The diary of Edmund Heller, October 9, 1917-January 12, 1918 : covering his return trip from the First Asiatic Expedition led by Roy Chapman Andrews of the American Museum of Natural History.
Page 67
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Transcription
October 26, 1917 - (continued) At 7:30pm we reached Seoul and I was driven in a motor to the Chosen Hotel by Japanese attendants who were exceedingly polite and efficient. At the hotel, in trying to change Peloung (Peking) currency, I got in conversation with the Korean guide, who then took me to a Korean theatre. We reached the place at 9pm and found it consisted of a ground floor and a gallery above. The men in the audience were separated from the women, as in China, - the women occupying the left side of the ground floor and the gallery, and the men the right side and the center. The theatre was an opera of sorts. On our entry, a prima dona of Korea was singing alone in the center of the stage, rocking backward and sideward, rather like a chained elephant in a zoo. The music was weird and monotonous and the lady waved her arms about in accompaniment, holding in either hand a long lantern like affair, striped in all the colors of the rainbow. After she exhausted herself, a bevy of 8 Korean maidens, robed in the usual white and pale green flowing garments executed a chorus to the accompaniment of a long cylindrical drum carried by one of their number. These women sang in high voices and faced each other in a line as in a Virginia reel. We departed before they concluded. The audience showed little enthusiasm but was attentive.