The diary of Edmund Heller, October 9, 1917-January 12, 1918 : covering his return trip from the First Asiatic Expedition led by Roy Chapman Andrews of the American Museum of Natural History.

Heller, Edmund, 1875-1939

1917

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Heller Edmund 1875-1939 Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition (1st : 1916-1917) Mammals

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Special Coll. THE DIARY OF EDMUND HELLER October 9, 1917 - January 12, 1918 Covering his return trip from the First Asiatic Expedition, lead by Roy Chapman Andrews, of the American Museum of Natural History, New York City. Edited and Transcribed by Frederic A. Sharf. Computer disc and hard copy prepared by Carol Baird Rich. ****************************************************** Heller returned from the Expedition by himself. This Diary starts in Shanghai. Heller then proceeded to Peking, Seoul, Yokohama, Tokyo, Honolulu, San Francisco, Chicago, and finally returned to his office at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City. His observations en route are recorded in this Diary. ****************************************************** Also in Special Coll. The original Diary is contained in a black leather, loose-leaf, 3 ring notebook, with 120 pages of text in Heller's writing, and 12 pages of various names and addresses. This Diary is a gift to the Library of the American Museum of Natural History from Jean S. & Frederic A. Sharf LIBRARY OF THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

October 9, 1917 The Consul invited us to a house boat party on Wednesday. The Fall weather is clear and crisp and delightfully stimulating. Finance in China, as conducted by the European Banks which control the country, is a raw deal. All values are based on the Tael, which is not a coinage system, but a mythical affair in the shape of an ounce of silver. After your gold is converted into tael at the usual discount of (4 or 5%) it must be again converted into Mexican or local Chinese dollars at another 4 or 5% discount. The Chinese have tried to regulate their own coinage through Chinese banks, but the European Banks are too strong for them. A common vehicle on the streets of Shanghai is the wheel barrow. A single Chinaman trudges along behind the barrow which has a great wheel in the center covered by a stage so that the cargo does not touch the wheel. Loads of merchandise and even lumber are carried on the barrows.

October 10, 1917 Consul General Sammons (Thomas Sammons - USA Consul in Shanghai) entertained a party of Americans on a house boat today and I joined in at his invitation. Bumstead and wife went with me. (Dale Bumstead of Oak Park, Illinois) - (President of Chicago Camp Fire Club). On the boat which lay at garden bridge in Soo Chow Creek, we met the other members: Mr. and Mrs. Bryant of the Far Eastern Review (P.L. Bryant - Editor); the U.S. Postmaster with his wife and daughter, Mr. E.H. Everett; Mr. and Mrs. Whiffles of the Bureau of Commerce and Labor; Messrs Jones; Miss Smith; and Mr. Sammons whose wife is at present in America. The day was greatly overcast and much of the reflection was thus avoided. After winding our way slowly up Soo Chow Creek amid the Chinese boats loaded with cotton, flour, vegetables, eggs, silk worm cocoons etc., we returned to head up the river following the Bund past much shipping as far as the outskirts of the town to the arsenal where we turned about and followed down the other shore and crossed over to the Bund again. We reached our starting place at Soo Chow Creek at 4 pm.

October 11, 1917 Most of my time was occupied in packing my trunks for through shipment to Yokohama. After tiffin, I went with the Bumsteads to a gun store where we were told by the manager that the Chinese Government did not allow them to keep only a few guns for sale at a time, but most of their stock must be kept in the Government warehouse where permission to extract guns on their sale was given by the Government. Shotgun shells (Peters Loaded) were $8.00 Mexican per 100 which is not high landed here. From the gun store, we went to the Chinese fur shops on Hunan Road. Most of the furs are said to come from Manchuria. All were well trimmed. They had a series of fine skins of snow leopards with the claws attached for $30.00 to $40.00 Mexican. Highly colored orange tigers were $150.00 Mexican. White or gray wolf skins of large size were $15.00 to $20.00 Mexican. There were common leopard robes, made of large rivet cat, red fox, land otter, martin, weasel and gray squirrel. I saw no flying squirrel skins and the merchant said there were none in the market. In one shop we saw a cost made up of a light fulvous mink with the tails protruding for $150.00 Mexican, only these mink were much lighter than any North American species and pretty. A few dark brown bear with silver tipped hair were also on sale.

October 12, 1917 I spent the afternoon at the library of the Asiatic Society in the Natural History Museum building. The library is small, but well arranged and cared for by Chinese assistants who talk English well. They have a good card catalogue, by authors and subjects. I found quite a number of books which were new to me on Yunnan, some in French and German, as well as English. T.K.K. CO. Forwarded on October 12, 1917 3 Fiber Trunks 137, 150, 156 1 1 Fiber Telescope 1 Steel Trunk 3 Bags (2 Brown, 1 White) 8 Pieces

October 13, 1917 The steamer Tungchow, C.N.C. sailed at 10am from the French Bund for Tientsin. Bryant, the Editor of the Far Eastern Review, was down to see us off and gave me a letter of introduction to a Peking friend. He spoke of Stern's work in excavating ancient buried cities in Desert China. Bumstead and wife are the only people I know on board. We cast off our moorings at 10 am and steamed down the Whangpo in a fresh north wind and clear bright sky. A large French Messangieres Steamer followed us out. At Wusung, we saw the large Empress of Asia at anchor waiting to proceed to America this afternoon. We crossed the mouth of the Yangtse behind the shelter of some large, low islands in the mouth. The son of the sea of Yangtse is very wide and it was not until 4pm that we reached the North side and passed the small, high island, with its white light house crowning the apex. The Yangtse is a uniform red brown muddy stream. Sea birds were quite lacking, - the only birds in sight being a few brown kites.

October 14, 1917 The sea has been beautifully smooth today; the sun bright; and the water deep blue; but no sea birds have appeared on this calm scene. One of the remarks Bumstead has made about Wallace's book on Big Game in China which I loaned him is why didn't the expedition carry a tent and live in it instead of getting stuck in cramped caves for long rain spells. Hartmann made the same remark about the book. One of the ladies on board has a beautiful gray squirrel coat, made of Manchurian squirrels in Peking for 250 Taels, made by a local furrier. It is a very pretty coat although now 5 seasons old. This evening, Bumstead showed me several land birds which had taken refuge on the boat. There were a pair of yellow winged finches, babbling thrushes, all migratory birds I have no doubt.

October 15, 1917 This morning at 6am, we steamed into the harbor of Wei-Hai-Wei and dropped anchor about 1/2 mile off the port, as there is no dock at this station. The harbor is a beautifully land locked one, encircled by a tall line of sharp, bare peaks. The water is deep and clear sea green. Back of the sand beach, the land slopes up to the hills, and the town (British) occupies the rising ground near the west entrance. The old Chinese town with its Great Wall encircling it occupies the head of the bay where the land is low and level. The beach line looked beautifully sandy and fine for bathing. A large garrison of native troops under British officers were stationed in barracks near the West entrance. Junks and Sampans with crews of fishermen were scattered over the bay and sea beyond. The hills were bare yellow granite or gneiss with a few scrubby green brushes thinly scattered about. A few large white gulls were sitting on the surface of the bay and further out, the cormorants sat in rows on exposed rocks. The summer cottages and school houses looked very comfortable and European. Leaving Wei-hai-wei at 7pm, we steamed up the coast to Cheefu where we dropped anchor 4 hours later at 11pm. The eastern side of the entrance is protected by a long line of low yellow rocky hills which extend far out into the blue sea and are continued at their tip by a further small yellow island of linear shape. The Captain told us of a Japanese steamer which went ashore on this point in a heavy snow storm last Winter. The boat mistook one of the gaps in the sharp peaks for the entrance and ran

October 15, 1917 - (continued) straight ashore where the surface dashed over the boat and froze. A whole cluster of Chinese passengers who had climbed up the mast to save themselves were there frozen stiff into a solid block of ice, as no relief could reach the ship through the storm. These Chinese remained for days frozen in the ice on the mast. Cheefu has a foreign appearance as regards to its large, several storied houses. Back of it rose a series of high, semi-bare, but terraced hills. Many sampans came out to our steamer bearing large red and yellow apples, russet pears, red grapes, pomegranates, peanuts etc. At least 50% of these Chinamen still bore cues and the same sort of appendage had been noticeable in Wei-hai-wei. From Shanghai south, however, I saw practically no cues, but these northerners have not yet discarded theirs.

October 16, 1917 At breakfast time we were steaming up the muddy waters of the Gulf of Pechili through the arid debris carried down by the Hwang Ho which is now in flood and has broken its banks and drowned hundreds of Chinese south of Tientsin. We reached the sandbar at 10am and dropped anchor to await high tide for crossing. The Captain said that in mid-Winter, the bay and approach to Taku are frozen over and vessels must break through it for a month or more. I was surprised that it is so cold so far south as this bay considering how tropical Hong Kong is at no great distance south. The bar has recently silted up and now only a very shallow draft vessel can cross. The Tungchow discharged all her cargo into lighters to allow her to cross, but at 2pm it was very windy and the water too shallow so we remained at anchor for the whole day, but will cross tonight at 3am at high tide. The shore line with a few buildings near Taku is just visible.

October 17, 1917 This morning at 3am, the steamer crossed the bar and at daylight, we were anchored in the Pei-ho River opposite Taku, but disembarked at Tangku² RR Station and took the train to Tientsin. This was a two hour ride and we passed en route through the flooded district and saw villages and houses standing in three or four feet of muddy water. The refugees were gathered in cane huts along the RR embankment and in those cities that were on high ground and had escaped. The top of millet, heavy with grain, were to be seen all along the way, but this grain had hot yet been harvested. On reaching Tientsin, we went at once to find Somerby at the Tientsin Times & Gazette, where he is now holding down the editorial chair. We found him a live man of 40 years, the sort that is capable of carrying through any enterprise. He lunched with us at the Imperial Hotel and then we took rickshaws for a ride to his house out in the submerged part of town. Halfway to his house, we changed our rickshaw for a boat and poled along the flooded streets to his house, the basement of which was under water and three feet of water stood in his dooryard. About half of Tientsin is in this aquatic state. He showed us his trophies. He had three sheep heads on the wall from North Shansai of Ovis Jubata, the maned sheep and one of the heaviest horned sheep in the world. He had a white Takin from Kansu (Budarras Bedfordi) which is a distinct white race. He showed us the body skin which was also pure white and used as a rug.

October 17, 1917 - (continued) He said no other color existed in this Northernmost range of the Takin. He had about the house a spotted Chinese wildcat which was as tame as any kitten and could be stroked by anyone. He showed us a series of jerboa skins, chipmunks, mice, ew_ apodemus, hamsters, flying squirrels, spermophiles, bats etc. Somerby gave me two recent papers of his on Pere Hende's mammal names which he has been recently concerned with at Li-kai-wei and is the first naturalist to actually examine the type specimens and material gathered by the Jesuit Father. Somerby is a fine type of sportsman, devoted to natural history and in love with the excitement of the chase, a real savage possessed of the noblest sentiments of a hunter. His books on Chinese game are filled with evidence of his intense enthusiasm and love of the chase and natural history. His wife had some pet birds of various sorts in a cage, but said that the Chinese servants showed no interest or kindness towards pet animals and could not be trusted to feed them. This lack of sympathy seems to be characteristic of the Chinese. At 4:45pm we took the train for Peking. Tientsin has a foreign appearance, owing to the rows of European houses and business shops. There is a British, French, Japanese, Italian, and German section, with streets named in these languages. The RR trip to Peking was through fields of millet with sunken or flooded fields at intervals. We reached Peking at 8pm and took room in the Wagon Lit Hotel near the station in the Legation section of the Tartar City, just inside the Great Wall.

