the cook, has joined the sick list with fever and a cough. I got up in the afternoon and took some food. Some of the locals brought along fresh vegetables and fruit to trade. No collecting done yet on account of sickness and bad weather. Overcast all day and strong NW wind. March 23 (Sunday) Captain still down. I went ashore with my gun but saw very few birds and nothing unusual. I find myself weakened from the fever bout and so returned on board the ship having collected some land shells. Mino dumontii, Domicella, Trichoglossus haematodus, and Rhipidura tricolor melaleuca were the only species I noted. Ulawa reaches an elevation of approx. 1300 feet and is basically volcanic. Coraline limestone is common around the sea-coast. It is densely wooded and there are no trails up to the high land from our anchorage. Three villages are near at hand but their gardens are near the sea and they do not have much occasion to go very far inland. Ulawa Is., is not more than eight miles in length and from four to six in breadth with rather regular shape. From the NW side the natives have made trails up the mountain on top of which there are reported monolithic remains of interest. I shall not be able to visit them. No bird specimens collected. Overcast weather continues with NW wind. March 24 Captain still sick; and another sailor, which puts three in disability. I am better and spent the day ashore where I observed more birds than I did yesterday but only shot one Nycticorax. Small birds are not represented here at all. I had several normally intelligent natives about me to-day and I brought them aboard to see the Malaita specimens. They could not recognize any of the flycatchers, fantails, honeysuckers, or kingfishers one would expect to find on an island of this size. In addition to species noted yesterday I can add the following: Halcyon albicilla saurophag., Cinyris jugularis, Loris pectoralis, Demiegretta sacra, Edolisoma schisticeps (common graybird), Aplonis cantoroides and Ap. metallica; Graucalus papuensis, Haliaster indu, Aquila, Ptilinopus superbus (red-breast dove), and the two species of Ducula "Pseudeos" (red coconut parrot) I did not collect any of these widely-distributed species even for the locality. Heavy weather continues; rain squalls and wind from the NW. March 25 Three hunters ashore all day despite stormy weather. They returned a few common parrots which are of no interest. Several species of land shells have been collected in good series. I have put up very few specimens and shall leave for the mainland as soon as the weather turns favorable. We cannot visit the Three Sisters. Of these there is only one small island not completely planted with coconuts and this one is some few miles away from the only anchorage. The captain does not want to take the ship there; probably because it would make a little more work for him. He does as little as possible and has never shown any interest toward assisting the expedition. Stormy NW weather throughout day and night. March 26 Captain recovered from his fever, we made the ship ready for sea and marked all the stones in the entrance to this little harbor with bouys. Got under weigh by II:30 A.M. with three kedge anchors and the motor. Cleared the passage and anchored offshore in heavy swell, the captain being unwilling to proceed until to-morrow morning which will get us to Maramasike (South or "Small" Malaita) in good light. I am due at Ulimburi to connect with the camping party on April 1st.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B. [illegible]

(345) 346 One of the crew still sick and unable to work.My bronchial cold remains but is much improved. Fortunately, no strong wind during night, but light and variable from NW to SW. March 27 Hove up and under weigh at daylight making for Port Adam(west coast of Maramasike Is.); used motor continuously. Overran entrance bet- ween Haleili and Mary Is., which lengthened the run nearly two hours. Enterred passage at 2 P.M. and turned north but found no good ground and proceeded south inside barrier islands looking for anchorage convenient to landing.3 P.M.grounded on reef through utter carelessness in naviga- tion.The plan of the place was made in 1850 and we had no look-out aloft. Spent the rest of the day trying to get off without success.Since it was nearly high water when we struck, the vessel was soon in very shallow water due to receding tide. The captain decided to wait for the night tide.He blames every- body but himself for the accident. No collecting done. Rain during afternoon and at night. March 28 I turned in last night expecting to be roused by the captain to help at refloating the ship as soon as the tide came up.He says he got up to have a look but decided to wait until daylight.Meanwhile the ship is slowly filling up with water because she lies canted forward with dry seams under surface.Most of the supplies in the main hold are wet including ammunition and corn meal.The engine sump and crank pits are full of salt water which means a complete take-down.All hands busy pumping and bailing from 6 o'clock until 2 when we got her dry.Attempts with kedge anchors have failed to move her.I swam around the stern with diving glasses and found that about 12 feet of the keel is embedded in soft coral. The captain having no suggestions I went ashore and got about 60 natives to come out in canoes.These set about to breaking the coral around the keel with crowbars, marlin spikes, etc., with a promise of a case (15 lbs.) of tobacco if they helped us get the vessel free.Forty of them got underneath the counter and along the keel to lift and push while the rest heaved on the kedges at a given signal.She came off quite easily. And the whole mob yelled for five minutes,- because they had won their tobacco. Vessel at anchor by 4:30 P.M. I sent some of the crew over to look at the bottom and they reported no visible damage; another case for the false keel. Overcast all day with heavy rain in afternoon. No collecting done. March 29 Worked all day drying out cartridges, corn meal, collecting gear; and turned to on the motor which required about eight hours to drain out, clean up, and put in order. Crew worked in main hold and the captain restowed lazarette.During this process two rats were caught.This is another discouraging piece of intelligence, and the result of spending the night alongside Lever Bros. wharf at Gavutu on Jan.23rd. I talked to some of the local boys in the evening about birds and showed them specimens.Many of these they could not recognize and it is evident that "Small Malaita" does not possess a large bird population.They mentioned none I could not identify from their description. Weather clear and hot with one shower during forenoon. No collecting done.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B.

