Diary, 1911, of trip to Wyoming

Jackson May 1. 1911 Interviewed J.P. Pfisterer (Bondurant P.O.) About 1000 or 1200 elk content in Hoback Basin above the Canyon. There was practically no loss from starvation. A few born killed by wolves. There was a fair proportion of Calves. Most of these were "Hoback elk". Many Summer and Calve about the lakes, Granite & Horse Creeks and these go into the Hoback Basin to winter. There has been some killing for meat since season closed. Elk do not bother haystacks in the Hoback Basin. They live mostly on the ridges which have been blown bare by the wind Some wintered on Cliff Creek ridge Some go south of Bear Creek in Spring and several hundred cross them and come back in winter to the mouth of Hoback Canyon. The region is much hunted in fall by outsiders. There is much need for a game

Workmen in the Hoback Basin Is in favor of the Gros Ventre Regions - to be under Federal control Mule Deer winter in Hoback valley, in good shape. Sheep & killed on Cliff Creek East fall. Some on Landhook Mt., seen sheep tracks on Shovel Creek and Toward Granite Creek Wolves kill some elk but do not bother domestic stock here A few moose in Hoback Basin One seen near Plow East A few antelope come in in Spring but are seldom seen again until fall. Domestic Sheep are coming in to Cliff Creek and are over-racing the deserted bands - the summits of Hoback basin on the South. May 14. Jackson Mr. Newell and I took trip up on the hills east of town. Saw a bunch of about 40 elk which were feeding at the edge of the snow, which covered all the country, much of the rim of the Gros Ventre foothills excepting some south hillsides. The elk did not seem to be in very good shape but were strong. They now become shy and it is not easy to get near them. We found a bighorn Sheep which had been killed by wolves. Returning we saw a skull of a Mountain Sheep about many years old. A very large bull elk was lying at the foot of a cliff and seemed to have been shot but its decomposed condition made it impossible to prove this. It seems that the animal was still warm San Gader Eagle with a Steel Fork on one foot.

May S. Jackson We went up on hill south of Coche Creek nearly to the summit Many elk had continued there and had cleared up the foliage from the spruces cut for timber and food. Practically none had lived in the same roots among the aspens. The elk had broken a good deal of browsing the bark from the trunks and browsing on the smaller branches. From a fine blue gronce from a spruce tree. May 10, Jackson Brought up along the west edge of the ramp for about 3 miles. The elk now deserted the ramp entirely within the last 2 or 3 days. Previous to this time that have remained at least 200 from the winter herds. Some of their have gone back and forth between the hill and the ramp, when they have been getting good feed. During the past few days however the ramp has softened a great deal and this probably caused the ek to score. Until lately, the ground beneath the grass has remains solidly frozen. [illegible] 1 Mallard with one egg

May 12. Jackson to South Park Road Mr. Morlin and I made trip on foot from through South Park to Jeffert's The elk had entirely left that part of the rally and we saw some rotation on the bordering hills. Mr. John Nelson however told us that in the evening he still saw a few on the upper sluices. He said that the elk which were in the rally when we went last down (Apr 26) all left that evening and the next day. May 13. Jackson Mr. Morlin and I went up on the hills South of town and walked along to above Spencer's. Returning through the meadows along Flat Creek We observed 2 blue grouse shooting at a distance of less than 20 feet. Both were on the ground. They stood with the head rather high and the feathers of the neck ruffled up. Sometimes that was drooping and only slightly expanded, sometimes at an angle of 45 degrees and partly expanded and sometimes upright or slightly forward, and fully expanded after shooting several times the bird would walk slowly along usually feeding. The tail moved then as held high and well expanded the other feathers drawn flat except the ruff surrounding the pouches. These feathers proved to be sharp, radiated away from the orange patch which is well inflated. The neck at a little decline is a black band with a large white field on the neck. Two white patches with a bright orange center. One in a circle a bird will keep a

