Greenland 2 1916 Am. Mus. Nat. Hist. Geol.ic. Photographs

[illegible] GEOLOGICAL FIELD BOOK. COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY.

E.O. Hoovey, American Museum of Natural History, New York City, U.S.A.

A Roll 44 -1 - Ekblaw t Hunt in cabin J cluett 8.II.16 Flash 44-2 Ekblaw t Hovey do 44-3-22.III.16 Captain Picudo feeding some dogs. P.S.B. 44-4.22.III.16 Schooner from the south 44-5 - Jah-t'aq and his dogs beside the

J.VI.12m - 1/2° B

5 April 1916. The 'big quick' two miles west of the schooner originated in the corrosion and erosion of a mas- sive dike of diabase (?) which cuts the pink gneiss vertically and trends essentially N.-S. The dike is about 125 feet wide as exposed in the bay shore cliffs - Specs. 651 + 652 (duple) were taken about 2.5 feet from western contact. The basic dike is crossed at right angles by 4"-12" dike of light grey rock containing much biotite Specs. 653, 654 (duple) + 655 (choris, contact with the diabase. 5 April. Spec. 656. Retino skull - gift of H.C. Pickets. 15 April 1916. Heights of Cairn Mt., being the peak on which Mr. Eckelart and Captain Pickels built a cairn of rocks on or about 12 Feb-1916. It is the highest point within sight from the vessel and rises beside the big glacier ('Chett', earlier 'Cones' glacier) and between it and the double-ended glacier ('Cones', earlier 'Chett' glacier) on the south. Dr. H.J. Hunt started from ship at 10:45 with my barometer reading +700 ft or 30.20 inches + thermo. +9° and ship's aneroid reading 29.90" - see next page for table.

15 April, 1916 30.20. 27.75 2.45 Time Ship's amount Museum Jump (shift) 10:45 A.M. 29.90" East 700' (30.20') +1° East 11:15 29.90 14. J.H. 11:45 29.90 1600' 29.225 (2m) +3 12:15 29.90 12:45 29.92 3000'+ 27.75' +6° 1:15 29.92 1:45 29.92 2 + 7° 2:15 29.925 2:25 750' 30.15 This gives elevation as being 2300 feet above the sea. [0x2275' as av. of up + down readings] Top of glacier (front as we see it with) 900 feet Advance guesses were Captain Pickers - 1200 ft. Dr. Hunt 1175 Mate Davis 1250 Norman 1500 Chief Cotton 1100 E.O. Hovey 2000 Dr. Hunt reports some E. wind on the summit - Very keen. Temperature seemed 5°, at least, colder than when he left ship.

3 20 April. Crag abreast of schooner. I started about 2 1/5 p.m., clear, cloudless sky and moderate westerly breeze with temp. about +12° F for top of crag via biggully east of the igloo. Aneroid reading 2:20 sea level 100' 3 h - east knoll above igloo 825' 725' 3:15 h. - highest point of crag 885' 785' 4 h. - sea level 75 810' Average up and down 797.5' ∴ call altitude 800 feet. Ledges of gray banded gneiss are exposed in upper part of gully up which I went. Much hornblende. Squeezed band of highly serpentinized rock is evidently strongly metamorphosed diorite. Red and pink loose fragments are not quartzite but weathered gneiss. 13 April. 46-1; 8-04 Pudtlak and Kashingwa fixing kamatiks beside main cairn near igloo. ✓ 46-2; 8-04 Pudtlak's igloo with himself and family standing at the entrance. 46-3; 8-02 Kashingwa starting from ship 46-4; 8-02 Kashingwa and Pudtlak start. ing from ship at 12:40 p.m.

16 April - 46-5; 8-04 E.O.H. in full Costume for walking in cold weather, when calm or moderately windy. Journal Green III, p. 101. 46-6; 8-04. E.O.H. in full costume for cold weather sledging. III, p. 101. 22 April - 47-1; 8-02 Ridges and furrows in surface of big ("Cluett") glacier ahead of Baker Snow Body. 900 ft. A.T. 12:45 p.m. Ridges are most probably result of wind action on winter snow, forming longitudinal drifts which have consoli- dated into ice. N.G. 47-2; 8.04. Moat between glacier and eastern end of first mountain ridge on southern side of Cluett glacier. Produced by prevailing wind carrying from mountain side during snow storms and snow drifting. Bottom of moat in its upper portion is about 1130 feet above sea by aneroid measurement. 24 April 47-3; 8.04 Kirdluktuk's kamaitik and dogs about ready to start for Umanak with load of 8 bags of coal and case of milk. Fully 500 pounds. 17 dogs - 11:15 a.m.

5 47-4; 8-04. Bird Cliff west of big gulch about two miles from schooner. Shows pin- nacle, great sill of diabase in the gneiss, elevated sea-grotto about 60 feet above the bay. 47-5; 8-02. Grounded ice berg and its ice foot. North side bay about 1 mi from ship. The ice foot shows pressure and movement. 25 April. 47-6; 8-02. Crew at work cutting ice away from about rudder - 26 April. Overland from eight (cache) near Cape Dudley Digges to mouth of big gulch. At and near cape rock is dark gray hornblendeic gneiss strongly and intricately contorted. Many veins of quartz and of pink feldspar. Eight is northern end of small valley crossing the point and rather deeply incising it. Probably due to corrosion of basic dike, but now filled with mazed fractured rock from its adjoining walls of gneiss, particu- larly on the west. At crest there is quite an area of flattish grass and moss covered earth which evidently is very fertile. Grass grows luxuriantly and the place is a great resort of rabbits (hares). Note large diabase dike on plateau trending about S.E.-N.W. Frost disintegration block

