Document Pages

176 Pages
Page 1
PACIFIC CROSSING = P PI FRIDAY - JAN. 30, 1948 ON BOARD S/S MARINE PHOENIX BREAKFAST WITH GEOFF. LETTER WRITING + PACKING. STARTED OUT FOR CHINATOWN. CABLE CAR TO TOP OF HILL. TODACHROMES. NARROW, SIGN-RIDDEN STREETS, COLORFULL, DIRTY, FULL OF GROCERY STORES, DRUG STORES, CHOP SUEY HOUSES. MOST INTERESTING WERE THE WINDOWS FILLED WITH DRIED FAUNA + FLORA. COLLECTED MY FIRST SPECIMEN IN A CHINESE DRUG STORE - A SMALL (8") LIZARD (SP.?) - SPLIT, GUTTED, PARTLY BONED WITH SUPPORTING STICKS FROM LEG TO LEG, FRONT PART OF HEAD CUT OFF. CHINESE LADY BOUGHT FOUR OF THEM WHILE I WAS IN STORE - HOW I WISH I COULD SEE TO WHAT USE SHE PUTS THEM. COST $1.25. ALSO DRIED SEA HORSES, CLAMS, OYSTERS, SQUID, CHICKEN FEET (WITH SOMETHING TIED IN FEET), CHICKEN GIZZARDS, SEA CUCUMBERS, ROOTS, SEEDS AND DOZENS OF ITEMS WHICH REMIND ME OF NOTHING I HAVE EVER SEEN BEFORE. SOMEDAY I SHALL BECOME ACQUAINTED WITH A CHINESE DRUGGIST AND LEARN THEIR GOODS IN TRADE. THE GROCERY STORES WERE NEXT IN UN- KNOWN ITEMS. CHINESE CHILDREN SPENT BETTER SLANG THAN I DO, COULD NOT STAY LONGER. MRS. MCCASKEY CALLED TO SAY GOODBYE. HAD RECEIVED BIRD BOOK. GEOFF AND I CHECKED OUT OF HOTEL WHITCOMB. A MOST ADEQUATE PLACE FOR SHORT STAY. PIER 32 MATSON LINE. S/S MATSONIA + S/S PHOENIX BERTHED TOGETHER. BAGGAGE TAGGED AND PLACED UNDER LETTER STATION. PASSPORT + TICKET CHECKED QUICKLY. EVERYTHING HANDLED MOST EFFICIENTLY CONSIDERING NUMBER OF PEOPLE EMBARKING. TOOK TODACHROMES OF MATSONIA & PHOENIX. PORTER TOOK OUR LUGGAGE ABOARD - NO TROUBLE, BUT GEOFF & I KEPT OUR EYES ON HIM. HAVE HEARD OF MANY PEOPLE HAVING TROUBLE LOCATING BAGS. MATSONIA SAILED AT 5:15 - MUCH PAPER TAG THROWING. PHOENIX AT 6:00 P.M. - TOO LATE FOR SUNSET BEHIND THE GATE. THE LIGHTS OF SAN FRANCISCO VERY LOVELY FROM WATER. GEOFF AND I STAYED ON DECK UNTIL WE WENT UNDER THE GOLDEN GATE SHIP LIFTING TO SWELLS JUST BEFORE BRIDGE. WE ARE NOW QUARTERING THE SEAS AND OCCASSIONALLY ROLLING VERY HEAVILY. WE ARE AT SECOND SITTING - CAPTAIN'S TABLE
Page 2
GOOD STEWARD. GOOD PLAIN FOOD. CONSOMME, SALAD GREENS, HALIBUT WITH LEMON BUTTER SAUCE, POT ROAST, CHOC. ICE CREAM + CAKE. CAPTAIN NOT ON HAND - THE USUAL FIRST NIGHT CUSTOM. ONLY ONE COUPLE AT TABLE. PLACES FOR ABOUT 12. OTHER TABLES BADLY CROWDED. WE HAVE A SICK CABIN MATE. IN BED FROM START OF TRIP. SUFFERING FROM ? ONE OTHER MAN ALSO IN BED. CHILDREN ARE MANY, CONSPICUOUS, + NOISY + SMALL. HAVE NEVER SEEN SUCH A MIXED PASSENGER LIST. PUBLIC ROOMS NOT VERY LARGE, BUT WE WILL MAKE OUT. I HAD SHOCK OF LIFE WHEN I SAW THE NOVELTY SHOPS STOCK OF 16MM KODACHROME MAGAZINE FILM - ABOUT 30 ROLLS - THIS IS A SUPPLY THAT EVER KODAK IN N.Y. LACKS. IT TOOK ME OVER A MONTH FOR MR. BIDDLE TO FIND 12 ROLLS FOR ME (COST $6.75 - 50 FEET). SHIP IS FAR DIFFERENT THAN ANY I HAVE EVER TRAVELED ON. SINGLE SMOKE STACK SET FAR AFT. BOAT DECK TAKES PLACE OF PROMENADE DECK. SUN DECK BADLY CUT INTO BY MISC. GEAR. MORE ABOUT SHIP LATER. FEELS GOOD TO BE ON BOARD SHIP AGAIN. MY LAST TRIP WAS IN 1935 WHEN CATHERINE + I WERE IN BERMUDA. MOST PEOPLE LOOK BORED ALREADY. MANY ARE JUST LOOKING AT FELLOW PASSENGERS. THERE IS QUITE A CAMERA BRIGADE ON BOARD. WONDER IF THERE WILL BE ANY BIRD WATCHERS ON SHIP. CAN HARDLY WAIT FOR TOMORROW TO START LOOKING FOR SEA BIRDS. HAVE YET TO SEE MY FIRST ALBATROSS. THE FIRST BOOK ON MY LIST IS ALEXANDER'S "BIRDS OF THE OCEAN". IT WILL COME IN HANDY BEFORE END OF TRIP. GEOFF + I WILL PROBABLY TURN IN EARLY TONIGHT. SAILING DAY IS ALWAYS AN EXCITING DAY, BUT HOW MUCH MORE EXCITING THIS JAN. 30 IS THAN OTHERS - THE START OF MY FIRST FULL FLEDGED EXPEDITION! HOW VERY GRATE- FUL I AM TO MOTHER + TO DICK FOR MAKING THIS ADVENTURE OF THE MIND + BODY POSSIBLE. WILL START STUDYING THE COPY OF ELLIS TROUGHTON'S "FURRED ANIMALS OF AUSTRALIA" (1947-SCRIBNER'S) TOMORROW, I WONDER WHAT NEW DATA DR. TATE + I WILL ADD TO THIS COMPENDIUM OF MARSUPIAL + PLACENTAL LORE,
Page 3
P 2 SAT. JAN. 31, 1948 COURSE 228-11 [DECK NOON REPORT] ON BOARD S/S MARINE PHOENIX LAT. 34-32 N (Voyage 10) DIST. 289 MILES 5TH DAY 17 HRS. 15 MIN. (AV. SPEED 16.78 KNOTS) LONG. 127-07 W 289 MILES FROM SAN FRANCISCO 3851 " TO PAGO PAGO WE ARE SAILING A SMOOTH SEA TONIGHT - HARDLY A TRACE OF ROLL - NO PITCHING. NIGHT OVERCAST. VERY SLIGHT DRIZZLE. WHERE ARE THE GULLS AND ALBATROSSES THAT FOLLOWED US TODAY? BE- TWEEN 11-12 HRS. OF DARKNESS X S AVER. SPEED 17 KNOTS EQUALS APPROX. 200 NAUTICAL MILES. DO THEY FOLLOW WAKE AT NIGHT? DO THE GULLS EVER TAME TO RIGGING? DO G.S + A.S BED DOWN WHEN DARK FALLS, OR DO THEY RETRACE PART OF DAY'S FLIGHT. ONE OF GULLS IN FLIGHT TODAY HAD BROKEN LEFT 10'S ; 1 OF A'S (AD.) HAD WHITE SPOT BASE OF 20'S DORSAL. COUNTS AT VARIOUS TIMES: 8: A.M. - 9 DIOMEDER NIGRIPES, 6 LARUS CALIFORNICUS 10: A.M. - 4 D. N., 5 L.C. 11:30 A.M. - 4 D.N., 9 L.C. 12: M. - 6 D.N., 12 L.C. 4: P.M. - 4 D.N., 8 L.C. (2 BAND-TAILED - 1 BROWN) 4:30 P.M. - 4 D.N., 23 L.C.!, 2 RISSA TRIDACTYLA 5:00 P.M. - 6 D.N., 22 L.C. SAW MY FIRST D.N. OUT OF PORTHOLE AT 7: A.M. - REMINDS ONE IMMEDIATELY OF SHEARWATERS. I'M. HAVE WHITE BASE TAIL (COVERTS). DORSAL & VENTRAL - MARKED WHITE BASE 10'S. AD. COMPLETELY DART BUT UNEVEN SHADDED AREAS. WHITE AT BASE TILL + EYE LINE VERY CONSPICUOUS AS IS SHAPE OF BILL. KITTIWAKES VERY STRIKINGLY PATTERNED. DID NOT STAY NEAR SHIP MORE THAN 1/2 HOUR. WHERE DID INFLUX OF L.C. COME FROM? A WINTER-WANDERING GROUP? FOOD OR "MIGRATION" WANDERING? HAVE SEEN NO OTHER VESSEL SINCE LEAVING SAN FRANCISCO. I WISH OUR .410 HAD DYE PELLETS TO FIRE. WE COULD SOON SETTLE SOME OF THE SHIP-FOLLOWING PROBLEMS. GEOFF AND I ARE PRACTICALLY ALONE IN CABIN 101 - ONLY 4 OTHER PASSENGERS: ONE - DAVID FRIEZE HAS BEEN SICK SINCE BOARDING STARBOARD V.D. LOWER "E" SHIP. ANOTHER, SLEEPS ALL DAY - AS DOES FORE AFT GEOFF UPPER "D" STILL ANOTHER. MY BUNK MATE - A SCOTS- MEN'S ROOM (RETIRED) IS UP & ABOUT. HE IS HAVING A WONDERFUL TIME SEEING THE WORLD. IN (41. 6 MONTHS, WILL SPEND 6 MO. IN SYDNEY.
Page 4
HAVE BEEN BUSY READING "BIRDS OF THE OCEAN" TODAY. TONIGHT I BEGAN "CHARLES DARWIN AND THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE" - EDITED BY NORA BARLOW (HIS GRAND-DAUGHTER). THERE IS SOME BACKGROUND READING, THEN FOLLOW LETTERS WRITTEN TO HIS SISTERS + TO FATHER. BREAKFAST: SLICED FRESH PEACHES, ORANGE JUICE, SCRAMBLED EGGS + CANADIAN BACON, DELICIOUS "SWEET BREAD", BUTTER, JELLY, MILK. LUNCH: SOUP, FISH, LIVER + BACON, SALAD, CUSTARD DINNER: CONSOMME, FISH, LAMB, BAKED POTATO, STRING BEANS, YOUNG ONIONS, RADISHES, ICE CREAM AND CAKE. I NOTICE THAT NONE OF MY COMPANIONS AT THE CAPTAIN'S TABLE EAT SALAD. WE HAVE VERY ADEQUATE ROOM AT OUR TABLE, OTHER TABLES VERY CROWDED. WE HAVE 2 AUSTRALIAN COUPLES, AN AUSTRA. DOCTOR, GEOFF, MYSELF + THE CAPTAIN. THE CAPT. SHOWED UP TO NIGHT FOR THE FIRST TIME (AS IS CUSTOM). CAPT. JOHANNSEN - SWEDISH - MOST OF LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO. CONVOYED OVER BOTH ATLANTIC + PACIFIC. NOT TOO OBSERVING (YOU SEE HAWAII + YOU'VE SEEN ALL THE PACIFIC IS.) NOT TOO CURIOUS ABOUT NATURAL HISTORY - KNOWS NEXT TO NOTHING ABOUT BIRDS (HIS SHIP-FOLLOWERS). BLUFF, HEARTY - NOT A TUXEDO CAPTAIN. OUR DR. PASSENGER IS IN CHARGE OF ALL N.S.W. HOSPITALS. HAS SPENT 6 MO. STUDYING HOSPITAL ORGANIZATION IN CANADA, MEXICO, AND U.S. HE IS ONLY ONE I HAVE MET SO FAR WHO CAN APPRECIATE WHAT "OUR TRIP" MEANS. CAPT. IS A CONSERVATIVE: 1) DOESN'T LIKE NEWS 2) OR NEGROS 3) OR MIXED MARRIAGE 4) CALLS HIS SHIP A "THIRD-RATE TROOP SHIP" 5) THE PANAMA CANAL RUINED SAN FRANCISCO 6) SMOKES CIGARS 7) DRINKS MILK - BECAUSE I HAVE TO - TOO MUCH COFFEE DURING CONVOY DUTY. GEOFF IS CONSUMING A DETECTIVE STORY A DAY. HE INTENDS TO BUILD UP SHIP LIBRARY WHICH AT PRESENT HAS 0 VOLS. FILLED OUT AN ARRAY OF 6 FORMS TODAY FOR INFORMATION OF MATSON RECORDS + AUSTRALIAN ENTRY - I AM AN "ALIEN" OF COURSE. BOAT DRILL AT 3: P.M. VERY WELL ATTENDED. SHIP HAS BARKER SYSTEM WHICH IS MOST EFFECTIVE. SEA WAS COBALT BLUE TODAY - OVERCAST MOST OF DAY. SUN CAUGHT THE WAVE OCCASIONALLY. BIRD FIGURES LISTED ABOVE ARE AFFECTED BY AMT. + FREQ. OF GARBAGE DISPOSALS. BIRDS CON- GREGATE + MANY LINGER, CATCHING UP TO SHIP AT THEIR LEISURE. THE 2 SIGNIFICANT CHANGES: 1) DROP IN NO. OF ALBATROSSES 2) INCREASE IN NO. OF GULLS AT 4:30. HOW I WISH WE WERE IN A SAILING VESSEL WITH TIME TO REALLY STUDY SEA BIRDS. THE PACIFIC IS AN EMPTY WORLD - IF ONE IS NOT A NATURALIST.
Page 5
P3 SUN.- FEB. 1, 1948 DIST. 409 MILES DAY 24 HRS. 30 MIN. AVER.SPEED 16.71 KNOTS MILES FROM S.F. 698 MI. TO PAGO PAGO 3442 COURSE 226.27 ON BOARD 5/3 MARINE PHOENIX LAT. 29.50 N LONG. 132.56 W WE HAVE LOST 5° OF N. LAT. + GAINED ABOUT 6° OF WESTING. DAY PARTLY OVERCAST. LIGHT RAIN SQUALL IN P.M. SUN OCCASIONALLY. WE LOST OUR GULLS LAST NIGHT, BUT AT LEAST ONE OF YESTERDAY'S ALBATROSSES IS STILL WITH US - THE ONE (AD.) WITH BROWNISH-WHITE SPOT ON LEFT WING, DID NOT SEE IN P.M. WE HAVE ANOTHER - VERY DARK ADULT-WITH ^ IN LATE P.M. 7 BIRDS AT 8:30 A.M., 4 AT 6:P.M. NO OTHER BIRDS SEEN TODAY. NO STEAMERS. NO WHALES. THE PACIFIC IS AN EMPTY OCEAN; AS S.F. IS AN EMPTY HARBOR. CONTINUED READING DARWIN'S LETTERS TODAY; ALSO A FEW PAGES OF TARL PEARSON'S "GRAMMAR OF SCIENCE" - THE LATTER TAKES A LOT OF READING. THE MAIN INTEREST OF THE DAY WAS IN MEETING NEW PEOPLE. A CHAP WHO HAS SPENT MOST OF HIS TIME READING IN ISOLATION TURNS OUT TO BE A CULTURAL REPRESENTATIVE OF THE BRITISH CONSULATE TO AUSTRALIA (MR. CHARLES WILMOT). HE IS RESPONSIBLE TO THE CONSULATE FOR THE INTRODUCTION INTO AUSTRALIA OF ALL MANNER OF ENGLISH CULTURAL ATTAINMENTS. MUST GO CAUTIOUSLY OR "C" WILL STICK IN AUSTRALIAN THROATS. LATEST IMPORT "OLD VIC" COMPANY. KNOWS THE FOUNDER OF PENGUIN BOOKS WELL. STARTED ON SHOESTRING, ORDER FROM WOOLWORTH'S SAVED ENTERPRISE, PROFIT-SHARING, COMPANY IS PRACTICALLY A CAUSE NOT A BUSINESS. TOLD STORY OF "NEW YORKER'S REPORT ON HIROSHIMA BEING PUBLISHED AS A PENGUIN (500,000 COPIES). WOULD LIKE TO SEE PENGUIN PUT OUT MORE COLOR PLATES OF ART ETC. IN FOLDERS; ALSO RECORDINGS ON PLASTIC (E.G. FAMOUS PASSAGES FROM SHAKESPEARE). ANOTHER, AN AUSTRALIA - MR. JOHN F. GAFFNEY - TEXTILE REPRESENTATIVE IN AUST. FOR AN AMERICAN COMPANY. VERY PLEASANT, WELL SPOKEN, NO PRETENSE OF KNOWING EVERYTHING. ABOUT MY AGE, OR A LITTLE YOUNGER. HAD TO EXPLAIN DARWINIAN THEORY TO HIM. THERE IS NOTHING LIKE HAVING HAD TEACHING EXPERIENCE TO MAKE YOU THINK CLEARLY ABOUT A SUBJECT. COULD USE A LITTLE. ASKED HOW AUST. WOULD REACT TO HAVING THE ENGL. SEND THEM A CULTURAL REPRESENTATIVE - ANSWERED THAT IT WAS WELL TO HAVE OPPORTUNITY TO CHOOSE FROM VARIED ASPECTS OF CULTURE. (THN) DR. AT OUR TABLE: DR. ALAN B. LILHEY. AUSTRALIAN COUPLE = MR. + MRS. ROBIN C. SPEIGHT, CAPT. WAS AT TABLE TONIGHT. HE
Page 6
HAS A HOBBY OF BOTTLE THROWING - TO HELP OUT U.S. HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE MAP OUT OCEANIC CURRENTS. HAS HAD 17 RECOVERIES - UP TO 3 + 4000 MILES IN LAST ? YEARS. INVITED ME TO COME TO BRIDGE ABOUT 2: P.M. TOMORROW. SAYS ALBATROSSES DO NOT REST ON SHIP. PETRELS COME ABOARD OCCASIONALLY IN RAINY, FOGGY WEATHER - ATTRACTED BY LIGHTS. GULLS WILL REST ON CARGO BOOMS WHEN STORM COMING (WHEN SHIP NEAR COAST). NO OTHER BIRD WATCHERS ON BOARD. CAPT. IS FOLLOWER OF T. ROOSEVELT. DINNER: CONSOMME, RADISHES, CELERY, TURKEY, CRAN.S., CAULI- FLOWER, SALAD, ICE CREAM, CAKE + MILK. THERE ARE NO HUNGRY PEOPLE ON BOARD THIS SHIP. FOOD IS PLAIN, BUT WELL COOKED & IN GREAT PLENTY. FISH IS EXCEPTIONALLY GOOD. TURNED IN IMMIGRATION PAPERS TODAY AT PURSER'S OFFICE. 5 FORMS INCLUDING DECLARATION. MR. WILMOT TELLS ME THAT HE IS BUNKING IN DORMITORY CONTAINING 80 PEOPLE. GEOFF AND I ARE LUCKY. FRIEZE STILL SICK; I HAD DOCTOR COME TO CABIN TODAY TO SEE HIM. HAS A FORM OF INTESTINAL FLU.. CONTAGIOUS? OCEAN LIKE A MILL POND TO NIGHT. SHOWERED + DRESSED FOR DINNER TONIGHT. CAPT. PROMISES US HOT WEATHER SOON. WE ARE ABOUT MID-WAY FROM CALIF. TO HAWAII. GEOFF WON OUR INDIVIDUAL MILEAGE POOL TODAY - 405 (WAS 409) - I SAID 423. SEVERAL WAR BRIDES WITH BABIES RETURNING HOME MINUS HUS- BANDS (SO MRS. ROBIN TELLS ME). OTHER COUPLE AT OUR TABLE HAS MARRIED CHILD IN SAN DIEGO - VERY HAPPY. BELIEVES MOST WAR MARRIAGES (AUST. + AMER.) WILL WORK OUT WELL. NO DECK SPORTS TO SPEAK OF EXCEPT BEAN BAGS + A DISC IN SLOT GAME. TRYING TO KEEP PASSENGERS HAPPY WITH BINGO, DANCE, + MOVIE TONIGHT. CROWD IS QUITE WELL BEHAVED. HOWEVER, WRITING ROOM IS ONLY QUIET PLACE AT NIGHT INSIDE SHIP. "MORNING NEWSPAPER" TODAY - BOTH SIDES 1 SHEET PAPER. WHERE ARE THOSE ALBATROSSES TONIGHT? WONDER IF "HORY" STILL HAS ENGLISH SETTER - HOPE NO ONE CLAIMS HIM. HE NEEDS A DOG TO LAVISH HIS NATURAL BOYISH AFFECTION ON.