fast or too in the air with several quick beats of his wings and land facing the opposite way. This seem to be a challenge and is immediately answered in like manner by another male if one is within hearing. One of the birds performed on a bauld genre. While performing they are plainly visible for a long distance if the ground is open as the contrast of black, white, and orange make a very conspicuous object. May 14 Jackson Took a trip up on the hill south of town and took pictures of two blue grouse in the act of shooting. May 15. Jackson Went over to Mr. Mullin and got some notes on property in the Drap. The Aspen or shuttered places here begin to put out their leaves. In the afternoon I made a trip up the west side of the Drap and went on the latter, crossing the gap which crosses to near Flusk, and then started the west side north road nearly to Chevy the arrow reaching the road near Batchus. On the Batch some person pulled branches off all the willows apparently in good shape and ivied. I saw very few dead ones on the latter. The elk even eating every green thing from the tender tops of the sagebrush. A large Sierra plum with a simple flower-like form seems to be a favorite food.

May 16. Jackson J.R. Wilson of Alta. He's been through an element that is attracted by the abundance of game and the opportunity for illegal hunting for meat or turkeys. The first settlers were Trappers and Hunters. Thinks elk have decreased 50% during the last 2 or 3 years. Thinks there's not over 12 over all within a couple of the Park divide. Thinks the Game Preserve is a good thing but strives to be patrolled. Thinks the western boundary should be this summit of the range, unless a preserve shows the established in Idaho. Is in favor of State control but thinks the militia is getting worse and that the game will have to come under Federal Control. Does not think that Federal and State Cooperation will be feasible. If Govt. should appropriate money and turn it over to the State, he thinks it would result in dissatisfaction and 205, Lee gillie, 4 auditor compose Game Commission. Gov't has no interest. From the other point of view. The ultimate taking over of control by the Govt. Would like to see the Game Preserve ceded to the State and thinks that condition would improve eventually, but thinks that affairs moved retrograde during the next 4 years. Hopes that conditions would improve later. Tomorrow, elk come into this settled part of the Country and it will be necessary to acquire a suitable area for a winter refuge. Does not think the reason should be opened left any. Thinks was a concession to the non-residents. Does not think this will interfere with the only crop as long as the remaining plenty of bull. The calves, left without mother might as well be killed on the spot. The early opening of the season attracts the non-residents who kill mostly bulls. The residents from a distance also kill bulls mostly. The settlers however who kill for meat kill cows mostly.

(R.Miller - file J.R.Wilson is opposed to the arrank as a rifleman, cannot be fenced out and would interfere with the settlers. Would like to see some [illegible] ranches. State Game Warden who would feed them in the winter and allow anyone to kill them in season up to 10 head at $70 a head) (aimed a license as a starter) An about 100 or 160 ranches east of the Teton range north of Bridger, Custer Canyon was raised in 1908 (3000 - high as free) Hunter from Idaho. Could just cross the Idaho line and hunt into Wyoming, take the elk back into Idaho within camps. I have heard cattle around on The head of Berry Creek in 1908 Mule deer are practically all gone about Alta. In 4 years in The westerly part of the Gann Preserve seen only one deer tracks. Saw 1 at alta last year and then over 5 near them. In 1932 there were at least 200 deer crossed through his place coming from the Teton mountains in Idaho. In 1889-90 a few wintered around Alta and in Teton Canyon. Now now winter them. Heard of a very few wintering in Teton Canyon this winter. More have been seen: 2 killed last August near Alta. Now before for 20 years. As a foot many in the western part of the Gann Preserve between Squaw Creek and the Park Line. As some at Cottonwood Oak (British Creek) as Jackpine Creek