beautifully displayed everywhere of course. Down to fine earth. Fragments are all or mostly subangular to rounded. Sharp angles only on masses recently broken from the ledges. Saw no er- natics of quartzite, all bowlders seemed to be immediately local. May - 9x16-1 4/35 Peter Frenchman mtn bridging dog traces. 9x16-2 4/35 Peter Frenchman as if an rivery from Cape York is - Prob ngr. 5 May 9x16-3 4/35 Brid cliff north side Parkes Snow Bay to show great cill. Cliff is about 900 ft high. Country rock is of such dark red and orange hues that it is somewhat melital that the black sill will be prominent in the photo. Sill has some large bosses I guess in it. What I took for the last fall for the upper arm of an inclined V-shaped sill in the sion is either an older intrusion or (more likely) the hornblende gneiss lying on the feldspathic gneiss. The big diabase (?) sill cuts into the hornblende gneiss at

the angle of the V and separate it from an underlying projection of the feldspathic gneiss which con- tains in places heavy hornblende bands. Spec#657 dupl#658 of diabase from large frag- ment fallen from the sill The sill disappears beneath the sea 25-30 yards west left of snow piled gully showing at left of photo 9x16-4; 4/65 Small grounded iceberg near Broken Rock point. Snow drift and roat on windward (S.E.) side- West of Broken Rock Point a horizontal sheet or sill of diabase 100+ ft thick is exposed in the hornblende gneiss. Projection in- to gneiss show irregularity of fissure. Much more altered than the big sill already mentioned Hornblende gneiss continues to Capr Dudley Cliffs. Its bound- ary with the feldspathic gneiss lies along top of Bird Cliff Rocks loosened by heat roll down cliffs. Thunderously

Rock fragments on snow and ice are smutting rapidly. They form little puols about them. Picked a rock out of its nest & had a refreshing drink. Yesterday dog digging has sunk 2 - 3 inches into the snow. Hand birds - pleasant - Bumthys I suppose Many streamlets trickle dam cliff 7 May - 9x16-5. 4/75 Captain Pickels and crew of "Cluett" (except Charlie & Ralph?) 9x16-6. 4/75 Do with Charlie + Ralph 9x16-7-10 all 4/75 Men in groups of two each. 7 - capt. + mate. 8 - Norman + chuff. 9. Ben + Taylor. 10-Ralph + Mued 9x16-11-12 - 4/75 Crew - N.B. Promised copies to the men - 8 May. Extremely fine grained black basic (diabase?) dike in the gray hornblende- biotite gneiss at sea level about 1/2 mile west of Bigquech in the Bird Cliff. Sends out stringers into the gneiss which are rich or less in thickness and thin out.

9 10 ft +/- 659. Middle of six foot part of dike. The whole dike is extremely fine grained 660 - Dupl of 659 661. Stringer in the gneiss, pre- serving both contacts. 662. Dupl. of 661 663. Stringer in gneiss, inclosing sliver of gneiss in the diabase 664-667 Soapstone from 12-18" zone & minor schist talcose schist in gneiss 1/2 - 3/4 mile east of big gulch northside Parker Snow (Cluett) Bay - = 1 1/2 mi from head of bay. 668. Biotite + Steatite lenticule from talcose schist at Eskimo soapstone "quarry" The Eskimo "quarry" from which

Pudtlak and others have gotten soap-stone from which to make lamp-stoves and pots is about 20 feet above sea level in the face of the gneiss cliff about 1½ mile from the head of Parker Snow (Cleet) Bay, north side. The best of steatite of fairly good quality is 12-18" thick and trends 190-195° mag. netic (= E 10°-15° S) [but perhaps variation is greater than 90° here or some local cause affects compass, for this reading seems to be too great by twenty degrees] Dip 70-85 N. Zone of serpentinized or talcose biotite schist is 6 to 10 or more feet wide in hornblende-biotite gneiss. Out-crop of the zone can be traced 200 yards or more in face of cliff rising toward east. See 69 - Pudtlak; quite fine bale. Gift of Melrose Cotton 14 May. Ex 17-1 - Alacutziak (= Alacotiah) beside his kamatik on wh. is lashed a kayak. (Smoke) 17-2 - Missionary and wife loading their kamatik. He is moving from Kiatek to the vicinity of Cape York

17. 9x3. Sigdlu and Mene beside Kamatik 17-4 Eqinguah & Sigdlu beside latter's Kamatik just before he started for Cape York. 16 May. 9x17-5, 4/7s- Lower (western) end of big (Cluett) glacier from top of large gneiss erratic about 3/4 mi. distant. Shows ice vertical ice front flanked by the incurving ends of the two main lateral moraines. 17.6 4/6s- Vertical ice front of Cluett glacier from point on outwash about 200 yards away. Shows curved and overturned and folded ice-and-dirt bands at right and nearly straight bands in center of field. In lower one-third of the vertical face a band of dirt varying from 6" to 24" or 30" in thickness is prominent, the wash from it soiling the edges of the adjacent ice layers. Debris consists of abundant fine gray sand and mud containing great numbers of bowlders of gray and red gneiss. In the lower left hand corner of the view are three or four large blocks of ice-and-dirt which fell last winter from the vertical ice front. Stones constantly loosen and roll down from the thick layer of dirt making a great noise in the arctic stillness which is

disturbed only by the purling of the stream of water flowing from the glacier. Many icicles should show in the photo, but the beautiful screen composed of thousands of them which characterised the face a month ago has largely disappeared. 9x17-8 4/50 Closeview (50 ft+) of a part of the ice front of the "Cluett" glacier showing tortured folds and sigmoid flexures in the layers composing the glacier. 9x17.9 4/50 & 10 4/35 Oogquiah, wife and two children standing beside Erik's topic on the beach at the head of the bay. 17 May 9x17-11 4/35 + 12 4/50 Atengana seated in her sleeping furs on the beach sewing on some mittens. Spec. 670. Atengana's stone for rubbing skins. It is a prismatic fragment of trap rock, which she thought would interest me on account of the marks in one end which resemble to bubbles of silver. 25 May. 9x18, 1-6 all 4/25 Overcast sky & foggy - 1/ E.O.H. in full costume for cold weather walking when calm or moderately windy. 2. Do. using Netsche hood a la Eskimos.