October 18, 1917 Being short of cash, I called on Mr. Robert Rankin, Manager of Andersen, Meyer & Co. to whom Clark had given me a letter. (B. Preston Clark, 55 Kilby Street, Boston - E.H. Hartmann) He was very hospitable and endorsed my check without hesitation and asked me to lunch. His house is a new one, surrounded by a large compound. He is a Cornell man and a good friend of Louis Fuertes.3 His wife was a good sort. Rankin was a passenger on the Lusitania when she was sunk. He was on the deck and saw the torpedo strike and then he jumped overboard without a life preserver and was picked up by a life boat. He said the story of passengers being sucked into the smoke stack and then blown out by the explosion was untrue. One woman claimed this feat but she was covered with soot as proof and all of them were equally soot covered owing to the sea being thus covered generally. He said this particular woman became insane and jumped overboard after being put into a lifeboat. One of the sights of Peking is to be obtained from the Great Wall marking the Tartar City. At 3pm, I went with Mrs. Bumstead to the observatory which is situated on the East Wall, a spot where a stairway of stone steps leads to the top. The instruments of the observatory were of bronze mounted on stone bases in the open. There was a sphere with stars and milky way indicated; a giant sextant marked in degrees was another instrument. Several bands or circles of bronze set at various angles but on a common axis. There is a cleared space about the wall on its inner side for military purposes. 12

October 18, 1917 - (continued) Peking is an exceptionally clean Chinese City, free from offensive odors as far as the Tartar City and its enclosing cities, the Imperial and the Forbidden. The Chinese City is said to be smelly, but our visit there was in no way annoying and there was no evidence of filth, such as is seen in Amoy, Fuchow or Canton. Here I saw one rude boy about ten years old. Although the weather is chilly now, several good size dogs were stalking about. We ascended to the top of the Wall and walked along its top. It is made of huge gray bricks and the top is 30 feet wide and covered by a rank growth of weeds and thorny ______ brushes. At the corners of the Wall are great pagoda gates built in several stories. The Wall itself is immense, being 50 feet high, 40 feet wide, and a four foot wall of masonry on its outer surface, notched for guns or rifle fire. From the southern wall, we could see all over the native Chinese city and down into the R.R. which borders the southern edge of the Wall. Soldiers of all nations are seen doing guard duty in the Legation section of Peking near the Wagon-Lits Hotel. I dined with Bumstead and several Americans at the Hotel. There was Mr. and Mrs. Hopkins of Peking; Mr. Seitz or Sites of U.S. Steel Co; Mr. Rory, the Bureau of Commerce and Labor, and a member of the Cosmos Club; Mr. A.W. Ferrin, who is investigating financial conditions for the U.S. Government; and 2 other men. Mr. F.R. Rhead, a Cosmos Club member is investigating R.R. in China for the U.S.A. Another member of the party was H. Foster Bain, a mining engineer from California.

October 19, 1917 The days are clear and dry and the weather bracing but not cold, even at night, only comfortable. At 10am, we started from the Wagon-Lits Hotel with a Cook's guide in rickshaws for the Forbidden City. First, we went to the Winter Palace, which is open by special pass to visitors. Here Yuan Shi-hai held his court recently. The way led along wide streets, 60 feet wide, which are now the rule in Peking. The Winter Palace is situated on a high hill in the Tartar City, just on the borders of the Forbidden City and a few hundred yards from Coal Hill, a higher hill topped by a Temple and reserved for the use of the Emperors. The Winter Palace is reached by a series of marble stairways up the steep hill through the temples. At the top, a large pagoda with a golden dome stands dominant. At the base of the hill is a vast pond or a lake covered by lotus lilies and spreads practically about the hill and is crossed by marble bridges of several spans in two places. From the summit of the hill at the Pagoda base, Peking spreads out in all directions, but the traveler is bewildered to find that only a vast forest of trees is spread out before him with an occasional Pagoda or gate looming up amid the green. Peking is virtually hidden by its trees, which are features of all its compounds, and as it is a city of magnificent distances, the trees dominate. The forest trees on the hill were chiefly juniper, with yellow pine a peculiar variety white barked pine, ash (acacia) trees and willows about all the lakes and streams.

October 19, 1917 - (continued) From the Winter Palace, we descended through a tunnel in the limestone rocks to the borders of the lake where a fine marble promenade flanked the water with a row of compartments where dwelt the numerous wives or concubines of the Emperors in former times. This building was highly ornate and extended the whole length (200 yards) of the promenade. The walls and ceiling were ornamented in gay Chinese painting of landscapes, hunting, fishing, and domestic scenes. About Noon, we entered the Forbidden City through its pink or red wall. Within it is quiet, without much human life. The buildings were gay with golden yellow-tiled roofs, green and blue gables, and white marble approaches and courts. Some of the buildings were covered by green tiles. The scene was extremely colorful, and a painter of a color photo could only give one an idea of its brilliance. The place was cut through by a moat, covered thickly by a pea green duck weed, crossed by marble bridges, and flagged by marble blocks. We visited the Museum which contains rare treasures of art of the Royal families, like cloissone, porcelain, ivories, bronzes, lacquer, silk rugs, arms etc. The Museum was spotlessly clean, the exhibits in fine glass cases and well labeled in Chinese characters. Every object was bright and attractive and the place was roped off so that visitors had to proceed in one direction and could not collide. Some of the Chinese rugs were wonderful affairs, soft in color and rich in material. An emperor's saddle was studded by several hundred pearls. One of the curios exhibits was a drum made of two human skulls, sewn

October 19, 1917 - (continued) through and across these were stretched human skin as a sounding medium. Models of fruits and flowers on their trees were made of precious stones of various colors, the leaves made of silver wire and plate colored green. After tiffin at 3pm, we took rickshaws through the Chinese City and visited the Temple of Heaven which is situated in a huge court of 100 acres, covered by grass and trees, and without buildings or people. The marble columns and stage of the Temple are beautiful. Nearby is a pagoda of Pranger. On our way back, the guide told us that the Emperor visited this temple only once a year to pray for a successful reign - to God or Buddha. On our way back, we saw the Chinese trying out or for ______ ponies near one of the walls. The ponies were being ridden at a fast single-trot past a crowd of spectators. We stopped in a fur shop near the south wall, where a large stock of furs and coats was shown us. Coats made of Martin for one $2,000.00 to $1000 in price were shown. Wildcat, gray squirrel etc. were much less. - $20.00 usually. Leopard skins were $30.00 to $40.00. Foxes of many colors were shown us, - red, cross, gray, white etc.

October 20, 1917 At 8:15am, I left the hotel with the Bumsteads in a motor car for the Hsi Chi Mon Station, situated four miles away at the N.W. gate of the Tartar City. We had a pleasant ride in the crisp, cold air in a Ford car of growling inerds. The trip up by train was over level fields which were being plowed for wheat or winter crops. In the distance, at starting, could be seen a Pagoda topping a hill and nearby the Summer Palace on another hill. In one hour, we reached Hankou City and from that point rugged mountains came into view. The station of Ching Lung Chiao was our place of embarkation for the Pass. Before reaching this station, we had passed by a tunnel under the Great Wall which could be seen topping the hills in a zig zag course. After taking tiffin at Ching Lung Chiao, we walked to the Pass, some 2 miles beyond. The RR here does a switchback and at Nankow Pass actually passes through a tunnel at the head of the divide. The Great Wall is seen at Hanchu Pass, zig zagging over the hills into the blue at the Pass itself. The caravan road passes under the Wall through double gates. Here we saw a donkey and mule caravan and coolies with loads, passing through. The mountains and hills here are rugged and composed of granite - great boulders of which hang on the hill sides. The Wall is built here of granite, topped by a few feet of gray bricks raised into a parapet and wall notched for gunners.

October 20, 1917 - (continued) Beyond, some 20 miles away on the horizon, could be seen a range of blue mountains on the summits of which patches of snow could be seen with field glasses. The snow fields were old banks, which are doubtless permanent. No forests could be seen on the mountains, which appeared grass covered. The hill sides were clothed in dried grass and herbs, some dandelions and [illegible] were in flower and clematis and iris were seen in seed. There were flocks of sheep and a few goats visible, but nowhere was the grass closely cropped by cattle. Willows lined the roads and the crops seen were turnips, cabbages, millet, and beans. We returned to Peking after dark.

October 21, 1917 This morning was cloudy, or foggy rather, and more comfortable than the dry, glary sunshine of the past week. At the zoo and Botanic Gardens, we found a giant Chinaman as guard. He was 8 feet tall apparently, so we photographed him. His brother was a guard also and well over 6 feet tall. The animals were a few deer, wapiti axis, roe etc., a zebra, an elephant, nilgar, leopard, jaguar, lion, puma and birds of many species. Unfortunately, not many Chinese species were exhibited, chiefly only foreign animals. The Botanic Gardens had half a dozen labeled trees (foreign chiefly) and was a poor display for so rich a land as China in flowers and trees. The horse market, situated in a field near the Temple of Heaven, is interesting. Here are to be seen many Mongolian ponies for sale, being lead about a large ring, saddled and ready to ride. The purchaser rides, or has somebody ride the pony on a straight away course following the Wall. The gait is always a fast, even trot, or single foot, which gives the rider a steady seat. Peking cart horses are also offered and tried out here. The Peking cart is a small cart set down solidly on the axis of the wheels, which are about three feet in diameter and heavily studded on the fellows with iron balls. The cart is hooded over by a curved house of blue cloth open at the front. The wheel barrow is also a common carrier on the streets, but rickshaws are the common conveyance. It is very seldom that a sedan chair is seen in Peking. Automobiles are not common, as there are no roads outside the city where they can travel. Camel

October 21, 1917 - (continued) caravans are quite often seen, but since the RR to Kalgan and to the Mongolian border has taken possession of the freight trade, they are rarer now. The camels are great large brutes of the Bactrian type, bearing two high humps between which the saddle is securely placed. At the Great Wall, at Nankow yesterday, I was interested to see several pack trains of donkeys and mules which all carried the double packed saddle as in Yunnan, no girth being in use. An odd custom I have noticed here is the carrying of various small birds about on a stick or perch. They are fastened to the sticks by a string attached to the sternum or breast bone apparently. Finches, chickadees, pipets and other birds are thus treated. Pekinese dogs are also seen here and treated as lap dogs, being carried about in the arms as in America. Those I have seen are reddish haired and larger than our breeds. These same Chinese women who pet dogs smoke cigarettes inhaling the smoke and exhaling it through their nostrils. Chow dogs are common on the street, but are scavengers and without definite owners.