(346) 347 March 30 Hove up at 8 A.M.and proceeded out upper northern entrance of Port Adam setting course for Takka Takka (Deep Bay). Wind light from E; set sails to some advantage but motor used continuously as usual. Saw flocks of terns feeding off entrance to Maramasike Passage. We were delayed by a stoppage of the motor due to water in the fuel. Anchored in Deep Bay near a stream that falls directly into the sea; this is a remarkable harbor and could accommodate a small navy. Went ashore about 4 o'clock to bathe and wash clothes. Mr. Walker of AV "Korombusu" recruiting ship visited us. Heavy rain during night. No collecting done. March 31 Thick mist over bay during morning accompanied by light rain. Crew loading fresh water. Weather cleared at noon. Hove up and proceeded under power making for Ulimburi (Double Bay) where we are to connect with camping party. Anchored at 5 P.M. This is another remarkably fine harbor. We have been taking advantage of any sunlight to dry out cartridges, cornmeal, etc. I have been busy labelling Malaita specimens. Some of the local natives came off. No collecting done. Fine weather all day; some rain at night. April 1 Fresh early morning land breeze from NW. To-day we continued drying material that remains wet from our experience on the reef. A native of this district who was in the camp for a while on Mt. Kolovrat (Torombusu) brought a letter from Coultais. The collecting is not nearly finished due to bad weather chiefly. He intends shifting the camp from the high mountain to Arorla where he will stay until the series are complete. He is in need of more ammunition and other things which I made ready immediately; these I dispatched during the afternoon by three local natives after the usual bickering. They will reach Arorla to-morrow. Hove up at 5:30 P.M. and proceeded out of harbor setting course for Gower Is., 25 miles NE of Malaita. Clear weather and calm sea. No collecting done. April 2 On watch all night driving motor. SW breeze came away at dawn as we sighted Gower. Saw several dark shearwaters and another which I identified as perhaps Pterodroma becki. Lowered the small dinghy to chase them after stopping the motor. Much to the chagrin of the captain. But I could not get close. We continued on for Gower but a hot bearing forced a stoppage about noon. Course set for wrong end of island for anchorage, an obvious mistake. Tacking to little advantage against NE breeze. Re-started motor at 3:15 P.M. and made for SE end of island where we located the bay indicated and came to comfortably in 10 fathoms. 4:30. No natives seen; villages inland with fishing houses on the beach. Weather fine. Hot and calm at night with mosquitoes. No collecting done. April 3 Ashore at 7:30 and met natives coming out to the coast. Gave out two guns and collected until I P.M. when I returned on board with a dozen birds to put up, leaving three native hunters out shooting. This little island has some unusual forms. I found the black-knobbed pigeon common and the only representative of Ducula on the island. This adds another locality for this rather strangely distributed mutant: Rennell Is., Buena Vista (and Florida - no specimens from the latter), and reported on Nissan but none secured. A new Ptilinopus related to species on Rennell and Santa Anna Is. is present with distinctive variation. In addition to these I put up several common island flycatchers (Monarcha

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B. [illegible]

inornatus). Native hunters brought in more birds at 5 o'clock. Trichoglossus is represented by form that appears smaller than most. I was kept busy skinning birds until a late hour. Weather fine and clear. April 4 Three guns out all day. I remained aboard to put up specimens until 4 P.M. when I went ashore to make additional observations. I note several common species: Kakatoe, Chalcoenas nicobaricus, Chalcophaps, steph ani, Pandion haliaetus, Halcyon sancta, Eurystomus orientalis, Halcyon albicilla saurophag., and Aplonis metallica. One species of fruit bat is present. Charadrius dominicus is common and runs about in the gardens quite close to native houses. A rail is described by the natives. Gower Is., is only 4 miles NNE x SSW and from one to two miles wide. The formation is completely coralline limestone and the height of the island does not exceed 50 feet. It is densely forested throughout and the ground inland is very fertile judging from the excellence of native produce. Near the southwestern side there is a large lagoon en- tirely enclosed which probably connected with the sea at one time. The island is called "Dai" by the natives who number about fifty. They origin- ally came from North Malaita and still carry on active trade with coastal people, especially those of the Tai Lagoon. There is considerable fishing done in addition to the cultivation of the two staples- taro and coconuts. Chinese traders call occasionally to buy shell which is obtained on the fringing reefs; these are of no great extent. Water for drinking purposes is collected in holes in the coral. About twenty birds were returned to-day including a good number of doves. They kept me busy until a late hour. Fine weather continues. April 5 I went ashore early with three natives and secured a rail. This is evidently Gymnocrex sp. and is heard generally at early morn and toward evening, - "kong-a-o", which is the native name for the bird. With several other specimens I returned to the ship to prepare them. I am not taking any of the widely-distributed species in order to concen- trate on the new ones. Native hunters returned about 4 with good bag; I sent them out again to search for rails at dusk and again early to-morrow morning. It is a good opportunity to make a good series of this rather rare species. Ranging over the small area of this island one is almost sure to hear them calling, usually at their appointed times, during six or eight hours hunting. Like most ground birds it is difficult to get a shot at one. The natives have both pigs and dogs; these do not appear to have affected the bird life to any degree. Fortunately, no cats are pre- sent. Busy putting up birds until late at night. Weather fine but hot. April 6 (Sunday) The four hunters were out early this morning having kept the guns ashore last night. One small boy brought along another rail. Later several doves and pigeons were returned. Another sally toward evening yielded three more rails, one badly shot. Ptilinopus and Trichoglossus are going into large series. Land shells of three species have been coming in daily at a stick of tobacco for the dozen. Putting up specimens day and night. Weather fine with light SE breeze. April 7 Four guns out early as usual resulting in a complement of doves, pigeons, parroquets, and one New Zealand cuckoo (Urodynamis taitensis).

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS 'MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK' WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(348) 349 I caught up on the birds by noon to-day and worked on the motor during the afternoon making ready for early start to-morrow.The even- ing's hunt returned three rails which gives us a fairly good series.All together nearly ninety specimens from four days collecting. Putting up birds at night. Wind fresh from SE with occasional squalls. April 8 Hove up at 7 A.M.and proceeded out under power clearing reefs in thick rain squall.NE wind died and then shifted to SE which forced us to beat all day.Manoba Is.,off NE coast of Malaita in sight by 6 P.M.Motor used continually until 9 o'clock. Saw several shearwaters during the day but could not try for them. Stormy weather during the night;vessel made little progress. April 9 Called by Captain to fix steering device which had become disar- ranged.Ship about abeam of Atta Cove.Started motor at 9 A.M.Dirty weather all day;wind light SE and ESE with several heavy squalls,one carrying away the outer jib sheet.Captain asleep from IO A.M.until I when we were just past Cape Arascides.From here we made a good ccourse to Ulimburi,an- choring at 5:25 P.M.Saw isolated shearwaters,- about a dozen at different times(Puffinus pacificus chlororhynchus) and another smaller bird,dark with white underside (Pterodroma becki); impossible to lower boat because of bad weather and short-handed crew.The captain is a positive hindrance to the collecting work. Eyerdam came down from the camp at Arorla yesterday bringing all specimens which we unpacked and put away.He had several birds to be pre- pared,shells,insects,etc. We shall return to Arorla to-morrow,taking more ammunition and some food. Overcast sky;cool but no rain during night. April 10 Morning taken up finishing work aboard ship.Eyerdam and I landed at 2 P.M.with ten carriers he had brought down including the faithful and most useful "Charlie" Bubomai.Climbed nearly to the top of the first ridge and slept in a small village. The terrane rises rather suddenly behind the brief foreshore and is of mixed porphery formation with an abundance of coraline limestone intermingled.From about 800-1000 feet we passed through numerous patches of secondary growth indicating old garden land. No collecting done. Rain during night. April II Breakfasted on rice and started by 8 A.M.,crossing at 3500 feet by noon.The typical mountain forest begins at about 3000;again I noticed the rockiness of the landscape.It is not so pronounced on Torombusu,the big mountain.Coraline limestone is predominant,especially on the eastern slopes of the region we are passing through.Bird life seemed rather sparse We met two natives on the trail who had a few specimens.These we took on to Arorla where we found Coultas at work.3 P.M.Practically all the series are well-filled,even up to fifty specimens in some cases.Over 500 skins time have been made during this trip inland.I should like to have had more time at the Torombusu camp at 4000 feet;however,I do not think the expedi- tion has missed much.We cannot stay more than a week longer for many rea- sons,- principally food shortage on the ship;in camp one can always get native food. Assisted with bird preparation.Hunters returned at 5 o'clock. Rain commenced about 4 continuing into night. April I2 Four natives out with guns all day.They are not shooting the com- mon species which we have well represented.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS “MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK” WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, Ph.B. [illegible]