13 3. 20.14 in full regalia for cold weather kama. rest or windy tike riding as passenger, including caribou skin muffs and foxtail face protector. (G. Preneand Journal III p.107) 4. Failure 5. 20.16. in sledging costume as worn usually by Eskimo, i.e. without outside kaniskputks. (But shld. have worn sealskin instead of bear skin mittens) 6. 20.18. dressed as passenger for kamatik riding in ordinarily cold weather. 27 May. Two reels with the Srenemann motion picture camera of little auks flying, perching and billting and cooing like doves on the talus slope and cliff near the new coal cache about 200 yards from the "Cluett" 2 June. Spec. 671 - Beach pebble of gneiss cut by basic dike. Partly faulted. Head of Parker Snow Bay. 5 June - 18, 7¼35; 8, 9½0; 9, 9½0; 10, 9½25 Captain Pickels in his furs - 7+8. hood back; 9+10 hood on - 18-11 9½5 Loading a cask of water on to the Cluett 18-12 9½90 Head of bay and Cluett (run- them) glaciers from beside the vessel. 19-1 9½5. 6.VI. Loading water on to Cluett.

6.VI. Spec. 672. Beach pebble of augen gneiss from elevated beach at head of bay near igloo. 8.VI-19.2 8/75 Parker Snow Bay look- ing W from "cliff". Effects of a fine snow storm √19-3 9/75 Do. looking & N.E. √19-4 9/90 Do √ S.W. 11.VI. Spec. 673. Basic dike (hornblende) in gneiss. Talus slope at Ingissot (Ingissok) Parker Snow Bay, Greenland 674. Do. To be cemented to 673 The amount of more or less schistose (i.e. very strongly sheared) augen gneiss in large and small blocks on the upper plateau is large. These seem to be erratics. Where is ledge? √13.VI Px19-5 8/30" and 6 to 10 are 4/65°. Bright sunlight about 2 p.m. E.O it in furo, re- feating 18.-1-6 to secure better maps. 8=doublerx N.B. Chief Cotton wrapped the camera & I promised him a print of the full costume. 14.VI: Px19-11 8/295°. Little anks on talus slope above point where lumber was piled

15 19-12 8/295 Cliffs and little auks above same point. 20-1 8/90 do. 20.2 8/90 Head of bay, penutale glacier. "Cluest" in foreground at right. Some little auks still choir. from cliff pinnacle ca 200 ft. above lumber point. 20.3 8/295 Little auks perched) 20.4 8/295 do. flying) 16.VI. 9x.20- 5 - 12 all 78 %50; 6, 8/90; 7, 8/75; 8, 8/65; 9, 7/65; 10, 8/65; 11, 8/65; 12, 8/65 Series of E-0. 76 in fur costume. Taken by chief because the preceding set were not sharp. 17 Netcha, sealskin mittens, bearskin pants, kamiks, cap 6-5 7 & 8 - do. but wearing hood Eskimo style 9 - Kooletah (hood back) bearskin mittens, bearskin pants, mousakes, kamiks 10 - do. (hood forward) sealskin mittens etc. 11 - do. bearskin mittens 12 - Kooletah, bearskin mittens, bearskin pants, ka- mikphuks, muffle face protector. Mousakes 17-VI. 9x21-1 & 2 8/for Bcn, Chief + Chde. Prep little aukes on deck for feeding NY 21-3+4 w/550 , 5+6 w/1000 Flying little auks 7+8) in gullish E of Kayloo 675 - Beach pebble, Igfissok (Margyisok) Parker Sound Bay - August graiss Schistose

21.VI. 21.9+10 - 8/15 + 30 sec. Cabin store. Spec. 676 & 677 Quartzite from ledge north side Cluett Glacier (the big one) about 2 mi. from schooner. The fragments were tak- en from loose blocks, but the ledge is there and shows dip of 30° - 35° N. (a guess). The quartzite overlies and perhaps is intercalated with a highly fissile mica or hydro-mica schist. It also overlies the gneisses. 24 June. Temp in shadow of meat rack wt. pack (1- later igloo at 12:40 p.m. 43° F [in sun 47°] Barons set sea level at 12:30 1:30 p.m. 225 ft up on face of cliff near side of first E quick from igloo in my own shadow 42° Jarnum 44° to 50° as to whether the sun fell free or against dark object. All of this far is gneiss - feldspathic + micaceous with bands of horn- blende + biotite and strong veins of quartz. 2:05 p.m. 350' A.T. in shade S side green 40° Gneiss is very schistose here - contains epidotized bands + quartz lenses dips always N. 35°-40°. Slope would not slide. At 410' descibed quartzite (B) cm. formable dip Spec 678

(150 - 200 yds distance) 17 Next northern knoll overlying the foot of cliff is a banded rock but a glance at quartzite with mica mica in it 679 Climbed 30-40 yds here + then collected Sp. 680 - Micaceous quartzite(-) examining small fawned dikes. 575' A.T. If these be really quartzite the Hu- norion is to be carried up to the top of this cliff east of igloo at Canyon Lake - underlies big spurs, Loose blocks of unrecognizable quartzite die on top of the eastern knoll (form- ing west side of gulch) at brow of cliff 700' A.T. I would swing quite westward along brow + turn boundary northward near head of gulch directly above Pridtla's igloo, or around again the higher point nice cairn was built which seems to be genuine. 3:30 p.m. Base of cairn 760' A.T. Cairn measures 7'3" high on east side 28 June. Climbed shallow gulch and face of cliff 200-300 yds east of Pridtla's igloo and found Hunorion quartzite and schist forming upper 200 feet of the bluff. Is there a fault between this knoll and the cairn cliff, traversing and causing the large gulch directly above the igloo?

