Diary of H. M. Van Deusen January 29, 1953 to November 17, 1953

Diary of H. M. Van Deusen Thursday, 29 January 1953 Inked in income tax blank. Dorothy called at 11 A.M. Left for N.Y.C. 11:30. Called for color pictures (for Australian friends). To Museum about 12:30 P.M. Len Brass had unpacked latest R Roberts collection--includes many study skins ! as well as flat kangaroo skins. A large native cat from the "Big Tableland" near Cooktown, Cape York is interesting. T. D. Carter and G.H.H.Tate drove down to Pier 60, foot of W. 20 St. with Dorothy, Katherine and myself. Geoff and I have cabin on starboard side, main deck, aft. Small but comfortable. People present: Katherine; Dorothy and Bill Kissam; Len and Marie Brass; Rus Peterson; Henry and Marilyn Fortner; Mrs. (mother of Henry's wife); H's wife's sister; Miriam Tate A very pleasant going-away party. Candy from Key; book from Len; trip book from Marie; candy from Don Carter. Ship supposed to sail at 5 P.M., then 8 P.M. Finally at 8:35. Colgate clock 8:53. Sky cleared and we saw moon coming out of total eclipse. The thrill of sailing never dulls. N.Y.C. and especially the statue of liberty very lovely as we dropped down the harbor. Geoff in a very mellow mood ! 12 passengers: 2 ladies; 1 English girl; 1 Scotch; 2 Australians-- Men: 1 Canadian, 1 American; 1 ?, 1?, Geoff and myself. (Friday 30 Jan 1953) Lat 27°26'N, Long 75°15'W. Dist 196 mi. Steaming time 12 hr. 40 min. Av. Sp 15.47 K. Wind N.W. 3. Sea smooth. Passed Winter Quarters lightship at about 10 A.M. Our course 215°(SW) 6 mi. off light, 25 miles off shore. Many gannets in area. 30 to 40 H. gulls following ship. At 11:15 A.M. 2 small whales on a N E course--parallel to ship (to starboard), blowing 3-4 times/minute for several (5) minutes; slow shallow roll (nothing like the arched roll of porpoises); color a brownish-black with almost a lavender tinge (not a blue tone). Roll almost completed before dorsal fin appeared. Not large. Longer than broad in ratio of about 2:1, angle of rake 35°- 40°. Shape of blow spray not well defined (no wind) but blow started before blow hole clear of water. Low and rounded. Size difficult to judge, but certainly in neighborhood of 40'. No gannets at 11:30; however, g. off and on for rest of day. Docked at Newport News, Va. at 6 P.M. Cut path of the Cape Charles--Cape Henry Ferry. Bonapartes Gulls, Kittiwakes, gannets, 10-12 large flocks of red-breasted Mergensers flying NW over Roads; Gr Black, B. gulls. Passed very narrow opening in harbor protective net. Aircraft carrier "Coral Sea" at dock. Liverpool Rover, Toulon, Rysinga Maru passed us in Roads. Beautiful sunset of dull flame orange segmented by low dark clouds. Went uptown. Sent off postcards to K, mother, Dot, and Dory. Walked as far as N.N. Shipbuilding and Dry Dock Co. Watched basketball game in recreation hall. The "United States" built at N.N. Ship loading special paper for shells. Much leaf tobacco in wooden drums on wharf. Supposed to sail at 1 AM but didn't.

Saturday 31 January 1953 Lat 36°13'N. Long 75°28'W. Distance 53 mi. Steaming time 3 hr 30 min. Av. sp 15.14 K. Wind S.E. 2. Sea slight. Sailed 6:30 A.M. Dull day, rain spits. Many Bonapartes gulls & a few gannets out near pilot ship. Also a school of 30-50 porpoises. Rain squalls for rest of day. Running down to Cape Hatteras on course 170° Passed Hatteras light about 5:00 P.M. New course 217° Scattered gannets. Wrote to Hermano Daniel. Slept most of afternoon. A few more days & I will be completely relaxed. I only wish that I had insisted that K sail with me. We have several sick passengers today. Blowing up a bit but not too much motion. Food has been good but too much of it. Milk twice a day (not at night). Geoff and I are starting to ease up on meals. One of the engineers (used to work for Chrysler)--Hungarian--talked with me for an hour about communism, American factories & Papuan natives (he had pictures from Port Moresby). Studied report on Shaw Meyer's mammal collecting in N.G. Also read Cape York report. Capt. Peder Eriksen Chief mate Harlan L. Wadleigh 2nd mate James M. Walsh, Jr. Donald J. Penniail James E. Peifer Sunday 1 February 1953 Course 217° Clear beautiful day. Horizon clear to W., N, & N.E. Strato-cumulus to E, S, & S.W. A few rain squalls in sight to S.E. We are in the Gulf Stream-- patches of weed in sight. Air soft and warm. Sprinkling of white caps. Wind out of the W. A few herring gulls with ship (6-8 2nd yr; 2-3 ad). First Jaeger in sight close to ship 9:15 A.M. Followed for a few minutes, rested on water several times (with us 1/2 hr)--white streakings at base of inner l°s, wh. underpts, wh up sides of neck, black on median neck line, size 15-16"; low over waves. Very difficult to get distrib. of wh areas. No ships in sight all morning. (11 A.M. 3/M, 1 ad H. gulls). No gannets today. First flying fish at noon. (7/1 m. 1 ad. H.G.) More Jaegers in sight just at dusk soaring over ship. Wrote letters & then talked about ships, shipping & oil companies with one of the engineers until 2:30 A.M. Also looked at Koda- chromes of Brisbane & other Australian cities taken by one of radiomen; good pictures of Koalas at Lone Pine Park. 4 - 8 P.M. watch: Bill Rogerson "About 5 P.M. Florida will be 185 mi. W of ship. It may be as late as noon tomorrow when Fla. is sighted. Jupiter light (200 mi S of Jacksonville)"--per Mr. Peifer Monday 2 February 1953 Overcast. Florida in sight at 6:30 A.M. (at least). Laughing gull added to our list of ship followers; became more numerous as we closed on coast. We are running well in (less than a mile at times). 74° at 12:30. Six or more Jaegers joined

[illegible]

us for a couple of hours, soaring overhead, low over waves and occasionally resting on water. Much variation in plumage: some with much motting on rump and all the way up back; some white underneath; some dark; some with dark of head completely isolated by buffy neck and nape feathers. None with really well developed central tail feathers (most 1/4 or 1/3 total length); some with splatches of white in 2° s. About or slightly smaller than Laughing Gulls. Blowing out of the SE. Passing Miami at 1:00 P.M. Passed West Palm Beach at about 9:00 A.M. Many fishing boats off shore. About 1 gannet per hour. Now only about 45 miles from Bimini. Wonder how Van Voast is doing on his Bahama exp? Saw what appeared to be a large tern—confirmed; 2 more (Caspian or Royal)— could not see 1's well—sliced by ship—blowing hard. Off Key West at 7:00 P.M. Course 235°. My first time in the Gulf. Watch says we will be too early for Mardi Gras. Venus very bright. Still passing Keys at 11:00 P.M. Man on watch from Boston. Makes ship models. Lat. 26° 10'N Steaming time 25 hrs total time: Long 80° 04'W Av sp 14.56 K 2 days 04 hr. 30 Min. Course—various Wind SE 3 New Orleans 646 mi. Dist 364 miles Sea SE slight Newport News 725 mi. Tuesday 3 February 1953 Course 302° Bright, clear, nearly cloudless day. We are in the Gulf of Mexico— water blue plus patches of Gulf Stream weed. Air is soft but there is still a touch of northern winter in the breeze. Calm sea, only an occasional whitecap. We have a morning escort of at least 10 Jaegers, patiently following. Capt. Eriksen says we will be steaming up the Mississippi tomorrow A.M. about 100 miles up to New Orleans. Walked up to the bow about 10:00 A.M. A dolphin (?) came in from dead ahead and swam under our bow for about a minute; 3 others joined it. Nose pointed, blow hole round, color—pale liver brown above, small flukes. Small Portuguese Men-of-War floating by, usually small fish associated with their streamers, (saw them just before bow wave hit). 5 minute count—19 in a 150' front, from bow. Glimpse of a shark as he rolled his white belly near surface. Count of Jaegers up to 18. 2 or 3 Herring Gulls at 1:30 P.M. Breeze dying, sea smooth, mackerel sky. Jaegers left in early P.M.; 2 or 3 gannets. Wednesday 4 February 1953 Off entrance to Mississippi River soon after dawn. Brown Pelicans, also 3 or 4 gannets flying past. Comorants (D. Cr. or Mex.?); Loon; Ring-billed Gulls; R. or C. Term; small terns; sea ducks; shore birds (all too distant). Soon after passing channel entrance saw white Pelicans sitting on drift logs and swimming in little bays either side of channel. Flock of 200 and Black Skimmers; Snow Geese; Blue Geese; Pintails; Mallards; Egrets; Great Blue Herons; Swallows; even 1 Duck Hawk sitting on channel light; Crows and Boat-tailed Grackles. Fewer birds as we passed inland. Passed oil rigs from time to time. Few ships. Feels very strange to be cruising up muddy Mississippi at full speed on board ocean going freighter. 2nd pilot came on board about 5 miles upstream. Levees line river— many homes below level of river. Napped in P.M. Approached New Orleans at sunset. Wharves line winding river on both sides. Great variety of ships and funnels. We docked at Celeste Street Wharf. Geoff and I walked up to Canal St.(main street in New Orleans—starts at river and runs NW)—about 1½ miles. Wonderful docking and railroad facilities. Geoff returned to ship. I looked in book stores until 11:00 P.M. and then walked into Old New Orleans, the Latin Quarter—Rue Royal. Many high class antique stores. Crossed over to Bourbon St—white way with many bars with song and dance acts. Back to ship about 1:30 A.M. Geoff and I saw

[illegible]

C. Chaplan in "Lime light". Wonderful. Laughed until I cried, at one sequence with C.C. and Buster Keaton. Thursday 5 February 1953 In port--loading machinery (including a weed-burner) and tractors for Australia. Geoff and I went to town in A.M. to do errands. Made reservation for 4 at Antoine's. Lunch on board. To town in P.M. to take pictures and visit antique shops. Saw opal bracelet for $4,500. All items expensive. Visited Presbytere where they have small museum of N.H. including a habitat group of Louisiana Black Bears. Early work of Bailey who is now at Denver Museum of N.H. I met a Mrs. Fairman who is artist at museum. It was closing time (4:30) so she walked me over to Plantation Book Store and introduced me to Mr. and Mrs. Leisure (they know Col. Deas of Charleston). After browsing for a while I talked with them and was introduced to a Mrs. Anne Shelley--turned out that she lives in Medellín ! Tells me that Fagans have been transferred (where?). Knew many of our friends. Flying back soon. Met Geoff, Alice Dickinson and "Midge" Colquhoun at Antoine's Restaurant at 6:00 P.M. A most wonderful dinner ($36 for 4) on the Exp. Oysters a la Rockefeller, shrimp, baked Pompano (in paper bag with sauce), Cherry Jubilee, Chablis wine and Anisette. Almost 3 hrs at table. Met Jim (chief mate) at Hotel Roosevelt. Danced until 1:30 A.M. Good music. Feet tired. Friday 6 February 1953 To New Orleans about 10:30 A.M. Wrote postcards until noon. Lunch--crab cake, milkshake and orange juice. Walked down Royal St. looking in antique shops. Bought some very good macaroons and candied ginger. Went to Plantation Book Shop where I picked up 2 more books for the trip (H. Ward--"C. Darwin"; Maury--"Phy. Geog. of Sea"); also 8 other books which I had sent home. Made me a present of "Cross Creek" by M. K. Rawlings. Book on Ostrich farming in So. Africa (with chap. on meerkats); another on the Raptors of Gr. Britain and Ireland by Jardine. Mrs. Leisure also threw in a libretto of "Martha" as "Lagnape" (?) for Dory. (The French for "something extra"--the idea of the "Baker's Dozen"). Saturday 7 February 1953 Course 288° at 2:00 P.M. Running west to the Texas gulf port of Beaumont. Blanket overcast with occasional misty squall closing in. 20 odd gulls following. Took M. F. Maury out to read--"The Physical Geography of the Sea". It is fascinating to read of this work that was organized by Maury more than 100 years ago. And this morning Capt. Erikson says offhandedly that "Oh, we know all about ocean currents now." Here is a man with no scientific curiosity. Maury says "I am wedded to no theories, and do not advocate the doctrines of any particular school. Truth is my object." His opening sentence "There is a river in the ocean-- and then follows a wonderful chapter on the Gulf Stream. "The Gulf of Mexico is its fountain". How interesting that I find this book, that I am in the Gulf of Mexico and that the new issue of "Life" contains the article on the sea. Course 6:00 P.M. 266° Picked up pilot off Port Arthur breakwater about 7:30 P.M. Passed town of Port Arthur at 9:30. Fractionating columns with their Christmas tree lights are scattered all over the landscape. Oil fumes strong. A clear red sunset after a blue sky afternoon. One freighter silhouetted against red sky with a wisp of gulls trailing off astern. Laughing Gulls joined ship. 1 Caspian or Royal Tern passed. 60 odd gulls at one time.

[illegible]

Lat 28° 55'N; Long 91° 51' W. Dist 133 mi. St. T. 8 hrs 25 min; Av Sp 15.79 K Wind NW 2. Sea slight-N Sunday 8 February 1953 In Beaumont. Docked at 12:30 A.M. A narrow squeeze between a Lykes freighter and a lighter. Pilot, Avice, Midge and I were invited to Captain's quarters for a sherry. Capt Erikson has furnished his sitting room very tastefully: sectional couch, tooled leather (Lima, Peru) coffee table and curtains. Unmarried, makes ship his home. Talked in Jim's cabin (chief mate) until 2:00 A.M. Ship's heat turned on--cabin was hot as an oven. Felt like a baked Pompano this A.M. Drank a qt of milk and glasses of fruit juice. Walked to town (½ Mile) (Phoned Kay at 10:00 A.M. No answer; found her in at 4:00 P.M. She had Mother with her - dinner at M.G.C. Good connection) Had a good orange juice. Sat in sun with gang from ship. Went back for more orange juice & wrote a few post cards. To ship for lunch. Wrote to Mr. Milne about investing pesos in Cia Col de Tab. Up town to mail letters & phone Key. Met Chief Engineer & we had an orange juice. To ship for dinner. Bow-on picture of S.S. P. Glen. Midge, Avice and I walked over to Norwegian freighter "Tasco" (all ships' names start with "T")-- run between Mexico, gulf ports & Norway. Knocked on captain's door & he very graciously showed us about ship: 12 passengers; quarters much more comfortable than ours & tastefully decorated; but officers eat and live separately from passengers. Ship immaculate. We are due to sail for Houston at 8:00 P.M. Oil smell pervades ship and town. Loaded 2355 drums of lubricating oil for Free mantle. Monday 9 February 1953 8:15 A.M. Course 317° N.W. Running along coast from Beaumont to Houston. In narrow dredged channel, miles of shallow water on all sides, in sight of land. Many Laughing Gulls--nearly all with dark breeding season heads; a few H. Gulls; 1 Cormorant. An occasional oil-well rig in water. 8:45 A.M. Course 330° Meeting outgoing tankers, passing very close ! (at full speed) one fishing smack cut across bows and we had to reduce speed--the bridge was mad. Just passed sand bar with 200+ white pelicans, 15-20 brown. Get into air very easily. 10:00 A.M. Passing old battleship "Texas" and San Jacinto monument. Approaching Shell refinery--smells like a burned breakfast. Another 100 + white pelicans on a bar. Pintails and other ducks in air. Tuesday 10 February 1953 In Houston Wednesday 11 February 1953 At Houston Thursday 12 February 1953 At Houston. Clear and cold. Finished loading. Uptown to visit Zoo and Natural History Museum. Primate house is a beauty. I arrived at 9:30 but one of keepers let me in and showed me around. Good assortment of baboons; 2 good chimps. Automatic heat control--natural gas. Air conditioning in summer. Bonnet monkey impressive. Zoo in large park area to West of Houston (Herman Park, 15 min. by bus from center). Good seal pool. Several bird inclosures with cypress trees (and knees). Park is in pine. Robins in large flocks. N.H.Museum is old one level building filled with junk.

[illegible]

Thursday 12 February 1955 (cont) Few eye-level habitat groups with colored photograph backgrounds--poor. Gift shop manned by Jr. Leaguers. Teacher, Mr. Smith, young and enthusiastic. Director: Mr. Vans (sp?) told of plans for new $1,000,000 museum in different location. Also Botanical garden and aquarium. Spring is just touching the Gulf cost. Back to ship by bus--just in time--10 min. tp spare. Sailed 12:00 M. Down Houston Ship Channel in 2 hours. Texas City at 4:15. Galveston entrance at 5:00 P.M. Well out at 6:00 P.M. Course 128° Bound for Canal Zone. A beautiful clear day. Chilly. Wind from North. Saw 2 groups of white pelicans--500-600 all told. Also a flock of skimmers. Laughing gulls along channel. Only a few ring-bills and H. gulls. 1 dark 10 term (large) bill not red yet. Many ducks in every shallow, also great blue herons and American egrets. Friday 13 February 1955 8:30 A.M. Course 128° Densely packed stratocumulus. East wind kicking over a few whitecaps. Rather cold. At least 2 dozen H. gulls following; 2+ Jaegers (one sooty wh. & other dark underpts). No ships in sight. Dry bulb temp 62° F, wet 55°. A lonely course. Have seen no ships today. At 5:30 there were at least 10 (possibly 12 or more) Jaegers following ship; at noon there were only 3. They often rest on water, preen and then overtake ship. Noon today (sun time on ship) was at 12:18 P.M. Course at 6:30 127° . Wind falling. Very little motion to ship today. Lat 25° 58'N; Lg 90° 58'W. Course 136° T. Dist by obs. 281 mi. Steaming time 18 hr 45 min. Av sp 14.98 K. Wind NE 3. Sea NE slight. To Cristobal 1214 mi Houston 281 mi. Sky cleared and sun out strong about 2 to 3:00 P.M. Fire drill in P.M. Captain's inspection this A.M. Herring gull with oil streak on underparts following us most of P.M. Don't know when Jaegers joined us. Slop chest open tonight for crew and passengers. Food continues good. Milk at breakfast and lunch. Salt mackerel gave me a real thirst today. Sleeping very well. Napped this A.M. Almost in center of Gulf tomorrow. Off Yucatan soon. Pass fairly close. Saturday 14 February 1955 Course 130° Clear. Horizon clouds. Wet bulb 73°F. Dry 77°F. No motion. 8 A.M. No birds. 11:30 A.M. Wind strong from south. Pitching slightly. Blue-hulled schooner crossing our wake on an easterly course. No birds. Puffy cumulus clouds overhead. 12:00 M. 2 Jaegers in sight, 1 very dark, 1 light underpts. Course changed to 136° Just 30 mi off the coast of Yucatan. A hot sun all afternoon but the strong breeze made it very pleasant. Had my shirt off for a half hour. Most of the passengers were sun bathing. Have started to slow up on eating. Food continues very good. Soon after sunset we passed a United Fruit passenger ship on a north- bound course, probably for New Orleans. Wind dying down. Read until about midnight. Talk is that we will not reach Panama until Tues. A.M. Lat 22° 00'N. Long 86° 33'W. Course 134° T. Dist by obs. 341 St. time 24 hrs Av Sp 14.21 K. Wind SE 4, Sea SE slg. T.T. 1 d 18 h 45 m. Cristobal 875, Houston 622,

[illegible]

Sunday 15 February 1953 Course 138° Flat sea. Little breeze. No white caps. A quiet morning. Geoff and I are reading on the flying bridge. Sun not high enough to drive us down. 11:00 A.M. Have been timing flying fish. 1 out of water 22 seconds by count. Another paralleled course of ship for 5 sec and held even . dist traveled = 557 feet (using 15 knots as speed of ship). The 22 sec fish was 10-12" long. Have been reading Henshaw Ward's "Charles Darwin" this A.M. It is giving me a better insight into his work and the stage of scientific thought early in the 19th century than any book I have ever read. Temp 11:45 A.M. 73°F wet; 81° dry. Ship's noon 11:45 A.M. Lat 17° 55'N Long 82° 53'W Course 140°T. Dist 321 mi. St. time 24 hrs. Av Sp 13.37 K. Wind SE 3mi, Sea SE slight. Total time 2 d 18 hr 45 min. To Cristobal 552, Houston 943 mi. 3:00 P.M. Course 144° —145° Gannet flew over ship(easterly) black 1's and 2's. Wrote letters. Studied stars. Moon a thin crescent; set about 7:30. Venus has been very bright & makes a light path on sea. The north star is sinking and Orion is almost overhead. Monday 16 February 1953 Course 172° Should be in neighborhood of Colombian islands of San Andres and Providence this morning. Changed course during night and we are rolling a bit this A.M. Moderate breeze. Few puffy cumulus clouds on horizon. No birds. Temp 9:00 A.M. Wet 76° Dry 81° We will not pass within sight of islands— 50 to 60 mi off. 9:50 A.M. First Man-of-War bird over ship—soaring away to West. Lat 13° 06'N; long 80° 27'W. Dist by obs 328 mi. St. time 24 hrs; Av SP 13.66 K. Wind E 3; sea E slight. T.T. 3 d 18 hr 45 min. To Cristobal 224; Houston 1271 mi, Tuesday 17 February 1953 Panama in sight at 6:00A.M. Fruit boat and Spanish freighter ahead of us. Mountains shrouded in clouds. A hazy sunrise. Coming in thru narrow breakwater passage about 7:15 A.M. A dozen ships at anchor—saw first ships flying the "Red Duster" (British merchant flag). We had no birds following as we neared port. One Jaeger outside; many laughing gulls inside; 2 or 3 jaegers; frigate birds; vultures, caspian tern. Tied up at very modern oil and coal wharf. Town only 200 yds away by water but 3 miles by land ! Mail came aboard. Went birding ashore: catbird; med sized flycatchers (gray & yellow); small, white line over eye, grey throat, yellow underpts; hummingbird —green highlights over head back & wings, mixed with brownish, long decurved bill (2 x s head); Med size dove (soft pinkish brown); reddish bird like cardinal; small dark bird—poor look at last birds. Found small mud flat with small sandpipers, red dragonflies & grey and yellow flycatchers. Boat-tailed grockles on wharf. Little blue heron on rocks. Spotted sandpiper—waterfront of Colon. A line of leaf-cutting ants walking along railroad track. Black termite nests in a few trees. Talked with gateman (Mr. Coleman) for a few minutes (a conservationist at heart—feeds birds)(WROTE KAY ANOTHER LETTER - HAVE 14 LETTERS TO MAIL!) Geoff and I taxied to town at 2:30 to Post Office. Today is last day of 4 fiesta days. Geoff walked home. I followed one group of singers, dancers, maracas &

Tuesday 17 February 1953 (cont) native drum players for ½ mile. Keep wonderful rhythm. All rigged in home-made costumes. Trucks full of costumed children seeing the sights. Walked along shore drive with Trades blowing in from bay. A lovely cool spot with lawn and rows of Royal palms. Lawn full of crab holes. One path in grass 1 inch or so wide worn to bare earth by passage of leaf-cutting ants. Many were carrying blades of grass. One ant traveled 16 feet in 5 min. along path. You can see these runs in grass at quite a distance. Street parades keep up until after dark. Had supper at Y.M.C.A. with some of crew. Played ping-pong. Walked the streets for a while. No stores open on Front street. Only the clip-joints and bars open. Everyone very well behaved. Our ship's cook is a Panamanian. All shades of color. Back to ship with electrician about midnight. Dist 46 mi. St. T net 6 hr 43 min. Av sp 5.04 K. At anchor 9 h. 7 m. Wednesday 18 February 1953 Transiting the Panama Canal (Atlantic to Pacific) Tug showed up at 7:00 by mistake. At 7:30 A.M. running around making sure crew is aboard. Sailed at 8:00 A.M. First line aboard— 3 step Gatun Lock 8:45 Direction 189°. #1 step—start filling 8:59; finished 9:05. #2 step—start 9:15; finish 9:21. #3—start 9:30; finish 9:59—at level of Gatun Lake. Cast off 9:44. Then to our surprise we swung around to anchor(at 10:05) in Gatun Lake. Something to do with lock cleaning at Pacific side of canal. Captain ordered ladder over side for swimming. First in—water near 80° and fresh and clear. Swam until lunch time with crew and Geoff and Avice. While we were in, the "Reina del Pacifico" came east —a beautiful passenger ship(from Australia). Bearing in Pedro Miguel lock 135°—Miraflores locks 137° Left Balboa 11:00 PM. Canal pilot: Capt. White. Sailed from Gatun anchorage at 5:00 P.M. Delicate colors in sunset. Light until we passed Gamboa. Laughing gulls following ship; at twilight flew west, fast, low and in groups. 1 night hawk, lbrown pelican, black and turkey vultures, 1 caspian ? tern. Air soft and filled with wonderful fragrance (night oleander?). Passed Barro Colorado while light—jungle looks very tempting. No life visible from ship. Culebra Cut very impressive looming on both sides. Passed only 3 ships. Still dredging east of Cut. First Quarter moon gave good light. Courses from anchorage: 180°; 72°; 127°;(past B. Colorado); 168° ; 102° 55°; 99° , 90° (due east);180° is south Thursday 19 February 1953 8:30 Booby—upper wings and body all brown; white underpts; whitish around bill 50+Laughing gulls following, none with dark head. Also at least 7 Jaegers. Just leaving headlands of Gulf of Panama behind. Looks very mountainous. Course 240°. 10 A.M. Have been in bow for ½ hr—2 small, long-winged birds (petrels?) dingy brownish—black all over. No sign of white; wing-flipping and darting like small night hawk; close over waves. Another: seemed to have black and white markings on head. Both species too distant.

[illegible]

Thursday 19 February 1953 (cont) Met 1 freighter bound in to canal — "Condesa"—London—white maltese cross and red band. Strong following wind. Clear, some cirrus in sky. Boat and fire drill at 10:20. Napped after lunch from 1:30 to 4:00. No ship motion. Lat 6°22'N; Long 81°2'W. Dist 201 mi. St. Time 12 hr 35 min. Av Sp 15.96 K. Wind N 4; Sea N moderate. Light airs and slight sea in P.M. To Brisbane 7504 mi; to Balboa 201 mi. 6:15 P.M. Ran through school of 150-200 small tuna. A great whirl of Gannets (Boobies?), Frigate birds, shearwaters, petrels feeding in same area. At least 3 or 4 different kinds petrels (large bl and wh; med and small bl & wh, small dark). Only 2 laughing gulls left; had disappeared by 7:00. Ice cream for dinner. Slop chest open. Bought package of life savers for N.G. Talked with various crew. All have read articles on natural history and have some interest but all have a stock of misinformation. Friday 20 February 1953 Course 236° Clear, some altocumulus, low cumulus, and later in A.M. a rain squall or two. See glassy with an occasional moderate swell & a few wind paws. Just before breakfast 7:50 a giant ray or manta swam by our starboard side 15' off; could see tips of flippers breaking water & shape as he went by. Passed large school of tuna jumping 2-3 times length. 30 + boobies & shearwaters & small bl & wh petrels. Boobies seem immature—pale blue bill (1 dark brown, pale bill, yell.? legs). Another school of tuna at 10:00. Also small turtle resting at surface. The tuna are quite spectacular leaping; some do barrel rolls in mid-air. Various small petrels at distance. 2 had white rumps (shape?) Lat 05°15'N; Long 87°16'W. Course 242°T. Dist by obs. 402 St. Time 25 hrs. Av Sp 16.08K. Wind var. 2-3 Sea slight N. Total time 1-13-35 To Brisbane 7102 mi. From Balboa 603. Saturday 21 February 1953 Lat 00°14'N; Long 92°35'W. Course 240°T. Dist 367 mi. St. Time 25 hrs. Av SP 14.68 K. Wind N 2 Sea smooth,Total t. 2 d 14 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 6735; from Balboa 970 mi. Today we crossed the equator at 1:55 P.M. At 7:30 A.M. we passed a few miles north of Isabella Island of the Galápagos Arch. Height over 5000' so in sight most of A.M.—table top shape. No detail. Birds were in sight all day today; also tuna shhools and a few porpoises and small whales. Sea flat with a swell now and then. Storm petrels (1 every 2-3 min) all about ship—white rump triangular. Shearwater type not common (4-5 per hour)—black above, wh below— no good observations. One frigate bird in P.M. Several whirls of boobies (up to 85 mi from ship). Not many bl & wh (ratio about 1-5). Bl & wh—1° & 2° s black. Most of brown indiv. had blue bills. Most at long dist from ship. Small petrels (few I could see) had Δ white rumps; tails square or slightly forked. One whale leaped ½ to 2/3s out of water. Some tuna making tremendous leaps. Isabella—Albemarle Island Geoff & chief mate had small cocktail party in P.M. Dancing on bridge deck aft from 7 to 10. Ship fairly stable. All passengers & a few officers. Read and slept in afternoon.

Sunday 22 February 1953 Lat 2°38'S; Long 97°47'W. Course 241°T. Dist 560 mi. St. time 24 hrs Av sp 15.00 K. Wind var 1-2. Sea smooth--gentle swells S. T.Time 3 d 14 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 6375 mi; Balboa 1330. A very quiet day at sea. A few storm petrels (5-6); 2 large petrels (shearwaters?). No boobies. 2 schools of tuna. One whale close off starboard side--seen from porthole--small(30'). Captain invited me to have an aquavit with him in his cabin at 4:30. He showed me newspaper articles about himself in Christian Science Monitor & Australian papers. Once had own plane. Loves flowers (has flower paintings all over ship). He can hypnotize people. Uses this for minor surgery aboard ship. May give demonstration before end of trip. Showed me a press photo of one subject with needle in cheek! No blood! Has sisters in Denmark. Plans to retire in 2 or 3 years. Has a wonderful hammock he sleeps in.(GEOFF DRINKING WITH FRIENDS. UNTIL 4 OR 5 AM. FELL ON FACE - (BAD CUTS ON BRIDGE OF NOSE, CUT ON UPPER LIP, BRUISES ON FACE. NOTHING BROKEN). Monday 23 February 1953 Lat 5°24'S; Long 105°23'W. Course 244°T. Dist 376 mi. ST.time 24 hr. Av Sp 15.67 K. Wind SE 4. Sea slight SE, Swells. Tot. T. 4 d 14 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 5999; Balboa 1706 Another quiet day broken only by light rain squalls. One storm petrel. At -- 3 long-winged, long-tailed, slight birds approached ship but turned and paralleled ship for a few minutes about ¼ mile off. Tail appeared to be deeply forked. Flew lightly with wing beat hesitation of terms but did not seem quite right. Not tropic birds--did not have strong purposeful flight. Read "Tales of South Pacific" a second time. Just as engrossing as first time. Also reading book by John Caldwell "Desperate Voyage". He was in crew under Capt Eriksen during war. Sailed 29' cutter alone to Figi Islands. Met a Porto Rican member of crew this A.M. Hobby is fishing--showed me all his gear. Clocks retarded one hour tonight. Tuesday 24 February 1953 Lat 8°14'S; Long 109°02'W. Course 243°T. Dist 379 mi. St. Time 25 hrs. Av sp 15.16 K. Wind SE 3-4 Sea S slight. T. Time 5 d 15 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 5620 mi; from Balboa 2085. Bright sunny day with gentle SE Trade winds. Little motion to ship. Read and slept most of day. 2 petrels in A.M. Black (splotchy) above; wh below and on under wing coverts. Too far off for details. Medium size 10-12". Wednesday 25 February 1953 Temp. Wet 74° Dry 80° F. Clear, sunny. No rain squalls. At 11:15 A.M. a tropic bird over stern of ship. Did not remain long enough for me to observe tail feathers. Distance from nearest land: Island--Ducie and Easter--1020 mi. 100-200 miles further to Galapagos and Tuamotu Group. Same or another bird in P.M. (3:00) followed ship for about 1 hour, far off-- could not see central tail feathers (possibly not present).

Wednesday 25 February 1953 (cont) Lat 11°04'S ; Long 114°27'W. Course 242° T. Dist 365 mi. St. T. 24 hr. Av sp 15.21 K. Wind SE 3-4 Sea SE slight. T.T. 6 d 15 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 5255 mi; from Balboa 2450. Moon almost full. No sunset color. Am learning a few of navigating stars each night. Whole schools of flying fish breaking water today. Read most of day. Keeping out of sun. Have a short talk with captain each day. Found a crew member today who visits museums and zoos. Most people know of Museum or have visited it within recent years. (GEOFF & I DECIDED TODAY THAT IF WE GO TO AUSTRALIA IN FUTURE WE WILL TAKE KAY & MIRIAM WITH US AS FAR AS PRACTICAL. LOCAL HOSPITALITY WILL TAKE CARE OF THEM WHILE WE ARE OFF FOR A FEW WEEKS AT A TIME.) Thursday 26 February 1953 Temp. Wet 76° Dry 90°F. Hot and sultry. Following wind about same speed as ship. Engine room blowing stacks in A.M. Soot all over flying bridge. Poor sunset. Talked with crew on forward well deck for a couple of hours. Then with 2nd electrician for a few hours until midnight. Then on bridge with 3rd mate until 3 A.M. A beautiful moon--last night, soft air. Lat 13°40'S; Long 120° 00'W. Course 245°T. Dist 363 mi. St. T. 24 hr. Av sp 15.12 K. Wind E 4 Sea E slight T.T. 7 d 15 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 4892; from Balboa 2813 mi. Friday 27 February 1953 Overcast but bright. Squall off starboard bow at 8 A.M. Bird which may have been a fairy tern flew across rain front. Low over water. May have been tropic bird but did not investigate ship. Lean towards trop. bird. Lat 16°12'S ; Long 126°00'W; course 247°T. Dist 382 mi. St.T 25 hrs; Av sp 15.28 K. Wind E 3; Sea E slight; T.T. 8 d 16 hr 35 min. To Brisbane4510 mi; from Balboa 3195 mi. Temp 78° wet; 85° dry. Read most of afternoon in deck chair, port side boat deck forward--cool. A lovely rose sunset. Nearly full moon rising in ship's track; clouds above it touched with sunset. Many cumulus on western rim outlined by color. To bed at 10:00 P.M. Saturday 28 February 1953 9:10 A.M. Course 250° T. Booby flying around ship. Black wing tips & bl 2°s. Bill pinkish (dull). In ship's track for a few minutes. We are now within a few hundred miles of the Tuamotu Arch. Tomorrow there should be many birds, although we will not sight the islands to the north. Rain squall at 11:15. 1:15 P.M. Blue-faced booby flying around ship. Bill yellow; could not see color of feet. Lat (d.r.) 18°22'S ; Long (d.r.)131°54'W; course 249°T. Dist 364 mi. St.T 24 hr. Av sp 15.16 K Wind ENE 3 Sea ENE slight T.T. 9 d 16 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 4146 mi; from Balboa 3559 mi. A beautiful sunny, blue afternoon. Read & slept in deck chair. Steward gave me 2 doz oranges for orangeade tonight(for "our gang" who like fruit juice without a spike). Full moon up at sunset. Sunset showed promise but the cumulus was too thick. Squall at 8:30.

[illegible]

Saturday 28 February 1953 (cont) Will pass small uninhabited island tomorrow "Vanavana" on our port; Austral Island (Tubuai) Chief mate treated us to Tasmanian cider. Slept on flying bridge until 1:00 A.M. Captain made unexpected tour of bridge after midnight. Sunday 1 March 1953 An almost glassy smooth day with confused swells rolling the ship. The wind of our motion gives a pleasant breeze. On deck at 6:30 A.M. Lat 20°14'S; Long 138°06'W; course 252°T. Dist 370 mi. St.T 25 hr. Av sp 14.80 K Wind-light airs; Sea smooth T.T. 10 d 17 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 3776; from Balboa 3929 mi. 2 whales sighted soon after 12 noon. One passed to port, blowing (short round spout). Little exposure. 2nd on same course as ship—sounded as we overtook. All we could see were rolls on surface. My guess is that neither whale would reach 40'. 2 tropic birds in sight about 1:30 (tail color?). At 4:32 P.M. we passed Vanavana Island to port 3-4 miles. Lush vegetation, coconut palms. Greatest elev. 15 feet. Our first landfall since Albemarle in the Galápagos. 7 white terms (?)—prob. trop. birds—fishing about 1 mile to port as we approached island. Vanavana is a S.E. outpost of the Tuamotu group. Occasionally visited by natives. Undistinguished sunset but pink streamers rayed out for a few minutes. Moon again beautiful. Read & slept most of P.M. Steak & ice cream for dinner. Captain invited Geoff & me for cocktails. Sun is very strong. Even the glare burns my face. Monday 2 March 1953 On deck at 6:30 A.M. Calm sea. Swells still rolling ship. Cool breeze. Studied "N.G. Rodents" until breakfast at 7:30. Spent A.M. in shade reading. One tropic bird sighted—did not come in close. Squalls about all day. Never last more than a few minutes. Studied in P.M. & took nap until dinner. Geoff told me George Tate's life history and we talked over future of Archbold Expeditions and the Mammal Dept. Poor sunset. Cool on deck. Lat 22°04'S; Long 144°04'W. Course 252°T. Dist 354 St.T. 24 hr. Av sp 14.75 K. Wind N 2. Sea smooth. T.T. 11 d 17 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 3422; Balboa 4283 mi. Tuesday 3 March 1953 On deck at 6:15 A.M. Tubuai Island in sight. Bearing 270° at 6:30 A.M. Lat 23°23'S; Long 143°26'W. 5 miles long (E & W) 3 mi wide. Well wooded. Mt. Taita 1309' E. end; Tonarutu 1024' (SW end). Sailing directions (Vol II 1940) pop 500. Barrier reef, partly submerged, surround island. The Austral Islands are a scattered group of 5 islands—fringing coral reefs. 335 mi due south of Tahiti. 7 peaks at west end of island. Some remind me of the Glasshouse Mts. near Brisbane with their fantastic shapes. Some good duck hawk cliffs.