(349)360 One Strix alba brought in by a native who wounded it with an arrow when he saw it sitting in its hole high up in a big tree. Many of the locals had never seen this bird before. The rarest species in the collection to date are: Spiloglaux sp., Ceyx lepidus. Additional specimens are needed to fill good series of the following: Micropsitta, Phylloscopus, Charmosynopsis, Graucalus lineatus. At work with others putting up birds. Weather fine and clear. April 13 (Sunday) Three of the hunters went off to visit their villages some miles distant taking their guns with them. One boy brought in three fruit bats which gives us a series of II. Another small owl returned but so badly shot that it could only be put into alcohol. No mountain birds taken to-day. The collectors have to go about two hours in order to get into highland forest, the terrane around Arorla being covered with garden land and secondary growth. About the only mountain bird that is readily obtainable hereabouts is the brown fantail (Rhipidura

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(350) 351 I find myself rather weak and got into the blankets with a touch of fever. No collecting done.Strong SE wind during night with bursts of rain. April 17 On the road by 9 A.M.reaching the Govt.Tax-collecting House by noon.Alone and with good conditions one could make the hike from Arorla to the coast in 8-10 hours.The distance to either Ulimburi or Sinerango is approximately the same from our camp. All on board by 3:30 where we found the captain ill with fever (sub-tertian gastric).We plan to leave to-morrow.Assisted with the un- packing of specimens and worked on the motor anticipating early start. No collecting done.Weather fine but misty at night with some rain. April 18 My condition much improved with good night's rest.I had a job to finish on the motor and could not get started on time.Captain attempted to sail out of the harbor but westerly breeze off the land fell as the ship approached the outer reef passage and forced him to put about to re- turn to the anchorage under light southerly.Hove up again and proceeded out under power setting course to round north end of Malaita.All sails set but wind light and variable from the south'ard.Stopped motor at 5 P.M. Took deck watch from 6 to 10 P.M. Passed Manoba Is.A/C to West. Saw a few flocks of noddies,some sooties,and a few gannets. Fine and cool during night. April 19 Cape Astrolabe well astern at dawn and course set SW/W to pass through passage between Florida and Buena Vista Is.Using motor from 7:30 A.M.throughout run.Good weather and fairly calm sea until 4 P.M. when wind and rain squalls came away from the SE.Cap tain decided to anchor in lee of Olevuga Is. 5:30 P.M. Eyerdam ashore to look for shells. No sea-birds of interest sighted during run.But just after Eyer- dam had left in the small dinghy a dusky-colored storm petrel came into [illegible].It flew about the harbor at quite a distance from the ship.It was too dark for me to distinguish any identification. Weather cleared up during night. April 20 (Easter Sunday) sfoot Eyerdam ashore early with some of the crew to collect shells and shoot pigeons.I had a pump gland to re-pack;finished by 8 A.M.and vessel under weigh by 9.Wind SE dead ahead all the way in to Tulagi.We passed through several heavy squalls.Anchored in harbor about I P.M.,but too close to the shore.Washed down and cleaned up. All of us had dinner at the hotel.Captain stayed ashore all night. April 21 Severe squall caused vessel to drag her anchor and come up with the keel bumping the bottom and foul ground all around.This awakened me at 5 A.M.and I hurriedly got all hands to the windlass to heave the ship up to her anchor and out of shallow water.Started the motor and shifted the vessel around to the inner harbor(Ellis cove)which is protected from the SE and affords the only comfortable anchorage for a ship of our ton- nage during this season.Only the false keel touched the bottom;so no da- mag done.Captain arrived aboard at noon. reslves No business can be done ashore- bank holiday.Labelled birds on board.After supper ashore we found the postmaster who gave us some mail. I received a radio from Dr.Sanford. Weather fine with strong SE wind. No collecting done. April 22 Visited Burns Philp to learn our status.Dispatched one radio to Bank of NSW to enquire our balance and another to Clay & Co.,Samarai.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS 'MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK' WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. G. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(352) Goods ordered by Coultas from W.S.Tait & Co., Sydney agents, came to hand. Developed photographs in the evening. No collecting done. Miserable weather- rainy all day. April 23 Cleared up to-day and wind fresh from the SE. Worked on labels. No collecting done. Fine at night. April 24 Radio from bank indicates a very small balance. We wired NY- "When can we rely on receiving remittance? Now ready to leave." Finished labelling Malaita specimens. No collecting done. Weather fine and clear. April 25 Started overhaul on motor. Wrote some mail for SS "Marsina" which calls en route to Sydney in a few day's time. No collecting done. Weather fine with fresh SE trades. April 26 Radio reply came from NY informing that $10,000 had been sent out to the expedition between Jan. 15th (approx.) and April 9th, the latter evidently being the date of the last dispatch. Of this amount $4500 has been received. So, Coultas can count on $5500. This sum will liquidate all debts out here (exclusive of New York deficit, staff salaries, etc.) I worked on the motor and visited Gavutu during the afternoon. No collecting done. Weather fine and clear. April 27 (Sunday) I spent last night at Gavutu returning to Tulagi at 9 A.M. to- day. No collecting done. Weather fine and clear. April 28 The last remittance sent from NY on April 9th should reach Syd- nery on May IIth with the SS "Tahiti" mail. We showed the wire from the Museum to Mr. Scott, BP's manager, proposing that he accept a cheque and allow us to leave for Samarai. He waived the responsibility but agreed to cable the head office-Sydney for superior sanction. Worked on motor and assisted in packing material for shipment. No collecting done. Fine weather continues. April 29 Satisfactory reply from Burns Philp-Sydney gives us leave to depart for Samarai. We expect to call at Rennell on this trip. Then at Samarai we shall try to arrange an exchange of the "France" for the "Royal" Endeavor" which would be much to the expedition's advantage; but the possi- bility of the trade is very remote. Failing this, the "France" can be pulled up for repairs to her copper sheathing. Coultas will make New Caledonia his next collecting ground. I shall leave for America either at Samarai or Noumea, depending on time and convenience,- probably Samarai. I worked on the motor drawing pistons and taking down big end bearings for general inspection and cleaning. SS "Marsina" arrived and left for Gaudalcanal coast. SS "Duranbah" came in from Rabaul. No collecting done. Weather fine but hot. April 30 Continued work on motor and assisted with packing of specimens. The captain is seldom aboard the ship except to sleep, no matter what hour of the twenty-four. He and I are on rather frosty terms. I am in favor of giving him notice immediately. Coultas wants to wait, for fear that he might leave us stranded without a replacement. SS "Marsina" sailed for Sydney. No collecting done. Weather fine.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B. [illegible]