5 July Went ashore with Captain Coper He took photos of old tritic site, others lasts infor from SE and the oldest info here. This is one the edge of the shore cliff near Birdtable's and has been one third to one half cut away by the sliding off of the gneiss + folled cliff which is 15-20 ft high, with rock tore. Recent erosion may have been done by the tidal wave which are further discussed according to local report by Pete Frenchen & the Eskimos in spring of 1912. Strongly felt at Skamander bs. Photo W S.E. Went up face of cliff by means of quarry 1/3 mi west of cliff (see) saw no quartzite in talus or in place but on plateau at head of quarry 1- 4/2 mi W saw many loose angular blocks of gray + yellowish gray quartzite. Apparently not from from source. No areas of brecciated schist seen brink of cliffs. Mostly debri blocks & bowlders of gneiss. Went northward along edge of plateau to border of Norman's Peak. Nothing but gneiss in angular & rounded ed blocks & some honable white surprising amount of sandy soil on plateau.

North Star Bay (19 1-12 8/90 Rx - 22 - Tringa canutus nest, clutch [22.2+11 beaks] + young - taken by W.E.S. 8/90. Rx 23 - 1-7 Tringa canutus by W.E.S. 1 of 2 beaks. V 14.VII 8-10 8/25 Tringa bairdi young. faced by W.E.S. Near home at North Star Bay, taken by J.W. V 14.VIII 11 - 9/75 C.L. Exped. quarters at North Star Bay Eott V 12 9/65 Beach embankment form- ed of shingles by pressure from ice foot. Rasmussen's station

24 ✓ 17.III. 11 - 8/10 Entrance to snowbunting nest, with male about to feed the young ✓ 25-1, 2, 3 24-12, x13, +14, 15 all 9/10 Young snow bunt- ings in the nest 25-4. 8/10 Banding a young snowbunting #12, 219. 25-5, 8/10 Eider duck nest - with three eygs: Islet near the Astrup stupes. 25-6 - 8/20 Do. 25-7 # - 8/50 Urnanak Petite from the islet to show butterness of Huronian beds under the diabase cap. 25-8 - 8/10 Tern's nest on islet 18.VII. 25-9 9/25 Astrup's monument from N: 2., near view 8/50 25-10- Do fr S.E. more distant view 25-11 9/65 Thule Station headquarters Peter Frenchmen on Piazza 25-12 8/65 Lange Koch, W. E. Ekblom t dogs in front of Thule house.

(21 19.VII By W.S.S. 26/1 Nest of Old Squear near view -26-2 Do. but further off. 26-3 Young Lapland longspur. 26-4 Nest + eggs of loon - near view 26-5 Site of nest of loon 26-6 Do. at right angles to No 5 26-7 Knot & two young. 26-8 Do. 26-9 Wind blown silt in stream valley. 26-10 Cassiope association on glacial dune. 26-11 8/35 Navrana, Alnaloonqua and Inukhok beside house. 26-12 9/65 Do. but eight struck. N.B. The girls were just starting to climb the Unimak. Navrana carry- ing her 9-day old baby in her hood. Later they did not go up the butte.

8/65- 20-VII. 27-1. Group of igloos at Umanak, North Star Bay, Irostenholme Sound. 27-2 8/50 One of the igloos at Umanak, A.S.B., (Egingwaq & Alualornguak) 27-3 8/50 Excavation in refuse heap near old igloo Umanak, A.S.B. 27-4 8/50 Two old Eskimo graves at Umanak, 27-5 8/25- Near view of clump of poppies on shingle flats, North Star Bay. 27-6. 8/50 Tropicis at Umanak, A.S.B. - 5 1/2 h. 27-7 8/35 Pond and tipples at Umanak, clump A.S.B., with patches of cotton grass (Eriophorum scheuchzeri) in foreground. 27-8 8/35 I nnasok washing a netcha in a pond at Umanak, A.S.B. 6 p.m. 27-9. 8/35 - Innasok and Alualornguak (Harrigan's) + South Greenland child standing in front of Egingwa baduk tipic - 6 h.m. (EWIK'S+) + 21-VII. 27-10 8/35 Patches of Eriophorum Scheuch- eri with pond + tipples in background 10 a. looking NW: Umanak 27-11 8/50 General view of pond near south side

(23) studies at Umanak, looking S.W., to show three plant zones on border: Eriopho- rum Schenckzeii on banks, Ranunculus hyperboreus floating on the water and Hippuris vulgaris submerged with tops of stales showing. 27.12 16/10 Eriophorum Schenckzeii, close view of a small clump. Spec. 681 Diabase from the large surface of ledge rock exposed near our house. [Sun 1.26] 31.11 - 28-1 (graphic) 64/5 Quadrant of pathic, near igloos at Umanak. 28-2 8/25- do 28-3 64/5 Looking WSW from Umanak - edge of Umanak Bight, northernmost icy sands 2s with 3 igloos in foreground (Salisburia) Earls Driftwood & matter. 28-4 32/5 Quadrant of Ranunculus near igloos Umanak- 28-5 9/25 do 28-6 32/5 Diabase boulder on ledge at Umas nak. split by frost?