[illegible]

Tuesday 3 March 1953 (cont) Lat 25°35'S; Long 150°23'W; course various; Dist 364 St.T. 24 hr Av sp 15.16 K Wind var 1-2 Sea--low swells S T.T. 12d 17 hr 35 Min. Brisbane 3088; Balboa 4647 2:15 P.M. 6 tropic birds (wh. T. ?) 11:15 A.M. Wh. bellied, dark headed & upper parts Petrel (med to large).. Off Tubuai: 2 tropic birds; 3 long winged & tailed birds, slow graceful flyers-- could be Frigate birds--low over water part of time--some sailing (not terms). Several large flying fish broke off bow (10-12") brilliant deep blue, whitish wings. 2:45 P.M. Another Petrel (as above) wh. stripe extends far out on under surface of wings. Wednesday 4 March 1953 Lat 23°57'S; Long 157°02'W; course 267° T. Dist 368 mi. ST.T. 25 hr. Av sp 14.72 K. Wind SE 4-5 Sea moderate SE T.T. 13 d 18 hr 35 min To Brisbane: 2720; from Balboa 5015. About 11:15 Chief mate reported white-tailed tropic bird passing ship. A following sea, choppy. Overcast most of day. No sunset. Read & studied. In navigation (chart) room to read sailing directions on Goodenough Is. & eastern N. G. Thursday 5 March Lat 24°17' S; Long 163°39' W; course 267°T. Dist 365 mi. St. T. 24 hr. Av sp 15.21 K. Wind E 4-5 Sea E moderate T.T. 14 d 18 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 2355; from Balboa 5380. "Shorty" (Porto Rican crew member whose hobby is fishing) woke us up at 6:00 A.M. He had found a flying fish on deck. Says it may have come aboard about 2:00 A.M. (dead reckoning position at that time--Lat 24°05'S; Long 160°45' W) Fish about 8" long, blue. Preserved in Formaldehyde 12:1, in plastic bag. First day of trip that no birds seen. Rain squalls blowing down on ship most of day. Friday 6 March Lat 24°44' S; Long 170°13' W; course 266°T; dist 362 St. T. 25 hr. Av sp 14.48 K. Wind NW 4 (up to 6 in P.M.) Sea NW moderate T.T. 15 d 19 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 1993; from Balboa 5742 Another flying fish (#2) on forward well deck this A.M. D.R. position at 2:00 A.M. Lat 24°36'S; Long 167°15' W. A♀ with pinkish roe. About 12" long. Breeze stiffening all day up to 6:00 P.M. moderating at 7:00 P.M. Storm to S. of us near Kermadec Islands . We are S. of the Tonga Islands. More birds today since passing Galápagos Is. At least 1 wh.-t. tropic bird. 2 or 3 other white birds far out--may have been same. 2 types of Petrels: (A) large dark bird with dull brown upper parts & somewhat lighter underpts. --long narrow wings with perfect control of air--vertical bank as they catch wind & then swoop into trough; (B) smaller black dorsal & white ventral bird (10")--could not see if entire head black (think not). (A) 3 in 1 group at 12 M. At least 6 more singles during P.M. (B) 4 or 5. Sun out most of day. Short, colorful rose sunset on mackerel sky. Chief mate

[illegible]

Friday 6 March 1953 (cont) spent day securing ship awnings on bridge deck down. There is a hurricane crossing path of ship S. of New Caledonia. May cross tail of this in a day or two. We receive weather reports from New Zealand now; also send reports. Read: Life Science—M. W. de Laubenfels. 3rd Ed. 1946 Prentice Hall, Inc. 70 Fifth Ave., N.Y. 11 Saturday 7 March 4:00 A.M. Swells from SW & NW. Wind S. Running at slow speed. No rain. 8:15 A.M. course 248°T. Wind S 4-5. Raining. 1:45 Course 250°T. Lat (d.r.) 25°20'S; Long (d.r.) 175°26'W; course—various. Dist 288 mi. St. T. 24 hr Av sp 12 K. Wind—var. 7-5. Sea—moderate NW to SE. T.T. 16 d 19 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 1705; Balboa 6030. Course of storm track ESE. Ship has resumed full speed & we are now running out from under (to SW) a few big swells coming in from SSE. Ship on hand-steering. It is Sunday in Australia & evening services are coming in strong on radio. Also news broadcasts. In Chief officer's cabin most of evening. Laughing so much that Captain complained he couldn't sleep. Tonight we go to sleep on Sat. & wake up on Monday. 5-6 Petrels during day. Almost impossible to get good observations. Birds. blown down wind so fast as they bank out of troughs of waves. "White birds" reported roosting on mast by look-out. Not seen. Could be tropic birds (Sunday 8 March 1953—dropped) Monday 9 March 1953 Lat 26°07'S; long 177°57'E. Course 248—268° Dist 366 mi. St.t. 25 hrs. Av sp 14.64 K. Wind ESE 7-9 Sea ESE rough T.T. 17 d 20 hr 35 min. To Brisbane 1339 mi; Balboa 6396. Flying fish (#3) —d.r. position midnight Lat 26°00'S; Long 178°45'W. Could have come aboard anytime from 6 to 7 P.M. yesterday to same time this A.M. Spray blowing over ship most of day. Rain off & on. Waves look steep as they roll in our port quarter, but when seen broadside on, they flatten out. Not over 20 feet from crest to trough. Sea moderating rapidly in P.M. Captain invited men to bridge. 2nd mate (navigation officer) showed us around and explained devices & charts. Then Captain had us down to his cabin for cocktails. (I had Australian Port—terrible!) Read most of evening in mate's cabin. Talked with 3rd engineer until 1:00 A.M.; with 3rd mate on bridge until 2:00 A.M. Lovely night—sky—stars bright—Southern cross almost overhead—moon on the wane. Still blowing strong. 6-7 petrels during day. Crossed International Date Line early this A.M. Longitude changes from West of Greenwich to East. Tuesday 10 March 8:00 A.M. Course 268° Temp: Wet 67°F. Dry 74°F. Wind brisk (Beaufort scale 6). Stratocumulus cloud cover. Sun out occasionally. Ship riding easily—following sea on the port quarter.

Tuesday 10 March 1953 (cont) Lat 26°16'S; Long 171°27'E; course 268° Dist 350 mi. St.t. 24 hrs. Av sp 14.58 K. Wind SE 7-6; Sea--rough SE; T.T. 18 d 20 hr 35 min. Brisbane 1000; Balboa 6746. We passed a Norwegian freighter (eastbound) early this afternoon. Pitching could be plainly seen even the ship at dist of 7 miles. She will soon be bucking the waves we are running before. The storm finally passed well behind us on an ESE course. Fair all day & at 7 P.M. little motion. Read in A.M. Slept until dinner this P.M. 3 med. sized Petrels in A.M.--head not solid black. 1 med sized petrel 1 P.M. Head (dorsal & vent) black white under wing coverts plain. Captain advises us to book passage home on Wilhelmsen Line (Norwegian) by way of Suez. Takes about 30-32 days to London or Antwerp. Could leave ship at Gibraltar to meet K--then go to Balearic Islands--catch ship at Barcelona or Gibraltar for home ! Reed's "Tables of Distances" between ports & places in all parts of the world. Wednesday 11 March 1953 Lat 26°35'S; Long 165°00'E. Course 267° T. Dist 347 mi; St.t. 24 hr. Av sp 14.46 K Wind SE 4-5; Sea moderate SE; T.T. 19 d 20 hr 35 min. Brisbane 653 mi; Balboa 7093. At 3:00 P.M. (Lat 26°36'S; Long 164°12'E) observed a cloud shadow whirl of Petrels. Area of shadow about 10 acres--no. of birds 25-30. We are NW of Norfolk Island and due south of New Caledonia. 2 types of Petrel: large, blackish brown dorsal & vent (12"-15"); smaller 10"-12") dark-dorsal white-ventral, bl & wh "mixed" on head (only 2 or 3 of these). Large Petrel coasting by ship all day on the following wind. 1 Pet. still flying at dusk (7 P.M.) Temp. Wet 71° Dry 75°. Bright day, cool in shade. Ship on even keel. Everyone counting cigarettes& filling out customs declarations. Visited engine room from 8:00 to 9:00 A.m. Steam turbine single propeller plant. Simple in theory but a complex maze to the uninitiated. Capt. Eriksen giving hypnosis demonstra- tion tonight. Subject fair. Not too deeply under. Usual routine of holding arms out--rigid, forget name, told cup too heavy to pick up, could not bring match to tip of cigarette, could not open fist or shut mouth. Thursday 12 March Flying fish #4 (large) ♀ Lat 26°50'S; Long 157°56'E. Course 268°T. Dist 380 mi. St.t. 25 hr. Av sp 15.20 K. Wind E 4-5 Sea moderate E. T.T. 20 d 21 hr 35 min. Brisbane 254; from Balboa 7481. Bright day--face burned from reflection only. Temp Wet 71° Dry 75° Cloud shadows all day. At noon a loose flock of 15 ♀ large dark Petrels went past bow of ship (possibly going from 1 cl.shadow to next?). Odd individuals in sight most of P.M. (last at dusk--6:15 P.M.) Only 1 med. bl & wh Petrel--all black head. At noon--1 Booby: yellow bill "dark feet & legs, head completely brown--wings also, back pied brown & white, neck white--flew back & forth along weather side of ship, close in. [illegible]

Thursday 12 March 1953 (cont) Packed tonight: 2 suitcases, 1 briefcase. Tight squeeze. Read "My Six Convicts"— D. P. Wilson most of P.M. Short nap. Watched sunset from bow as usual—a localized one with flame clouds (looked beautiful thru glasses). Friday 13 March Arrived at Brisbane. Up at 4:00 A.M. Could see Cape Moreton light & pilot boat. Pilot came on in whale boat manned by 6 oar crew. Squall coming down & water choppy. Back to bed until six. Beautiful sunrise & good view of the Glass House Mountains. About 12 Jaegers following ship. Also a few of the large dark Petrels in Moreton Bay. Back to bed until 7:30. Birds seen coming up Brisbane River: large tern; bl & wh cormorant; small black cormorant; red-billed gull; wh-breasted sea eagle. Docked about 10:30. Interviewed by reporter (David Vincent) for evening paper & photographed. Same reporter in 1948. Met by Mr. Brooks (father of George B. in Cairns) & Mr. Williams (Bunting agent). Did not have to open bags. Mr. Brooks took us to Lennon's Hotel (Gen. McArthur's hdqts during war). After lunch went to Queensland Museum to visit Mr. Mack, Don Vernon, Jack Woods, Malcolm—. Mr. Mack showed me all the latest work on cases & displays (it is very fine !) New lights. Had tea. Don & I talked w until 6:15. Then to hotel for dinner. Also invited Cecily Sandercock (she has left Museum & is to be married April 11 to An old friend—has paw-paw farm). To room & talked. Then out to see Mr. & Mrs. Sandercock (met in 1948). Keith Jarrott called up & we had long talk about possibility of National Parks in British N.G. Took tram home about 11:30. Saturday 14 March By flying boat from Brisbane to Cairns (913 miles). Left Lennon's Hotel at 9:30 A.M. Taxi to Airlines Depot. Bus east along river to airport (past where S.S. Pioneer Glen docked). Mr. Dennis Williams (A.H.BUNTING agent) & Don Vernon & his 5 yr old daughter down to see us off. (We are over the ocean near Bowen (3 P.M.) & the air is rough). Little girl had her pet ringtail possum with her. Took pictures. (Now flying at 7000 ft—155 knots plus tail- wind 15 K. Over Townsville at 3:30. Will arrive at Cairns at 4:30 P.M. where we spend night). Take off from river with much splashing at windows (water only 2 feet below window) at 11:30 A.M. Plane arrived late from Sydney. Left one suitcase with Don (who will take to Q. Museum). Cut NW (inland) across the NE coastland hump. Crossed a mountainous area (Mt Perry) with thick scrub, cliffs & 1 waterfall. 7 of us are in a separate cabin forward—all for New Guinea. 1 girl who lived in N.G. for 1st 9 yrs of her life; 3 young men (Dr. Ruurd Hoogland, Swedish botanist; Australian Bruce W. Taylor —botany-ecologist (has been to McQuarren Is) & an Australian geomorphologist—(land forms)). Have just passed Magnetic Island which I visited in Oct 1948 on way down coast. Passing Palm Islands at 3:45. Put down at Cairns on schedule 4:30 P.M. George Brooks met us at dock. Went out home with him (2 sons Edward—9 on Mar 7; John is 8). Wife just home from operation. George has built a small office & Museum in his backyard. Has fine collection of beetles & a few snakes. Back to hotel for dinner—delicious bream. Tom & Amy (Jac) Webb & G.B. in for after dinner beer. Caught up on all the local gossip. To bed at 12:30. Mosquitoes. Rained in torrents about every 1/2 hr. Have had over 60 inches since start of year.

Sunday 15 March 1953 Breakfast at 7:30A.M. Kides Hotel (tea, apple juice, poached eggs & fat bacon). Bus at 8:15. Launch to seaplane tied to buoy at mouth of Russell River. Smooth take-off at 9:30. Circled over Cairns. Passing over inner reefs & small islands--surf wash very evident from air. Over the outer Barrier Reef at 10:45 A.M. Took 2 pictures of foam lines & shallow green water surrounded by blue water. Now angling NE over the Coral Sea. Scattered cumulus cover. Sun visible. Sky hazy. Lovely colors in sea on approach to Port Moresby--set in series of shallow indentations of coast--low hills (cone shaped) rise from water. Customs no trouble. Room at Papua Hotel--modern open-air cream color tropical hotel 300 yards from ocean. Arrived at Pt. M. 1:50. At 2:30 Mr. Ryan--Mgr. of Burns Philp --took me & his 3 children up into the mountains to see Rouna Falls, Romana War Cemetery, & Memorial to men who were killed on Kokoda Trail campaign. The falls are the site of a group at the Museum. Much open savannah on way up. Rain forest chiefly along streams. Above the falls you can see line after line of mts. running into the interior. The Papuans are a poker-faced lot, some fine specimens, many with bushy hair (saw one with bird-of-Paradise feather in hair). All wear lava-laves (long skirts) red cloth favored. Women wear gingham dresses or grass skirts. Took pictures of children. Looked at golf course (9 holes by the sea). Good dinner. Fish & lots of lemonade. G.& I went to beach to cool off in the trade winds--soft air. Monday 16 March Port Moresby to Samarai: 300 miles by flying boat. Up early. Breakfast at 7:45. To air office to weigh luggage--then to launch to ship. Off at 9:00. Circled Pt. M. (took picture) & then off along coast. Could see airport inland & S. ends of series of scarps. Rouna Falls up one of these valleys. Day fair with scattered cloud cover. Becomes wetter (more rain forest as we go east). Mt. Suckling in sight for 1/2 hr, then Dayman (where we are heading)--extensive upland, then Mt. Simpson & a number of lesser peaks to west. All clothed with forest on S. slopes. Joan asked Capt. to fly over her father's plantation (cacao, coconuts, rubber). Many large plantations along coast. Pattern of trees as seen from air very distinct. Glimpse of Milne Bay to N. & 4000 ft cloudy mts. near E. end of island. Then we were over Samarai--a tiny dot of an island set about with many larger islands--all in a blue sea. Len met us on wharf; also Ken Wynn (transport man); and George Miller (A.H. Bunting). Went up to Robert Bunting's home (near center)--he is in England--for a cold drink. Day very hot. Then up to Miller's home, where I am to stay, for lunch with "Dusty" & his fiancee. Beautiful breeze swept location (on 100 ft hill) looking north through China Straits. Whole house open air. Worked on boxes in P.M. Met many people. To club for ginger beer. Dinner at home and an evening of good talk. G. & Len" at Bunting's. After Ailsa went home "Dusty" and I collected Geckos from ceiling of house. Geoff not interested. Wrote letters to Kay & Dory. Sleep under nets. Very few insects. No screens. Tuesday 17 March Samarai. Up at 7:00 A.M. Sorted out my personal box & put aside material for food box (e.g. lime juice powder). "Dusty" (George) & I had breakfast at 7:45. Down to P.O. to send off letters 1 & 2 with diary pages to Kay. Also stereo(1) to Rochester for mounting; stereo(2) to Flushing (not to be mounted) --send to Archbold office. Flying boat taking mail this A.M. Terr. of Papua has its own stamps. "Small boy" (young Papuan house boy) carried my duffle down to Bunting warehouse. Spent morning listing & sorting my equipment. Ken Wynn's boy sharpened my machete. We have all our boys now. Cook boy is said to be

[illegible]

Tuesday 17 March 1953 (cont) very good--trained by Ailsa's mother. Also does laundry. 2 of original boys showed positive for T.B. so could not go. District Officer Healey has strict rules. Formerly a patrol officer & went with '36 Expedition. Archbold is a well-known name out here. Tea at 10:30. Warehouse closed at 12 until 1:30. To Club (returned Servicemen's ) for a ginger beer with Ken & Geoff. Then to Bunting's home for a short chat with Len. Home for lunch at 12:45. Ailsa makes a wonderful mustard mayonnaise to go with asparagus tips & vegetables. Took pictures thru trees of China Straits. Sorted papers. Worked at boxes until 4:30. Up for pail shower & dress for reception at Bunting's. D. O & wife, 2 Sisters (nurses)--one Valence Cash& about 15-20 other Samarai residents there to meet us. Ties but no coats. Ginger beer, oyster mix & crab canapes. Left at 7:45 for home. More g.b. & talk with "D" & "A" --our feet on the coffee table--shoes and socks off ! Assembled my jack-light. "Shone" a few flying foxes in coconut trees. Can not use firearms on Samarai. Large toad--said to have been imported. Wednesday 18 March Samarai. Took pictures around "Dusty's" home. View to SW and l of house. "Tom"(cook & head house boy) took my personal trunk down to shed. We all finished our re-organizing in A.M. "S. S. S inkiang"(2000 tons) came in to dock. Carries 12 passengers. Runs from Australia to Samarai & up to Rabaul & other island ports. Looks clean & comfortable. Cleaned & assembled my shotgun and put out shells for trip. After lunch walked along N. shore & east end of Island. Wireless station, police station & native hospital. Met Dr. Sirko and Mr. Matthews (medical assistant). Asked for advice about tropical ulcers. Good book: Diseases Commonly met with in Melane sia-C. S. James-- 3rd ed. (7/6)--Messrs. Whitcombe & Tombs, Ltd. (any Australian branch or Auckland, N. Z.) To A. H. Bunting to buy nails, strip style band aids & sulfa powder. Mr. & Mrs. Gribben (Ailsa's mother & dad) work there. At 4:30 Dusty & Ailsa took me over to a beautiful little coral beach island-- Deika-Delka--where we anchored just off the beach & went for a swim. Water about 78°. No waves. Clean water. No sharks. The "Wari" is a comfortable old fashioned cruiser with sail. Ran back in cool of day. Delicious sherry for dinner (Australian). We went down to store after dinner for a ham (packed in seeds). Dusty is Mgr.of Bunting's; Ailsa, head secretary. Saw a few flying foxes. Visited Mrs. Gribben. Then up to house for ginger beer & talked until 12:30 A.M. Dusty was bomber pilot during war. Shot down over Germany. P. of war for 2 1/2 years. Has many friends in Canada & States. He knows Mr. & Mrs. Long of Oyster Bay (collies) very well. Wants me to look up. Thursday 19 March Samarai. Our last day here. Our expedition boxes & equipment & food loaded in A.M. on 55 ft "Govilan" (capacity 50 tons). "S.S.Sinkiang" left for north. Met "Mick" Buzzettin from Mackay. He knows "Jetty Joe" McLoughlin very well. Runs a barge. Told me he has seen a "Striped tiger-cat" one day's walk N. of Coen, near head of Lockhard River, 8 miles E. of bush track, open forest. Met Noel Alexander--one of Ken's friends--loading boss for B.P. Has 75 boys working for him. Geoff & I had our last haircuts at 4:00 P.M. Half-cast barber (Tom English) in back of D.C.'s office (3/o = 36¢). Walked 1/2 way around island to our house. Met the D.C. Mick Healy & said good-bye. He may visit us on Cape Vogel. Met a Mick Russell who said he has seen small bats on Samarai-- also at Kwato Mission on Q. Islands. Left medical book at hopital. Len & Geoff & Ken invited to Miller's for dinner. Ham, duck, dressing, gravy, onions, potatoes, hot cinnamon apple sauce, delicious Australian white wine, vanilla

[illegible]

Thursday 19 March 1953 (cont) pudding on cake with rum, cr. de m. & ginger beer. A wonderful evening until the o.p. rum started taking its toll. Guests left at 1:45 A.M.(G.TOOK ANOTHER SPILL AGAIN. LOOKS HIS NOSE & FOREHEAD AGAIN. LOOKS A WRECK TODAY BUT NOTHING BROKEN). Learning our boys' names: Jimmy--head boy--tall & with a dignity lacking in others; David--Ken's personal boy; Kimi--our cook (last 2 speak good English); Sigimutu--smiles, has big scar on chest; Niko--tall, a little surly; Lik Lik--ringworm on arm; Isilele--small boy; Losima, from Goodenough--all others from Ferguson. 2 more: Lobaf & ? 2 flying foxes near Miller's (copulating & squealing)--very broad straw yellow mantle, large. Beautiful starlight. Friday 20 March Up at 5 A.M. Dawn just breaking at 5:15. Breakfast of tomato juice. Out of house before "Dusty" woke up. "Small boy" carried my briefcase & tripod down to dock. Ken on hand but no sign of Len & Geoff. Walked up to Buntins to call them. Finally left wharf at 7 A.M. Blue sky day--air quiet, rather warm. Running north from Samarai for China Straits passage. Shores lined with coconut plantations. 8:15--opened up Milne Bay and set course for East Cape. Islands in all directions. Beautiful rain forest on ridges just in from coast. 11:00 A.M. Ken & I, Geoff & Len (sleeping) sitting in our canvas chairs under a tarpaulin on the forward hatch. Cool breeze. Still off Milne Bay. Through channel at East Cape & NW along coast. A mission station at Cape. Across the Sound we see Ferguson and Normanby Islands (both with mts over 3600'). A few dolphins at 3 P.M. White reef herons & large tern at East Cape. 8 Also 1/2 doz smaller terns. Set of current is against us & engine is not powerful--we are making poor time. Rain coming up late in day. Supper of rice with meat & sauce, Samarai baked bread & State brand apricot jam (tea of course). A few dim lights along shore, but no navigation lights. Raining and difficult to run except with compass. 2 or 3 look-outs on deck. Finally reached Cape Frere and village of Wedau at 1:00 A.M. Tiny wharf. Opened our cots on wharf. Beach lined with coconut palms. Too late to jack. Saturday 21 March (Native village--Wedaw) From Dogura to Menapi. Awake at 6:15. Dark cloud-covered hills looming up behind Mission station which is set up a hundred feet on old sea terrace; has a regular "cathedral" (church of England). Boys slept on shore in shelter. I moved my cot onto rear hatch at about 2:00 A.M. English wide cot very comfort- able--slept under 1 blanket. Boys on board at 7:00 and we are cutting across bay to Cape Vogel. Now passing green knife-ridge hills--slopes burned year after year--trees only in gullies. Up the coast the high coastal ranges are blue. Bucking NW wind--little chop. Tea and toast at 7:15. Kimi (cook boy) very conscientious. Goodenough and Ferguson loom dimly off to NE. Very broken overcast. At 8:45 brown Booby--entirely brown above, wh. under wing coverts, bill pale straw. Rain squall coming down coast. Called at Baniara (gov. station on the so-called Mosquito Islands). Picked up cadet patrol officer Skewes for the 1/2 hr run east along coast to native village and mission station Menapi. Our supplies went ashore not as planned by dinghy & by outrigger canoe. One load tipped canoe & we lost bag of sugar & some of Le n's newspapers were dampened. Boys carried me ashore so I wouldn't have to remove boots. Called on Father Chisholm at Mission. Visitor, Miss Kinear also there--they have ice box.Had tea & cake. Went jacking at night. 10 Mus. specials out near house. Flying squirrels in coconut trees. I shot one & Ken one. Village boys shot

Saturday 21 March 1953 (cont) 2 flying foxes & brought them to us. Saw squirrel glide from 1 tree to next. Knocked him down with .410 but he landed in brush & got away. Many flying foxes about. Sunday 22 March Score 6 Menapi. Nothing but small crabs in line of 10 Mus. specials. Skinned & made up 4 specimens & 2 pouch young: 2 Petaurus (& 2 young); 1 Dobsonia & 1 Pteropus. Arranged bed & gear. Boys put up work fly & Geoff & I moved our gear boxes out of Gov. rest house. Rest house is built on low stilts & frame work of logs. Roof is a palm thatch. Partitions are of split wood. House is only 20 yards from sea. No waves. Native toilets built out over water. We have an out house. Overcast in A.M. Clear in P.M. Short shower in A.M.-- ccaught thatch drip for drink. Some of our drinking water comes from Mission roof. One corner partition is bathroom--no shower. No luck shooting small bats tonight. Flying foxes going west along shore at 6:30 (deep dusk). We had fresh water fish for breakfast & curry & rice tonight. Wake up bell at Mission rang at 6 A.M. Our boys were sorted out today among us. I have David (Ken's personal boy)--speaks English--very keen; v Lik Lik-- skin infection on arms; Isilele-youngest boy--looks interested & likely. Ken brought home 2 bottles of warm ginger beer from store (trading house) for my dinner. We bought native bananas today--good. May get coconuts tomorrow. Boy brought in large (30") green lizard for Geoff. While at dinner a Gecko jumped in Len's hot coffee & killed himself--went into Geoff's can. Kimi-- our cook did my laundry today. He is a good cook, too. Specimen numbers start with 11651. Monday 23 March Score 1 Native brought in 1 Pteropus shot in village last night. Gave him 2 shells. Had skinning lesson with 3 boys looking on. Strung up 100 rat traps. All boys and myself out looking for likely trap sites in afternoon. David out with me. Set traps in limestone ridges 1/2 mile east of Menapi. Big boulders and many large trees--dark in woods. "Inferior Primary Forest"--L.J.B. Small bats out at dusk high over this forest--may roost in limestone crevices. Out jacking for 3 hrs last night. Many flying foxes about coconuts and bread- fruit. Waded thru plume grass (Saccharum--related to sugar cane) at least 10 feet high. Saw small mammal in fern-plastered tree. Could not shoot. No sign of possums. Stopped at Bill Mason's store for a beer & short visit. Showed me around stores-- staples, knives & ginger beer ! (He is going to keep some in the frig. for me ). He also showed me copra storage houses--one for loose and one for bagged. Copra is dried coconut meat. Best is hot-air dried, next smoked, last is sun-dried. 6000 nuts to make a ton. Sells for 65 £s a ton. Smells rather good--heavy & oily. Bag weighs 160-165 pounds. Much building activity in camp today--boys building tables. Very clever with vines for lashing & mid-rib section of sago palm. Thatch is made of leaves of sago palms. Sitting under shade at shore today with SE breeze & heavy shower came up. Len & Geoff out and were soaked. Overcast and gentle rain about 6-7. Tuesday 24 March Today has been rather eventful. Up at 6:00 A.M. to run line of traps--nothing. Not one animal taken in 100 rat traps. Sent boys out to look for small bats in

Tuesday 24 March 1953 (cont) bananas. Spent morning stringing more traps for a new line. David and 2 boys came in with 7 tiny bats--saved the day! 5 in formalin--made 2 up. D o not know genus--separated ears, simple face, color varies from brown to red brown. Found them in holes in coconut, breadfruit, and fruit trees. A SE wind blowing in A.M. Very comfortable while I wrote to Key #2, Uncle Will, & a thank you to Ailsa and Dusty Miller. There was a chance of a boat today, but didn't show up. Ken out with Geoff this A.M. David was near and shot a Goana--yellow spots. Out at 4:30 to set trapline (25) up gallery forest c-reek N. of Rest House. Back by way of football field--fun to see half naked boys booting a soccer ball around. Stopped at Bill Mason's store for a bottle of cold ginger beer. Good! Tried the lemon powder today. With sugar very good--citrus flavor is welcome in this climate 80° at 8:00 A.M. Paw paw for breakfast. Tony Skewes, patrol officer, here for dinner and the night. Len getting info about Mt. Maneao. Out jacking in gallery forest. Our first cuscus o--a brown dorsal stripe. Hung up in pandanus. David shinned up nearby tree & finally grabbed it by tail. Climbs tree like a tree-climbing kangaroo! Also another flying squirrel in coco- nut. A boy brought in 2 young Dobsonia (found in coconut); 2 sticks trade tobacco and sheet of newspaper. David also shot ad. Dobsonia--hung up under palm leaf. Wednesday 25 March Menapi. Another active day. David and I skinned most of day. Showed D. on 1/2 fat; then he did other 1/2. Then gave him flying squirrel to do. Very apt and interested. Lik Lik and Isilele were out all A.M. but found nothing. In P.M. I turned up a crop of 16 small bats--same species as yesterday--young and 1/2 grown. All dead except 3 which I will make up tomorrow. Ken and David went out shooting tonight--one Dobsonia. I also went out for a few minutes and shot a Dobsonia. They hang up under coconut fronds. The yellow- mantled foxes are usually in among the nuts. Had my cuscus skin lying out poisoned and dog almost ran away with it. A beautiful day with variable winds. Thought I was under cover but got a burn on top of head. Hot bath before dinner was a treat (you ladle the water over you). 82° F at 9:00 P.M. Not a breath of air. Ken sleeping outside in hammock stretched between 2 coconuts. Few mosquitoes. Taking Aralen faithfully. Melon and lemon jam broken out today. My favorite. Lemon powder drink good with banana. Cooking is done on top of oil drum which sticks up thru kitchen floor. No danger of fire--so they say. Bill Mason came in for a visit tonight. "Govilon" may be in tomorrow to take mail to Samarai. Caught first rat (Gallery rain forest)--spiny-haired. Thursday 26 March Menapi. Ran traps--nothing. Lik Lik brought in one spiny rat, all chewed up by ants--may have been caught in early evening. Where is the rat population? Isilele brought in a Bandicoot. Cracked across skull. Young boys brought in a small light colored rat. Also 4 young rats but not the progeny of 11690. Paid boys with 2 large crackers. Some men from the mountains came in to the village in P.M. One had a fighting stick which I bought for Anthropology. I was skinning and pinning specimens in front of Rest House--continual stream of little boys and on up gathered in front of table. I don't know what they think of the work that goes on here. 2 more lizards brought to Geoff. Ken leaves tomorrow to climb Mt. Maneao to

Thursday 26 March 1953 (cont) search out the land and arrange for carriers. He will be away 2 weeks. Out jacking tonight for a couple of hours. Shot one frogmouth; and David caught one frog. Went N. thru the coconut and sago palm plantations. Ken has just come in out of the rain—he was sleeping in his hammock. David and I strung bat net today near house between two coconut trees. Had warm bath (poured from a cup) after jacking. Pleasant breeze. Temp over 80°. Boat came in to Baniara today—runner may bring mail down to Menapi tomorrow. Heavy rain and thunder and lightning after went to sleep. Friday 27 March Menapi. 10:30 P.M. Have just had my hot "shower" after a couple of hours of jacking down the Baniara trail. I spotted and shot a cuscus ♂ in a tree tangle. Also a Dobsonia. David shot a Petaurus. Earlier in evening I noticed bats flying back and forth just outside the veranda. So I started shooting parallel with house (after dark). Did not think I got any, but looked anyway and there was our first bent-winged bat (Miniopterus) ! Shifted net now between house and my work fly. Today we skinned the 2 bandicoots and 1 small bat. The B's were tender-skinned as usual; Q slipped a little. David is doing very well. Ken went off on Mr. Spiller's boat "Ruru". Back in 2 weeks. We walked down on beach to see him on board. "Ruru" is a copra pick up and trade boat. Mail came from Baniara by runner. Still no mail from home. Letter from Mr. Milne (Royal Bank—Medellin)—also one from Srt. Velez. (100 shares of "Tobaco" bought at 30 pesos. Balance will be used to buy a few more shares.) Shifted trap lines about today. Still have 125 out. Geoff's boys made a record haul of frogs today. I caught a small red-tailed lizard. Can hear wing beats of flying foxes in tree next to house. Outrigger with old man and woman put in here this A.M. Bought 2 pineapples and 2 paw paws for 8 sticks of trade tob. Pineapple for lunch—delicious. Saturday 28 March Menapi. 1 Melomys in trap line. New for collection. A tiny little boy brought me 2 mice (Mus) vine attached to a hind leg of each. Gave him a cracker. Another village boy brought me 2 young but large rodents. And finally native came in with small brown & white rat—also tied to vine—says it comes from wrapped banana stalk (still attached). Skinned all A.M. (David); cleaned skulls—showed Lik Lik how. Isilele was getting practice doing cuscus feet. Will come in handy in the mts. Tonight was one of those nights: we fired at 3 squirrels & did not get one. For the last David went up coconut tree with 2 feet in strap & climbed in & around fronds & nuts (not an easy job). I shot a yellow-mantled Pteropus . David had light coming in & spotted a tiny blossom bat under coconut frond. Shot & missed. Moon almost full. No small bats shot tonight. Kim made bread—excellent. Had visit before dinner from Father Chisholm & Miss Kinear. Bishop due tomorrow. Geoff and I walked down to visit Bill Mason for a few minutes. Met his partner's wife, Mrs. Spiller—a native Papuan. Very pleasant. Len strained back and could not go out today—boys brought in a few plants. 3 foot Goanna in one of boy's traps. Boys still singing—their favorite pass- time. Very pleasant tonight.

Sunday 29 March 1953 Palm Sunday (59) A quiet Sunday-- a hot heavy day with some light rain & an occasional breeze. Isilele skinned a Melomys & Lik Lik a fruit bat. They did fairly well but will never be as good as David, who acted as their instructor. Also had a small Bandicoot which I made up. Wrote to Dr. Anthony details of first week in camp. Mission boat with bishop was due in Menapi today but failed to arrive. Hope to send mail to Samarai on her. Today all the village girls had their best dyed grass skirts on. While our skinning lesson was inprogress, they all crowded around for a close look. It was rather disconcerting since they wear nothing above the skirt! Some have good figures & many have faint facial tattoos. Tonight David & I jacked around Rest House--2 flying foxes--Dobsonia & Pteropus. One hung up in coconut and one of small village boys climbed tree without any foot strap--went up very fast. Gave him a cracker for his trouble. Len is better today but did not go out. Boys are collecting for him. Caught a Gecko here in Rest House. Dinner tonight: rice, curried meat, chutney, boiled potatoes, canned peaches, with rum and milk sauce, glass of lemonade. Geoff's insect trap is on every night but not much is flying tonight. I'm falling asleep in my chair and it is only 10 P.M. Gentle rain again. Monday 30 March (60) Menapi. Strong breeze today with some light rain. Cold spell--temp. 78°. David and I went jacking in big scrub NE of village. Combed the place back & forth but no animals. Out for 3 hours. At 10:30 P.M. in front of Mission, shot a flying fox. In afternoon Geoff and I and 5 boys visited same rain forest to look place over and to collect. We scared a few small bats out of trees but could not catch them. Trail very wet but my boots are wet proof so far. Isilele has sore foot so we gave him the day off. Village boy brought in a beautiful kingfisher--tied by legs at end of stick. Put in formalin. The cracker trade keeps up with Geoff on the receiving end most of the time--lizards and butterflies. Brought home 2 bottles of ginger beer from Bill Mason's. Mission boat arrived late in A.M. with bishop. Off again at 2:00 P.M. Did not see. The "Ruru" is in again but is not going to Samarai. "Govilon" due on Thursday. Mail will go by this boat. Felt good to get to bed tonight. Will write today's diary tomorrow. Tuesday 31 March (61) Menapi. A beautiful clear day with the SE wind blowing off the bay. Skinned the flying fox and a mouse from the rain forest that does not look like Mus--a silver brown. While I was at the skinning table, Father Chisholm and most of the village youngsters came by singing a responsive chant. The ceremony was the planting of the Cross on the sands. The young voices were lovely. Combination of incense swinger, robes, rough wooden cross and grass skirts. Took several pictures. Miss Kinear brought us a bottle of ice cold water from Mission frig. Unpinned many specimens today--it was a good drying day. Set a new trap line of 25 today in the rain forest west of the stream. David, Lik Lik and Isilele put out 100 traps in big rain forest n.e. of village. Len out today . Feeling much better. Jacking with David tonight--nothing except flying foxes. Found a tree with small Series--tube nosed bat. Tried to switch them and shoot while hovering--but no luck. Tried to switch bats in front of rest house--nothing. Lovely view of village and coast from top of ridge to north of village. Took pictures of boys. David had beautiful flowers in hair and stuck under arm bands. Len and G. in bed--lead regular life compared to me.

Wednesday 1 April 1953 Menapi. Ran my new trap line—nothing. However, the 3 boys with a new line in the big scrub came thru with 3 Rattus and 5 Melomys (large). Spent A.M. making skins; finished about 3:00 P.M. Geoff and I walked up brook looking for small fish in pools. Plenty. G. fired .410 into shallows—no good. An excellent spot for poisoning. Went on up stream to the wild fig, where we watched them feeding last night. Strung net up and cleared undergrowth. Noticed some flies buzzing and sure enough there was a bat that I shot last night. A real prize! Took him home and made up before supper. Kim and Losima brought in a cuscus that they spotted while out walking. Then David came in from baiting traps with another Cuscus—alive. Went jacking up stream and ended up at net. One more bat! Len and G. to Mission to say good-bye to Miss Kinear. Hot shower. Thursday 2 April Menapi. The 3 boys skinned the 2 cuscus in the A.M. Did a good job but slow. 1 Rattus and 2 Melomys in David's rain forest trap line. This P.M. while baiting his traps he found a small q Bandicoot in one of tall grass sets. Came home and 'skinned it out. Before skinning this A.M. I lined up my boys, also Losima and Kim, for a picture. There was a great fuss made about getting the most colorful flowers and leaves. Len had a long walk today—did not arrive home until 12:30 P.M. Nothing in net this A.M. or in trap line. However, the long-tongued little Fruit Bat makes up for a lot. This is the first score for the net that I bought from Sanborn at Chicago. Early this evening we had a steady rain. Cleared and we watched moon rise. Shot at small bats in front of house tonight. Hit one very small bat (score 3 for wing shots). Winged a larger bat but did not come down. The boy brought limes in and we now have a bottle of juice for limeade. Mission boat left A.M. for Dogura and then goes on to Samarai with our mail. Len and I plan to go east to a small village where there are bat-caves—next Tues. Return Friday on same boat (Ruru) that will be bringing Ken home from Maneao. Caves are in limestone and are supposed to be quite extensive. Hope they produce! Looked in coconuts close to house for "foxes" and squirrels. Foxes few tonight or very quiet. Must get today's skulls out of Len's botanical dryer. Since I am last one to bed, I also take Geoff's light bug jar down for the night. Friday 3 April Menapi. Good Friday. Very strictly kept by the Mission. Our boys had a holiday today and were unison singing and beating on tin cans in A.M. Father Chisholm came down and asked Len to keep them quiet until 3:00 P.M. since the day is one of silence and fasting. Made up our Bandicoot and bat. Put specimens out under fly to dry. Many of the girls and boys were crowding around to see them. One, Arthur, offered to show us some good hunting trails—said we should be out between 6 and 7 P.M. Says there is a big white cuscus here, also a Bandicoot with black eye rings. Completely reorganized my collecting and storage boxes today. Took most of afternoon. No mammals in traps this A.M. Took up my traps and reset 15 in grass in P.M. Nothing more in bat net. Tonight I shot 2 flying foxes (y. mantle) fighting in coconut tree—one came down and 0 stayed up. David wanted to climb up but I prefer to have him do it tomorrow in daylight. We opened a 5 man combat 1 day ration kit today: cocoa, string beans, meat balls and spag., jam, crackers, beef stew, candy bars, chewing gum, and a few other items. We had Bill Mason the trader down for dinner tonight. The Trades have been blowing steadily all day and it is still lovely and cool tonight. A very low surf and a waning moon. Saw white Cockatoos and Hornbills and a beautiful white-headed hawk (redish wings) today.

