Document Pages

195 Pages
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Lehner, P. 1949 22 Oct. 11 up at 7:50 A.M. ; Binion ran in grabbed (possibly springs) a gun and said ducks were flying over; saw Crested Terns near camp; northwest beach of Sibylla had seven Crested Terns on eggs (about 30 ft. from water among small bunch grass); there are many ♂ Frigate birds with gular sacs blown up - throughout the day we must have seen 200-300; %40 found Wedgetail burrows about midway up Sibylla (about 100 yards from West beach; Binion, George, Chris and myself began walking up west side of Sibylla about 8:30 A.M. (above statements occurred after leaving camp); there are hundreds or thousands of small (2-4 ft.) black-tipped sharks in the very shallow water near the beach - they almost beach themselves in their scurrying around; saw Blue-gray Noddies and Black-naped Terns at north end of Sibylla ; at 12:30 we crossed the three channels seperating Sibylla and Breje and walked the east shore of Breje to its northern end; we saw many small black tipped sharks, other Grouper-like fish and an octopus (about 3 ft.) while crossing channel ; we found an old airplane wing and a whale jaw on target plane) Breje; we left Chris on Sibylla when we crossed the channel - he returned to camp on west shore of Sibylla ; we started back from north Breje at East 1:15 ; we came down east side of both Breje and Sibylla through intermittent rain squalls; there are hundreds of Red-tailed Tropicbirds and Frigates on Breje and from what we could see on Kamone (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 3/ Oct. 13 returned to base camp on Sibylla at daybreak (actually shortly thereafter - we made radio contact at 7:00 A.M. and returned after that); rain poured down all the way to camp; returned about 8:30 A.M. to Sibylla to find Roger sacked out (in the other tent) and our tent with the insides soaked and 1½ inches of water on the floor of our tent; all of our belongings, except those in closed metal ammunition boxes, were drenched - including the pump shotgun, maps, banding record book, and our cots, mattresses and sheets; also Ken's alarm clock, which was on a cot, [illegible] was full of water between the face and the crystal; however, it still worked - in fact, it even gained time; Mr. Ashton, Jim and Ben arrived about ten as the rain continued to pour down; Ben and Jim went to the shipwrecks while we discussed the situation with Mr. Ashton; after deciding that we might as well leave, we tried to get the ship on the radio by sending up smoke bombs - all we could get was a Japanese conversation; after about 45 minutes and 6 smoke bombs we got them on the phone (radio) and told the captain we would probably be out at three with all our gear; we finally decided to pack all our gear wet (the rain never did cease or show any signs of letting up); packed and left Taongi at 2:45 P.M.; when we reached the passage the surf was rolling in pretty good so Mr. Ashton had Ben (a Hawaiian who had supposedly had a lot of experience with surf) take over for me on the other boat's motor; (Over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 16 Un at 7:00 and went on watch with Binion; 7:20 Maiana Atoll came in sight off the port bow; we saw very few birds during the watch, mostly Common Noddies and Fairy Terns; our course to Maiana was 180° S until directly west of Maiana and then 90 due east; we sighted a small ship leaving the vicinity of the atoll on a N.W. course and thought it to be a fish- ing vessel - we were later informed that it was the John Williams, a Trust Territory ship, on its regular tri-monthly visit; we anchored west of the north passage at 9:05 at a distance of about 1½ miles; saw one person on the beach; it was low tide and the small boat passage was obviously impassible, but it was decided to launch a raft and have a go at it anyway - at 10:00 we started in and made two approaches at the pass and then went north and left the raft in the shallows with Mr. Hart(second mate) and waded ashore; we saw an outrigger canoe in the lagoon earlier, but he did not approach the ship; the tide was coming in and came so fast that Mr. Hart had to keep walking steadily in- land to keep up with the tide - the tide level changes about four feet; Ken and Roger went south across the flats with one gun, Larry went north with the other and George, Binion and I went inland with the radio to try to find the village; the map we were using was undoubtably outdated and our estimation of where the vill- age should be was some distance off; the other group was greeted by the first natives, as we could see them far down the beach; Dave and Jim (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 158 Nov. 16 - continued 1 were some distance behind us, but also looking for the village; we finally found one family who gestured the way and then followed a path to a small village; here we met some natives who could speak some English; they answered some our questions about the birds and indicated that the main village was on the southeast side of the atoll; we delved into our man and ascertained where the village must be and then came to the conclusion that it would be easier if the ship was moved to the southern passage and we went in from there; I called the ship on the radio, told them of our plan and indicated that we would return to the ship as soon as we could round everybody up; right then Dave and Jim came up the path; feeling that we did not have the situation very well at hand, Dave decided to meet the natives on there own terms and use some of the Gilbertese words he had learned on Makin; he stepped forward and addressed one man, "Which way to Wukiungung?"; the native in perfect English replied, "What does that mean?"; this of course, left Dave feeling knee high to a grasshopper and the rest of us in fits of laughter; he thought he was asking the native which way to the village, but learned later that Wukiungung did not mean village, but is the name of a village on Makin Atoll; we had sent Larry up the beach so that we could explain to the natives what we were doing before birds were shot from in front of them - this, however, did not seem to register with Larry - we heard him shooting just on the other side of the village as we were on our way through; once again diplomacy appeared in the form of a slap in the face; with quick explan- ations we cleared up the situation, took a few pictures and started up the beach toward the raft; Binion and Larry headed on up the beach (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 16 - continued ? to meet Ken and Roger, the rest of us waded out to the raft; with more water and the tide still coming in. I started the motor and slowly worked the raft inward shore and the other four; on the way in Jim picked up a Wandering Tattler that had been wounded and was floundering in the water; we had picked them up and were headed for the ship at 12:30; Ken had spoken with an elderly woman in the small village they had come upon and she had treated him royally - she wove a coconut frond basket and then placed in it the following gifts: dried octopus and clam, a crab, seasell and marine worms that are used as food; Jim and Dave ate some of the octopus, the rest of us abstained; birds coll- ected at this end of the atoll will be included in the list given later for today; at 1:10 we arrived at the ship, the anchor was pulled and we headed for the south passage, towing the raft; at 2:15 we anchored off the south pass in 27 feet of crystal clear, blue water; I was surprised we had anchored in what appeared to be such shallow water, but the captain assured me that the ship drew only 10 feet; at 2:45 we started in toward the main village ; we crossed the lagoon and beached at the village at 4:25; the huts here were constucted with sides and windows, and using the ground as the floor; many we had seen on previous islands were raised off the ground and had no walls; also, the men here had more tatoos than I had seen previously; we were met by a throng of natives, among them a policeman who took us to see one of the island dignitaries: the Magistrate was absent to the other end of the island and would return later in he evening; the Magistrate's hut, the wireless station, another hut and a well circumvented a large white flagpole which was set in concrete - there was no flag flying; (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 16 - continued 3 we were to see tall white flagpoles on Kuria and Aranuka atolls later, but we never did see a flag; while Binion was explaining our purpose and that we had hoped to spend the night, I examined the well and found the water table to be 10 feet below the grounds surface - it also appeared as though they had to penetrate a foot thick layer of sedimentary rock to reach the water; dogs and cats ran all around the huts; after all was said that could be said we returned to the raft: Roger and Ken went off collecting birds, Binion set mouse trans, Dave and Jim set up insect traps and George and I sat around talking to the natives; Larry had remained aboard ship to skin birds; among the things I learned from the local schoolteacher are the following: they teach twelve grades of school on each of the Gilbert islands and then the student is eligible to take an exam to qualify to go to Tarawa to school for four more years - there are three Cooperative Society stores on the island and the people in the community can sell their copra to the store and then buy goods- copra sells for 6¢/lb. and the island produces about 100 tons/year - to keep their homes in repair they must replace the pillars once a year and the thatching every three years - they use Pandanus for the pillars as it is much stronger than coconut and more resistant to termites; the Magistrate returned to the village just before dusk and talked with Binion; he wanted to try shooting the shotgun - and did so twice, much to the delight of the other natives; they asked that we stay in their transient hut, we accepted, gathered our gear and walked up the graveled path towards it; one native wanted to buy my diving knife and when I refused he (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 16 - continued 4 wanted to know how many shillings they cost on he ship - our conversation, including my explanation that they were not sold on the ship was conducted with him speaking only two words of English: knife and shirt; I also managed to tell him that I would like to see a guitar in hopes of getting some dancing started - he indicated that he would return later with one, and did; we entered the transient hut in some awe, greatly impressed with the fine workman- ship that had gone into building the hut; it was about 20'x40' and seperated into two square rooms; the perimeter was enclosed by a low fence about three feet from he hut, forming a walkway completely around it; to one side was a wash house, and setting in back was you up smaller hut, completely enclosed and with a hondo door- it looked to me like the honeymoon suite; we were told that the building of this transient hut was a cooperative village project and took only two days; there was one table and chair in each room; we were brought finer mats than were already on the floor, to sit and sleep on; later in the evening they brought in seven chairs; the crowd slowly began to grow larger outside the hut as we sat and talked with the Magistrate, police chief and other dignitaries including the wireless operator(who is usually the best English speaking person on each island); the native brought the guitar(a six string guitar with five strings) - it was tuned different than"normal" so I had trouble with even five strings; I handed the guitar back and asked if someone would play for us; the Magistrate told us that they were not informed of our coming or they would have had a party planned, however, they would try to entertain us some; the guitar began and the singing joined in, and the night was begun, we were brought coconuts from which to drink; sitting back, we experienced a very (over)