28-7 32/5- Pond at Ummamate to show Pleurogon Sabinei, looking N.W. 28.8 12/5- Do in attempt to get the background of Nordskolinie Sound Rasmussen Glacier straight. V.III. 28-9 37/5 (Overcast) Our sleeping tent 28.10 32/5 Frost-split bowlders 3.VIII. 28.11 + / 2 W.A. 32-Time N.S.B. looking S.W. 29-1 Do. {+ including holiday 29-2 W.A. 32 Time North Star Bay looking S.W. including P. Freuchen's house but not quite all of the bay. 29.3 - 6 1/2

(6.VIII 28.10. 3½s Umanak. Frost split block & quartzite on the plain. 29.5 3½s Umanak. Frost split block of slaty rock (diabase?) on the plain. 29.6 3½s Umanak. Tilted stones and raised dike like side (down hill side) of furrow formed over subsoil drainage channel. 29.7 8/25 Third view from in front of our house, west half North Star Bay 7½m 29-8 8/25 Do. east half 29.9 4/25 8p. Umanak. Flitch of narwhal meat drying on diabase cliff near igloos. Taken from canoe. 29.10 8/25 8pm. Umanak. Igloos from off shore in canoe. Erik + Pauline are standing in front of one. Shows Q.C.'s diggings at the left. 7.VIII - 29-11. ½s Umanak Rock (diabase) shore near igloos to show rounding effect of frost action below high tide mark - 29.12 6½s Do 30yds N of preceding -

29.VIII (Written 7.VIII) Went with Ekacross the plain and part way up the Umana- nek - He called my attention to the dice- like embankments along one side - usually, if not always, the downhill side - if the furrows running over the subsoil drainage lines. Prob- ably connected with freezing and thaw- ing above the ice table. The subsoil drainage seems to follow cracks produce by shrinkage at and below the level of the ice table. Flat stones stand on edge and usually are arranged lengthwise of the furrows. Phenomenon of the unequal around frozen soil. Spec 682 + 683 are slabs of Hur- onian shale showing fossil mud cracks. Spec 684 Natrolite(-) Aragonite (:1 filling of crevice in the Huronian. Much of this material is scattered in frag- ments over talus slopes and plain - 8 August. Visited top of Umanak Butte with Ekblaw, Dr Hunt accompanying us to the base of the vertical 60 foot cliff formed by the edge of the diabase cap of the butte. Buttresses of Huronian

27 slates, chales and quartzite at about 550 ft. above the sea (anemoid). These dip gently toward the west or south of west, and this is the highest exposure of them in the hill, their upper limit above the slope topping the buttresses and at the lower contact with the diabase being about 600 feet above tide. where we scaled the cliff the diabase sill is about 60 feet thick. This seems to be its thinnest part. The upper sur- fice of the plateau is roughly oval in outline, with its longer diameter running approximately E.-W. for about 300 meters. The surface of the plateau is gently undulating in contour and its highest point is about 710 feet above the sea. Its general slope is slightly to- ward the W.S.W. The side of diabase thickens toward the west and is not less than 100 feet thick at the western end of the butte, when the diabase rests on massive buttresses of the sedimentaries. The effects of chemical weathering and mechanical disintegration are prominent in every direction; oxidation with and without hydration, flaking and round- ing of corners and edges, polygonal cracking on vertical as well as horizontal surfaces, sand and gravel, "desert varnish", carving by wind and wind blown sand (and snow?) Induration of the surface rocks is particularly shown along

crevices . In many places on the plateau these crevices are marked by a wall 2 to 4 inches wide and 1 to 2 or even 3 inches high, extending in straight or nearly straight lines for several or many yards. Etc's photos - Exposure 2+3 %50 A pillar of disin- tegrating rock shaped like the bust of a woman. Etc4 / %50 Escarpment at western end of the Umanak. Spec.685. Fine-grained diabase from near base very contacted of escarpment eastern end of Umanak Butte showing development of magnetic crystals by fumarole action along crevice. 600' A.J. Spec.686. Diabase from about 2 feet from be contact at base of escarpment eastern end of Umanak Butte . One face shows groups of small pyrite X's and epidote(?) on old fissure surface. 600' A.J. Spec.687 Diabase from about 2 ft. from contact at base of escarpment eastern end of Umanak Butte. Duplicate 600'A.J. Spec.688 Diabase. Coarsegrained. Eastern end Umanak Buttle . 600' A.J. Lower part of sill 11.VIII. 30-1 %65 VUmanak. View up (N2) Wostenholme Sound to show ice +

29 R. berg in the fjord. Eggewah's & Syng with Badu's topics in foreground. 30.2/65 Umanak, looking W or N.W. across Westervolne Sound to show berg. Nechutislasoki (Aragonites) - topic + fjord with Floriupgon in foreground. 11.VIII: 1916. Went with Steblaw to cliffs of Huronian sedimentaries forming south side of North Star Bay and at about one-half mile from heady bay collected Specs. 689, 690, 691 of the aragonite(?) and calcite and aragonite (?) bands intercalated with the shales. In the two specs. (690 + 691) wh. show calcite, that is above the aragonite in position. There are many of these bands in a zone not less than 15 or 20 feet thick and they extend for long distances with much regularity of thickness, though all are thin. As shown in these specimens the bands 1 1/2 - 2 " thick contain partings of shale. None that I saw exposed here showed clear aragonite(?) as thick as spec. 684 from loose fragments in the Umanak Bay.