[illegible]

Saturday 4 April 1953 Menapi. Made up 2 "foxes" while David and the 2 boys went out hunting. David came back with a new kind of Cuscus--small and brown with white under pts ex- tending only to pouch--1 pouch young. A small boy "Sebastian" brought in another ♀ same species. David shot his Cuscus in a tree--asleep. 1 broad-nosed bat brought in by men--gave him a stick of tobacco. Isilele found 2 small mice in forest--may be young of Melomys. We all skinned this P.M. Isilele still pulling legs off mice. Tony Skewes and another patrol officer (O'Sullivan) came in from Baniara. Had a drink while I was shooting bats. In good form tonight. Shot 5 Miniopterus on the wing--one has a bright chin marking of fox brown. May only be color phase of uniformly colored one. Took a picture of David climbing coconut for the ♂fox that would not fall down today. He is a good c climber. Took my first picture of grass skirts. Several snakes came in from small boys and men today: tree; python; black; and a lovely brown with very distinct scallation. Natives bring them in with a stick split at one end to pin neck. One of our native neighbors brought me a pineapple--gave him some Nescafe. Gave the boy who brought the Cuscus a large cracker and a roll of life savers. (lollies). Took picture of Geoff, tree snake and small fry. A comfortable day with Trades. Moon is up and a few foxes are about. Boys are all singing. Sunday 5 April Our wedding anniversary (18th). Easter Sunday and singing from the Mission Church could be heard while I sat at the skinning table. The Hal. chorus was lovely. Spent a busy day. Had a new kind of Rattus in my traps this A.M.--large with short tail and hind foot. Made the brown Cuscus into a study skin. Put all the Miniopterus in formalin except the brown-ruffed specimen. We welcomed a boat in from Samarai--"Betty Ann" about 1:30 P.M. My first mail from home! Letter #4 from Key (sent Mar 18) with clippings. Letter from Don and Miss Grobe with all the latest Museum news . Note from Dusty and Ailes. We took time out and had a real reading session. Tom Gilliard's Geographic article arrived. Spectacular pictures. Native came in with 4 Dobsonia. Had to explain that we could collect easily ourselves (but I took them). To dinner at Mrs. Hobart Spiller's home. She put on a real spread: soup, scrub turkey, native "asparagus", Yorkshire pudding, onions, peas, pot., jello and ice cream! and iced cake, cordial and ginger beer. Could hardly move. Sitting room is on 2nd floor--very cool--no netting. Mrs. S. is a Papuan with strong feelings against the Mission. She has a copra plantation and Bill Mason handles business while Mr. S. is away. Home to write letters to Kay (on boat to Bermuda) and T. D. Carter. A lovely soft night with moon rising late. Monday 6 April Menapi. "Betty Ann" left with our mail & stereo #3. Another busy day. The boys brought in 2 Melomys--we had a banana rat from the day before plus the 4 Dobsonia (fruit bats) which one of the villagers shot for me. Boys working well as a team now. Had skins and skulls out drying--unpinned a few skins--a good drying day. It is blowing SE tonight--splitting a bit--no stars out. Had an interested audience off and on during the day. Girls, small boys, old men. They get quite a kick out of watching the various steps, but they can't really understand why I am collecting (nor can some Montclair people)! Explaining a Museum is difficult. This is Holy Monday--a holiday here. About 3 o'clock some of the villagers started passing, all dressed in dancing costume--head, arm and leg dresses. Some with tails. Had long hour-glass drums. A big dance on the Mission soccer field tonight. All the girls in their best skirts. Talked with Father Chisholm--says dance may go on all night. Our boys busy making ornaments out of palm leaves and flowers. Let them off early this P.M. No jacking tonight. Too much wind for bats. Geoff and I are

Monday 6 April L953 (cont) going over to watch dancing. Len and I leave for Dabora tomorrow at 1 P.M. Isilele spotted a "flying squirrel" in our bread fruit tree and David shot it. 3 black cockatoos with vivid red patches below eyes were in coconuts in A.M. Very spectacular--3" 4" head crest. Tuesday 7 April From Menapi to Dabora. Sailed about 1:15 P.M. on the "Ruru" for a short run (1 hr) down the peninsula to the small village of Dabora. We left Geoff in charge of the Menapi camp. Len and I brought our 6 boys and Losima to cook. The "Ruru" is on charter to us to bring back Ken Wynn from the head of Collingswood Bay; she is also trading on the way. We had a lot of passengers on board for various points on the coast--had all been in town for Easter. Our gear was put aboard and unshipped without accident. They load the row boat until there is only an inch or two of freeboard. One of the outriggers turned over. The Rest House has two rooms and a kitchen--we are very comfortable. Len and I walked west along the coast trail for a mile or so in P.M. There are limestone heads along the coast. Put out 11 traps and each boy has 10. Token trapping because we want to visit caves for bats tomorrow. Shot a Scotinus and Miniopterus before supper--also a third but could not find. Shot a Petaurus about 8:30 in cocnut. Made up 4 skins this A.M.--then packed for trip. A steady SE wind tonight--stars out, lovely and cool. Geoff and I stayed at dance last night for about an hour. Our boys were having their sing in competition with the village boys who were doing a real dance and were ornamented elaborately. Dancing monotonous. Visit from Oswin--village cop--and Timothy--village linguist. Asked about caves. Big rain forest about a mile inland. To bed 9:30. David found 3rd bat--Miniopterus. Good drinking water ran out--brushed teeth in cold tea. Wednesday 8 April Dabora. Spectacular coll. day! After a skinning a Rattus, Melomys, Petaurus and Miniopterus--ringed by 15 natives--we threw our caving gear together and set off to the east to visit the Tapitapipi Caves. Turned N. east of Dabora village. Trail led thru 20 grass land and banana plantations and 2nd growth rain forest. Hot inland away from breeze. Up a sharp limestone scarp (map gives 200') and finally to a dry gulley which led into a tremendous sink hole in the limestone. We used another sink entrance 100 yards away. Tight entrance but opens out immediately into tunnel like passages. Took right tunnel which led into chamber 40-50' in dia. We collected 8 species in this spot: large and small Dobsonia and Miniopterus; 3 sizes of Rhinolophus; a small Hipposideros; total of 74 specimens! Brings our total to 191 for 19 days. Stalactite and stalagmite formations scattered in various chambers but coarse. Bat droppings all over floor. David was good with switch. I shot some with dust & #9. Some village boys with us knocked down some big Dobsonia. Many spiders in cave but no bottle-nosed snake! Followed central and left tunnels until drops stopped us. Solution tunnels with water dropping To lower levels. Too dark at entrances for pictures. Big entrance with many St.Tite and St.mites-- rain forest. Len visited cave earlier in day. Back along coast--took swim in warm shallow water. Fixed and sorted over bats. Blue pigeon soup and stew for dinner. Thursday 9 April Dabora. A busy but interrupted day. Measured 3 Dobsonia and got the 3 boys started skinning. Did up 5 of the bats from caving trip. There were various natives coming to door selling Betel nuts, bananas and native asparagus. And right in the middle of the morning a native rushed in and said he had spott-ed

Thursday 9 April 1953 (cont) a white Cuscus ! Sent David out to shoot it. Came back in a little while with a 12.5 lb Cuscus--brown feet, white and some cream wash, a few rusty spots. Len out for long hike east along coast to savana forest country. Heard Wallabies. Back late for lunch and tired out. Worked on specimens all afternoon. SE breeze all day (and tonight). Rice and curried meat for supper, jam, bread, pineapple and limeade. and coffee. Sent David out jacking tonight in same spot they found the ♂ Cuscus. Back an hour later with a ♀ white Cuscus and its 1 large young ! Also 2 ♀ brown Cuscuses--1 with 1 pouch yg, other w.z. White ♀ has brown feet and brown dorsal wash--no spotting. I shot another Miniopeterus at dusk. Checked my specimen tags against catalog. 199 is the new total. Boys took body of ♂ Cuscus to Kai (eat)--gave some to villagers. Our Rest House is upon 3 foot posts as are all village houses in Dabora. Chickens, pigs, cats and dogs wander around underneath. Almost 11 P.M. Village goes to bed very early. Stars out bright--no moon, until A.M. Wind coming up. Friday 10 April Dabora to Menapi by "Ruru". Boat came day early. Ken Wynn on board returning from ascent of Mt. Maneao. Boys spent A.M. skinning out 3 Cuscuses. I tagged all the alcoholic bats.Injected 2 rats and 1 small Bandicoot which boys had in traps. Bought 1 Melomys from villager. Boat in early--asked them to wait until 5 P.M. so Len and I could finish off some of our work. The big ♀ Cuscus is unspotted but has a brown wash. Boat could not come back tomorrow so Len and I packed our gear and waited for boys to bring in traps. David found a small brown Cuscus on the way so he tied him on a pole and we brought him home on the boat. After dinner tonight we had a meeting to hear Ken's report on his ascent of Maneao. We decided on our "summit camp" which will be at the last water. Top of mt. is 2 hour walk from camp. Plan to make this our first camp and stay for about a month. Start for top about 1st week in May. Boys happy to see Ken and getting back to Menapi. Skinned out baby Cuscus just before boat left and finished him at Menapi. All specimens left here seem dry and in good shape. Patrick and Jimmy--boys who went with Ken--are quite proud of themselves. Ken may have been 1st white man on summit. Brought home a Possum--long hair, dark brown c-oll. over 2000 Met. Dog ran off with lower jaw. Reports lots of mammal sign. SE Trades blowing strong tonight. No jacking. No traps. No bats flying. Saturday 11 April Menapi. No trap line to run this A.M. Boys will bait up again this P.M. Spent A.M. skinning out formalined rats from Dabora and David's Cuscus. Made up skins in P.M. and unpinned dry specimens. Ken and Geoff spent A.M. fixing forearm of a shotgun. Ken is very good with mechanical problems. Geoff's boys went fishing in the tiny stream in back of camp. Came in with 4 eels & 3 kinds of small fish. David brought in a very long-tailed fringed lizard-- our first. Boys have been excited all day about party Ken is throwing for them tonight. He has bought some rations and betel nut. Some of the village women brought their black clay cooking pots and were boiling rice. Village men drummers and dancers showed up after dark and started warming up. Boys all decked out in fancy lava-lavas and arm and head flower bands. Our boys were singing at same time as village boys--seems to make no difference to either group. Ferguson chant and "sissing" is very monotonous. Each dance tells a specific story. Father Chisholm rang Mission bell at 9:30 and 10 P.M.

Saturday 11 April 1953 (cont) Dancing stopped but eating and joking went on for hours. Ken really knows these people and how to get on with them. Quite different from the "old N. G. hand" treatment. Wind blowing hard today--few insects and few bats. Ken slept outside in his hammock. No bats. No jacking. Rain spoiled trap baits. Sunday 12 April Menapi. 2 rats in Lik Lik's trap line. Total for day. Reset grass line. (73) David and I worked on specimens in A.M. Made up last of large Dobsonia from bat cave. Lik Lik and Isilele went west to river--report large swamp but good possible trapping upstream. Len, Geoff and Ken left after breakfast to walk to Baniara (gov. station--2 hrs walk)--social call and sounding out about possible help to the mountain phase of trip. Ken tells me they clammed up as far as official aid concerned. However, they are juniors and District officer Healy has promised us any aid requested. Ken thinks, too, that Tony O'Sullivan is crook because he made the ascent of Mt. Dayman first. Bill Mason came over about noon and invited me down for Sunday dinner at Mrs. Spiller's home. Small pancakes & honey, meat rolls, ginger beer and tea with cupcakes. Very heavy rain caught me after dinner and I listened to news and read So Pac. Monthly--a most interesting journal with lots of shipping news--all sorts of interesting island trips. Not expensive but you need time. An article about the men we met on plane to Pt. Moresby. From Land Resources & Regional Survey Section of C.S.I.R.O. Taylor, Hoogland & Patterson. Hoogland to visit us here soon. Worked in P.M. changed formalin on all bats. Mrs. Spiller sent home some cake for us. Boys tried to spear small shark--first I've seen. Drowned 2 big Goanas for Geoff. Ants swarming. Filled 2 bottles. Party back after dark--soaked and panting for rum. Monday 13 April Nothing in traps. Rained most of night. Rats squeaking in the thatch early A.M. Runner in from Baniara in P.M. with mail (2 letters from Mother Mar(24 & 31); 1 from Dory; Carlos Lehman; & Avice Dickinson in N. Z. ). Rained in A.M. so checked skulls and worked on Ken's mountain Possum. Ken walked down to Baniara to check again on Gov. aid in getting carriers. All o.k. Also gun permits for boys. Set traps around Rest House. David and I went out at 3 P.M. to look in limestone ridge for bat hangouts--found nothing except rough walking, a Gecko and a wild giant sweet pea--wonderful fragrance. Shot one bat front of Rest House. Spent a couple of hours jacking around the coconut plantation. A few flying foxes about but did not see any. Dinner: pea soup, beef rissoles, mashed potatoes, squash, fried cooking banana, compote of fresh fruit, cake with rum and milk sauce. Not starving! "Ruru" may go to Goodenough Is. this week. Will drop Geoff, Ken and me at Dabora for another visit to bat caves. Girls wear several grass skirts--when it rains they hoist 1 or more up over shoulders. We are starting to plan our move up Mt. Maneao. No carrier load can be over 40 lbs. Top camp first for one month. Only essential equipment can go. Boys were drumming again tonight. Last one in bed, so it is my job to take off the "bug jar" from underneath the Coleman kerosene lamp. All news from home good!

Tuesday 14 April 1953 Menapi. Rain all A.M. 2 specimens in traps. Made them up and puttered about most of day. Ken gave 6 of the boys practice with shotguns. None of them can shoot except David. Len is planning top camp on Maneao and we all spent P.M. segregating material. Porter loads are to be about 35 lbs. So far I have 2 coll. boxes, 1 knock-down box (for specimens I hope to get), 2 swag bags with traps & tow, 1 ammo box & my personal clothes and bedding swag. No cots, tables or chairs on top. Plan to spend 1 month on top; 1 month at middle camp; 1 at low altitude; and 1 on coast. Then back to Samarai to re-outfit about middle of September. Menapi is not a very good collecting locality & things are getting slow. Most of flying foxes seem to have cleared out. Lucky we arrived when we did. "Ruru" leaves tomorrow about 8:30 A.M. Ken, Geoff & I & 15 boys going to Dabora for another visit to Tapitapipi Caves. Geoff is intrigued by the possibility of capturing a bottle-nosed snake in the cave. We walk home along coast. Ken, David & I out for bats at dusk but did not shoot any. Not a good bat night. David and I tried for flying squirrels-- saw 2 but could not collect. Traps in every corner of house tonight--no luck last night. Len had a nightmare: thought large rat bit his back, grabbed it by snout & yelled for me--woke up & found small beetle biting him! Isilele set new trap line today in rain forest N. of Rest House. Stars out for a while but raining again now. 80°F. Wednesday 15 April Menapi to Dabora. Bill Mason came over early to tell us that "Ruru" would leave at 7:00 A.M. for Goodenough Is. & would drop Geoff, Ken, myself and our 5 boys at Dabora for a few hours at Tapitapipi Caves. Engine missing but we got to Dabora o.k. Left our lunch at Rest House & climbed scarp to caves. No trouble finding them this time. Hill gave Geoff a bad time. Hope he can take Maneao. Have never seen anyone perspire like Geoff. Told boys I wanted only tiny bats this time--and how they went after them! We ended up with 174 bats of 5 species (126 alone of the small Miniopterus of which we coll. only 1 on first trip). Geoff's boys coll. spiders & insects. Trail very sloppy after 3 days of rain. Also visited main entrance. Large Dobsonia were hung up outside cave under big stalactites. All flew off into woods in bright sunlight. Very agile on wing. Had swim in ocean & then light lunch (tea, bread, banana). Started off for Menapi along beach trail alone since I wanted to watch birds. Saw fight between small lizard and spider. Coll. small snake in low grass at Banapa (new for coll.). Saw Patrick--asked him to try for Wallabies. Home at 4 P.M. (8 miles). Hot bath & shave. "Ruru" sailed home. Spent night pickling bats in formalin. Brings total to 385. Geoff did not find bottle-nosed snake in cave !(per Cruttwell's letter) Thursday 16 April Menapi. Threatening dark clouds in A.M. with a few drops of rain. Cleared & SE Trades began in P.M. Had all my skins out drying. Unpinned almost all. Caught small reddish rat in kitchen last night. 2 rats in trap lines. David jacked but found nothing. Government boat in today with Asst. District Officer. He came down from Samarai to see that all was well & to offer any aid possible. Much interested in our specimens. Boat returned to Baniara. Another Gov. boat seen going in to B.-- may have forest officer & Dutch botanist on board. Coming to visit us & study Len's botanical specimens technique. F. Off. may accompany us up Mt. Maneao. Ken pitched one of our good tents for their use. Boys and I spent all day skinning & making up bats & rats. Boys were skinning bats (small) for 1st time & they did a good job. Capt. Smith went by in his boat twice today but did not stop in at Menapi. Ken went down to look over "Ruru's engine--o.k. now.

Thursday 16 April 1953 (cont) Bill Mason going to Samarai soon. Had the young Q social set at my elbows while unpinning specimens. Young boys stop by at every chance. Food continues good with plenty of fresh fruit. Kim baked excellent bread today. David shot 1 bat on wing tonight—only head and 1 wing left (Scoteinus) Wrote up specimen notebook tonight. No jacking. Friday 17 April Menapi. Boys brought in 2 Melomys & a Rattus. Spent A.M. making up bats & day's catch. Another perfect day for drying. Ken fixed one of knock-down boxes & after I dried skins in heat of tent packed them for shipment. 116 study skins & skulls exclusive of bats in formalin. Total 393. Dutch botanist Dr. R. Hoogland, arrived by foot from Baniara. Same chap we met on plane—Brisbane to Port Moresby. He watched Len make up his specimens. Dennis Lamb dropped in to see our work and stayed for lunch. Has boat & trading post over near Cape Frere. Collected small bat with my first shot (Scoteinus). Billy and Niko brought in a small Cuscus. David and boys went up to rain forest near Banapa. No luck. David and I out jacking in scrub up hill from mission. Saw nothing except small bats over streamed. Shot yell. naped fruit bat near camp. Trades blowing hard tonight. Len had a beer party tonight before supper—Ken became very talkative & kept asking "Ru" Hoogland about situation in Indonesia. Back to normal with many Dutch still on Islands. Going to sleep in my chair. New moon tonight. Saturday 18 April Menapi. Worked on specimens in A.M. Ken & Jimmy put in screw caulks on my mountain boots. In P.M. worked on preserved bats—tagging with metal numbers. High wind all day kicking up sea which breaks on coral reefs. "Betty Ann"— Bunting's boat came in at dusk with local mail from Samarai & our supplies for next few months. No bats tonight. David & Lik Lik went jacking early & brought home 2 small Cuscuses. One had tiny pouch young. Could not have been in pouch more than few hours—still unattached. Hung them in shed with door closed. Dog got in & jumped up & dragged one down & away. Could find no trace of body. Dogs are cringing scavengers here in Papua. Small, prick-eared, short- haired. Rumors of wild dogs in mountains. Wrote Dr. Tate reporting on first month's work. Had 400 specimens this A.M. Geoff opened up an Army ration box and we had baked beans with hot dogs for dinner—good! He also turned over several fresh-water prawns that his boys collected to us for an apetizer. Gave me some ration cans containing candy and jam. I wish I could weigh myself—have certainly gone under 190 ! Hoogland out botanizing with Len today. 11:00 P.M. and last in bed as usual. Boys are singing in their rest house. Breeze keeps us comfortable. Very few mosquito pests. Sunday 19 April Menapi. A busy day in spite of only a few specimens. Boys skinned out cuscus and I worked on skeleton—first I have saved. Also kept stomach & contents. Ru kept me company most of A.M. observing—and also the 1/2 dozen village girls who stop by whenever there is any activity. Spent P.M. packing up my 2 collecting trunks with gear for top camp. Also sorted out clothes & put with roll of bedding (swag)—weighed 36 lbs—a carrier load. Ken was busy sorting food. Bill Mason goes to Samarai tomorrow & is taking mail. (Wrote Kay & enclosed p.p. 65-78 of diary). Ailsa sent me out a bottle of passion fruit to keep me company among the rum drinkers. Ken had a new soccer ball bladder sent out &

Sunday 19 April 1953 (cont) boys were having an impromptu game under coconut trees. They love the game & are good with their bare feet. David went out at dusk again & found 2 more cuscuses in coconut grove west of town. ♀ still alive and in fighting mood. One pouch young--much older than one found in ♀ yesterday. Other a male. Dennis Lamb dropped in to say good-bye as did Bill. No jacking tonight. Wrote letters. Only Ru and I are still up. I enjoy him, but others don't give him much time. Len will be out again tomorrow. Ru went for walk towards Banapa in P.M. & wading on reef looking for a certain plant this A.M. Also a bird-watcher. Wish he were staying longer. Has worked with Tinbergen.McLaren-- our nearest neighbor -- brought me a watermelon today as a present. Surf on reef today. Monday 20 April Menapi. Lik Lik and Isilele busy all A.M. skinning cuscus apiece. David & I teamed well on 4 rodents. Finished putting metal tags on rest of Tapitapipi Cave bats. Brought my catalog completely up to date. Ken & Geoff were busy most of day getting food supplies for camps under control--much weighing of swags. Ken had boy clean out kitchen--sorted out tomato & potato piles. Found cooks were starting to take drinking water from brook rather than rain tank at Mission. All of us have had slight digestive upsets. Shot 2 bats tonight: Miniopterus in front of Rest House & Scotineinus over banana trees in back of house. Boys out jacking in coconuts--David brought in 2 flying squirrels. Len and Ru out past Banapa this A.M.--a long morning but collecting not so good. "Ruru" sailed in A.M. but did not get early start. Took all of our mail. Shot some pictures of boys working. Poor light(50) F 4.5 at 1/25. Wind died completely today--trying to rain tonight. Lack of wind is a relief but as a result it is rather warm and sticky. Had a split pea (dried) debate at table tonight. Ken cooked some peas with pressure cooker (Len has no use for it) & cook soaked & boiled another batch-- still hard. Pr. cooked peas (20 min) not much better. Len insisted his had better flavor. G & I wanted no part of either. Tuesday 21 April Menapi. Another long day. Found a Bandicoot in my grass trap line. Fly-blown so made formalin solution to hold skin & kill eggs. Worked very well. Billy brought in a small Bandicoot that they caught in grass. David caught another short-tailed grass rat. Made up all skins (2 gliders--2 bats--2 bandicoots-- 1 rat) Jack Peters--Medical asst. at Baniara came in at mid-day from his peninsula walkabout--on way home from Dabora. From Brisbane--very pleasant-- interested in my work. Seems to know native health problems & cures. Morning & afternoon clinics. Natives come from all over. Stayed for dinner. More ration cans. Spag. & meat balls, hamburgers & delicious gravy. Opened a candy & cracker tin, also a jam, cookie & crackers tin. Sol. coffee (very poor) sugar & pwd. milk in each can. David jacking east of Menapi shot another cuscus (w.2 tiny pouch yg.--attached). I shot a Dobsonia & small yellow-mantled Pteropus. More foxes about tonight than for 2 weeks. Very still tonight. No wind. Few drops of rain in A.M. It was clear today & we could see mainland mountains. Ken & I had a chat tonight after others went to bed about native ways & thinking. Patrick here today. No wallabies but promises to go out again. Ken & David may go out to big scrub N. of here tomorrow P.M. Jack at night, camp out, put traps down & return to Menapi Thurs A.M. No luck shooting small bats today. First month (31 days) of trapping ended today. Total of specimens = 417 --a lot of work. Don't expect to keep up this average(will not find bat caves each month).

Wednesday 22 April 1953 Mother's birthday. Menapi. Nothing in traps except a Bandicoot in my grass line. Boys skinned 2 foxes and cuscus. Visited my trap line again tonight & had another Bandicoot! SE blew most of day but some light rain coming off bay tonight. Ken and David were to have gone off for the night to tall rain forest several miles back (N) from coast, but David refused to go & since the native is never right if he disobeys an order out here in N. G. (no matter what his reasons may be), he was paid off. Len refused, of course, to hire him (he is Ken's personal boy). If he wants to continue working for us, he must make up with Ken. Thus the white man saves face. He has been working hard and faithfully & with initiative for me. We were blending into a good team. Ken is very fond of him--they have been together 5 years--so I hope that matters work out. Possibly his being #1 boy in the team went to his head. He has been reluctant to pitch in on extra camp work on occasion. Ken took Jimmy with him, 30 traps & a shotgun & jack-light. Hope they have luck. Boys singing for all they're worth tonight--sound happy. More Army rations tonight: noodles & meat balls with gravy; hash & lima beans; jam; cocoa; pears; applesauce; pineapple. The meats are never to the British taste; they would rather have corned beef out of cans! They really like it. You simply can't change a person's food tastes. The boys can't live without boiled rice. No jacking. Early to bed after a hot bath. Thursday 23 April Menapi. My Bandicoot was the only specimen today. The best news is the fact that David is back in the fold. He and Ken are on the old friendly terms again. Both of them plus Jimmy went back to the big scrub today jacking. Just home (10 PM.) with 1 Glider & they tell me a cuscus is hung up in a tree (will get it tomorrow); also a [illegible] 1. jaw of a large Bandicoot (pick-up). Threatened rain in late P.M. but night turned clear with quarter moon. Made up skin & brought out 50 skins on boards to dry. Unpinned a few. Repacked all my gear for top, middle and lower camps. 2 top camp boxes weigh 70 lbs each. Started wrapping dried specimens in pages of the Sat. Eve. Post. Nap before dinner. Inspected traps after dark. Isilele came in this P.M. with 11 small bats. He had raided the same small hole in coconut tree where they found bats previously. Can hear small bats flying outside. Maybe I'll have a go at them. Surf breaking far out at reef edge tonight--low tide. Friday 24 April Lik Lik & Isilele set out 50 more grass traps. Menapi. The village dancers returned Ken's feast of a week or so ago. Tonight they gathered in front of our rest house and sang and danced for at least 2 hrs. All dressed up in feathers, flowers & grass plumes. Wore tapa "cloth"(bark) loin strips. Dances tell stories. The end came when Ken made a speech in their language thanking them for their kindness. A spokesman responded. This has been a friendly people & village. The "Betty Ann" showed up unexpectedly this A.M. Sent David down to find out about their sailing time--2 P.M. Finished work & wrote notes to Kay & Mother. No boxes ready for Samarai so we will have to ship by next boat. The series of Scoteinus was very interesting-- embryos of all sizes & 2 young born recently. Ken hiked to Abuaro in P.M. & he & Jimmy jacked back. They brought in a young male cuscus of the large white species. David and Isilele were out beyond Banapa--1 Petaurus. Sigimotu & I went to gully in back of camp. Shot a Dobsonia in flight with dust. S. found a small snake--took back to Geoff. Packed rodents in pages from Sat. Eve. Post Have 1/2 box now. Found a good bat flyway back of camp at edge of forest. Did not get any--can't see them soon enough. Dennis came along in P.M. & taught me a few more words. Analyzed my records to date (have also added Apr. 25)--

Friday 24 April 1953 (cont) --447 specimens--50 marsupials, 69 rodents, 328 bats (48 of them made up)-- 164 skins & skulls--all the rest are in formalin. (25th is end of 5th week). Av. of 90 per week--but this will go down when I run out of bats! Saturday 25 April Anzac Day Menapi. David set 12 steel and 6 rat traps--all water sets. River w. of Menapi. Isilele brought in a large Bandicoot from his new grass line--this is only our 2nd. Taught Ken how to skin Petaurus--would make a good skinner with practice. He has shot & skinned crocs for a living. He may have a chance to collect at base camp while we are at top & middle camps. Will give him a few supplies. Wind blew a gale early this A.M. & sure was starting to pound. However, wind died and swung into SE--fair all day. Dried specimens in P.M. and wrapped flying fox skins. Will probably have 1 knock-down box and 1 exp. box of specimens to send back to Samarei. Boys were to have played town boys at soccer this P.M., but the local Sat. P.M. quiet rule put this game off until tomorrow. So they had an impromptu game among the coconut trees. They really have fun & of course they play bare-footed. Geoff was playing goalie. Small boys were helping me hold paper while I was wrapping specimens. Gave them a few life-savers & just at this time the young Q set gathered round & wanted "lollies" too. They all get a kick out of my repeating the animal names in the local language--Gapapaiwa. Peter O'Sullivan walked in from Baniara today. Stayed for lunch & dinner & will spend night. He and Ken are bending our ears with Papuan stories and experiences. Boys were issued new lava-lavas today--red and white with monkeys in trees! All lined up with their badge of trade--foxes, snakes & flowers. Ken had a bl.& wh. film to take each boy's picture. We are going to send film to "Dusty" to develop and then return. They will have a long wait for our color pictures. No jacking. Early to bed. No bats shot. Sunday 26 April Menapi. Nothing in David's traps but Lik Lik had 2 good rats & Isilele had another large Bandicoot. David had nothing jacking. Ken skinned out a rat-- did a fair job and much better on measuring. Dried specimens again & wrapped a few. 6 more cuscus skins nearly dry. Went in ocean for a swim today with Ru. Very refreshing. Out for bats tonight--shot with 2 aux barrels in gun--fire one, bat circles & you get it with 2nd shot. Fell down in dead leaves. Came back after dinner & searched for 1/2 hr. Will get boys out in A.M. & give it another go. A quiet day. Boys had day off after running trap lines. They slept late and played a little soccer late in day. The usual Sunday A.M. Q audience while Ken and I were skinning. Timothy from Dabora stopped by today and I asked him to spread the word that we were offering 1 Pound per Wallaby. Would like one from Cape Vogel area. Ken had a brainstorm about our jack lights today. When 5 batteries wear he puts a 6th battery in series so that proper voltage is restored. Gives longer life. Beautiful moonlight night with soft wind. We have a Frangipani tree out back and it is just coming into bloom (native to Mexico)--a very lovely odor. Have a blossom over my ear now. Talking over details tonight for our next move towards Mt. Maneao. Monday 27 April Menapi. 10:00 P.M. I wish you could picture me sitting in my comfortable canvas chair under the thatch roof of our house on stilts. Have just come in from jacking and have had my shower. Very cool in a T-shirt & a gentle sea breeze in the palms. Almost a full moon tonight. Everyone is in bed except Ken--

Monday 27 April 1953 (cont) --out jacking; it is very peaceful. I followed up the creek bed tonight to do some still hunting. Found a cuscus but only wounded it. Fell on steep hillside. Got our boys to help search but he must have scrambled away. Boys searched all morning for bat I shot last night--no luck. Ken measured and skinned again this A.M. Geoff came out to skinning fly and we all had a pleasant morning. "Ru" brought a supply of candy bars with him and he is good enough to share them with me. Good! A native friend of mine from Dabora stopped by this P.M. Gave me 5 oranges for a present. I returned by giving him 2 sticks of trade tobacco and a pkg. of life savers, to his small children. Unpinned more specimens and packed them. Good fresh-baked bread today, and plenty of jam. David shot a "flying squirrel" at 1:00 A.M. 2 rats and a Melomys ended our catch for the day. Tuesday 28 April Menapi. Word has come by radiogram that the "Ruru" has been repaired and will be home this Sunday. We could leave for Baiawa next Monday. B. is our jumping off point for Maneao. Father Chisholm returned today after a walkabout up into the hills. Finally found my bat (or at least the blow flies found it) Nothing new--Miniopeterus. Another Bandicoot in my traps. Dennis caught a rat in his house. Boys brought in 2 Melomys. Repacked all ammo boxes for various camps. David out jacking early A.M.--nothing. He & Isilele looked all morning for the cuscus but could not find. Lik Lik helped skin. Packed a few more foxes this P.M. Will run the drying oven tomorrow to see if I can get skins ready for Samarai. Skulls dry. Will also have to wrap and repack all bats in formalin. Have been trying out orange juice powder (dehydrated)-- not very good. Molly Spiller sent up a batch of her wonderful cupcakes today. We had them for A.M. & P.M. tea. Will have 2 empty ammo cases to pack skulls in. David and I were wing-shooting for bats but we were not on the beam to- night. Len had boys bring in several staghorn ferns today for Ailsa. Fern is very large and quite decorative. Fair all day. Full moon. Wednesday 29 April Menapi. A beautiful moon shining over Goodenough Bay, the village dancers all dressed up in feathers, grasses, flowers and tapa cloths. At least 20 drums-- and a number of new dances. Small boys and girls and many others sitting around. Everyone happy. This was their farewell to us. Len made a fine speech which was translated by the village policeman. Hard rain after lunch. Rigged up drying shed for my specimens. Did a good job of drying. All skulls dry and ready to pack. David shot a cuscus in scrub back of Mission and a flying fox in camp. A Mus, small Rattus, short-tailed Rattus and Melomys. No jacking tonight. Losima caught small red Rattus in boys' house. Conflicting news about arrival of our boat. May be here tomorrow or Friday. McLaren brought me a watermelon today & village people gave us pineapples, paw-paws and bananas. After dance, 5 of boys with guitars played a few songs and sang. Raining again--Ken has just come in--too wet for his hammock. Traps come in tomorrow. Thursday 30 April Menapi.

Thursday 30 April 1953 Menapi, Papua. It seems so natural to write this name now. We are quite at home. Today another radio that Bunting's boat "Jessie" would not arrive until Monday. This after having all traps brought in. Put in a long day while everyone else had a half day off--they have all stopped collecting, but mammal work goes on. 3 species of Rattus plus 1 Melomys this A.M. to skin. Dried skins in oven and wrapped a few. Packed one box of skulls -- dried others. Will work on formalin specimens tomorrow. Went jacking up stream in back of rest house. Quiet. A few flying foxes in trees with fruit. Did not go far--still hunted. Finally located a dark brown cuscus with 2 pouch young (each 9 inches long). 12 G. #6 no trouble finding this one. Measured and made catalogue entries. Friday 1 May. Jacked for half hour in coconut grove--fired once at glider-- no luck. Menapi. Good weather again after a very heavy shower during the early A.M. Trades blowing and moon is up. Just like a vacation today. No traps to run. Skinned cuscus in front of an audience of village people. Ken watched and I showed Isilele how to skin out feet again. Air dried skins today while I wrapped formalin specimens. This took most of P.M. with Ken helping. Ru said good-bye today. Off for Baniara where he will wait for boat for Samurai. Len walked down with him. Spending night at Government station. We are eating the fruit that the villagers gave us. Kim makes a wonderful dish of diced fruit. We had baked beans and meat patties and gravy (Army rations) tonight. Have oven on tonight. Specimens drying slowly. Tomorrow should see me packed. No further boat news. Ru gave me a copy of Police "Motu". This is the 2nd language for Papuans. All sections have their local dialect- Menapi's is "Gapapaiwa" Have finally mastered their name for flying fox--tongue twister--"Gwiririka". Have found skull labels showing spots of corrosion. Putting in paper tags as insurance. Ken gives me a running lesson of Aussie slang. Shot black and white film of Ken's in Geoff's camera. I took individual pictures and groups. Ken wants to send them to Samarai for Dusty to develop. We should have brought a Polaroid camera with us--1 minute to get dry picture. Saturday 2 May Menapi. Slept late this A.M. --7:00 ! No traps to run. Len spent night at Baniara. Dried and packed specimens most of day. Len brought back 4 gal. can for all of my wet specimens. These are first wrapped and tied up in gauze, then put in plastic bag and several of these put in large bag. P.O. at Baniara, Peter O'Sullivan, sent me 2 flying foxes from the island (once called Mosquito Island). Came back and forth to mainland. All bats and marsupial pouch young plus flying fish and 2 birds fitted into can. Ken will solder it up tomorrow. Cuscus I collected Apr. 30 was very fatty so scrapped clean & put more alum and ars. on. Will have to check all other cuscus skins. 2 small boys showed up at dusk with 2 small bats--gave each 2 crackers. Bats found in village house. Shot 1 bat (same species). Out jacking in coconut grove near rest house tonight. Coll. 1 flying squirrel. Losima was with me and pounced on the glider like a hawk. He is a fine boy and he wants to go jacking for cuscus with me. He is always the first up (5:15) to make kitchen fire. Keyloaded Geoff's camera with bl & wh film. Took pictures of his friend the native medical asst., his wife and a few of the Papuan girls. I picked out Army rations for dinner. We had oyster stew, vegetable soup, baked beans & frankfurters, beef stew, squash & potato & a huge bowl of diced fresh fruit, and bread and jam. (Some mail today. #7 from Key in Bermuda Apr 11 and I written Apr. 5. Also a good news letter from Mother Apr 13) Losima just came running in with new tree frog & Billy with a mouse!