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162 Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 16 - continued 5 interesting and entertaining night; Roger chose to read and sleep through the evening which appeared to bother the rest of us more than our hosts; we made a radio check at 8:00 and picked up a conversation from the Richfield before they moved up on the frequency; two men demonstrated the old style of singing for us - they sat facing each other with their tucked under legs almost touching each other - each of them covered his right ear with his right hand and with his elbow extended toward the other singer - staring directly at each other, they then began a chant-like song that had many rapid stops and starts, but both were always singing together; we were told that their sitting position and ear holding is such that they can concentrate both eyes and one ear on the other singer and thus stay with him and at the right pitch - the words of the song could not be translated verbatim, but snooke of love; when I inquired about this kind of singing on Kuria, I was told that only the elderly were taught to sing like this according to a custom; one old man then sang a solo which was another old love song; almost all of these songs were written in the old language which we were told went out about 50 years ago; we were then shown some ancient dances; first, one of the two previous singers put a wreath on his head, a lei around his neck and then put his legs under a mat - with the others singing he then danced by swaying his body, making movements with his hands and occasionally slapping the mat - this dance (as did many of them) slowly speeded up in rhythm and enthusiasm; next they performed a stick dance - they sat in two parallel rows facing each other about four feet apart - there were six pairs, only one pair was women who were on one end - holding a stick in each hand, they began singing and swaying from side to side, hitting each others sticks (those beside them and across from them) in rhythm - after each "verse" they would stop; (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 16 - continued 6 and then the leader would say something indicating who would start singing the next "verse", that person would begin, they would start swaying again and the clack of sticks hitting in rhythm could be heard; another dance they performed was by two couples, facing each other as if about to play cards - they then began singing and clapping hands, their own and each other's, in such a rapid sequence that it was hard to discern whose hands were slapping whose amid the blur of movement; after they had finished singing and dancing we were asked to sing for them; our attempt was no better here than on Makin, but they seemed to enjoy our poor attempt anyway - George knew the first three words of many songs and would begin them, the rest of us joining in to help him out and then he would quit leaving us to sing the rest of the song - it was great fun, but was a poor display of American talent; at 11:20 P.M. a gong sounded (an old gas cylinder) and the children left to go home - the curfew was undoubtably later tonight than usual; shortly thereafter the Magistrate made a speech saying that he was not prepared to entertain us but had done the best he could; Binion expressed our thanks and the natives left us to our slumber; all evening the cool ocean air had been blowing in on us making it slightly uncomfortable and now we were faced with sleeping in it; the room in which the party had taken place had walls only half way to the ceiling while the back room had full walls, so Binion, Ken and myself took a mat back there and joined Roger, while Dave, George and Jim remained in the front room; it did not take long before we had either rolled up in a mat or burrowed under one; the night (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 17 We were up by 6:15 A.M. and stirred about gathering up our gear; George collected the rat traps which contained one Rattus exulans; we loaded the boat, shook hands and were on our way amid many "Tiakabo's" by 6:35; we had hoped to get down to the southern end of the atoll this morning to survey the birds that we were told were nesting there - they indicated that they all nested in trees and from the description we concluded that they were Hawaiian Noddies; the tide was too low to go anywhere in the lagoon except straight out toward the ship, which we did; about a quarter mile from shore Binion shot a Black-naped Tern (included in the total of yesterday); we covered the distance was little trouble outside of a loose gas line, and arrived at the ship at 8:05; George had left earlier with the island dignitaries in their large outrigger - they went through the south passage while we went over the reef and arrived only minutes behind them; their canoe was the largest we had seen to date and carried twenty men at a time. George told me later that the crew was composed of prisoners of the village who had been convicted of over indulgence in sour toddy and fighting - the island sentences for this crime run from 1 to 3 months and the sentence is served as follows: they serve their time in a local prison and work for the community during their sentence - they spend six nights a week in prison, go home Saturday noon and return Sunday evening - manning the outrigger was part of their community work; we had break- fast on board, the visitors were shown around the ship and then the anchor was pulled at 9:00 and the natives returned to their outrigger; as we rounded the southern tip of the atoll on our way to Kuria Atoll, George and I watched from the flying bridge for birds over the island, (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 17 - continued 1 but could see no birds; at 12:00 noon Binion and I went on watch; earlier there had been many Shearwaters and a Gull seen so both guns were taken onto the bow; at 1:20 Kuria Atoll was sighted dead ahead; about four miles from the atoll 12 to 15 porpoises came along side the ship, breaking water and diving for about 200 yards and then disappeared; at 3:00 we dropped anchor about a mile off the tide flooded area which separates the two islands; immediately several outriggers came around the ship, but none came alongside and boarded; seeing that no officials were coming to us, we decided to go to them and lowered a raft; at 3:50 (during high tide) we went ashore, arriving at the main village at 4:05; we were greeted here by throngs of natives who immediately poked at the inflated rubber