October 22, 1917 We visited fur shops again and the Bumsteads purchased a fine gray squirrel coat for $70.00 Mexican and a marmot coat of a fine golden color for $60.00. The shop had a creamy yellow short haired skin which was also made into a coat and was I presume a pole cat of sorts. In one shop I saw a fine Manchurian tiger skin with long hair for $200.00. This was a tawny ground, which is the rule in Manchurian tigers. This shop also had three fine orange-colored tiger skins of the usual short haired sort, and these were cheaper at $150.00 to $100.00 each Mexican. I saw no panda or flying squirrel skins in any of the shops, the skins here all coming from Mongolia or Manchuria, and none from southeastern Tibet where these species are found. Peking is without any Natural History Museum and is behind Shanghai in this regard. A well arranged national collection would be of much educational advantage to the Chinese. We took dinner at the Y.W.C.A. with some ten American college girls who have recently reached China to devote themselves to Y.W.C.A. work here. They were a cheerful, enthusiastic lot and of normal mind, but they have five years of work here before their first furlough home. From the Peking station, they are sent out over China, after a year study of Chinese. We hear they are thrown upon their own resources and devices. The real struggle begins in the semi-missionary work. I should think they would be much happier as wives at home!

October 23, 1917 This morning I called on George E. Morrison, the Australian who is the greatest living authority on China and the European literature concerning it. He has recently disposed of his library which was very complete to a Japanese who has it now in Tokyo. He told me of many books on Yunnan and seemed to have a vast fund of book knowledge on China. He showed me a series of pamphlets on birds and mammals by various authors, all well arranged. He is exceedingly friendly and considerate in his manner and open minded, showing no tendency to pose as an absolute authority. He is physically in fine condition and appears to be about 50 years old, but is not gray or bald or bent, but of erect carriage and ruddy complexion. He is very much interested in natural history and has a good general library of books on big game and birds. He is leaving Peking soon for Australia on six months leave. His wife and small son seven years old were at home and had a very friendly attitude to him and all his interests.

October 23, 1917 - (continued) He spoke of Sir Richard Dane, who has hunted game in East Africa, but is now away from Peking, being in Mongolia. Langdon Warner has given up his school of archaeology and returned to America or Tokyo. Dr. Morrison told me that the keeper of the zoo had lost many of the mammals originally purchased from Hagenbeck because the Chinese keepers had stolen the food from the animals and let them starve. The head keeper, a European, had gone almost insane trying to prevent this sort of cruelty. The Chinese have no such sympathy for helpless animal life as we possess. This afternoon, we visited the Central Park, a pleasure park near the Forbidden City. Here are kept a paddock of axis deer and stags, but all of the males are harmless, having had the horns sawed off when in the velvet for sale as Medicine, a profitable affair for the Park authorities. Somerby says the deer are farmed for this purpose in some localities. In the Park are tea houses, lakes, flower beds, juniper groves etc. and many better class Chinese are seen here. It was sad to note the absence of lovers in the shaded walks. The two sexes were never seen together, the women walking in pairs or trios, and the men doing likewise.

October 23, 1917 - (continued) An upper class Chinese is rarely or never seen in public with his family. From our conception of life, they miss the chief pleasure, the free association with their wives or sweethearts at all times. Women may be seen in pairs holding hands and boys likewise, but never the two opposite sexes are thus seen. The parks in China are a sad waste as far as the tender passion is concerned. Dining tonight at the hotel, Rhea took me to a table where two men were seated. One was Carroll, a Civil Engineer whom I had met in Durango, Mexico ten years ago. He remembered me well. He has been in China only one year and that in the upper Yangtse in Szhewan near Cheng-tu. Carroll is a Yale graduate and a Florida man and has only recently come out of Mexico. He is the last man I should ever expect to see in Peking.

October 24, 1917 The morning dawned in a drizzle of rain which continued until noon. In the afternoon, I went out with our guide Pei who took me to the Lhasa Tibetan Temple. At 4:30pm, there occurred a service, the _______ with their _______ or _______ chanting hymns. Some of the monks had very deep voices... In the chief temple were about 20 monks and 30 younger boys chanting..... 2 blowing long bronze horns of immense (10 feet) length resting on saw-horses.... Some 4 small boys were beating large drums and the old monks were singing and clapping cymbals. The din was terrific from the savage battery and the result discordant. One of the temples nearby is famous for a giant standing Buddha 80 feet high. On his feet a lama offers you a lighted taper with which to light a candle sacred to Buddha and which will give you good fortune. In another temple, I was shown a series of obscene Buddhas standing over prostrate women which are in the act of copulating with various animals, such as bears, pigs, dogs etc. These figures are kept robed in silk garments which are removed for men only. On one of the wide streets of Peking, a fair was in progress. Here I saw several falcons with hooded goshawks on their wrists. These birds are used here for catching hares and game birds for the market, - the price of ammunition to secured game being much greater than the marked price of the game so that hawking is the method which alone can be successfully employed today.

October 24, 1917 The lamas all wore long red robes and the boys yellow robes. The faces were often distinctly Chinese with narrow eyes and not the heavy features of the Tibetan. The characters on the Temple were Chinese, not Tibetan. There are 1000 monks here supported by the government, but under the Republic this support is decreasing. I had some difficulty in getting the guide Pei to show me the unbound feet of a bound footed woman. The only ones who will permit their feet to be seen are prostitutes. The ones we saw were simply squeezed very narrow and small with the large toe ending in a sharp point far in advance of the others, but the toes had not been bent down and turned under as I had been lead to believe. I purchased a Chinese custom long silk gray robe, purple silk trousers, black silk shoes and silk cap - all for $12.00 Mexican. Having an ulcerated tooth, I inquired for a dentist, but an American resident said there was no European dentists in Peking, only Chinese which had been educated in America. I took the 8:35pm train for Mukden and the Bumsteads saw me off.

October 25, 1917 At daylight, we were traveling through level fields of ripe millet standing 3 feet high. Chinese were harvesting this crop in many places. Some miles away, sharp rocky hills could be seen and far away higher rugged ranges. In places, the track skirted the sea where low sand dunes were seen. The morning was raining, but at noon, it cleared and the sun shown. At every station, a guard of Chinese soldiers lined up on the station platform as a guard with fixed bayonets. They looked quite good in gray uniforms. In a few stations, there were Japanese guards also. The Manchurian houses are here rounded roofed without gables or tiles, but sod covered and look quite different from Chinese houses. At Shanhaikwan Station, we passed under the Great Wall which is here part of the city wall and reaches the sea. Beyond the City only a small section can be seen crossing the plain to the high rugged ranges marking the inland horizon. The railroad runs through level fields of millet with herds of black pigs, white sheep and a few large cattle grazing. It was not an engineering feat to build this line, as there is not a deep railroad cut or a tunnel on the whole line. The only trees in the landscape were willows, a line of which bordered the R.R. Others were seen about villages and a few on the borders of ponds and small streams.

October 25, 1917 - (continued) Many streams were crossed, all shallow creeks flowing in wide sandy beds, like desert streams, only filled during the rains. Crows were the only birds seen along the whole route. These occurred in great flocks, often flying. We arrived at Mukolen at 7:30pm in the dark. The station is a wide, well arranged affair with a good Japanese hotel (Yamato) where we took dinner of lobsters, steak, vegetables, and fruit. All the servants were Japanese and everything was neat. From the station extended wide streets, 150 feet wide, with Chinese hotels of good appearance bordering them. The walled Chinese city was some distance away and we did not visit it. The air was cold and penetrating, but bracingly pleasant. At 10pm I departed, leaving my companion, a Frenchman from Paris with Luigness headquartered in Kobe, Japan, continuing northward to Harbin. The Japanese run a very good train of sleeping cars to Antung on the Yalu River, where we arrived next morning at 6:30am.

October 25, 1917 - (continued) The berths run transversely and are over 6 feet long and quite comfortable accordingly. This convenience is a sort of paradox on our system of cramped pullman quarters. Here you have under Japanese management, the largest berths in a country where humanity is of the shortest stature! The attendants all understand and speak English, a luxury not enjoyed in southern or Latin Europe, not withstanding the predominance of English speaking travelers. More Japanese efficiency is here displayed.

October 26, 1917 Here we changed cars again to day coaches on the chosen RR of Korea. The Yalu is a fine wide stream, crossed by a long steel bridge. Many junks and sampans lined the shore and a few steam launches were seen at small quays. Immediately on reaching the other side (Korea) the white robed Korean peasants were seen at stations and on the rivers shore. The Japanese only are in charge of the RR and the stations. The fields and villages are purely Korean inhabited. The farm houses are hut-like structures, built of mud walls and straw thatched roofs. The chief crop appears to be millet, which was all harvested leaving only stalks remaining in the fields. Rice fields occupy all level valleys. Behind Antung a jagged series of peaks loomed on the skyline. The hills were covered by low scrub with dead leaves... In places, pine trees of small size had been planted on the hills, many being picturesquely contorted and wild swept. The Japanese have shown themselves highly efficient in Korea, with the exception of their cursed custom of changing all geographical names to totally different Japanese names, thus wiping out all historical and time honored names. Their railroad trains are excellently managed, neat, meals well served and the trainmen polite and versed in English. The Chosen Hotel has every comfort from American and European

October 26, 1917 - (continued) standpoint, no detail being omitted, in which respect they are superior to European managed hotels in Shanghai, Hong Kong, or Peking. The Japanese are certainly a wonderfully trained and organized people!! The illustrated folder of the Chosen (Korean) R.R. is the most complete and clear I know of. Each station is boldly marked on the line, as well as tunnels and rivers. Below are given photos of scenes en route with numbers on the map showing where these places occur. The Korean is in build and features nearest to a Japanese, but is larger decidedly and much lighter in complexion. The men wear white baggy trousers to the ankles, long white coats and a small black graze top hat beneath which the cue can be seen through the meshes of the hat. The women wear the same sort of large, baggy trousers, but over them a long white skirt to the ankles and a short jacket to the waste line. Often this latter is lifted up and the teats protrude, especially in women carrying nursing children. The women wear a white turban. Many of the people have narrow slant eyes as do also the Japanese, which gives them a more Chinese appearance than the average Chinese, but no bound feet occur.

October 26, 1917 - (continued) Rice and millet were the only crops in evidence. Vegetable gardens of lettuce, turnips, carrots, onions etc. were seen in places. Fruit trees were rare. The pine was planted on dry hills and bordering the villages were some fir trees, cottonwood (poplar) trees, willows, walnuts, several species of acacia. The tree growth was varied compared to the Mukden district where the willow alone grew, but Central China has a much greater floral display. Live stock was largely absent. No pigs, or sheep, or goats whatever were in view; the only common beast was a large pack ox. Horses were rare. Chickens and ducks were also rare. At times we got glimpses of the sea as we skirted the low tidal flats of rivers; in the purple distance mountain ranges were ever in view, blue and clad with some vegetation but seldom by much forest. The hillsides were covered with grass but no stock was visible to crop the herbage. The pack saddle used is a modification of the Chinese and has two large wooden ribs exposed on which the loads are fastened and ride by balance. Just before dark at 5:45pm we passed through the city of Kaijyo, a sea of small thatched huts, many of the roofs brilliant red with drying peppers. Here ginseng is cultivated and some beds were seen covered by straw lattice to protect the precious plants.

October 26, 1917 - (continued) At 7:30pm we reached Seoul and I was driven in a motor to the Chosen Hotel by Japanese attendants who were exceedingly polite and efficient. At the hotel, in trying to change Peloung (Peking) currency, I got in conversation with the Korean guide, who then took me to a Korean theatre. We reached the place at 9pm and found it consisted of a ground floor and a gallery above. The men in the audience were separated from the women, as in China, - the women occupying the left side of the ground floor and the gallery, and the men the right side and the center. The theatre was an opera of sorts. On our entry, a prima dona of Korea was singing alone in the center of the stage, rocking backward and sideward, rather like a chained elephant in a zoo. The music was weird and monotonous and the lady waved her arms about in accompaniment, holding in either hand a long lantern like affair, striped in all the colors of the rainbow. After she exhausted herself, a bevy of 8 Korean maidens, robed in the usual white and pale green flowing garments executed a chorus to the accompaniment of a long cylindrical drum carried by one of their number. These women sang in high voices and faced each other in a line as in a Virginia reel. We departed before they concluded. The audience showed little enthusiasm but was attentive.