(352) 353 May 1 Worked on motor. Attended at Capt. Crookshank's house for dinner in company of Mrs. Crookshank and Coulτας. No collecting done. Fine weather during day. SE squalls and heavy rain at night. May 2 Worked on motor until after lunch when I went over to Gavutu to obtain a spare part. I stayed for supper at the mess. Mr. Riddall, the Asst. Accountant in Lever Bros. office has applied to Coulτας for work on the schooner and has been promised an appointment. I returned to Tulagi about 8 P.M. Eyerdam has been ashore to-day, got lost on native tracks, and shot a male "long-tail" Centropus. This is the first specimen taken on Florida Is., although it has been heard many times. Fine weather with light SE trade wind. May 3 Worked on the motor nearly all day. Eyerdam out after shells in small dinghy. SS "Duranbah" sailed. Capt. E. Palmer's AV "Mendana" is in port. We paid him a call in the evening. No collecting done. Clear weather with heavy showers at night. May 4 Vessel remains at anchor in Ellis Cove. The captain is ill with fever again which may delay our departure. I continued work on the motor and expect to overhaul and clean everything before the job is finished. Eyerdam out after shells. Clear and hot during day with heavy rain at night. No collecting done. May 5 Busy re-assembling motor. Eyerdam out after shells. No collecting done. Fine weather but hot and calm. May 6 Completed work on the motor to-day. Captain still ill. Shipment of Malaita specimens and one package of curios and ethnological material marked in my name ready to go to Burns Philp. Eyerdam out after shells part of the day. No collecting done. Fine weather with good trade wind. May 7 Additional adjustments necessary on motor before the vessel could leave the anchorage. Hove up at 2 P.M. and proceeded alongside Carpenter's wharf to take in fresh water. Left with tanks full at 6:30 and anchored out in the harbor. SS "Mataram" arrived from Sydney at 4 P.M. Eyerdam out after shells; admirable industry. No other collecting done. Mr. Riddall, the new prospective associate, came over from Gavutu in the evening. Weather fine and clear with brisk trades blowing. Rain at night. May 8 No American mail came to hand. The vessel is ready for sea but the usual unfinished business lengthens the delay. Mr. Riddall moved his dunnage aboard to-day and officially joins the expedition on this date. I visited the steamer in the evening and learned that Dr. Lambert is in Tulagi and expects to visit Rennell Is., to make a health survey of the natives. He is directing the campaign of the Rockefeller Foundation (with cooperation of the Govt. Medical Service) on hookworm and yaws. This work has been carried on throughout the South Pacific generally. His intention of going to Rennell Is., (under government supervision)

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNUBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

puts an entirely new aspect on our proposed trip which was to be to Samarai via Rennell Is.,without official permission or clearance(for reasons of expediency). No collecting done except Eyerdam's usual shell-hunt. Weather fine during day with rain at night. May 9 I went to see Dr.Lambert this morning and had a long conversation about Rennell Is.I fetched Coultras and we proposed that the Rockefeller Foundation visit Rennell as guest of the Whitney Expedition provided the Government is agreeable.This is the only way we can make the trip with- out having Govt. surveillance(police boys,etc.)to impede our work.If the Resident Commissioner is in favor it will save him the expense of two voyages to Rennell for the HMCS"Ranadi". We are fortunate not to be at sea bound for Rennell with a foreign clearance.The Govt. steamer would arrive with Dr.Lambert's party and the"France"would be seized for breaking pratique.Besides it is doubtful whether or not our old captain would take the ship to Rennell without clearance.Coultras has not informed him. Dr.Lambert will talk matters over with the Resident Commissioner this evening: No collecting done. Rainy all day with very little wind. May 10 We met Dr.Lambert early and learned that the Commissioner Mr. Ash- ley approved of the trip to Rennell Is., as outlined.Plans made to leave Tulagi on Monday night(May I2th). No collecting done. Weather fine with SE trade blowing fresh. May 11 (Sunday) Two anchors down on account of strong wind across harbor.I put in half the day working on the motor.Visited with Drs. Lambert and Steenson and took dinner with them. No collecting done other than Eyerdam's daily shell hunt. Fine weather and fresh trades from SE. May 12 Worked on motor until noon.We hove up after lunch and proceeded alongside BP's wharf to draw some stores and fill up water tanks.Dr. Lambert ordered a generous supply of food for his part of the trip's maintenance.Vessel back at anchorage at 6 P.M. Hove up with all hands aboard at 11 P.M.and set course for Berande- Guadalcanal where we are to pick up Mr.Gordon White,Dr.Lambert's associ- ate,who will assist him in his examination of natives. I received an official letter from the Govt.Sec't'y.this morning at 11 A.M.asking when we proposed a visit to Rennell Is.,concerning which the Commissioner had been unofficially informed.I replied in writing with full particulars and sent the letter ashore for delivery by special mes- sanger to the"top office"this afternoon. On watch in the engineroom all night.Calm sea with very little wind. May 13 Off Guadalcanal coast at dawn anchoring at Berande at 7 A.M.Dr.Lam- bert went ashore to visit his field workers.I took the opportunity to clean valves and filters.Mr.Robinson,manager of the local plantation en- tertained everyone at lunch.Mr. White and all the Rockefeller campaign gear embarked by 1 P.M.and the vessel away shortly after.Bucking strong SE wind and current all afternoon.We had to argue strongly with the cap- tain to carry on beyond Aola where he wanted to waste a night at anchor. Wind fell at dusk and vessel made better speed.Several rain showers. On watch between short naps throughout night.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSCOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B. [illegible]