Page 7
P 4 MON. FEB. 2, 1948 Dist. 383 mi. Day 24 Hrs. 30 min. Ave. Sp. 15.64 knots To S.F. 1081 To Samoa 3059 4 1/2° OF SOUTHING - 5° OF WESTING AT 3:P.M. WIND E FORCE 5 TEMP. 64 OVERCAST MOST OF DAY - LIGHT RAIN SQUALLS - SEA FRESHENING ON DECK ABOUT 8:15. I ALBATROSS (D.N.). BUT THE EXCITEMENT OF THE A.M. WAS THE SIGHTING OF 6 TROPIC-BIRDS. THEY ARE, I GUESS, PHAETHON A. RATHEREUS (RED-BILLED T.B.) RATHER THAN P. LEPTURUS. THE BILL WAS SURELY RED, BUT FINE BARRING OF UPPER PARTS WITH BLACK WAS BEYOND RESOLVING POWER OF GLASS. P.A.A. BREEDS ON ISLANDS OFF W. COAST OF MEXICO + GALÁPAGOS. FLIGHT, OF COURSE, VERY CHARACTERISTIC. REMINDS ONE OF PIGEONS AT DISTANCE - CHALKY WHITE - STRONG FLIGHT. VERY OFTEN CLIMB INTO STALL - FLAP VIGOROUSLY, THEN SHORT GLIDE & RESUMPTION OF STEADY FLAP. 3 NEW(?) INDIVIDUALS SHOWED UP LATER IN A.M. SINGLE ALBATROSS UNTIL EARLY P.M. MAY NOT HAVE BEEN SAME INDIVIDUAL. FIRST PETREL AT 11:30 A.M.; ANOTHER AT 3:30 P.M. - DARK DORSAL + VENTRAL - (DID NOT SEEM Δ) WHITE RUMP, LIGHTER 2° COVERTS, TAIL NEARLY SQUARE OR WITH SLIGHT FORK, FLIGHT VERY SWALLOW-LIKE, WIND FORCE 5, NO FOOT PADDLING. ONE OF STORM-PETRELS - FITS DESCRIPTION OF OCEANODROMA CASTRO CRYPTO - LEUCURA (MADEIRAN S.P.) - BREEDS IN HAWAIIAN IS. AT 2:P.M. GEOFF AND I MADE USE OF CAPT.'S INVITATION TO BRIDGE. THE 3RD OFFICER WAS ON WATCH - HERMAN GOEBEL. YOUNG, WELL READ, SELF EDUCATED TO A DEGREE, KNOWS SHIPS, INTERESTED IN ELECTRICAL ENGR. AS APPLIED TO SHIPS - RADAR, LORAN, FIRE DETECTION APPARATUS. SHOWED US EVERYTHING ON BRIDGE & EXPLAINED WELL. SENT DETAILED WEATHER RE- PORT TO SAN FR. AT 6 BELLS (2:P.M.). TELLS ME CAPT. JOHANSEN HAS WONDERFUL REPUTATION WITH WEATHER BUREAU + HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE. SENDS FULL, ACCURATE, ON-TIME (EVERY 6 HRS.) REPORTS. CAPT. THROWS BOTTLES OVER TONIGHT 10:P.M. HAS CREW COLLECT BOTTLES - ASKS WHERE FROM - INVARIABLY REPLY "FROM PASSENGERS' QUARTERS"! 3RD GAVE ME RUN OF FORWARD GUN PLATFORMS FOR BIRD OBSERVATION - SAID THE MURPHYS ALSO USED. HE SERVED WITH BOB ALLEN IN ARMY MINE LAYERS DURING WAR (FOR 1 YEAR)! BOB INTERESTED HIM IN BIRDS TO SOME EXTENT. LENT ME 2 BOOKS (MUST BUY): "THE RAFT BOOK" - HAROLD GATTY - ON PRACTICAL PRIMITIVE NAVIGATION - SOME EXCITING NEW INFORMATION - ALSO SOMETHING BY MURPHY ON BIRDS, DRAWINGS - JACQUES, FISH, NICHOLS, "PACIFIC OCEAN HANDBOOK" - E.G. MEARS - COMPENDIUM TYPE - ALL INFO. ON BOARD 5/S MARINE PHOENIX LAT. 25-13 N LONG. 137-53 W COURSE 223-42
Page 8
H.G. HAS INVITED ME TO USE CABIN AT ANY TIME. OUR MERCHANT MARINE IS IN GOOD HANDS WITH HIS TYPE. FAVORITE SHIP WAS THE PRES. COOLIDGE — STRUCK MINES + SUNG. SHOWED ME MANY PICTURES OF BEACHED OR GROUNDED VESSELS. TELLS ME 2ND MATE IS AN EXPERT MODEL MAKER — KNOWS BOAT TYPES VERY WELL — COLLECTION OF PICTURES. TOLD OF VESSEL OF THIS TYPE CARRYING 3400 TROOPS, SLEEPING TIERS & BUNKS HIGH — STAND IN LINE 3 HOURS FOR MEAL. + SPEIGHT WILMOT, LILLEY, GAFFNEY + I HAVE HAD INTERESTING TALKS. WE DISCUSS EVERYTHING FROM M. PROUST, 18TH CENTURY FRENCH ART COLLECTIONS, + COMMUNISM TO THE NEGRO QUESTION, GROWING COLORED COTTON IN AUSTRALIA, + THE NEW CAPITAL CITY OF AUST. CANBERRA; ALSO ATOM SMASHING, AMER. VS. AUST. POLITICIANS, HOSPITAL CONSTRUCTION, CORRELATION OF NEW MEDICAL INFORMATION, BIRD WATCHING. IT IS FUN TO MATCH ONE'S IDEAS WITH THE ENGLISH AND AUSTRALIANS. WE HAVE SHAMEN DOWN INTO A GOOD CROWD. TODAY'S PAPER HAD A NOTE ABOUT REYNOLDS — BALL POINT PEN MILLIONAIRE — SENDING EXPEDITION TO WESTERN CHINA. AN INTERESTING TRIP — FIELD MUSEUM ? TEMP. 80° IN DINING ROOM TONIGHT. MEALS CONTINUE EX- CELLENT. PANCAKES FOR BREAKFAST, CHICKEN POT PIE FOR LUNCH, CONSOUME ROYAL, YA. HAM, CORN FRITTERS, ASPARAGUS TIP SALAD, CHOC. ICE CREAM + CAKE + GRAPES FOR DINNER. SPEIGHTS EX- PLAINED GOOD TEA MAKING TO ME TODAY. SAID AMER. NEVER USED ENOUGH TEA (1 LEVEL TSP. PER CUP + 1 FOR POT); AUST. NEVER USE ENOUGH COFFEE. MRS. SPEIGHT IS TAKING HOME 2 PRESTO PRESSURE COOKERS. BLUENESS OF WATER PARTLY DUE TO HIGH SALINITY. BLUE EVEN WITH COMPLETELY OVERCAST SKY. APPROACHING HAWAII, BUT WILL LEAVE WELL TO WEST. CHRISTMAS ISLAND MAY BE OUR FIRST LAND. SHOULD SEE MORE BIRDS TOMORROW. GEOFF AND I SLEEP LIKE 1 YR. OLDS. TO BED ABOUT 11:— + UP AT 7:30 — 8: THIS IS A NOISY SHIP — NO WOODEN DECKS — NO CARPETS, FEW CURTAINS. HOPE "HORY" STILL HAS "HIS" DOG!
Page 9
P5 TUES, FEB. 3, 1948 DIST. 387 (V.D. GUESS 391 - G.T. 400) ON BOARD 3/5 MARINE PHOENIX Lgth-Day 24 HRS. DECK NOON REPORT LAT. 20.25 N SPEED 16.13 KNOTS HONG. 142.32 W 1468 TO S.F. 2672 TO SAMOA COURSE 221.55 3 A.N. ABOUT MOST OF DAY; AT 5:30 THERE WERE 11 ASTERN. I HUNG ON UNTIL ABOUT 6:30 - ALMOST DARK. AT LEAST 6 WERE PRESENT AT 5: ACCORDING TO WILMOT. ANOTHER NEW SPECIES TODAY, BUT I WILL PROBABLY NEVER KNOW JUST WHICH SPECIES. A SMALL SHEARWATER WELL OFF PORT BOW - FLYING AWAY FROM SHIP - MAY HAVE 2:15 P.M. #### HAD LIGHT UNDERPARTS. ANOTHER SHEARWATER AT 5:15 - IT DEFINITELY HAD Lgt. VENTRAL SURFACE - WELL ASTERN. THE FREQUENT GARDAGE DISPOSALS MAKE COUNTING ALBATROSSES DIFFICULT. THERE IS A CON- TINUAL SHIFTING OF INDIVIDUALS FROM FAR ASTERN TO IMMEDIATE WAVE SEA VERY CALM. IN A.M. AS MANY AS 6 RAIN SQUALLS ON HORIZON AT SAME TIME - WE FINALLY PROWED THRU A LIGHT ONE. JUST PREVIOUS AT 11: A.M. I SAW FIRST FLYING FISH BREAK SURFACE - 5 OR 6, ANOTHER 1/2 DOZEN THROUGHT DAY. WONDER WHICH OF 20-30 SP.? CHASED BY EITHER OCEAN BOWITO OR DOLPHINS OR ?. TRAVELED SAME DIRECTION AS SHIP. SPENT MOST OF A.M. WITH GEOFF ON FORWARD GUN TURRETS. WE BOTH PICKED UP A SLIGHT CASE OF SUNBURN (FACE + ARMS) - HAD WHITE LIPSTICK ON FACE, MANY PEOPLE WITH GOOD BURNS. GEOFF IS TYPING AWAY ON HIS PORTABLE - SOUNDS LIKE HOME. VISITED BRIDGE ABOUT 3: P.M. H. GOEBEL (3RD OFFICER) ON WATCH. BORROWED U.S. DEPT. OF COMMERCE - WEATHER BUREAU - 'RECORD OF SHIP'S WEATHER OBSERVATIONS' FORM WITH ALL ENTRIES FOR TRIP - 4 ENTRIES DAILY. E.G. WATER TEMP. HAS INCR. FROM 54° ON JAN. 20 (10: P.M.) TO 73° AT 2:30 P.M. TODAY. MUCH INTERESTING DATA. WENT DOWN TO H.G'S ROOM TO ABSTRACT. NOT FINISHED AT 8 BELLS. H.G. HELPED FINISH. CAPT. STRIPPED TO WAIST - HAS FINE TATTOOED SHIP ON CHEST - DROPPED IN TO CHAT. LONG SPIEL ABOUT OVERBEARING PASSENGERS, COMMUNISM. THE VERY GENUINE HOSPITALITY AND LACK OF STIFF SHIRTED OFFICER DIS- CIPLINE MAKE THIS A DELIGHTFUL SHIP. COULD NEVER IMAGINE SUCH A SCENE UNDER ANY OTHER FLAG - 3RD STRETCHED ON DED, CAPT. STRIPPED + SMOKING CIGAR, PASSENGER COPYING WEATHER LOG - ALL RELAXED + CHATTING ON EQUAL TERMS. AND YET UNDER IT ALL THERE IS ABSOLUTE RESPECT + THE HARD CORE OF SHIP DISCIPLINE. IT'S A WONDERFUL COMBINATION AND ALMOST PECULIARLY AMERICAN. CAPT. TELLING US HE HAD TO DISCIPLINE 2 CREW MEN - LIKES BEST TO "TOUCH THEM IN THEIR POCKET BOOKS". NO C.I.O. THREATS NEITHER CAPT.
Page 10
OUTSIDE 3 MILE LIMIT. HE IS DOSS AND MEN RESPECT THAT KNOWLEDGE. RECOMMENDS THAT WE SEND AIR MAIL FROM SUVA IN FIJI RATHER THAN PAO PAO - NO REGULAR SERVICE FOR LATTER. STEAK (AUST.) DINNER TONIGHT - VERY GOOD. CAFE'S LIVER SLICES FOR BREAKFAST, PINEAPPLE + COTTAGE CHEESE - COLD TONGUE SALAD FOR LUNCH. TEMP. IN DINING ROOM 84° TONIGHT. BIRD WATCHING CUTS DOWN READING TIME. READ "RAPT MAS. STANBERRY BOOK" TODAY. MET SWISS GIRL - MOTHER OF 5 YR. OLD DAUGHTER. IS RETURNING TO AUST. AFTER 1 YR. AT HOME IN ZURICH. HEARD HER TALKING SWISS TO DAUGHTER. HAS LIVED IN AUST. 5 YRS. RETURN IS LIKE GOING INTO EXILE. DOES NOT LIKE COUNTRY OR PEOPLE - LACK OF CULTURE. HUSBAND A EUROPEAN DOCTOR - IN SYDNEY; PARENTS + FAMILY KILLED IN WAR - WILL NOT RETURN. MR. WILMOT SAYS HE CAN UNDERSTAND ATTITUDE OF GIRL BECAUSE FOR THE SOPHISTICATED, AUSTRA. IS AS YET SADLY LACKING IN CULTURAL URGE AND APPRECIATION. HOWEVER, HE HAS HIGH HOPES FOR FUTURE + ENGLAND THRU ITS CONSULAR REPRESENTATIVE FOR CULTURE WILL ATTEMPT TO DO ITS PART. AUSTRA. GROW QUANTITIES OF GRAPES - MAKE SOME EXCELLENT WINES (PARTICULARLY WHITE), ALSO SOME GOOD SHERRY, ALSO GOOD QUEENSLAND RUM. LITTLE EX- PORTED, BUT SELDOM SEE AUSTRALIANS DRINKING WINE. IRISH CATHOLIC + SCOTCH PRESBY. INFLUENCE VERY STRONG IN AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIANS IN GENERAL REFLECT HARD-WORKING, LOWER + MIDDLE CLASS, DEER- DRINKING, LITTLE APPRECIATION OF THE ARTS, INDUSTRIAL CITY TYPES WHICH SO COMMON IN ENGLAND. BELIEVES EDUCATION + EXAMPLE WILL WORK WONDERS. TO MORROW - ABOUT 3 P.M. - WE PASS HAWAII; 500 MILES OFF TO SSE. INCREASE IN BIRD LIFE AS REFLECTION OF COMPARATIVE CLOSENESS? CAPT. WARNS ME I'LL HAVE A BUSY DAY WHEN WE PASS CHRISTMAS IS. ONE OF OUR CABIN MATES, REV. WEGM, HAS SPENT SOME TIME IN PALESTINE. MORE LATER ABOUT HIM. TIME BACK 1/2 HR. TONIGHT.