October 27, 1917 It rained slowly all morning. I had a pleasant revelation at the chief Japanese bank in Seoul! They accepted my draft on Kobe for 400 yen and cashed it without any endorsement, which is more confidence than any American or European bank has shown in me. Further, they charged me only 1/2 yen or .50 cents and not that enormous percent of 5% to 10% which Chinese banks of European control charge their fellow man. I must confess the Japanese show much confidence in foreigners and are well beyond the average in friendship. The Yellow Peril is chiefly in the superior consideration with which the Japanese treat us and how badly we treat one another. I called at the American consulate and was welcomed by Mr. Curtis, the Consul⁴ He is a sportsman and has shot birds each season in Korea. The Consul General Miller⁵ was away in Washington and he is also a sportsman. Curtis took me to call on H.H. Underwood⁶ who is an authority on Korea and the son of Reverend Underwood, the best known European in Korea. Underwood showed 2 gural skins he shot in Korea and they were long haired like prime wolf skins, very different from the short haired Yunnan skins. He had 2 large long haired leopard skins from Korea. These are very large and the spots solid without lighter centers. He had heads and body skins of the Korean sika but has never seen the wapiti which are confined to the Manchurian border near the Sacred

October 27, 1917 - (continued) White Mountain and Lake. Roe deer he also had. The wolf he has never shot. Boars he has killed and the head of one large one he showed me mounted. Curtis affirmed he saw one weighed at 500 lbs. killed by natives. This is well over all records for boars of the world. Underwood asked me to send him lists of any literature on Korean animals as he is quite ignorant of such publications. He has never gotten a shot at a tiger, but the Koreans have tried to beat them out to him on occasions. It rained all day, but not withstanding, I went out after tiffin to the zoo with the guide. We saw many cages of large mammals, lions, bears, one tiger, 2 Korean longhaired leopards, 2 Korean lynx, 2 Korean raccoon dogs. I was surprised to find 4 Hdroloplus or water deer from Korea here in a paddock. Underwood said he had shot them. The Korean sika was represented by a large male several females and young males. They are farmed by the Koreans, he said, for their horns in the velvet which they use as medicine like the Chinese and drink of the blood as a sovereign remedy as well.

October 27, 1917 - (continued) They had here a very long trunked Indian elephant, a pair of reindeer, muntjaro, wolves, badgers and many birds. In a building in the park was a large collection of mounted birds. No reptiles or fish were in the park except for 3 small Chinese alligators, the first I have seen. Underwood gave me a pamphlet he has written on big game in Korea, published by the Royal Asiatic Society. He has used the 401 Winchester Automatic on boars with success and never had it jam. Curtis gave me a humorous account of Pontius, the American Consul at Foochow's wedding at which he acted as Consul and tied the knot on a train travelling 20 miles an hour out of his territory.

October 28, 1917 During the night the rain ceased and at 10am after breakfast I went with the guide to Nanzen Park, a high forest clad hill in the Eastern part of the town. This we ascended through groves of contorted pitch pine by a pretty winding road. From the crest, the city of Seoul lay spread out at our feet. The houses were chiefly tiled Japanese style, but outside the wall were clusters of thatched roofed Korean huts. North of the city, a high rugged range of hills extended, brush and forest clad in places and denuded in others. The old road to Peking with its immense gate could be seen cutting through these northern hills and the city wall. Southwest the Han River spread its quiet waters to the sea. Several Japanese shrines or temples have been erected in the pine forests of Nanzen and at these, some Japanese women were worshipping. Religion among the practical Japanese seems to have been relegated to the female sex, as it has in our civilization. At one temple the devotees rang a gong bell as they entered to announce their presence to the Gods!! We descended the hill and visited the commercial Museum near the foot. A large crowd of Koreans were spectators here. The Museum is a Japanese affair, with Japanese girls as guards in all the halls. Various grains, farm machinery, silk worms, cloth, leather, oils, wax, lacquer, matting, woods, fishes in alcohol, shell fist, nets etc. were on exhibition labeled in Chinese characters and exhibited in neat glass cases.

October 28, 1917 - (continued) I saw many Korean women here, many in pale green dresses and pink wastes and a few in grass green robes, but none were in white. In physiognomy they are very Chinese. A group of Korean women and children in Holiday dress make as gay a bit of color as the Burmese women. The curfew which formerly rang at 9pm and allowed the women free use of the streets and the men confinement at home has not been in use for 25 years and is really a forgotten custom. Mr. Curtis, the American Consul, told me that the American residents here outnumber the Europeans. There are about 500 American and Europeans but before Japanese occupation there were 1500. The Japanese are seen in great numbers everywhere in possession of shops, but few are in the city. I have seen troops of Japanese children, clad in gray kimono's and armed with their picturesque umbrellas, or parasols as we consider them, wandering through the streets, merry and heedless. After tiffin, I visited some of the fur shops with the guide. These were small and poor compared to Peking or Shanghai shops. They make no fur garments here, only fur collars and cuffs. I saw a few bundles of gray squirrel, otter, and marmot and black house cat and a few striped wildcat robes. In a few shops were found the leopard, a long-haired race, but the dealers wanted 60 yen each. The tiger skins I saw were rich

October 28, 1917 - (continued) orange in color and short haired, - being distinctly inferior to the great Manchurian skins. For these they wanted 400 to 500 yen where in Peking the largest skins were $200 Mexican. It cleared about 3pm and I took a walk to photograph natives, but the Koreans of all ages would not submit. I bought photos of natives from a Japanese dealer. The Japanese children wanted to be photographed and flocked about me in great glee and familiarity, which action shows one of the great differences in the two people.

October 29, 1917 Last night Sin, the Korean guide took me to a Japanese restaurant where we had sandwiches and sake to drink. The sake was warm but colorless like water and in flavor like the jew of China which I have no doubt is also rice wine or gin. Some 2 Japanese ladies dining at the Inn had phoned their sweethearts, the guide who knows Japanese told me, and the two men presently appeared, much as the same sort of affair would be conducted in our own blessed country. The Japanese women were immensely excited and vivacious as our own. The morning was cloudy and windy with rain storms driving over the landscape. We went at 10am however to the horticultural garden some six miles out of town by way of tram cars and then by rickshaw through the fields. On the way I was surprised to see Japanese and Korean men give their seats to women when the car was crowded. On the way, 2 officers boarded the car with 2 prisoners roped together. One of these officers was Japanese, while the other was Korean. The same sort of thing occurs elsewhere in the town of Seoul among police, where 2 are always stationed together, - 1 Japanese and 1 Korean. The Koreans are said however to detest the Japanese. At the Horticultural Station, a Japanese attendant showed us over the orchards of apples of fine quality and trees loaded with fruit. There were pear hedges trained as long vine-like rails and loaded by large russet pairs. Pear trees were also trained as basket-like towers etc. Peach trees were still in leaf. Grapes on trellis were seen. Many beds of mulberry trees grew in the gardens and at one place I saw men harvesting taro roots.

October 29, 1917 - (continued) On the road out we met many of the Korean four- wheeled wagons, each drawn by a single ox having high withers and short horns like a Durham bull. No horses are seen in Seoul, but outside a few carrying packs may be met. The rice crop was just being harvested. Only one crop is raised. Fields of large turnips and the peculiar delicacy Korean cabbage. One field of cotton was seen. The Korean women are as alike as peas in a pod which is evidence of a race kept pure from intermixture for centuries (The Hermit Nation). They also have narrow slant eyes like Chinese, pale complexion and short, broad noses. In the men distinction may be observed owing to the whiskers which adorn their chins and upper lips. This hair growth is scanty and discouraged and nice distinctions like 9 hairs on the left and 1 on the right may be discerned. In the Chosen Hotel in pots is a fine display of chrysanthemums in bloom. Each stalk is allowed to bear only one blossom, which is thus enabled to attain large size, often 6 inches in diameter. Many cherry trees are seen in the zoo and in parks which blossom in April and give Seoul a Japanese appearance then. The famous Marble Pagoda was visited at 3pm, but the day was cold and bitter by a driving wind and overcast sky. The Pagoda was exquisitely carved, but now the marble is weathered and blackened and the carved Buddhas are indistinct.

October 29, 1917 - (continued) At 4pm I had a date with an American dentist - Schiefly7 of the Severance Hospital situated near the RR station. He has devoted himself to operating on tooths and their diseases among Koreans. Here I met Dr. Mills8, a bacteriologist from Michigan University. He has taken up botany as a hobby and collected many plants in Korea which are particularly named by Kew9 experts. He is translating the Oriental into medical terms and identifying all the plants mentioned there. He has done a great deal of compiling of data already, but he is not a professional botanist and has not yet published any of his results. We discussed the Japanese changes in Korean names and he said most were mere translation of pronunciation, - the Chinese characters for the places remaining unchanged. Some names like Korea (Chosen) and Seoul (Keijo) were older names and had priority over our present day names. Ernest Wilson of the Arnold Arboretum (Harvard University) is now in Korea collecting plants on an island near Fusun. His wife and young daughter were at the Chosen Hotel awaiting his return. The American Consul, R.S. Curtis, asked me to dinner where I met some 6 married couples. One of the men, Mr. Morris, is a sportsman who knows Korea and the Yalu River very well. He has shot the largest boar here; it was weighed by him and found to be 550 pounds!! - A world record, I should say. He has shot deer, roe, sika and goral, but never tiger. Morris, Underwood and other hunters here use the model 401 Winchester Automatic for boar and deer, and speak well of this rifle.

October 30, 1917 The Fusun train pulled out of Seoul at 8:30am. A bright, dry day favored us. The road lay down through valleys filled with fields of ripe rice which the Koreans were harvesting with hand cycles, - both sexes working in their voluminous white clothes. In places the valleys narrowed among pine clad and grass grown hills. At some villages fields of mulberry bushes were seen, sericulture being one of the Korean industries. A few fields of the arrow leafed taro greeted us, but rice was practically the only crop. After tiffin, we reached rice fields long since harvested where Koreans were plowing with a red ox yoked to a spade-shaped plow like the furrow marker of California. At 4pm, we reached Yusem station where rough cliffs and high peaks bordered the railroad. These were pine clad and looked like cover for goral and deer. These high rugged hills continued down to Fusun, but darkness set in before we reached the port. The fine, large steamer lay at the dock onto which the train ran, making the transfer very convenient. Large numbers of 2nd and 3rd class Japanese passengers took passage. The women all had a child clung on their back or shoulders and some led another, larger offspring. None of these babies ever seemed to cry or be discontented, - in which they resemble their cheerful parents.