More as firefield in the Park and this helps to state the adjacent Country Beaver are incising on the west side of the Game Reserve. Are especially common on Conant Creek and its branches the southern limit Now come in from the Park long been trapped out years ago. How down up tiller valleys and in one place have built a dam 50 feet long and made a pond a mile long and 1/4 wide at the upland of this pond they have a dam 200 feet long This is on Winegar's Hot Creek A Subutary of Fall River Martin as still found a small numbers on Mt. Neer Alta. One Happe caught 43 a fall of 1909 from Alta. Are not many on the West end of the Game Preserve but all all corn. Black Bears now rather common went Game Preserve in 1908 Trail of one grizzly seen on head of Conant Creek in 1909. Henn saw a Wolverine. Tracks on the West end of Game Preserve Have seen tracks of 3 Mt. Lions in fall of 1909 on Jackpine Creek a branch of Bitch Creek. Henn saw any evidence of thin hony killed Game. Never knew Bears to kill any other than large game or any domestic stock A few Lynx are found. Was never seen or heard of a Wolf Track. Thin Coyotes are plentiful but do not kill much game Mink are quite plentiful

Forces need to be plentiful but are now rare A bobcat was killed on Zeltn Creek in the canyon 15 years ago or more Mt. Shiek A few along the Zeltn Range. a year ago last fall some trucks 7-6 rams near the head of Leigh Creek which heads near Glacier Creek tributary of Jenny. Do not think they winterkill. Ruffed Grouse have increased greatly To Thanks owning to the trapping entry of the Martens. Some have raised the young in his garden. Saw a 2 grown down on spring for 9 years ago Blue grouse are common at 9000 feet and below. A Ptarmigan was seen last year in the valley of Zeltn Creek at 6400 feet. Antelope used to be common near Alta 22 years ago; existed about 9 years. Now none

May 17 Jackson The day was cold and cloudy with threatening rain. We made a trip down the S.E. side of Flat Creek. A mule deer was seen for the first time today. May 18 Jackson Made a short trip around the valley observing a number of birds Panning and skimming evening. May 19. Jackson Two or three inches of snow on the ground the morning and on the hill about the snow was deeper and deeper. On the summit of the Jeton Pass a goat and a Ruffell May 20 Jackson to Bierer's (Laura's) Claim Mr. Nowlin and Elift Jackson about 5 o'clock to make a trip to the Gros Ventre. We crossed up the east side of the Flat Creek Valley through the "Gap" and then across the Flat crossing. Flat Creek below McBride then up Dry Hollow. On the hills east of the valley were several bunches of elk aggregating a few hundred. Now had Loons. Only a few calves were left around the Bierer's. They were working northward along the front hills. From Dry Hollow we cut across the spur of the hill and descended to the valley of the Gros Ventre near Greenoughs Claim where there are a few acres in grain. Thence we followed a rough Trail up the south side of the Gros Ventre to Bierer's Claim where we stopped for the night. My aneroid set at 6200 feet for Jackson registered 6700 at Bierer's

May 21 To Simpson's Ranch on Crystal Creek We left Bierer's rather late and kept on up the south side of the valley. We kept close to the river to Redmond Creek and then ascended the hills, past a deep clear lake evidently, formed long ago by a land slip on the hill near the lake the Aneroid registered 7300 feet. About here were several small bands of elk. We kept along high up in the hills not far below the snow line far above Simpson's Place and descended to Crystal Creek which we crossed at the Simpson Ranch. Here we stopped for the night, although no one was at home. on the hills on both sides of Crystal Creek were several bands of elk. Aneroid registered 7100 feet at Simpson Ranch May 22 To Lafferty's Ranch There was quite a heavy frost in the night. We left the ranch about 7 o'clock and crossed the hills east of Crystal Creek. Saw many elk on the hills among which was a few calves of last year. At the highest point we reached near the present snow line the Aneroid registered 8700 feet. Five miles or more from the Simpson Ranch we crossed the slide, which we crossed about half way up. This slide started in the spring of 1909. We did not see its extreme upper end, but it is said to start in a narrow valley near the extremes Lead of Alkali Creek at the summit. It gradually increases in width and at the far where it dams the river in perhaps a half mile in width. It's 2 or 5 miles long. The bed of the Grouse Creek is dammed by the slide and a lake about 2 miles long is formed. At the dam, the river has cut away large portion of