12:VIII 9c.30-3 8/25 North Star Bay from point near house. Very cloudy. 13.VIII - 30-4 8/30 Knud Rasmussen standing beside his house at Thule, North Star Bay. 30.5+6 8/50 The Eskimo dog "Saint Peter" 25 Aug. Went to head of Mofenholme Sound in the motorboat "Niger Lis". Moltke Glacier (vide Rasmussen) has advanced greatly in past three years - judging from point which he pointed indicated as its front in 1913, I should think the advance to be -- more than a mile. Low promontory near head of fjord, south side, is gray gneiss. Fine old stone igloo - all stone even in roof, no wood. Last occupied by Esk. in winter 1907-8 (or 06-07?) 15.VIII. 9c.32-1 Wo/50 Fitzclarence Rock, Booth Sound, from N.W. at 8:45 p.m. Basalt cap on sedimentaries - a cy- linder standing on a regular cone. 16.VIII 9c.32-2 4/50 Narsak. Ca 9 a.m. - Three ^ Eskimos in kayaks - Kuslutoik (= Kood-look, to of Peary + MacMillan) Kakatak and Inniak (son of Kolutingmak).

(Artist) 32-3 4/50 Aasak, Iniaakin Kyvek. 32-4 8/100 Narsak valley and small pied- mount glacier east of it. From the N. on the morning "Ingerlis" 32-5- 8/100 Northumberland Island from the S.E. From morning "Ingerlis". 32-6 8/100 Eastern part of southern coast of Herbert Island from S.W. From "Ingerlis". 32-7 8/10 Illugset, Herbert Island - Western part of settlement of 11 tupics. 32-8 8/10 DO. Eastern part. 32-11 5/25-DO Illugset. Avianqorneq (Amanik's sister, Tungviki wife) laying out fair of Karrile for Captain Corne to be made) 32-12 7/25 Illugset. Group of women and children in front of Tupic - Inalik with small baby. 33-1 9/25 Illugset. Igloos in process of construction. Front view 33-2 9/25 DO. Interior.

two-family 33-3 9/25- Ullupser. Large igloo on process of construction - Tanquiski + Inakuti 25-VIII - See p. 30. 29.VIII Eider Duck Island - Gray feld- felspathic gneiss including rounded masses of hornblende gneiss. Excellent example of an igneous gneiss carrying magmatic inclusions of an older gneiss which have been rounded by resorption. Highest point of the island is 60-75 feet above the sea. This and other points have been rounded and smoothed by the grinding action of the sea ice and many other smoothed surfaces indicate abrasion by the ice. The gneiss is intersected by many veins of pegmatite. These consist mainly of feldspar and some are strong - 1 to 2 ft. across. Dalrymple Rock. Landed on the eastern side. Strongly contorted gneiss of different aspect from that of Eider Duck Island. Pre- dominantly a gray felspathic gneiss with numerous great veins of coarse peg- matite consisting principally of feldspar. The feldspar pegmatite breaks down under the action of the frost more rap- -idly than the gneissic country rock, sallow trenches being formed thus

33 Saw one string of magnetic including of hornblende spheres showing resorp- tion edges. Three of four of the included masses formed the series. Surface of Dalmptle Rock is very jagged and broken, but the points up to at least 60 feet above the sea (as high as we climb ed - on a side knoll) have been somewhat smoothed and rounded by ice action. 30 August - Western (or S.W.) point of Saunders Is. "Kond's Harbor" Cliffs are remarkable for their verticality. Go down sheer into the water. Collected specimens of the purplish pink rock which on nearer view looks more like limestone than it does like the quartzite or sandstone that I have supposed it to be. Easily scratched with knife blade. Dark gray is shale. Light gray seems more like an impure limestone or cal- careous shale - specimen. 11 September - Swid or crusty fl. seep. 43 [700] 15 September. Etah. Collected ctentorhors in front of house and are trying to preserve them. Got two species of Colle- [comment] ania or a related genus one with contract- ed top and tentacles six or eight times as long as the body, the other with more expanded top and much shorter the tentacles. Bodies 1-1/4" across.

At least two species of "Beroe" one looks like a rose-pink musk-melon of all sizes up to about three inches in diameter, as it floats in the bay. Seems usually to float with infundibulum up and mouth down. Lying in the tray, the shape is that of a circumber and the largest specimen obtained measure 4 1/2, 4 3/4, 5 inches long and 1 3/8 - 1 3/4 inches across. Infundibular end is rounded, oral end somewhat contracted so that the mouth is not bell shaped as in figure of "Beroe forskalii" of p. 211 of Textbook of Zool. vol. I. Parker & Haswell. Common another form, represented by one specimen, is more brown in color, broader in proportion to length, when compared with preceding, and mouth is more expanded. collected one specimen of a large (7+ inches) "Beroe"(?) circumber-shaped form which was perfectly colorless except for dark brown lump at the infundib- ular end of the mass - This was more delicate than the other forms and was torn to pieces in transportation and transfer with inadequate tools. These rose pink "Beroe"s are slightly phosphorescent. "Akrpiasua"