October 31, 1917 The trip across the channel was pleasant and smooth. A full moon and clear sky made the night passage bright. The stateroom was large and the births much wider than usual and very comfortable. There were only some dozen 1st class passengers, all Japanese except me. In the morning we reached the inland sea and steamed up to Shimonoseki quay at 7:30am. The passengers leaving the steamer were many, but all 2nd and 3rd class Japanese, and only about 20 being Koreans (all men). Some of the Japanese men were met by their wives, but these smiled and bowed profusely. There were no embraces or kisses such as we engage in usually. The Yokohama train does not leave Shimonoseki until 9:00am, so I took a walk about town. The fruit stalls were gay with red apples, great yellow grapefruit the size of musk melons, red grapes, pineapples and bananas, very large chestnuts were also displayed, rivaling in size anything I have seen elsewhere. I saw no foreigners in the narrow streets. Great numbers of Japanese junks were moored along the waterfront. The country eastward is hilly, every hill thickly clad by pines and some other trees and bushes. The peasants were just harvesting their rice crop by hand cycle, both sexes working. The contrast of this wealth of trees to denuded China and Korea is very cheering and refreshing, but it is sad to discover

October 31, 1917 - (continued) that both the birds and the mammals have been exterminated in the forests. I saw here many women and girls with red maroon skirt and black jackets, an unusual dress from the gray, blank kimono gown usually worn. Picturesque glimpses of the inland sea open up at intervals. The whole country has a peculiar association of the pine clad c. darinum hills set in semi-tropical rice fields and quaint villages. The railroad journey along the inland sea is more beautiful and interesting than by sea. The railroad often skirts the beach; in places the sea waves lapping the embankment. Deep inlets and quaint fishing villages are seen of which the voyager by steamer gets no inkling. The population is ____, the villages being numerous and the rice crop correspondingly heavy. The lower hillsides are, in places, etched in narrow rice terraces, peaking out from amidst the pine groves. In Japan, a W.C. has no sex. From Iwakuni station, which we passed at 2pm, much of the land was devoted to mulberry bushes. In gardens here, orange trees bearing green oranges were seen. Fig trees of large size with fruits and golden persimmons on [illegible] trees. This stretch is one of the finest garden spots I have seen in Japan. Japan has the green forested look of a country as it should be, not a bare or denuded hill in sight. China could be the same if the people had only the foresight, as they are wonderful agriculturists.

October 31, 1994 - (continued) Japanese on railroad trains all eat European food, - the only kind served - although it is quite different from their own. I have seen no birds from the railroad except a few crows. There is not even a house sparrow about any of the villages. The value of birds to agriculture is greatly overestimated as here is an example of a highly successful agricultural country without birds, all having been killed years ago.

November 1, 1917 I awoke at 7:00am and discovered myself traveling through rice fields, with an occasional tea garden and forest clad hills. From the Tenryugawa River, Fujiyama with its snow was visible in a clear sky. The river is a wide, granite sand affair, but very shallow. From it a clear sweep of country with the snow summit of Fujiyama is visible. Further on, near Shizuoka, where we arrived at 8:45am, vertical farming was in practice, - the first I had seen in Japan. Tea gardens composed most of these farms, which ran well to the tops of some of the high hills. On the less deep hills, terraces were prevalent. Many school houses were passed en route but in each case there was but one sex to a school, although with small boys, the teachers were often women. This sort of segregation takes place only among people who regard women as inferior to men and where morality is lower than in our country where the sexes are not separated even in the highest education.

November 1, 1917 - (continued) At Kambara, we skirted the sea beach for several miles. This place had many groves of dwarf orange trees bearing green fruit. In places yew hedges were seen, some 7 feet tall. At 9:30am we obtained our best view of Fujiyama from Iwabuchi station from which the great volcano rises majestically without any hills in the foreground. There was only a light stratum of clouds, midway down the volcano which was otherwise clear. Farther on, near Numazu station, fields of mulberry bushes recently stripped of their leaves were conspicuous features in the landscape. Nearing Gotemba, the highest point on the railroad (1,489 feet) the clouds began to gather so that only the summit view was clear. Here I saw racks of orange maize ears drying on the sides of couses. This is the corn seen in Japan. No millet has been seen anywhere although in Korea it was the only crop. Cryptomaria trees with their dark, heavy foliage were seen here as roadside trees and in groves. From Gotemba, the line plunged down hill along a rocky water stream. At one place large cotton mills had been erected. Here on steep side hills various bushes and pines e.t.c. still held their own. At 5:00pm we reached Yokohama station. I found the Grand Hotel full of guests but finally got a room at 7:00pm. Woo had written me letters from Foochow in his quaint English about the chance of going to America with Hartmann.

November 2, 1917 Miss Hedges I learned at Cooks had left Yokohama last Spring for her home in Ohio and Miss Day I could not locate through any source I knew of. The Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank took my Peking currency at 1.35 to the yen which was decidedly better than 1.10 of Chosen Banks. This morning dawned rainy and bad weather prevailed all day. I visited the photographer¹⁰ across from the hotel and he showed me some fine colored slides of Japan of which I bought 28 at 1/2 yen each or 25 cents gold. Later I visited another photographer¹¹ for slides and at T. Enami¹² I found beautifully colored ones and 300 to pick from. Here I selected 55 very artistic ones which also sold at 1/2 yen each. This man is the most artistic and best slide maker in Japan I have met. He sends many slides to the U.S.A. and Europe he told me and will color any slide at this price which you send him.

November 3, 1917 The weather cleared today and bright sunshine prevailed. I tried to find more lantern slide makers but failed, although I found one photographer who makes them to order from his negatives. After dinner I took a rickshaw to Theatre Street, which is half an hour away across the large canal. I was surprised to find Theatre Street packed with Japanese wandering up and down and the shops and fruit stands open. Great flags bearing Japanese words were displayed on poles overhanging the street. This part of Yokohama thronged by people at night while Water Street and Main Street near the hotel are dark and deserted. Ralph Turner, the reporter on the Japanese Advertiser, who came over with me 18 months ago on the Tenyo Maru called for an interview.

November 4, 1917 - Sunday Another all day steady rain took possession of the country today, making sightseeing quite out of the question. The meals at the hotel are fine. We have such delicacies as Trappist cheese, a soft rich sort like gorgonzola, but without green striations. It is made, or was, by the Trappist monks. Boiled lobsters and prawns, raw oysters, artichokes etc. help out the menu. The rooms are, however, without baths, closets or running water, except for a few large apartments on the main floor. The Chosen Hotel at Seoul is far superior in arrangement, but is new (2 years old). The rickshaw boys here all wear a bowl shaped helmet with their name marked on it, and a number as well. Nearly all of them speak some English, which speaks well for their enterprise. At dinner we had a rare dish, roast wild boar, which was quite good, but had no pork taste, and was lean, rather like venison in flavor. Terrapin stewed was another delicacy, but I presume this dish was made of a native turtle, and not the rare U.S.A. reptile.

November 5, 1917 A perfect day dawned bright and with a bracing breeze. I took a stroll on the bluff, where most of the European and Americans reside. A common ornamental plant seen here was a new one to me. It is an umbelifer with a central raremose of small white flowers. The foliage is the attractive feature ______leaves being large ______ incised affairs of very dark green glossy color. The shrubs looks like the Alaskan Devils Club which is an umbelifer, and no doubt a near relative. In the afternoon, I took the electric railway to Tokyo and visited Hibiya Park to see the chrysanthemums, but they were a disappointment. Much of the park is a lawn, and used as a playground for children from 4 to 8 years old. They were chiefly boys in the common polka dot kimono's. Their games were American baseball chiefly and the flying of toy airplanes operated by a stern propeller, wound up by a rubber band, and tossed into the air to sail whither they wish. Japanese children are a gay lot, and thoroughly imbued by the spirit of games and play just as European children are. The similarity of these young Japanese to Europeans is closer than among adults, when a certain dignified bearing and set ceremonial attitude makes the Japanese a very different appearing lot from Europeans. I took snaps of women and children in the park and these victims usually laughed when caught and were wonderfully good natured compared to tribes people or even Europeans, who are often nasty under similar circumstances. Opposite the Imperial Hotel I visited Okamoto, a colored slide maker, and I purchased a few slides. His stock

November 5, 1917 - (continued) was low, but he said he had several hundred negatives from which slides were made. He has sent many hundreds to America, he said, but his work is not equal to Enami of Yokohama, - but the price is the same. While I was in Enami's studio at 11:30am, an earth quake shock shook the house, and swayed his suspended transparencies on the wall. There were four shocks covering 1 1/2 hours (10:30am until Noon). The steamer Tennyo ran aground at the mouth of Yokohama harbor, and it has been found quite impossible to float her, so her cargo is being taken out. She is stuck in sand, but no damage is anticipated. This was Captain Smith's last voyage, his retirement being in effect on reaching Yokohama, two hours away, due to a recent government regulation prohibiting foreign officers on Japanese boats.

November 6, 1917 This morning was a clear day which gave a fine view of Mt. Fuji, which has a new lot of snow extending half way down its slopes due to the recent storm of Sunday. In one garden I saw a beautiful display of immense chrysanthemums in bloom with Fuji towering up in the far distance.

November 7, 1917 The Tenyo Maru still remains stuck in the sand at Saratoga Point, 12 miles below Yokohama. Another fine, clear, bracing day made sightseeing a pleasure. I took a walk along the bluff and down to Mississippi Bay. There are Japanese houses and rice fields all the way after the European houses on the Bluff are passed. I discovered today the chief peculiarity of Yokohama's street or house nomenclature. The foreign section about the Grand Hotel is called Yamachita-cho and comprises some 250 or 300 streets. Each building square in this large section is numbered without consideration of the streets and without duplication, running from 1 to 277. Our address, usually given as No. 70 Yokohama, is thus sufficient and no street is appended usually. The bluff section of foreign houses is numbered similarly, but distinct.

November 8, 1917 This afternoon, I made a visit to Mr. Francis Ormiston's office at 40 Yamachita-cho, Yokohama. His brother, who is recently deceased, collected natural history specimens by purchasing from natives, but failed to sell all of them at the time of his death. He at one time sold a lot of mammals from Hainan Island collected there by a Japanese. The collection left consisted of several hundred jars of sucker lizards, turtles, corals, sea worms, crytacea in formalin, and cases of bird skins. These Ormiston is anxious to sell for the benefit of the widow, who is in need of money. Ormiston knew of no local sportsmen who have hunted big game in Korea or Japan. Yesterday, I called at the American Consulate and found the Consul General out. The Vice-Consul, Hitchcock, would not endorse my check for $200.00 on the National Metropolitan Bank, although I showed him a T.R. letter of recommendation. He is considered OK here, but it is against the office rules. Today I called on the Manager of the International Banking Corporation, and he also refused to cash any check unless endorsed by a local resident known to him, although I flashed my T.R. letter on him.

November 9, 1917 A clear day again with Fujiyama's snow summit showing through the light haze hanging above Yokohama. The chrysanthemums displayed here in private gardens are wonderful in variety and size. There are all colors and shapes of petals as well as some with centers of yellow disk flowers like a daisy. I have noticed the total absence of graves throughout Japan, but discovered only yesterday the reason in a book on Japan. The Japanese cremate their dead, indulging in a funeral feast at the time of Saki and food in great variety. They have no belief in a future existence, nor do they fear one, but accept death as a natural end. Their belief or religion is chiefly ancestor worship and patrolism. 13 Hop Scotch is a common game with little Japanese girls everywhere in the city. You see them lined up in a row playing. I believe the game is of Japanese origin? There is no holiday or day of rest in Japan comparable to our Sabbath, nor is there any in China. No such institution is needed, and often it is a decided inconvenience.