Page 11
P = PACIFIC CROSSING P 6 WED. FEB. 4, 1948 Dist. 401 Lath. Day 24 - 30 Deck Noon Report Av. Speed 16.37 1869 to S.Fran. 2271 to Samoa ON BOARD S/S MARINE PHOENIX LAT. 15° 20' N LONG. 147° 04' W Course 220 - 30 Saw only 1 Bird today - came in well astern (from W.) turned + disappeared to N.W. - large, sailed + flapped (sea calm + not much wind) - white underparts, head (with some black - distribution ?) + neck white, bump ?, upperparts largely dark. It may be LAYSAN ALBATROSS (Diomedea immutabilis), but would not rule out one of larger SHEARWATERS. Late in day 5:15 P.M., dist. too great for accurate data. However, we may see others tomorrow - and settle point. (head + neck gave stocky appearance). No D.N. showed up all day. We came our closest to island of Hawaii about 3: P.M. - 50mi. off. Flying fish were in sight most of day - many small, some large. Flights of 40-50, usually 1-2-5-6. When tail touches H2O vibrates very rapidly, giving extra boost for longer sail. Lower part tail much elongated. Sky in P.M. filled with puff cumulus, strato cumulus, cirrus + cirrocumulus. Gov. has excellent bulletin on "Cloud Form". Copy on bridge. Filled in weather + misc. data chart from Bridge Reports. Capt. came on bridge to check report on meeting with S/S Rodman (Matson - on lease U.S. Maritime) - it is eastbound - stowaway on board. Capt. would like to take off but Rodman Capt. objects - why? Meet about 3:4: A.M. H.Goebel (3rd Mate) will have radar in operation. It is an event in this empty ocean! Question came up today about dist. of horizon from bridge of ship (45'). Flying PanAm Clippers worked out formula as follows: Range Vision = √ALT. X 1.225 miles i: Bridge Vis. about 8.5 mi, Capt. also said cannot see Pole Star from equator. 3rd Mate said he would like to teach me simple navigation - at least, Dead Reckoning. Read "Pacific Ocean Handbook" + "Raft Book" today. Became acquainted with Rev. George Wheen (Sydney) who has wife + two children (Helen 5, David 8) on board. Has finished study- ing for doctorate at Union Theological Sem. - 2 years. Has great respect for Dr. Van Deusen. He is English - in Tweedy, mission to Australia to organize training of youth leaders. He is fine open-minded liberal without usual core of stubborn fanaticism. I impressed also by teaching possibilities of audio-visual
Page 13
P7 THUR., FEB. 5, 1948 hgt. DAY 24 HRS. Speed 16.30 Dist. 384 2253 To S.F. 1887 Samoa On Board 9/8 MARINE PHOENIX LAT. 10.26 N LONG. 151.12 W Course - Various Steaming Time 23 HRS. 34 MIN. 26 MIN. DETENTION - TRANSFER OF STOWAWAY Met our first ship early this A.M. Picked up on radar at distance of 20 miles. Our Capt. finally convinced Capt. of S/S Rodman that much trouble in San Fran. would be averted if transfer were made at sea. Woke up early - noticed ship at rest. Not feeling well so did not go on deck. Transfer done very neatly according to Dr. Linley. Went to meals today but stayed on liquid diet. Possibly a slight attack of intestinal flu. Took nap in A.M. & P.M. Not much bird watching. Heard of only 2 birds being seen today. Mr. Speight spoke of seeing a shearwater type. Another man spoke of an "albatross" following ship for short time in A.M. Did not see any birds myself. Many Flying fish. Mr. Speight told of his father (a geologist in N.Z.) having received an Emperor Penguin skin from one of Shackelford exp- editions. Had skin made into muff and gave to his wife. Many years later his father gave muff to Mrs. S. when they went to visit him. Coming apart badly so they consigned muff to the waters of the Tasman Sea. Did not visit bridge today. Will catch up on my weather data tomorrow. Feel much better tonight. Rgv. Wheen showed me brochure which he had prepared des- cribing the War Memorial - Methodist Young People's Training Center to be built in Sydney. How much better to have a memorial of this type rather than statues or other useless ideas. Met Canadian couple tonight - going to settle in N.Z. He is physicist. She is from Winnipeg. Man came up to me today. Wanted to know if I were a zoologist. Posed question of chemical stimulation of rabbit ovary - development of egg without fertilization. I did not know to what stage rabbit embryo would develop under such circumstances. Do not think it reaches birth stage.
Page 15
P 8 FRI.- FEB. 6, 1948 DIST. 9TH. DAY Av. SPEED ON BOARD 3/5 MARINE PHOENIX LAT. 05.05 N LONG. 155.21 W To S. FRAN. To SAMOA COURSE MY FIRST INTRODUCTION TO A SOOTY TERN AT CLOSE QUARTERS CAME AT 11: P.M. TERN CRASHED TO DECK JUST IN BACK OF THE CHAIR IN WHICH I WAS SITTING (STARBOARD BOAT DECK). TROPIC BIRDS SURROUNDED THE SHIP, GIVING THEIR RASPING CRIES. WAS VERY SURPRISED TO FIND A TERN. TOOK IT TO WRITING ROOM TO MEASURE + TAKE NOTES (FORTUNATELY NO ONE THERE EXCEPT GEOFF - WHO WAS COMPLETELY UNINTERESTED IN THE WHOLE AFFAIR). THE STEWARD WOULDN'T HAVE LIKED THE BIRD, EITHER! TOOK TERN TOPSIDE + THREW IN LONG ARC AWAY FROM SHIP - DID NOT OPEN WINGS + FELL INTO WATER. I AM SURE BIRD WAS UNINJURED. HAD BEEN FLYING IN DARK + FISHING (HAVE SEVERAL FOOD REMNANTS FROM BILL - IN ALCOHOL). OF COURSE, I SUPPOSE I SHOULD HAVE KEPT UNTIL DAYLIGHT. SAW MY FIRST TURNS ABOUT 2:15 P.M. (5) FLYING IN TO SHIP OFF STARBOARD BOW - PROBABLY SOOTYS. SAW (6) AT 2:30 (MAY HAVE BEEN SAME). ALSO (1) LATER IN DAY. I WAS INVITED TO BRIDGE ABOUT 12:30 A.M. BY H. GOEBEL (3RD MATE). TALKED UNTIL 1:30. WHILE THERE SAW MY FIRST NIGHT-FLYING TROPIC BIRDS (2) OVER SHIP. DID SHIP SCARE THEM OFF WATER? SAW THE SOUTHERN CROSS AGAIN - FIRST TIME SINCE COLOMBIA. ROSE ABOUT 12: 10:30 A.M. - 3 MORE TROPIC BIRDS FLEW OVER (PROB. RED-T.) AT 2 P.M. 3 RED-T. T.B.S AND ANOTHER GROUP OF 4 LATER PLUS 1 STILL LATER. 2 BOOBIES AT NOON - NOT SURE OF SP. (POSSIBLY RED-FOOTED) - NOT A GOOD OBSERVATION. 2: P.M., 3 MORE - LONG RANGE. 2 LATE IN P.M. - 5:45 - THESE BLUE-FACED (S. DACTYLATRA) - ONE MAINLY BROWN ABOVE, WHITE BENEATH, 2 BROWN CHEVRONS EXTENDING FROM SHOULDERS (1 TO A SIDE) ONTO UPPER BREAST. "SHEARWATER" TYPE BIRDS: (1) AT 2: P.M., (2) AT 5:45 - 6: P.M. LATTER CAME FAIRLY CLOSE TO SHIP, BUT LIGHT NOW POOR. LOOKED COMPLETELY DART ABOVE & BELOW - NO WHITE ON RUMP - MAY HAVE BEEN SOME INDISTINCT WHITE UNDER WINGS - SUGGESTION ONLY. PRIZE BIRD OF DAY (1) FRIGATE BIRD AT 10: A.M. - FLEW LENGTH OF SHIP - SLOW GRACEFUL FLAPS - + DISAPPEARED ASTERN. IT'S 2:45 P.M., - I'M OFF TO BED WITH MY SQUID. MORE TOMORROW.
Page 16
MEN CAME INTO WRITING ROOM ABOUT 2:30 A.M. - THREW BLOTTER WITH TERN SQUID AWAY. WATCHMAN NOW HELPING ME ! FELL IN WITH SPIRIT OF OCCASION + EXCITEDLY REPORTED TO ME THAT LARGE BIRD HAD LANDED ON DECK. IT WAS GANNET - DESCRIPTION BELOW. I WAS VERY CAREFUL WITH BILL - EASY TO GRAB BY NECK - THEN WORK UP TO HEAD. SQUID IT DISGORGED ABOUT 4" LONG - NOT DIGESTED. WHEN THROWN FROM SHIP, TOOK FLIGHT READILY; BUT ATTRACTED BY LIGHTS + FLEW BACK ACROSS STERN HOUSE - COULD EASILY HAVE ITILLED SELF STRIKING RADIO OR GUY WIRES. THERE WAS CONTINUAL SQUAWKING ABOUT SHIP FROM SOON AFTER NIGHT-FALL - MOSTLY TROPIC-BIRDS. FOR ONCE PRACTICALLY ALL PASSENGERS KNEW THERE WERE BIRDS IN THE PACIFIC! IF ONLY "STAN" GRIERSON + "PUSS" PETERSON COULD HAVE BEEN WITH ME ON THIS TRIP ! WHAT A FIELD DAY (+ NIGHTS) WE COULD HAVE! IF I NEVER ARRANGE ANOTHER TRIP ALL MY LIFE, I AM GOING TO HAVE THEM IN THE FIELD WITH ME SOMEDAY. I THINK WE COULD REALLY CLEAN UP AS OBSERVERS + COLLECTORS. THIS IS NOT A COMMENTARY ON PRESENT TRIP - NO IMPLIED CRITICISM. HOWEVER, I CAN THINK OF NO TWO FELLOWS WHO COME CLOSER TO MY FIELD ENTHUSIASMS + IN A MORE CONGENIAL MANNER. THIS JOURNEY ACROSS 1000S OF MILES OF OPEN WATER IS REALLY AN AMAZING EXPERIENCE! I BELIEVE I COULD HAVE "TAKEN" A COUPLE OF YEARS ON A SURVEY SHIP OR WHALER AS "ASSISTANT NAVIGATOR"! POSSIBLE TO ACT AS OBSERVER ON "MOTHER SHIP" WHALER - AN IDEA FOR THE FUTURE. DESCRIPTION: GANNET - IMMATURE NO DOUBT (S. PISCATRIX) R.F. 13. BILL - PINKISH (PALE) - TIPS BROWNISH EYE SKIN - BLUISH FOREHEAD - BROWNISH {TIPPINGS} TO SHORT FEATHERS HEAD - NECK - NAPE - UNDERPARTS - WHITE TAIL + WINGS - BROWN (DORSAL + VENTRAL) FEET - WEBBED (4 TOES) PINKISH (GOOD) BACK - BROWN { DISGORGED SMALL SQUID - ABOUT 6-8. { LANDED ON DECK AFTER WATCHMAN CALLED ME 2:15 A.M. THROAT - PALE LAV. GRAY (FEB.7) PASSED 10-15 MILES N + W. OF CHRISTMAS IS. A POOR RADAR TARGET - TOO LOW. ABOUT 1:30 A.M. (FEB.7). A SHAME WE DIDN'T PASS IN DAYLIGHT! STIFF CURRENT SETS TO N. OF IS.
Page 17
P9 SAT.-FEB. 7, 1948 AVER. SPEED - 16.71 KNOTS ON BOARD S/S MARINE PHOENIX DIST. 401 MI. LAT. 0° 08'S ! DAY 24 HRS. [NOON DECK REPORT] LONG. 159° 27' W 3060 TO SAN FRAN.; 1080 TO SAMOA COURSE - VARIOUS CROSSED EQUATOR AT 11:15 A.M. (LONG. 159° 21' W) PASSED TARVIS ISLAND ABOUT 2:30 P.M. (STARBOARD - 10-15 MI.) UP AT 7: A.M. CALM SEA, AS USUAL. BETWEEN 7:30 & 8: A.M. ABOUT 15 GANNET - WELL OFF - LOW OVER WATER. 2 GANNET IN CLOSER 1°+2° DARK. AT 8:30 A.M., 25+ TERNS (PROB. SOOTY) FISHING, WELL OFF. FROM 10: TO NOON SPENT IN LOOKING AT MRS. STANBURY'S ALBUM OF SWISS PICTURES - ON FORWARD HATCH IN SUN. DR. LILLEY JOINED US LATER; INVITED ME TO SEE HIS PICTURES. ONE LONG BLAST ON WHISTLE WHEN EQUATOR CROSSED - IN SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE FOR FIRST TIME IN MY LIFE! CHOSE IN COLOMBIA, BUT NEVER SERIOUS- LY THREATENED BEFORE. ANOTHER 20+ TERNS SEEN GOING PAST. BIRD NUMBERS MEAN LITTLE TODAY - WE ARE NOT TOO FAR FROM CHRISTMAS IS. + TARVIS IS AHEAD - OTHER SMALL ISLANDS TO NORTH & N.E.. MIDDLE OF DAY AND THE FLIGHTS ARE IN EVERY DIR- ECTION. A FEW FLYING FISH THIS A.M. AT 12:15, 3 RED-T. TROP-BIRDS OVER SHIP AT 12:30, 50+ SOOTY TERNS AT 12:45 P.M., 3 GANNET (1°+2° DARK) 1 ALL-BROWN GANNET AT 1: P.M., 2 FRIGATE BIRDS (SPREAD TAIL IN BANKS) 1 PETREL - WITH WHITE TRUMP (SHAPE TAIL + WHITE PATCH ?) - FAIRLY SMALL. TO BRIDGE FOR METEOROLOGICAL REPORTS. COPIED MORE WEATHER CODE DATA. CAPT. DROPPED INTO 3RD'S CADIN & CHATTED FOR A FEW MINUTES - BROUGHT ME BOOK TO READ "WEATHER AROUND THE WORLD". AT 3: P.M. 5 TERN (NNE). ANOTHER GANNET (1°+2° DARK). GOEBEL OFF WATCH - TALKED A BIT (ABOUT STATE OF WORLD - CIVIL WORLD SHOULD TAKE STOCK OF SELF AND STOP LIVING SELFISHLY & FURIOUSLY IN THE PRESENT). LIKE H.G. VERY MUCH - IT KNOWS WAY AROUND AND VERY SOUND. SAW DR. LILLEY'S PICTURES - BLOWS UP 2½ SQ. BLACK + WHITES THEN PAINTS USING TRANSPARENT OILS. SOME VERY BEAUTIFUL PRINTS. SCENERY - BOTH COUNTRYSIDE + HUMAN (IN BATHING SUITS) - VERY LOVELY. COLORS TRUE BUT OF COURSE PAINTING IS NOT QUITE
Page 18
PROF. EVEN THO HE HAS DONE ABOUT 1000 PRINTS. DOES FOR COMPLETE RELAXATION AFTER DUTY. NOW I UNDERSTAND WHY HE TOOK SUN- SET IN BLACK & WHITE. N.S. WALES HAS SOME BEAUTY SPOTS IN ITS HILLS AND RIVERS. AT 5:15 P.M. MR. SPEIGHT + I ON DECK - 5 TERN(S) (Sty.) TO NNE AT 5:30 P.M. 1 S. TERN NNE 5:45 - 3 TERN, 3 FRIGATE BIRDS TOGETHER (NNE) 6:00 - 10 TERN (NNE) 6:15 - 1 GANNET: HEAD + UPPER NAPE BROWN, FACE STIN BLUISH - BILL "LIGHT", PART OF BACK BETWEEN WINGS WITH WEDGE SHAPE - WHITE, NECK + UNDERPTS. WHITE, WINGS COMPLETELY DARK; EXCEPT SOME OF VENTRAL COVERTS; FEET "DARK", SOME VERT. WHITE STREAMING ON HEAD BEHIND EYES 6:30 - 5 TERN 6:45 - 1 GANNET: HEAD, NECK, UNDERPTS - WHITE, BROWN CHEVRONS CUTTING INTO WH. UNDERPTS. WINGS DARK (DOR. & VENT.), FACE BLUISH. - FLEW AROUND SHIP SEVERAL TIMES AT CLOSE RANGE ALL TROPIC BIRDS HAVE THEIR RED TAIL FEATHERS INTACT. SAW T.B. STEER WITH FOOT. H.G. HAS BOOK "STORM" FOR ME TO READ - ALSO GLEN CANNON STORIES. GEOFF IN BRIDGE TOURNEY TODAY - SURVIVED FOR NEXT ROUND. DR. KILLEY HAS MET NURSE KENNEY - (QUEENSLAND "BUSH") - SHE DOES THE TALKING - TERMINATES INTERVIEWS ABRUPTLY. IS EVIDENTLY PERSONA NON GRATA IN AUSTRALIA NOW. MAKES GREAT SECRET OUT OF METHOD. NOT A MICROSCOPIST - DAS. CAN DEMONSTRATE LESIONS BUT SHE IS SCEPTIC. DAS. CANNOT STUDY CASES IN DETAIL; THEREFORE, HER WORK CAN NOT BE PROPERLY EVALUATED. POLIO CLINIC IN SYDNEY- OF LAST 1000 CASES (E.G.) ONLY 20 CHOSE KENNEY TREATMENT - FREE CHOICE. FILET OF SOLE, VA. HAM - ORANGE SAUCE, GREEN BEANS, ICED TEA, + ICE CREAM FOR DINNER. 92° IN DINING ROOM TODAY NO MORE MOTION ON SHIP THAN FERRY TO N.Y.C. MET MEMBER OF CREW TODAY MR. PARKS, BERKELEY, CALIF. WHOSE HOBBY IS AVIARY - BRINGS BIRDS BACK FROM ALL OCEAN TAPS (OFTEN ILLEGALLY). ONCE FED GROUP OF MYNAS ALL ACROSS PACIFIC - WHEN SHIP WENT UNDER G. GATE BRIDGE ALL FLEW UP TO IT. BIRDS IN FIJI WELL PROTECTED!