Sunday 3 May 1953 Menapi. Today saw the end of my specimen packing but not without incident. A noise in the drying shed at 5 A.M. woke Ken and he found a dog inside chewing on my 2 last cuscus skins. The heads & feet had been eaten leaving the body skins. Specimens were dry & covered with alum & arsenic--there is a sick or dead dog in Menapi tonight. Also ate the dry horn bill foot! Skins were hanging near roof & door was tied shut. These Papuan dogs are a hungry & persistent lot. Did not touch my small study skins of the last few collecting days. Made up 1 bat and the glider. 2 bats & 1 Mus. into formalin. Skulls all fitted into 2 ammo boxes, alcohols into 1 4-gal. can; and small skins into black box; large, knock-down box. All set except nailing tight. The "Jessie" came in a day early--late in P.M. We load tomorrow & sail early Tuesday. Mrs. Spiller invited us to dinner to welcome Bill Mason home. Norman Evennett, part owner and skipper of the "Jessie" and a friend, Chapman, were there also. Ginger beer! Jello & ice cream! Home at 9:30. Letter from Ailsa and Dusty to Geoff with a P.S. to me saying they are sending chocolate candy. Scraped all cuscus skins to remove oil. We gave our cook & helper a day off. Geoff fried eggs--our first in Menapi. Washed dishes--first time in 3 mos. Moon just up. Fresh breeze tonight. No jacking. Total mammals for this camp--479. Will carry bat and squirrel on to Baiawa with me. Ken has fallen in love with native Papuan girl. This country is his life. Monday 4 May Menapi. A day of rest for me--our last in Menapi. Ken up early to nail up my specimen boxes. They went on board the "Jessie" first. Len, Geoff, & Ken checked gear from storehouse to boat. (Wrote letters to Kay, Mother, Dory, Uncle Will, Miss Grobe, Mr. Goodwin, Dr. Mayr, Perry Wilson, Gary Harned). We have a big stack of mail going back to Bunting's in Samarai. Our interpreter arrived from Baniara. Wears a distinctive black open shirt margin ed with red & white; white cummerbund, broad leather belt & black shorts. Losima caught another small rat--my specimen for the day. After Kai we were invited to tea and an evening of music & dancing--at Mrs. Spiller's. She arranged for several of the village boys who play guitars & mandolins to come in to entertain us with New Guinea songs. Two men & two women did the dancing. The men wore grass skirts, too. After a while both songs & dancing became tire- some but the audience was fascinating. The only place for dancing here in Papua is on the beach under the moon. Every window & door had its quota of men, women, & children looking on. Some were inside on the stairs leading to 2nd floor-- all females in grass skirts. Some wear 6 or more skirts--the dress ones dyed in vertical stripes--green, red, purple--& often white pandanus strips. Skirts smell very fresh. Father Chisholm was there for a visit. He is well-liked by the people here (he is an Anglican--St. Stephens--London). We had delicious cake, tarts, tea, & ginger beer for me. Other villagers had started a drum dance which was still going strong when I first woke at 3 A.M. Quite an unusual evening. Tuesday. 5 May Menapi to Baiawa. Up at 3:45 A.M. Drums still going down in village. Rolled swags. Folded stretchers. Boys out early to carry gear to boat. Moon is high with halo. Villagers straggling by--a guitar or two playing. It is just 6:00 & the jagged blue outline of the central range is outlined against a pink morning sky. Little blue & white flycatcher (wagtail) is squeaking away. Boys coming down trail with their swags. "Jessie's" dory is loading our gear. 6:30--our last boys coming

Tuesday 5 May 1953 (cont) off now--singing. They all stand or sit on the gunwales of the dory. 6:45 Departed. Maneao clear on horizon. We have to round Cape Vogel today and run up to the head of Collingwood Bay. Goodenough Is. looming 9000 ft. straight out of the sea. Changed course to round Cape at 8:30. We have 2 sails set to help our 6 knot engine along. Now in Ward Hunt Strait. 9:00 A.M. Tea and sandwiches and cake which Molly sent down this morning. Everyone is sprawled out on the decks catching up on sleep. From noon to one we dodged in and out of reefs and sandbanks about mile or two off shore. Waters poorly charted. One man up the mast as look-out. About 30 on board. Maneao and Goropu are looming up ahead. We get to Baiawa about 4:30. Change of plan. We are picking our way in thru the reef to village of Medino. . Arrived at 3:30. Anchored off mouth of small river. Went ashore for a walk. Later after dinner on the boat I went ashore jacking with Isilele and Lik Lik. I shot the largest bandicoot I've ever seen. We had to trail him for short distance in grass. Spotted the red eyes of a crocodile at entrance of river. Ken shot him from close up with #6 but he dived under dinghy. Slept on board. Very cool & comfortable. Put my cot on the hatch. Wednesday 6 May-Baiawa. at NW base of Cape Vogel Peninsula. Wed. A.M. Skinned Bandicoot. Coming into Baiawa 9:30. This is a seldom visited coast. (Dont Look FOR MAIL FOR QUITE A WHILE. WE don't Know when we CAN send it out by RUNNER) Left Medino at 7:30 A.M.--felt our way out thru reef again without mishap. Arrived off Baiawa after another session with reefs. No sea or swell running. Good sun to pick out water colors. Village has an opening cut thru mangroves so they can canoe in and out. Also a 100 yard jetty (home made and narrow-- bound together with vines). We held our breaths when boys loaded the outriggers with our heavy gear--tip easily. They had trouble locating my 2 coll. boxes in hold before we left Medino. Found them and I skinned out big Bandicoot. Very fat and a lot of skin muscle. Trimmed him & poisoned. Finished making him up in P.M. before audience of carriers. The rest house is up on a knob of a hill about 100 ft. above village. Reserve gear to be stored here in rest house. Rain came soon after 5 P.M.--rained heavily during dinner. Still raining at 9:00. No jacking for Wallaby tonight. Ken has been having carrier trouble all day. They receive tobacco which they trade for Betel nut. The nut is available at Biniguni--our inland base. We have carriers for 35 loads--3 villages represented. Hope it clears tomorrow. Ken will leave for Biniguni with first loads. I am becoming very helicopter- minded. Then we wouldn't have to depend on small boats, carriers, etc. We could visit many in between places. One of our last nights on cots. Will not carry inland. Thursday 7 May Baiawa. Good sleep. No traps to run. Len and Ken off early to "Jessie" to check off cargo for first carry to Biniguni. Carriers all in line again today. Eliminated a few more items from personal gear to go up mountain. Chapman and Evennett came in with Len for breakfast and to say good-bye. "Jessie" will make Menapi tonight--we hope without mishap on the coral reefs. We all checked our loads to go thru to Biniguni with us. Will need 26 carriers. Jimmy came back from Kwagira with note from Ken. Staying at K, tonight--to Biniguni tomorrow. Looks as if we will have a couple of days more here in Baiawa. Geoff, Len & I walked out on the hilly east coast trail in P.M. (I was also out there before breakfast). Wallaby tracks & droppings. Runways all thru grass-

[illegible]

Thursday 7 May 1953 (cont) lands. Heard none. Track goes thru some rain F. Len had good collecting. Shower at 4:00. Summit of Maneao now clear (5:30). Going out for Wallaby soon and jacking tonight. As I write in the doorway of rest house, I can look down on the tiny village--1/2 dozen thatch huts and 4 copra drying platforms. Also a native mission hut. Pigs, dogs, & children playing & prowling around. Kim has just finished making bread. Out from 6 to 7 P.M.--heard 2 Wallaby-- did not see. Couple of shots at bats--no luck. Home. Good dinner of veg. soup, squash, white potatoes & apricot mash & a cup of Nestle's coffee. David and Lik Lik went out together and Losima out with me 8 to 10:30. Wallabies in grass all around but never saw even an eye. Signal by thumping feet on ground. Also jacked thru rain forest--again no eyes. Heard tube- nosed bat. Foxes feeding in high trees. Disappointing evening for all. Friday 8 May Baiawa. Fine sleep. Did not get up until almost 7:00. No traps. Nothing to skin. Working trap swag out; strung up, adjusted and divided up traps for tonight. Will put out 30. 1/3 in rain forest and 2/3 in grass. Maneao clouded up (11:00). Sea breeze from the north. My boys out scouting this A.M. Len sorting out his plants. Jimmy now working for Geoff. Geoff out collecting. I am the man of leisure this A.M. for a change. Fire for cooking smoldered thru dirt base & charred up kitchen floor. Kim has rebuilt hearth. Put my traps out about mid-afternoon. Back at 4 P.M. just as it started to shower. Out at 5:30 but another shower soon drove me home. Word came in by runner from Biniguni that Ken had arrived with carriers safely--all loads o.k. Had trouble persuading men to go on from Kwagira. However, all ended well. Carriers are now supposed to return & start out with us at daybreak Tuesday. 8:00 P.M. and raining again--guess there will be no jacking tonight. I joined Len and Geoff at rum before dinner tonight--but I took my few drops in a table- spoonful of sugar. They don't approve of my drinking habits! Asparagus soup with croutons, curried beef on rice, squash & white potatoes, chutney--desert plums. Geoff shot a 4 ft brown snake with black head--in rain forest this P.M. Quite proud of it. Len got another good collection of grassland plants. Several hornbills flew over. Many small birds alight on top fronds on coconut trees. Saw high tight flocks of parrots (?) moving inland (SE) at dusk. Saw same species come over in A.M. one day. Many moths coming to light trap tonight. Native came to boys' house this A.M. with betel nuts to trade. They are all singing tonight. Saturday 9 May Baiawa Maneao beautifully clear early in A.M. Shaved and sent boys out for walkabout with guns--hoping for Wallaby, of course. Started up the Kwagira track at 9:00 A.M. Coconuts end a few hundred yds. SW of town and after track goes thru small patch of rain forest, it comes out in savannah grassland. From grassy knolls you can see whole sweep of Maneao and Moi Biri Bay. Signs of Wallabies everywhere. Saw 1 (75 yds) on way home. [CRISIS WHEN I REACHED CAMP: LEN HAD RECEIVED RADIO FROM DR.CARVER SAYING THAT MARIE WAS VERY ILL. David had a fine day! He came in this A.M. with small grey Cuscus. Then in P.M. he shot our first Wallaby (where I walked in A.M.) I skinned Wallaby in front of audiende of boys. One was very helpful & quick. Later village men came up & waited for me to finish. They made fire & threw the body, tail and testicles on to to roast. It didn't cook long--they chopped it up with a bush knife & either wolfed it or took it home. Early tonight David came in with a second Wallaby-- this a young male! Everyone very quiet tonight. Drizzling. No jacking. Good moth and beetle night.

[illegible]

Sunday 10 May 1953 Baiawa. A beautiful day. 72° at 6:30 A.M. Brought in traps. No catch. Boy from village brought me a grass rat--our only rodent here. Lik Lik skinned small ♂ Wallaby while Isilele did the feet of first large male. David brought another large reddish ♂ in before noon. He is a good persistent hunter. 3 boys skinned Wallaby in P.M. I cleaned skulls & they smoke-dried very well over kitchen fire. Late in P.M. a native from N. slope of Maneau brought me 7 near perfect lower jaws of Wallaby. Bought for 2 large biscuits. Town--Takwa-Takwa. Watched Len put up botanical specimens for an hour or so. He is pickling today's collection. Will do some botanical work on mountain if Len is called to New York. Maneao was clear at sunset. Took picture 1/5 at F 8 but this speed setting sticks. 1/10 is o.k. but can use nothing slower. We expect tomorrow to be our last day here and will spend time packing and getting carrier loads ready for an early Tuesday start. Kim squeezed a couple of bottles of orange juice for me today. Very good. David gave me a haircut today with the clippers and comb and sci.--he does a very good job and I feel quite respectable to- night. Gave him an Army ration can of jam and some Army crackers for his trouble. It is only 9 P.M. and Len is in bed and Geoff is ready too. No jacking tonight so I guess I'll turn in too. We all live in our own little worlds. Conversation is always an effort when all three are together. We go for minutes at a time without words. We all have our note books, diaries, and letters to work on most of the time however. Will be glad to see Ken again. Things will liven up. Monday 11 May Baiawa Another beautiful day. Took picture of mts. on Cape Nelson and the Boropu complex. Also several in village showing canoe making. Finished drying skulls. Leaving 3 Wallabies (& 7 mandibles), 1 bat, 1 rat, 1 cuscus, 1 bandicoot, 1 Petaurus here in napthalene drum. As Also 3 skins: 1 Petaurus, 1 Cuscus and 1 bat. Taking 5 skins on to Biniguni to dry (3 Wall. 1 ban. 1 rat). Kwagipa police boy came in from his town today. Quite a number of our loads were moved today by canoe across Moi Biri Bay to Kwagira track landing on Moi Biri Creek. One of my collecting boxes and a box full of trade tobacco were spilled into the drink. They were being loaded into the canoes which tip very easily. Only real casualty was a bar of candy which became so damp I had to eat it. Dried tobacco over Coleman light. Still drying tow. A few clothes wet too. We were listing and moving stuff all day. Geoff has to leave his typewriter here. He is feeling lost. Trying to check Wallaby genus. Seems to be a Proteomodon. Do not know if this is supposed to live on north coast. Groove on I5 is right. Skin has white hip stripe and white stripe (wide) under each eye. Canoe boys back (David went with them) and report all cargo safely landed. We will be up at 4 A.M. and hope to leave Baiawa by canoe at 6. Hope to get thru to Biniguni if Ken has carriers at Kwagira. Baiawa men will go no further. Losima fixed green cocnut for me. Milk is refreshing but a little astringent. Meat is thin & soft but good flavor. Will be glad to be on the mountain. Bed at 9:30 Tuesday 12 May Baiawa to Kwagira Alarm went off at 4:00 A.M. Rolled our swags for the mountain. Folded our cots for the last time and stored in rest house. Dawn very lovely--thin slice of moon & Venus over the grassy hills in back of rest house. Mts. clear & touched with rose glow. Cool. Breakfast at 5. Carriers up about 6 to take remaining boxes to outrigger canoes. Safely landed this time. Left about 6:30 and set out for head of Moi Biri Bay (to west). All mts. standing out

Tuesday 12 May 1953 (cont) Against horizon.. Morning light clear--took pictures of other canoes against mangroves and mts. Poled part way. Finally reached Moi Biri Creek at 7:30 and then spent about 3/4 hr poling along narrow channel lined with mangroves. Saw fair sized Python in branches. G. did not collect. After reaching landing "orderly" confusion for a few minutes before our motley collection of carriers from various villages (4 women also--carry in net bags) picked out loads and lashed heavy ones to poles. Then off on the muddy track thru wet lowland rain forest. Geoff and I left landing at 9 and arrived at Kwagira at 10:10 A.M. K. is located on bank of a beautiful fast running mt. fed stream--gray green water. Rest house small but comfortable--at one end of the rectangular village. Ground well swept and clean; however, the usual pigs and screamy dogs were about. Boys built New Guinea beds for us. Tied our swag cover thru eyes and put poles thru which in turn were lashed to cross braces--just like stretcher. Went for swim later in day. Cold & deep enough for a few strokes. K. policeman a fine type. Saw Areca Palm--betel nut growing for first time. Ken met us in village to pay off men. Down from Biniguni. Wednesday 13 May Kwagira to Biniguni. (104) Up at 5 A.M. Quick breakfast. Carriers picked up loads at 6:15. Cross creek just outside of town. Geoff and I took boots off and waded, but Len was light enough to be carried! Left at 6:30. Ken and I arrived at Biniguni at 9:30 We forded several swift mountain streams--lovely green water. Went in nearly to my hips once. Glad my wristwatch is waterproof. The trail tunneled thru rain forest. My impressions were a blurr of huge buttressed trees, ferns and palms & unknown bird songs. Track still muddy from rains of last week. Old man at K. gave me 4 small rats just before I left. Put them in formalin as soon as I reached B. At B. we are close in to the western spur of Maneau. Ridge cut by huge gorge--visible from B. Slopes are covered with thick rain forest. Passed thru 2 small villages late in walk. Much betel nut. There was a big conference in front of rest house soon after we arrived. Head men & policemen from all neighboring towns. Ken was trying to get enough carriers to make climb up Maneau. Leng talk about terms & number of men. K. then paid off Kwagira men & they left in P.M. Spent P.M. getting gear segregated for Len & Geoff who start up tomorrow with 8 carriers. Ken & I follow on Friday with main lot of gear. We should arrive at Top Camp Sat. P.M. We had a good feed of Crested Pigeon or Guara tonight--good soup first & then fine tasting white meat. No good water --only tea & coffee. I am dying for some good mt. water. Fair & all quiet tonight. Took a walk in P.M. to bath place--spout of water out of hillside. So hot when I returned that I took hot bath. Tonight is cool. We are sleeping on floor. To bed 9 P.M. Thursday 14 May (105) Biniguni. Len & Geoff left for Mt. Maneau at 7:15 A.M. 8 carrier loads with them--no collecting gear--only food, tents, flys & personal swags. The plan is for Ken & myself to start up tomorrow with main carrier party and arriving Top Camp same day as Len & Geoff. Villager brought in big female white cuscus at 4 P.M. Fat, with tender skin. Will have to take up mt. with me. About dusk the councillors lined up available carriers in front of rest house. Ken took down their names and village. Only 37 men & 3 women plus 5 councillors showed up ready to climb Maneau. We need 60-70 ! Ken & I put aside Len's collecting gear & essential food for this partial carry. Some towns sent no men & it is a big problem to know how & where to dig up more carriers.

[illegible]

Thursday 14 May 1953 (cont) (POLICE RUNNER ARRIVED AT 7:30 P.M. WITH CABLE FOR LEN FROM MARIE'S BROTHER, CONDITION SERIOUS BUT DOCTOR MAY BE ABLE TO CHECK AGAIN. TO KEEP LEN ADVISED) Ken and I decided to send up Len's gear--believe he will stay to collect on mt. Ken wrote note to Len for runner to carry up Maneau. Should pick them up fairly early on track. Another snake--short & thick, with trans- verse ventral markings came in this afternoon. (Police runner brought letter from Kay post marked Apr. 28, Montclair--written Apr 26 on "Ocean Monarch". Received in Samarai May 7). No collecting. Our police interpreter will go with carriers. Ken and I will wait for more carriers. No point in my going-- no collecting gear & I would be eating food meant for working party. Friday 15 May Biniguni. Runner with note to Len left at 6:50 A.M. (we learned later that he caught Len at 8 A.M.--fast going!) Everything double-loaded on poles except first aid kit, foralin, specimen can, lamp & clean clothes. Carriers do not like double loads on mt--only on flat, so I expect they will soon change all possible loads. 1 of Geoff's boxes also went up (#38). Ken and I have been waiting all day for further word on additional carriers. This P.M. I walked about 1 mile west to a big, clear, fast running mountain creek--wide gravel bed. No villages above. Close to Maneau ridge. Took pictures. One village councillor came with me, also 2 small boys & Isilele. Tall feather grass & large spikes of yellow flowers on banks. Had my first good drink of water for days. Brought Billy can of water home. A quiet hour or two. Man picked over heads of boys & Isilele took bath. Clouds over sun. Frank gave us a fresh fish from creek. Kim cooked it to perfection for dinner. Kept head in formalin for Museum collection. Bought (for 2 crackers) a bright yellow snake with lavender spots (may be young Pacific Boa) from a village boy. Cleaned skull of cuscus & boys cleaned feet. Ken and I spent night trying to decide on plans for A.M. (Wrote Kay. Sending 3 rolls of film to Flushing.) Fair all day. Saturday 16 May Biniguni. Fair. Another day of waiting and wondering if carriers would arrive. Runner returned from mountain with mail and messages. Len & Geoff reached 5000' yesterday P.M. & camped--both well. (Len has decided not to return to U.S. just yet). Thursday night L & G camped at the "Tea House" (a few poles & some roof leaves)--700 M. Good water there. None again until middle camp. Their carriers changed double loads to singles. Main carrier party had not caught up to them. We sent off the police runner to Baniara about noon-- 3 rolls of my film, letter to Kay; also Len's radiogram & some personal letters. Ken wrote to Bunting's for more rice & trade tobacco. Also to the Patrol Officer, Peter O'Sullivan, at Baniara advising him of the poor carrier situation here at Biniguni. A patrol visit may help us out. Ken also (later) sent Niko and Lik Lik down to Kwagira with a further message for O'Sullivan (runner spending night at Kwagira). In A.M. Ken had sent David & Kim to Wapona to get information on carriers. No helpful news. Brought rumors back that some man had died there due to sorcery on part of someone here in Biniguni. This was the news that Ken thought necessary to send to Peter. It may mix carrier situation up still more. About 4 P.M. we decided to plan to use our remaining boys & ourselves to pack some of my light collecting gear & food up the Mt. so I would not lose more time. Almost finished and 5 carriers walked in from village of Maneau. This is good news for me--will give me enough collecting gear to get a good start at Top Camp. A more cheerful camp tonight. Sunday 17 May

[illegible]

Sunday 17 May 1955 Biniguni--to first camp site on Mt. Maneau--1/4 mile beyond "tea House"--a rough shelter. This is where Len & Geoff camped last Thursday night. The poles for their shelter Fly are standing in a little clearing just off the trail (not very flat). I do not have fly & I hope the dry weather of the last few days holds tonight & tomorrow. Today has been perfect. My ground cloth is on a thin bed of tree fern fronds (and a tree fern arches over my bed) & my sleeping bag will feel good tonight. My net is rigged over all & tucked in under the cloth. Fine if it does not rain. Finished weighing gear this A.M. I have: Coll. box # 40; brown swag of traps, tow & bait; green swag of sawdust, alum & ars. naphthalene, jacklight, notebooks & a few clothes; my bedding & clothes swag. Kerosene & more rice with us as well as our own rations for 5 meals--10 men (7 carriers, Biniguni policemen, myself & David). Shaved & then left B. at 10:50 A.M. An easy level walk skirting the Maneau ridge (thru rain forest) brought us to a mountain creek--11:40 A.M. 100 yards down creek a small torrent falls down over rock ledges. We spelled until 12:25 P.M. Crisis--no matches. Had 3 in coll. trunk but it was all lashed up so did not tell them. All tried to make spark--some with vine running under split stick with tinder underneath others by rubbing one stick on another . No one succeeded. Up torrent bed at 12:25 but soon branched away--steep going (like steep part of Moosilauke). Spell 1 to 1:20. Between 2 creeks at 1:30. Over dry creek bed. Keeping to small ridges. Heavy rain forest. Occasional narrow views out to Collingwood Bay. Spell 2 to 2:15. Creek roaring off to left (E). Tea house at 2:30. Camp at 2:35. Total walking time 2 hr 25 min. All carriers o.k. David got water. I made lemonade. Found tree near trail on way up. 10 lbs rice & 3 tins of bully beef to boys. I have tea, sugar, cocoa, coffee, jam, bread & crackers. Made lot of smoke so Ken will know when and where we ar-e. Boys now collecting wood for night & making leaf beds--5 P.M. This is a possible 2 week collecting site 2 months from now. Will eat & go to bed early. Carriers now chewing betel nut & smoking & talking a mile a minute. Monday 18 May First camp site on Maneau to Top Camp. Up at 6 A.M. Did my swag up & had quick breakfast of bread, jam, tea, sugar & a few dried oatmeal flakes in tea. Carriers lingered over breakfast & we did not start out until 7:15. A perfect night--good sleep under stars and 1st quarter moon. Passed 3rd "tea house" at 7:50. Spell 8 to 8:15. First vines with sections--a climber--water in some sections. Now on first ridge--see to N & S. Spell 8:30 - 8:50. 9:15 passed Duon's carrier camp. Spell 9:45 filled billy can with water. Start 10:00 Arrived at Middle camp at 10:30 A.M. Met carrier party on way down to Biniguni. Had left Top Camp at 8 A.M. Duon staying up top. Carriers had long spell & ate lunch as did I. Middle camp in transition between oak & beech. This was supposed to be the 2nd night sleeping spot, but carriers & I all feeling strong so we decided to go on to Top camp. Left at 11:30. 12 noon spell. 12:05 start. Very light rain from clouds hanging in trees. 1:00 spell until 1:30. Reached bark shelter at 1:45. First Auracarias--big pine trees--rough bark & tufted-looking needle bunches. Out into open country--timber line--dead Auricarias and bracken fern at 2:10. Took several pictures of carriers in this background. Reached Top Camp 3 P.M. Elev. 7400 feet. David and I put out 90 traps. Delivered cable to Len (leaving for home within 2 weeks.) Tent and 2 flys up. Night cold and clear. Moon set over ridge 8:30. Fine water. Lovely camp site. All in good shape. Walking time--5 hours.

[illegible]

Tuesday 19 May 1953 Top Camp. 30° F. about 6:00 A.M. Frost on ground in patches. Spent rather a c-hill night in spite of ground cloth on wooden pata-pata (raised 3 feet off ground) blanket under sleeping bag & winter pajamas & wool socks & wool helmet. Just not used to get warm & to see the view. Goropu loomed high, clear & rugged to west. Great basin south of Maneau range swings in a giant horseshow (open end to west) about this basin. Highest point seems to be on other (s) arm of horseshoe. David had 4 rats. I had 4 rats & 1 Melomys--both new. 10 c/o of our trap set. Geoff and boys busy all A.M. & part of P.M. building frame for my tent (which Ken will bring up from Middle camp), cook house, outhouse, & wash stand. David & I went thru the specimens in good style. Len & 2 of his boys botanized to Maneau summit this A.M. (2700 M) Took bearings. Not too good for pictures. No natural grassland. Has all come in after mossy forest burned off by generations of wandering natives. Easy 2 hr climb from camp. David & I went out jacking at 7 P.M. I shot 1 cuscus in mossy forest in gulley next to camp. Very dark, small feet, white belly. Lovely clear night. Jacking warmed me up. Not so cold tonight. To bed at 8:30. Moon overhead. Kim came in with Lik-lik & Isilele & 10 carriers this A.M. Ken may be up tomorrow. Boys have barked in their fly to keep warm. Wednesday 20 May Top Camp I am writing these notes in my new bed! There are X ed sticks at head and foot. Two poles are lashed to these X---X and my ground cloth stretch between them-- like a stretcher. Sleeping in my winter pajamas, sweater & socks & in the sleeping bag. 3 more Rattus & 1 Melomys in traps. Lik-lik and Isilele did very good job on the possum. Ken arrived in camp with 10 carriers at about 11:00 A.M.--came from Middle camp. Brought my other trap swag & coll. box 39-- all set now for next 5 - 6 weeks up here (also ammo box). Put my end of the collecting fly in order. 2nd tent came up & Geoff had it rigged in P.M. Also built small shed for our Max. Min. thermometer. Ken is freezing. Haå had 11 years of warm living. Took in all my traps. Put 18 along brook in mossy forest 27 in grass. Lik-lik & Isilele have 25 each in grass. David has all of his in mossy forest. Clouds blew in at dinner time. Clear by 7:45. Lik-lik and I went jacking until nine. Nothing. Ken, dressed in a jungle suit & my parka hood & with a jack light, tied to gun barrel of his 22, went out looking for Wallaby. Isilele, wrapped in a blanket, went with him. No luck. Len is leaving on May 29th. Pigeon stew (Ken shot it this A.M.), rice, peas, beef rissoles & ham for dinner. Camp is really on a permanent basis now. Thursday 21 May Top Camp Another beautiful day--and night. Have just come in from jacking south along edge of the mossy forest. Goropu Range clearly visible in moonlight. Heard Wallaby 40-50 feet away in scrub. This A.M. we had 11 Rattus of 2 species in traps (V.D. 4; L.L. 2; I. 3; D. 2)--1 new species trapped in edge of scrub and out in grass. David, Niko and Ken cut trail to river 1500' below us, the south, Finally stopped by 300' drop to the river. Brought back some interesting plant specimens. Lik-lik and Isilele worked with me most of day on our specimens. A quiet day in camp. Boys were putting bark around the cook shed. Len worked close to camp collecting. Geoff had his light in the edge of the scrub-- nothing. He is disgusted with collecting up here. The important insects at this camp are all small & G. has had no experience with these--but he has four more weeks to learn. We are scheduled to leave here for Middle camp on June 22. 3 weeks at Middle camp; 2 weeks at Bottom & 6 weeks in and near Biniguni--then a week or so collecting on way back to Samarai, arriving there about 3rd week of September. Ken has just gone to bed with 4 shirts, 4 prs of socks, my parka hood, 3 blankets, & his jungle suit. 10 P.M. Hope I sleep warm too.

[illegible]

Friday 22 May 1953 Top Camp We all had a good warm sleep last night. Did not zip down the sleeping bag until 6:30 A.M. Clouds and sun have alternated in camp today. Trapped 3 Rattus & 1 Melomys; David--2 Rattus; Lik-lik--1 Rattus. All the boys were put to work on their shelter this A.M. If they won't help themselves, we have to see they do something to keep warm. All barked and brushed in, with doors & smoke holes over bark doors. Grass, ferns & bark under their blankets. Worked until about 3 P.M. Then Ken, Geoff & I & the boys went over the hill & into the mossy forest to cut a jacking trail--this ends at camp. I set 4 steel traps in a Wallaby pad--also put rat bodies between traps. Lovely cloud & sun effect over river gorge to south. The hoop pines make a fine sight against the clouds. 6 P.M. and we are all sitting down to a rum. I still have a few drops in a spoonful of sugar. Ken built a patta patta in my tent today for my mammal drying boards. An exciting jacking night. David & [illegible] out together. Ken and Lik-Lik. I shot a ring-tailed possum--new for the trip--a golden greenish tinge to gray back pelage. Ken shot a small ring-tail (# 4 - 12 Ga ! - in the tail end) brown, buff & white face markings--also new. The animal I thought was a ring-tail (coll. May 19) must be a cuscus. A month should give us a fair idea of what is here, but you never really work a place out. Saw small bat in forest tonight. Thought we heard a flying fox on the wing but not sure. Warm in forest. 10:30 P.M. Saturday 23 May Top Camp David and the 2 boys skinned the 2 possums and our catch of 6 rats. Kept up our average of 8 per day for this camp ( 40 to date). I made the small ring-tail up as a study skin. He shows a very interesting molt condition. Ken started up Maneau this A.M. to spot a possible path down to the big river in the gorge to the south of us. Back early feeling sick with sinus & cold. We plan to go out together tomorrow to try another route. Most of the boys were out chopping jacking trails in P.M. Delayed my outdoor bath too late and a cool wind made my wash a little chilly--but the hot water felt good. Kim bakes wonderful whole wheat rolls. With butter & golden syrup you can make a meal out of them. Out jacking with Lik-Lik tonight. I spotted a cuscus & gave him the shot. Either missed or it's still hanging in tree. Also fired at another pair of eyes in same tree (inside leaf tangle)--nothing fell. A beautiful bird-of-paradise visited tree at edge of camp. All black with 2 two foot tail feathers. Fed in full view for several minutes. Saw another bat in forest tonight. Must roost in tree holes. 10:15 P.M. a damp cold tonight. Our luck is still holding with the weather. Fair with only a few thin clouds today. Sunday 24 May Top Camp Ken and I, David, Jimmy & Niko decided to make another try to reach the river gorge south of camp. Ken was stopped last time by a drop of 300 feet into the gorge. Measured my specimens & turned them over to Lik Lik & Isilele to skin and prepare for filling when I return to camp. Left camp at 9:15 & cut down slope behind Maneau ridge. Up & down some steep gullies in scrub--water falling south. Out into small grass patch, thru another narrow scrub belt & then angled down a big open fern & grass field. At far corner we cut thru low scrub & followed down several dry stream beds until we reached the brink of last drop to Kwariu River. Down by the seat of our pants to a very lovely mountain brook in a narrow bed. Elev. 1840 M at 11:30 A.M. Cold clear swirling water. Several beautiful pools at spot we cut river. Moss covered rock ledges. The others "boiled the billy" while I collected plants for Len. Found one wild begonia. Dozens of fern species ! Also orchids. Quite possible we were first white men at this spot. Collected some pebbles. Upstream compass bearing 145°.

[illegible]

Sunday 24 May 1953 (cont) Elev. at 1 P.M. 1850 M. After stiff climb up we came out on field which boys had fired on way down. No damage. Much easier walking. Beautiful cloud effects to west--Goropu. Home at 3:00. Frank had arrived from Biniguni with cable for Len. Marie better so will stay on here at Top camp. Had hot bath. Just about to sit down to write letters when Bobby spotted 2 scrub Wallabies on other side of forest. David shot them--our first of this species for trip. Very small & dark (4 # 8 oz. & 4 # 2 oz. ! ). Wrote letters (mother, Kay, T.D.C.) 2 letters from Mother & 1 from Dr. Tate. Monday 25 May Top Camp Temp. at - 1° C. last night (coldest yet). Heavy frost. Brilliant moon tonight. Ken packed his knapsack after breakfast & after I took a couple of pictures started down the mountain to Biniguni with Niko (one of our boys) & Frank, the native medical assistant. Should be down well before dark. He is on his way out to Biawa on the coast to pick up stores & start supplies moving in for our Middle camp. I will miss him. No company in my tent tonight except rats, possums, cuscus & wallabies-- Today was an exciting one for the Mammal Department. First Lik Lik brought in a new genus Pogonomys--a long-tailed little tree rat which he caught out in the grass ! 3 other rats of 2 species we have. Boys skinned out wallabies--skulls almost perfect. I finished making up today's and yesterday's skins. I had sent David out in P.M. to look for animals in holes in trees. He found one and it ran up the tree. David went down, got his gun and collected our first giant rat Uromys anak which has a wide distribution in the mountains of N. G. Then Lik Lik & Isilele came in with another golden-green possum. Still alive--very gentle and quiet. Gave the boys a spell tonight & invited Losima to go out with me. I spotted eyes not a 100 yds from camp. In leafy high tree (fired 3 6s & 1.4:0 ) --returned to camp for some #4 s. Fired 3 more rounds before small possum fell out of tree. An immature ring-tail with a striking face pattern--young σ-- same species as the one Ken brought in a few nights ago. Losima is a good jacking companion. Delicious dinner tonight: soup, hash, hamburgers & baked beans, new bread, peas, canned pineapple & a candy bar ! Tuesday 26 May Top Camp Have just come in from 2 hrs of jacking (7:15 - 9:15 P.M.) with little Losima from Goodenough Island. Had all our luck in the first 5 minutes. I shot a golden-green ring-tailed possum just at the edge of camp in the scrub (high mossy forest). Found nothing else except 1 Rattus in 1 of my traps. Losima is a good jacking companion (repeating myself). David skinned the giant rat today (tail is almost 16" long ! the body 12" ). He found 3 embryos. Only 2 Rattus in traps today. Unpinned 37 specimens. They dry very quickly in my tent when the sun beats down. Boys finished skinning early, took cold bath in stream & then ran for the sun. Saw a small lizard at the bottom of our hole-in-the-ground john. Told Geoff & he managed to net it (without accident)--our first at this camp. His boys have found tiny frogs. Geoff is bush beating into a sheet. His insect collections have since shown a sharp rise. Took in my brook rat traps & have re-set along forest jacking trail (17). Clouds blew in about dusk & I thought our good weather was going to turn to rain. Cleared after dinner. Long-tailed bird-of- paradise was calling in woods today for several hours. Almost twice a day we have hard dried peas. They still have found no way to soften them up. I shall never go on another trip without a good selection of dehydrated food. New bread today.

[illegible]

Wednesday 27 May L953 Top Camp An exciting day for specimens. First Len went botanizing east above the Kwariu River. Jimmy was with him & found a hole high (30'-40' ? ) up in tree with a giant rat in it (Uromys). He dragged it out by the tail. David set a new trap line over in a patch of isolated scrub on the track & en his way home shot (H 10 # 9) our 3rd scrub Wallaby--a yg. o weighing a little over 3 pounds. I went out for a walk soon after 4 P.M. & heard chopping several hundred feet down the river slope. Saw Lik Lik coming with axe from camp. Billy had found a cuscus in leaning hollow tree. They opened up another hole above entrance hole & Lik Lik pulled a big male long-haired cuscus out by the tail. Same species I shot the 2nd night in camp. Worked on specimens most of day. Trapped our 4th Melomys. Also 6 Rattus. Made the ring-tail up as a study skin. Took picture of him in Isilele's hands--closeup. As I climbed the hill back of camp this P.M. Goropu was a blue outline--no detail. Dense blanket of cloud pouring over the divide between Maneau Range & Goropu from the south coast. Collingwood Bay & the Cape Vogel Peninsula also under blanket. The sun had set by the time we reached our camp saddle & Goropu was outlined by orange sky. The nearly full moon was rising over Maneau & the night chill was settling down as the boy and I (carrying cuscus) filed into camp. Took a spell tonight from jacking. Worked on my field notebook & was right in the middle of this page when the kerosene in my lamp gave out. Thursday 28 May Top Camp Elev. revised to 2230 M. from 2300 M. This was our high day for shot & trapped specimens: 11 Rattus (gray belly); 2 Rattus (white b.); 1 Pogonomys (with the last 14 mm. of his tail dorsally prehensile !); 3 Melomys; 1 Uromys; 1 Wallaby; 1 Phalanger. Total 20. David's line in the scrub on the track is full of rodents. Still don't know where Lik Lik trapped his Pogonomys (still alive when he brought it in--tail ). I must go with him tomorrow so I can get an idea of habitat. I collected parasites from the Wallaby, Uromys & Phalanger. Boys skinned fast and well. Last one ready for filling at 1 P.M. Made up skins all afternoon. Pinned them out after dinner tonight. All complete except filling Uromys. Worked on notebook. A long day. (Another cable for Len came by police runner from Baniara (3 days to camp--very fast time). Marie much better. Looks as if Len will be able to complete expedition with us. He was to have left tomorrow.) Runner returns tomorrow with cable reply & mail. Unexpected chance as usual. Wrote Kay short note (plus diary pp. 115-118). Kim (our 1st cook) sick today. Losima took over and we had the best baked bread yet! Cheese and strawberry jam with it. We have an Australian ham with us and we have a slice every day or two. Excellent. Jimmy picked up a new kind of frog while chopping wood in camp. Full moon tonight. Clouds of early evening have cleared. Friday 29 May Top Camp Another day of hard work. 1 Wallaby, another Pogonomys (Lik Lik has taken all 3 !), a white bellied Rattus, 1 large Melomys, 8 gray-bellied Rattus. I took the prize today with a new mammal for the camp--Antechinus, a small dark marsupial mouse with a black mid dorsal line. Caught in a Museum Special at edge of mossy forest and grassland. This trap line has been in same position for 10 days--still taking an occasional Rattus. This line a good example of the rule to trap out the common species in a given locality and then let your line pick up the rarer mammals. (It doesn't always work !) 103 specimens for this camp and 3 weeks to go. Went out jacking tonight. Saw one pair of eyes in thick vine tangle off trail. Missed. Then almost at edge of camp spotted eyes in

[illegible]

Friday 29 May 1953 (cont) same tree where I collected golden possum. This one very active. Fired 2 shots at where it had been--3rd brought it down. Lik Lik was a help in tracing its movements thru the branches. Our 3rd brown-faced Ring-tail. Jacked the trail down the gorge which Jimmy opened up today. Very steep. Little noise in this forest. Much prefer the scrub above camp. Will have more trails cut here. David and Lik Lik hunted without success this P.M. All the boys skinned well today. Finished before noon. Len is still finding new orchids & ferns every day. Also a yellow-flowered Rhododendron (which I could recognize) and a simple- flowered red R. with small leaves. Would not have known it as a R. Geoff's boys found 2 new frogs today. This collection will be most interesting to our Herp. Dept. Studied Tate's "Rodents" & compared some of my measurements with the Shaw-Meyer report. Clouds blowing in most of day. Moon visible tonight but clouds are driving over our pocket from the east. A few drops of rain today Some wind tonight. Tent is secure. Saturday 30 May Top Camp Our first day of real rain. Clouds low and a real downpour now and again. My work kept me out of the wet in the A.M. and this afternoon I have spent in the tent reading and writing. 7 specimens: my ring-tail; 1 Melomys; 1 white-bellied Rattus and 4 gray-b. Rattus (all in David's trap line). The rest of us drew a blank. Had Isilele put his traps along edge of forest. All finished except filling possum before lunch. Len went off for the day to botanize the Kwariu River. Back about 4 P.M.--soaked. Geoff and I had a fine lunch: ham & sausage, onions in gravy, peas, hot rolls, cheese, jam, tea. David and Lik Lik cut new trail in forest this P.M. May be too wet for jacking tonight. It has warmed a little but a cold damp has settled in camp. Birds very active in flowering trees today. Memorial Day at home. I wonder if the M.G.C. pool is to be opened today? 9 P.M. and it is pouring! During dinner the moths and other insects came down on us and Geoff put up 2 light traps--one in each tent. His best harvest at this camp. This material should be new and important. Wrote Brownie a letter tonight with news to pass on to the Urner Club and Montclair B. C. Temperature very moderate tonight. My tent is well-trenched so I am still dry. The expensive Egyptian tent cloth seems to be waterproof. It is good to have a tent of my own so I can spread out. Think I'll go to bed & read now. Rice pudding for dinner tonight. (HOPE YOU HAD A LOVELY DAY, DARLING! GOOD NIGHT) Sunday 31 May Top Camp A wet misty day. Not cold. Tonight the stars are out and the moon is rising but a thin mist is hanging in the camp hollow and in the mossy forest. Went jacking over the new trail David cut. Trees dripping. My luck still held-- brought in 1 of the brown-faced ringtail possum: a ♀ with 1 small pouch young. My 4th of this species. Also climbed down into the ravine behind camp. Nothing. Lamps were lit early for insects. Geoff discovered bats flying over the tents. One lucky close shot gave me a new species for this camp. Believe it is a Miniopterus but looks different than others collected on Cape Vogel. New species up here will come hard from now on. Today is the 1st day of our 11th collecting week. Totals for the first 10 weeks: 614 specimens; 85 marsupials; 335 bats; 194 rodents. Almost 3 weeks of this was lost time moving from Menapi to "Top Camp". The next 3 months will be almost solid collecting. Only 1 Rattus in my traps this A.M. Rain had sprung or ruined bait on nearly all traps. No one else caught anything. Set new line of Museum Specials (25) on new jacking trail