(35) May 14 Off Marau Sound at 9 A.M.and by IO o'clock a course set for the eastern end of Rennell,the weather point of the island.ESE breeze with motor throttled down stands us well up on the desired course. Saw two flocks of noddy terns.Some rain squalls during day.One split the foresail near the peak;it took three hours to bend the new one which has been in the ship for over a year but never used. Vessel making good time all night.Captain afearred we might overrun the island without seeing it altered the course twice to the west of south May 15 Rennell Is. sighted at daylight.Our protracted landfall would be about in the middle of the island.Changing the course last night gave a way all our easting.Captain decided to beat up to round windward extremity.Stopped motor at IO A.M.after nearly sixty hours of continuous running.All day on long tacks.Put about offshore at 9:30 P.M.,about five miles from the eastern end of the island.Fresh ESE breeze with big sea running. May I6 Around to leeward side of island by 5 A.M. and coasting along under fair breeze,which feel light at 9 o'clock.Started motor.Approached eastern point of Kunggava bay where we came upon a flock of about thirty dusky-brownish-black shearwaters resting on the water.I saw single specimens earlyy this morning and tried to shoot two of them from the deck. This is the largest flock I have yet seen.Unfortunately,none were collected. Proceeded into bay and found good sheltered anchorage the captain taking my directions based on Crockshank's leading marks.Natives came off immediately,among them many familiar faces.Eyderdam and I went ashore collecting in the afternoon,returning about 20 birds of 6 species.One immediately notices how prolific the bird life is on Rennell compared to any other island in the Solomons (or in this part of the world). We saw only a few people arbound the beach settlement.Most of them are inland at the lake settlement(Kasiwala)attending a festival of some ki kind. Weather cleared up after we were anchored.Assisted in preparing specimens until 9 P.M. May I7 9 A.M.started motor and shifted vessel to position closer to landing and in calmer water.Riddall out collecting for the first time with Eyerdam and myself. Dr.Lambert set up flies on shore to begin examinations for jaws and hookworm and census survey.Natives came across from Bellona settlement in the Kanava district;this is located on the western side of bay in which the "France"lies at anchor. Several good species returned including a thrush(Turdus choiseuli) and the little ground dove(Gallicolumba).We want to concentrate on the more unique.[illegible] Putting up birds in the evening. Weather fine and clear;strong SE wind causes a big swell in the bay most of which we escape. May 18 Riddall,Eyderdam,and I ashore most of the day returning about 25 specimens.I took some photographs on the sand beach in the afternoon. Ten natives,most of whom I can recognize,came down to the "White Sands" from the lake settlement(Tengano).They bring greetings from both the important chiefs and are prepared to take a party in for a visit. Assisted with bird-skinning and preparation after supper. Overcast most of the day with rain at night.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

May 19 We decide to leave for a stay at the lake to-morrow morning. Eyerdam and I busy with preparation.Riddall and the Captain both ill with fever.Developed some photographs and went ashore for a short time in the afternoon.No specimens brought in.All the more acquisitive natives are anxious to go out shooting;but the majority would simply waste ammu- nition.One youth may be useful.Speaking generally, the practice is risky. Showers during afternoon and at night. May 20 Dr. Lambert,Mr.White(his associate),Eyerdam and I finally got off at II:15 A.M.for the trip inland after the usual delays with carriers and packs.We used the same track I went over previously,- rough,coraline limestone nearly all the way.Rain fell all afternoon to make matters worse and we arrived at the terminal village on Lake Tengano in several stages of desretude about 5:30 where we took very crowded shelter in two houses.I got under a rug with a slight attack of fever. We dined on panas(a species of sm all yam) and tea.Eyerdam and I slept under a shelter about12 feet x 10 with six natives o f various sizes. Dr. Lambert and White shared a comparatively large ho use(15 feet x 30 feet)with about 30 native companions. No collecting done. Rain in showers throughout night. May 21 We were under obligation to visit the chiefs and their cohorts be- fore doing anything.All important citizens are partisans to some degree in a religious ritual which has been going on for some time centering around fo od interest,- fertility of the soil,harvest,and so forth.We came away loaded with presents of coconuts and vegetables.These reciproc- ated our gifts of axes to important men(three)and an adze to each of the two chiefs. Eyerdam and I got out collecting about 10 A.M.after putting up our flies to give all members of the party a place to work and sleep.Privacy does not exist in the social scheme of Rennell.Eyerdam got a specimen of the crane(so-called by me when I missed it during my first visit);it is a spoonbill and proved to be a female(doubtful).The natives tell me inter- esting and astonishing things about this species.There is supposed to exist only a few(three has been cited)and these apparently do not breed here;nor do they leave the vicinity of the lake to go in the forest to breed like the cormorants;nor do they migrate.When asked how long the birds had been around the lake in their memory the only answer I could get was"long time",an idea of limited meaning to these people.They know the nesting habits of the other bird residents,but this spoonbill has them puzzled to the extent that several told me it was connected in some mysterious way with the"Big Master",the god of their universe.Certain other birds are taboo and are involved with mythology;but this one is the most interesting. The plumage of Halcyon sancta appears different here on Rennell.I am always expecting to find this species breeding somewhere in the islands but without success. Returned to put up birds in the afternoon. Weather unsettled during day but fine at night. May 22

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. G. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

May 22 The rail which I thought we had missed on our previous visit was shot to-day and proved to be the relatively common Dupetor flavicollis, a brown bittern. Natives do not seem to know any other bird that might be Gymnocrex or a pitta. Eyerdam out collecting on the lake returned nothing new but managed to get two pairs of ducks which were welcome for food. All members of the party had to visit the circle of chiefs several times. Much singing and dancing going on. I made several photographs in very poor light. Weather overcast with heavy rain at night. May 23 Dr. Lambert and his assistant Mr. White left for the coast at 9:15. Heavy rain followed for the day. We collected a pair of grebes and an ibis. The latter species is much more common at the lake than in the bush. Eyerdam and I went out on the lake but the weather made collecting difficult. He found specimens of Melanians proving that the lake had been lifted up recently in its geologic history. Weather cleared up at night. May 24 Fine weather broke this morning and we went out on the lake early. I had hoped to take soundings but strong SE wind prevented me getting very far beyond islands. The sky clouded over about noon driving us to shelter at Baingau village, the place where the field party stopped on its visit in 1929.ar I saw a black water snake about 16" long but could not manage to catch it, the natives in the canoe being very much frightened. We got sev- eral species of prawns and two species of fish. Shells are extremely un- common. Several birds collected during the afternoon. Very heavy rains during night and squalls of wind that nearly blew over our tent. May 25 Rain continued all day making any work impossible. We were forced to sit in the tent all morning surrounded by a large crowd of natives. We both went out on the lake after lunch primarily to wash and to shoot a duck for food. I find a cold developing and notice that many of the natives have coughs and sneezes. Rain in gusty squalls throughout night. May 26 Morning overcast and rain commenced about 7 A.M. but lifted in an hour so that we could prepare to depart. I got a few photographs when the sun came out. We left at 11 A.M. and reached the coast about 3:30. Found all hands aboard the ship where we unpacked our specimens and cleaned up. After supper we put up birds until 9 P.M. Weather overcast but rain kept off all night. May 27 This proved to be one of the worst days yet experienced here for weather- rain and easterly wind all day. At work developing photographs. Riddall ill with fever and Dr. Lambert nursing an island sore on his ankle. The vessel is crowded with natives clamoring to trade; they are a constant source of annoyance. May 28 Weather broke favorable this morning so that we could take some more photographs which were subsequently developed. Eyerdam ashore with three of the boat's crew returning a number of specimens. These kept us busy until 9 P.M. Showers during the night. May 29 Hove up at 4 A.M. and proceede ed out of the bay under power setting