Page 19
P10 SUN. FEB. 8, 1948. DAY 24 HR. 30 MIN. ON BOARD S/S MARINE PHOENIX DIST. 405 DECK NOON REPORT LAT. 5° 33' S Av. SPEED 16.54 LONG. 163° 28' W 3465 TO S.F.; 675 TO SAMOA. COURSE 216.42 (Prob. Sooty) ON DECK ABOUT 6: A.M. - SEA VERY CALM - FLYING FISH. 2 TERNS SEEN AT 6:15 (FAR OFF). A FEW PEOPLE ON DECK, INCLUDING NUNS. ONE OF WHOM WAS ENJOYING HER CHEWING GUM JUST LIKE A GOOD SUBWAY SLIDER. THE DAY ENDS WITH A TERN, TOO! HAD JUST COME ON DECK TONIGHT AFTER DINNER WHEN ONE OF THE GIRLS CAME TO TELL ME SHE HAD JUST CAUGHT A BIRD THAT HAD FLOWN AGAINST RIGGING - IT IS A SOOTY T. SHE VOLUNTEERED TO GIVE ME A RAYON STOCKING (WITH A HOLE IN IT), SO THAT I COULD TUCK BIRD INSIDE FOR THE NIGHT. THE FALCONERS ON ASSATEAGUE IS. SHOWED ME THAT TRICK. DECIDED NOT TO CHANCE ANOTHER TERN LANDING IN THE DRINK - NOTHING BROKEN - HOPE NO INTERNAL BLEEDING - WILL THROW OFF IN DAYLIGHT - SHOULD TAME WING THEN. GIRLS INSIST ON SEEING THE SHOW - 8:30 A.M. - PORT BOAT DECK. AT 8: A.M. - WELL OFF - (1) APPARENTLY ALL-WHITE TERN - TOO FAR FOR ANY FURTHER NOTES. AT 12:30 P.M. ANOTHER - SAME COND. ALSO AT SAME TIME 3 FRIGATE BIRDS, TOGETHER, LOW OVER WATER - FAR OUT. SPENT PART OF A.M. + MOST OF P.M. COPYING WEATHER CODE RND WITH H.G. (3RD MATE) BONEING-UP ON COMPASS POINTS, CORRECTIONS FROM COMPASS COURSES TO TRUE COURSES, TERM- INOLOGY, SHIP TONNAGES DEFINED, MIDDLE LATITUDE + BOWDITCH TABLES. (1) WHEN CORRECTING FROM A COMPASS COURSE TO A TRUE COURSE APPLY E'LY COMPASS ERROR CLOCKWISE, "Why" "Counter"; (2) COMPASS BEST, ERROR WEST; COMPASS LEAST, ERROR EAST. RAINSQUALLS ABOUT 5: P.M. - CLEARED AIR CONSIDERABLY. DR. HILLEY & I STOOD AT TAIL WATCHING FOR PETRELS: AT 5:15, 3 - WHOLLY DARK EXCEPT FOR SMALL WHITE MARKINGS ON UPPER SURFACE OF WING, ABOUT 1/2 WAY OUT, MODERATELY LONG TAIL, COULD NOT SEE TAIL SHAPE - ALL IN NNE DIRECTION (ACTUAL ?) AT 5:20, 1 PETREL ENTIRELY BLACK EXCEPT BREAST & UNDERPARTS, (UNDER TAIL COV.?) WHITE SCATTERED ON UNDER WING COVERS. LENGTH - ABOUT 13-14", MODERATELY LONG TAIL - SEEMED SQUARE CUT.
Page 20
AT 5:30 P.M. - 1 ST. TERN FLYING ABOUT SHIP. TONIGHT AT 8:45 S.T. CAME ABOARD + AT LEAST 2 (R.T.) TROPIC BIRDS OVER SHIP. YESTERDAY (WHILE AT BREAKFAST) - A GROUP OF POR- POISES WAS SEEN FROM SHIP - 9:30 A.M. TODAY MORE NEAR SHIP - ABOUT 200 ONE MAN ESTIMATED. WHILE AT LUNCH - A SPERM WHALE SEEN NOT TOO FAR OFF! HAVE STARTED READING "STORM" - A NOVEL WHOSE CEN- TRAL FIGURE IS "MARIA", A STORM. METEOROLOGICAL DATA + TALK OF SHIPS' REPORTS ALL VERY INTERESTING. ALSO READING - "WEATHER AROUND THE WORLD" - RAINFALL IN CAPE YORK REGION 80" PER YEAR - GENERAL AVERAGE. "GEORGE" GAVE A BIRTHDAY "PARTY" FOR A 21 YR. OLD AUSTRALIAN BLONDE - OUT OF WEST AUSTRA. RETURNING ON ACCOUNT OF HEALTH - HUSBAND STUDYING (AMER. X - G.T.), WILL GO TO AUST. LATER. G.T., MR. WILMOT, MRS. GARNEE - WE LEARNED THAT THIS IS ALSO HER FIRST WEDDING ANNIVERSARY -; A MRS. FITZER (FROM N.Z.) AND I. IN LOUNGE, 25+ PRESENTS, PLENTY OF ICE, COCA-COLA (FOR ME) + OLIVES + CHEESE. BELIEVE SHE GREARLY APPRECIATED THE ATTENTION. WILMOT A LOT OF FUN. TOOK 2 WHISKEY BOTTLES TO CAPT. FOR HIS DRIFT EXPERIMENTS. SAYS STURDY, SQUARE, CLEAR BOTTLES BEST BUT HARD TO FIND. NO MOTION TONIGHT. 94° IN DINING ROOM THIS NOON. STANDING HEAT WELL. TOOK SHIRT OFF FOR A FEW MINUTES AT NOON TODAY - TAKING SUN EASILY. "GEORGE" DID NOT SURVIVE BRIDGE SEMI-FINALS. PARTNER SOLELY AT FAULT - WOULD NOT BID HIS HANDS. I BELIEVE I AM THE BUSIEST + HAPPIEST PASSENGER ON BOARD SHIP - BIRDS, BOOTS, NAVIGATION, GOOD FRIENDS. HOW MATHERING WOULD ENJOY THIS LIFE. SUN TOO HOT + SEA TOO CALM ON THIS RUN TO SUIT MOTHER. DAY LAUNDRY COLLECTED TODAY. DELIVERED BEFORE WE REACH SYDNEY. AND SO TO BED - HOPE TERN SURVIVES. WENT ON DECK + THEY HAD ANOTHER TERN FOR ME.
Page 21
P 11 Mon. Feb. 9, 1948 Dist. 385 Day 24 Hrs. 00 Deck Noon Report Av. Sp. 16.05 3850 To San Fran.; 293 To Samoa Course 217.38 On Board 5/5 Marine Phoenix Lat. 10° 38' S Long. 167° 24' W Rain squalls around ship all P.M. The day ended as it started — with V.D. throwing birds off the ship! This morning at 8:30 we took the 2 Sooty Terns out of their silk stocking sleeping bags, & I threw the vigorous one over first — his wings took hold & he flew away steadily; the quiet one held his own momentarily but then volplaned gently to sea — wings spread on water. Probably no hope for latter — an internal injury? Tonight they came for me in the writing room. Another petrel of same species that H. Goebel — the 3rd mate — captured on deck last night. I caught the one tonight without his lacerating me with his powerful hooked beak. Dr. Lilley helped hold while I satisfied myself that it differed in no manner from the 3rd’s — description follows: 2 separate nostril openings on small central raised structure 4 toes — 2-3-4 webbed No.1 vestigial outer edge of toes brownish — also along bones (dorsal + vent) lavender leg color — outside, pinkish brown — inside, pale pink. (dorsal + ventral) webs of toes — pale pink with obvious blood vessels first 1° longest — 1°s outer vane black; inner, blackish-br. under-pts brownish-black, also under tail coverts upper trail coverts; upper parts same but blacker Top head — slaty-black; throat, slate gray (also sides of Hd.) culmen 1 7/16"; tarsus (rough meas.) 1 3/16 Tail 4 3/4" — 2 central feathers black, also longest Total length — 16" (or slightly longer) Wing — 11 1/4" 1° shafts (dorsal) dirty pink, bases white. (ventral) black. 2° shafts — white — see drawing for head Lat. — H. Goebel’s petrel Long. — H. V.D.’s " (0:30 P.M.) Mr. Speight saw 3 petrels “all dark” this A.M. (same as above?) I saw one tropic bird — about noon? — white tail, feathers — seemed to have dark band on wings (shadow of under surface?) — well off. Hard light sinds Hepache today — took it easy. Read & slept in deck chair and in bunk. Feel fine tonight.
Page 23
P 12 TUES. FEB. 10, 1948 ON BOARD S/S MARINE PHOENIX SHIP DOCKED 8: A.M. AT PAGO PAGO, AMERICAN SAMOA SHIP SAILED 2: P.M. FOR SUVA, FIJI ISLANDS. EARLY A.M. - GRAY WATERS - AND THRU THE PORT HOLE I HAD MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF THAT LOVELY ISLAND - TUTUILA - OF STRANGE GREENS, SUCH AS I HAD NEVER SEEN BEFORE - EXCEPT THRU THE ARTIST EYES OF JACQUES, MANTLING GEOLOGICALLY YOUTHFUL HANGING HILLS. SUN WAS TINTING THE EASTERN SKY WHEN I CAME ON DECK AND SOON WE WERE IN THE PASSAGE BETWEEN A SMALL ROUNDED ISLAND TO THE SOUTH, THE TURRETED ISLAND, IN A SHELTERED HARBOR OF WHICH LIES PAGO PAGO. THE LIGHT WAS BETTER NOW AND THE UNREAL GREENS CONTRASTED WITH THE GRAYER, WRAPPED RAMPARTS OF VOLCANIC HEADLANDS. TERNS & PETRELS WERE AROUND THE SHIP, AND THE WHITE FAIRY TERNS AND TROPIC BIRDS WHEELED AGAINST THE HANGING TREES OF THE GREAT TABLE-TOPPED MASS OF VEGETATION ENCRUSTED CINDER BLOCK THAT DOMINATES THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE ISLAND. THE HARBOR ENTRANCE SHOWS AND OUR SHIP SWINGS GRACE- FULLY TO STARBOARD, DWARFED BY THE SKY-TOWERING RIDGES & PEAKS TO THE WEST. THE SWELL IS EVERYWHERE BURSTING INTO SURF AGAINST THE BLACK VOLCANIC EX- POSURES OF SHORE LINE. COCONUT TREES RISE FROM THE BEACH FRONT AND THE HIGH-DOMED OVAL NATIVE HOUSES NESTLE AMONG THEM. THEN THE ILLUSION OF UNSPOILED SAMOA IS SHATTERED AS THE INNER HARBOUR OPENS. LOW-LYING SHEDS WITH CORRUGATED METAL ROOFS, A DESTROYER AT HER DOCK, UGLY RADIO TOWERS, THE LEFT OVER METAL DEBRIS OF WAR'S PREPARATION. BUT DOMINATING ALL ARE THE STEEP-SIDED GREEN HILLS. THE SHIP IS WARCED INTO HER DOCK, A NAVY BAND, COMPOSED OF NATIVE SAMOANS DRESSED IN WHITE SKIRTED COSTUMES, BURSTS INTO A MARCH MEDLEY THAT SEEMS STRANGELY UNSUITED TO THE OCCASION. BUT THE GESTURE IS FRIENDLY AND THE DOCK IS CROWDED WITH SHIRTED MEN & BOYS, AND STURDY WOMEN DECENTLY CLOTHED IN HIDEOUS LONG-SHIRTED "SHIRT WAISTS", WHO ARE JUST AS CURIOUS ABOUT US AS WE ARE OF THEM. THE GANGWAY IS DOWN & THE TORRENT OF CURIOSERS IS UNLEASHED.
Page 24
ASHORE AT 8:30 . STARTED OUT ALONG THE WEST SHORE ROAD . THE GOVERNORS HOUSE STANDS ON A LITTLE RIDGE OVERLOOKING THE TOWN . A LITTLE NATIVE HOUSE WITH METAL ROOF ON A STILL HIGHER RIDGE - THE SLEEPING MATS HUNG IN THE MORNING SUN , A BUNCH OF BANANAS HANGING AT THE CORNER OF THE PORCH , AND THE LADIES OF THE HOUSE , BARE TO THE WAIST + COMFORTABLY SEATED , LOOKING DOWN AT THE MORNING'S EXCITEMENT . STEEP HILLSIDES COVERED WITH THE ALL ENVELOPING TANGLE OF TREES WINEs , MOSSes , FERNS + GRASSES - A TANGLE FIT ONLY FOR A BOTANIST AND LIZARDS + BIRDS . THE LAND BIRDS WERE EXPERTS AT KEEPING OUT OF SIGHT ; A FEW GLIMPSES OF A GRAYISH-WHITE (?) BIRD - CATBIRD-LIKE ; A ROBIN-SIZED BLACK BIRD - WAS IT THE ONE MAKING THE WHISTLED NOTES ? ; A GREEN- ISH BIRD - FLICKER-SIZE . SHOREBIRDS SEEM TO BE ALL OF SPECIES - DRAB BROWNISH-GRAY ABOVE , LIGHTER BELOW + WITH YELLOWISH LEGS . ABOUT A MILE OUT OF TOWN PASSED AN OPEN- SIDED SAMOAN SCHOOL - CHILDREN SEATED ON FLOOR RECITING THEIR LESSONS IN UNISON . A LITTLE FURTHER ON A YOUNG GIRL CAME TOWARDS ROAD CALLING "YOU WANT PICTURE?" HER HANDS WERE AT SHOULDERS OF HER BLOUSE , AND THE OBVIOUS INTENTION WAS TO LOWER HER COLORS IF I WANTED HER PICTURE - AT A PRICE . NEXT A SMALL BROWN BOY , WITH RAGGED BLUE SHORTS + A STRAW HAT , CARRYING A FISHING POLE + A STRING OF FISH - HE CALLED THEM "PULO" . HE WAS USING A VERY SMALL HOOK WITH A WHITE FEATHER ATTACHED , + STILL WHIPPING THE WATER CLOSE TO SHORE . THE FISH WERE 4-5" LONG , STEEL BLUE ABOVE , LIGHTER BELOW , WITH A SCIMITAR- SHAPED TAILED , LATERALLY COMPRESSED . HE WALKED ALONG ON THE LAVA ROCKS WITH COMPLETE LACK OF CONCERN FOR THE SKIN OF HIS FEET . I COLLECTED SOME SAND SAMPLES FOR BILL DOWNIN - SAND IS CORAL . FINALLY REACHED OUTER HEADLANDS . THE SUN ON THE LINE OF SURF WAS BEAUTIFUL , CAME TO A YUTTING BLOCK THAT REACHED INTO INNER WAVE WASH ; STRIPPED DOWN TO MY SHORTS AND THEN TRAILED MY FEET IN THE GENTLE SURF ; FINALLY SLIPPED DOWN INTO THE SHALLOW WATER AND LET THE WAVES ROLL OVER ME . ANOTHER MAN HAD WALKED OUT FROM TOWN + WAS HOLLING IN THE WATER NEAR ME . WATER WARM - SURELY ABOUT 82° ! SUN WAS HIGH + HOT SO FINALLY SLIPPED INTO CLOTHES + FLAGGED
Page 25
P13 [FEB. 10 - CONT.] A RIDE BACK TO TOWN IN A JEEP. THERE ARE A NUMBER OF GUN RUNNERS - CONCRETE + STEEL SCATTERED ALONG THE COAST. FORTUNATELY THEY WERE NEVER USED. PASSANGERS WERE POURING ON & OFF SHIP LIKE A STRING OF LEAF-CARRYING ANTS! ARMS FULL OF GRASS MATS, GRASS SHIRTS, FANS BORDERED WITH FEATHERS, BASKETS, HATS DECORATED WITH TAIL PLUMES OF TROPIC BIRDS, WOODEN OUTRIGGER CANOES, MANGOES, PINEAPPLES, COCONUTS, WOODEN CEREMONIAL SWORDS, SHELL RINGS, NECKLACES, AND WOODEN SALAD + RELISH BOWLS. ONE OLD MAN HAD A NOVEL "SALES" TALK. STARTED BY ASKING IF I HAD WIFE, THEN PRESSED SOME TABLE MATS INTO MY HAND - "PRESENT FOR WIFE", THEN SAID HIS WIFE SICK IN HOSPITAL, WOULD I GIVE HER PRESENT OF HALF DOLLAR - IN OTHER WORDS, AN EXCHANGE OF GIFTS! WITH HIS WIFE GETTING MUCH THE BETTER BARGAIN. BUT I WOULD HAVE NONE OF HIS PRESENTS, IN FACT, ALL I BOUGHT ON ISLAND WAS A ROOT DEER + A SUNDAE. THE OUTDOOR MARKET WAS VERY CLEAN, AND THE VARIOUS TRADE STORES WERE VERY NEAT. WHEN A RAIN SQUALL BLEW UP, THE MARKET LADIES RETIRED WITH THEIR GOODS BENEATH THE PORCHES OF NEARBY HOUSES. THERE WAS A LOCAL DANCE HALL, CROWDED WITH SHIP'S CREW AND PASSENGERS DRINKING BEER, WAS ANOTHER FOCAL POINT OF ATTENTION. ONE NATIVE GIRL WAS DOING SOME BEAUTIFULLY INTRICATE POSTURING WITH HER ARMS & HANDS - OTHERS WERE JUST LITTER-BUGGING. WALKED UP A LITTLE "STREET" LEADING TO HILL IN BACK OF TOWN - MANY LARGE FAMILY HOUSES - SOME THATCHED, SOME TIN ROOFED. ONE HOUSE HAD AN OVERHEAD WATER SPOUT EMPTY- ING INTO AN OUTDOOR SHOWER - 3 SMALL BOYS UNDER THE STREAM HAVING A WONDERFUL TIME! THE PEOPLE ARE SIMPLE IN THEIR DIGNITY & MANNER, THEY ARE WELL BUILT, AND GRACEFUL IN CARRIAGE. EVERYONE WAS GREATLY IMPRESSED BY THEM. THE GIRLS EVEN PLAY BASKETBALL. U.S. NAVY MONEY HAS PROBABLY SPOILED SOME OF THEM. PRICES ON IMPORTED GOODS ARE, OF COURSE, HIGH. AS WE LINED RAILS BEFORE SAILING, THE PASSENGERS STARTED THROWING COINS FOR CHILDREN TO SCRAMBLE FOR ON THE CONCRETE DOCK. SOME ALSO DIVING FROM OUT- RIGGERS ON OTHER SIDE SHIP. MOST CANOES VERY NARROW - OPENING ABOUT A FOOT ONLY. DO NOT GRASP TOP OF PADDLE AS WE DO IN CANOEING. MANY BIRDS FOR AN HOUR AFTER WE SAILED. ESTIMATES:
Page 27
P.14 WED. FEB. 11, 1948 (Day Katherines' Father died) WE DROP THIS DAY - I. DATE LINE - WESTWARD BOUND THURS. FEB. 12, 1948 DIST. (BY OBSERVATION) 369 ON BOARD 3/5 MARINE PHOENIX LGT. DAY 21 HRS. 57 MIN. AV. SPEED 16.81 KNOTS LAT. 16.07 S LONG. 176.45 W 369 TO PAGO PAGO; 322 TO SUVA COURSE - VARIOUS UP AT ABOUT 8: A.M. - SURPRISED TO SEE AN ISLAND OFF THE STARBOARD QUARTER - 4 MILES OFF. LEARNED LATER THAT THIS IS NIUAFOU - OR "TIN CAN ISLAND" - THE NORTHERN- MOST ISLAND OF THE TONGA GROUP. THIS BIT OF LAND IS NOW UNINHABITED DUE TO FEAR OF VOLCANIC ACTION. IT IS COVERED WITH COCONUT PALMS, BUT ONE CAN SEE A SMALL CONE IN THE S.W. PART. THE 3RD. MATE SAYS THAT THE LAVA FIELD IS GRADUALLY EXPANDING. THERE IS SUPPOSED TO BE A LAKE IN THE LARGE CENTRAL CRATER. ONCE BELONGED TO GERMANY. POSTMASTER BUILT UP A LUCRATIVE STAMP COLLECTORS TRADE. SHIPS SEALED LETTERS IN CAN + TIED TO BUOY OFF SHORE; NATIVE SWAM OUT + BROUGHT LETTERS ASHORE; POST- MARKED + RETURNED SAME WAY. BUSINESS IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE ENDED WHEN THE SHARKS CAUGHT ON TO THE POSTMAN'S ROUTE! THERE WERE 200-300 (OR MORE I AM SURE) BETWEEN US AND THE SHORE LINE: SOOTY TERNS, MANY DARK COLORED PETRELS (THE TIPS OF 1'S + SOME 2'S BLACKISH - NO VISIBLE WHITE - THE REST OF PLUMAGE BROWNISH IN THE SUNLIGHT - RATHER HIGHER AT BASE OF 1'S. - WEDGE? SHAPED TAIL), A FEW GANNETS (ONE WITH BROWN HEAD + THROAT + WHITE UNDERPTS. - BROWNISH UPPERPARTS). CONTINUED SEEING TERNS + PETRELS AFTER ISLAND BELOW HORIZON. HAVE SEEN NO RED-TAILED TROPIC- BIRDS FOR 2 DAYS NOW FOR FUTURE REFERENCE: RE: THE INTERNATIONAL DATE LINE ① AT 0° (I.E. GREENWICH) AT THE INSTANT OF NOON - IT IS THE SAME DATE ALL OVER THE WORLD (MIDNIGHT AT 180°). ② HOWEVER, AS SOON AS THE SUN MOVES WEST OF LONG. 0° AT GREENWICH, ENGLAND IT IS NOW AFTER MIDNIGHT AT THE 180° MERIDIAN - IN OTHER WORDS, A NEW DAY HAS BEGUN. THIS (E.G.) IS FEB. 12; HOWEVER, IT IS STILL FEB. 11 (IN THE P.M.) AT GREENWICH. FEB. 11 COMES TO AN END AT MIDNIGHT.