November 10, 1917 Last night I took the electric tram and dined with Turner and King of the Japan Advertiser, plus two other Americans, - an engineer and a business man. They live in a Japanese house of small size and have Japanese servants to do the household work. These men like the Japanese and have acquired a workable vocabulary in a few months of Japanese, but are not able to get beyond this point without much study. At the Advertiser office, (18 Yamashita-cho in Tokyo) I met the editor, B.W. Fleisher, an American who has lived in China and Japan for a score of years. We visited the Imperial Hotel, but found only some 15 or 20 guests; - the place presenting no such life as the Grand Hotel of Yokohama, which is filled, and the lobby of which is a center of foreign life here. There are quite a number of Russians in the Grand, and most of them have French appearance and French mannerisms. One man I have seen frequently in the dining room dining with a woman and a small child, and he greets this woman ceremoniously by kissing her hand when she arrives.

November 11, 1917 This morning we had a clear sky and a bracing north wind, so I took a long stroll to the race course west of the Bluff. A magnificent view of Fujiyama greeted me from the high ground on which the course is laid. The mountain loomed up clearly, being visible down to its very base, showing well the even or regular slope from summit to base. A more regular or symmetrical mountain is not to be found anywhere else on the earth! The snow of yesterday extended far down, one large white field lying at the base at only 3000 feet altitude, I should judge. The whole upper half is now a white sheet of snow which will remain, I suppose, until Spring. Beyond the race course a few hundred yards, a fine view of Mississippi Bay is seen with its picturesque pine clad bluffs of yellow clay at the southern extremity. At this place, the pretty photos of shell gatherers and fishermen have been taken, and colored slides and prints have been made for sale. Bordering the bay on level land are clustered Japanese houses in dense village formation. The race track made around a deep hole the center dipping down like an amphitheatre. Among the knolls in the center a golf course has been made, and today being Sunday, it was filled by foreign players with only 1 or 2 Japanese players. The race course is a mile long, but quite uneven, with a very perceptible dip at the south end, which forms the outlet of the interior hollow center.

November 12, 1917 Last night I dined with Mr. Lawrence Mott and his wife at their home on the Bluff. Mr. Mott is a Harvard man of about 1904 or less. He has hunted moose and caribou in Labrador and New Brunswick, and also in Northern Japan at the North tip of Hondo Island or Japan proper. Here he trapped mink, polecats, flying squirrel and shot pheasants and other birds. At present he is engaged in newspaper and literary work on fiction and Japanese subjects. His wife has a fine voice and was at one time an opera singer at the Metropolitan Opera House, NYC. The family are vegetarians and total abstainers, but they gave me meat to eat. They have lived here at least 6 years and speak Japanese. They have little confidence in the honesty or friendship of the Japanese, and assert that most of them are really stupid. The Japanese woman they say is charming, but has had all independence crushed out of her by her education and her husband, who is sulky and insulting to her at all times. At 10am I visited the Tenyo Maru, which had reached port yesterday and I found my trunks from Shanghai on board OK. My roommate is Dow, a Standard Oil youth from Chunking, Upper Yangtse. Dr. Crooks invited me to lunch and in the evening, he took dinner with Walters and me at the Hotel. He told us of the boiling which the Japanese endure in their bath, which raises their body temperature to 105o and kills by heat all such germs as gonorrhea and some sorts of fevers. They habitually take boiling hot baths and can stand water much hotter than we can. He also told us that the way to cure malaria was by doses of 3 grams quinine every two hour until 60 grams were taken, and always work the tabloids down with hot water or the effect will not be beneficial. He is from Santa Barbara, California, in which place he went to school.

November 12, 1917 - (continued) The building of the American Embassy at Tokyo is a shabby frame affair. The entrance is a narrow, awkward bare hole with white painted doors opening onto a small room for visitors, with a few chairs and no decorations. Like a bar room in appearance. The main office of the Ambassador is little better and an equal disgrace to the U.S.A. Being quite broke, I took the electric for Tokyo this morning and called on Roland Morris¹⁴ our new Ambassador to Japan. His secretary, Mr. Spencer, met me and was very cordial. He is an acquaintance of Percy Maderas, George Harrison, and other Philadelphia sportsmen from which town he comes. The minister, Mr. Morris, finally endorsed a check for $200 after looking over T.R.'s letter, but was not at all pleasant about it, and even wanted to know whether a smaller amount would not do, as if he were actually going to be defrauded out of the money. Passing Hibiya Park, I saw the chrysanthemum show and went in and looked them over. The flowers were arranged in long rows under covered sheds or stalls. There was great variety in size from diminutive daisy-like sorts to a great spreading one 8 inches across. Colors ranged from white, yellow, red and plum color - no blues were seen. Some of the largest plants spread out 6 feet and bore some 50 blossoms, trained in a great dome. At the Imperial, where I lunched, I met Cole of the Standard Oil, who is a director in N.Y.C., but formerly lived out in Yokohama for the company. He said he had witnessed cormorant fishing at Gifu at night by burning torch flames.

November 13, 1917 After dinner we had a dance at the hotel, the music furnished by a string orchestra of Dutchmen from a Dutch ship recently arrived from Java. These Dutchmen mentioned the sad plight of Holland as a neutral, and the scarcity of food there, and her helplessness.

November 14, 1917 Mott and his wife took tiffin at the hotel with me. He has written several books of fiction and travel. One of these I bought, The Rube & the Yankee Girl, which was on sale at the hotel for Red Cross support. It is written in the vernacular of an American farmer. It carries one through the larger cities of the Orient - Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo etc. - In the afternoon I went shopping on Theatre Street for where the Japanese stores of the Japanese themselves are located. Here in one shop I ordered 4 kimonos of cotton, from patterns which I chose, for 9 yen each. I also bought 4 pairs of tabis or bifurcated socks for use in wearing sandals of which I also bought 4 pair for children. The tabis were only 30 sen a pair, and the sandals 50 sen.

November 15, 1917 The Tenyo Maru left the docks promptly at 3pm and we had a noisy departure. The dock was crowded with Japanese and Europeans bidding farewell to passengers as the great liner cast off. Many of the Japanese shouted lustily and gave cheers for their friends. We cast anchor alongside the largest battleship in the Japanese navy which is anchored in the bay. After a short examination of steerage for stow-aways, we steamed down the bay in the gloom and passed through the heads at darkness into the sea. The 1st cabin passengers are 160, 100 of which are Japanese. As roommate, I have W.A. Dow, an Oakland, California man who has been a Standard Oil Salesman at Hankow, and also as far up the Yangtse as Chung-King. He speaks the Hankow dialect, and Mandarin. Several Americans from the Philippines are on board, 2 tea buyers from Formosa, and a Siamese prince.

November 16, 1917 The sea was moderate with a misty rain most of the day, but the air feels warmer than at Yokohama. The steamer has done some pitching and a few poeple are sea-sick mildly. November 17, 1917 The weather was overcast with misty rain at intervals and fair sized swells running. One of the passengers of interest to me is Mr. H. Williams, a mining engineer and expert who has traveled much in Japan and some in Korea where he visited the Diamond mountains which he says are very rough and forested and inhabited by bear, tigers and deer. He knows the Misas Gereas country of Brazil, much of which he says is a desert. Other passengers are Mott and Griffin, chairmen of committees and leaders generally. Mott is a gray-haired child of N.Y. but really a tea buyer in Formosa (Taiwan) and Griff is a N.Y. shoe salesman with the manners and airs of a pouter pigeon, but a good fellow when his little bluff is called. Another voyager is Lenty who has the map of Ireland on his face and an overfed appearance. He is an American dentist of 9 years residence in the sands of Alexandria, but now returning to the USA for residence.

November 18, 1917 Sunday was passed quietly without dancing or religious service. We have seen no islands or ships and very little sea life, only a few black footed albatross and some flying fish. This boat carries more short story tellers than I have ever met before. Captain Nielson of the Canton Customs, a Dane, has a perpetual stream. Mott and Lenty are second and Seligman, the image of Charlie Chaplin, is a source of stories quite as numerous. November 19, 1917 Monday the passengers met and elected a sports and entertainment committee. Mott and Griff both drew the honors and I was awarded a place amid the sports by Dr. Crooks. An American Chinaman of California, Tom Gunn, an aviator who is returning from Canton after two years residence with his wife, also a Chinese woman born in America, is one of the popular members of the ship and a good sport. November 20, 1917 The weather is growing warmer and calmer, as we are now traveling south-east. The sports committee toiled heavily. One of our members is Arai, a Japanese of N.Y. and a graduate of Harvard 1911.

November 21, 1917 Sports took up the whole day on deck, and a cinematography show in the evening. Weather calm. Today, we had our second Wednesday on crossing the 180 Meridian, where a day is gained or lost. This day I lost 1 1/2 years ago, and now I regained it and am again square with the calendar. We had more sports in the day on deck and at night a Vaudeville show of sorts. At the finish, I came on with My Japanese slides but the lantern was so hot that the slides would crack if held more than a minute, so could say very little about any of them. November 22, 1917 The weather today was so warm that woolen clothing is quite oppressive. We are back again in the tropics. I have been fighting a mild malarial fever daily but with no great change or success. The deck sports continued all day and at night we had a wild and exciting cabaret concert on the upper deck aft the smoking room. Dances, drinks at small tables, songs, special dances and an auction of the pool on the ships run. Everyone was jolly and time passed gaily.

November 23, 1917 At 8:30pm the wrestling contest between members of the Japanese crew took place. These men were stripped to the waist and wore short cotton drawers leaving their legs bare. They are expert wrestlers, but not of the enormous size of professional Japanese wrestlers. They caught holds by arms in a leaning forward position and then tried to throw their opponent out of the ring or else on his back in the ring, - either feat spelling victory for them. In professional contests the action is slower; the wrestlers standing motionless for 15 or 20 minutes at one time. In the morning the sword fencing contest between Japanese took place. The antagonists were protected by iron mask, padded head and corset made of bamboo. Whacking on top of the head and side of the body was the usual mode of attack. The victor always emitting a deep growl or crow of victory and the victim a lesser groan or sign of defeat. November 24, 1917 Saturday we reached the outer bay of Honolulu at 7pm and laid too while the doctor and passport inspection took place which was not finished until reaching the dock at 10:30am. Going ashore I met Albert Waterhouse who traveled to Singapore with us in 1916. The view from the harbor showed a great mountainous island with clouds hanging on the summit of the higher volcanoes above Honolulu. On the plain westward near Pearl Harbor, vast fields of light yellow sugar cane could be detected. Eastward beyond Waikiki, Diamond Head, an old volcano crater stood sentinel and sloped steeply into the sea.

November 24, 1917 - (continued) Mrs. E.M. Mulder (The Countess) took us in tow to call on her uncle, Governor Pinkham of the Hawaiian Islands. We first did some shopping and I bought a few Hawaiian lantern slides at Jeffries, near the Alex Young Hotel. We took tiffin; Dow, Mrs. Muldder, Swann and I at the A. Young Hotel and then drove to Dr. Cooper's house where Gov. Pinkham resides. He was resting on the verandah. He is a small old man of 65 years but a keen ______ and honest fighter. He took us out to the Moana Hotel at Waikiki Beach where we went in sea bathing. There were many bathers of both sexes in the water and playing on the sand. Some experts were far out in the breakers riding surf boards on which they stood erect. The water was pleasantly warm and all should enjoy a month or two here, swimming daily. At 8pm we dined at Gov. Pinkham's house and then motored to the Seaside Hotel to attend a dance for a few minutes. At 9:30pm we returned to the Alex Young Hotel and attended the roof garden dance until 12 midnight. The Gov. ______was there, also Harlow of the Hawaiian Promotion Society. The dancers were a gay lot of American girls and men, but no Hawaiian or Eurasians were seen, although it is a public resort. Many army officers in white and khaki uniforms were among the dancers, but no alcohol can be served these soldiers, 10,000 of which are stationed here permanently. The weather was warm with frequent short misty showers during the day. At dark mosquitoes attack our faces and ankles. Dr. Cooper said they were not the malarial sort, but quite harmless, although decidedly annoying.