[illegible]

Sunday 31 May 1953 (cont) in forest. Light rain probably spoiled bait again. Boys built a bark overhang on one end of the work fly—the end the rain beats in. Now very dark even with bark door open. Len is doing plant work in 1/2 of my tent. He usually sleeps and works in a tent of his own. Geoff and I will bunk in together at the next camp. Walked around jacking trail in P.M. Mist swirling thru the trees. No wonder the ferns and mosses are everywhere in profusion. Did a recapitulation of all specimens collected to date. A relatively restful day for me. Monday 1 June Top Camp Another wet trap night and Isilele turned in the only Rattus. Salvaged a skin and skull out of the shot-up bat. A leisurely morning for a change. Better weather today. A few clouds drifting into camp but no rain and occasional sun- shine. Boys off hunting all day but no luck. David had a long shot at a Wallaby but missed. Spent part of this P.M. setting steel traps and walking over my jacking trails. The end of one path leads to a huge Hoop pine standing on the edge of a steep ravine down which a small brook tumbles over rock ledges. Wrote letter to Dr and Mrs. Lord. 5:45 P.M. and getting close to bat-shooting time. Hope they show up tonight. Sun sets in camp at 4 P.M. Unpinned a few more skins. Geoff and I took advantage of a patch of sun after lunch to take a bath. 10 P.M. My luck is still holding: went down into ravine in back of camp and noticed small bat going over and over same flight path—added him to collection; Kim saw bat up the hill circling the big pine trees—when I climbed up to top saw others flying against sunset—shot one and saw it fall but could not find. Took 5 of the boys up after dinner and Jimmy soon found it at the place I had marked in the grass. Both Miniopterus—anxious to compare measurements with lowland M. Beautiful orange glow sunset behind Goropu. Pines also outlined. Clouds in the river gorge but bright and clear at camp. Went jacking (took Isilele) from 7:30–9:00: Coll. 1 green possum and 1 yg. ♂brown-headed possum (sitting on vine and looked like small owl)—very thick woolly fur. David out, too, but found nothing. Back to camp. Geoff and Len collecting moths on outside of tent (light traps inside). Measured possums while relaxed. Want to compare with morning after measurements. Looks like good weather tomorrow. Need 1 more sunny day to dry specimens. Tuesday 2 June Top Camp A lovely clear day. Cold last night but I slept warm. Lik Lik brought in 1 Melomys and 2 Rattus (gray-b.). No one else had anything in traps. David has reset his trap line today. Jimmy went down towards the river scrub this A.M. and did not get back until 3 P.M. Brought in a ♂ brown-headed ring tail with a large ♂pouch young that just about filled the pouch. Both alive, but no sun to take pictures. Yound made a squeaky chattering (raspy) that sounded like a bird scolding. Have the ♂ in a plastic bag hoping that parasites will hopoff. Have collected a fair number up here for the U.S. Public Health Service. They are studying possible disease vectors. Drying went well today and I unpinned a few more specimens. A native came into camp today. Member of a village hunting party (with dogs!). They are on the mountain across the Kwariu River. Have killed 10 Tree Kan—they smoke the meat to take home—and 2 spiny anteaters ! He has promised to bring us some specimens for tobacco. I hope so ! We certainly need a man with a good hunting dog to get the rarer large specimens. Kim was very helpful as translator. I have the Daga language names for most of the local animals. This man from Bonenau—brother of Gov. interpreter who came up to top camp with us. Jacking tonight. Saw nothing for first time, but ran into mystery. Could hear some animal feeding in leafy top of tree. Cry something like flying fox. But when I fired shot nothing flew. Fruit (?) dropping to ground. Stayed there for over 1/2 hr. Light getting dim so I came home. Geoff has the light trap in my tent. Not many micros tonight. Hope the

[illegible]

Tuesday 2 June 1953 (cont) Top Camp hunter comes tomorrow. Drying skulls over lamp. Smells good. Wednesday 3 June More collecting excitement this A.M. About 1 A.M. Kim was awake and he heard noises in the trees down in the ravine. He woke David and the two found 2 giant rats (Hyomys). David shot one. Another new species for the trip. One by one they come in. 10 specimens today. Made up the large pouch young of the brown ring tail. 2 Melomys and 5 Rattus. Cleaned the skeleton of Hyomys. Worked on specimens most of day. This A.M. several carriers arrived from Biniguni. Ken sent them up with sugar, rice, salt, white yams and sweet potatoes and 2/3 s of a bottle of rum (Len and Geoff are running short !). I still have over 2 bottles of lemon powder. Also sent betel nut for the boys (just like candy to them--except that if they chew too much they become stu[pified]). Note from Ken detailing all his plans for future carrier supplies from coast. Isilele will not have to go down to help Ken. Bat shooting in late P.M. Saw only one at top of hill. No eye tonight--fired 3 times and did not bring it down. Jimmy came home early today with a huge black and white cuscus. Our 3rd of this species and by far the largest. Decided to take a rest from jacking tonight. Read and dried skulls over handle of lamp. To bed early 10:15 P.M. Misted up this P.M.--a little rain. Stars out tonight. Thursday 4 June A lucky day for me with the surprise coming in an unexpected manner. I had just come into my tent at 9:30 P.M. from jacking (nothing) when I heard something bounce on my tent top and slide down onto the ground. Too large for a moth-- gone outside and saw a small bat lying next to the tent. Grabbed for him and he grabbed me. A little fruit bat (poss. Syconycteris) with long pointed muzzle and a very long pink tongue. No tail. A soft brownish gray all over. Oval ears. Slightly tube-nosed (1 mm.). Hair long, soft, thick. Hair on proximal 1/3 of forearm covering large flight d. & vent. muscles, wing membrane attached to dorsal surface of feet (not side). Inner dorsal ventral surface of wing membrane furred. 2nd finger [illegible] 3 phalanges--1 long, 2 very short-clawed. No tragus. Collected 2 parasites. Every trip produces 1 or more unusual collecting experiences and this is one ! Went out with Isilele in EM. to set more steel traps for giant rats. Found a Wallaby in trap ! 2 in one day-- I found one this A.M. in one of my concealed, unbaited sets. Mine had a large pouch young--all legs. Made a siffp chittering call. With cuscus and 7 Rattus-- 10 spec. for the day. Just before dinner I shot another Miniopterus in forest. Almost dark and I was lucky it fell and swung on a leaf. Good Sunny A.M. Kim took pictures of me with stereo holding Wallaby with Joey sticking his head out of pouch, and also cuscus. Took 2 of general camp layout. Geoff and I have settled on Sat. June 6 (Coronation Day) to climb Maneau. Will have boys take up some traps. If clear, will attempt a few hyper-stereos. Geoff's boys made a good haul of tiny frogs today. Scarce up here. Friday 5 June A quiet day spent in camp. Wallaby, 2 bats and 3 rats for the day. My prize long- tongued bat made up very well. The boys took the Wallaby body to boil up for stew. Wrapped 93 specimens today. My knock down box may not hold all my Top Camp specimens. Len was off for the day on the back track collecting in the beech forest. Geoff and I made our plans for tomorrow. G. has written a proclamation to be read on the summit and then cached in a vial in a stone pile. He is taking a tiny swallow of rum to toast the Queen and I will have my bar of Cadbury's chocolate which Ailsa sent to me in Menapi. All the boys are coming with us except Len's 2 boys who went up with Len the first week. All we need now is a

[illegible]

Friday 5 June 1953 (cont) Top Camp good break of weather. Today has been clear and sunny and tonight is clear but the cloud banks are heavy in the river valleys. Saw no bats at dusk. Lovely sunset behind Goropu. Jacked close by for 1/2 hour but saw nothing. 2 carriers came up today from Biniguni with more food supplies. Took message back to Ken with them. He leaves for Baiawa to await our supplies coming from Samarai on "Ruru" or "Betty Ann". Had boys bring in all traps today except 16 steels in concealed sets near camp. I also have 17 rat traps out which I will run before we leave tomorrow. Almost 10 P.M. Will try to get off about 7 A.M. Saturday 6 June Coronation Day. My 2nd marsupial mouse in a forest trap. Measured and skinned before breakfast. Geoff and I and 8 of the boys (all except Bobby and Tommy who stayed with Len and Niko who is at Baiawa) started the climb up Mt. Maneau at 7:15 A.M. A very steep pitch up to the crest ridge made us puff for 1/2 hour. Sky cloudy but we decided to risk weather since we had made plans long ago to celebrate the day on top. At 8:15 we were well along the west ridge which in places narrowed to knife edges of only 2 feet with steep grassy drops on both sides. Geoff took it very easy and we had plenty of time to look around and see the country unfold. Tip of Cape Vogel visible in the early sunglow--also Moi Biri Bay where we first landed. Mt. Dayman uncovered to the S. as we climbed (Gwariu River runs between Maneau and Dayman). Mountain pipits common. Trail leads over 2 high knobs with saddles between. At 9:15 we were on the last slope up summit ridge. Summit 9:30. 2725 M. (8856 ft). Little grass, heather and fern covered ridge with 3 small knobs. Boys peeled and carved 3 poles and stuck them in ground on knobs. I built a stone cairn. Geoff explained coronation to the boys and read a statement memorializing the day and listing all names. This was folded and put into plastic tube which we placed in cairn. Many pictures taken. Sun out and good views to S & W. We found a sheltered spot a few feet from summit to eat lunch. I had saved a 1/4 lb. bar of chocolate. Also had lemon powder drink. Geoff toasted the Queen with a little vial of rum. Boys had tea and rice. More pictures, then started down at 12:50. My 3 boys set 60 traps in scrub near summit. Will go up again tomorrow. Camp at 2:15. A wonderful day! Made up my "mouse". Army ration dinner for a treat tonight. Went jacking from 7:15 to 8:45. Nothing. Waist line now 36 inches ! Sunday 7 June A peaceful day until 10:30 A.M. when David, Lik Lik, and Isilele arrived back in camp after climbing to Maneau summit to pick up their 60 traps. 7 gray-bellied Rattus and !! a pigmy possum (Eudromicia)--our first on the Expedition and the first one in the flesh I have ever seen. Arboreal and hard to trap--none on Cape York Exp. Now have 13 species for this camp--possibly more if the Rattus and Melomys can be divided. Trapped on ground among tree roots. Label for above to read: Mt. Maneau (Maneau Range)--summit area--mossy forest 25 M below summit. Boys skinned catch after lunch and made them up before supper. Re-baited traps (20 rat and 6 concealed steel); boys have 60 Mus. Spec. and 10 concealed steel--all in forest close to camp. Tomorrow will trap beech forest on back track. At 11 A.M. 2 runners with mail arrived! 2 letters from mother Apr. 19 and May 14; 2 from Kay Apr. 19 (mailed 20th from Phil by friends); 1 from Royal Bank (bought 25 more shares at $31 pesos); 1 from Stan Grierson-- which I have answered. Also a radiogram from Bunting advising that our stores for next 2 camps are coming out by boat soon. Mail day is always a happy event. Had written K in A.M. before mail came. Enclosed diary pp. thru June 6 (#128). Letters also to C. D. Brown & Lords & to Royal Bank. No jacking tonight. Letter writing instead. I heard but did not see a 2nd. sp. of b. of P. in forest. Geoff and I feel fine today after our climb. We found out today (G. Rec'd a program)

[illegible]

Sunday 7 June 1953 (cont) Top Camp that we had celebrated the wrong day for Coronation! (actually on the 2nd). Don't know how G. slipped up on that one! We still had a wonderful time. Also mailing 2 Maneau rolls of film to Kodak. Only 10 P.M. Time for another letter or two. Saw scrub hens in forest today. Have coll. a few moths for G. in tent tonight. Monday 8 June The 60 traps near camp yielded 2 species of Rattus and my first o^Antechinus--now have 3. An easy morning. We were in the clouds and had driving rain from the north for a few hours. Len and I both worked in my tent to keep out of the wind. Unpinned and wrapped a few more specimens in P.M. Rain upset my plans to visit the beech forest and have the boys start trapping there. They put out traps around camp again. Lik Lik and I went out jacking for almost 3 hours tonight. Shot 1 young o^brown-headed ringtail. Looked like small rat when I first saw him. Heard no shots but saw a few bats but no chance to collect. David was out, too, but I heard no shots. We went down the mountain stream gorge to N. of camp. Very steep slopes. Len showed me a giant maiden hair fern he collected--3 feet high. Also another new Rhododendron. Sweet potatoes are still holding out--good! Kim made delicious rissoles tonight out of canned fish. He can fix up all sorts of ordinary food so that it tastes good. His bread didn't quite bake today--doughy in the center--but it still tastes good. Light trap working well for Geoff tonight. He caught a medium sized pale powder blue moth which is very beautiful. Runners left early this A.M. with mail and film. 2 weeks from today we should be settled in our 2nd or Middle camp. Tuesday 9 June Only 1 other specimen today besides the ring-tail--a wh.-b. Rattus--until Jimmy came in about noon with 3 Tree-climbing Rats new to the collection (Pogonoms) grayish-brown with snow-white underparts. Dorsally prehensile tail tip. Larger and different color than our other species of Pogonoms. After an easy morning, I took the boys down the back track into the beech forest to the bark shelter (about 40 min. down hill). There they cooked their rice while I wandered down the trail looking for tree-climbers. I found none. Boys set 67 traps along trail. Tomorrow may tell an interesting story (I hope). Many holes at bases of trees. Climbed back to camp about 3:30 P.M. Saw 2 adult Birds-of-Paradise (long black tails) and one immature. 1 o^ was evidently defending territory; he was chasing the other 2 continually. Many small birds in forest. Took 2 pictures of Hoop Pines. David and I skinned Jimmy's catch. He found them in a hole in a tree. Made 1 skeleton & pickled 2 bodies. Made up & pinned skins after dinner. This makes at least 14 species for this camp. No jacking tonight. Clear in A.M. clouds in P.M. and clear & cool tonight. Betel nut (5 apiece) issued to boys tonight. They were chorus singing most of the evening. Good voices. Saw lovely magenta orchids in bloom on tree today. Some of the beech trees are 3-4 ft. in diameter. Our 2nd camp will be very different from this one--right in the forest--no views. Geoff left his light trap in the forest all night--good catch, large and small. Wednesday 10 June David came back at 8:30 with his beech forest (Nothofagus) catch. A very dark Melomys and several gray-bellied Rattus. Among Isilele's specimens was a pale Melomys (partial albino)--had brown not pink eyes. Thought it was something different at first. Color mutation very similar to Mus. I caught on Cape Hatteras.

[illegible]

Wednesday 10 June (cont) Top Camp I had 1 large Melomys in my trap line. Total of ll for the day. This P.M. David went out looking in tree holes and came back with 6 Pogonomys! Too late to measure and skin so I have a good start on tomorrow. We are lucky to get some of these little tree-climbing rats because this species has not trapped. A bright day with only an occasional cloud drifting into our pocket. Unpinned Mt. Maneau specimens today. Another day or two will see my total reach 700 for trip and over 200 for camp. A black bird (about size of robin) with vivid yellow on head (looked like black eye streaks also). Geoff had another beautiful moth in trap this morning--green with scallloped design. 9:30 P.M. Have just come in from a frustrating evening of jacking. First I walked within a few feet of a Wallaby without seeing him until he jumped into the scrub. Then on 3 occasions I heard the soft high-pitched grunting of what I am sure are giant rats. Twice I could hear them chewing on wild figs that had fallen to the ground and once I saw one running thru the undergrowth. No chance for a shot. No ring-tails tonight. David was out earlier and brought in a Wallaby. This makes our 100th Marsupial for the trip (about 15 % of my total). Geoff has a light trap in my tent tonight and is sitting in here reading. Have some work to do in my notebook. Thursday 11 June Tonight the mystery animal of last night put in an appearance at the edge of camp. Len was walking around the tent looking for moths when he heard the leaves rustle. He called me and I found one of the giant rats (Uromys anak) about 15 ft. up in a small tree. Shot her with .410 (#12). Was making the high pitched grunt that I have heard before. This is specimen #200 from this camp. This afternoon while I was making up skins I heard Jimmy chopping up in the scrub. Isilele, Kim and I went up to help. Jimmy had found another hole full of Pogonomys--6 of them this time (including 2 young). Rain in A.M. and early P.M. clearing later. Lik Lik sick--don't know if Isilele ran his traps or not. Only 6 Rattus today in addition to the Wallaby and David's 6 Pogonomys. Geoff had a fine menu tonight. Soup and crackers, bacon & yams, real cocoa & a cookie for me & some Army chocolate; also fresh baked bread & strawberry jam. Walked up the hill to look for early-flying bats and saw the lowest sunset yet. Goropu was indigo against a yellow and orange sky--the valley between filled with a sea of milky- white almost translucent clouds. The high clouds overhead were tinged rose color. The yellow glow lasted for a long time. Kim helped Isilele skin the Wallaby today--the boys Kaied the body. Kim caught one Rattus today. Is asking for more traps. Clear & cold tonight. Boys singing & clapping. Friday 12 June A long day at the skinning table: 6 Pogonomys, 1 Melomys, 1 wh.-b. Rattus, 1 Uromys, 6 gr.-b. Rattus. Lik Lik was back on the job so the skinning went very quickly. All skulls cleaned by noon. All made up by 4 P.M. One of my concealed steel traps caught a scrub hen (Megapode); if it had not broken its leg, I would have released it. Saved the head, 1 leg & 1 wing; gave the rest to Kim who made a fine stew for lunch. Jimmy shot a large pigeon in A.M. & we had another stew tonight. Poor Geoff doesn't think much of our game diet. Showered off and on today but clear tonight. Weeds were wet for jacking but there was lots of activity in the wild fig trees. Heard a number of Giant Rats but saw none. Nothing collected today by boys. Len hurt his shoulder a few days ago and he is somewhat handicapped in his field collecting. However, his boys go out & usually bring in some good material. One found 3 new ferns--it seems as if there is no end of them. Geoff is getting very restless up here.

[illegible]

Friday 12 June 1953 (cont) Top Camp He is collecting very little and is anxious to get to the lower camps where he will have more material to work on. I don't believe that he realizes that these mountain specimens are much more important than the lowland ones. There is a great deal of micro stuff here but its collecting demands special technique and a good couple of eyes. He could stay within a few yards of camp and make a fine collection; instead he tramps all over the country and finds very little. I am not satisfied that I have all the possible mammals (there are certainly more bats) that live here. But then it sometimes takes months to catch on to the habits of the rarer animals. We have really been very lucky in our catches. 11 P.M. a fairly warm night. Saturday 13 June A dull rainy, misty day with the sun trying to break thru occasionally but soon giving up. Had one Melomys in my line and David 1 Rattus. Our total for the past week 61--one of my best. Grand Total 714. The end of July should see me past our first 1000--I hope. Boys brought in beech forest traps. Had hoped to set in high scrub above camp but due to rain I did not send them up. Set around camp. Kim asked for 6 more and Losima also wanted 6--the fever is spreading. Last night I left the rat bodies at one end of the work fly--on the ground. This A.M. 4 had disappeared! This P.M. set up 7 concealed steels around remaining bodies. Not too optimistic. Wrapped more skins. Gauze wrapped my few formalin specimens. Boys issued with betel nut this P.M. All singing & clapping. Getting dark--time to see if bats are flying. 10:15 P.M. A frustrating 2 hours of jacking. Heard at least 6 Giant Rats but could not shine any. Dropping wild figs all around me. Geoff was nearly beaned by one last night when putting out his light trap in the gully. Found 1 Ring-tail tonight--high in leafy top--shot did not bring him down and he must have scrambled into another tree. Small bats all thru the woods. Sky has cleared. Wet & drippy in forest tonight. The rain this A.M. set off the "peepers". Kim & I finally found one in the loose humus. Small with red belly-- a very striking frog, and new for Geoff's collection. He put his boys on the track, but Losima was the star collector. Much micro life in the humus. Too wet for Len to collect today. Just one more week in this camp. Soup, fish cakes, peas, rice, bread & marmalade, & lemon drink for dinner. Sunday 14 June I have the luck of the Irish! The animal that was stealing bodies came back again last night and promptly caught himself. A beautiful white-spotted "native cat" (Satellus albopunctatus)--our first of the trip. Losima caught 1 Melomys and 2 Rattus in his 6 traps! Also 4 other Rattus (1 a wh.-b.) came in. Jimmy arrived about noon with a pocketful of Pogonomys. Total of 13 for the day. A good start on my 13th collecting week. The collecting part of the trip is now 1/3 finished. 24 weeks more will see us ready to leave for home. Raining off and on today. Losima took 6 more traps & Kim now wants steel traps to put in a Wallaby pad he has found. Weather too poor for boys to trap high scrubs. Will see what tomorrow brings. Len's boys went collecting on their own today and brought in some good plants. We had the last of our oatmeal today, and the ham is almost down to the bone. However, we have plenty of food for this last week and then some. Some excitement tonight. David was jacking in the gully tonight, and spotted a big grey and white cuscus. After the first shot about 5 of us trailed down to help. He started moving thru the treetops with the boys trying to follow him with their flashlights. 2 more shots and David had him. I did not go out tonight.

[illegible]

Monday 15 June 1955 Top Camp Another busy day at the table. Losima was our star again--2 Melomys, 1 wh.-b. Rattus, & 2 gr.-b. Rattus--out of 12 traps ! I had 1 Melomys & a Rattus & the 3 boys 5 & Kim 1. A total of 15 with David's cuscus. Skinning went well and I started my study skins after lunch. The native cat from yesterday made up very well. He is larger than any of the 14 listed in Shaw Mayer. The 2 flower-flower boys, Jimmy and the 2 bug-bug boys went off on their own collecting trip to the river today. No mammals but Len's boys found a new palm. My three went up to the scrub beyond the Maneau ridge this P.M. to set their traps. Brand new territory. We may have a big catch tomorrow. Elevation about 2430 M.-- 200 M. above this camp and about 3/4 mile N.E. by E. of here. Len wandered around in the A.M. taking black and white pictures including one of myself, David & Isilele hunting for fleas on the cuscus. He spent the P.M. developing the roll. Came out fairly well. Kim took 2 steel traps to put in a Wallaby pad. One of the Melomys today is the largest I have ever seen--just over 300 mm. No word from Ken in some time but we are expecting carriers next Sunday. No jacking tonight. Baited my native cat set again. Fresh baked bread today. Mail may come soon since the district patrol officer is due in Biniguni in a day or so. New moon over the hill tonight, Tuesday 16 June An exciting catch this A.M. but I did not realize it until tonight when I looked at my specimen carefully. Caught a large rat in the same unbaited steel trap that took the Wallaby a few days ago. Looked like Uromys and I let it go at that. Tonightwhile pinning it out I noticed how diff. the tail appeared. Upon checking the skull I immediately found that I had our first specimen of Anisomy s -- a rat with strikingly compressed lower incisors. We also had an assortment of 16 other Rattus and Melomys so I had my 3rd busy day in a row--45 specimens in 3 days. Losima again brought in some good specimens (4). Len went down to the beech forest for the day so Geoff and I had the camp to ourselves--a most pleasant sunny day. We took hot baths in the sun after lunch. David gave G. a haircut and I had my first shave in four days. 2 runners arrived in camp about 10 A.M. from Biniguni with letters from Ken detailing his plans to move us down to 2nd camp. Stores arrived on the "Ruru" at Baiawa on the 10th. Ken is coming up to 2nd camp on Friday with carriers and they will be here on Sat. A.M. to move us out. Boys will bring in all traps tomorrow. That will give me Thurs and Frid. to dry and pack skins and skulls. Jimmy came in at 2:30 with another brown-headed Ring- tail which he found in a tree hole. Maybe tomorrow will be another big day. Runner also brought up a full bottle of rum for Len & Geoff, who have been rationing themselves for days. Also a letter to G. from Ailsa detailing all the Samarai Coronation events. Ken says he is bringing up some more chocolate bars. No outside mail. A beautiful clear cold (first for some time) night with the new moon bright over the hill. No jacking tonight. Wednesday 17 June My other notebook has run out so will continue in my field book. Another good specimen day--13 (1 ring-tail, 3 Melomys, 2 wh.-b. Rattus, 7 gr.-b. Rattus). Makes 58 for lst 4 days of this week. A beautiful clear sunny day following a cold night. Specimens dried well--unpinned a few more. All traps came in today except a few of my steels. Billy came in from frog hunting with a Miniopterus which he found under bark on a tree. And late this P.M. my luck was in again. I had walked up to the top of the hill to watch and photograph the sunset sky behind Goropu, and to try for bats. Crystal clear horizon. Was just about to return to camp when I saw a bat coming along the ridge high and fast. A long but perfect shot gave me another new species for the collection. Do not know

[illegible]

Wednesday 17 June 1953 (cont) Top Camp generic name but it is a free-tail bat (Molossidae). Large, chocolate brown, big ears. Now have 18 species for camp here--270 specimens. Collected its parasites--2 fleas and 1 wingless fly. An exciting catch. Len also had good luck. Is sure he has a new genus of large flowering tree. An important find. No jacking tonight. Will do as much specimen packing as I can tomorrow. Thursday 18 June Made up my 2 bats in A.M. Unpinned more specimens and wrapped dry ones. Finally put 176 skins in the knockdown box--filled it. Have 82 more to fit in some place--possibly 1 of the black boxes. Also counted, sorted & packed skulls in the jam & butter cans I have been saving. Will carry only a few damp skins down to 2nd or Middle camp. Rest will go down by carrier to Biniguni. Walked up to see the sunset tonight. Low cloud sea in valleys. Wonderful yellow and orange skies behind Goropu. I never tire of this scene. Stayed until the southern Cross shone out clear. Only Miniopterus flying. No luck. New brown bread tonight--good! Boys out most of day but I don't think they tried very hard to find anything. Clear and cold again tonight. Carriers come up to #2 camp tomorrow while we finish packing. Jacking for an hour. Shot at a Wallaby but did not get him. Woods rather quiet. Still Giant Rats but little else left. Friday 19 June Our final full day in camp. Very hot after the sun was well up. Perfect for drying the rest of my specimens. Wire-strapped my knockdown box (176 specimens) and wrapped in tarpaulin for transport to Biniguni. Will carry skulls and more skins to 2nd camp and pack in 1/2 empty black box there. All skulls dry & packed. We are all ready to strike camp tomorrow. Walked north-west along the ridge this P.M. to take kadachromes of Mt. Maneau & the Goropu peaks. The low- lands to N. and Collingwood Bay were a solid blanket of cloud with only the summit of Goodenough Island sticking thru in the distance. Tonight I walked up the hill to watch my last Goropu sunset. One of the best--a beautiful rose & yellow fading into orange, salmon and yellows. 1/4 moon directly overhead. Geoff opened 2 ration cans tonight and he and Len had coffee and I cocoa and a cookie. Boys and I looked for the wallaby in A.M. but could find no trace. Brought in my last 6 steel traps. Leaving my set at end of work fly out tonight. Finished another roll of film today. No jacking tonight. Saw only 1 bat. Saturday 20 June Top Camp to Middle Camp (This is being written on the 22nd). We were up at 6; rolled our swags, tents and flys down and folded into packs. All gear then placed in 2 lines--1 for single loads, the other for double loads. Ken arrived about 10 A.M. and we had a good gab for an hour before the 40 plus carriers showed up. We had rice cooked for them and finally at 11:30 they poled their loads and started down the mountain. A lovely sunny day. Len and his boys went on ahead to collect on the way down. A carrier on way up had set a brush fire which swept the track at a narrow part. This held us up for 30-40 minutes while they cut a new path thru the scrub. Very clear. Could see all of Cape Nelson and its volcanic peaks, also Goodenough Island far to N.E., also mts. on mainland to N.W. Good track, soft with humus. Steep grade at times. Geoff, Ken & I brought up rear and arrived at Middle Camp (1540M) at about 2:30 P.M. All gear safely down. Wrapped another tarp around my specimen case and saw it go off to Biniguni. Took pictures in camp In A.M. Boys soon had our tents up and beds rigged. Ken had a surprise for me--a Biniguni counselor with his 2 dogs! He had brought in 2 cuscuses before we arrived. The boys had also found a small brown ringtail in a tree in camp. 3 good specimens. Had boys put up 15 traps apiece and I put 6 around work fly. Measured skins.

[illegible]

Saturday 20 June 1953 (cOnt). Top Camp to Middle Camp After dinner Len and Geoff started c_elebrating the successful move down the mountain. They were pleasantly drunk when I went to bed at midnight. And they did not go to bed all night. Ken and I were up at 6 to do some repacking. Got all my extra skins and all skulls into a black box (#28) for carriers to take to Biniguni. Len and Geoff were standing around in a complete daze. Sunday 21 June Middle Camp. (see above). Carriers off to Biniguni about 9. Counselor off with his 2 dogs and wife, hunting. Caught 1 Rattus in work fly & my boys had an easy day skinning the 2 cusc_uses & 1 Ring-tail. Had just finished making up skins after lunch when our hunter came back with a big q Tree Kangaroo ! ! Grizzled head, thick brownish body, short hind feet, an indistinctly ringed tail. Weighed 18 lbs. Ken and I rigged him on tree trunk & I took several pictures. We are camped in the middle of oak-beech forest on one of the mountain ridges. No view. Skinned the tree c climber. Went jacking with Ken. Heard rats & saw bats but shot nothing. Back at camp to find Kim taking axe out to David who had located a cuscus. Animal went from tree to tree with boys following leaf noise. Went in circle ending in big tree near boys's fly. David shot but possum hung up, so Billy chopped tree down. Our 3rd Cuscus. They did a fine job to follow cuscus so well and patiently. Geoff snoring his head off when I went to bed. Not cold but slept in my bag. Boys put traps out (not yesterday). Camp shaking down well today. Monday 22 June I will remember this day for a long time. The boys and I were quietly at work preparing our Cuscus, the Rattus and Melomys when the counselor, his wife and 2 dogs walked into camp. The wife was carrying the morning catch in her forehead sl ing bag--1 Ring-tail possum (similar to the golden-green one at Top camp, but a different species), and a Zaglossus ! -- the famous long-beaked spiny ant eater of New Guinea. This is only the 2nd one taken on 4 Archbold Exp. to N. G. Quite rare in the big mammal collections. Much more hair than the short-beaked Cape York "porcupines" and fewer spines--these almost concealed by the hair. I tried to take pictures but light very poor. Ken didn't want me to show my elation in front of the counselor since haven't settled on prices yet. The animal is evidently well known to the Maneau people (in Daga dialect--Kutayo). In the P.M. David brought in 2 more brown-headed Ring-tails, that he found in tree hole. He jacked another at night and Ken also shot a small one (as usual with #4 !). I had 3 specimens to fill after dinner so I did not go out. These woods are rich with life. We will have a busy winter. Len found a primitive "fish-tail" fern today. Rare. Tuesday 23 June More excitement. This morning the counselor walked in with another q Tree climber with a hairless "Joey" (pouch young). I can't get over my good luck ! I took pictures of the c. with the tree - cl. draped over his shoulders. After lunch I skinned Zaglossus--the long beak was quite a job but the rest was an old story after my Cape York experience with Tachyglossus. The boys skinned the tree-c. while I filled skins. The counselor gets the meat which he smokes and has his wife carry back to Biniguni. He leaves tomorrow as he wants to go to a local pig feast. Ken goes down, too, and he promises to send up another hunter with dogs. I hope so because without dogs it is only luck that brings in some of these mammals. Thick cloud and rain & dark caught me in the middle of my work so I closed shop for the day. After dinner wrote letters to K., Dr. Anthony, Uncle Will, General and Lou. 2 rolls of Maneau film also go out with Ken. Frank leaves Biniguni for Baniara in a day or so & takes the mail with him. No jacking. Too wet.

[illegible]

Wednesday 24 June 1953 Middle Camp No real surprises today. David had a nice ♀ "native cat" in his meat set--our 2nd for Maneau. Only 2 Rattus. Gave me a chance to get caught up in my work. Ken left in early A.M. He took Losima down with him. Niko stays here to help in the kitchen. Skinned out the feet of Zaglossus and scored his spine muscles, alumed the body and put it away to cure for a day or so. Jimmy came in with a Cuscus this A.M. Boys were hunting all P.M. but found nothing. I put my bat net across the up trail. Not optimistic. Shot my first bat for this camp-- Miniopterus. Jacking after dinner--shot a little scrub Wallaby. David out and brought in a Cuscus. A good start for tomorrow. Moon out bright tonight. Went out for 1/2 hr. to look for giant rats--could hear them but they are very hard to see. In clouds most of day. Kim made a wonderful meat pie tonight with very light crust. Thursday 25 June The day started slowly but wound up in a blaze of excitement. A quiet sunny morning measuring and skinning. Len back at 1 P.M. After lunch while I was making up skins Liklik came in with a live Antechinus which he had caught by hand! New for this camp. Also a Rattus from his trap line. David went up the trail jacking before dark and on his return shot a brown-headed Ring-tail and a large brown ring-tail--our 2nd specimen. He also brought in another prize--a new (our 3rd species for Maneau) Pogonomy. Very long tail with white tip and dorsally prehensile. I shot another small bat at dusk over the camp clearing.Liklik & Isilele went out jacking & they banged away a couple of times without success. David & I went down the east slope where we had heard giant rats in trees. David shot a Hyomys out of a tree--no eye shine--our 2nd specimen. This made 7 specimens, 7 species for the afternoon & evening. Now have 13 species for this camp in less than a week & over 2 weeks to go! 10:30 P.M. I'm off to bed--I can see a busy day tomorrow. Geoff and his boys cut trail toward a big mountain brook on the north east slope. Expects to reach it tomorrow. Friday 26 June A Melomys in trap made 9 specimens--8 species in 1 day! Collected parasites from Hyomys & Melomys. Saved skeleton of Pogonomy. Geoff and his 2 boys continued on their cut trail today until they reached the brook--a fair sized mt. torrent enclosed in rain forest. Left at 9--back at 2 P.M. just as clouds closed in & rain started. Didn't last long. Full moon tonight. David shot 3 brown-headed Ring-tails tonight--one with fair-sized pouch young. I shot at 2 bats & missed both. Put my bat net up again in a tunnel-like part of trail. Niko finally captured one of the 6 o'clock cicadas--a beauty about 3 inches long. Made a a meat set with 3 steels near camp. Soup, stew & rice pudding for dinner. Boys heard a dog not too far from camp--we think they may be up from Biniguni hunting for us. They may show up in camp any day. Saturday 27 June Today is summed up in 1 word RAIN. We have been very fortunate not to have had more so we are not complaining. Caught a specimen of a new genus for expedition in a small trap just outside of the work fly. A fawn & white mouse, long tail & long slender feet, big ears (Lorentzimys). An exciting catch. Liklik captured a "native cat" in a meat set. Today ended 14th collecting week: 128 marsupials; 344 bats; 368 rodents; 1 monotreme--Total 841. For week--64. Runner arrived with mail at lunchtime! (K. #s 11, 12, 13(clippings), 14(last 6th June); Mother May 1 & 27; Dr. Mayr, J.2; Dottie, May 20; Rus P., J.1) a bonanza !

[illegible]

Sunday 28 June 1953 Middle Camp A quiet rainy day in camp. 1 Rattus & 1 Melomys were the catch. Made up a few ring-tail skins from Saturday's catch. The runner went off with our mail after breakfast. He will turn it over to the Baniara policeman at Biniguni. Len and Geoff get real service here in camp. Niko comes in about 6:15 each morning with hot tea and bread & jam. How people can eat when they are still half asleep is beyond me. And then we have breakfast at 7:15. They also have morning and afternoon tea--with sandwiches. But I am the one who cleans the plates at meal times. Bat shooting at dusk but my eye was off. David was out scouring the woods in the P.M. & found 1 brown-headed ring-tail. I shot at the trail-flying bat that I have been trying to collect for a week. Nothing in bat net except a bird. A wonderful apricot pie for dinner. Kim certainly knows the secret of crust. Monday 29 June Did not wake up until 6:30 this A.M. A tail-less Melomys, 4 Rattus and another Lorentzomys--this one from David's trap line. A day of sun & showers. Checked all flat skins--some are nearly dry, but we need one good sunny day. Gave boys a few more traps. Now that the larger material is slack off we will go for small mammals. No sign of another native hunter with dogs. Now have a few over 100 traps out. Stars were bright for a few minutes early this evening but the night has been wet & a gusty wind is in the tree tops. Did not go jacking. Instead I went after one of the numerous species of frogs that sound off on damp nights. Caught one--a peeper--here in camp clearing. Geoff sent his boys frog hunting, too. Total catch--0. It's not too easy to locate these tree frogs. 4 numbers of "Time" (Pacific edition) came in with mail and we have been boning up on April & May news. Rice pudding with golden syrup tonight. Tuesday 30 June LikLik hit the jackpot this A.M. with a new Mammal for the mountain--an Antechinus (no dorsal stripe & orange patches behind the ears). What I called Antechinus at Top Camp is actually Murexia (so I now believe). I found the bat I shot last night by great good luck on top of a log in the tangle of down trees. Same as previous two. Also 5 Melomys and 3 Rattus all of which were wet & had to be dried with sawdust. A good catch for a wet night. Showers, wind & sunshine all day. Ken walked up the mountain from Biniguni (left at 8 A.M.--arrived here at noon.) Good to have someone cheerful in camp again. Told me that during a heavy rain at Biniguni the rest house roof had sprung a leak over my specimen boxes--no damage done. David jacked another brown-headed Ring-tail tonight (with pouch young). Kim baked an apple pie for dinner. Len took one of Geoff's boys with him today to teach him to look for small insects. More rain tonight. Wednesday 1 July LikLik brought in a Wallaby which trapped in his steel set. Rattus & Melomys made up the rest of the catch. More blue sky today & no rain! A few drops tonight. A slow day with specimen preparation taking most of the time. Some good parasites from Wallaby. Shot at 3 bats tonight--hit 2 but couldn't find one. Will search tomorrow. David brought in a Q Cuscus alive--will try to take pictures tomorrow. David also jacked 2 more brown-headed Ring-tails tonight--one with a good-sized pouch young. Rice pudding & apricot rolls for dinner. Ken may go down to Bottom camp site tomorrow to clear more ground for flys. Let Ken read Rus' letter--got quite a kick out of it & plans to write Rus from Biniguni.