Page 28
3 THEREFORE, IF ONE CROSSES THE 180TH MERIDIAN (OR THE ADJUSTED INT. DATE LINE WHICH DOES NOT ALWAYS CORRE- SPOND EXACTLY TO 180°), ONE MUST ADD ONE DAY TO HIS RECKONING (IF WESTBOUND). THE BIRDS ARE STILL FOLLOWING ME! AT TEN P.M. WHILE I WAS WRITING HERE, SOME BOYS BROUGHT ME A BEAUTI- FULLY COLORED "LAND BIRD" - I CALL IT THIS FOR LACK OF THE PROPER FAMILY EVEN - WEAK-BILLED, GREENISH WINGS, WINE-RED CROWN + UNDER TAIL COVERTS - WILL LOOK IT UP IN THE LIB- RARY AT SUVA TOMORROW. I SKINNED HIM OUT WITH A RAZOR BLADE AND AN OLD PR. OF SCISSORS. HAVE HIM IN THE LOUNGE ICE BOX NOW - WILL MAKE SMITIN UP TOMORROW AFTER WE SAIL FROM SUVA. READ "STORM" TODAY - FINISHED. BY ALL ODDS THE MOST UNUSUAL THEME FOR A NOVEL I HAVE EVER HEARD OF. I KNOW A LOT MORE ABOUT STORM METEOROLOGY THAN I DID BEFORE. COPIED WEATHER DATA + CODE CHART. LEARNED ABOUT DATE LINE FROM ANNAPOLIS TEXT IN BIRD'S OFFICE; WE ACTUALLY CROSS THE 180° AT 12:06 TOMORROW A.M. MR. SPEIGHT REPORTED A "LONG-BILLED BIRD LIKE A PETREL (UNDERPARTS LIGHTER)"! MAYBE I'LL SEE ONE TOMORROW, WHEN WE ARE AMONG THE ISLANDS OF THE FINI GROUP. THE CAPT. WAS NOT AT DINNER TONIGHT - PROBABLY RESTING SO THAT HE CAN BE ON BRIDGE EARLY IN A.M.. HAD TIDNEYS ON TOAST FOR BREAKFAST; AVOCADO SALAD, PORT & ICE CREAM FOR DINNER. DID SOME WASHING IN AFTERNOON. A QUIET DAY. GEOFF HAS RADIOED AHEAD TO FRIEND OF WILMOT'S TO ENGAGE PLANE RESERVATIONS (SYDNEY TO BRISBANE). WE HEAR THAT THE QUEENSLAND RAILWAYS ARE TIED UP WITH A STRIKE. WE WILL PROBABLY HAVE A LETTER FROM "LEN" BRASS IN SYDNEY WITH DETAILS ON HIS PLANS & OUR SCHEDULE. THERE WAS A BABY BORN ON BOARD SHIP YESTERDAY; ANOTHER WAS DUE TODAY. WE HEAR THAT DOCTOR RECEIVES A $50. BONUS FOR EACH ONE. [ WILL SEND THESE FIRST 14 PAGES OFF FROM SUVA TOMORROW IN 3 LETTERS. THEY ARE NOT TO BE SENT TO MISS NEUHAUS FOR COPYING. HAVE DECIDED TO SEND ONLY THOSE WRITTEN IN THE FIELD. ]
Page 29
P15 FRIDAY, FEB. 13, 1948 NOON - AT SUVA, FINI. ON BOARD S/S MARINE PHOENIX ON ROUTE TO AUCKLAND, N.Z. My day started at 6:30 A.M. The island was in sight when I first looked out of the porthole. The line of gentle surf was breaking in regular cadence on the fringing coral reef. The clouds were gray over the mts. to the west of Suva harbor. Suva, the town, was spread over a series of very low undulating hills to the north east of the harbor. Here was none of the breath-taking beauty of the island of Tutuila, and the harbor of Pago Pago. The pilot boat met us inside the reef - why we needed a pilot for this harbor is beyond me. But I suppose it is custom. Two tramp freighters were tied up at dock, as well as half a dozen luggerS - both sail + steam, no brass band today. But a crowd of fuzzy-headed Finians, and straight-haired Indians were on hand to look us over. The spectacles of the crowd were the Finian police - great mops of hair, blue shirts with various chevrons, white shirts with pinked bottom hem, + white gloves for directing traffic. Docked promptly at 8:00 A.M. I went ashore a few minutes later. A small U.S. naval cutter tied to dock. Our 3rd mate tells me that ship was abandoned except for one man who stayed alive for 4 months until ship found + towed to port. Lived on rain water + fish, walked to outskirts of town, Passing many lovely flowers. Hibiscus, of course, was very (Will finish tomorrow - too sleepy tonight - 11:30 P.M.) common. Some gardens were filled with temperate zone flowers, others looked completely tropical. And the Indian mynah birds were everywhere! They take the place of the starling and Eng. sparrow at home, in numbers, in noise, in curiosity + in filling city + suburban niches that native birds may have once oc- cupied. Long-legged (yellow), rounded-winged (with white patches) + with yellow bill - quite friendly, to one who has never seen them before, attractive. Another common bird in town + with distinctive coding - a mourning dove type - black patches low on neck - the patches white-spotted. The 3rd common bird - a titingbird type - white rump, carmine under tail coverts, crest, dark dorsally + ventrally, flycatcher bill, chestnut cheek patches. When I reached out. Shirts of town, started seeing very small birds flying over - thin, high notes. 3 birds in road z818 - small, reddish all over - more so
Page 30
ON HEAD, DART (BLuish) UNDER TAIL COVERTS, WHITE SPOTS SCATTERED OVER PLUMAGE, VERY HEAVY BILL (RED), SHORT WHITE LINE UNDER EYE (9- YELLOWISH UNDERPARTS, REDISH RUMP, FEW SCATTERED WHITE SPOTS. LATER - SMALL BIRD, DECURVED BILL, WHITE UNDERPARTS, RED CHIN PATCH, YELLOW LINE (RUNNING ONTO BILL?), ACTIVE, HANGING HEAD DOWN OCC.. ANOTHER - SMALL, SEEMED WHOLLY DARK EXCEPT HEAD END OF BODY. AS SHIP ENTERED HARBOR 3 SMALL SWIFTS OVER HEAD - APPEARED ALL DARK. ON LEAVING, A SMALL WHITE HERON SITTING ON SOME WRECKAGE ON CORAL HERE. MR. SPEIGHT REPORTS SMALL FLIGHT OF "DUCKS" (5) FLYING CLOSE TO WATER. AFTER WELL OUT OF HARBOR A FEW MED.- SIZED (ALL DARK?) PETRELS, ALSO 1 BROWN DOOBY FLEW BY. CAN NOT REMEMBER ANY TROPIC-BIRDS, TERNS. STRANGE NOT TO SEE ANY GULLS IN A HARBOR! ALL TOO SHORT A TIME 2 3/4 HRS. TO STUDY BIRDS. NATIVE WOMEN CARRYING FRESH CAUGHT FISH, + A TYPE OF DARK RED (STILL ALIVE) LOBSTER, ROOTS. BOYS EATING SUGAR CANE - SOME HOUSES HAD ROWS OF CANE AS HEDGE. WISH LEN BRASS WERE HERE TO IDENTIFY. TURBANED INDIANS CUTTING GRASS ON TENNIS COURTS + GARDENING ABOUT HOMES. NEW HOUSES WITH MANY CORNER WIN- DOWS - BUILT ON STILTS - CARS RUN IN ON CONCRETE STRIPS UNDER HOUSES - NO GARAGE DOORS - WINDOW BLINDS HINGED AT TOP + HELD OPEN BY STICKS - CLOTH CURTAINS SUSPENDED OVER LOWER 1/2 OF WINDOWS. MANY SMALL TAILOR SHOPS, EACH WITH SEWING MACHINE (RUN BY INDIANS). OTHER SHOPS (GROCERY) IN SUBURBS RUN BY CHINESE. FIJLIANS SUPPOSED TO BE VERY SHIFTLESS COMPARED TO INDIANS. THEIR SIMPLE WANTS PROB. REQUIRE LITTLE MONEY COMPARED TO WHITES + INDIANS. THE FLOWING CLOTHES OF INDIANS ARE VERY GRACEFUL. SAW ONE WOMAN WITH "PEARL" STUD IN NOSE - A RELIGIOUS SIGN? MANY CATTLE (WITH MYNAHS IN ATTENDANCE) + GOAT HERDS IN OUTSHIRTS. VERY FEW DOGS. LONG CANE BROOMS. ROADS CUT THRU WHAT APPEARED TO BE STRATIFIED CLAY BANKS - SMALL CRUMBLING SECTIONS. GEOFF + MR. WILMOT WENT OFF TOGETHER - BREAKFAST AT HOME OF MINISTER OF EDUCATION - GOVERNOR OF ISLAND, TOO. HIS IDEA OF A WONDERFUL TIME. HE BOUGHT WHISKEY + MAILED LETTERS. BUSINESS SECTION OF TOWN DOMINATED BY SEVERAL LARGE DEPART- MENT STORES - BURNS PHILP IS LARGEST. TRIED TO BUY GINGER BEER - HAD NONE. STORES ARE DARK - YOU STRAIN EYES TO SEE GOODS ON SHELVES. LITTLE CAGES ALL OVER STORE - FOR ACCOUNT CLERKS. SOME FINE CHINA + PIECE GOODS. CLERKS - WHITE - INDIAN - CHINESE. THE LITTLE STORES ARE FILLED WITH CURIOS - MUCH FILLIGREE SILVER. RESISTED ALL TEMPTATION AGAIN - DIDN'T BY A THING!
Page 31
P 16 FEB. 13 (CONT.) SOME NATIVES SELLING CORAL - BOTH NATURAL & DYED. THERE WAS A GREAT DEAL OF COPRA ACTIVITY ON THE PIER, LARGE BAGS BEING LOADED OR UNLOADED FROM LUGGERS. COPRA, AS I UNDER- STAND IT AT PRESENT, IS THE PARTIALLY SUN-DRIED MEAT OF COCO- NUTS. SENT TO PLANTS WHERE THE OIL IS EXPRESSED. IT HAS A SMOOTH ALL-PERVADING ODOR. I STILL HAVEN'T HAD A DRINK OF COCO- NUT MILK ON THIS TRIP. SOME OF THE PASSENGERS TAXIED OUT TO THE "WESTERN PACIFIC" HOTEL WHERE THEY HAD FINE BREAKFAST FOR 4 SHILLINGS FIJI (ABOUT 50¢). THE HOTEL IS BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON SOUTH SHORE LOOKING OUT AT CORAL REEF & RECEIVING FULL SWEEP OF THE TRADES. "TARIFF" IS $3.50 A DAY - MEALS INCLUDED! THE SHIP SAILED LATE. FIJI POST OFFICE SENT MAIL TO SHIP 17 MINUTES BEFORE DEPARTURE TIME & WE RE THE SHIP OFFICERS BURNED UP! WE RAN INTO A S.W. SWELL AND HAD MORE MOTION THAN ALL TRIP. HEAVY SQUALL CAME UP AND WE WERE PROPERLY WASHED DOWN. PASSED ANOTHER OF THE FIJI GROUP - A REAL BEAUTY - A HIGH, VEGETATION-COVERED TRUNCATED INVERTED V TABLE TOP MT. - SOME SIGNS OF HABITATION. IT WAS A BEAUTIFUL SIGHT OVER THE WHITE-CAPPED WATER. DR. LILLEY & I WAITED FOR A SUNSET TO DEVELOPE BUT THE SUN WENT DOWN IN A BANK OF DARK CLOUD. AFTER LUNCH I MADE-UP MY SMALL "FRUIT-PIGEON" - DID A FAIR JOB. SAVED SYRINX FOR DR. ZIMMER. NURSE GAVE ME SMALL BOTTLE AND ALCOHOL. WILL ROUGH OUT BODY FOR SKELETON & SEND WHOLE WORKS TO DR. MAYR VIA 3RD MATE - SAN FRANCISCO. DATE: FEB. 12, 1948 LAT. 16° 55' SOUTH TIME: 9:45 P.M. (ZONE 12 HR. 30) LONG. 179° 31' WEST LOCALITY: 21 MI. ESE OF TAVEUNI IS. (7 X 23 MI. IN EXTENT) 14 MI. WNW OF NAITAMBA IS. (2 X 2 MI. " ") (35 MI. FROM E. EDGE OF FIJI GROUP) ISLANDS: ROUGH, STEEP, HEAVILY WOODED, WILD, THINLY POPULATED BY NATIVES, VERY FEW WHITES. WEATHER (AT TIME & FOR LAST 3 HRS.): CLOUDY, MOD. E.S.E. FLY BREEZE (18 MPH), WARM, ATMOSPHERE CLEAR, GOOD VISIBILITY. BIRD WGT. 2½ OZ. ♂ MET DEATH: NOTICED FLYING IN HIGH RANGE, THEN FLEW INTO SUPERSTRUCTURE & DROPPED TO DECK DEAD. THE BIRD HAS WELL DEVELOPED PECTORAL MUSCLES - PROBABLY A EXCELLENT FLYER - PROB. NOT UNUSUAL FOR THIS SPECIES TO FLY FROM ISLAND TO ISLAND. BUT ONE CAN NEVER TELL.
