The diary of Edmund Heller, October 9, 1917-January 12, 1918 : covering his return trip from the First Asiatic Expedition led by Roy Chapman Andrews of the American Museum of Natural History.
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Transcription
October 29, 1917 - (continued) On the road out we met many of the Korean four- wheeled wagons, each drawn by a single ox having high withers and short horns like a Durham bull. No horses are seen in Seoul, but outside a few carrying packs may be met. The rice crop was just being harvested. Only one crop is raised. Fields of large turnips and the peculiar delicacy Korean cabbage. One field of cotton was seen. The Korean women are as alike as peas in a pod which is evidence of a race kept pure from intermixture for centuries (The Hermit Nation). They also have narrow slant eyes like Chinese, pale complexion and short, broad noses. In the men distinction may be observed owing to the whiskers which adorn their chins and upper lips. This hair growth is scanty and discouraged and nice distinctions like 9 hairs on the left and 1 on the right may be discerned. In the Chosen Hotel in pots is a fine display of chrysanthemums in bloom. Each stalk is allowed to bear only one blossom, which is thus enabled to attain large size, often 6 inches in diameter. Many cherry trees are seen in the zoo and in parks which blossom in April and give Seoul a Japanese appearance then. The famous Marble Pagoda was visited at 3pm, but the day was cold and bitter by a driving wind and overcast sky. The Pagoda was exquisitely carved, but now the marble is weathered and blackened and the carved Buddhas are indistinct.