[illegible]

Thursday 2 July 1953 Middle Camp Found the 2nd bat. Traps gave 4 Rattus--l with heavy ochre wash ventrally. Took pictures of the Cuscus in tree. Rain & sun alternated all day and kept me busy taking out & bringing in skins. There is a little green mold on some of the flat skins. Will have to dry over lamp tomorrow. Police runner arrived at noon with an unexpected mail: 2 from Kay, 2 from Mother & 1 from Don Carter (sent June 17). No jacking tonight; wrote Dory, Dorothy & Bill, & Don. Cloudless sky tonight. My eye was off & no bats were shot. Have been drying skulls over the lamp while I sit here on my bed writing letters on my lap. Ken left this A.M. for Bottom Camp taking Niko & Jimmy with him to help clear a camp site for our next move down the mountain. Len's boys brought in some very large oak acorns (1½ " dia.) ! This is oak forest here--no beech trees. Fresh bread today. Caught another large 3" Cicada today. We have 5 now. Friday 3 July A quiet rainy day & night in camp. Only Rattus & Melomys in traps. Had a luke warm bath in a cool drizzle of rain. Runner left this A.M. for Biniguni. Jimmy returned from Bottom Camp where he had helped Ken clear camp site. No jacking. Read in bed for a change ! Caught another Giant Cicada in tent. Kim made a tasty stew with good dumplings tonight. Re-set my trap line up the trail. David out jacking for a few minutes before the rain--1 brown-headed Possum. Saturday 4 July The day began with an hour of sun, then 12 hrs. of rain & now the stars are out. David brought in a real prize from his line--a small, very long-eared, long-tailed mouse which I can not track down in Tate's Rodents. Head & body only 80 mm. t.v. 126 h.f. 25.5 and ear 19 ! Trapped under fallen log. Also 3 Melomys, 2 Rattus & I found the Miniopterus I shot last night. In mid-afternoon we got work that Tommy (one of Len's boys) had seriously cut his foot with a bush knife. Geoff went down the river trail with 4 boys & found him in shock--bad loss of blood. Boys carried him in on a stretcher. Len cleansed wound & I shot site of cut with novacaine & then put 4 stitches in cut thru which muscle tissue bulged, covered with sulfa powder & bandaged. May have cut superficial tendons. Came out of shock early tonight (blankets and warm drinks). Len gave codein and phenobarbitol. Sleeping & good pulse 10 P.M. We hope no infection sets in. A social evening--no jacking. Geoff and I read until 11 P.M. Len has new tree fern, Geoff a tree frog. Sunday 5 July A day without rain altho a few damp clouds drifted across the ridge now & then. 2 good specimens: Murexia in my trap line & a Q rodent (M.F. o - 2 = 4) in David's (our 3rd of this species)--but I don't know the genus. I thought it was Lorentzimys but M.F. rules it out--may be Leptomys. Also Rattus & Melomys. Dried flat skins over Len's oven. Began to fill up Zaglossus. Our patient is running low fever & still weak but he slept well. A few days should see him picking up. Shot 2 bats at dusk--1 red phase, 1 gray phase Miniopterus. Jacking-- heard animals but David & I could not locate in tall trees. Had another snap shot at my "trail bat"--no luck. Delicious meat pie for dinner. Geoff packed spare food to be sent to Bottom Camp--carriers may arrive tomorrow. Boys to shift trap lines to river for rest of our stay here.

[illegible]

Monday 6 July 1953 Middle Camp A slow day--nothing except Rattus & Melomys besides the bats. Finished making up skins early. About 2:30 my three boys & I left camp for the Atairo River (we think that's its name) by the trail Geoff cut a few days ago. Made it in 25 minutes--fast going. Elev. 1370 M. A lovely wild spot with the far bank rising almost vertically for a 100 feet or so. Tree ferns growing from the sheer wall & looking prehistoric in the gently swirling cloud mist that filled the gorge. Begonias growing on the rocks--mosses and ferns covering every square inch of available space. Not a wide brook--you can cross in a few steps--but a noisy one. Swifts were flying low. The boys set their traps & I rigged my piece of shad net (the one I used as a bat net on Cape York) in a flume; I hope to catch Crossomys--a water rat. Not much chance. David went in for a bath. The gorge is very likely filled with plants new to science, but Len has a bad shoulder & the trail is so steep & slippery (roots & yellow clay under a shallow humus) that he will not attempt the walk (you need both arms & legs to climb out of the gorge. His boys have collected new plants there each trip. Back at camp about 4:30. No jacking. To bed early & a sound sleep after my strenuous walk. Tuesday 7 July David finally jacked another Giant Rat last night--this time Anisomys (I trapped one at Top Camp). Also 2 brown ring-tails. All the rest Rattus & Melomys (3 Rattus from the brook). Misty clouds driving in most of day with sun showing occasionally. 2 carriers arrived from Biniguni with 1/2 drum kerosene (but no Nelson's Blood--rum to you--Len & Geoff were sore upset--they only have a 1/2 bottle to last the week out !). We had expected more carriers but Ken is no doubt having trouble getting men to carry because of the pig feasts. He is hoping to move us down to Bottom Camp next Monday. Jacked one small brown ring-tail tonight. No luck with bats. 8 more traps to each boy--now have 69 traps in gorge. Boys brought in 2 flower fragments of a lovely salmon & yellow Rhododendron from the gorge. Not being able to collect there himself is breaking his heart. Reading and writing in bed. Lamp warms up tent very quickly. Wednesday 8 July Geoff's 55th birthday. Gave G. my last bar of chocolate. David shot another Anisomys last night and caught one of the long-footed rodents in a river gorge trap. Tonight, while I dried and started to wrap specimens, David jacked the river trail & shot one of the golden-green Ring-tail Possums that we found at Top Camp--our first for this camp--and a brown-headed Ring-tail. 18 species for this camp. Have had lamp going all day in tent. I hope we will have better drying weather at next camp. Only a few drops of rain today. For birthday dinner L. & G. finished the rum (4 long dry days ahead of them--poor fellows !), and we had a sausage stew with dumplings and an apple pie. Len walked up to the beech forest to collect. Thursday 9 July I am sure we have a second Rattus for this camp. H.F. measures over 30 mm. & ventral color very buffy. 3 came in today & we had 1 yesterday. David shot another Anisomys at 5 A.M. Heard it chewing in tree near boys' fly & shot it as it came down tree--head first. 2 small Rattus & 2 short-winged black birds from river traps. Dried specimens all day over lamp in tent. Have 2 wire trays which I suspend over lamp. Wrapped for a couple of hours. Out jacking & baiting traps for an hour. Saw nothing. The sounds I will always associate with this oak forest are the calls of the numerous species of frogs. Peepers & whistlers & grunters. A beautiful white moth with a striking geometric design came to Geoff's light

[illegible]

Thursday 9 July 1953 (cont). Middle Camp trap. Sunny morning but rain the P.M. Stars tonight. Geoff visited river again today. Finished the apple pie for dinner. Kim fixed boiled onions with white sauce for me. Friday 10 July Poor trap night but 1 q of the suspected 2nd sp. of Rattus came in. Verified mam. form. as 0 - 2 = 4. Also a c?. Gave me a chance to pack wet specimens & continue my drying of skins in tent. Also finished filling & pinned out Zaglossus. Looks fine but takes up a lot of room. Boys out hunting all afternoon but found nothing. David jacked another Hyomys tonight--also a Cuscus. I also collected a Cuscus. Sun most of the day & lovely soft starlit night. G's boys collected as far down as Bottom Camp & brought in a huge butterfly. Len coll. first snake on Maneau. Len did his last coll. for this camp (has over 400 numbers now). Have both lamps going in tent tonight--I'm stripped to the waist. 2 carriers from Biniguni with 2 bottles of rum ! and fresh vegetables. Ken reports case of meat stolen at Kwagira. Saturday 11 July Another q Rattus of 2nd sp. came in this A.M. from same ridge as the others. Mammary count checked again as 0 - 2 = 4. A short shower about 10 A.M. but generally good day. Dried skins all day over lamp. Will have to carry 3 boards of pinned material in my collecting trunk. At dusk I shot 2 bats over the camp clearing--both Miniopterus. After dinner jacked for an hour--shot a small brown Ring-tail. David shot another Anisomys & best of all found a Dactylonax (long-fingered striped possum)--our first for Maneau ! We were about 50 yds. apart listening to giant rats fighting when he shone the eyes of the possum. Cannot understand why we have not found D. during 3 weeks we have been here. Carriers due to arrive tomorrow. Have busy day ahead of me--making skins, & packing. We had taro baked in coals of fire tonight--nutty flavor--crust like baked potato. Also apple pie & strawberry tart. Changed position of rat net. Sunday 12 July Last day at Middle Camp--and from 2 P.M. on a rainy one ! Carriers (30 plus including 4 women) arrived at 12:30, had rice, tied their loads on poles & were just about to take off 3000' down the mountain to Bottom Camp when it poured. Men under our work fly and the women unrolled their pandanus leaf shelters & crouched under them. Finally let up a bit & Geoff & Losima started down & carriers followed. Len has moved in with me--his tent went down for setting up for G. & Ken (who did not come up to Middle Camp). Carriers will be up tomorrow to take rest of camp down. Made up skins in P.M. & packed skins & skulls tonight in tent. Finished at 10 P.M. Knockdown box is jammed with skins. 193 specimens for this camp--20 species. Daga name for Dactylonax is Oôlou. Len & I had a pleasant evening talking about Archbold Expeditions & Museum. Good frog chorus. Monday 13 July Middle Camp to Bottom Camp (700 M.) Up at 6 A.M. Took down flys & tent. Nailed up my knockdown specimen box & wrapped with rubber cloth. Bays had made a litter to carry Tommy. They started down at 8 A.M. Carriers arrived at 9:45, loaded up & we were off about 10:30. It was drizzling but this soon turned into a steady downpour which became heavier as we sloshed & slipped down the trail. Reached camp about noon. Down about

[illegible]

Monday 13 July 1953 (cont) Middle Camp to Bottom Camp 3000 feet. Litter came in about ½ hour later. Boys did a fine job on a bad trail-- no slips. Len dressed cut today--healing nicely. (Changed wet clothes. Had a cup of tea; boys rigged our tent; checked my collecting gear; heard latest news from Ken. Clouds broke & thru the cut tree opening in the edge of the rain forest we could see Fir Tree Point & much of coast to west. Lowland forests spread out beneath us. In sun below most of P.M. Put out 10 mouse traps, took 1 shot at bats, went jacking for an hour. Shot at 1 Gecko 4 times but he would not fall. Found a frog for Geoff--very tiny (½ inch)--noise like a cricket. Woods very wet, good frog chorus here. One small stream near camp has cut a shallow shute thru the rock. Saw at least 4 species of bats over camp--including 1 Flying Fox (6-6:30 P.M.) Tuesday 14 July Bottom Camp 195 Nothing in traps. A misty day with some drizzle. Put out 25 more traps. Boys spent most of day putting camp in shape: log flooring between tents & fly, building patta-pattas, digging latrine, felling trees. We have a good steady water supply--stream a few minutes walk to west of camp. Jacking for bats (6 to 6:30 P.M.)--a few went by camp but had no shots. Jacking after dinner--was lucky to see a Pogonomyss running up tree--missed with a .410 #12 but a 12 ga. #6 found him. Fortunately only 3 shot hit him. David out but no luck. Either very little here or hard to see because of forest height. Ants eating bait on traps. Wednesday 15 July 196 This looks like a lean collecting camp for me--I had only 1 rat out of 34 traps; LikLik 0 - 25. However, the one (caught at base of vine covered tree) was a new one for the collection. M. F. 0 - 2 = 4. Believe it is a Pogono melomys--distal tip of tail dorsally prehensile for about 15 mm.--a relatively short tail. Ken and David left for Biniguni after breakfast. David to return Friday P.M. Niko arrived in camp about 11:00 from B. where he had been shifting our gear. He will work for Len now. Jimmy was given his release this A.M. -- too apt to be a trouble-maker and Len says he was stealing betel nut from his tent. There was much conventionalized loud wailing from the boys when he left. However, they were laughing & smiling 10 minutes later. Gave Isilele 33 traps (11 rat--22 M.S.), Kim (10 r.- 3 steel), Losima (9 rat- 4 st.), LikLik (8 more--all rat-total 33); I have 23 M.S. & 10 rat. Have only a few steels left. Overcast all P.M. but no rain. Out jacking for 2 hrs. Coll. another Pogonomyss (dim eye shine)-- small tree 10' up. G's boys jacking frogs & spiders. Thursday 16 July 197 Kim brought in a small rusty Bandicoot from his trap line ¼ mi. W. of camp near the lovely Mt. brook--our first specimen for Maneau. LikLik had 1 Rattus Leucopus also new for M. This P.M. Kim, L-L, & Isilele chopped down large tree near camp & found another new Pogonomyss in small hole. Quality not quantity at this camp. Geoff tells me that last night a small rat (?) ran down the fly side pole & stood watching him. No machete. Caught small lizard in M.S. Geoff made his way to mountain river about an hour's walk from camp. 2 falls of 50 ft. each. Good volume of water. A.M. was beautiful. Sun felt good. Could see Cape Nelson & its volcanic mountains. Bearing on tip 50° W. of N. Overcast this P.M. but clear now 6 P.M. A leisurely day for me. Good lather bath after lunch. We all have scrub itch--caused by mites which lie in wait on rotten logs. Legs, crotch & waist. We all scratch! Jacking tonight gave me a new mammal for camp--long- legged Leptomys--saw him hopping on ground (very large compared to those at Middle Camp). Also heard squeaking in woods nearby--had another Leptomys in steel meat set. No luck bat shooting.

[illegible]

Friday 17 July 1953 Bottom Camp It as LikLik's turn to bring in a Bandicoot--large o no spiny hairs. Kim had 2 Rattus--one badly chewed by ants. After measuring catch Geoff and I left at 9:30 for the Atairo River falls. About 3/4 hour walk down long ridge to east of camp. Last pitch covered with stone rubble. River has cut wide deep gorge thru the escarpment. Hard ledges have made a lovely 2 stage water fall which falls into a rounded rock bowl which holds a pool of green water. About 100 ft. fall. Water then runs into series of cascades. A beautiful spot. G. & I took pictures while the boys chased butterflies--little powder blues. A stiff climb out of gorge. Made up skins in P.M. LikLik and I went jacking over 1st part of river trail. Coll. a large gray & black Gecko which threw its tail when I picked it up. Heard Flying Foxes but did not see them. Isilele went down to Biniguni at 1:30 to take jack light and gun to David and to bring up more traps. Back about 6:00. David jacked 2 Cuscus and 2 Foxes on way home. Both new for Maneau. Saturday 18 July Losima's turn to bring in the prize--a Giant Rat caught in a steel trap meat set. Hyomys-like tail but can not pin down unless it is the lowland Uromys. Nothing in other traps. Ken arrived in camp unexpectedly. He and David and some of locals have been working on our Biniguni river camp. All ready for us to move into on the 27th. Losima's steel traps had a "native cat" this P.M. Makes 10 species for camp. Ken jacked up the trail & David down--nothing except a frog. Misty P.M. & sprinkling tonight. Ken brought up some ripe bananas--good! Kim made a fine rice pudding tonight. David put out 53 traps & Isilele & LikLik 15 more apiece. Set shooting for bats--no luck. Sunday 19 July A beautiful morning with big cumulus passing over. LikLik brought in a new mouse (genus?)--something like the mystery mouse at #2 camp. David caught a Giant Rat (probably Uromys) in a steel set. Tonight at 5:45 Ken & I made another attempt to obtain the bat I have seen in the woods a few yds. from camp. This time I winged one & it turned out to be a Hipposideros. Just at dark I shot a small broad-nosed bat over my tent. 2 new species for the mountain. Went out jacking for a few minutes after dinner. Saw a "native cat" prowling, but did not collect (missed him as he disappeared around a tree). A few feet further on I shone the eyes of a small rodent in low tree. My 3rd new species in 3 hrs. May be a Melomys but one I don't know yet. David jacked to water fall. Saw & heard nothing. 15 species in one week! Have been on Maneau 2 months now. Have only scratched surface. Monday 20 July Had 2 mammals in my trapline this A.M. Most unusual at this camp. A Rattus Leucopus (David had 2) and a 2nd small mouse with long ears & hind legs (still don't know name). Another Giant Rat also trapped. The old counselor from Biniguni arrived soon after noon with the mail bag! Letters 18 & 19 from K., 4 letters from Mother, note from Rus, also from Dr. Tate, & B. Whipple. All June issues of "Time". Work was finished early so we could read & write. Drizzled most of P.M. No jacking. Poor bat flight. All well at home except Uncle Will who is not well, but nothing serious. Last postmark July 6. Wrote Kay, Mother, Dr. Tate, Rus, & B. W. Also sent last roll of Maneau Middle Camp film. Len & Geoff recd. some Menapi color film processed in Australia--poor. Stayed up until midnight writing. A very happy day. Geoff had word from Miriam that Dr. Tate, who suffers from Leukemia had been taken to Memorial Hospital. May mean end of his Museum work.

[illegible]

Tuesday21 July 1953 Bottom Cqmp Happy 17th birthday "Dory"! Hope you are having a fine celebration at our Wentworth farm. Can hardly believe you are so grown up! We'll try to give you many more happy years. Almost blanked today--David had a young q "native cat" in trap. About noon Len's boys brought in a live Bandicoot on a pole (had lost its tail). Ken left for Biniguni in A.M. taking mail with him. He sent 2 carriers up to camp this P.M. with extra meat. They took my knockdown box full of Middle Camp specimens down with them. Sunny A.M. but threatened rain all P.M. A leisurely day--shave and bath. Going bat shooting now. Hope to get my 100th specimen. Ticked a Hipposideros but, after hanging up for a few seconds in small tree, flew away. Collected a banded tail Gecko for Geoff--2 species now. Found a wild fig tree where Macroglossus was feeding. Kept firing at them until all shells gone. The day ended at 999. Will try again tomorrow night. Wednesday 22 July David had a native cat in rat trap! 3 Rattus also came in. 1003 specimens 4 months to the day after the start at Wenapi. A blue sunny A.M. Took picture of Geoff at his work bench, and one of trees and sky. Heavy overcast all P.M. Moon out tonight. Moved my steel traps & 10 M.S. to location up hill. Spent 3 hours in the dry streamed trying to collect small blossom bat. Finally coll. 1 but he is badly shot up. Back in camp I found a huge flying Fox that David had collected. Have never seen such a monster. Now have 17 species for this camp but only 38 specimens. Kim gave us a new dish for lunch--sausage rolls- excel lent. A troop of Hornbills (7) flew over camp in A.M. Their wings make a tremendous whirring. Had a yellow-bellied skink in trap. Shot another Gecko tonight and coll. 2 tiny frogs. Thursday 25 July Had a Bandicoot in my new meat set. 2 Rattus and 2 Pogonomys also came in--the latter found in small holes high in large trees. Flower-flower boy, Niko, 1,& David who had a Giant bat hung up in big tree, the other. A good day for this camp. Both bats measured over 5 feet in wing spread (5'4" & 5'6")--large heads with small ears and big eyes. Body fur yellowish-brown--muzzle covered with a greenish pollen. Took pictures of boys & myself holding bats to show span. Spell from jacking. Short heavy rain before supper. Geoff wrapped frogs today-- a few over 200--a fine collection. The boys have been collecting every night for a week. Scratched my scrub itch for a while, read & had a good night's sleep. Friday 24 July Only 1 Rattus. Made up the 2 Giant Bats--each takes a board by itself ! Will have to carry pinned in coll. trunk to Biniguni camp--they won't dry before Monday. Have rigged my wire trays over lamp in tent today to dry specimens. Wrapped a few. Len collected at water fall. Rained off and on all day-- general bad weather, not low clouds. Thin clouds drifting in tonight--moon trying to break thru. Jacked for 1/2 hour tonight--conditions poor. Shot another band-tailed Gecko (#795). Kim baked a good apricot pie for dinner-- fine crust. Have been trying for the last hour to catch a frog just in back of tent. He calls every wet night. Noticed that he had a 7 minute call period. Just as the red-bellied frog, that I first found at Top Camp, calls from a position in the humus so does this one. Finally caught him(#794)--dull olive brown--2" long--big bellied. New for collection.

[illegible]

Saturday 25 July 1953 Bottom Camp Kim had a Uromys; this and a Rattus was our catch. All traps came in this A.M. & packed in 3 swags. Our mountain work is just about over. Had lamp going in tent all day to dry specimens. A dull rainy day. Let up after 4:00 and LikLik Isilele and I had one more go at the long-tongued blossom bats feeding on the small-fruited fig tree in the dry gully just west of camp. Hard to collect as they darted up to the trailing fruit branches like humming birds. Eyes shine brightly. Brought home 2. Soft-brown. No tails. Sunday 26 July Last day at Bottom Camp. Finished packing my collecting boxes. Made up 2 bats. Will have to carry several trays of pinned out specimens in my special collecting box. Have another black box full of specimens. Some rain in A.M. but clearing in P.M. Saw small meteorite flash in sky about 6:30. Stars showing tonight. Finished packing skins & skulls. Geoff and I are relaxing tonight, reading on our beds--luxury. Several carriers have arrived. They will leave early tomorrow with our tents & flys for Biniguni Camp. Bama huta, Maneau! Monday 27 July Bottom Camp to Biniguni Camp on the Gwariu River. Up at 6 A.M. Rolled swags, struck tents & flys (sent special carriers off with these) & lined up loads for main carrier body. Lucky with weather--a sunny dry morning. Several women climbed up to camp to carry for us. One had "bau bau" (section of bamboo) pipe (2 in. dia.). They suck smoke into chamber from a cigarette inserted in hole at one end; the cigarette is removed, the smoke is air-cooled. Then they inhale this smoke (there may be enough for 4 or 5 people). Light not too good but I took pictures. Left camp at 8:50, trail fairly dry. The 3 counselors & our party brought up the rear. Reached Ginum River (dry bed) at foot of Maneau Range escarpment about 9:45. Trail then goes N.W. along foot of range, past the gorge of the Gwariu River which drains the south and west slopes of Maneau Range & then cuts N. thru Range. Arrived in our new camp about 11:00 A.M. It is located on N. bank of Gwariu River on an old terrace about 50 yds. from the water. Water vol. is good, clear & steady. Local mt. storms muddy it occasionally. Cold, good drinking water. Our 3 tent and work fly are in one line facing river. Cook fly on next lower terrace, & boys' fly is in back of us just inside forest edge. "Australian Pine" grows in & about camp & "pine needles" cover the sandy bouldery ground. Ken picked a fine site & prepared a good camp. Only danger is flash flood, but it would have to be a big one to put camp in trouble. Natives have cleared garden slopes in the rain forest across river. Sorted my gear out and boys rigged my bed & mosquito net(haven't used this since last May). Took pictures of the women cooking vegetables for men. Had heated stones over fire, put veg. on banana leaves, poured water over stones & when steaming covered whole area with more leaves. Carriers paid off after Kai--a very cheerful lot. One boy from Biniguni brought Geoff a 6 ft. snake he had been saving in a gourd. G. had quite a time getting him out & into the formalin can. At dusk I shot my first small bat for this camp--very tiny ears. Good dinner: stew, yams, "pumpkin" (squash), Taro, bananas, camp-baked bread. Ken told us there was an eclipse of the moon last night. I slept right thru it. Said Biniguni natives were all excited-- worried. Ken is bunking with me. He leaves for Baiawa next Monday with our first out shipment of specimens, excess gear & food. The end of the mainland phase of the trip is coming close. Boys had a wonderful time bathing in river as did we. We can see the northern Goropu peaks to the west down the valley. It is good to relax again. Weather is still unsettled--alternate overcast & sun & drizzle.

[illegible]

Tuesday 28 July 1953 Gwariu River Camp. Today marks our 6th month away from home! Another 4 months and we will be packing for the trip home. We gave all our boys a holiday today. They fixed their camp, washed clothes, blankets & themselves in river. We are doing our own cooking. Made up my bat. Ken, Geoff and I walked to Biniguni to visit the rest house & check on supplies & specimens. All seem in good shape. Brought back my pillow, blanket & more tow to camp. B. is about 1 mile N. of camp thru rain forest & gardens. Spent a quiet afternoon airing clothes & bedding, shaving, writing. Will not put traps out until tomorrow & no jacking. Kim came home about 5 P.M. with a small bat which one of the village boys had given him to deliver to me. A new species for the Expedition--a free-tail bat only 51 mm. T.L. Measured & skinned before dinner. Ken cooked a delicious dinner of pigeon & vegetables in his pressure cooker. Relaxing again tonight. Village men leaving for a week's hunt tomorrow. Ken has asked them to bring back what mammals they can save for me. I don't know what to expect. Ken mentioned casually to me that one of the men had shown him a porcupine skull. We stopped at his house & surely enough he had a partial skull with long beak intact! People of any region are always so casual about their native animals even though to us it may be extremely rare. Same in Australia. And it is hard to make even Ken realize their importance--to me. Wednesday 29 July Stayed in bed until 6:30. Cool sleeping & the rush of the river lulls you to sleep. Ken & I talked until midnight about New Guinea & its people; then we went to cook fly to make hot bouillon. Poor Len is usually awake at 3, 4, 5 & rarely goes back to sleep again. Every little noise seems to disturb him. G. is a snorer so it is just as well that we have our own tents again. Ken & I sleep like logs. Made up my bat after breakfast & then Ken, Len & I walked into Biniguni. I packed study skins into knockdown boxes. Also packed spare traps, heavy clothes & coll. gear in black boxes to go down on first carry to Baiawa. Ken & I came back for late lunch of delicious vegetables. We set our first traps this P.M.--35 rat, 20 Mus. Sp. Will jack tonight for first time. 6:00 P.M. and time for bat shooting. Thursday 30 July Did not hit any bats last night. Jacking produced nothing (1½ hrs). Heard flying foxes & saw small bats on trail. Trapping gave us 4 species 2 Rattus and 2 Melomys--7 specimens. Back to the old routine again. We have a fine skinning table pata pata with a single flattened log as a seat for the 4 of us. Ken jacked a Dobsonia & also brought in 2 Geckos. Day overcast with light drizzle this P.M. No stars tonight. We are living high again: had pressure cooked pigeon twice today as well as our fine assortment of vegetables. Also bananas & apricots mixed for desert. These dried apricots are very good either dry or cooked (taste like jam). Went jacking tonight & shot 1 Uromys (giant rat) that was wandering about on ground; also a 2nd. but could not find him. Found 1 Gecko for Geoff. Ken has arranged for runner to go out with mail on Saturday. Practically all the village is out on a hunting trip getting food for a big feast 2 weeks from now. It is doubtful if we stay here more than 3 or 4 weeks. We may move 1/2 way down to the coast for remaining time. This is mostly 2nd growth rain forest & rather poor picking for Len. Virgin r.f. north of Biniguni. We are writing to charter a boat to pick us up at Baiawa (2nd week Sept).

[illegible]

Friday 31 July 1953 Gwariu River Camp Jacking last night gave me 2 giant rats (Uromys). I was a short distance out on the Biniguni track & the rats were only a few feet off the trail hunting on the ground. David shot at a white Cuscus but it kept on going up the tree. Climbed for it this A.M. & found it in the same tree. Weighed 13½ lbs. Also had a large pouch young. Did not go out tonight. Wrote letters to K., Art Richmond, Alcide & the others in Prep. Corps, & Uncle Will. Sending out my last Maneau film. Saturday 1 August David jacked a new Cuscus last night--grayish-brown with a dorsal stripe. 2 very tiny pouch young. Much excitement this A.M. Women from various villages showed up with all kinds of vegetables. Ken did the buying--weighed each string bag full & paid off with salt & newspaper which they use for rolling cigarettes. Very photogenic crowd. Took at least a roll of film. Light not too good. Very happy people & it certainly helps to have a man who can talk their language. Some of the women were carrying young babies in their string bags. My boys were not too sharp on skinning today--had been chewing betel nut which is available in good supply here in Biniguni. Tonight just after dinner Tuasi & a friend showed up lugging a huge Python they had caught several hours walk from camp. Ken finally paid off with 5 shillings, package of 10 razor blades, 24 boxes of matches & an empty tobacco tin! We also hope that they will bring in some mammals. The head & tail of the snake were lashed to a pole. Geoff got his specimen into a bag & this is now in the river weighted down with stones. Rain tonight--did not go out. David out early. Shot a "flying squirrel". Sunday 2 August Lik Lik was the only successful trapper--2 Rattus & 1 Melomys. Ken brought the Python up from river--quite dead from his night in the water. We all had a guess at its length. My 13 feet was the closest (13'6" & wgt. 29½ lbs.). I helped Geoff skin it after we took pictures. I also went thru intestinal tract looking for mammal remains--found 2 toe nails & an ankle bone. Very likely a small Wallaby. After lunch Ken & David packed off to Biniguni to spend the night & wait for carriers. Hope he has good weather & carriers for the move to Baiawa. Geoff took his boys down river to a big pool to try to net fish. Only a few prawns & small fish--this is where the natives spear eating fish. Ken sent us 3 pigeons for dinner--Kim fixes them in the pressure cooker. This A.M. while washing by the river I had an unexpected swim--my boot slipped on a rock & I did a slow motion roll into a pool of water--so I took a morning bath. Jacking tonight w ith Isilele. Saw one flying fox & shot a Rattus almost at my feet. Collected 2 frogs for Geoff. Isilele smelled a Cusccus but we could not find it. No luck with bat shooting before dinner. Saw a 4th kind tonight--high flyer. Monday 3 August Another poor trap night--only 3 Rattus. A beautiful morning for Ken. Len botanized around Biniguni this A.M. & looked in rest house. Only 3 unimportant double loads remained. About 35 carriers must have showed up. All my Maneau skins are in this carry. Light rain this P.M. but this is probably local. Ken should get all his loads to Moi Biri Bay & then by canoe to Baiawa without wetting. Walked down stream this P.M. The south bank is a steep hillside cleared in many places for gardens. Deep gullies run down to the river & big scrub covers the hill above the garden patches. Kim, Lik Lik & Isilele are cutting jacking trails in this scrub. Met an old man coming up river trail with string bag full of Okari nuts--he sold them to us for a few boxes of matches. This is the staple

[illegible]

Monday 3 August 1955 River Camp (cont) eating nut in this part of New Guinea. About 2 inches long x 1/2 inch wide-- excellent white meat. Very good roasted. Kim & Lik Lik went jacking--shot at a Cuscus but it disappeared in the leaves. Wrote Mrs. Stocklebach & John Pallister. Tuesday 4 August This morning (about 3:15) Len woke me up & said a dog was howling near camp. I dressed and went out to see if he were caught in my steel trap set. Took 3 boys with me. Sure enough a small tan & white native dog was caught by the toes of a front foot. Threw a burlap sack over him & he quieted immediately. Sprung the trap & he ran off into the woods. Told boys to set all steels across the river. May bring them all in soon. They have yielded nothing at this camp. Good trap night. Young Uromys, 2 kinds of Rattus & Melomys--9 specimens. Geoff took Losima & Billy off for the day to visit the Rakua River. Found the river but no crocs. Len & I were here all day working. Unpinned some Bottom Camp specimens. Shot a Hipposideros in the flyway I found among the Casurina trees a few days ago. Out at 7:30 with Isilele. Shot an Antechinus (2nd for trip) that ran along the ground beside the Biniguni track. A few minutes later I collected our first Dactylopsila (striped possum) for the trip. Beautiful black and white marking and a long hairy tail. 3 new species for the day! Wednesday 5 August Only 3 Rattus in traps. Several visitors wandered into camp from Budumaga soon after breakfast. They had heard that we were buying spears, but they were too late--Geoff has already bought 3 for his Brooklyn apartment! At the end of 1 spear dangled a Melomys which I bought for a box of matches. Another man had a lovely frilled lizard which Geoff bought for matches & a razor blade; also 2 coconuts for a piece of newspaper. 2 carriers came in from Quagira with pack cloths, a pigeon (which we Kai kaied for dinner) and a note saying that all of our specimens had reached the Baiawa rest house safely. He is going to the village of Maneau today; he and David will sleep there and collect bats in a nearby cave tomorrow A.M. and come out to camp about mid-day. Isilele walked into camp this P.M. with 5 steel traps on a pole and a big Goana (lizard) with a foot in each trap. The Mammal Dept. is doing its best for the Herp. Dept. Kim came back with a "native cat" from his steels--our first for the locality. (16 species now) Isilele and I jacked for 2 hours tonight (Biniguni trail)--a Melomys in a pandanus was our only specimen--altho we heard many stirrings in the leaves. A beautiful day and a starry night. We had scrub hen scrambled eggs for breakfast. 2 eggs made a big plate & we had egg sandwiches for morning tea & egg in the shepherd's pie for lunch. Goropu was clear at various times today & the outline was sharp against the lemon evening sky. Thursday 6 August This started out as a normal day but ended with a bang. We skinned & I made up our few trap specimens in the morning. Just after lunch Ken & David arrived back in camp from Baiawa, via Manea0a. David brought me a Wallaby skull & Ken 2 plastic bags full of small bats--Hipposideros --all 1 species. There are a number of small caves in an isolated mass of limestone just north of the village of Manea0a. Ken paid 2 natives to crawl in & collect these bats in Iamai cave. I was right in the middle of cataloging, labeling, & dunking them in formalin when a police runner arrived with mail. Letters from K., Mother & Rus Peterson. Then another native arrived from Manea0a with 2 more clusters of bats, including 13 large Hipposideros (1 bright orange). Just as I finished these and sat down with the fruits of an afternoon hunt: 9 Pogonomys, 2 Melomys, and 45 small,

[illegible]

Thursday 6 August 1953 (cont.) River Camp broad-nosed bats. Ken paid them off with salt, matches, paper & salt which they take to their families. It was a sight to see them coming in with bats clutched in fists & bats dangling from bits of vine. I was just as excited as they were, but wondered if I would ever get a chance at my mail. Saved a few specimens out to make up dry tomorrow. Read the latest "Time" (July 6) after dinner & then wrote letters & addressed 3 color films. 225 specimens for the day. It was good of Ken to go out of his way to do this favor for me. Friday 7 August Nothing in traps but we had a few bats & rats to make up from yesterday. Our mail runner arrived back from Baniara, also with mail (from Kay & Dory--a fine long letter). Finished skins late in P.M. & after dinner I spent several hours cataloging. Lik Lik and Isilele out jacking but home early--no luck. David & Kim out also but Ken suspected them of visiting in village & not jacking. So we waited up for them. Finally home about 11:30 but would admit nothing. The other boys knew where they had gone but insisted that they were jacking across the river. Ken was just about to send all the boys out in the forest to search for them when Kim & David showed up--from the direction of Biniguni. We are trying to guard against their stirring up any trouble in the villages (women) which might upset our carrier agreements. Ailsa sent me 6 chocolate bars! Saturday 8 August Only 3 Rattus in camp, but 2 small boys showed up with a Flying Fox (Dobsonia). Finished these up & spent the P.M. unpinning, wrapping, & packing another black box full of skins to be sent down to Baiawa next Monday. Ken and David left late in P.M. to go on a water rat hunt that the chief had organized for my benefit (and for salt!). They may spend the night. I don't know how far away the streams are but they are west of here and run into the Maiu River. Details tomorrow. My gang showed up just before dinner with 8 more Pogonomys! Am going to bed early tonight. I smell a busy day tomorrow. Bought some Okari nuts for a box of matches--best nuts we have had yet. Kim baked a fine apricot pie tonight. I can't imagine to what genus these water rats belong--they are said to be small. Sunday 9 August Ken arrived back in camp this A.M. after a fruitless water rat hunt. However, they did bring in a Dactylopsila and a tiny sheath-tailed bat. This plus the Pogonomys and 2 Rattus in traps gave me 12 specimens for the day. After lunch Lukim came over from Biniguni with a Wallaby skull--a new one for the collection. We hope to get a complete one before we leave the area. Paid for it with salt. Ken went over Daga names of local animals with Lukim. A Python and a Carpet snake were brought in by village boys for Geoff and just before dinner our boys found a small snake at the river edge which he grabbed with a forceps. Heavy shower for short time this P.M.--our first in some time. The village hunters are back from their pig hunt and plan their feast later this week. Ken may not be able to get carriers for tomorrow. A Government patrol officer, Peter O'Sullivan, may arrive in Biniguni tomorrow and one of the Cape Vogel missionaries may come thru on tour later in week. They need carriers also & it may muss our moving schedule up. We would like to break camp here next Friday. Total specimens for last week 260. Total for first 20 weeks 1302. David, Isilele & LikLik out jacking tonight.

[illegible]

Monday 10 August 1953 River Camp Poor trapping--2 Rattus & 1 Melomys. No carriers showed up. Ken and I went into Biniguni at 1:00 P.M. Boys brought Box 39 full of study skins over to rest house. Finished packing skull box #28. Both light so they were lashed together to make a double load. Counselor and other men came over to talk to Ken. They have agreed to make the carry to Moi Biri Bay tomorrow. My boys came back to camp and I gave them each 10 steels and 15 rats. David walked over to Maiu River with them to show spots for water rat trapping. A long walk but a couple of night's trapping should turn up something of interest. Also sent over 10 Museum specials for Ken to use in rest house. My gang brought in 11 more Pogonomys this afternoon--cost, 8 boxes of matches & some newspaper. Another native brought Geoff a large Python. Out jacking tonight for an hour. Shot at two small bats in trail. Heard Flying Foxes. Heavy shower in late P.M. Had a good bath in river--with small boys looking on with great interest. Tuesday 11 August My boys were off at 7:30 to run their traps on the Maiu River. Did not get back to camp until 10:30. Nothing important--2 species of Rattus that we have taken here near camp. While we were at lunch a native from Budumaga came in with 4 Hipposideros which I bought with paper & matches. They are slightly larger than the ones from Maneaoca & have longer tail but most measurements are the same. A narrow, light colored eye ring was conspicuous. I also received 2 Pogonomys that the village boys found in a tree near camp. 4 more of the same arrived late in P.M. 11 carriers came in early to take excess food down to the next village on the track to the coast. Ken's carriers had a dry day for the trip to the Coast. Gear should be in rest house in Baiawa by now (8 P.M.). There is only 1 tide per day on this coast and it was supposed to be high around 5 P.M. Canoes can only come up the creek at high water to the landing. Made up 11 skins today & finished just at dusk. Had a refreshing bath in the river which gave me a good appetite for pigeon soup, flaked crab meat (bought from native who came up from coast--we boiled the crabs--Geoff was going to pickle 2 as specimens but relented), pigeon stew, yam, squash, sweet potato & stewed apricot. A delegation of Maisina tribe men & women arrived in Biniguni today from the Cape Nelson area. Women wear cloth skirts instead of grass skirts and many have cropped hair or shaved heads. They make tapa cloth for trade. Dance tonight. Wednesday 12 August Boys off early to bring in traps from the Maiu. Only 2 Rattus. Had 1 Melomys in my trap line. 2 of "my gang" brought in 8 more Pogonomys. Geoff was down river with his boys netting fish in A.M. Had a good catch. Saved a few for specimens, but they turned over most of them to cook for lunch. They were #1. Ken & David arrived back in camp at 2:30 P.M. from Baiawa. All gear down at rest house safely. Shot 2 large pigeons on way home--cooked in pressure cooker for dinner. Delicious white meat. Niko, LikLik,Isilele and I went down the Gwariu stream bed to set 30 water traps for water rats. There are a number of cascades that tumble down the escarpment & end in deeps pools before flowing into the Gwariu or Maiu. The cascade of Biniguni Creek at old Biniguni village is a lovely run of water. We set our traps along the quiet pools & reaches. Had my sneakers on & did a good deal of wading. Saw junction of M. & G. & followed a flower-flower trail home. About a 2 hour jaunt. Home for a good swim in river. The rum and good fellowship flowed more freely tonight & the dinner was excellent. No jacking & home too late to bait traps. Heavy shower in P.M. Clear tonight.