the north bank, which is formed by a steep mountain side. Beyond the Slide we descended to the road which we followed except for an occasional cut-off across the hills to Lafferty's. Above the Slide when the valley is very narrow, the valley gradually widens out into sage-brush flats a few miles above Lure. Two or so Called Cottonwood Creeks come in on the North side. Above here the Cottonwood divides into Fish Creek and (two) enter Fish Creek being the larger. We reached Lafferty's in the late afternoon. Lafferty put up each year about 100 tons of hay. The Anemone registered 7775 feet which is close to the official figures as stated by Lafferty. Lafferty raises only its own hardy root crops. Potatoes do not ripen. May 23 To Robinson's Ranch We left Lafferty's early and went down to Lloyd's a mile and a half where we crossed on a fence. We kept on down on the North side We waded Cottonwood Creek about 11 o'clock and shortly after noon reached its forks, Cottonwood where we caught a good mess of fine Trout. Had some of them for dinner and after catching some more Trout went on to Robinson's Ranch where we stopped for the night. Robinson had just in about an acre of barley Mrs. Sheehan sometimes winter on the bluffs near the Robinson Ranch

May 24. To Bierer's Left Robinson's early and went on down the north side of the valley. A few miles below Rabuncois is the Collin Ranch 160 acres now the property of Pedersen who bought it for 500 dollars. This more abandoned virtually, pieces down and nothing being done yet. Below here we passed through a long stretch of sloping beaches grown up to many rank sage brush. The heard I have seen on the region. Some of the bushes are 8 feet high. Below here we found 2 elk, a Coy and a half, which had been killed by wolves within a few days. Below here we followed along the base of the Cliffs close to the Gros Ventre. This is a long stretch of very rough country. Here. Tracks of several MT Sheep were seen near the base of the cliffs. From which are marked for supper. Rode by the river. We looked over the cliffs with some care but over unable to see any sheep We had dinner at the mouth of Slate Creek, which empties into the Gros Ventre in a series of low falls. Slate Creek comes out of the hills through a Pine Lassen and from its valley a long pass connects with the valley of the Gros Ventre. Back of the Tough hills which border the Gros Ventre. From the mouth of Slate Creek when we reached we went on down and crossed the Gros Ventre by the Bridge at Turpini. This is near the Corner of Township 118. We then kept on down to Bierer's crossing the hills from Turpini by Redmond Creek. Saw a few elk and 3 male deer on the hills. Reached Bierer's between 5 and six o'clock. 17pm Bierer began just putting in oats Turpini planted oats about the 21st or 22nd

May 25. To Jackson Left Bierers quite early and took the trail down to southeast side of the Gros Ventre Saw tracks of a good many elk, which had been coming up from Dry Hallow and the adjacent hills and had crossed the Gros Ventre. We saw no elk while coming down Dry Hallow and at no moment that the bulk of those we saw on the way up have gone northward across and up the Gros Ventre. We reached Jackson in the middle of the afternoon [illegible] All Austin left me that he saw a young calf in the Hobock Valley, a day or two ago May 26 Jackson Snowy and sleeting in the night and morning and all the hills are white above 7000 feet and thin as some below that altitude May 27. Jackson The day was bad and it was impossible to do much May 28 Jackson Made observation on Migration along the creek below town and about the ramp May 29 Jackson More observation on birds along the creek Weather fine May 30. Jackson Weather fine, but very few birds along the creek bottom Probably they have all gone up the valley