raft, as much in awe as the other natives we had seen; one young girl appeared to be almost pure Caucasian but spoke very little English; Binion talked to the wireless operator and explained what we had hoped to accomplish; with the schoolteacher and several other dignitaries all listening intently, the purpose was outlined and we were free to pursue our task; Roger, Ken and Larry went off collecting, Dave went to set up nets, Binion went off in conference and George and I pumped the natives for information and laughs; Chris and Ray also came ashore and wandered about surveying the women; a small girl played with a balloon made by blowing up a pig's lung; I talked with an elderly English speaking man who consented to show around the village; fresh water wells showed a water table of 10 feet as on Maiana Atoll; they have a male and female prison here with a log drum outside which signals the prisoners to work - according to the (over)
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Lehner. P. 1964 Nov. 17 - continued 2 old man, they have very few prisoners a year; he went on to say that a similar drum is used to signal the islands ten o'clock curfew(which was apparently lifted while we were on the island); we wandered about the village, got the rat traps out, learned what we could from the natives about the birds and then prepared to depart about dusk - we had eaten before leaving the ship; Roger, Ken and Larry returned to the raft having collected the following birds: 1 Pacific Pigeon, 7 Common Noddies, 5 Hawaiian Noddies, and 5 Fairy Terns; we returned to the ship at dusk, but George, Dave, Jim and myself came back ashore shortly thereafter; we met most of the crew on shore and three of us were invited to the wireless operator's hut for a chat and accepted; he had two cute children and a beautiful wife who served us coconut milk; he taught me the following Gilbertese words which I wish I had known earlier: Yulcke - no, Konamauri - hello, Koraba - thank you, Tjakabo - good bye, Konaera - where are you going? we left his hut and wandered down the road; I met George, Dave and Jim and the four of us sat down by the flagpole to sing and entertain the children - we attracted about 30 children and several adults, including the English speaking old man; we sang, got them to sing and then taught them "Row, row, row, your boat" and how to sing it in groups; they learned the song very well and sang it many times while we were on the island - once when three native boys paddled Dave to the ship in a canoe, they sang it all the way out; the children are very quick to learn and are anxious to pick up any English at all - they ask your name and the name of your family members and relatives - they not only ask, but also remember them; the (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 17 - continued 3 children are quick to pick up phrases and repeat them in a voice imitating the speaker, which usually came out low and gruff; after awhile we ceased the singing and wandered down the path in search of the rest of the crew and possibly some dancing: the children followed along repeating our names and the names of our relatives; we did find some more of the crew, and a native guitar player who sang western songs he had learned off a record on Tarawa; I twisted with a lovely native girl named Demeth who immediately twisted into the back to back style: she provided a lot of fun until singing practice began next door and then almost all the females left - they are practicing for Christmas festivities; while we were on shore 20 canoe loads of natives came out to the ship, tied up their canoes to the stern and came aboard for the "cinema"; while Jim and I were waiting for the singing practice to stop and the party to begin again, a boy came up to us and said that Dave and George were at a party at the other end of the village and asked us to come; we gathered some more of the crew and headed in that direction; when we got there George and Dave were sitting in a large meeting hall attempting to sing to the 30 to 40 natives who were seated across from them: we sat down and listened while the natives sang songs that sounded like hymns more than the usual lively music we had heard before; we exchanged songs with the natives and danced a little before excusing ourselves and going across the roadway to another party where the music sounded lively; we learned later that what Dave and George had accidentally attended was a church meeting - this they had to live with for some time: across the street Jim and Ben were singing Hawaiian songs; when we entered (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 18 Up for morning chow and the day's assignment; at 8:20 A.M. we took one raft in through the more northerly passage (low tide) and dropped Binion and Larry off on Oneaka Is. (the more northern of the two islands separated by tidal channels; Roger, Ken, George and myself went on to Kuria Island; we had to go through the southern passage and walk the boat in a long ways, finally abandoning it to native children who brought it in with the tide; we arrived on Kuria at 9:10, Ken and Roger going off to collect birds; George and I picked up the rat traps, containing one Rattus exulans and then walked to the northern end of the island with two young native boys as guides - they also showed us where all the rat traps were, indicating we might have had better luck had the children not known where they were; there are many taro patches on the island, all dug to a depth of about 10 feet, but with very little standing water; the boys pointed out all the sights for us as we looked for birds and were very anxious to ask us the English word for many objects like binocular, camera, beach, stone, rock and sand; they were very quick to learn and remembered well; they took us to see George and as we approached where George was all we could see was a beautiful grave; ironically George asked if George was dead and they said yes - he had been honored in his burial spot and the monument they had chosen as a marker - they had built a picket fence around the spot - his children had been buried behind his grave; I learned later from the schoolteacher that George had been a