[illegible]

Thursday 13 August 1953 River Camp Our last day at this camp & a busy one. Boys only had 1 Rattus in river traps-- no water rats. Also 2 Rattus in local traps. Wrapped all dry skins and packed 3 boards with pinned out material. Gauze wrapped all formalin specimens. Re- packed all my black boxes & boys lashed them to poles for carriers. Late in P.M. a few boys came in with 15 Pogonomys, 10 small bats & a live striped Possum (Dactylnax) which I was glad to have--only my 3rd for the trip. I will skin him tomorrow at our new camp. I had to break out the formalin again to save the rats and bats. This should run my total close to 1400 now. Should have at least 1500 before we leave for Samarai. Once we leave tomorrow we will really be saying good bye to Maneau. A heavy rain is coming down & Ken is worrying about whether or not carriers will show up tomorrow or not. They have never failed him yet. He has really done a remarkable job for us. His command of the language, his understanding & liking for the natives have made our road easy. We also have plenty of tobacco and salt! and newspaper. Good night, darling. I'll be closer to home tomorrow! Friday 14 August Gwariu River Camp to Peria River Camp. 7:30--Biniguni at 7:50; Budumaga at 8:10; Opaigwari at 8:40; Peria River 9:20. Up early, flys & tents down, folded & packed. Carriers started coming in early. More than enough. Ken has done it once again. Kim & I started off ahead. Partly cloudy but the humidity was high so the walking was hot. Last close views of the escarpment--shrouded in clouds. Ken & Geoff arrived about 20 minutes later & Len about 10:00. This carry was a picnic for the men & they arrived at the river singing. Pay off lasted about an hour & I took what pictures I could at 3.5 and 1/25. I skinned and made up the striped possum that I bought last night. Boys also caught 2 Melomys while clearing camp site in the fork between the 2 rivers. When we came thru here in May the water was running 2 feet deep, but now there is only a trickle in the Peria. Water is filtered thru sand and is good drinking water. Ken & boys rigged camp most of day. Ken and I are camped off on the west bank where we get the morning sun & afternoon shade. Police runner came in with mail. Letters from Mother, Don Carter & Don Vernon. Wrote to Mother & Kay. Runner staying over night. No jacking or traps tonight. Women brought in loads of vegetables after dark from Opaigwari--wonderful Taro and pumpkin tops for greens. Also some beautiful sugar cane (red). Geoff and I found a good swimming hole and had a good soap & soak. Saturday 15 August Peria River Camp Today we saw our first white man in months. The missionary, Father Rogers, from Mukawa on the north side of the Cape Vogel Peninsula. He came down to Baiawa by sailing outrigger and came up the track on way to Opaigwari. We had met him for a few minutes back in Menapi when he & Father Chisholm came back from a patrol. Stayed for morning tea and then pushed on. From Sydney. A very likeable man-- young. Did up the Pogonomys. Fixing camp most of day. Boys built a good pata pata and work bench for the mammal department. We put out 10 traps each. Good bat flight over river bed. Shot 1 tiny sheath tail before dinner (same as the ones from Biniguni area). Jacked with Isilele and shot a Hipposideros on trail. Collected a striped Possum on way home. David saw a Wallaby and a Bandicoot but no luck. However, he did find a small bat caught in a bush. I do not know the genus but it has golden hairs down the arms and legs and fur is tri-colored like a Pipistrellus. New for the collection. Read & talked late with Ken. Sunday 16 August A quiet day in camp--it really seemed like Sunday. Made up specimens.

[illegible]

Sunday 16 August 1955 Peria River Camp (cont.) Issued more traps to boys: D. 40; L.L. 40; I. 40; Kim 5; Losima 5; myself 20. Still have a few Museum Specials left. Father Rogers sent a note saying he would take out any mail we had ready tomorrow. Wrote Avice to thank her for ship- board pictures (The Garth, Bath Rd., Chippenham, Wilts, England). Everyone out collecting today. Ken shot 2 pigeons for dinner tonight. Cooked in pressure cooker--good. Shot 2 Hipposideros over river junction. This is a wonderful spot for frogs. David shot at a pig. Monday 17 August Only 2 Rattus and 1 Melomys in traps. Both Hipposideros had large single embryos. Father Rogers at our invitation had lunch with us on way back to coast. Very pleasant meal. He left a few limes & 4 eggs with us that had been given to him at the native mission station. Made up skins. Quite a bit of thunder in P.M. but no rain here. Ken is cooking up a plan to combine a carry to Baiawa and a visit to Tapio to visit the caves. He will sample the bats there & look over the small boat anchorage in preparation for our planned trip there on way back to Samarai. Cool breeze this P.M. but overcast. Shot 2 more Hipposideros at dusk. Jumped a Bandicoot while jacking but it got away from me in underbrush. Isilele and I were following the old government track (to Budumaga) which comes into the river junction just at our camp site in the fork. Tuesday 18 August Our first water rat of the trip sniffed at the bait on 1 of my traps, was clinked on the head & rolled over & expired by the side of the trap. About 30 yards from water. David had a small Bandicoot -- our first for this camp. Geoff's boys brought in about 200 frogs last night & he has been labelling all morning. Losima was washing clothes in a river pool near camp when a Cassowary walked across the stream bed a few yards away. He was so excited and amazed at the size that he could only wave his arms up and down. Ken rushed around trying to find his gun and ammo--too late, fortunately. Len says G. liver is excellent. Wrapped study skins in P.M. Another box full for Ken to take to Baiawa tomorrow. The Government patrol officer, Peter O'Sullivan, his native police and carriers came down the track from Biniguni at noon. He stayed for lunch and for a long talk. Left about middle of P.M. for Kwagira. He had carried in a bottle of rum for L. & G. and a bottle of ginger beer for me. Had a slight stomach upset and went to bed early. Diodoquin fixed me up quickly. We had fried eggs for breakfast. Opaigwari boys brought in 8 more Pogonomys. Wednesday 19 August New Rattus in traps. Makes 12 species for this camp. Made up Pogonomys. Carriers arrived at 9 A.M. Waited out a heavy shower & were off at 9:45 for Moi Biri landing. Peter & Ken planned to canoe over together. 2 striped possums were brought in today--paid 2 boxes matches, 1 razor blade & 3 sheets of news- paper apiece. Later some boys brought in 6 Pogonomys in a big gourd. Took Niko jacking with me tonight. Flying Foxes up river but did not get any. Saw a small rat swimming in pool. Went up bank & among tree roots. May be something very good. Will trap for it tomorrow. A little further on we saw what we thought was Wallaby crossing the river bed. Turned out to be a Giant Bandicoot--31 inches long & weighed 10½ pounds ! We could hardly believe our eyes. Feeling fine today. Native caught eel in front of camp & roasted it in coals of his fire. Thursday 20 August

[illegible]

Thursday 20 August 1953 (cont.) Peria River Camp 203 Only a Rattus in traps. Heavy rain from midnight to 3. Sprang traps or spoiled bait—or something. Had the boys skin out the Bandicoot flat. Did a good job. Awani people came down with vegetables which Geoff bought with salt and paper. They also brought a 13'10" Python which his boys skinned. One man brought me a striped possum—have a good series now. Gave the Bandicoot body to the Awani women who washed it in the river & cooked it over boys' fire. In P.M. some young boys showed up from Opaigwari with another Giant Bandicoot (this however weighed only 6 lbs.) and a small broad-nosed bat. Finished them all before dinner. Set traps around pool where I saw water rat. They found Bandicoot in a form under a fallen tree. Jacking tonight yielded nothing. Heard flying foxes but did not have a shot. Home at 9 P.M. and am reading one of Geoff's detective stories for a change. Friday 21 August 204 Nothing in traps. However, I had 2 live Pogonomys from the day before (also 3 more but they gnawed a hole in the black box and departed during the night). Awani and Kwagira people came in with vegetables about noon. Run on salt & paper. Some fine bananas & Taro. About 2 P.M. I took my boys down the Kwagira trail to the first river crossing—fine run of water. Cut over to the Peria—about 200 yds away—also running here (but not at camp). Flood plain area, high grass. Waded up river to camp. Here I found a lot of boys from Opaigwari with specimens for me— Pogonomys, Petaurus, and a lot of small broad-nosed bats. More matches & paper & everyone was happy. Jacking tonight: 1 Dobsonia, saw a small bandicoot, shot a 6 ft. tree snake (new for collection). Police runner came in while I was out. Capt. Smith will be at Baiawa to pick us up on Sept. 16. No mail but a bundle of newspapers. Runner saw Ken at Pem—on way to Tapio. Ruled note book. Have almost 1500 specimens now. Saturday 22 August 205 The end of our 22nd week in the field. We began our work just 5 months ago today at Menapi. Almost 1500 specimens in the book. We had 2 Rattus and a dark Melomys in traps. Made 14 skins up today—kept me at my work bench all day. Poor Geoff got bushed this A.M. and did not get back to camp until 1:30. He walks and walked wasting all that collecting time he could put in on intensive collecting near camp. New insects walk across my skinning board every day. Lovely moon tonight. LikLik found a small cuscus on river bank after dinner. It ran up a tree & Isilele after it. Then it fell out of tree & scampered off thru the forest with Niko, Billy, L.L. and I. in chase—they caught it. Lik Lik is as proud as punch. This is his first jacking specimen. Ken should be at Tapio today. What bats will he find? I. & L.L. have new trap lines. Sunday 23 August 206 Only 1 Rattus in new lines. Tommy had 3 in David's line. These plus a Uromys, 4 Pogonomys and a small bandicoot—all of which were purchased yesterday for matches— and the Cuscus gave me a busy day. While jacking tonight a Cuscus (almost positive) jumped onto the side of a hollow tree and ducked in, peered out for a second & then disappeared. They are very fast, must forage on the ground a lot, so not have the strong cuscus odor. Many "foxes" feeding in tree tops—did not see any. The A.M. was mild and sunny—perfect day for picture taking. A few of the camp, the water course vegetation against the blue sky, and some of natives from Biniguni who came visiting. One boy had his hair all redded up—probably decoration for the dance and feast they had planned to have after getting us & the government patrol out of mind. The same native who sold me the bandicoot yesterday also

[illegible]

Sunday 23 August 1953 (cont) Peria River Camp brought in a young Cassowary he had caught. When he found out that I did not want it, he sold it to the boys for a tin of tapered meat. The boys certainly had the best of that bargain! Kim cooked a piece of the liver & served it on buttered toast at tea time--absolutely delicious! Moon will be full [illegible] tomorrow . Frogs and night birds in full chorus. Monday 24 August Full moon--a soft-aired beautiful night. Isilele and I walked down trail to the next river crossing, arriving there about 5:45 P.M. We waited until 6:15 before we started home jacking along the way. Shot small bat at river but we could not find it in tall grass. Saw one of the giant frogs and heard several more-- all giving their off-key duck call. Dobsonia all thru the woods. They are well adapted to hovering in tight places. Kim & Losima were waiting (8 P.M.) with my hot dinner! 2 kinds of fish and a boiled prawn--Geoff and my boys netted them this afternoon--delicious. Soup, of course, then curry rice and chutney, sweet potatoes & taro, mixed apricots and bananas for dessert--and tea. I'm gaining weight again. Only 2 lm. Rattus in traps. Native from Awani was using "native dynamite"--a vine root--to poison the isolated pools in the river bed. He kept the larger fish & I collected the smaller ones for the Museum--one resembled a pipe fish and another small one had vertical scarlet streaks on the sides. The root is pounded between stones & thrown into the pool. 2 small boys brought me 15 of the large Hipposideros--found in hollow tree. Tuesday 25 August Only 2 Rattus in traps. However, I had 13 bats that the small boys brought in last night. I made up 8 of these. Ken arrived back in camp from his trip to the bat cave at Tapio. Brought in bats with him--2 species: small Dobsonia and the brown & white checkered bat (Rhinolophus?) that we found at Dabora. Saw no small bats. Large Dobsonia was there too. A 2 hour rugged walk from the village. Geoff's boys and mine netted fish in the running river on the Kwagira trail. Two of them were of good size & Kim cooked them for dinner. Ken also had a pigeon and scrub hen to contribute & Kim had baked an apricot pie--what a dinner! Jacking tonight for an hour. Shot a Uromys 20 yds. from camp--right in the head. David also brought in a Uromys. Ken is planning to move our gear out of camp on Sept. 7 to Baiawa. Wednesday 26 August Rain set in after breakfast & lasted until dinner. 4 Rattus from traps. Finished up specimens after lunch & then went to tent to read, nap & natter with Ken. Baited traps & shot a new bat for the camp--a Miniopterus. No jacking--woods are dripping wet. Stars are out & moon is coming up. 9 P.M. and I'm in bed again. Geoff is last man up. A welcome lazy day. Thursday 27 August Our best trap night at this camp--7 Rattus of 2 species. And this P.M. my small boys brought me 3 Petaurus from near Opaiwari. Went jacking down river in the stream bed tonight. On way home I was passing a shallow pool & I heard a splash: there was a Hydromys wading, probably looking for prawns. This is only 2nd one for trip--an adult male. Saw at least half dozen giant frogs: they sit up on branches above water--eye shine very bright. Also found a band-tailed Gecko for Geoff. A dry day in camp. Everyone out collecting. Liklik put out new trap line.

[illegible]

Thursday 27 August 1953 (cont). Peria River Camp Ken was on the go every little while shooting pigeons. We had 1 for lunch & a large one for dinner--boys also had one. Oma came down from Awani with Okari nuts. We sail for Samarai 2 weeks from today. Friday 28 August Down to 2 Rattus in traps. Len sent Niko in to camp about 10:00 asking for his shot gun and dust. He had found 3 tiny bats hanging under a fan palm leaf. Shot 1--turned out to be the sheath-tail, I shot first night here. Sun came out for a while today but it is raining again tonight. Ken and I went out jacking on a new trail that Geoff is cutting west to the Rakua River. Very closed in with wicked thickets of "Lawyer vine". Shot 1 Melomys on ground and a long-tailed Kingfisher that I thought was a bat. Also fired at a Flying Squirrel in large tree. Don't think he came down. Rain sent us home. Had lamp going all day in tent. Skins drying very well. Saturday 29 August The end of our 23rd week of field work. Specimen total 1547. And this P.M. (late) David came in with Dorcopsulus, the lowland scrub Wallaby that has eluded us for the past few weeks. A young male, blue gray pelage, long-faced, short thick tail. Only 2 young Rattus this A.M.--both caught in the same trap. However, some Biniguni boys brought in a Melomys and 4 Pogonomys. Packed a black box to go out on next Monday's carry to Kwagira. Wrapped all my wet specimens for shipment. Also wrapped 40 dry study skins. The lamp burning in the tent each day has helped the drying. Police runner in with local mail from Samarai. No particular news. Bought more vegetables using salt. Pigeon (fine flavor) and a wonderful baked Taro for dinner tonight. No jacking. Wrote Harold Rugg and "Dory". Sending 1 film out. Ken started opening 12 gauge shells up today trying to devise shot to kill pigeons in high trees. Evidently succeeded because he collected our Sunday night dinner. Geoff still cutting track to the west. Showers & sun today. Sunday 30 August Had the camp to myself this A.M. Len, Geoff & Ken went up to Opaigwari to take pictures of dancers who have been our carriers. Men from Biniguni came too. Many had Bird-of-Paradise head dresses. My boys and I stayed home and worked on specimens. Geoff & Ken back for lunch. We tied up loads for the 10 carriers who arrive tomorrow. Len away all day collecting. Ken shot 2 more pigeons & a scrub hen today. Had them for dinner. Out jacking tonight--took a 3 ft. tree snake home to Geoff. Missed a rat & a bat. David had more luck --he shot a Giant Bandicoot and a Uromys. I shot a Hipposideros before dinner. It has been very humid today with a little breeze now & again. A persistent frog chorus tonight. Bought bamboo pipe & string carrying bag for Anthropology. Monday 31 August Ken's carry down to Kwagira went off without a hitch. Left at 9:30 & back at 12:45. Camp is looking bare--our final carry next Monday will be light. Small boys brought in some lower mandibles--2 Wallabies, white cuscus & a bandicoot. 2 Rattus and 2 Melomys in traps. Lovely day with breeze. Rain late afternoon but not enough to spoil jacking. We hit the jackpot: David shot 3 Bandicoots, I shot 1, and Ken a cuscus and a Uromys. 3 of the bandicoots have pouch young! Geoff cut more trail--still hasn't reached the next river west. Ken is making plans to collect a few mammals for me after we leave Papua. He is very keen on

[illegible]

Monday 31 August 1953 (cont) Peria River Camp hunting. Pigeon stew for dinner. We are running out of tinned tobacco & Ken has already started on trade tobacco. I ran out of candy long ago! Tuesday 1 September 244 l Melomys in traps. Just as well because we had a long morning preparing bandicoots . Ken skinned the Uromys and then tried his hand at filling in the P.M. He needed a little rescue work but he did very well for a first skin. Wrapped a few more skins--will have a box for the Thurs. semi-final carry. Geoff finally reached his river--about due N. of the Gwariu River gorge on the Maneau Range. David shot a pigeon (gaura) which we had for dinner--lots of white breast meat. Bat shooting tonight but my reflexes were too slow. Heard scolding of Dactylopsila tonight but Ken and I could not locate him in tree. Bobby brought in an owl. I may work on this if I have only a few mammals. Each ♀ bandicoot had 2 pouch young. David & Tommy brought in traps today. Specimen count-- 1580. Wednesday 2 September 245 Made up the owl which Bobby brought home from jacking last night--my first owl since 1945. Went fairly well. In stomach I found the complete, undamaged head of a Matus. It cleaned up perfectly ! Kim had 3 Rattus in traps (also a large Goana) for our only mammals of the day. We cut the Dactylopsila tree & found a hole lined with fresh leaves, but no animals except 2 five inch grubs. Ken made up a couple of rats today--he is improving. Wrapped more skins today and packed a black box full; may have yet another box by next Monday. Ken leaves tomorrow for Baiawa with a few loads from here & Baiawa carriers will come up to Kwagira for loads left in rest house several days ago. Jacking tonight: Ken shot a Dobsonia; I missed a small rat (Melomys?); we are waiting for LikLik to come in--we heard him fire 2 shots. Fish & pigeon for dinner (the fish were only 3" long--1 apiece !) David and Tommy went to Baiawa today. Will await us there. Geoff is sitting here in the fly starting to read his detective stories over for the second time. He is hard up for civilization! Boys were drumming a Menapi dance tonight. Thursday 3 September 246 2:30 P.M. and for the first time in weeks I have nothing to do. A blue sky day with a cooling breeze. It is spring here in the rain forest. Many trees are leafing out; not that they were leafless--they lose a few at a time. Butterflies are everywhere. The Birds-of-Paradise are quiet for a little while. It's just like an early Sept. day on the farm. Even the crickets are calling. Ken's carriers showed up early & my specimens and last ammo box disappeared down the trail to the coast via Kwagira. Made up Dobsonia. Nothing in traps. LikLik was not successful last night. Len collected his last big batch of plants--he is having a hard time finding much that is new. We have spent too much time here but carrier transport & our load of equipment ties us down. Kim found an old carrier hallow tree with possum scratches. We cut it down & smoked it, but no cuscus. Carriers back at 4 P.M. Note from Ken saying carry went well. At noon he was at Moi Biri waiting for tide to rise so canoes with gear could get out of the river into bay. 9:30 Just brought home the most beautiful Carpet snake I have ever seen. 10' 2" long. Found no mammals. LikLik jumped a wallaby. Brought home snake, too. Friday 4 September 247 l Melomys in LikLik's line gave us our only specimen for the day. Up at 5:30 A.M. to shoot bats but they all clung too close to trees. Isilele & I went out to look for tree bats but found none. Sunny morning but overcast now. This is the end of our 3rd week in this camp. It will be good to see the coast again even

[illegible]

Friday 4 September 1953 Peria River (cont) though Ken says that Baiawa is very hot. Losima and I went jacking up the dry river bed for quite a distance. Coming back on the old Awani track we found 2 bandicoots on the trail--small Giant Bandicoots. This gives us an excellent series from this camp. Shot 1 Hipposideros before dinner. Read all of Kay's letters from #8 on. It's about time another mail arrived. Wrote to Joyce, Robert and Donald. Saturday 5 September End of our 24th week. 1592 specimens. And tonight l of the best specimens of the expedition was added to the list--the feather-tailed possum! Have been looking for this little marsupial all trip. Niko, Billy, Isilele and I went down the Kwagira track and just as I was about to head for camp Billy spotted eyes in the top of a tall slender tree (Barringtonia). What luck I am having! S.hot 1 Hipposideros and LikLik a Uromys. L.L. had a Melomys and Isilele found 2 tiny sheath-tail bats under a palm leaf. Collected them with .410. Just as we finished breakfast a police runner came in with a big mail and 5 issues of "Time". Letters from: Kay (#21) Aug. 7; 2 from Mother Aug. 3 & 16; Janet M. Aug.19; Dr. Lord, Aug. 13; A. Dickinson, July 20; & a statement from Royal Bank, Medellin dated May 2. Ken arrived here from Baiawa at 9:30 A.M.--good time. Brought me some candy from the Army ration pack. Tomorrow we pack. Sunday 6 September The morning was spent making up specimens and being needled by Ken to hurry my final packing. He calls himself a "panic merchant"--wants to get everything done a day ahead of time. The Feather-tail made up well. Dried skulls & wrapped all except 3 trays of skins which went into the collecting trunk. By mid-afternoon camp was all wrapped up for breaking camp. Biniguni carriers came in about dinner time to spend the night on the river sands. We gave them a big feed of rice, and we are distributing all of our salt to the 4 villages (B., Awani, Opaiwari, & Budumaga) that have been so helpful to us. Caught up on my world news in the 5 issues of "Time" that arrived in the mail. Finished up our kerosene soon after dinner so I went to bed and read with my flashlight for a while and then dropped off to sleep with the frog and cricket chorus in my ears for the last time. This has been a good camp. Monday 7 September Peria River to Baiawa. Up before 6; breakfast over by 6:30. The boys know just what our routine of camp breaking is by now and all went smoothly. More carriers showed up including about 8 women; some of whom carried up to 40 pounds in their head sling bags. We left at 7:55 and followed the carrier pace which is surprisingly fast. Passed thru Kwagira where we could get our first real vista of Maneau--it looked very remote in the sun haze. Arrived at the landing on Moi Biri Creek at 11 A.M. The tide was creeping slowly over the mud flats & up the mangrove roots. It was 3:00 P.M. before we could load the canoes & start poling down the narrow channel. In the meantime we had morning tea & lunch. Ken paid off the carriers & we shook hands all around, women included. It was a most friendly ending to a good show. Bought a lime gourd (eat lime when they chew betel nut) from the Opaiwari counselor--for the Museum collection. Took a few pictures of the canoes but the creek is arched over by mangrove branches & the light was not too good. As we poled across shallow Moi Biri Bay a fresh S.E. breeze was blowing but not enough to ship water. In places we were only 2 or 3 feet above the coral heads, and a shark surfaced near our canoe for the only excitement. Arrived at the Baiawa

[illegible]

Monday 7 September 1953 (cont) Peria River to Baiawa. "jetty" just before 5:00 P.M. Our swags & working gear went up to the rest house on the hill where we sit and look out over the bay to Cape Nelson & the orange sunsets & south to Maneau. Sleeping in my own cot again tonight. Len & Geoff opened their last bottle of rum and got out a few packs of Lucky Strikes they found in the Army ration kits. Ken and David are out hunting Wallaby tonight. Capt. Smith is due on the 10th. Tuesday 8 September 1 Baiawa Ken shot a Wallaby last night. Gave it to the boys to roast whole over the coals-- they put it in skin and all. Saved the skull for me. Spent most of the day going over my gear, sorting out, & re-packing. We will have to have a real shake down of our gear when we reach Samarai. Isilele and I went out hunting for wallaby tonight on the grassy hills above the rest house. We heard a number thumping their tails (?) on the ground but we saw none in the high grass. Droppings everywhere. Many acres had been burned off and a good crop of new grass was up. We then jacked in the scrub; flying foxes feeding but we could see none. Finally, came to stream from which boys were getting our water. As I stood there a bat flew into my light beam not 5 feet away. Fired my .410 from the hip & then a 12 gauge #6 which brought her down. It was my old friend Nyctimene--the first collected on the trip, and on my last collecting night! Luckilly the shot hit the rear end & the right wing. Skull perfect & skin made up well. My collecting luck has been out of this world. Ken shot another wallaby tonight. He and David had quite a chase but they finally caught her up. Village policeman brought up a few partial skulls of wallabies. Wednesday 9 September Made up bat and boys skinned out the Q wallaby. Had 2 pouch young when shot but one fell out while David was carrying her home. Picked up the sound of the "Cape Vogel" at least 1/2 hour before anyone else heard her (including Ken). Came up to anchor about 2:30 P.M. Ken had all cargo ready for loading--finished by dinner. Capt. Smith, who has a trading station "Koonwarra" on the tip of Cape Vogel, came up for dinner. Our boys put on a dance in the village. I went to sleep to the sound of drums. Policeman gave me more skulls which resulted from a village hunt today. Took pictures of hunters. Thursday 10 September Baiawa thru Collingwood Bay, past Cape Vogel into Goodenough Bay Up before dawn & off to an early start soon after daybreak. Fine weather but the S.E. hit us as we rounded the Cape. Called in at Capt. Smith's place. Good anchorage. Building a new go down (warehouse & store). Has cotton, sisal, coconuts, paw paws & rosellas. Making a very fine place. Weighed myself on copra scale--185 with all clothes. Sailed about 4:00 P.M. We will run all night across the bay. Eggs for breakfast! Fish steaks for lunch. Friday 11 September On board the "Cape Vogel" (Capt. William Smith). After a long night of cat-naps in one of our canvas chairs & a few breaks from the cabin to deck for fresh air, we were coming up on East Cape about 6:00 A.M. Trip across mouth of Milne Bay and down thru China Straits took another 5 hours. In the straits we were bucking a 4 or 5 knot tide flow (actually hits 7 knots some times). Ailsa and Russ Webster down to greet us--also the now familiar smell of dried copra. Ailsa took me up to "Dusty" Miller's house for lunch and luck ! for the duration of my stay in Samarai. Real Australian lettuce for lunch. By the

[illegible]

Friday 11 September 1953 (cont) On board the "Gape Vogel"--to Samarai the time I reached the dock at 1:30 P.M. Ken had the unloading well under way. I unpacked my latest skull specimens from Baiawa and numbered and cataloged them. 1621 specimens for the mainland phase of our expedition. Have all my gear together in the Bunting bulk shed--what a relief! Over to the Service Mens Club at 4:30 to meet some of my friends. Ken's mate, Lionel, was in from an island trip and the tales of the expedition had begun. Mail from Mother, Dorothy & Dr. Anthony (Sept 2). Dinner with Dusty and Ailsa and to bed in their lovely house with a view up China Straits at 10:00 P.M. They are building another house not far away in a still lovelier spot. A friend, Cecil Able, from Milne Bay is doing the construction. Father the founder of Kwato Mission--he is mission-trained and a Cambridge graduate. He has a native wife & a lovely home on S. side of Bay. It seems strange to be in a proper bed again. And I can have all the ginger beer I can drink. Geoff has a limp right arm today. May be serious--perhaps a result of accumulated fatigue and nervousness ? Len wants to leave for Goodenough next Tuesday if we can find a boat. Saturday 12 September Samarai Went down to shed to take care of skins & start my re-packing. Geoff and Len to hospital to see doctor. Len had X-rays taken of his strained shoulder-- nothing wrong. Dr. believes that Geoff has had a very slight stroke but has not told him of his suspicion. His arm is still partially limp. Has recommended rest, no mt. climbing and no whiskey. Spent the P.M. sorting out my clothes, letters & papers. Tonight Ailsa and Dusty invited Len and Geoff up for a duck dinner--delicious. Then they stayed and drank until 11:30. A., D., and I could hardly keep our eyes open. I never tire of the view of China Straits from Dusty's house. The S.E. blows steadily and the clouds have been threatening all P.M. Sunday 13 September Ken Wynn invited us to a party for his Samarai friends. Geoff could not go-- very depressed (do not mention to Miriam). Massaged his arm & shoulder for him. Loafed all day. The party included some dancing & clowning. The only complaint about parties here is the fact that the same people are there all the time. Home about midnight. Wrote letters. Monday 14 September Geoff no better. Came down to the warehouse this A.M. & told me that he will probably go home instead of going on to Goodenough with us. He cannot use his right arm. Ken and I packed most of the day. Ken drummed up his bulk stores. Len and Geoff gave a cocktail party for our friends. Rather stuffy. Dusty, Ailsa & I left about 8:30. Met Mr. Dudley Rutledge, the District Commissioner, who is here in Samarai while Mr. Michael Healy is on leave. Mr. R. is in charge of the D. Island sub-district; lives at Esa' Ala on Normanby Island. Met Ailsa's mother & father again today. Mr. Gribben is retiring to Goodenough Island--Mud Bay. Len is not having much luck finding information about the island. Dust's birthday--Sept. 2; Ailsa's Nov. 5. After work went home with Nick Russell to meet Mrs. Russell. They have a lovely house on the south side of the island; S.E. sweeps their open air porches. He is English; she Belgian. They entertained Ru Hoogland when he came thru S. On way down we saw native with small snake. I claimed him for the collection. Probably first snake reported from S. Tonight on the way home we found another small snake on the path. Ailsa is an understanding hostess--she even provided a jar.

[illegible]

Tuesday 15 September 1953 Samarai 229 258 Holiday--annexation of Papua by Queensland. Rain squalls beating by island all day. 10,000 ton English copra freighter docked this A.M. A tricky operation because of the coral reefs near the dock. There are a 1,000 tons of copra in the warehouse. Len, Ken, G. and I had a short conference in P.M. Geoff is leaving for home as soon as possible. Ken will take over some of his collecting. We may have a boat for Goodenough by Friday. Called at the hospital on top of the hill and had a beer with the 2 sisters and the Ericsons. They had expected Geoff to spend the night there resting but he decided to stay at the Buntins. Ken & Geoff didn't go to bed last night. They sure like their parties liquid. Ailsa and Dusty had a guest for dinner tonight and we talked until 11:00 P.M. Saw an Osprey carrying a fish to the island today. Wednesday 16 September 230 259 Worked on specimens most of day. The pages (colored) of the Sat Eve Post are affected by the fumes of the paradichlor +/or naphth. The colors had run together in the paper which I had used to wrap skin specimens. Only a few skins had color spots on the underparts--one had a pink nose! Re-wrapped all Post specimens. Mail came in on the morning flying boat. Letter from Mother and one from Miriam. Conn. Plane goes on to Rabaul and returns to Samarai 2 days later. Hard rain squalls tonight. Dusty in bed early. Ailsa and I talked late. A long letter to Dusty from Dr. Bill Symthe who last his sloop on Barrier Reef and lived on the wrecked Liberty ship there for 13 days. Details made a fascinating story. He made the bad mistake of taking 2 greenhorns with him on blue water. Thursday 17 September 231 260 Geoff looks much better. Has a booking on the S.S.Malaita (3000 tons) sailing next Monday for Sydney. Will sail for London early in October. This will be the best medicine of all for Geoff. Gave his arm a massage before dinner. Finished re-wrapping my skins today. Poisoned all 4 knockdown boxes which Ken opened for me. Bought a small collection of stone axes & war clubs & carved wooden objects for our Anthropology Dept. £ 45 for the lot. Bought from Mr. Thomas Craig. Gave me some "Cat's eyes"--half round operculum plates from certain kind of sea snails (?). Could be made into lovely necklace. A windy day with heavy rain at intervals. Went home to lunch in my bare feet. S.S. Ernebank still loading copra. Still no word from our charter boat "Jessie". Dirty weather has her holed up somewhere on coast. Don't know when we will get away now. Tonight as usual Ailsa, Dusty and I are spending a quiet evening talking & reading with our feet on the coffee table. Friday 18 September 232 261 Today saw a continuation of last night's relaxation. Dusty stayed home again to rest his rash. We both burrowed into our books and stayed there with time out only for meals. I was reading a book about a remarkable escape from the German camp for British aviators Stalag III. Dusty was a bomber pilot shot down early in the war; he spent 2½ years in this camp and helped in the organizing that led to the escape. Book: "The Wooden Horse". It has been another dirty day with rain squalls blowing down on the island every hour or so. Saturday 19 September 233 262 Word has finally reached us that the "Jessie" will arrive this week-end. This means we will be able to leave either Mon. Or Tues. for Goodenough. Everything is ready

[illegible]

Saturday 19 September 1953 Samarai (cont) to go on board at a moment's notice. I saw Mr. Wilson in Bunting's office this A.M. to make reservations south for the middle of December; both plane & ship-- the latter takes only 4 days to Brisbane & may be better than waiting for the weekly plane. However, I have not yet heard from Mr. Williams in Brisbane concerning sailings to London in December. Spent the P.M. reading. Ailsa invited Geoff and Len for dinner. Geoff is looking better but is still not himself and his arm is still half limp. Dusty showed a few of Len's Menapi Kodachromes--none of them very good. He also showed us his own pictures of local mainland & island spots. The small islands with their reefs & beaches are lovely. They have a boat, the "Wari"--motor & sail. The rain has stopped us from going out to the islands for a swim. Sunday 20 September This looks like our last day here. The weather is breaking & the sea is calmer. Wrote Mother & Kay--sending my diary to date. Read & relaxed. "Jessie" may be ready for our charter trip to Goodenough Island tomorrow. Monday 21 September Sailed at 2:30 P.M. for Goodenough via Normanby & Fergusson Islands. Very heavy rain all A.M. Most of our cargo loaded between squalls. Sun out in P.M. Tide against us in China Strait. Almost full moon tonight. Calm sea. Tuesday 22 September Arrived Normanby Island about 4:00 A.M. Docked at Esa-Ala Government station. This is Administrative headquarters for islands of the D'Entre Casteaux Group. Patrol Officer Robert Greeney is going + with us to Goodenough Island for a few days. Ken spoke to office interpreter who knows something of inland trails. Norm Evennett's boat tied up at wharf too. Had breakfast at D. O.'s home & sailed at 9:30. We are now bound for Fergusson Island to drop Billy & Sigimutu off at their villages on south coast (these are Geoff's boys). Mainland N. G. barely visible to south. Clouds hanging at about 1000 ft. on Fergusson. Entered large bay at west end of Fergusson & docked 2:30 at Mapamoia, site of a Government medical station. Charles Corbett invited us for lunch but we could not stay. Sailed thru passage (Moresby Strait) between Fergusson & Goodenough N. past Mud Bay (volcanic fumeroles on S. side). Docked at Bolu Bolu about 6:00 P.M. We are staying in a tin-roofed office shed put up by American forces during war. Concrete floor. Enough room for all our gear, good work space. We are on a coastal strip backed by ridges to the west running up to 3-4000 ft. To the north the sharp peaks of the island are visible. They jut up 7-8000 ft. Ken will search for a good mt. Camp at about 6000 Ft. We are in grass country with a few patches of scrub in some of the hill gullies. Brought essential gear up & turned in early. A beautiful moon rose early over Fergusson Island. No trapping or jacking tonight. Wednesday 23 September Goodenough Island Bolu Bolu. Village counselors & policemen had received word of arrival of "the Government" (Mr. Greenley) & of the Americans--magic word here! Carriers arrived & our supplies started coming up from the "Jessie." Sorting & storing took most of morning. Cut a track in nearest scrub & put down my first trap line. Very dry, doesn't look too promising. Isilele sick, as are most of the boys, with severe colds caught in Samarai. LikLik put out trap line in grass. Al Ramsden, an old island trader, arrived in his boat & came up for dinner.

[illegible]

Wednesday 23 September 1953 (cont) Goodenough Island--Bolu Bolu LikLik and I, Ken & Niko went jacking. I shot a Cuscus in scrub on hillside; dorsal stripe, light whitish brown. Ken brought in 2 Flying Squirrels & our first big Nyctimene ! (hanging in tree). These came from big 2° scrub & gardens along coast road to north. The rum started flowing freely, Ken & I went to bed early, Ramsden passed out in his chair during the night, but Len & Mr. Grealley were still talking at dawn ! Thursday 24 September Bolu Bolu Traps gave 3 Rattus (2 species)--all in grass. I had none in my rain forest line. My boys and I are back in our usual routine. We will miss David's hunting, however. Ken was offered a lift up the coast in Ramsden's boat. He, Bob Grealley & Ramsden left soon after lunch. Bob is going on patrol around the north end of island & will then return from W. to E. by climbing over the middle of the island ridges. Ken is going up from east side. They may meet & do a little exploring together. Niko is with Ken. Have seen very few small birds. Many black and white Torres Straits pigeons. LikLik and I jacked the scrub on N. track. Saw nothing except Flying Foxes--shot one with yellow nape & whitish "spectacles". Heard Nyctimene twice. Moon bright. Friday 25 September Bolu Bolu 6 small grass Rattus in traps. Sharp shower at 6:00 A.M. We see rain clouds in mountains very frequently but we seldom have rain here. Wind is never steady but comes in sharp gusts. Al Ramsden arrived back about tea time. Sent up a King fish for dinner. We invited him in to help eat his fish & we spent a pleasant evening discussing the personalities & problems of the territory. He was full of information about war time activities in the islands. A quiet day until the grass cutting crew from Beli Beli showed up to cut down the rampant kangaroo grass. They swarmed over the place like locusts & soon discovered us at work. We moved inside but we then had a window audience for the rest of the day. To bed early. Saturday 26 September Bolu Bolu 3 Rattus (2 species) & 2 Mus. in grass traps. Made up by lunch time. Kim, Lik Lik, and I set out for some caves south along the coast near Kim's village. Left here at 12:40 P.M. & arrived at caves at 2:30--a long hot walk. Trail followed shore in places, passed thru a large coconut plantation on the next point south of us. Small patches of scrub near shore but most of country is in grass. No running creeks. We reached a broad shoulder of land just north of Mud Bay & just this side of Kim's village. Kim cut down an old creek bed & then wandered out into the grass--5' - 6' high & covering old rough limestone boulders. He had not visited the caves since boyhood but he had no trouble finding them. A few trees growing out of a sink hole in a sea of grass marked the entrance to 3 small caves which looked like old wave-washed holes. Elevation now about 75' & 3/8 mile from coast. About a dozen bats--all of 1 species, Hipposideros--and we did well to collect 5 of them. Very nervous--caught 1 by hand but others shot with dust. No sign of Dobsonia but we saw evidence of native visits & they would only come for large bats. Started home at 4:00--arrived 6:00 P.M. Kim opened green coconuts--milk very good. Also stopped at plantation & ate oranges which were given to us by Kim's mother & father-in-law. Kim also met his father on the track. He and other men just returning from fishing party. Cool walking. The northern peaks clear. To bed early. Kim's village: Amanawayá; Name of caves: Sevaugádi.