November 25, 1994 The Tenyo departed at 9am for San Francisco. The harbor entrance is very narrow, and the room inside so small that the Tenyo had to be backed around by tugs. Larger steamers would have much difficulty here. The Columbia had entered during the day and lay along side of us. We passed out, passing Diamond Head, into a smooth sea, the water ruffled by a light breeze.

November 26, 1917 The weather continued balmy and the sea smooth. The passengers remained quite inactive, apparently still recovering from Honolulu exertions. November 27, 1917 A fancy dress ball kept us amused most of the night. We were a gay party and represented hula girls, school girls, Koreans, Japanese, Chinese Mandarins, sailors, soldiers, clowns, perrots etc. We assembled masked before dinner and the many disguises were difficult to detect. Before, the dance, we had 2 flashlight photos taken. November 28, 1917 Another quiet day. Weather calm but growing cooler. November 29, 1917 Thanksgiving. The turkey dinner was served with decorations, paper streamers, caps, balloons etc.

November 30, 1917 The last night out, a red cross auction took place in the saloon, where cabaret dancing was interspersed. An overcoat of Major Glasgow's Romanian Red Cross Commission sold for $200.00 by tickets. There were also sold damascene pictures, jade, trinkets etc. $500 was raised. December 1, 1917 We steamed through the Golden Gate at 7am and anchored at Alcatraz Island for quarantine inspection, then proceeded to the dock at 10am. The custom house baggage inspection lasted until 1pm and then I went up town with Griffen to the Palace Hotel and took a room. After lunch I went with Seligman of Boston (Hartmann Brothers) to the Columbia Theatre and enjoyed greatly the musical comedy "Miss Springtime." December 2, 1917 - Sunday Sunday was quiet. Janssen of New York and I took a long stroll up Market Street. December 3, 1917 I visited Berkeley and called on Harvey Hall, who gave me a few letters which I had asked him to hold for me. At the Faculty Club, I met Dr. G.K. Gilbert, and a geologist who has spent 2 years in Chinese travel. Harvey took me home for dinner, where I saw Carlotta and the baby Martha, now 20 months old and just able to pronounce a word or two and walk. 72

December 4, 1994 This morning I met Gertrude at the Ferry building by appointment. She was returning from the Alameda Sanitarium after an operation which removed her tonsils. A month previously she had taken scarlet fever and this later was followed by severe tonsillitis. We took the Sausalito Ferry for Lagunitas, and then the railroad to Lagunitas, but had a change of cars to make, the journey taking 1 1/2 hours from San Francisco. En route, we passed Maillard's place where I had dined in 1901, sixteen years ago. Dr. Merriam met us in his car at Lagunitas and took us up the winding road to his home on a side hill amid the redwoods and oaks. The station of Lagunitas is a lonely little place with one store, a general sort, a schoolhouse and a post office. Only one farm house is at the station. Dr. Merriam's house is well situated in a natural forest of a variety of trees. There has been no landscape gardening about the house and no cutting out of forest trees, except evenough to give space for the house. The house is of redwood with a tavern like living room with a large fireplace and a balcony in the back with bedrooms opening out on it. There is a small office in the back of the house with a fire proof vault in it for manuscripts etc. There are also large verandas with beds on them. There is running water and closets and every convenience and a small garage. Dr. Merriam has no servants, as none will remain in so lonely a place. He does all his own wood chopping and Mrs. Merriam her housework and cooking. I returned to San Francisco on the 5pm train as Gertrude was weak and tired from her tonsil operation.

December 5, 1917 This afternoon I visited the Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park but found Everman away. Paul Fair, who is now chief taxidermist was there and I was shown over the place. The building is only one year old and is an ideal one for exhibitions. It has only top light and the groups are large wall affairs with painted backgrounds and only a direct front view is possible of them. The backgrounds are by Caswin and are all California scenes, as are the mammals and birds. They have a San Joaquin Elk group and Dr. Everman is saving space for a Roosevelt Elk group next to it and asked me to speak to Colonel Roosevelt regarding financing it. There is a fine mountain sheep group with San Jacinto background. A sea lion group, stellus seal group, harbor seal, and a sea elephant group in preparation. A very artistic sunset is the background for a San Joaquin goose group. Outside the building in the shed, they have a sulfur bottom whale skeleton 87 feet long, the longest one on exhibition anywhere. ____ showed me a set of slides of Galapagos photos, but most of them were poor negatives.

December 6, 1917 Dr. Everman took me out to lunch after showing me over the Academy. Afterward, I visited Harvey Hall in his herbarium, where I found him pouring over rubber culture in the U.S.A. He is trying to discover a plant which will grow in the U.S. and produce rubber. The ______ is the only one known thus far. In case of war, our rubber supply would be stopped if ocean transport was blocked. I took dinner with the Grinnell family. The 3 kids are of one size and age about Willard 10, Molly 9, Stewart 8. Their parents have given them freedom and they are natural in manners, unafraid, and filled with ______ and jokes.

December 7, 1917 This morning I visited Rowley¹⁵ at the Oakland Public Museum at Oakland. The place is situated in an old wooden building in a park on the shores of Lake Merritt. I found Rowley in the attic with an Examiner reporter, and Mr. Hubbard, an Oakland sportsman and sort of father to the institution. He is a relative of Mrs. Bell, who was a Hubbard. The Museum has large exhibits, but is an old house with small rooms and not suitable for a display place. They have a new building planned in the park. The funds are provided by the city. Public lectures in schools are given by a woman whom I met, and cases of birds are used in this connection. Rowley told me of an African sportsman who lives in Oakland, Mr. Simpson, who will donate his collection of African heads to the Museum as soon as he can take them from London. Dr. Thompson, the Naval Surgeon, is curator of reptiles. The assistant curator of reptiles was present and he exhibited a live black rattler which was very tame and possessed well formed fangs. On the ferry, I met K.E. Baker of the Tenya. He is a U.S. Rubber Co. expert who has been stationed at Singapore. He is now on his way to the N.Y. office. At 8pm, I went to Chinatown with Police Sargent Kelley and with Knoth and Janssen and Myers and Obrian and Poole of A.S.F. business house. Chinatown was vastly different from a town in China, for its streets were wide, clean, and the underground rooms were deserted, - no opium smokers or fan tan players being extant. The Sargent showed us many secret doors, closets, etc. He introduced us to Rosay, a

December 7, 1917 - (continued) Chinese girl of 18 who sang the latest American songs and a few Chinese ones, but she spoke little Chinese as she had never seen China. She was a good fellow and as free and happy with us as could be. We finally went to a Chop Suey restaurant, where she danced one step with us and ate Chop Suey. She is no more Chinese in manners than I am. She is a ladies maid in the St. Francis Hotel. On the way back, we passed through the Barbery Coast and reached the hotel at 2am, at which time all resorts must close. December 8, 1994 Gertrude and the Merriams took the 5pm train for Washington via S.P. In the evening I went to a dance pavilion with Walters, who arrived yesterday with Cole from Japan. December 9, 1917 Sunday night Harvey Hall gave a dinner to Miss Alexander, Miss Kellogg, 2 of Miss Alexander's cousins and a professor from Japan. Louise Kellogg has become white- haired and older in appearance and Miss Alexander is also white-haired, but otherwise as of yore. These two old friends are farming near Suisun on the Sacramento River, where their farm is below sea level, but kept dry by a dike. They raise pigs, durham cattle, chickens and beans. 77

December 10, 1917 Grinnell took me home to dinner and I again saw his 3 kids, who are charmingly frank and humorous. Grinnell told me that my old friend Kennedy is still at the ____kilns, Mts where I remember him 16 years ago. December 11, 1917 I visited the Sutro baths with a friend and swam in the tanks. December 12, 1917 I did some more shopping in Chinatown and visited the Columbia Theatre in the evening. December 13, 1917 Pearl Fair took me to a Spanish restaurant for lunch. Afterward we went to an art store and looked over a lot of bronzes of wolves and pumas by a local artist, Putnam, who is a man recently gone partially insane. His work is good; the attitudes being very striking but his style is rough and suggestive, the body being only blocked out or sketched. Later we visited a marine painter, Hansen, a blond giant who has a studio in an attic with a few old chairs and a small stove to keep it warm. He is doing a background of the Pribloff Ids for a furseal group at the Academy of Sciences.

December 14, 1917 Dr. Evermann took lunch with me at the Palace today. Later I dined at Taits with Mrs. Mulder and a friend, and met 2 men from China whom I had known there. December 15, 1917 Harry Swarth took me to his house for dinner with his wife and 6-year-old son George. The wife is much like Mrs. Grinnell, but the boy is a chubby little blond of quiet disposition, but playful and confiding on sight. Swarth told me his position as assistant director at Los Angeles in the Museum was simply that of guiding distinguished visitors about. He also told me an amusing story about A.W. Anthony who in order to pay for a trip in Lower California put through a bold scheme, which however failed as it surely must. Anthony invited Mr. and Mrs. Thurber to accompany him but told them that he wanted to invite Mr. and Mrs. Brandager as guests and Thurber should help pay for them. He then explained to the Brandagers that the Thurbers were going as his guests and they should help pay for them. He spent his time on the trip keeping the 2 parties separated so they would not learn of his duplicity. December 16, 1917 Spent Sunday at the theatres in San Francisco. 79

December 17, 1917 I discovered a lantern slide expert, Kanzee on Gerry Street at Market. He has several thousand slides in stock from all parts of the world and I purchased slides of India, Darjeeling, Burma and China from him. December 18, 1917 At 9am, I took the train for Stamford University. The morning was foggy, so I did not see much of the landscape. I had not been at Stamford for 9 years. At the Palo Alto Station, I found a trolley car line to the campus, which was built since my time. I found all the zoology faculty of the old days still in office. Dr. Gilbert, Price, Snyder and Heath and Starks. Fisher was in the East. The families of many of the staff have grown up and departed. Dr. Gilbert's son and his two daughters are married, and Mrs. Gilbert is dead, so Dr. Gilbert now has no home but lives with an old friend. Heath has a son who has just entered the University. Starks has a daughter 17. I lunching with Seal and his wife, who have just come here from Harvard C.M.S. Starks took me home for dinner and later Abrams came and took me in his car to his home on the campus where I spent the night.