Page 33
P17 SAT. FEB. 14, 1948. Day 24 Hr. 00 On Board 3/5 Marine Phoenix Av. Sp. 16.12 Knots Lat. 24 - 31 S Dist. 387 Long. 176 - 58 E 394 From Suva ; 746 to Auckland. Course - Various AT SEA AGAIN. A FRESH BREEZE AND A ROUGH SEA, IT IS GOOD TO FEEL A LITTLE MOTION AGAIN. QUIET TONIGHT. ON DECK AT 8: A.M. BIRD LIFE VERY QUIET TODAY. A TOTAL OF ONLY 6 BIRDS : 1 TROPIC BIRD, 4 PETRELS, 1 ? (BY LILLEY). THE T.B. WAS WELL ASTERN - DID :: R.B.T.B. NOT SEE TAIL WELL - NO IMPRESSION OF BLACK ON WINGS. SAW ONE PETREL FAIRLY WELL - BROWN ABOVE, MEDIUM SIZE, WHITE UNDERPARTS, WHITE EX- TENDED FAR OUT ON UNDER-WING SURFACES. ANOTHER PETREL "DARIT", AS WERE 2 SEEN BY SPEIGHT (ONE HAD SOME WHITE ON UNDERPARTS). ONE BY LILLEY - BROWN HEAD, DARK ABOVE, SOME WH. ON UNDERPTS. TODAY I MEASURED THE T.B. FEATHERS THAT MRS. SPEIGHT BOUGHT IN PAGO PAGO (17 - FROM RED-TAILED T.B.). 13 WERE IN GOOD CONDITION (19.50"- 18.75 - 18.15 - 18.15 - 18.00 - 17.60 - 17.50 - 17.15 - 17.10 - 15.95 - 15.70 15.10 - 15.05 = AVER. = 17.22"); 4 HAD ABRADED (PROXIMAL 4/ OR DISTAL) SHAFTS (14.65 - 14.25 - 14.05 - 13.60 = AVER. ~ 14.14). COMBINED TOTAL = AVER. 16.50" PLAYED DECK QUOITS WITH MR. SPEIGHT & DR. LILLEY - MY HORSE- SHOE PITCHING STANDS ME IN GOOD STEAD AND SO FAR I HAVE COME OUT AHEAD WITHOUT MUCH TROUBLE. IT IS GOOD FUN ON A ROLLING SHIP. HAVE NOT PLAYED SHUFFLEBOARD YET. WE HAD OUR BEST COOKED DINNER ON THE TRIP TONIGHT, A DELICIOUS FILET MIGNON WITH GOOD FRENCH FRIES AND GREEN PEAS, CHILLED LIQUID FRUIT BOWL & ICE CREAM. MR. WILMOT WAS AT DINNER, AND WE HAD AN UPROARIOUS TIME TIDDING HIM. TOOK OFF WEATHER + POSITION DATA IN P.M. ON BRIDGE. MR. SPEIGHT KNOWS CURATOR OF AUCKLAND MUSEUM. WE WILL HAVE 8 HRS. ASHORE & GEOFF & I THOUGHT WE WOULD CALL ON HIM, WENT TO CAPTAIN'S ROOMS AFTER DINNER TO SHOW BIRD TO HIM. HAD NEVER SEEN ONE LIKE IT BEFORE. GAVE ME A CIGAR BOX TO SHIP HIM HOME IN - OFFERED ME D.D.T. TO PUT IN BOX. GAVE ME AN EXTREMELY INTERESTING STAMP COVER - ONE OF FINAL LETTERS FROM TIN CAN ISLAND (NIVAFOU), WHICH BROKE OUT IN A RASH OF VOLCANIC ACTIVITY IN 1946. HAS "ALOHA !!! W" QUENSELL" WRITTEN ON BACK OF ENVELOPE. CAPT. USED TO DROP OFF & PICK UP MAIL THERE QUITE REGULARLY. TALKED FROM 8:30 - 10:30. SLEEPY NOW - MORE ABOUT DINNER TOMORROW.
Page 35
The following pseudo radiograms were delivered to Wilmot on his return to the table after and absence of two meals during which he had a temperature of 103. Wilmot, Marine Phoenix Sydney Following publications available on demand "Radmant Motherhood, Care of the New-born child, Forever Amber, As you like it and The Taming of the Shrew." A. B. Lilley, M.D. Wilmot, Marine Phoenix Louisville Ky. Production interesting but unnecessary stop Am sending copy of my book stop Suggest perusal before repeating experiment stop Marie Stopes Wilmot, Marine Phoenix London Congratulations Charles stop Have suggested your offspring as my succes- sor stop Please advise sex stop There will always be an England Clement ATTLEE Wilmot, Marine Phoenix Canterbury The mills of the gods grind slowly but they grind exceeding small stop Take heed to thyself for the devil is at hand stop Archbishop Wilmot, Marine Phoenix Suva, Fiji Am shocked and surprised stop Have advised council that I am in no way responsible Brian Freeston, Gov. of Fiji Wilmot, Marine Phoenix Sydney Alarming information received per Capt Johansen stop Investigation will be made to determine paternity stop Suggest sedentary job and marriage at sea British Council of Education Wilmot, Marine Phoenix New York City Congratulations Wilmot stop Any more buns cooking in oven stop Soc. for Propagation, Bundles for Britain Per Walter Winchell These messages were delivered at intervals during dinner last night and afterwards, quite unexpectedly, a strange child approached Charles with joyful cries of "Daddy?". Wilmot retired to bed again immediately after dinner. Has fully recovered this morning.
Page 37
P 18 SUNDAY, FEB. 15, 1948 DIST. 381 DAY 24:00 (TEEN NOON REPORT) SPEED 15.86 775 FROM SUVA; 365 TO AUCKLAND ON BOARD 4/8 MARINE PHOENIX LAT. 30-47 S LONG. 175-52 E COURSE 188-53 ANOTHER QUIET DAY AT SEA. FRESH BREEZE, ROUGH OCEAN. HEAD WINDS ARE SLOWING US DOWN - WE WILL NOT ARRIVE IN AUCKLAND ON TIME. WILL CUT OUR SHORE VISIT IN HALF. CHILDREN NOT ALLOWED ON SHORE DUE TO POLIO EPIDEMIC. SAW ONLY 1 FLYING FISH TODAY. NO ALBATROSSES AS YET. WE ARE NOT TOO FAR FROM KERMADEK IS. THERE HAS BEEN A FAIRLY STEADY FLIGHT OF PETRELS PASSING THE SHIP ALL DAY. TOOK WEATHER DATA OFF + THEN WATCHED FROM BRIDGE FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE PETRELS SEEM TO BE OF 2 (POSSIBLY 3) SPECIES) TODAY: (A) MEDIUM-SIZED ONE (16-20") - DARK ABOVE & BELOW, SOME WITH WHITISH AREA AT BASE OF BILL + SOME WITH SMALL WHITE SLASH ON UNDER SIDE OF WINGS NEAR TIP - LIGHTER BROWN AREA NEAR BASE OF 10'S; THE SECOND, DARK ABOVE, WHITE BELOW, A SMALL TO MEDIUM-SIZED PETREL (10-14"), RATHER BOB-TAILED APPEARING, POSSIBLY DUE TO WH. UNDER TAIL COVERTS, STIFF WINGS - NO FLAPPING, WHITE EXTENDS WELL OUT TOWARDS TIP OF WING (IN 10-20° DISTAL PART OF COVERTS - VENTRAL); THE POSSIBLE 3RD- SAME SIZE BUT DARKER BELOW (I CANNOT SAY SPECIFICALLY WHICH PARTS SO AFFECTED). STIFF BREEZE & THEIR ERRATIC MOVE- MENTS MADE OBSERVATION DIFFICULT. ACTIONS SEEMED ALIVE. 6: -7: A.M. - WILMOT - "5 SMALL BIRDS" - PROB. PETRELS 9: -9:15 A.M. - V.D. - 1 A 2 B 10: - 11: A.M. - V.D. - 4 A 2 B 2 C (1 A HAD BILL WHICH SEEMED REDISH - ILLUSION?) 11: - 12: M - V.D. - 6 A (1 WITH WH. MARKINGS, BASE OF BILL), 1 C 12: - 1: P.M. - V.D. - 2 A, 2 B 2:45 - 3:45 P.M. - V.D. - 5 A, 4 B, 3 C MR. SPEIGHT & I ARE TRYING TO BEAT THE OTHER TO SEEING FIRST WANDERING ALBATROSS. NO SIGN OF ANYTHING BUT PETRELS TODAY. WISH I COULD WATCH FROM BRIDGE ALL DAY AS I DID TODAY FOR ONE HOUR IN P.M. CAN PICK OUT EASILY FROM HEIGHT + YOU ARE PROTECTED FROM WIND GUSTS. H. GOEBEL RECOMMENDED INTERESTING BOOK (2 VOLS.): SAIL- ING DIRECTIONS FOR PACIFIC ISLANDS (4TH. ED., 1938) - HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE #165, U.S. GOV. PRINTING OFFICE. HAS ALL ISLAND INFO.
Page 38
HAD A HAIRCUT AND TOOK A NAP THIS AFTERNOON, AT 6: WE HAD A FAREWELL PARTY OF OUR OWN: GEOFF, THE SPEIGHTS, DR. LILLEY, JOHN GAFFNEY, CHARLES WILMOT, MISS HACKETT, MISS ROBERTSON OF MYSELF. THE DR. & I STAYED ON COCA-COLA WHILE THE OTHERS WORKED AT EMPTYING A WHISKEY BOTTLE, WHICH I PRESENTED TO THE CAPTAIN FOR ONE OF HIS IS BOTTLE MESSAGES. HE WANTS ME TO KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR BOTTLES UP ON THE BEACHES OF THE CAPE YORK PENINSULA. MANY FIND THEIR WAY UP THERE THRU THE TORRES STRAIT. HAVE JUST SHOWN MY FRUIT PIGEON TO A MRS. EDWARD F. WHITE, AN ENGLISHWOMEN, WHOSE HUSBAND IS A GEOLOGIST. THEIR ADDRESS IS: 148 FOX VALLEY ROAD, WAHROONGA, N.S.W. (15 MILES FROM SYDNEY). BOTH INTERESTED IN FLOWERS & BIRDS. ONE OF FEW ON BOARD WHO IS ENJOYING TRIP. WANT ME TO STAY IN THEIR HOME IF I GET BACK TO SYDNEY. MOON WAS OUT TONIGHT, AND, EVEN THE CRESCENT, MADE LOVELY TRACK ON WATER. PROBABLY SHINING ON SNOW BACK HOME. WILL SEND OFF AIR MAIL LETTERS AND POST CARDS FROM HUCKLAND TOMORROW. MUST VISIT LIBRARY & MUSEUM (DR. ARCHY IS CURATOR) WILMOT COMPOSED SONG FOR US TO SING AT PARTY TONIGHT. THE CHORUS ENDED UP WITH "20 DOLLARS A DAY". I BELIEVE GEOFF WILL COPY OFF — IT IS QUITE CLEVER. HERMAN TOLD ABOUT BIRD THAT FLEW ABOARD A COASTAL STEAMER THAT HAD LARGE ECCENTRIC WALKING BEAM ENGINE — SLIPPED DOWN INTO WAYS & I COULD NOT GET OUT. EVERY TIME ARM WENT THRU WAYS THE BIRD HAD TO DUCK TO AVOID BEING HIT. WHEN ENGINE WAS TURNED OFF IN PORT & BIRD TAKEN OUT OF WAYS, IT STILL CONTINUED TO BOB UP & DOWN! WELL IT’S A GOOD STORY. AND SO TO BED. SHIP STEADY TONIGHT.
Page 39
Do Not Send To Museum. Monday - Feb. 16, 1948. In Auckland Harbor at Noon. On Board S/S MARINE PHOENIX ARRIVED 10:35 A.M. - SAILED 5:15 P.M. FOR SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA. ON DECK AT 6:15 A.M. - THE ISLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND ON THE HORIZON. WHAT A WONDERFUL LAND THE MAORIS DISCOVERED FOR SETTLEMENT! THE SUN WAS JUST OVER THE HORIZON CATCHING SOME OF THE HILLS IN ITS FIRST LIGHT. THE FORESTS HAVE SHRUNK IN THE LAST 100 YEARS TO REMNANTS OF THEIR FORMER EXTENT. SOME OF THE NATIVE BIRDS HAVE GONE WITH THE FOREST. THE HILLS SEEMED BARE (WITH ONLY SCATTERED TREES IN THE ROUGHER SPOTS). GRAZING IS THE CURSE OF THE COUNTRY AS FAR AS NATURAL HISTORY IS CONCERNED. WE PASSED ONE LOVELY ISLAND - LITTLE IS. WHICH WAS ONE OF THE FIRST BIRD SANCTUARIES TO BE EST- ABLISHED IN THE WORLD. QUITE A FEW OF THE ISLANDS SEEMED TO HAVE GOOD BIRD-ROCK CLIFFS. FROM 6:15 UNTIL ABOUT 8:A.M. WE SAW : AUSTRALIAN GANNET - (35) P. CARNEIPES } PETREL - MED. SIZE - DARK ABOVE + WHITE BELOW - A P. GRISIUS } YELLOWISH OR PINK BILL (some) 80 P. GAVIA ? } PETREL - {MED. SIZE - WHITE UNDERPTS 150 P. BULLEAI } PETREL - MED. SIZE - ENTIRELY WH. UNDERPARTS - FLAPS REGULARLY 55 BLACK-BACKED GULL - (14) FOLLOWING SHIP 75-100 MIXED FLOCK - OFF TWIN-PEAKED IS. NEAR COAST - STARBOARD Today was another day of "FRUSTRATION" - So much to see + do + so VERY LITTLE TIME. WE ARRIVED IN HARBOUR AT 10:35. DOCKED 11:15. THE HARBOUR IS A PARTICULARLY FINE ONE - DEEP, GREEN WATER; RED ROOFS ON MANY OF THE HOUSES THAT SURMOUNT THE LITTLE HILLS THAT RING THE HARBOUR. A FEW ERODED WATER-MEETING CLIFFS SHOWED VARIOUS SEDIMENTARY STRATA, SMALL FERRIES CONNECT VARIOUS PARTS OF THE TOWN. A GOOD DOCK AREA - MANY TRAMPS IN LOADING FROZEN LAMBS, MUTTON + BEEF; ALSO A FEW PASSENGER SHIPS, BUT NONE SEEMED ACTIVE. ONE TRAMP - THE "CAPE YORK" - OUT OF GLASGOW. ASHORE ABOUT NOON + SHORT WAIT FOR MR. WILMOT'S BAGS, DECIDED NOT TO WAIT + WE TOOK TAXI FOR NORTHERN CLUB - A QUIET CLUB FOR GENTLEMEN - CHARLES, A CORRES. MEMBER. TO GRAND HOTEL, NEXT DOOR FOR LUNCH. DOORS NOT OPEN SO THEY HAD BEER + I HAD A DRINK OF GINGER BEER - AT LONG LAST! SCOTCH BROTH, MIXED GRILL (DOOR SAUSAGE), YORKSHIRE CAKE + ENG. ICE-CREAM - NOT A VERY GOOD MEAL, BUT STILL ONE OF BEST AVAILABLE IN N.Z. ACC. TO WILMOT, THEN TO P.O. TO MAIL ALL OUR AIRMAILS. I WENT TO WHITCOMB & TOOMBS - BOOKSELLERS - TO BUY A N.Z.