trader from New Zealand who had been asked to work for the government when the English took control; he had lived on the island for many years, had been a friend to all and had died only two years ago; we headed back for the (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 18 - continued 1 village stopping to drink from coconuts which were provided by a man who was out tanning coconut sprouts for toddy; we followed the beach part way back to the village looking for shorebirds - we saw many Ruddy Turnstones, Golden Plover and Wandering Tattlers, as well as a couple of Bristle-thighed Curlew but nothing unusual; we passed by the school on our way back to the center of the village and saw Chris and Ray inside watching the children sing, so we went inside also; Chris had arranged with the schoolteacher yesterday to come to school today to take movies of the children singing and dancing; we got there just as they were preparing to go outside and dance, so we got to see the children twist and do Gilbertese hula; the school, the schoolteacher's house and many other huts on the island display pictures of Queen Elizabeth or other members of the royal family; one of the children in the group was carrying a Common Noddy chick- indicating that they are nesting somewhere on the island; we left the school children about noon and returned to the raft, meeting Ken and Roger there; they had collected: 1 Pacific Pigeon, 1 Reef Heron, 3 Golden Plover, 2 Ruddy Turnstones, 1 Bristle-thighed Curlew, and 2 Hawaiian Noddies; Chief Redfeather gave the children who had watched the raft a quarter and then we shewed the scads of little natives off the raft and headed for Oneakai at 12:45, leaving Chris and Ray still photographing the children; on the way into the island we approached a sand bar with about twenty Crested Terns on it so Roger grabbed the gun and swung the raft so as the shot would not carry onto the island - somehow Roger froze and the shot was never fired; (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 18 - continued 2 we had four natives with us, who were going out to the ship - they were quite disappointed when the gun did not fire; we landed and met Binion and Larry - they went to the point near the sandbar and collected 2 Black-named Terns, but could not get any of the Crested Terns we had scared up; they had collected: 1 Common Noddy, 2 Hawaiian Noddies, and 4 Sharp-tailed Sandpipers; we started back to the ship at 1:15 and arrived there at 1:35; the natives were grins all the way with the way the raft rode over the waves, bending to the contour of the swells; Binion and Larry went ashore during the afternoon, chasing birds and talking to officials; the collected birds were weighed, labeled and frozen before supper; at 6:45 P.M. Dave and I took a raft ashore - not being able to find the passage we rode the surf over the reef in fine style, arriving ashore just as Binion and Larry were leaving; we met many of the crew members and wandered about talking to the natives and sitting around batting the breeze waiting for a dance to start; Tom Jones and I went over to the schoolteacher's hut and were invited inside for tea and tuna; here we met his wife (who quickly pulled a towel up to cover her breasts), his two children and his neighbor and his neighbor's daughter - this girl had stood out in the crowd before and she had a name I could not forget, both she and the name being very pretty - her name was Terienga; we talked for about half an hour and then left to find the rest of the crew and see what they had found; as we walked down the path we could see lights and hear music coming from the courthouse (a large hut with a concrete floor, the center floor sunken and the edges elevated to provide seats; there was a table at one end); when [illegible] we (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 18 - continued 3 looked in, there was Dave dancing with the native girl Demeth from the night before; she had been on the ship earlier (with about 50 other natives) for the cinema and had returned to dance; we learned from an elderly man there that she was 19 years old and had been married 5 times - we could see how; we twisted, jitter- bugged and sang until about 12:30 when Dave made a "thank you" speech and we left; he said that he had been there alone for the half hour while we were at the schoolteacher's and they had had an auction, leaving him to buy every lei; we rounded everybody up and headed back for the ship at 12:50; the movies were still running and the natives still had their eyes glued to the screen. Shortly after we arrived on Kuria yesterday we were informed that a message had been received from Tarawa and the British officials requesting the people there to ask us to wire them as to our business if we did visit the island; apparently no word had been sent to these islands from the British Embassy in Washington and the British received word that we were visiting several of the Gilbert Islands and had sent word ahead to intercept us and inquire as to our purpose; they did not come up on frequency until 9:00 A.M. this morning when a message was sent out describing the purpose of our visit and everything was then squared away; I was informed later by Captain Krull that a Commander in the Navy had also sent a message to the British officials apologizing for the delay in commun- ications; the "gods" are back in their heavens, all's right with the world.
