Tuesday 12 May 1953 (cont) Against horizon.. Morning light clear--took pictures of other canoes against mangroves and mts. Poled part way. Finally reached Moi Biri Creek at 7:30 and then spent about 3/4 hr poling along narrow channel lined with mangroves. Saw fair sized Python in branches. G. did not collect. After reaching landing "orderly" confusion for a few minutes before our motley collection of carriers from various villages (4 women also--carry in net bags) picked out loads and lashed heavy ones to poles. Then off on the muddy track thru wet lowland rain forest. Geoff and I left landing at 9 and arrived at Kwagira at 10:10 A.M. K. is located on bank of a beautiful fast running mt. fed stream--gray green water. Rest house small but comfortable--at one end of the rectangular village. Ground well swept and clean; however, the usual pigs and screamy dogs were about. Boys built New Guinea beds for us. Tied our swag cover thru eyes and put poles thru which in turn were lashed to cross braces--just like stretcher. Went for swim later in day. Cold & deep enough for a few strokes. K. policeman a fine type. Saw Areca Palm--betel nut growing for first time. Ken met us in village to pay off men. Down from Biniguni. Wednesday 13 May Kwagira to Biniguni. (104) Up at 5 A.M. Quick breakfast. Carriers picked up loads at 6:15. Cross creek just outside of town. Geoff and I took boots off and waded, but Len was light enough to be carried! Left at 6:30. Ken and I arrived at Biniguni at 9:30 We forded several swift mountain streams--lovely green water. Went in nearly to my hips once. Glad my wristwatch is waterproof. The trail tunneled thru rain forest. My impressions were a blurr of huge buttressed trees, ferns and palms & unknown bird songs. Track still muddy from rains of last week. Old man at K. gave me 4 small rats just before I left. Put them in formalin as soon as I reached B. At B. we are close in to the western spur of Maneau. Ridge cut by huge gorge--visible from B. Slopes are covered with thick rain forest. Passed thru 2 small villages late in walk. Much betel nut. There was a big conference in front of rest house soon after we arrived. Head men & policemen from all neighboring towns. Ken was trying to get enough carriers to make climb up Maneau. Leng talk about terms & number of men. K. then paid off Kwagira men & they left in P.M. Spent P.M. getting gear segregated for Len & Geoff who start up tomorrow with 8 carriers. Ken & I follow on Friday with main lot of gear. We should arrive at Top Camp Sat. P.M. We had a good feed of Crested Pigeon or Guara tonight--good soup first & then fine tasting white meat. No good water --only tea & coffee. I am dying for some good mt. water. Fair & all quiet tonight. Took a walk in P.M. to bath place--spout of water out of hillside. So hot when I returned that I took hot bath. Tonight is cool. We are sleeping on floor. To bed 9 P.M. Thursday 14 May (105) Biniguni. Len & Geoff left for Mt. Maneau at 7:15 A.M. 8 carrier loads with them--no collecting gear--only food, tents, flys & personal swags. The plan is for Ken & myself to start up tomorrow with main carrier party and arriving Top Camp same day as Len & Geoff. Villager brought in big female white cuscus at 4 P.M. Fat, with tender skin. Will have to take up mt. with me. About dusk the councillors lined up available carriers in front of rest house. Ken took down their names and village. Only 37 men & 3 women plus 5 councillors showed up ready to climb Maneau. We need 60-70 ! Ken & I put aside Len's collecting gear & essential food for this partial carry. Some towns sent no men & it is a big problem to know how & where to dig up more carriers.