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. G. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

course for western extremity of the island.We passed close in shore at Logugi where Dr.Deck anchored about 18 years ago.No natives were seen,a clump of coconuts being the only sign of habitation.Again,at the end of the island a few coconuts showed that natives had been using thé place as a fishing camp.Two interpreters on board call this spot Mungghenua.From here we stood over to Mongiki(Bellona Is.)and arrived off the eastern end at 5 P.M.We coasted along to the SW end of the is- land to the reputed anchorage,letting go as soon as the bottom showed. The vessel swung round on her chain and bumped a coral razorback.We had a very narrow escape but lost the port anchor and eight fathoms of chain in getting away.Hove to on a seaward tack for the night.Rain in squalls from the SE. May 30 At dawn we found ourselves about 2 miles off the land.Started motor and proceeded to an anchorage in good light.One canoe with two excited occupants picked up on the way;we found the beach lined with people.Some came off in canoes,others swam,so that the decks were soon swarming with them. They look very much the same as the Rennellese but have different tattooing.Evidently their language is also different. Our interpreters have difficulty in conversing with them. Collecting party landed immediately but we found very few birds. We visited numerous habitations which were located at the ends of paths that led off straight central trails at right angles.The terrane is not as rough as Rennell;there is a great deal more area available for gar- den planting and a larger population on relative man-land ratio.I shot a few of the red-bellied fruit doves which are similar to those of Ren- nell.No small birds came to my calling.Coultas shot a fine Accipiter. Dr.Lambert made a sketchy census and was informed by the local committee of importance that no doctors,nor medicine,nor white men of any description were wanted on the island.He found their general health good. All on board by 5 P.M. Busy putting up specimens. May 3I Hove away anchor at 4 A.M.setting a course for Rennell.Light ESE breeze.Close to the western end of the island we picked up a canoe with two natives,one a chief of this isolated community(Mungghenua).They conversed with the two interpreters.Apparently the population at this end of the island is very small.We entered the western end of Kolugu bay at 3 P.M.A/C on leading marks to reach the best anchorage and came to in 10 fathoms. We spent the rest of the day developing photographs but with very poor results. Weather fine and clear;wind fell toward evening. June I Eyerdam and several collectors ashore nearly all day.The only bird known to be here on Rennell and as yet uncollected is an owl,evidently a Spiloglaux. Coultas taking photographs and myself busy preparing the engine for te-morrow's departure. Hunters returned about 4 o'clock which gave us work until 8 P.M. ESE wind off the land during night- clear and cool except for one rain squall. June 2 Hove up 7 A.M.after clearing the decks of all natives many of whom wanted to accompany us.Proceeded out of the bay making for eastern end of the island.We rounded the eastern cape at 2:30 P.M.and stopped the motor.All sails set with the wind from the E and ESE.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

June 5 Having spent last night anchored at Aola on the Guadalcanal coast we arrived in Tulagi to-day at 2:30P.M.and made fast alongside Carpenter's wharf to take in fresh water. Landed Dr.Lambert's gear and got back to anchorage by 4:30. Showers at night. June 6-15 During this period the vessel remained anchored in Tulagi harbor. Much business was done by Coultas with the Government and Burns Philp to enable the "France" to get away to Samarai where she will be pulled up on a slip for repairs.Eyderdam spent a week in the hospital with very bad malaria.Three Solomon boys were signed on for a year's service and deposit paid for their return.I put in a lot of time working on the motor and assisting in general work about the ship.No collecting was accomplished. June 16 Obtained clearance and made adieux ashore.Vessel away for Samarai at 2:15 P. M.All sails set with smart SE breeze.Stopped motor at 3:30 P.M.All hands have to stand two-man watches of four hours each with the exception of the captain and the cook. The trip across proved uneventful but for two days of bad weather toward the last of it;only good fortune carried us through without mishap.We anchored the "France" in Samarai about noon on June 23rd. June 24-July 17 During this period the vessel was pulled up on the slip of J.R. Clay & Company and her copper sheathing repaired.It was found that the outer stern-tube bearing was cracked and projecting out of its setting which necessitated the drawing of the shaft and the fitting of a new one.I assisted the engineer with this work.The vessel was on the ways from July 5-to 13.No worm or rot was found in the hull and about 50 sheets of copper were renewed,all the old ones oxidized to the thinness of paper.Additional work on the deck was carried on during my absence on a collecting trip to Misima Is. Captain Burrell was finally dismissed and sent to Sydney on the SS"Morinda"which left Samarai on July 7th.I sent a radio to Capt.T.R. Lang,former Captain of the "France" in effort to obtain replacement.Fortunately he proved available at the reasonable figure of 34 pounds a month;he will join the ship in about two week's time. Permits were obtained to collect on Misima(St.Aignan Is.)for Mr. Riddall and myself from the Government Secretary at Port Moresby and we left Samarai on July 17th on the AV"Yela Gili"at II:40 A.M.and anchored for the night at "Tubi Tubi",a small island in the Calvados Chain.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

July 18th, 1930 Hove up at 6:15 A.M. and vessel under weigh[illegible] by 6:30 with course steering for Conflict Group punching into a choppy sea all the way which makes this little ship jump about. Sighted Panasesa Island about 10:30 A.M. Crossed Emerald Reef. Anchored in lee of Panesesa Island at 2:30 P.M. Riddall, Charlie and I out collecting until dark. This land was previously worked in May, 1929. Additional species--Merops ornatus, two ospreys, Cinniris. Mr. Hutchinson reports finches on uninhabited islands. Plenty of terns about--lesser sooties and small white sumatras. No shore birds this time of year. Atoll terrane typical. Putting up birds (15) until 10:30 P.M. Slept ashore with host. Weather fine and clear for a change. Strong SE at night. July 19th, 1930 On board by 6 A.M. and anchor aweigh and course set for Deboyne Group. Passed Torlesse Group by 11:30 A.M. Panietta and Misima in sight. Inside lagoon (Deboyne) making good progress. Anchored off Nivani Island at 2:30. Landed all our gear and stores at Mr. Munt's place. Walked around Nivani with gun but saw nothing of interest: Cockatoo, Com. Red Parrot, Halc., Sancta, Zosterops, Haliaster indus, Cinniris , Plover (Charad. dom.) Slept on AV "Kiribi", after dining with Mr. Munt (Drummond & Leather). Saw numerous noddy terns and white sumatras. Weather fine and clear throughout. Wind from SE has been unusually strong during night for past few nights. Spots of rain but good sleeping. July 20th, 1930 Made ready with all gear embarked after a good breakfast. Left Nivani about 11 A.M. and crossed Deboyne Lagoon clearing East Passage by 12:20 and thence through a heavy sea. The small cutter very wet and tossed about. Numerous noddies about, some apparently in immature plumage. Arrived in Bwaga Bwaga Bay and ship tied up to bank. Landed our stuff and got settled in a rest house. Wrote letter to R. M. SED at Bwagacia and enclosed permits and GS letter. Mail leaves by VC for Government Station. Weather fine and clear with fresh ESE wind. Some rain intermittently. No collecting done.