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 19 Arose at 7:30 A.M. for breakfast and outrigger watching; at 8:00 Binion and Dave went ashore for insect nets and last minute thanks for hospitality shown us; they returned about 10:00, we got the last of the natives off the ship, secured the loose piles of junk around the lab and were underway for Arunuka at 10:15; Arunuka Atoll was an alternated on the itinerary, but the captain consented to taking us there since it was only seven miles from Kuria Atoll; as soon as we pulled away from Kuria, Binion and I took an at sea watch but saw very little; we dropped anchor at Arunuka Atoll at 11:20 - we were now only about 10 miles from the equator; if we had had more time and the crew had not been quite as anxious with our earlier delays, I am sure they would have gone on across the equator in order to mop the deck with us in the usual equator crossing ceremony; we had chow aboard ship and at 12:25 took the raft in to shore and the main village via the west passage; the reef was very wide and we had to dodge coral heads for a half mile; a Black-naped Tern was collected on our way in - he was sitting on a stick marker above a coral head; at 1:25 we arrived on the island and found the local dignitaries waiting for us in "white" shirts and dark ties; Binion explained our visit to the Magistrate, Chief of Police and Wireless operator; he got consent to collect birds on the island, so George and Larry headed south with one gun and a multitude of native children; Dave went about sweeping the area for insects, Ray looked around the village, and Binion and I went to sign the register and then continue north on the island to collect birds; (over)
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Lehrner, P. 1964 Nov. 19 -continued 1 Ken and Roger had remained aboard ship to skin birds; Binion signed the register and then we started down the path toward the denser outskirts of the village - we were halted by the wireless operator who said the magistrate wished to go with us - we consented and ended up with a following of eight men; Binion made some good shots and thoroughly amazed the natives at what the gun could do; we went north to the mud flats and then circled through the interior to the ocean side and then back to the village about 4:30 P.M.; we put most of our gear back in the raft, had some water from the canteens(even though the natives had climbed the trees earlier and provided us with coconuts to drink out of - water still tasted real good), then Binion decided to walk back to the mud flats while wandered around the village taking pictures with Dave and the Chief of Police; the Chief took us to the school where we were surrounded by the children and conned into taking a group photo of about thirty of them in front of the school - then they waited for the finished product which never appeared; we stopped to take a picture of the new church under construction - as I was focusing, children began to appear in the picture from both sides of the frame and I had to include them in the picture; another older boy offered to let me tak e his picture, but I managed to stall him and rub him off on Dave; we finally lost most of the kids and the Chief of Police and looked for more interesting subjects; we saw many women on the other islands and on this one who wore no blouse but covered themselves when we appeared or turned to take a picture; we were determined that we would get a picture this time since (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 19 - continued 2 this was the last island; once again, however, they always pulled something up to cover themselves whenever we approached; Dave spotted one native girl taking a shower in a stall that only came up to her waste and suggested we try that, but I vetoed the idea (why? - I don't know); we finally decided that the only thing we could do was to say yukke, meaning no when they pulled a towel over their breasts and this worked fine - they were delighted to pose in this way and threw the towel away with great pleasure - they apparently felt they were expected to cover themselves in our presence; our great discovery came too late however, and we only managed to photograph two women, one of which was swimming in the lagoon and we called her out of the water to get in a group photo and then had to say yukke when she reached for a towel off the clothesline; we were focusing on this group of women, one of which had on a topless bathing suit, when George spotted us from a distance and raced over to get in the picture; however, he had not seen the one women's nudity and was quite aghast when he crowded in amongst the women and came face to face with semi-nudity; he did turn the tide on Dave, however when he saw that Dave still had his lens cap on - the comments that followed both these incidents were only natural; We had succeeded in photographing the original topless bathing suit and were content to return to the raft with one embarassed photographer and one embarassed subject; George later accepted a grass skirt from a young native girl, a half woven basket and earlier wrung the neck of fowl that was being shown to he and Larry, all of which added up to a good afternoon for George and public relations; we made a radio (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 19 - continued 3 check with the ship about 5:00 P.M. and told them we were ready to return to the ship and head for Honolulu; hands were shaken, thanks were given, pictures taken and Tiakabo's spoken as we finally launched the raft at 5:25 and headed for the ship on a high tide; we went through a feeding flock of Crested Terns and one Sooty Tern and collected 3 Crested Terns; large flying fish were also leaving the water inside the lagoon - the fact that they came inside the lagoon surprised me; at 6:20 we returned to the ship and I finally committed the act I had so often come close to before - a swell caught the raft as we were approaching the ship and pushed us aft under the generator discharge, soaking most of us with water - with most of the weight forward in the raft the propellor would not dig into the water on the turn and I did not think fast enough to force it under - the last trip of the last atoll I had finally done it! at 6:30 we had pulled anchor and were underway for Honolulu; a great relief would be felt among the crew that we were finally homebound; we all settled down for our ten days journey back - I had leaned back on my pillow to read some when the lights went out around 7:00 P.M. - I figured this was going to be the unexpected delay when on they came, only to go out again twice more - they were finally put in order and the movie could be heard again above the rumble of the engines; the total birds collected for the day is as follows: 3 Crested Terns, 6 Fairy Terns, 1 Black-naped Tern, 7 Common Noddies, 1 Hawaiian Noddy, 2 Pacific Pigeons, 1 Bristle-thighed Curlew, 4 Ruddy Turnstones, 3 Golden Plover, and 3 Godwits.