Spec 701 35- Another common coelenterate is a bell shaped animal 1 - 1 1/4

Above Provision Point and from 100' to 150' above the sea there is a consider- able area of gneiss which shows the characteristic rounding, smoothing, and grooving which are due to gla- cial action. Motion was from north- east- parallel or nearly so to axis of glacial Surface is now covered with lichen but the striation is perfectly visible. north 21 Sept. Went along shore of fjord for about a mile east of headquarters. The great pile of gravel and boulders near the foot of which the house stands looks like an accumulation of torrent débris and presents three elevated strand lines or beaches above the sea. Surface is mostly rounded and smoothed bowlders some of which are 3 feet in diameter. Pink feldspathic gneiss predominates but there are many boulders of black hornblende gneiss mingled with them. This detrital fan is about a half mile broad at sea level. Mac thinks it is a glacial moraine or accretion of the bowlders on top, but I think that the finer material has been washed out leaving the bowlders. I have not yet obser-

37 ed stratification in the walls of the great gully cut by the present stream. This gully shows the big bowlders on the surface of its bottom and has raised borders. Considerable water comes down here in the summer season. About a half mile east of the house we encounter the massive greiss forming the shore for a half mile more or less. This is a pink feldspathic rock containing many bands of hornblendeic greiss, the latter being intersected by countless veins of coarse feldspar and quartz, feldspar predominating. Projecting points are rounded and have been smoothed by ice action. Perhaps this can be correlated with the glacially smoothed and striated surface on Provision Point (see p. 36) 22 Sept. Advancing up the fjord the hornblendeic greiss increases in proportion and seems to be the only or predominating rock from 1 1/2 miles. 23 Sept. [illegible] 30.7 8/25 Glacially rounded tops of greiss above Provision Point. About 100 ft. above the sea. Looking ca N.

23.IX.9.30-8 Glacially rounded, smoothed and striated area of gneiss beyond and a fore Provision Point. 100 ft. above sea Looking ca W. by S. 30.9 8/25 - Glacial grooves. Same region. Near view looking S.W. 30.10 8/25 - Same as 30-8 30.11 8/25 - Glacially rounded surfaces of gneiss above next point west of Provision Point. Dark hornblende gneiss. 30.12 8/25 - Front of valley flow (Solifluction?) of gravel and boulders. Near view. Solifluction? Half mile west of Provision Point. 31-1 8/25 - Near view of small very smooth surface of gneiss which, like others in the vicinity, has been protected in some way (probably by a filling of gravel) from too much fracture. Point west of Provision Point. 31-2 8/25 - Headquarters and the gravel-boulder bank behind it, showing three elevated beaches above the house beach. From ledge above Provision Point.

39 25 Sept. climbed with mac to top of thermome- ter hill forming western extremity of the northern side of Foulke fjord. my anroid gave elevation 1625 ft., his 1000.- on his as- cent a week ago he got a reading of 1050 ft. thermometer wh. he left-there a week ago gave min. 8.90 max 34°. The cap of the hill is a bed of diabase 30 to 40 feet thick. Specimens No. 694 & 695-both spec 696 was taken from bed of much decon- posd diabase(?) lying below the cap and perhaps separated from it by a bed or beds of quartzite. Upper portions of thermometer hill show gravel + boulder streams or flows (solidfication) in exceptional develop- ment. 50-100 feet below summit on western side there is a well marked flow of this kind which seems to be 150-200 yds long and 20-40 yds wide, descending east southward. The rock illustrated by spec. 696 disin- tegrates into bullet-like gravel scatter- ed through ferruginous yellowish brown sand and this mixture flows down hill like a stream or glacier. The level portion of the hill 850-900 feet above sea is a regular quicksand or quag- mire mixture of clayey matter + quartz bits-

Kayak & velos Kamatic showing bow and cat Kahda fecir

41 4 October. 9x31.3!5/35 - Looking out Toward mouth of fjord from near house. 9x31-4 8/35-V Cove in front of house. Low tide showing cakes of ice on partly destroyed ice foot. 7 October - Spec. 697. Quartzite peb- tle from terrace near house - Shows worm burrows (?) (and rounded 20 Oct - Starr Island is well covered glacially 25 October. Mac, Jot and I with the help of Tutakasu and McCarpingwah set a line of stakes across Brother John's glacier, about one-third mile from lower end - Perhaps 500 ft above the sea. Mac used theodolite and considered line to be normal to the axis of fjord and glacier - Stakes are ordinary inch gas pipe about 3'6" long and are sunk in auger holes 14 or 15 inches deep. There are 16 of the stakes and the intervening spaces measure from 50 to 100 yards in length. Outer stakes are on brink of steep sides of the glacier bordering the side valleys. All are set in the tops of hummocks of solid ice - The surface of the glacier is extremely hummocky, there being

scarcely any level surfaces to be seen. There is a large river channel near the west northern border of the glacier which is the bed of a considerable stream dur- ing the summer. Hard walking on the uneven ice without creeps, but we got along fairly well when we kept the bottoms of our kames free from snow. I tried some hot-nailed mading moccasins that had been brought up with the idea that they would be useful in pro- tecting kames on rock work, but they were of little use. Captain Comer determined the ice to be 2 3 1/4 inches thick and the water about 12 feet deep at a distance of 50-75 feet from the front of the glacier. Largest Trout (salmon trout) caught to day measures 2' 3" long + weighs 5 3/4 lbs. It was caught by Admiral. Ice cracked frequently under some pressure - probably both from the glacier and inflow of water. To be investigated. Kahdd caught a little trout that seemed to have much larger fins proportionately than the other fish. Spec. 698 26 October. Thawed out wrapped in in cheese cloth and placed in 75% alcohol in a 5 gal milk can