Page 40
17/6 BIRD BOOK. ONE BY A MR. TURBOTT AVAILABLE - A RATHER RAMBLING, IN- COMPLETE, POORLY PLANNED BOOK; HOWEVER, GIVES SOME IDEAS TO A STRANGER. TOOK TAXI TO MUSEUM ON HILL ABOVE AUCKLAND. AN IMPOSING GRECIAN TYPE BUILDING SET IN A LARGE PARK - OVERLOOKS HARBOUR - A BEAUTIFUL SITE. MR. ARCHY WAS NOT THERE, BUT MR. TURBOTT, THE ENT- OMOLOGIST + ORNITHOLOGIST, CAME IN + TOOK ME FOR A QUICK TOUR OF THE MUSEUM. THE FINEST COLLECTION OF MAIORI CULTURAL EFFECTS IN EXISTENCE IS HOUSED HERE. AMPLE ROOM + SPACIOUS HALLS. NO TIME TO SEE ANYTHING BUT A FEW OF THE BIRD EXHIBITS. SOME OF EXTINCT BIRDS. MOA RECONSTRUCTION. STORUTHIFORM SKELETONS. (NOW FINDING COMPLETE MOA SKELETONS IN CERTAIN PLACES). KIWI IS HOLDING OWN IN N.Z. - MANY KILLED BY CARS ON ROADS. TIR IS DOING WELL - ONLY AN OCCASIONAL ONE ATTACKS SHEEP. N.Z. QUAIL IS GONE. STITCH BIRD STILL ON LITTLE BARRIER. TURBOTT'S OFFICE LITTERED WITH SPECIMENS - FELT JUST LIKE HOME. TOLD ME DR. MURPHY EXPECTED BACK IN AUCKLAND NEXT WEEK FROM SOUTH ISLAND. THEY WILL GO TO LITTLE BARRIER FOR A WEEK, THEN TO MAURI FORESTS IN NORTH ISLAND. NO HABITAT GROUPS. TAXIDERMY ONLY FAIR. T. INSCRIBED COPY OF HIS BOOK. DID NOT HAVE CHANCE TO GO TO TOP OF MT. EDEN - HIGHEST HILL IN TOWN TO GET BEST HARBOUR VIEW. CRICKET MATCH ON IN PARK. THUMBED A RIDE TO TOWN - DRIVER WAS THE PARK SUPERINTENDENT. SAID AN AMERICAN CAMP TOOK UP WHOLE FRONT OF GROUNDS NEAR MUSEUM. TRAM TO WATERFRONT. BOUGHT STAMP PACKET FOR DORY. SHIP SAILING QUITE AN EVENT. MANY N.Z. PASSENGERS FOR AUSTRALIA. MUCH COLORED TAPE THROWN. SEAPLANE BASE NEAR POCKS (B.O.A.) - 4 MOTOR JOBS. SAILED OUT OF HARBOUR WITH BLACK-BACKS FOLLOWING. A BEAUTIFUL SUNSET OVER NORTH ISLAND. MANGITOTO ISLAND IS ROOSTING GROUND FOR 100'S OF GULLS. IS TO BE A SANCTUARY - FEW' RESIDENTS GIVEN 7 YEARS TO MOVE OUT. REPEATED PART OF OUR FORMER COURSE BOUND FOR THE NORTH CAPE. THE SOUND OF GULL CRIES (BLACK-BACK RATHER LIKE HEARING) IS MUSIC IN MY EARS. THE WHOLE VAST WATER APPROACH TO AUCKLAND WAS ALIVE WITH PETRELS, SHEARWATERS + GANNETS. MR. SPEIGHT AND I WATCHED UNTIL DINNER. NOT SURE THAT WE SAW ANY DIVING PETRELS. 1 WILSON'S, 15 P. GAVIA, 200-300 P. BULLERI, 50 P. CARNIPIES, 125 P. GRISEUS - NO ALBATROSSES, 25 GANNET. BEAUTIFUL CRESCENT MOON. TO BED EARLY. INTERVIEWED BY REPORTERS + PHOTOGRAPHED ON SHIP IN A.M. ENG. SPARROWS ALL OVER PART. PIGEONS IN TOWN. N.Z. CURRENCY VERY ZOOLOGICAL. WILL SAVE SOME FOR DORY: BOUGHT PACKET OF N.Z. STAMPS (100 FOR 7/6)
Page 41
Tuesday - Feb. 17, 1948 Distance - 297 miles Day 18 Hrs. 50 Speed 15.87 knots 297 from Auckland; 980 to Sydney. On Board 3/s Marine Phoenix Lat. 34-24 S Long. 170-58 E Course - Various (267° at 3:pm) Up at 5: a.m. - Air mild, calm sea, no breeze. Sun glow lighting up the high clouds. The Black Headland of "North Cape" was outlined against the southern sky on our port quarter. Petrels were everywhere around the ship - also Gulls, Both Black-backed & Red-billed, White-fronted terns, Austr. Gannets, and last of all I finally saw my first Wandering Alba- tross! Before the morning was over I had seen at least 8, in varying states of plumage, floating on the water, paddling the water rapidly with their feet trying to take-off, sailing in the light airs, but this was difficult in the high airs, and they had to flap a great deal. On the water they ride high and look like one of our Black-backed Gulls. The S.W. swells were surfing on the headlands around Cape Maria Van Diemen. The sun came up quickly & almost directly in our wake. Gannets were diving & Petrels swarming on the water over a large school of fish. Soon the Three Kings Group rose up out of the morning mist and sea to the N.W. & as we came closer the saw-tooth row of rocks called Princes Islands stood out jagged & clear. Turdott in his book "N.Z. Bird Life" has a short account of a visit to these islands. Someday, as Mr. Murphy is now doing, I should like to revisit this land of Sea-Bird Islands and spend weeks on the islands, not just minutes looking at the islands. The numbers of birds of the various species are extremely hard to judge in an area such as this. Visits to the breeding grounds would be essential & several census transects would have to be made. However, for this particular morning run (with a counting range of roughly half a mile on each side of the ship) my estimates run: S. Black-backed Gull (L. dominicanus) (mostly ship-followers) 12 Silver Gull (L. N. scopulinus) (some ship-followers, many from 3 Kings) 50 Austr. Gannet (Moris Serrator) 35 Wandering Albatross (Diomedea exulans) 8 plus 3 following ship at 3:30 p.m. White-fronted Tern (S. s. striata) 4
Page 42
GREY-BACKED SHEARWATER (Puffinus bulleri) 250 FLUTTERING SHEARWATER (Puffinus gavia) 30 PALE-FOOTED SHEARWATER (Puffinus carneipes) 40 3? SOOTY SHEARWATER (Puffinus griseus) 10 Wilson's Storm-Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) 3 THE WATER WAS SO SMOOTH & MANY OF THE SHEARWATERS WERE FLYING SO NEAR THE SHIP THAT ONE COULD SEE THEIR REFLECTIONS IN THE GLASSY SURFACE. THE TIPS OF THEIR WINGS OCCASIONALLY SHEARED THE WATER EVER SO SLIGHTLY - YOU COULD ONLY NOTICE THIS IN VERY CALM WEATHER. WHAT A PERFECT LANDING ONE COULD MAKE ON THE 15- HANDS TODAY. THE GULLS LEFT US SOME TIME BETWEEN 10: + 12: M. THERE WAS SO LITTLE BREEZE THAT THE ALBATROSSES GAVE UP ALSO. WE DID NOT PICK UP ANY MORE UNTIL THE MIDDLE OF THE AFTERNOON - AT LEAST BY 3:30 P.M. (SAW FROM BRIDGE) - POSSIBLY EARLIER. I TOOK A NAP FROM 10: UNTIL NOON. WHEN I CAME ABOVE DECK THERE WAS NOTHING DOING EXCEPT R. WILSON'S STORM-PETREL AND A FEW (COUNTING ALL P.M.) SHEARWATERS - 75 (1 PER 5 MIN.) - ALL OF ABOVE SPECIES (PROB. MOSTLY P. BULLERI) - ALL WELL OFF SHIP. WENT TO BRIDGE AFTER LUNCH FOR ABOUT AN HOUR - TOOT OFF WEATHER & READ A COUPLE OF SHORT STORIES OF MAUGHAM THAT THE 3RD RECOMMENDED. M. HAD EVIDENTLY BEEN AROUND THE CAPE YORK, THURSDAY IS. SECTION A BIT. THEN WENT DOWN TO STERN FAN TAIL TO WATCH THE ALBATROSSES. THE CHIEF ELECTRICIAN, R. COURTENAY, AN IRISHMAN TRANSPLANTED TO N.Z. (+ AN ARDENT N.Z.ER) WAS MUCH INTERESTED IN THE ALBATROSSES & TOLD ME ABOUT BIRDS SEEN ON BOARD SHIP & FROM SHIP IN VARIOUS PARTS OF THE WORLD; WELL READ & WITH AN INTEREST THAT SHOULD BE ENCOURAGED. LOANED HIM "N.Z. BIRDS" TO READ. TOLD HIM ABOUT ALEXANDER "B. OF OCEAN. CAPT. VISITED BRIDGE WHILE I WAS THERE. SAID HE HAD NEWS THAT THE SHARKS WERE BAD ON SYDNEY BEACHES THIS SEASON. SAYS GALES ON TASMAN SEA BLOW UP SUDDENLY & SUBSIDE AS QUICKLY - A DEEP SEA. BUT NOT DESERVE NAME "THE TERRIBLE TASMAN". WHEN I CAME ON DECK THIS A.M. I COULD SMELL THE LAND VERY STRONGLY - A FRESH TREE-FLOWER ODOR. WE WERE NOT MORE THAN 4 MILES OFF. EARLY IN A.M. (DARK) WE PASSED KAWAU ISLAND - TURBOTT TOLD ME THAT THIS IS PLACE WHERE OWNER HAD INTRODUCED: TRICHOSURUS VULPECULA (OPPOSUM); PETROGALE PENNICILLATA; THYLOGALE EUGENII, WALLARIA BICOLOR; WALLARIA DORSALIS. MOON IS SHINING TONIGHT. NORTHERLY BREEZE HAS SPRUNG UP & IS FUNNELING INTO OUR CABIN. NORFOLM IS. IS TO NORTH OF US. No motion - swell is gone.
Page 43
WED. - FEB. 18, 1948 Aist. 379 Day 24 Hrs. 30 Speed 15.45 KN. 676 From Auckland ; 601 To Sydney ON BOARD S/S MARINE PHOENIX LAT. 34-26 S LONG. 163-19 E COURSE - VAR. BACK TO NORMAL TODAY. NO LAND IN SIGHT - AT NOON WE WERE 1/2 WAY ACROSS THE TASMAN SEA. THE BLOW OF LAST NIGHT + EARLY A.M. WAS LEFT BEHIND BY NOON + WE HAVE ANOTHER CALM UNRUFFLED SEA. I SAW MY FIRST WHALES ON THIS VOYAGE THIS AFTERNOON ABOUT 4:~5: THEY WERE HEADED EAST - AT LEAST 6 IN GROUP - THE SPOUT WAS LOW + ROUNDED. THEY DID NOT APPEAR TO BE LARGE WHALES - NO VERY OBVIOUS HUMP OR FINS. PASSED ABOUT 1/2 MILE OFF OUR PORT QUARTER. LATER, ABOUT 5:30, WE CAME UP WITH A SCHOOL OF ABOUT 80 "PORPOISES" - AS WE NEARED THEM THEY STARTED TO LEAP CLEAN OUT OF WATER, AND HEADED OFF TO THE SOUTH. A DARK STREAM ALONG THE SIDE + DARK MARKINGS ABOUT THE HEAD. SEA CALM AT TIME SO LEAPS QUITE IMPRESSIVE - SMALL TAIL, SMALL DORSAL FIN. MRS. SPEIGHT ALSO REPORTED SEEING AN ANIMAL WHICH WE DECIDED WAS A SUN FISH HOLLING ON ITS SIDE. A FLOCK OF 6 TROPIC-BIRDS SHOWED UP ABOUT 3:30 P.M. - ALL RED-TAILED. STAYED WITH SHIP FOR ABOUT AN HOUR. NO ALBATROSSES SHOWED UP ALL DAY TODAY. HOWEVER, THE SOOTY + PALE-FOOTED SHEARWATERS WERE WITH US ALL DAY LONG. MANY OF THEM WERE RESTING ON THE WATER + MOVED ONLY WHEN SHIP CLOSED IN. NUMBERS RAN ABOUT 100 SOOTY, 25 PALE-FOOTED. ANOTHER SMALL TO MEDIUM PETREL, DARK ABOVE WITH DEEP DIP OF BLACK ON SIDES OF HEAD. WHITE OF UNDERPARTS SEEMED TO COME WELL UP IN FRONT OF EYE. WHITE AREA RAN WELL OUT UNDER WINGS - VENTRAL LEADING EDGE DARK. FLAPPED QUICKLY + COASTED ONLY A LITTLE. MR. SPEIGHT SAID HE SAW A STORM-PETREL (WHITE RUMP) - SEEMED A LITTLE LARGE FOR WILSON'S [illegible]. ONE FLOCK OF 50 MIXED PETRELS OVER SCHOOL OF FISH (H. GOEBEL - REPORTED). GEOFF + I TALKED OVER OUR SYDNEY PLANS - IT WILL BE A RUSH TO FINISH EVERY THING ON FRIDAY. P.R. STRINE STILL ON - MAY HAVE TO FLY TO BRISBANE YET. TOOK MY FRUIT PIGEON BODY, DEPULSED, AND HUNG UP TO DRY. SEWED WINGS OF F. PIG. TOGETHER TODAY. WILL WRAP TO- MORROW + H.G. CAN MAIL BY PARCEL POST WHEN HE ARRIVES BACK IN SAN FRANCISCO. SEALED UP SECOND ROLL OF 35MM. FILM. H.G. WILL MAIL IN THE STATES, TOO. SLEEPY - TURNING IN NOW.
Page 45
Thurs day - Feb. 19, 1948 Dist. 377 Day 24 Hr.30 Speed 15.40 Kn. 1053 From Auckland; 224 To Sydney. Course 272.35 ON BOARD 5/5 MARINE PHOENIX Lat. 34°.09 S Long. 165.43 E N.W. BREEZE KICKING UP CHOPPY SEA TODAY - OVERCAST. NO ALBATROSSES FOLLOWING SHIP AT 9; A.M. MEDIUM SIZED ALL DARK SHEARWATERS GOING BY OCCASIONALLY. THE LAND OF NATURALISTS' DREAMS IS ALMOST IN SIGHT. A GLORIOUS MOONLIGHT SHINING ON THE OCEAN. THE SHIP IS LOAFING ALONG - WE ARE WELL AHEAD OF SCHEDULE. WILL MAINTAIN A POSITION OFF SYDNEY HEAD - PICK UP PILOT AT 5; - TO QUARANTINE AT 6;. THE WARM TROPICAL BREEZE BLEW ITSELF OUT SOON AFTER NOON, SUN CAME OUT, SEA MODERATED + NOW THE SHIP IS AS STEADY AS A ROCK. IT HAS BEEN A VERY QUIET TRIP. THE SHIP IS FILLED WITH A SUB- DUE D AIR OF EXCITEMENT TONIGHT: BRIDES & GROOMS TO BE ARE ON BOARD; EX-G.I.'S GOING TO NEW HOMES; FAMILIES EMIGRA- TING TO NEW LAND; AUST. RETURNING AFTER MONTHS OR YEARS ABROAD ON BUSINESS + PLEASURE; TOURISTS ON A VISIT; A VAUDE- VILLE TROUPE BOUND FOR THE TIVOLI; AN EXPEDITION FOR THE PE- NINSULA; AND MISSIONARIES FOR FAR WIDE - WHAT A MISCELLANY THERE IS ON BOARD - WHAT DIFFERENT HOPES & OBJECTIVES! PACKED UP MY FRUIT PIGEON TODAY - SKIN, SYRINX + SKELETON IN A CIGAR BOX. H. GOEBEL WILL TAKE ON RETURN TRIP + MAIL IN SAN FRANCISCO (ALSO 2 ROLLS FILM). H. HAS BEEN A GRAND FRIEND TO ME, AND THE TRIP HAS BEEN FAR MORE INTERESTING BECAUSE OF HIM + THE CAPTAIN - WHO HAS GIVEN ME THE RUN OF THE SHIP. MR. SPEIGHT REPORTS SEEING 2 OR 3 WILSON'S PETRELS TODAY. 2 RED-TAILED TROPIC BIRDS SHOWED UP AT 3:30 P.M. - I BELIEVE THEY WERE RESTING ON THE WATER. MAIS. ALSO SAW 2 WHALES AT MID-AFTERNOON. NO ALBATROSSES ALL DAY. [TIME OUT - I HAVE JUST WRITTEN CAPT. JOHANSON A THANK YOU LETTER. I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF ITS BEING DONE BEFORE BUT IF THERE WAS EVER A CAPT. THAT DESERVED ONE, THEN OUR CAPT. IS IT. THIS IS ONLY A "TIN CAN" - A THIRD-RATE TROOP SHIP, BUT IT IS A WELL RUN "HAPPY" SHIP (IN SPITE OF ALL THE GROANSING BY THE PASSENGERS).] WASHED A FEW CLOTHES OUT TODAY; PACKED, LOADED MY CAMERA, GOT OUT MY VARIOUS LANDING PAPERS. WE WERE WARNED TODAY THAT THE CUSTOMS SHED WILL BE VERY INADEQUATE.
Page 47
FRIDAY - FEB. 20, 1948. HOTEL CARLTON - SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA! WHAT A CHANGE FROM OUR USUAL QUARTERS! A COMFORTABLE ROOM ON THE 7TH FLOOR - TWIN BEDS - BATH AT END OF HALL - NO CLOSET BUT A LARGE WOODEN LOCKER - AND NOW I HAVE RIGGED UP A CLOTHESLINE FOR MY WASH - BASIN IN THE ROOM. UP AT 6:30 A.M., DRESSED LEISURELY, PASSED A VERY CASUAL MEDICAL INSPECTION, WAITED IN LINE FOR AN HOUR TO HAVE IM- MIGRATION INSPECTION (VERY QUICK), THEN POLICE REGISTRATION WHICH I MUST COMPLETE WHEN I ARRIVE IN BRISBANE. KEPT OUR LUGGAGE IN STATE ROOM. WHEN ALLOWED, ASHORE I CARRIED OFF TO CUSTOMS LETTER. GEOFF GOT HOLD OF HEAD CUSTOMS MAN + HIS MEN EXPEDITED OUR INSPECTION. I GOT A BAGGAGE MAN TO HELP US TO CAR-RUN IN MIDDLE OF PIER. GEOFF FOUND A TAYT + WE WERE OFF TO THE CARLTON. MOST OF PEOPLE WERE STILL ON PIER WHEN WE LEFT. ARRIVED CARLTON 11 A.M. UNPACKED. TO LUNCH AT 1: P.M. HIGH-CEILINGED OLD-FASHIONED DINING ROOM. FOOD VERY REASONABLE. WENT TO AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM. MET MR. WALCOMB WHO IN TURN INTRODUCED US TO MR. TROUTON, CURATOR OF MAMMALS. TO BRITISH COUNCIL. MET JOHN ("JACK") THOMAS - HEAD OF SYDNEY OFFICE (RESPONSIBLE TO CHARLES WILMOT). WENT TO N.S.W. FREE PUBLIC LIBRARY - MR. METCALF IN ENGLAND. WENT TO SYDNEY MUNICIPAL LIBRARY - MR. BELL RECOVERING AT HOME FROM 6 MO. ILLNESS. MR. FLANNERY IN CHARGE. WENT TO ANGUS & ROBERTSON - BOOKSELLERS. BOUGHT COPY OF TROUTON - "FURRED ANIMALS OF AUSTRALIA" - 3RD. EDITION. HOME TO SHOWER. JACK THOMAS TO HOTEL FOR COCKTAILS. THEN HE DROVE US HOME TO SUPPER. WIFE (ANNE) CANADIAN. WE HAD A REAL HOME EVENING. I EVEN WASHED THE DISHES! HOME BY FERRY - OUR FIRST RIDE. THEY ARE SMALL, FAST AND HAVE FUNNY ABDO NAMES. ARRANGED FOR DINNER + BALLET SAT. NIGHT.