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 19 AFTERWORD Today marked the end of our island hopping journey and we had no land in sight now until we were to see Oahu in ten days; I feel it imperative that I record my thoughts at this time, as to how I felt after having the privelage to visit these islands; our records of avifauna, terrestrial vertebrates and insects, fish and plants have been recorded in books somewhere in Lab #1 and will undoubtably be uncovered by the time we reach Hoholulu and serve as the basis for any forthcoming report; knowing very little about the vegetation, having no way to survey the soils to any depth, being and inadequate ichthyologist and only a fair shot with a shotgun, I spent most of my spare time as an amateur anthropologist- sociologist and studied the natives; this was not a difficult task as they were constantly around; most authors indicate that the Gilbertese were more warlike than the Marshallese - if this is true it has certainly been lost in history - I found the Gilbertese possibly more freindly and fuji-loving then the Marshallese: this is a difficult comparison to make since we encount- ered nothing but extreme hospitality wherever we went; we were not welcomed by individuals or families, but by whole communities and by whole atoll populations - they would come from neighboring islands to wave and smile at us from their canoes, as if to say welcome; also, contrary to preconceived notions, the Gilbertese were perhaps more civilized and effected by the modern world than were the Marshallese; perhaps this is more a reflection on the Trust Territory of the Pacific (in which the Marshalls are Included) in contrast to the Cooperative Society formed by the English; whether this increased modernisation is good or bad is a question of further debate; one (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 19 AFTERWORD - cont. cannot help but notice the finer hut construction, the neater villages, the cleaner people and the more healthy atmosphere as you move from the Marshalls to the Gilberts: the Gilbertese are less lethargic, more anxious to show than to tell and more interested in remembering what you have to say than merely hearing and nodding; we did not get a fair cross section of the Marshallese and must base most of our comparisons of culture on Jaluit alone: however, the contrast was so great that the comparison cannot be completely invalid; everything we saw in the Gilberts gave the idea that the people were striving to get ahead, much in contrast to the Marshallese's contentment with their present condition; nowhere in the Marshalls did we see the school children so inquisitive and anxious to learn as we did in the Gilberts; in one realm, the Marshallese easily matched the Gilbertese - generosity; both peoples were willing to heap gifts upon us without expecting anything in return; of course, we also encountered people who wanted to sell and trade in both cultures, but these individuals had been taught this way of lif by previous white traders - this is what they were expected to do and often then they felt guilty and gave the item away anyway: a reflection on all these peoples is filled with many emotions that cannot be put on paper - they can best be described as warm, sincere, and hospitable people, filled with a vitality for life and brotherhood that is rooted in those people much deeper than the missonaries can account for - they left me with not only the desire to return, but also the feeling that I would be proud to return with a friend.
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Lehner. P. 1964 Nov. 20 Binion wakened me at 6:00 A.M. and we started the at sea watch; we found the ocean calm as a lake with very few ripples and only long, low swells: we had begun our ten day journey on a course of 053 toward Honolulu; Roger and Larry were to skin birds for the duration while Binion and I, and George and Ken alternated three hour watches - one of us on the bow with a gun, the other on the flying bridge with the record sheets; birds seen were logged as usual with the following entries: species, number, direction, height and remarks; we sighted one whale off the port bow during our watch and George saw another after he and Ken took over at 9:00; we began seeing a great number of storm petrels of different species - several were shot at but missed; about 1:00 P.M. a Marlin surfaced three times off the starboard bow, and a short while thereafter a whale spouted off the starboard beam; about this same time the water took on more ripples as the wind picked up a little; at 1:15 the crew held a fire drill; there being few birds about, I directed some of my attention to the activity stirred up by the fire alarm and witnessed a great display of poorly prepared confusion; I had earlier lost confidence in my chances of survival if we were to abandon ship and now my confidence in fire prevention dwindled; about 15 minutes after the fire drill we encountered a rain squall which did a beautiful job of wetting down the decks - it was as if the "Great Fireman in the Sky" was saying, "sorry I'm late for the drill. hope I don't miss the real thing;" I agreed; the rest of the day was a blueprint of the days to follow - we watched and Roger and Larry skinned.
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/83 Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 22 Binion and I started the first watch at 6:30 A.M.; rain fell almost continuously throughout the day and the storm petrels lived up to their name by flitting about the ship at frequent intervals; the 12 guage pump shot- gun is now broken and must be reloaded by hand: both guns are a sorry sight, being completely covered with rust, sand and corn meal: the fact that two guages of shotgun (12 and 16) were brought on this trip still amazes me - there is a far greater range of firepower among the different shells of each guage than there is between guages - not only this, but the safety hazard of forcing 16 guage shells into the 12 guage and the time consumed sorting, seems to me to be a great waste - I can remember clearly in one instance having to sort through shells in the musette bag to find 16 guage shells while the Black-naped Terns made good their escape in front of me - if there was ssome method to this two guage madness, it has escaped me; with one gun broken it has now been the procedure to have Larry on the bow with the 16 guage when the spirit (usually a shot) moves him; this morning both Binion and Larry were driven off the bow by heavy rains and retreated to lab #1 where they could leave the door open and see a limited section of the ocean on he port side of the ship; Al LaPalme was startled and I was amazed when Al had to duck back out of the way while walking up the deck in order to avoid a shot blast issuing from a barrel stuck out of the lab - I can say without hesitation that I have never seen a worse display of gun handling and less respect for the weapon and innocent bystander than I have on this trip; the fact that someone was not shot or that a gun did not explode is amazing(we still have (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 185 Nov. 