December 19, 1917 I returned to San Francisco in the fog on the 9:13am train. At the station, I met with Will Price, also on his way to the city. He is going into YMCA work in France. The Red Cross would not take him owing to his blood pressure. He is however in a ruddy happy state of health, but is not allowed to eat meat or drink coffee. With Price was Miss Hempel, a Stamford 1913 Zoology major, who has recently returned from France and Algeria, where she has done medical work. Now she is at the Harper Medical Research Lab in S.F. The 3 of us visited the Academy Museum in Golden Gate Park nearby her laboratory. I dined at the Palace with Price and afterward gave a talk with slides at the California Academy meeting at Mechanics Institute. December 20, 1917 In the evening I dined with Evermann and his family and Snyder at Oakland. Later I gave a talk on China and the East at the Cooper Club in the Museum of Ver. Zoology. Here I met with such old boys as Maillard, Roswell Wheeler, and Carridger. Wheeler, who is a teacher in the Oakland Schools has traveled in China, India and Japan. At Kobe, he said he had bought many beautiful lantern slides of a local dealer who colored them. Snyder made some remarks after my talk and said Cormorant Fishing could be seen by daylight in certain localities. There was a long discussion of why the crops are not eaten by insects because all insect feeding and small birds have been exterminated in Japan.

December 21, 1917 In the afternoon I visited Hilda¹⁶ at her lab in the Hooper Research Lab at the Affiliated Colleges. She was clothed in an apron and had a series of test tubes filled with bacteria cultures - some of which she showed me on slides. She had cages of guinea pigs in which she was growing tetanus, typhoid, and other bacteria germs. She introduced me to Dr. Mayer, the acting head who spoke of his experience in South and B.C. Africa with titsifly. Another Dr. Williams I met also and he has been in South America. At night, Hilda dined with me in the rose room of the Palace and we danced until 11pm and then I took her home to 2 Hugo Street in a fog. December 22, 1917 Hilda took me down to Carmel for Xmas where her parents are stopping. We took the 2pm train and arrived at Monterey at 6pm, then took an autobus to Carmel. Her father is suffering from Brights Disease.... He was Professor of Languages at Stanford and told me that he has many new facts on the origin of English words and language in manuscript. Both he and his wife are from Michigan University at Ann Arbor. Hilda has just returned from 2 years in England, 3 months in Algiers, and a month in France doing medical investigation on disease germs as a freelance. She visited Denmark and Sweden also. The family put me up in the house and I was very comfortable.

December 23, 1917 Hilda and I took a long walk to Carmel Mission and returned by the beach. December 24, 1917 Hilda and I engaged 2 riding horses at Del Monte Hotel, where we took lunch and looked over the park-like grounds. We rode out at 2pm but Hilda's horse stampeded when frightened by a motor car and threw her off in a grassy ditch, but did not injure her. She remounted as soon as we caught the horse and we then took a ride over the 17 mile drive to Pebble Beach through fine groves of pines and over quiet winding roads. At 5pm we reached Pebble Beach Lodge and took tea before a great fireplace. We returned to Del Monte in the moonlight and then by motor to Carmel where we took dinner with Professor Rentdorf and his wife. December 25, 1917 Christmas Day was spent quietly at Carmel and the Hempels gave presents to each other in the evening and then we played cards.

December 26, 1917 I departed at 2:30pm and Hilda went with me by motor as far as Monterey. We had become inseparably attached in the last seven days spent together and I departed for S.F. in distress! December 27, 1994 Remained in S.F. I visited some of the new plays. December 28, 1917 I took lunch with Dr. Evermann at the Heidelberg where I ate my first whale meat. It looked like beef when grilled, but tasted flat, though not disagreeable. At 4:40pm I took the ferry for Fresno where Ernest met me at 10pm. December 29, 30, 1917 I spent the days in Fresno with the family... Ernest is 43 only and 190 lbs now, crops and conditions at Fresno are good.

December 31, 1917 Last night at 11:30pm I left Fresno on the Owl and reached Los Angeles at 10am. I went out to the Museum and met Frank Haggett, the Director. They have mounted skeleton of Elephas Imperator 13 feet high. Bison, Camel, lion [illegible] size of African lion, saber toothed tiger, large wolf, giant ground sloth bear with 17 inch skull. He showed me a large condor with a spread of wings 14 feet... My Galapagos turtle was mounted.... At 3:30pm I took the train for Riverside where I arrived at 6:30pm and was met by Will. We took the trolley to Rubidoux and then walked to the ranch in the dark. Emma cooked supper. There is only one old house on the ranch.... January 1, 1918 Took the Golden Gate limited at Colton at 1:30pm. The weather was warm and dusty. We passed out of the valley through San Gorgonia Pass. No snow was visible on the bright San Berdo San Jacinto Mountains. At dusk we reached Salton Sea and skirted its margin....

January 2, 1918 We awoke in Arizona in the Yucca Belt... the afternoon was passed traveling through New Mexico. At Columbus, a large camp of negro cavalry were guarding the border. We reached El Paso at 3pm. Here there was a large camp of U.S. soldiers guarding the Mexican Border. Many Mexicans were living in adobe houses in the _______places near the town. January 3, 1918 Our way lay through Kansas today. There was no snow in sight and the weather was mild.... At 10pm we reached Kansas City and stopped 10 minutes. I visited the telegraph station, but received no word from Osgood. January 4, 1918 Daybreak in Illinois, where we met our first snow... Chicago was reached at 1pm at the La Salle Street Station. I rang up the Field Museum but Osgood was away at Gulfport, Mississippi for a fortnight of rest. A.B. Lewis the anthropologist took care of me fine on my arrival at 3:30pm at the Museum. I took dinner with him at his house where I met his wife and his sister. Lewis has a great Library of travel books... He told me of his 4 years travel in New Guinea and showed me many photos he took there. He said the natives were friendly... but travel in the interior was impossible due to lack of food and transport except native who eat themselves or load up in 16 days.... He had published nothing about his New Guinea travels. I met Gerhard and a new man, Chub, of Stanford, who now has the reptiles and the fishes in the Museum.

January 5, 1918 Becker, who is Osgood's assistant and has spent 2 years in South America, showed me around the mammal department. I looked over the exhibits but found only a few new bird groups. They have an oil bird group from Columbia. The Anthropology department has its floor space stacked full of cases so thickly that they touch one another and cannot be seen. At Noon I took lunch with Alexander Lanfer, head of Anthropology, at Marshall Field's restaurant on top floor. Lanfer has been in Tiber, west of Tackinler on the Lhasa road, but was turned back by the Chinese Government. He is a Tibetan scholar, and talks the language. In the afternoon Becker took me to the Adventurers Club where I met the President Russell Mott and several wealthy big game shooters. The Adventurers club has many members, among them T.R. McCutcheon, Lewis, Cole, Becker and Captain Foran who organized the Club. He was our press agent in the Roosevelt African 3rd Expedition and is now in France fighting under the British flag with rank of Major. January 6, 1918 This morning snow was falling heavily but I made my way from the LaSalle Hotel, where I had stopped, to the Pennsylvania Station. All the fast N.Y. trains have been taken off by the Government, but I managed to catch a slow train at 10am which departed 2 hours late. By dusk we had traveled beyond the snowstorm. The train was crowded and no buffet car was attached.

January 7, 1918 The train reached N.Y. at 6pm - 2 hours late. I called up Mrs. Akeley and found that her hubby was in his camera shop working. I went down at 9pm and found him with a new camera which he has standardized, and is now building for the U.S. Govt for aviation service. He is putting in all his time on the camera. After dinner with him I betook myself to a hotel. I tried the Endicott and Manhattan without success and then got a room in the Belmont. The automobile show and the coal famine seems to have caused this fullness. January 8, 1918 Visited the Museum and opened my mail. Took tea with Mrs. Akeley at the Waldorf, then dined with her and Clark at a French restaurant. Afterward we went home and got Akeley and attended the Zoological Society meeting at the Waldorf where Andrews showed his color photos on slides of China. January 9, 1918 Spent the evening with Manke at the Endicott. He is with the Prizme Color Moving Picture Co.

January 10, 1918 Museum January 11, 1918 Attended the Explorers Society where Lange talked on Congo natives and dress. January 12, 1918 Moved into a room at 82nd Street, No. 24

EXPENSE ACCOUNT A.M.N.H. June 9-16: Circuit House, Bhamo June 16: Bhamo to Mandalay Fare June 16-18: Bhamo to Mandalay Food June 16: Baggage to Station Bhamo June 18-24 Mandalay to Rangoon Fare June 24 Baggage Transfer June 24-30 Rangoon Hotel - 7 Days June 30: Rangoon to Calcutta June 30: Baggage Transfer Rangoon Two Weeks Hotel Calcutta Calcutta to Hong Kong Fare Two Weeks Singapore Hong Kong Hotel - 4 days Hong Kong to Shanghai Shanghai to San Francisco Yokohama Hotel - 10 days San Francisco Hotel San Francisco to NYC - Fare - Berth - Meals

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RENTAL ACCOUNT - NYC June 30: San Francisco to NYC - Fare San Francisco Hotel Yokohama Hotel - 10 days Shanghai to San Francisco Hong Kong to Shanghai Hong Kong Hotel - 4 days Two Weeks Singapore Calcutta to Hong Kong Fares Two Weeks Hotel Calcutta Baggage Transfer Randooon June 30: Randooon to Calcutta June 24-30: Randooon Hotel - 7 Days June 24: Baggage Transfer June 18-24: Mandalay to Randooon Fare June 16: Baggage to Shantiniketan June 16-18: Bharno to Mandalay Road June 16: Bharno to Mandalay Fare June 4-16: Circuit House Bharno

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NOTE IN BACK OF DIARY Since leaving the U.S.A. in June, 1916 I have traveled over 30,000 miles through 10 distinct countries of distinct peoples, but not under different flags. From June 1st to December 21st, I have traveled continuously ___ for 6 months: 1. Japanese 2. Hawaiians 3. Chinese 4. Anomese 5. Shans (Siamese) 6. Burmese 7. Tibetans 8. Bengalese 9. Nepalese 10. Malay 11. Manchus 12. Koreans

ENDNOTES 1. Refers to Fiber Trunk Model Numbers 2. Near Tangku, a peculiar type of windmill was seen, a horizontal affair worked by screams of canvas which revolve about a vertical rod which pumps sea water into earthen tanks. Here it is evaporated and forms one of the chief articles of export. 3. Louis Fuertes - Famous Bird Artist 4. Curtis - Spelling in Address Listing Changed: Raymond S. Curtice, American Consul, Seoul, Korea 5. Miller - R.S. Miller - American Consul General, Seoul, Korea 6. Underwood - Note in Address List that Underwood was an authority on Korea, with a fine library, speaks Korean and has shot boars, leopards and deer in Korea. 7. Dr. Schiefly - Severance Hospital - Seoul, Korea New Style Bridge work, capable of being taken out and cleaned at times and sets on a locked pin. Old style cemented down is a germ collector. Mouthwash: Boric Acid - As much as will dissolve added to an equal amount of water.

ENDNOTES - (continued) 8. Dr. Mills - Dr. Ralph Garfield Mills Severance Hospital - Seoul, Korea 9. Kew - Kew Gardens, London 10. Farsari on Water Street in 1914 11. K. Nagasaki - 39 Water Street = mention in Heller Address List Colored slides - 50 Sen Each 12. T. Enami - No. 9 Benten Dori Itchome Colored slides 50 Sen Each Best Color and Greatest Assortment I bought 55 slides and looked over 300 different ones. He sends many to Europe and America. 13. Patrolism is worship of a father figure. 14. Roland S. Morris of Philadelphia became Ambassador to Japan in 1917. 15. Rowley was a reknown Taxidermist. 16. Miss Hilda Hempel Hooper Research Lab Argello & Parnassus Avenue, San Francisco