July 21st, 1930 Riddall, myself and Charlie out hunting from 8 A.M. until 3:30 P.M. I first dispatched mail to R. M. at Bwagaia. The terrane is a substratum of coraline limestone and broken porphyry which is washed down the gullies and stream beds. Kui-tau, the highland to the westward--3400 feet. Stanley called the top very old--primary formation, the island elevated by subsequent upheavals; these can be seen in bluff terraces along cliff front behind brief foreshore. Saw few birds during forenoon on account of wind, rain and clouds. Cleared up after lunch. Altogether, we returned some dozen birds of six species. Bird population not large--something like Rossel Is. Busy putting them up until 10 P.M. Weather continued fine from 12 A. M. This place has a reputation for daily rainfall. July 22nd, 1930 Riddall and Charlie and one local policeman (VC) who accompanied me yesterday, took the guns out today. I stayed in camp to prepare the remaining specimens and get the labels up to date. Finished by 10:30 A.M. Wrote notes. Purchased considerable native food of excellent quality and some eggs. Riddall, Charlie and the local VC returned about 2:30 with a half dozen birds, of which three are new to the collection. The policeman got only one bee-eater, badly mangled. Few of the natives show any aptitude for shooting. Put up the birds and had a hearty supper entirely of fresh food. Weather fine until 3 P.M. when rain began to fall continuing intermittently throughout the night. July 23rd, 1930 Rain kept us indoors until about 9:30 when it cleared somewhat. Riddall, Charlie and self out until 3 P.M. Shot a long-tailed dove and the first Myzomela. For this day 15 specimens put up including a flying fox. I collected land shells of three species for W. J. E. and several species of highly colored stick-insects. Experienced usual rough terrane. At work putting up birds until 10 P.M. leaving several for tomorrow--one Corvus and the common hawk--Haliaster indus. No rain during afternoon but heavy downpour at night. July 24th, 1930 Three natives out shooting. Charlie, the boat's crew of "France" from Ysabel is the poorest hunter of all. Riddall and self worked on birds until 2 P.M. He skins them out for me to make up. Hunters returned at 4 P.M. with 15 birds, adding another specimen. A squad of women came across the island from Siak Bay laden with provender for sale.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

(July 24th-continued) Continued work on birds until 9:30 P. M. Two specimens of small flying fox returned and a female Myzomela. Weather fine and clear all day. July 25th, 1930 Three hunters out at 8:30 A.M. including Charlie of Ysabel. Riddall and self working on birds until noon when we had an interval to witness a pig-killin; eight bled and duly cooked. Obtained a few photographs. A good half of the specimens are mangled and bloody in part so that more time is required in preparation. Several Myzomela negrita returned. We sat until 10 P.M. putting up. Rain came down in torrents during the night. The day was fine throughout although overcast.the first twelve hours of daylight. Self suffering from pain in left lung, evidently a [illegible] touch of [illegible]. July 26th, 1930 Heavy rain throughout night and up til 1l A.M. We finished the birds and I went over check-list with the locals but can only discover four that we have not yet taken. There are others, certainly, including the white-eye (Zost. aignani) which has not been encountered as yet. Sent off three hunters at noon when weather cleared. Pain in lung worse this morning due to wet weather, I suppose. Rain commenced again at 2 P.M. and continued throughout the afternoon to evening only varying in intensity occasionally. No success in the field --only three common species shot, one cockatoo for locality. Put them up and continued to listen to rainfall in bad humor. Rain all night. July 27th, 1930 Unable to go out due to heavy rains which continued all day. AV Kiribi with Mr. Munt aboard arrived at 3 P.M. from Nivani. He departed for Bwagaoia at 3:30 due back on Tuesday evening. Found large eel washed out of nearby river undoubtedly of wide distribution for I have seen the same in Solomon rivers about 3½ feet long with two feelers or short outgrowths at nostrils, thick lips and serrated teeth in rows in both jaws, white belly, streaky, mottled olivaceous green and grey upperside and flanks; I know not how to skin it and preserve it. Rain continued throughout night. July 28th, 1930 Three natives out with guns despite continued rain which let up about 2 P.M. Hunters returned late with only l2 birds all common. The land rail is only the common Dophyrin which is considered a pest by the natives as at Rennell and Bellona. Worked on them until about 9:30. Wind fresh from ESE with tendency to clear weather up a little. Rain intermittent during evening. Mission ketch, J. R. Williams arrived from Salamo-Fergusson Is.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

July 29th, 1930 Three hunters out again. Weather cleared about 10 A.M. and sun came out. This is the second decent day since our arrival. Finished two birds left over and started packing for departure. Hunters returned ten specimens by carrier at 1 P.M. and started us working. Several more came in later. Mr. Munt's AV Kiribi came in at 6 P.M. We went off and had dinner with him. Returned to finish birds which kept us until 10 P. M. Weather clear with fresh SE wind throughout night. The usual small sumatras and noddies common about the lagoon. July 30th, 1930 Embarked all our gear on board the "Kiribi" and set out for Nivani at 9 A. M. Arrived and anchored at 12:30 and went ashore for lunch. Went across to Pani Pompom Isl. for an hour's collecting but was hampered by lack of big cartridges. Shot a few white-eyes and honey-suckers. Put them up on board the little ship which is our house while we are here. Weather fine and clear with wind SE. One squall during night. July 31st, 1930 Had an early breakfast and got over to Pani Pompom Is. by 9 A.M. for a little hunting. Shot some Pachyaphala and two good male Ptilinopus rivolii and the common flycatcher. The terrane is excellent for collecting, the ground being rocky and somewhat sparsely timbered. Returned to Nivani Is. by 11 A.M. and had a light lunch before embarking on AV "Matoma" which came to anchor shortly. The captain departed almost immediately for the Conflict Group where we anchored for the night in lee of an outlying island. Busy putting up birds all afternoon on board. Numerous terns sighted; resting grounds undoubtedly in the vicinity. Weather fine and clear throughout. August 1st, 1930 Vessel shifted to Panesesa Is., to load copra. Both Riddall and myself sent ashore to collect hoping to get another kingfisher but were unsuccessful, having no adequate ammunition. Took much needed baths at the manager's house and returned on board. Sailed for Samarai at 7 P. M. making slow progress during night due to counter current and heavy cargo load. Weather fine throughout night. Wind SE and SSE. August 2nd, 1930 Arrived and anchored in Samarai harbor at 10:30 A.M. Disembarked all gear and placed it in Clay's store. Met Coults who came across in the slip launch. Had lunch at the hotel and returned per launch to Belesana. Here I met Capt. Lang who has been here since July 26th. All repair work has been finished to the satisfaction of Coults and the vessel can proceed to Samarai anytime. Weather fine and clear throughout. Took birds over to ship and put them out for further drying. No collecting done.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