[illegible]

Sunday 27 September 1953 Bolu Bolu (241) Made up 4 bats--2 with embryos. No trap catch. A dull, rather blustery day with a few spits of rain blowing into our windowless "ranch house". We have new trap lines out tonight. Boys have lines along first stream to north. Len had a good day--found 1 tree he can not identify to family. Kim is off visiting his village. Losima's brothers are visiting here in camp. The families of Bobby & Tommy canoe over from Fergusson Island to visit. This is yam planting time; this and bananas most important island crops. Lik Lik out jacking on his own tonight. Shot a c cuscus with 2 pouch young; also a Nyctimene. Isilele & I were out together; shot flying squirrel but we lost it in tall grass--squirrel in tree about 50 yds. from scrub. Found a Nyctimene hanging in small tree; only 1 eye showing--pale yellowish-white--resembled spider eye but not as bright. Wind blowing hard. Monday 28 September (242) My traps had nothing but crabs in them. Only 1 Rattus in other lines. Blue sky patches; wind gusty & strong. Len is plant hunting in big scrub to N.W. of us in the foot hills. Peaks clear early but hidden in cumulus now (11 A.M.) Now that Geoff has left it is my job to issue boys' Kai. Daily: 1 lb. rice; ½ lb. dried peas or wheat meal flour; 1/3 can corned beef; vegetables when we can buy them. Weekly: 3 sticks tobacco; paper; matches; 4 oz. salt; 1 oz.tea; ½ lb. sugar; 1 lb. beef dripping; 2 oz. soap. Jacking was particularly frustrating tonight. I saw 2 Petaurus, a flying fox & a Nyctimene but did not get a shot. Liklik shot twice at a cuscus & once at a bat but missed. Very high wind coming in gusts made hunting difficult. Still hunting out of question. Small bat flew over shed at bath time; had disappeared by time I picked up my gun. This is first small bat I have seen at dusk. Tuesday 29 September (243) Blank for all trap lines. Beautiful day. Took several pictures of the peaks at 6:30 A.M. 1/25 at 6.3 ! Mountain heights are deceptive here; certainly do not look 7 - 8000 feet. White caps on sea. Ken Wynn & Bob Greenley arrived back in camp about 9:30 A.M. Ken brought back a small Wallaby--black with white hair bases; short tail. Caught by dogs. Skin & skull in good condition. Looks like an exciting addition to island's Fauna. Ken had a rough trip--rain, wind & thick scrub above 5000 ft. Did not attempt to climb any of the peaks. Bob had a long scramble from west side of island over the central ridges to join Ken's track down to east coast. Both footsore & glad to be back at base camp. Caretaker's wife brought in small rat caught in her house. More traps out today--now about 100 rat traps out & a few Museum specials--practically all in scrub. 3 parties out jacking: Ken & Tommy, 1 Dobsonia, 1 Nyctimene; LikLik & Bobby, 1 Nyctimene; Isilele & I, 1 Dobsonia. I missed a Nyctimene in flight. We now have 11 species for the island. No sign of Hydromys, Uromys or Bandicoot. Wednesday 30 September (244) Another blank trap night. The 2 Dobsonia & 2 Nyctimenes made up our day's catch. We all sat down in the A.M. & worked out our requirements for our mountain trip. Ken believes we will have no trouble with carriers. All very friendly. Bob Greenley staying here today hoping that a mission boat will show up to return him to Esa-Ala. Went jacking down to coconut plantation ; saw 2 Nyctimenes, shot one. Saw a number of small bats along trail. Should be good shooting at dusk. Ken brought in a young c Cuscus. Fruit & vegetables are coming in now. Very good limes. Gave Bob an Army ration dinner for a send-off.

[illegible]

Thursday 1 October 1955 Bolu Bolu 245 91 274 1 Rattus in traps. A lazy day until Ken & I went down to the coconut plantation. We saw quite a few, but all of our blazing away yielded only 1 bat. However, this is new for the island--a simple-nosed bat such as we found in the coconuts at Menapi. Now have 12 species. Saw another larger bat. Bob got off early this A.M. by boat. Took a letter for Kay with him--next plane on the 13th. Peaks clear. Back for dinner about 7:30. Len waited for us--we had a real chicken dinner: onions; sweet potatoes; English potatoes; Chinese long beans; cooked watercress; & oranges cut up in canned apple sauce. Friday 2 October 246 90 275 Nothing in traps. Made up the bat. The ants found him in my collecting box last night & chewed off an ear & part of his wing membranes, but it measured & made up all right. Sent the boys down to the coconut plantation to look for bat roosting holes in trees. Found none. Wrapped study skins & wet specimens. Ken and I went bat shooting in the plantation again, but there was a poor flight. The sand flies attacked Ken & he couldn't concentrate. I collected one flying squirrel on the way home. We heard another squirrel outside our "donga"--also collected. LikLik brought his traps in today. 1 day-caught Rattus r. Late in afternoon I collected a small grass finch--one which Dr. Mayr wrote was represented by only 1 specimen in the A.M.N.H. Collection. Made it up--not too well. Saturday 3 October 247 89 276 Losima had 1 Mus. in his grass traps. Niko & LikLik went off for our mountain camp today with a couple of carriers. They are going to ready camp for our arrival next Wed. Made up specimens and sorted out equipment for our mountain trip. Quiet day. Sunday 4 October 248 88 277 Isilele brought in traps & another new species for the island--a large Rattus with a tail not unlike our previously caught medium grass rats. This is 13 species to date. A native also brought in 11 lower mandibles of the grassland Wallaby-- all sizes--a good series. Have now found out why they never have complete skulls; they break open the cranium and eat the brain. Al Ramsden showed up in his boat early in A.M. Brought no mail, but he did leave us 4 dozen fairly fresh eggs in exchange for a bottle of rum. Left about noon. Finished packing carrier loads. To bed early. Monday 5 October Bolu Bolu to Wakanai (about 500 ft.) 249 278 Up at 5:30, carriers came at 6 and we were on the trail at 6:30 A.M. heading north along the coast--somewhat inland. We crossed a number of good-flowing mountain streams with sweet-tasting water. Arrived at Wakanai, a pleasantly located foot- hill village, about 9:30 A.M. Sun very hot during last hour. We overlook airstrip which was used during war. Rushing stream just a few feet below the rest house. Spent day loafing & paddling in brook. Tomorrow we start up mountain. We are just under the eastern most of the peaks; this shoots up to 7000 feet. Tuesday 6 October Wakanai to Garuwata #2 village to waterfall camp (840 M.) 250 86 279 Left Wakanai at 6:15 A.M. Started climbing spurs from central mass. We are south of the Garuwata River--peaks lie north. Passed thru one tiny shanty town perched on the knife-edge track. Houses no bigger than our tent & made from corrugated iron that the people have salvaged from war surplus. Views opened up quickly: Vivigani air strip, Amulet Islands to N.E. of Ferguson Is., Seymour Bay. Garden patches cleared on all but the very steepest of slopes. Taro, yams & manioc.

[illegible]

Tuesday 6 October 1953 (cont). Wakonai to Garuwata The first spur was the worst. Then we started side hill traveling along narrow trails in grass & stones. My cord-soled boots were perfect for the dry track. Crossed 2 small streams which were life-savers. Sun hot even at 8 A.M. against side hills (rises 5:30 now). Garuwata River has a beautiful split waterfall-- we were high above it. Other smaller falls on peak slopes. Arrived Garuwata 9:45. Spelled for an hour while carriers cooked rice & we rested. During morning we passed several low stone platforms whith elongated stones erected around perimeter (few left upright). Houses on stilts--have notched poles to climb to door. Several women carried for us--all head carry. Left village at 11 A.M. Arrived camp 11:35. Just above rushing brook--very little level ground. Have rigged 2 flys for carriers and 1 tent for the 3 of us. We get our tea on schedule! Clouds low above us but no sign of rain. Took some pictures from camp. We are in tree fern land again. Also umbrella trees with long stems of red flowers--saw them before on Cape York. Now 4:00 P.M. & we are resting & reading. Have comfortable sling bed a la Maneau. Wednesday 7 October Waterfall camp to Top Camp (1580 M.) Left 6:30 A.M. --arrived 9:30 A.M. Had a good sleep. Broke camp & started up a real "goat trail" heading straight up to the top of high spur overlooking the Garuwata River gorge and across to the peaks. I was climbing with my hands as well as my toes part of the time--thru forest all the way to top of spur. Took pictures from several look out points. Clouds below most of time. Covered up beautiful views to east and south. Carriers had hard time for part of climb. Women still with us. Followed knife-edge grass spur to edge of oak & bamboo scrub. Ken had cut trail into forest for about 1/2 mile. Niko & Liklik had 2 flys and 2 tents pitched--good camp with small running stream a few yards away. Hard rain in P.M. Put out 20 M.S. traps close by camp. Ken out jacking for short time--nothing. Garawata policeman and his dog are in camp & will hunt for me for a couple of days. Does not know Dactylopsila from this island. Says there is a small dark Cuscus up here. Bought some lower mandibles from some of carriers--included 1 Bandicoot--makes 14 species for island. Temperature 65° tonight. Thursday 8 October Top Camp No rats. Made up the young Cuscus. Ken and my boys were cutting track & doing camp chores most of day. Boys chopped down tree with hole; however, tree hung up & we never could find out if any Pogonomyes were in residence. Len has a rich collecting ground. The old policeman & his dog were out most of the day. Brought back 2 Dobsonia which he found in holes in rock--not caves according to his story. Ken & I jacked different trails tonight. Both of us saw Nyctimene & heard flying fox, but not a trace of cuscus or ground mammals. Kim baked a fine apricot pie tonight. 75 M.S. traps out tonight. Caught a long-legged tree frog & Niko & Losima 3 tiny frogs near water. Walked back to grass spur in P.M. Beautiful view of sea. Friday 9 October Top Camp First mammal on the mountain was a small Rattus. M.F. 2-2-8, long, fairly soft pelage. Collected ticks on ears. Rained hard for 1/2 the night. In clouds in A.M. Cleared in P.M.; stars out & some wind tonight. Ken & I walked back to grass spur at 5 P.M., watched sun set & jacked back to camp. Saw nothing but Nyctimene. Peaks stark against the sky, sea covered with haze, cumulus heads white & solid. S.W. wind whipped cloud wisps down over our ridge. Looked for birds in undergrowth today but found none. Even birds in tree tops scarce. Many larger birds fly over (pigeons& parrots). Made up 2 Dobsonia--each had 1 embryo. This is certainly a different D.

[illegible]

Friday 9 October 1953 (cont) Top Camp than I found on mainland. Len had his boys collect a shrub today with bunches of beautiful rose, tubular flowers. To bed early ( 9:00 P.M.) Saturday 10 October Nothing in traps. Collected 3 specimens of birds, 3 species--all Q s. Black Flycatcher, Rufous-capped Flycatcher, and a thrush-like bird. Sexing easy when fresh. 2 were well shot. But one hit at close-range--difficult to make up. Sun out strong in A.M.--in and out this P.M. Ken and Len walked up to the ridge south of camp--about 100 M. higher. Len found a species of Beech tree--not known for the island. Took sights on island peaks so that we will know approximately where we are on the map. Isilele & I went jacking for an hour over a new bush tack they cut in A.M. Perfect night--no wind, no rain drip, but also a perfect blank as far as mammals were concerned. Not a rustle on the ground or a movement in the trees. Ken had the same experience. Went down in the 50 s tonight for the first time. Slept warm in my bag & winter pajamas. Sunday 11 October Blank in trap lines. However, this was an exciting day! This morning I collected a σ Pachycephala soror--2nd sknown specimen from the island. This may permit des- crition as a new sub-species, according to Dr. Mayr. Have color sketch: black head, white throat, yellow belly, black breast band. Stomach filled with small black beetles. The next specimen was a brown Pigeon. Finally, I collected a beautiful σ red and black Honey eater (long curved bill) Myzomela rosenbergi longirostris--known only from a single specimen discovered on one of the Whitney South Sea Expeditions. So far this gives me 3 of the 9 species that Dr. Mayr was anxious to have collected. A fitting wasy to celebrate my 8th anniversaary with the Museum. Several natives made the climb to camp today from Garawata with fresh vegetables. One boy had skull of Wallaby and several lower mandibles which I was glad to buy with trade tobacco; they came from slppes of one of the peaks to north of us. One man has brought his dog & plans to hunt for us for several days. I may get a few mammals from this camp yet! A dog is our best bet. Raining (3:00 P.M.) Out jacking with LikLik for an hour. We heard a cuscus but could not locate it. Shot a tree frog. Woods very wet. Monday 12 October Ken, Kim & LikLik went down to the hung up tree with small hole & fished out 6 Pogonomys. Long fur & long tails, gray--some with white underparts. A good find-- species # 16 for the Island. At noon our hunter came home with a new Cuscus (dark with dorsal stripe) & 2 of the black Wallabies! We are paying 1 ½ A for each Wallaby & a package of 12 razor blades paid for the Cuscus. The hunter & his dog are staying for a few days! More village people arrived today with vegetables for which they wanted salt, paper, tobacco and old flashlight batteries. Several had lower mandibles of wallabies,cuscus, and bandicoots. Bought them for a few sticks of tobacco. Clear & cold with new moon tonight. No jacking. Made up 1 Rufous-capped Flycatcher in A.M. Collecting continues good for Len. Tuesday 13 October No trap catch as usual, but our hunter came thru with another Wallaby and our first Bandicoot. Wallaby was an old male going grizzled but still with good black body. Bandicoot (Echimipera) small, spiny. Somewhat damaged but skull perfect. We now have skins for all species except lowland Wallaby. Spent A.M. making up Pogonomys

[illegible]

Tuesday 13 October 1953 (cont) Top Camp and going over flat skins. Ken left early this A.M. to pick out our next and last campsite on the Island. Went one at an elevation of about 2500 ft. Will return Thursday. No time to collect birds today. Took 2 shots at small bat at dusk but not luck. Found out that there is small bat cave at waterfall where we camped on way up. The counselor is to bring a few up next week-end. Lovely night. Going jacking. Heard bi-weekly plane which puts down at Esa-Ala. It may have carried a visitor for our camp--a forest service friend of Len's. Quiet as a church out jacking--not a trace of a mammal--only frogs. We walked up trail heading towards ridge above camp. In open trail passes over 2 - 3 foot matting of ferns. The tall graceful tree ferns and the arching bamboo canes against the night sky with a crescent moon were very lovely. Wednesday 14 October Another Rattus in traps! Shot a tiny warbler--like bird which turned out to be another of the wanted species. Made up the Bandicoot--took a lot of sewing. This P.M. I made up my first parrot. Collected him last Monday and injected. Still fresh. Cannot pull neck over skull--nape has to be split. He came out very well. All the colors of the rainbow but much more vivid. A bird of the sunny tree tops. Our hunter was in late today, but he brought a fine o Bandicoot. Blackish head, whitish, hairless tip to snout, and a slightly grizzled patch over each eye. Had boys open up our bat shooting area. This paid off at dusk when I collected 2 small Miniopeterus, similar to those at the Maneau camp but blackish. 18 species for Island; 7 for Top Camp. LikLik and I jacked down the river trail thru Ken's first mountain camp. No mammals. To bed at 9:00. Thursday 15 October Kim had our first o Rattus. Made up skins in A.M. Ken arrived in camp at 9:15 A.M. He has picked a 2nd camp for us at an elevation of about 2000 ft. in open rain forest. Ken just beat the rain into camp. Our hunter was out today but the rain brought him and his dog back early--first time without results. Ken has decided to leave tomorrow so we took stock of food and made up list of supplies to come from Bolu Bolu to 2nd camp. Len and I have decided to cut this camp a few days short. Carriers will move us down the mountain on the 24th. Leave 2nd camp on Nov. 9th for 2 or 3 days at Wakonai at foot of mountains, and then return to Bolu Bolu to pack. We hope a charter boat will pick us up on Nov. 14 or 15 to take us to Normanby Island for our last month of collecting. Raining, so Ken & I turned in early and talked. No jacking. Friday 16 October Caught my first mammal--a Rattus (o), our 4th for the camp. Also added a "thrush" and honey eater to the collection. Ken was off early. He is going to Wakonai by way of Garuwata. Put out a new trap line. Raining again. Wrote K. & Dr. Anthony. We have had no mail since leaving Samarai almost a month ago. Hunter and dog spelled today; hopes to have a fresh dog brought up to camp. Out for a short walk after dinner. Nothing stirring. To bed early & read late (10:00 P.M.)! Saturday 17 October A quiet A.M. No mammals. Took the boys out hunting birds but no luck. Saw a number but I am being selective in my collecting. Some Garuwata boys arrived about noon. They had a young mountain cuscus and a Pogonomy. Also a collection of skulls & lower mandibles--all mountain material. Bought them for salt, tobacco

[illegible]

Saturday 17 October, 1953 (cont) Top Camp -- Goodenough Island and newspaper. First evidence of Uromys on the island--a lower jaw. Have not had time to sort them out. All of these boys have green sticks thru the septum of the nose. They are a friendly and respectful people. Hunting is a very necessary part of their lives. Kim was out hunting for tree holes this P.M.; has one located which may produce mammals. A good jacking night. Shot my first cuscus and also had shots at what I believe to be Nyctemene and Macroglossus. Also collected a few frogs--2 of these were sitting in the water in the cut stems of bamboo. It took us a while to locate them. Dinner: tomato soup, fish rissoles, pumpkin, yam, stewed apricots. Rain has brought out 2 ft. earthworms. Our hunter brought in another o7cuscus--darker than first. Sunday 18 October Runner arrived with our first island mail. Card from Rus Peterson ( N.H. Sept 14); Mother (Sept 10). Also a note from "Dusty" Miller in Samarai (Sept 26) saying that Geoff had suffered a second stroke soon after we left. Improving as of date; may fly him home. Will have good care in hospital for several weeks. Am sending letters off tomorrow by runner to coast (Kay, Mother, Miriam Conn., Uncle Will & Dr. Anthony). Made up our skins & put skull labels on all of the skulls & mandibles that the natives traded to me. Nothing new besides the rodent turned up. Small boy brought us a wallaby and a cuscus skull this A.M. They know I want complete skulls now. Each one is worth a double sheet of newspaper! Also bought a few sweet potatoes & coconuts. Hunter stayed home for a spell today. Nothing in traps. Boys cutting more track for jacking. No bats at dusk tonight. Kim made delicious dumplings & banana fritters for dinner. Sunny most of day-- feW showers tonight. Note from Ken; reached Bolu Bolu yesterday & will wait for our return runner before leaving for Wakonai to send up carriers. Monday 19 October Kim produced our 5th Rattus. Lik & Isilele brought in traps & we all slid down a mossy rock-strewn gully to stream below our camp. They put out 2 new trap lines (50) in hope of picking up Hydromys--or anything. Collected another of the warbler-like birds on the wanted list. Found an overhang of earth and rocks & roots which swallows are using as a building site. 2 eggs in one nest. Begonias rampant along stream banks. Lush vegetation. Our hunter with aid of another boy & dog brought in 2 wallaby, 2 Dobsonia, 2 bandicoot (1 with 2 tiny pouch young) & 1 cuscus--at 3 P.M. I measured the marsupials & my boys skinned out the wallabies before the early dark (raining again) closed down. Dog ripped a front leg off one wallaby & chewed up the o bandicoot a bit. However, all skulls except one are intact. We will have a busy morning for a change. The flying foxes came from a hole in a tree. Runner off early with mail. Len is drying a few begonias for me; I plan to send the pressed flowers to Harold Rugg & Dr. Lord. Len collected first lizard for this camp-- In tree that boys felled. Tuesday 20 October The moon is almost full tonight & Losima & I had a pleasant walk along the east trail. Owls & night. ars. & all manner of frogs were calling. At one point on the track we heard fruit fall; L. scurried into the bush & located a o cuscus which I collected. Our hunter had a slow day, finding only 1 cuscus and 2 Dobsonia. The day's preparation work was very tedious; one of the bandicoots was so badly torn by the dog that it required over an hour of sewing. The o bandicoot and Dobsonia made up without trouble but I had to check over both wallaby skins again. Ken

[illegible]

Tuesday 20 October 1953 (cont) Top Camp Len had a long morning; collected what he believes to be a new genus of palm. No luck at bat shooting tonight. Kim brought in a most beautiful green spotted tree frog. I am recording and collecting "Herps" now that Geoff has left. Len is doing a few "Micros". Delicious dumplings & pineapple fritters tonight. Nothing in our new trap lines in the valley stream. Wednesday 21 October Our hunter turned up with another cuscus & a ♀ Dobsonia with a young one still attached by the umbilical cord. Another immature ♂ captured in same tree. Nothing in traps. Found a Vaccinium--lovely pink bell flowers--to which many birds were attracted (even a parrot was feeding there). Most of the day was spent skimming & preparing material & trying to dry out large skins. The sun was out most of the time. Clouds & a shower of rain came over at dinner time--just evenough to spoil the jacking. Losima & I caught a few frogs including the one that makes the shrill piping--very small. And so to bed with an old N. Y. H. Trib. Book Review section to read. Thursday 22 October Losima had his turn at catching a Rattus. Hunter was in early--this time with his 6th wallaby. He gets cash for the first 2 and a drum of salt for the other 4. The dogs started this wallaby near the stream below us. Shot another scarlet and black honey eater--this time I made a good skin. Started my packing for our Saturday move. Skins not dry: hope we have plenty of sun at next camp. Full moon tonight, but a warm cotton mist was swirling in the trees spoiling our jacking. So we collected frogs again. The Honey eater was on the Vaccinium. First Horn bill flew over camp today. Now 7 months in field. Friday 23 October Our last day at this camp. And as always happens on this trip one of our best specimens came in at the last moment. Our river trapping paid off with a Hydromys in Isilele's line. A young ♀ ; our first for the island. This is one of the 6 species recorded by Beck. Brings our species total to 20. Ken sent a note up with the carriers that he has shot a "Vagita" or lowland wallaby--our first with the exception of lower mandibles. Finished our packing & the boys have bound the poles on for carriers. 42 men & women showed up early this P.M. & are now camping under our 3 flys--quite a full camp. We have issued them with a feed of rice & meat and they seem quite happy; also a few sticks of trade tobacco as a present. We are clouded in now( 4:30 P.M.); just as long as we have no rain tomorrow ! Ken also sent contents of radiogram from Buntings--they will send boat to pick us up at Bolu Bolu on Nov. 14. All the people are now hunkered down around their smokey fires. Saturday 24 October Top Camp to #2 Camp (c. 900 M--may be lower). Up at 5:00 A.M. to break camp & get our carrier loads organized. Sun came up & our usual good luck with weather prevailed once again. We left at 7 A.M. & arrived in camp a little before 10 A.M. We came along the long grass ridge and had beautiful views of the triple peaks. Took pictures of the carrier line. Ferguson mts. covered with thick cumulus. Leaving the spur we goat-tracked down a new cut trail thru thick forest. Our camp seems to be in a transition zone between oak and rain forest. It is in a small cove with a little flat ground for our flys

[illegible]

Saturday 24 October 1953 (cont) Top Camp to #2 Camp and tents. A good spring wells out of camp hillside. Ken had most of camp rigged includingout tent so we moved right in. We bought a stone axe from one of the natives. Ken tells me they are supposed to be made on Cape Vogel. Ken also bought a young sugar glider (Petaurus); it is very tame and feeds well on milk with sugar added. He won't let me have it for a specimen! While we were at Top Camp Ken had the good luck to find and buy 2 of the old stone slings-- the making is a lost art now. This is the only place in Papua that they were known to have been used. We paid our hunter off: 1 drum salt, 4 one [illegible] notes, 7 sticks of tobacco and 3 used batteries. He was rich! But he will share it all with his Garuwata villagers. No poor men here in Papua. Ken had a Pogonomys waiting for me. Same type as Top Camp but larger and darker brown. Bats over clearing at dusk. 30 traps out. Sunday 25 October #2 Camp (269) 67 9:00 P.M. Nothing in traps but Niko jacked a new species of Pogonomys ( small, scaled tail, white tail tip, heavy incisors, short hind foot & short ears). Wakonai counselor tells me it lives in holes in ground. Kim was out setting traps this P.M. and found & chopped down another Pogonomys tree--5 in family this time. Counselor hunted this A.M. & brought in a cuscus & 1 Dobsonia which he found in a rock crevice. My boys felled more trees in the clearing to open it up for bat shooting. No luck, however, tonight. Jacking for an hour but no sign of life except Nyctimene. Good view of coast just a few minutes out of camp. Niko brought in a red-bellied snake. Hunter brought in a 4½ ft snake yesterday. Washed the salt off Ken's lowland wallaby & alum & arsenic treated it--in good shape. Skins are all drying well here. Nights are dry & just cool enough for comfort. Took in another notch in my belt today! Monday 26 October #2 Camp (270) 66 105 traps--not a nibble. Made up my 5 Pogonomys, 1 Dobsonia, & 1 Phalanger. Getting short of trays. Sunny morning but high clouds most of P.M. Walked down trail & came out on grass spur. Lovely view of coast. Saw boat going South along coast. Spur is a small one paralleling the 2 main ridges that form our precipitous gorge. Virgin forest except at east or lower ends of ridges where villagers have burned & felled for gardens. Parrots & cockatoos flying & swooping in the gorge. Ken had good collecting today--insects. Almost bat shooting time--5:45. Again, a few shots but none down. A bat that looks like the little sheath-tail at the Peria is the earliest flyer. Jacking along the ridge trail east & back along our spring-fed stream--nothing. To bed at 9 P.M. Tuesday 27 October #2 Camp (271) 65 Up at 4:15 A.M. Used jack light for short time. Saw bat which I believe is Macroglossus. Fine bird chorus in valley. Back to bed at 5:00. Nothing in traps so my boys & I cut track down into the stream gorge. Steep but no obstacles. We came out at a lovely big swimming hole overhung with an orange sprayed Dendrobium. We spent a sunny hour or so scrambling around stream bed. Collected a few plants for Len. With track open we were back in camp in 10 minutes. Collected 2 Honey-eaters in tall flowering tree. Pickled one of them & I was just in the middle of making a skin of the other when the Wakonni counselor, Jack, arrived with 3 batches of mail! 5 letters from Kay (23-27), Dorothy #3, Garry Harned, Rus Peterson, 3 from Mother. All well at home. Letter from Ailsa dated Oct. 14 giving all news about Geoff. He is still in serious condition-- has not left Samarai & will not be able to do so without a companion.

[illegible]

Tuesday 27 October 1953 (cont) #2 Camp Showing slight improvement. Len has decided to terminate expedition. Ken will leave for Mapamoiva tomorrow with intention of talking to Samarai by radio & will send off cables to home. Will ask Buntins to send boat to pick us up at Bolu Bolu on Nov. 3. 2 carries: 1 tomorrow and 2nd Saturday to Wakonai rest house. To Bolu Bolu on Monday. If Geoff has died or if the opinion is that he cannot travel in the near future, Len & I will sail for Normanby to collect there for a few weeks. We hope that Geoff can be flown home as a stretcher case. In that event I will accompany him. No plans can be made until we get latest news from Samarai. Much confusion at home--Geoff's condition & our whereabouts. Ken gave me his 2 Goodenough slings & collection of stone implements. These will be presented to the Museum. Wrote note to Kay & caught up on latest news in Time & Kay's clippings. Ken had word that his father had died in Wales. Gave him my watch. Wednesday 28 October #2 Camp Ken left early this A.M. with Niko. My boys found 2 batches of Pogonoms yesterday P.M. -- holes in trees. Also shot a Rhinolophus in clearing last night. Isilele brought in the real prize, our first Melomys for Goodenough. Dark mole- like fur. This makes 22 species for the island. Reorganized food supplies & put out excess for first carry tomorrow. Spent day making up skins. Spent short time out jacking. To bed with Time. Thursday 29 October #2 Camp Sailed from N.Y.C. 9 months ago today. The 2 young boys I had asked to look in the small caves above Garuwata showed up today with 3 Hipposideros--new for the island. Now 23 species. I was so pleased with their work that I gave them 3 sticks of tobacco and 6 boxes of matches & 3 sheets of newspaper. I had been after this bat for weeks. Up before daylight today: saw the little sheath-tail but did not get it. Found a low bat flyway behind cook fly. Act like Hipposideros-- fast flyers. Also saw Dobsonia and heard Nyctimeme. Fixed up 16 carrier loads for Wakonai. Carriers arrived about middle of A.M. & had a feed of rice. Then with 5 sticks each & some newspaper they were off, Kim with them to stack & cover in rest house. I shall never be able to see newspaper being thrown away without thinking of the paper hungry Papuans. Made up bats, unpinned specimens--good drying day--and took off bird skin cotton. Some of them are not too bad--my first field skins. Poor bat shooting tonight but I did find a Cuscus "out on a limb" near camp. We pack up tomorrow. Word from Ken should reach us on Saturday. He should have reached Mapamoiva & radio communication with Samarai today. Losima is first cook today--he made a good meat & potato pie for dinner. Friday 30 October #2 Camp We received a note by runner from Ken today saying that he has been in radio contact with Samarai: Geoff is improving; he will be allowed to travel by air; Dusty has booked us south on Thursday, Nov. 12; the "Jessie" is on her way to Normanby & will be sent on to pick us up at Bolu Bolu early next week. Cables have gone to U.S. from Len advising that we are terminating expedition. Ken's trip to Mapamoiva was uneventful. Traps came in today--our Melomys remains a unique specimen. Spent day packing our gear; we are ready for the early arrival tomorrow of carriers. A few drops of rain--our first in this camp. Len will botanize on the way down to Wakonai tomorrow and I may have a day or two to pick up last minute specimens from the village. We are sorry to miss our collecting on Normanby but there's always the future. I can hardly believe the expedition is

[illegible]

Friday 30 October 1953 (cont) #2 Camp over. This is the end of our 32nd week in the field. Wrote long letter to Dr. and Mrs. Lord. Saturday 31 October #2 Camp to Wakonai (Rest House) Up early to break camp and ready loads for carriers. Sunny day, as is our usual luck. Carriers on schedule and we left camp at 8:15. Len botanized on way down. I came on ahead with Wakonai councillor, Jack. From the burned over grass spur (890 M) we came down the first 400 M in a hurry--slippery rocks. Track crossed the Utamodi River at a place of tumbling cascades--a lovely stream. Jack has a garden house on a 430 M grass spur with a view of Fergusson Is. and Nuatutu Point. Rest house at 150 M. Took many pictures on way down. Paid carriers off. Ken had sent up 22 carriers from Beli Beli so I distributed loads to them & sent them off to our base at Bolu Bolu. Unfortunately I also gave them my ammo box which left me completely without shells since I had cleared out my collecting box. At dusk I found small bats flying over the river. I will send a runner down to Bolu Bolu tomorrow to bring back some shells. Bought a few lower mandibles and stone axes. Lovely cool night. Sunday 1 November Wakonai This is our last day in the field. Runner off early for Bolu Bolu. Took my camera up to the village. I wanted pictures of the stone platforms and the monoliths which lie on the perimeter. Took pictures also of various types of native houses. Paddy, the village policeman, strung out a woven pig net--they catch Wallabies too--so that I could get pictures. Len collected along the river. The day turned hot so I helped Len with his plants during the afternoon. During bat shooting time I had most of our boys scattered over the stream bed ready to haul in any bats that I shot. My eye was in and Losima recovered 2 from the water. Both different: one, new for Goodenough, looks like a tiny Miniopterus; the other is Scoteinus. My "last night" luck held as usual! After dinner Lik Lik and I went jacking down on the grass plain out to the Vivagani air strip. Did not hear or see a single Wallaby. Home to find Afufia carriers had arrived at boy house. Councillor had a beautifully carved handle for a stone axe (figure of a man). Also had a few more mandibles. Injected my bats with rum. Monday 2 November Wakonai to Bolu Bolu. Up at dawn to complete our loads. Plenty of carriers. We were off at 6:00 hoping to beat the heat of day. Len collected along the trail. At 7:00 the sun was high enough to beat down on us in the grass. Arrived at Bolu Bolu at 8:30 to find that the "Jessie" (one of Bunting's boats) had arrived. Ken had all our gear on the beach, and loading was under way. Had a feed of juicy pineapple to revive me. At Wakonai we gave out 2 drums of rice, the rest of our salt and one of the nylon flies. All the small villages have been very helpful to us. We sailed for Mapamoiwa on Fergusson Island at 11 A.M. Arrived at Mapamoiwa about 2 P.M. Greeted by Charles Corbett (E. M. A. --European Medical Assistant) and invited to have dinner and spend the night. Len went out to look for eucalyptus trees but found only Ti trees (close relatives). On way over we stopped at Nuatutu Plantation to pick up a 150 lb. pig that Ken had bought. Boys made a pen on deck. Shot a Scoteinus at dusk. This turned out to be my only Fergusson Is. specimen since jacking produced only 1 tree frog. Made up the 2 bats shot last night at Wakonai. An excellent dinner. We stayed

[illegible]

Monday 2 November 1953 (cont) Wakanai to Bolu Bolu up until 1:00 A.M. talking. Charley has many patients at the station (and all the family comes to stay with them). Tuesday 3 November Mapamoiwa to Samarai Up at 4:00 A.M. so that we could sail soon after dawn. Goodenough peaks clear. Wonderful views from the station. A long slow trip along the Fergusson and Normanby Island coasts. The tide was right at East Cape and we made good time across Milne Bay. We stopped at Norm Evenett's plantation to put the pig ashore. Arrived Samarai about 8:00 P.M. (after dark). B. P. was having a celebration to open their new store. I did not find Ailsa and Dusty at home, so after relaxing for a few minutes I went to hospital to visit Geoff. He is only a ghost of his former self--no use of right side and very little power of speech. Ailsa comes up with Dusty every night to visit and read his mail. Tony Skewes and Rus Webster have taken turns shaving him. Home to tell Dusty about the trip details and hear his plans for Geoff's trip home. Wednesday 4 November Samarai Worked on packing specimens and unpinning. Ken and I visited Geoff. Lionel gave me Trobriand Is. walking stick for Museum. Thursday 5 November Samarai. Packing Friday 6 November Samarai. Packing. Saturday 7 November Samarai Dusty and I went over to Burroughs Boat Yard in the Pixie. The "Betty Ann" is on the ways. Sariba Island is a historic spot; on the hill just up from the boat yard the Meek homestead was built. Later the Eichorn brothers lived there. All were British Museum collectors--chiefly birds, and insects. Sunday 8 November Samarai Dusty, Ailsa and I set off on the "Wari" for Doini Island (Clem Rich has a plantation there). We went around to the south side and I went ashore with 2 of the locals who were to show me an overhang where several dozen human skulls had been deposited. Collected 1 skull, 2 lower jaws and some odd teeth. Also a pipe. All seemed quite recent. The place is wet and in path of a rain gully. Some bones are disintegrating. The Suau people (island in eastern Papua) are said to bury their dead with the head above ground with a clay cooking pot over the head. No limb bones found with skulls. Went swimming (with plenty of sunburn cream). Ailaa dug up a tree for her new grounds. I collected a few shells for Miss Grobe. Swimming again at Deca Deca. Monday 9 November Samarai. Packing. Tuesday 10 November Samarai. Finished crating. Wednesday 11 November Samarai. All details for flight home arranged. Thursday 12 November Samarai to Cairns by flying boat. Len came as far as Port Moresby. He is staying to finish up Expedition business. Some little bureaucrat wired us that they would not give us an export permit

[illegible]

Thursday 12 November 1953 (cont) Samarai to Cairns unless we left a set of plants and zoological specimen duplicates in Port Moresby. It would take weeks. How silly can some people be? Customs also wants to charge us 10 o/o of the value of material used in Papua (about A £ 60). And yet we are giving them collections worth far more! Ran into rain squalls outside of Cairns. Ambulance waiting. To General Hospital. After dinner at Hides Hotel I called up George Brookes (sons John and Edward). Had a pleasant evening. Friday 13 November Cairns to Brisbane to Sydney. George down to see Geoff. Flew at 9:00 A.M. Smooth flight to new flying boat base outside of Brisbane. Don Vernon met me. Brought my suitcase and gave me a painting he had done in 1945. A good visit of an hour with him. Arrived Sydney just after dark--lights very beautiful. Met by ambulance; to Helene Private Hospital (Matron E. H. Draper) at Randwick. Qantas Airways have been very cooperative in every aspect of the trip. Customs very decent--no trouble. Stayed at Oriental Hotel at Kings Cross. Listened to the fight that all Australia was excited about--bantam weight. Gault and Carrothers--latter (Australian) retained title. Saturday 14 November Sydney--en route to Darwin. Shaved Geoff in A.M. He had a good quiet night. Down town to Angus & Robertson to buy a few books. Bought 2 kangaroo belts--l for Dory, a small sewing kit with beautiful scissors and a key case for K. and a new wallet for myself. Took Tram cout to White City tennis courts to see the N. S. W. Championships (round before the l/4 finals). 3 good matches: V. Seixas vs. D. Candy--volleying & service-- 3 close sets to Seixas; J. Bromwich vs. T. Trabert--went 5 sets--if Bromwich were younger the match would have been his--Trabert was passed & lobbed & out thought time after time but Bromwich started netting in the last 2 sets (Bromwich first won this championship in 1937 !); Rosewall vs. Wilderspin--both men have beautiful ground strokes and good all-around games--W. has a severe service, as has Rosewall, for his size--W. had R. 2 sets to 1 and 3 all in 4th when I left-- their play is too methodical to be very exciting. Billy Talbert and I. Ayre were playing the team which has as a member the 17 yr. old French jr. champion. Bromwich & Quist, the old doubles team, did not look too good against 2 unknowns. Ambulance called for Geoff at 8:00 P.M. To Mascot Airport. We are traveling by Constellation to London. Our plane will be the first to stop at Bangkok. Geoff has a bunk but quarters are rather close. Take off at 9:30 P.M. Seats very comfortable. Sent cables to Miriam Tate and Kay. Sunday 15 November Arrived Darwin at 5:00 A.M., just before dawn. Bus to a passenger accomodation station (shave, showers, beds, dining room) at Berrimah. Take off for Jarkata at 7:00 A.M. Singapore for the night. Took Geoff to hospital in ambulance. He is in good hands with Sister Collins. Staying at Raffles Hotel which has been completely refurbished since the Jap officers made a mess of it. Cold coming on so I went to bed at 5:00 P.M., woke at 11:00 P.M., walked around the block, had a ginger beer and to bed again. Flying straight line courses is no way to see the country. Calm. Monday 16 November Singapore--Bangkok--Calcutta. Bion River; C. on flood plain. On across India to Karachi. We will fly all night to reach Cairo at dawn. Tuesday 17 November Cairo--Rone--London & off for U.S.A. at 8:30 P.M.

[illegible]