23 THE FIRST MONDAY THE 23rd Today is the first of two days alike not only in date and day of the week, but also in routine; got up for chow at 7:30 and to relieve Ken so he could eat; the sea is rougher yet today and things are beginning to roll and fly about the room; the wind is out of the east, changing only during a rain squall when it usually shifts to the south; White-necked Petrels appear to be the most numerous birds seen today - they are what George calls "the bird of the day" - his prediction is that the large dark petrels we are seeing will take on more bizarre identifications as we proceed (in retrospect, I can say that he was quite correct); flying fish are very numerous. Leaving the water near the ship almost constantly; Binion and I took the watch again at 3:00 and found the seas much calmer - the ETA is now Friday the 27th; Larry has now rigged a string from the flying bridge to lab #1 where it attaches to a pair of scissors - the idea is to pull the string when a flock of birds is sighted, this pulls up the scissors in the lab signalling Larry who tears out of the lab up to the bow where he grabs the shotgun and prepares to go bang, bang; I asked him why he did not put a tin can on each end of the string and we could play telephone; it does serve to break up the monotony, however; you can pull the string, watch him tear out of the lab, tell him it was only an equipment check and then watch him get mad and mutter four letter words under his breath; I today took notice again of Dave's insect nets and decided to make a drawing of the setup for possible future reference: (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 23 THE SECOND MONDAY THE 23rd Today was almost an exact copy of its twin yesterday; Binion and I started the first watch at 6:20 A.M.; the skies were very cloudy, with the wind blowing almost directly from the northeast, stirring up the water into small choppy breakers; we came upon many birds sitting on the water, most of them unexpectedly; two Slender-billed Shearwaters (identification not positive) were collected during the watch - this was George's "bird-of-the-day" - I saw his point when there was much squabbling over their identity among those people who did not hesitate to identify them skimming across the water; when I inquired about this point I was told that it was often easier to identify them in the air than in the hand - I am still pondering this point; at 7:30 the ship was joined by several porpoises which hurtled through the water off the ships port for several hundred yards before leaving; at 11:45 the ship circled to pick up a dead bird in the water - before they could maneuver into position a circling sailfish had swallowed the bird, leaned into the air and made off with it; at 12:15 a whale was seen blowing off the starboard bow just beyond a school of milling and thrashing fish - the school of fish moved toward the ship, cut across the bow and on toward the west with the whale close behind - although it is not for certain that the whale was in pursuit of the fish, it certainly appeared that way - especially since the fish moved toward the ship; at 5:30 a White-necked Petrel was collected, just before the watch was secured; Roger and Larry are averaging about 15 birds a day between them and will have most of them up in study skins by the time we reach Honolulu if they keep up the pace.
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 24 Tuesday finally arrived, bringing with it a calm sea, a light easterly breeze and overcast sky; George and Ken had the first watch and collected what has tentatively been identified as a Kermadec Petrel (it was first thought to be a Herald's Petrel); Binion and I took the watch at 9:00 and 45 minutes later collected a White-necked Petrel - the crew is now beginning to feel we're losing a lot of valuable time by having to maneuver to pick up birds; we passed a long line of fish balls with cane poles and flags - they were strung out east and west and undoubtedly marked a fish net, but no ships could be seen: large swells came at us all morning from the northwest but were of long enough wave length that they did not slow us down; as birds became very scarce on the watch, I began focusing more of my attention on the flying fish that were appearing above the water in increasing numbers; their rapidly swishing tails can be heard when they leave the water close to the ship and their enlarged pectoral fins can be seen to quiver until they gain momentum; I remembered that Mr. Ashton had said he once spent a day timing them in their flight and found that they averaged 7 seconds out of water, the longest being 42 seconds; one could see the results of natural selection on these fish by noticing that the only ones leaving the water at any distance from the ship were large ones, i.e. one that had learned to flee at an unusual noise or sight and therefore survived; also, I noticed that the large ones very seldom stayed airborne in front of the ship, but dove instead, whereas the small ones would glide just in front of the bow; running the ship among these fish had produced an interesting phenomenon - although we can give the larger fish credit for nourishing an instinct which says leave the water and flee at an unusual sense reception, the question arises that since the ship is partly in the water and partly out, (over)
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Lehner, P. 1964 Nov. 25 Arose at 6:00 A.M. to take the first watch; since I had climbed into the pitching and rolling bed only 4 hours before I climbed out, I struggled to get an extra cup of coffee up on the flying bridge with me - trying to climb a ladder that is continually moving in all three dimensions, while you are also attempting to keep coffee in a hot cup is somewhat of a task; the water was somewhat rougher today and the air felt a little cooler, even though it has seemed cool for the last three days; the swells this morning rolled in from the east and found synchrony with the ship, rocking it from side to side to side..... at 8:20 a white rumped storm petrel was collected (the first of the trip); by 8:30 the large swells once more rolled at us from the northwest; we saw few birds, and Ken and George on their watch could boast of little more than a fish ball and fricate; only a few minutes after 12:00 noon, when I relieved George on the bow, I saw a large school of fish lean out of the water at a great distance off the port bow - they leaped only once and I was not able to identify either predator or prey; once again today we experienced a great paucity of birds and I slipped back into my philosophical thoughts on flying fish - this time I tried to attach an I.Q. to their actions, but was slowed in my thoughts when I remembered that I could not judge knowledge or recognize intel- ligence that I myself did not experience - from here my thoughts skidded to the awful realization that there perhaps existed an intelligence far greater than humans possess, but because of our lack of intelligence we cannot recognize it - at this point I was depressed and began to put all my effort into straining to see birds; at 1:30 both the wind (over)