364 August 3rd, 1930 Spent the day quietly over at the slip.Belesana. Weather fine and clear throughout. Eyerdam has made a remarkable collection of corals and seashells. No birds collected in this locality on this occasion. Worked on motor during afternoon making ready to take ship over to Samarai tomorrow. August 4th, 1930 Unable to get off until 10 A.M. when we hove up and proceeded out into straits. Anchored off the port at 10:40. SS Elveric of Glasgow in port loading for Singapore. Eyerdam intends to leave by this vessel on the 6th. Ashore on business and retreived material returned from Misima trip out of storage. Worked on motor during afternoon, having blown out a safety air plate on charging line during run across. Overhauled and tuned up compressor set. No collecting done. Weather fine and clear all day with numerous southerly squalls during night. August 5th, 1930 Anchored off Samarai Is. I worked on motor part of the day with Riddall to instruct him for his job of taking the driving over to Tulagi. Enquired about passage to Sydney ashore and find I can leave by either Morinda on the 8th or the Montoro on the 14th. Eyerdam embarked on boad the SS Elveric in the evening after a little dinner at the hotel. No collecting done. Weather fine and clear throught. Fresh trades ESE. August 6th to 8th, 1930 During this time, I finished up my work on the ship and imparted as much knowledge as possible to Riddall about the motor. I packed up all my miscellaneous belongings of three years on the "France" and having made my adieux ashore, departed per SS Morinda at 12 A.M. Friday, August 8th.

IN RE CABLE ADDRESS "MUSEOLOGY NEW YORK" WHITNEY SOUTH SEA EXPEDITION THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 77TH STREET AND CENTRAL PARK WEST NEW YORK CITY MUSEUM COMMITTEE L. C. SANFORD, M.D., CHAIRMAN FRANK M. CHAPMAN, SC.D. H. E. GREGORY PH.D. R. C. MURPHY, D.SC. FIELD REPRESENTATIVE HANNIBAL HAMLIN, PH.B.

Bougainville Is., South Coast - Buin District July 20-27 - 1929 The only extensive lowland littoral on Bougainville.Hills of approx. 1000-1500 feet close around Tenolai harbor(Sk point of the island).Thence westward around the southern and southwestern edge of the land(about 50 miles of coastline)- low,flat country reaches inland from 15 to 20 miles. It is swampy in many places,especially southwestward from the high moun- tains(Siwai & Banoni dists.).Numerous small rivers drain the southern wa- tershed of the Kronprinzen Gebirge.The land is covered with dense seconda vegetation everywhere,interspersed with great trees of several species;th smaller bush,generally thicker and more difficult to penetrate,is predom- nant:groves of small trees about 30 or 40 feet in height,brakes of wild cane along the river banks,and no grassland worthy of mention;native gar- dens in number,the heaviest bush usually being cleared to yield the best soil- apparently the farther inland the more fertile. All species taken during the visit to Buin represent this uniform hab- tat. (note:The local patrol officer,a man of considerable experience,describe a lake he had visited up in the mountains,which can be reached from the Buin coast in two or three days.No natives living near it(or anywhere on Bougainville at this elevation)- about 3500 feet or more.The place is sup- posed toq be the habitation of a tamburan(devil,hongoblin,ogre,etc.,) and is regared with superstition by the mountain natives.Mr.Ward estimated it to be about 7 miles long and one or two wide,regular in shape,and set in a sort of pocket formed by converging valleys and ravines.He viewed it from a commanding ridge;most of the sides were very steep to descend,rocky cliffs dropping sheer in some places around its marge.It looked to be heavy to the waters edge on all sides;no reeds or grassy marshland was discernible.This report is verified by Rev.Father J.B.Poncelet of the Marist Mission who is the only other white man who has seen it. The expedition was unable to make a camp here.) Systematic List of Species (all names in parenthesis provisional by Dr.E.Mayr) I.Mino dumontii kreifti(?) 4 2.Aplonis cantoroides 4 3.Aplonis metallicus subsp. 4 4.(Aplonis giganteus) 13 5.Myzomela(fuscivacea) 1 6.Cinnyris jugularis flavigatra 3 7.Dicaeum sp. subsp. 5 8.Zosterops(chrysolema)subp. 15 9.Monarcha(leucophthalmus) 21 10.Monarcha(arses) 5 11.Monarcha(menadensis) 6 12.Rhipidura(albapunctata) 9 13.Rhipidura tricolor meialeuca 1 14.Rhipidura rufifrons commada 1 15.Graucalus lineatus subsp. 4 16.Graucalus(nigrescens) 1 17.Graucalus papuensis subsp. 7 18.Edolisoma(schisticeps) 8 19.Pitta(meeki) 4 20.Collocalia fuciphaga vanikorensis 2

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21.Hemiprocne mystacea woodfordiana 3 22.Eurystomus orientalis subsp. I 23.Ninox sp. subsp. 2 24.Alcedo atthis subsp. I 25.Alcyone(sibilans) 2 26.Alcedo(pallidus) I 27.Halcyon(salomonensis) 1 28.Halcyon(kaloproktos) 2 29.Chalcites malayanus subsp. 3 30.Chalcites lucidus plagiosus I 31.Eudynamis scolopacea subsp. I (scolopacea) 32.(Eos sp.) I 33.Cacatoes sp. subsp. 2 34.Micropygia(parva) . 2 35.Micrositta sp. subsp. 9 36.Lorius pectoralis salomonensis 3 37.Geoffroyus sp. subsp. 4 38.Pandion haliaetus subsp. I 39.Baza subscreditata subsp.(?) I 40.Accipiter hiegaster subsp. I 41.Anas superciliosa pelewensis I 42.Ptilinopus(emrythrothorax) 3 43.Ptilinopus superbus superbus I 44.Ducula(lobata) I 45.Chalcophaps stephani mortoni 3 46.(Megacrex) I 47.Porphyrio sp. subsp. I 48.Megapodius reinwardt subsp. I Species seen but not collected Hirundo tahitica - not taken Rhyticeros plicatus mendanae (taken on Boug'ville prev Halcyon sancta - "not taken" Cacomantis malayanus subsp. taken " Trichoglossus haematodus subsp. taken"- "." Halcyon albicilla saurophagus - not taken Ducula(grisea) taken Tringa hypoleucos taken Sterna dougallii bangsi not taken

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