43 the trout caught yesterday by Kahda and four salmon trout brought back by the Eskimos from their fall caribou hunt. These were caught in a small un- charted lake a short distance inland from Advance Bay, Greenland, in lat. 79°8' N., just south of Humboldt- glacier. The fins have become somewhat damaged by spring trans- portation in a frozen condition, but these fish come from the northern locality thus far reported in Greenland itself and they are preserved for identification. 25 October Spec. 699. Fetus taken from womb of seal killed through the ice of Bancroft Bay Greenland, on 15- October, 1916, by Akputishao. Placed in 10% formaldehyde. Trans- ferred to 75% alcohol on 31 October. Spec. 700. Decapod (squid or cuttle fish) collected by Accommodingah on the beach at head of Tonneke Fjord on 11 (or 10?) September and brought in for Panikha. Placed first in 50% alcohol, later strengthened to 80% alcohol in which it grows. N.B. Full information given on 1 Nov by Kuaapingualt (A'son) who says there are common

Spec. 701 - Beroë Calliaris & see pp- 33-35 of this book Feb., 1917-Radcliffe Island-i.e. the first and largest of the three islands forming south side of entrance to the fjord-is of horrible green containing many granitic veins. Much gravel mixed with small cobbles occurs on the island. The exposed rock ledges are well groo- ed and striated glacially. Movement of ice apparently from northeast. The proportion of rock exposed is less than on Storn Island. More gravel. 9 Feb. Visited Brother John's Place. Ice of lake proves some advance of nor- hern portion of glacier during the winter. Ten to thirty feet in front of the glacier a ridge of lake ice has been raised roughly parallel to the front of the glacier. Where largest this ridge is approximately ten feet high with sides sloping at 45°. This would indicate a crude estimate of 8 feet of forward motion in the past 100 days, or about 1in. per day. The ice is broken at the top of the arch. It rose from the surface of the lake and left an open space. Roof is per- haps 15 inches thick. Mac tells me

45 that he and Ekblaw entered the open arch or grotto thus formed in 1915. They could stand upright in it. Four could easily have stood there then. He took photos. Note on Perret camera - Speed 6 seems to be about the same as speed 4 of Graflex ... aperture 4 cm speed 6 of Perret gives ca 1/25 sec. exposure 7 1/2 = ca u.s. 10 ; (7 1/6 = 16) ; 18 = 20 ; (20 = 24) ; 7 2/5 = ca u.s. 39 ; (32 = 64) ; 36 = 84 ; (128 = 45) 7 5/0 = " " 160 The latest exposures of 12 1/2 / 4/16 (= 10/25") on Penker Snow Point and of 18/4/16 (= 20/25") on Ekblaw glacier nearer on 11. VIII. 1915 gave very good results. We were only three or four miles distant (perhaps less) when these views were taken. Film exposures of same diaphragms and times on more distant mountains and ice masses a month previously were too great. Approximate table (compared with Graflex) 1 cm 2 cm 4 cm Tension 6 | 1/95- | 1/75 | 1/25- " 9 1/295-| 1/90 | 1/35-

7 March Visited Brother John's gla- cier. Visited line of stakes but could not be sure from unaided eye observation that there has been any movement. A stake in the middle of the southern half of the line is or seems to be further west than the others, but this may be due to original setting. At the base a second ridge has risen south of that noted on p - 44. This is larger, longer and higher, the crest being 15 feet above level of late ice in its highest part. The stoss (glacier) side of the ridge shows beautifully the direction from which the pressure came, being flexed back at top to and beyond the vertical On the distal side of the ridge the ice has been bent down below the general level of the lake surface forming an open hollow 1.5 - 2 ft deep. A similar hollow was formed on the proximal side of the ridge, but water got in and it is now full of new ice. This ridge extends from the north to or beyond the middle of the front of the glacier. Apparently it is the result of movement which has taken place within the last four weeks, amounting to at least 10 feet horizontally. Relations are approximately as represented in the following section -

47 Lone Nr <---50'--> Place E

49

51

107

109 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

1916 January S M T W T F S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 April S M T W T F S 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11/12 13 14 15 16 17 19 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 February 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 May 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 March 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 June 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 July 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 August 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Courses across Melville Bay (H.C. Pickels) Cape York to Cape Seddon True E by S 1/2 S = 107° True gcorr.mi. Magnetic 1st 20 miles 197° statute mi. 2d 20 " 195°30' 22 1/2 3d 20 " 194° 22 1/2 4th 20 " 193° 22 1/2 5th 20 " 192° 22 1/2 6th 20 " 191° 22 1/2 Last 10 " 190° 11 1/4 Dist. C.Y.-C.S. 130 geogr. = 150 statute mi. Cape Melville to Cape Seddon True S.E.by E. 3/4 E True=116° gcorr.mi. Magnetic 1st 20 mi. 206° statute mi. 2d 20 " 204°30' 22 1/2 3d 20 " 203° 22 1/2 4th 20 " 202° 22 1/2 5th 20 " 201° 22 1/2 Last 5" 200° 6 Dist. C.M.-C.S. 105 geogr. = 121 statute mi.

Courses across Melville Bay - H.C.P. Cape York to Cape Seddon. True = 107° = E.by S.½ S. magnetic 1st 40 mi. 197° = 45 statute mi. 2nd 40 mi 194° 45+ " " 3rd 40 mi 192° 45+ " " Last 10 mi 190° 11+ " " Dist. C.Y. to C.S. 130 (150) miles. Cape Melville to Cape Seddon. True = 116° = S.E.by E.¾ E. magnetic 1st 20 mi. 206° = 23 statute mi. 2nd 40 mi 203° 45+ " " 3rd 40 mi 201° 45+ " " Last 5 mi 200° 6 " " Dist. C.M. to C.S. 105 (121) miles. Note, the record of the daily

AMNH LIBRARY 100231692