May 31. To Zenith & Return We made a trip with team to Zenith near the junction of the Gros Ventre and Snake had an interview with Mr. Robert Wilson from whom I obtained some data regarding holdings in the Black Creek and Gros Ventre regions. Stopped also at O.F. Bikes near the same place. He told me that when he first came here about 17 years ago whitetail deer were numerous along Snake River near his place. They disappeared about 1897. The last having been killed by Coyote. We saw a few elk on the north Gros Ventre Butte, and Mr. J.W. Cypin told us that on May 26 he saw about a hundred. Some of these had crossed from E. Gros Ventre Butte a short time ago. With Gros Ventre is much higher and larger than the others, and is more suitable for a early summer habitat June 2. Jackson to Mth of Blue Rock We drove up from Jackson by the road on the east side of the valley. Roy McBride told us that there are about 10 wolves in the foothills near his place, and that they have killed several head of cattle lately. We had dinner at Wilson's and drove up past Meffis and both the road up the Buffalos Valley. We saw a number of elk in the meadows below Benchrock. Went on up to Rudolph Romerous where we found him at home. He tells me that 60 or 75 deer wintered about there, other in Spurley. About 150 bull elk wintered along the Buffalos above here. About 200 bison, 100 cows and 50 or 75 calves wintered in Bleatrock. He knows of only one calf during the winter. About 6 months watered. Thanks 2nd wrote to on Speed Creek

Approximately 40 mule deer counted on the hills opposite the ranger station. None were killed that the known of. Usually some of the calves are killed by coyote. Coyote usually common but seen so often near the winter Thickets come lined on the same Preserve. Marten killed on Spruce Creek but he does not know of any them live long gone on the Game Preserve. They go on to the Game Preserve in June and live mainly on the game. They seldom kill crows, there but follow the game up and back in the fall. They are near to this country. One Marten was killed within a mile of Chal Allen Ranch this spring, about the middle of April. Marten are fairly plentiful Races Marmots are increasing. About half a dozen were killed in the spring. They came lower down Bear now increased greatly - Have not been molested until early. Bear will exterminate the Beaver unless stopped. He also kills a good many elk. He has killed elk for meat (traced) in The country and has greatly decreased the number of Beavers during the last 3 years. Minks are fairly common along the Buffalos. They go higher up to breed and more down in the fall to the Morris county. Lynx are not very common. The Snowshoe rabbit is all about here but is not a common as formerly, being her killed by the coyote. Jack rabbit. Come up to Buffalos as far as Earls Place They on young Cinnamon corn and others helped them to marine and wheat. Muskat are fairly common

Sheep are found about the head of Buffalo. They winter about the head of the Shoshone, and the head of Crow River. A buffalo bull came down from the park and rotted on the Buffalo Plateau at the head of the South Fork of Buffalos in 1908-1909. The same time in October of 1909. More winter in the same place A bull elk killed for its tusk in the Hills near McBrates a week ago or so that had new horns about 5 inches long. (McBride) R.H. Ohl tells me that he saw a young calf with near the Buffalo near Evalls Place June 2.

June 3. To Jackson Lake via upper Bridge & Buffalo We left the Forest Ranger Cabin on the Buffalo and drove both across Bench Creek to the Buffalo Bridge and then up the Buffalo on the North side to the upper Bridge 12 miles above. We saw a few elk small % along the Buffalo on both sides Many had crossed the Buffalos into the Game Preserve. On the North side of Buffalo is a good road just as far as we went to the Upper Bridge then it crosses and continues on to Fort Washakie. At the crossing place on the north side in Jump Meadows a wet groovy meadow bordered by the usual sagebrush flats. After lunch on this path we turned back and drove to Allens Ranch near Moran when we stopped for the night. Saw an elk or two near Allens June 4. To Upper end Jackson Lake and Rhin to Moran We left Moran fairly early and drove up the east side of Jackson Lake between the country of Consorts of a succession of gravelly ridges and sagebrush flats. Partially clothed with pined growth lodgepole pine. A few elk seen in the pine openings. Sylvan Creek is crossed a few miles above Moran. Its lower part near either it enters the Lake is bordered by an extensive Yellow Swamp. Photographed Pear House near Allens Mr. Sheffields tells me that this creek falls west to cross many below its outlet but last fall cross through the lower end of the lake. They have sometimes crossed back over the same route in early summer. A bunch of Fox G. Antelope was seen on the flats near Crowfoot about June 1.[illegible]

June 5 To Jackson We left Moran and drove back down to Jackson. We saw lots of interest along the way, the eds all having left the Goddery hills.

6431