(59) December 30 No carriers appeared on account of heavy rain.I started out for Kupei with a tultul who arrived from somewhere and we met all the Kupei men on the trail.I returned and the tultul went on to stir up other villages.The Doc decided to carry on to Kupei by himself to break ground.In the afternoon a note,written in burnt-match on newspaper in- formed us that Kupei was only about four miles distant-"Come on".Willing carriers miraculously appeared,the monkeys grabbed the smaller stuff, and we were off.We were forced to leave a box of food,a bag of rice,and two packed benzine tins;these will be guarded by two of our personal boys and brought up in the morning.We reached Kupei in time for evening kai-kai.The Doc had fixed up the old house kiup with a ladder and a sac-sac(leaves sewn together)wind-break to shelter the sleeping compart- ment which was open to the weather when he arrived.A smaller house stands across the trail which we shall use as a laboratory,cook-shack,and boy's sleeping quarters.The altitude is only 2300 feet but from here on the trail goes right up incessantly to the top.Kupei village is located on an opposite ridge,voiding us of all pigs,children,and smells. The view is very fine- Arawa bay and the peninsular that shelters Kieta. Water from a cold mountain stream is close by.The kukurai of Kupei was loath to have us stay at first.Through the tultul he told the Doc that there were no birds about and that we had better stay at Kaino.By much diplomacy and the present of a bush knife,the old man warmed up to our visit and even sent over some cooked taro.The boys of Kupei are a stur- dy lot and should make fine bird-retreivers.The prevailing cost of car- riers was one mark per man for each trek.Many who were on the ends of extra heavy boxes demanded two,which they got- mean pay considering the condition of the trail.One stretch went up beside a waterfall for about a hundred feet sheer.The government patrol pays them sixpence and they can do nothing but accept it.Since it is so important to acquire their coooperation we gave them tobacco as well and they went away happy.All the men of Kupei visited us before nightfall.There were a dozen old men- most picturesque,sans clothes,sans teeth,sans everything.Except the in- evitable clay pipe.Besides Kupei there are three villages on correspond- ing ridges all within a radius of a half mile.The night made one think of Vermont or the Adirondacks,so cold and clear. December 31 Collecting officially commenced this morning.