Page 49
SAT. FEB. 21, 1948. HOTEL CARLETON, SYDNEY, AUSTRA. AWAKE AT 6:30 A.M. ROOM SERVICE OPENED DOOR AT 6:45 A.M. - INSISTED THAT ROOM 701 HAD ORDERED BREAKFAST AT 7: A.M. - WE HAD NOT! BACK TO SLEEP UNTIL 8: A.M. - TRAMS NOISY. BREAKFAST AT HOTEL (GOES WITH ROOM): FRUIT JUICE - SLICE OF PINEAPPLE (SELL FOR 1-6 ON STREETS) - TOMATO OMELETTE + BACON (PRACTICALLY UNCOOKED) - MILK (GOOD BUT NOT VERY COLD) - TOAST (VERY HARD). THEY NEVER PUT A GLASS OF WATER ON THE TABLE. GEOFF'S COFFEE CAME IN POT WITH MILK ALREADY MIX- ED IN - WE CALL IT "WHITE COFFEE" (TERRIBLE). GEOFF REALLY APPRECIATES A GOOD CUP OF COFFEE. TO RATION BOARD FOR FOOD + CLOTHING COUPONS - NOT OPEN - HAVE PROMISED OURS TO THE SPEIGHTS. TO INSURANCE OFFICE - G'S CONTACT (POSSIBLY TO COVER TRIP HOME). LLOYDS HAVE PEOPLE IN CAIRNS IF WE SHOULD EVER NEED HELP. TO PORT LINE TO PRESENT LETTER OF MINE (FROM MUCH). A MR. ARCHER TOOK ALL DETAILS - WILL DO ALL HE CAN FOR US NEXT FALL. SUGGESTED WE RETURN HOME BY WAY OF EUROPE. NOT VERY MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE. IDEA APPEALS TO US! GEOFF TO HOTEL. I WENT BOOKSTORE - SWAINS - BOUGHT THE FOLLOWING BOOKS: WILDLIFE - AUSTRALIAN NATURE MAGAZINE 10:2 (FEB.'48) AUSTR. ABORIGINAL PLACE NAMES - JAMES R. TYRRELL THE PLATYPUS - CHARLES BARRETT KOALA - "" AN AUSTRALIAN BIRD BOOK - J.A. LEACH THE LORE OF THE LYREBIRD - AMBROSE PRATT NEW BIOLOGY - M.L. JOHNSON & M. ABERCROMBIE WHAT BIRD IS THAT - NEVILLE W. CAYLEY (PLUS 1 COPY FOR DON CARTER) TO POST OFFICE TO SEND A FEW POSTCARDS (POSTAGE - TUPENCE HAYPENNY) HOTEL FOR LUNCH: "PRAWNS" (OUR SHRIMP) SERVED WITH SHELL ON + A POOR KIND OF MAYONNAISE FOR DRESSING. TO MUSEUM (MR. TROUGHTON PHONED - ASKED HIM NOT TO COME IN) - BY WAY OF HYDE PARK - TOOK PICTURE OF MUSEUM FACADE. VERY OLD FASHIONED, BUT HAVE SOME SPLENDID MATERIAL: 2 ESKIMO CULLEN, 1 GREAT AUK SKELETON + EGG, GOOD MARSUPIAL MATERIAL IN CASES (BUT POORLY DISPLAYED), EXCELLENT ALCOHOLIC MARSUPIAL YOUNG MATH. (TANGAROO ON TEAT), GREGORY'S FROM
Page 50
FISH TO MAN SERIES", EXCELLENT MINEROGICAL COLLECTION (CASTS OF GOLD NUGGETS - ONE, "WELCOME STRANGER" - 23.80 OZ.) SYNOPTIC BIRD COLLECTION HAMMED IN TIGHT!, GOOD "ABO" COLLECTION (SPEAR-THROWERS, BARK BOATS, CROCODILE SWIM- MING HOG, KANGAROO NETS, WALLABY BASKET SNAKE + OF COURSE BOOMERANGS). STAYED UNTIL 5; - CLOSING. WALKED BY BOWLING GREENS - WATCH THEM ROOL A FEW ENDS. WENT IN CATHEDRAL TO LOOK AT STAINED GLASS - BEAUTIFUL. STROLLED THRU PARK. WATCHED GIRL'S CRICKET MATCH - USE PADDLE-SHAPED BATS. TO BOTANIC GARDENS FOR FEW MINUTES - VERY LOVELY - OCCUPIES A HARBOR POINT. FRAGRANT BEDS OF PINK PETUNIAS. SAW A FEW BIRDS: 1) INDIAN TURTLE-DOVE (VERY INSISTANT COO-ING) 2) RED-VENTED BULBUL (2 WHISTLED NOTES) 3) HOUSE-SPARROW 4) STARLING 5) COMMON MYNA ALL OF ABOVE ARE INTRODUCED 6) BLACK & WHITE, WAGGED TAIL SIDEWAYS, FLEW CLOSE TO LAWN 1) SMALL, ERCT TAIL, BLUE & BLACK ABOUT HEAD, FAMILY PARTY (BILL REDDISH-BROWN - PLUM. BROWN) 8) ROCK DOVE (MANY BLACKISH ONES. TO HOTEL TO DRESS FOR DINNER AT GLEN EAGLES WITH JACLY ANNE THOMAS, + SHIRLEY GRANT. POOR SHERRY, 1 DOZ. SMALL BUT VERY TASTY OYSTERS, 3" FILET MIGNON !, DOMESTIC HOCK (FAIR), PIE A LA MODE (FAIR PIE-APPLE ; ICE CREAM SURPRISINGLY GOOD BUT TINY PORTIONS). GAVE ANNET. PRESENT OF BOX OF "VEL" - DELIGHTED. TO TIVOLI THEATER (AS GUESTS OF BRITISH COUNCIL) TO SEE BALLET RAMBERT (GISELLE, BLUEBIRD, GALA PERFORMANCE). IT WAS RATHER GOOD BALLET - SALLY GILMOUR, GOOD. THE MATINEE WAS HIGHEST ATTENDANCE IN TIVOLI HISTORY. BALLET HAS MADE A BIG HIT WITH AUSTRALIANS IN SYDNEY. LETTERS FROM MAY #3 + MOTHER - MAY'S FATHER DIED 2-11-48. MAY IN FLORIDA - MOTHER AT 12 HIGHLAND. PUCKED UP AIR TICKETS FOR BRISBANE.
Page 53
MON. FEB. 23, 1948 LENNON'S HOTEL, BRISBANE. (PRONOUNCED BRISBIN) UP AT 7:1 A.M. - PACKED - BREAKFAST AT 8: TO POST OFFICE TO MAIL LETTERS TO ITAY - GIRL "MIXED UP" THE STAMPS A BIT SO "DORY" COULD HAVE A GOOD SELECTION. WE THEN WENT TO THE RATION BOARD + APPLIED FOR VISITORS' RATIONS. WE RECEIVED: CLOTHING RATION CARD - 56 COUPONS; MEAT - 83 COUPONS; TEA - 44; BUTTER - 31. THE WHOLE AFFAIR TOOK ONLY 10 MINUTES - NOTED ON PASSPORT VISA. GEOFF WENT OFF TO DO SOME BUSINESS CALLS - I WENT TO A 2ND HAND BOOK STORE, DYMMOCHTS, TO LOOK AT BIRD BOOKS. THEY HAD 2 GOOD ONES; BUT TOO DEAR. BOUGHT ONE ABOUT HYRE BIRD. WENT TO NODAR TO FIND SOMEONE WHO KNEW ABOUT MY SHUTTER TROUBLE, + TO ENQUIRE ABOUT FLASH BULBS ON PLANE - NO HELP. BACK TO HOTEL AT 10: CHECKED OUT, TAXI TO TRANS- AUSTRALIA AIRLINES. JACK THOMAS THERE TO SAY GOODBYE. ASKED ABOUT FLASH BULBS - BAGGAGE DEPT. SAID NOT TO TAKE. COACH TO KINGSFORD SMITH AIRPORT. EN ROUTE, HOUSES ALL ALIKE, ALL WITH FENCES - SOME SLUM AREAS OF TIN CAN DUMP TYPE. NOT A PRETTY AIRPORT. OUR PLANE THE THOMAS MITCHELL - 11CH - 44 PASSENGER - WE HAD A FULL HOUSE. TAKE-OFF IN SHORT RUN. SWUNG AROUND FIELD + OUT OVER SYDNEY HARBOR - A BEAUTIFUL SIGHT. THE GROUND WAS RED WITH COLOR OF ROOF TOPS. CLIMBED STEADILY TO 8000' - AIR SPEED 230 M.P.H. + 10 MILE TAIL WIND. AIR TEMP. 60°. SMALL PUFFY CUMULUS. SMOOTH SAILING. PASSED BARLEY SUGAR CANDY. STEWARDESS BROUGHT US A COLD LUNCH SOON AFTER FLIGHT UNDER WAY - QUITE GOOD. NO ONE APPEARED VERY INTERESTED IN FLIGHT, AND YET THERE WAS BEAUTIFUL COAST + CLOUD-LAND VIEWS. HIT A FEW BUMPS OVER BRISBANE (1:30 P.M. - LEFT 11:15 A.M.) AND THEN A QUIET LANDING. COACH TO BRISBANE + TAXI TO HOTEL. LENNON'S HOTEL - BEST IN TOWN - WAS MACARTHUR'S HEAD QUARTERS IN AUSTRALIA: VERY MODERN CONSTRUCTION - CORNER WINDOWS, AIR-CONDITIONING THROUGHOUT, TILE BATHS WITH ROOM, BLOND MAPLE FURNITURE, BUILT-IN RADIO, PLENTY OF LIGHT, ICE WATER FOUNTAIN AT END OF OUR HALL. VALET SERVICE GOT OUR SUITS + TROUSERS PRESSES IN A HURRY. UNPACKED A LITTLE AND CHANGED SHIRTS. THEN OUT ON ERRANDS.
Page 55
Tues. Feb. 24, 1948 Lennon's Hotel, Brisbane, Australia. Up at 8: Breakfast at 9: A day of much pleasant activity. Went to P.O. to mail Kay's letter + a few post cards. The old- est P.O. in Queensland. Platypus, Koala, Emu, Kangaroo, & the Royal Family are well represented by pictures on stamps. Back at 10:30 after registering with the State Immigration Officer—turned in passport photos. He is a nice chap, knows brass & all about us. In same bldg. with T.A.A. Mitchell called Geoff to say that our plane reservations for the 2:30 tomorrow are O.K.—800 odd miles—2:30 to 9:30—3 stops on coast. Mr. Spence met us at hotel—took us to Botanic Gardens. Mr. White away—his assistant showed us around. Met a Mr. Blake (Grasses)—a correspondent of Mr. H.K. Svenson; also Mr. Smith. Very lovely gardens on the River Brisbane. Next to see John Burke of Shipping Co. of that name— started by grandfather. Pessimistic about coal shortage for his ships—due to rail strike. The "Time" may not get to Cairns with all our luggage until middle of March. We hope the "Wandana" will be late going N. to Cairns. Hoots as tho Mr. Tate & I will be doing some collecting near Cairns for a few weeks. Understand Miss Neuhauser was refused a new collecting permit. Mr. Burke has low opinion of present Labor Government. Doesn't worry, however; ties his ships up & goes off for a game of golf. Lunch time so Spence took us in town to his club—Tatter- Sall's—primarily a racing club (bookmakers) have tables there for business. A high-ceilinged, comfortable, old- fashioned building—a long bar at which I had 2 ginger beers. Bottled here in town—fair. Bar has series of swinging awning (automatic) fans over standing space—very com- fortable. A light lunch—oysters, snapper + ice cream. Learn that little milt is pasteurized—ice cream is & they are importing more equipment. Mr. Spence drove us up hill (Mt. Cuth ) for view of Brisbane—bay—coast—river and Mt. in distance. Then to Queensland Museum to meet Mr. Mack, Mr. Vernon [illegible], & Mr. McEanna. Harold will be with us for a couple of months. Mr. Mack took us around exhibits—he is doing fine work in matter of rehabilitating the Museum Exhibits. Had tea; met girl artist.
Page 59
THURS. FEB. 26, 1948 HIDES' CAIRNS HOTEL, NO. Q. ALL 4 OF US ARE TOGETHER AT LAST! G.H.H. TATE CAME IN ON THE 10:30 P.M. PLANE. GIL BATES HAD HIS PICK-UP TRUCK THERE AND LEN, GEOFF & MRS. BATES & I DROVE BACK TO THE HOTEL WITH ALL G'S LUGGAGE. WE WERE AWAKENED AT 7: P.M. BY A GIRL WANTING TO KNOW WHETHER WE WANTED MORNING TEA. BREAKFAST AT 8: THEN WE WENT OVER PROVISION LISTS WITH LEN. TO BURNS PHILP TO MEET MANAGER WHO SHOWED US AROUND & INTRODUCED US TO HIS DEPARTMENT HEADS. TO BANK TO MEET MANAGER WHO WILL HOLD OUR AMERICAN DRAFTS. TO P.O. - MAILED A LETTER TO ITAY (CAIRNS #1). MET "ERNIE" STEPHENS - PRES. OF CAIRNS NATURALISTS CLUB. HAD A GINGER BEER WITH HIM. INVITED US TO A SPECIAL CLUB MEETING TONIGHT TO HEAR LEN GIVE AN INFORMAL TALK ON NYASALAND. LUNCH AT HOTEL. B-P. WAREHOUSE VERY MODERN (FOR CAIRNS) - A FINE PLACE TO UNCRATE GEAR, DRY SKINS & SKULLS, UNPACK & SORT OUR GEAR. CONCRETE FLOOR, TIN ROOF & SIDES, LIGHT & HIGH-CEILINGED. IN P.M. WE SPENT TIME PICKING OUT FOOD & PROVISIONS FOR 1ST PHASE OF TRIP (AT B-P). FOUND SOME ENGLISH BRASS PICTURE WIRE FOR SNARES, TO HOTEL FOR SUNDOWNER WITH GIL BATES & MR. BROOKS (A DENTIST & BEETLE COLLECTOR). DINNER, MR. STEPHENS & MR. WYER CALLED TO TAKE US TO MEETING. LEN GAVE AN INTERESTING TALK & GOOD QUESTION PERIOD FOLLOWED. THEN GEOFF & I WERE ASKED TO SAY A FEW WORDS. I BROUGHT GREETINGS FROM THE LINNAEAN SOCIETY. WE ALL WENT TO HAVE TEA & COFFEE AFTERWARDS. A FINE INTERESTED & INFORMAL GROUP (07 & Q'S). THEN TO AIRPORT. WE STAYED UP UNTIL MIDNIGHT TALKING WITH GEORGE. HAS HAD A FAIRLY GOOD TRIP BUT RAIL STRIKE UPSET EVERYTHING. G. LOOKS WELL. REMEMBER GIL'S STORIES OF CAUCUS & CACTUS & HORSE.
Page 61
FRIDAY, FEB. 27, 1948. HIDES' CAIRNS HOTEL, Austr. UP AT 7:30 FAIR + WARM. BREAKFAST TOGETHER FOR FIRST TIME. GEORGE AND I TOOK HIS SKINS, SKULLS + ALCOHOLICS + COLLECTING TRUNKS TO BURNS PHILP WAREHOUSE AFTER LUNCH. WE STRUNG-UP THE UNDRIED SKULLS, PUT THE SKINS OUT TO AIR, MADE FORMALIN SOLUTION FOR REST OF MATERIAL. TOOK MODAM 35 TO CAMERA STORE - SHUTTER RELEASE IS ON THE BLINK + ONE OF STRAP SUPPORTS IS BROKEN, GOING AIR EXPRESS TO BRISBANE. THIS A.M. WE WENT WITH GIL BATES + TIM BUZZACOT TO KOAH WHERE WE VISITED A THRIVING EXPERIMENTAL FARM RUN BY MR. [illegible]. HAS SOME VARIETIES OF SUGARCANE THAT TIM + GIL WANTED TO CHECK FOR DISEASE. IF AT THE END OF 17 YEAR STOCK IS STILL CLEAN, THEY CAN DISTRIBUTE FOR PLANTING. GEORGE COLLECTED SOME SOIL SAMPLES + I SAND SAMPLE. CAMERA SHUTTER NOT WORKING - ONLY ONE PICTURE. SOME BIRDS BUT GOING TOO FAST TO IDENTIFY. "FOREST" COUNTRY (WALLADIES - NONE SEEN). LARGE TERMITE HILLS - WAIST TO SHOULDER HIGH - REDISH - ONE, NO HARD OUTER SHELL - ANOTHER, WITH HARD SHELL, PULP LAYER, THEN TUNNEL PASSAGES. BLACK TERMITE NESTS IN TREES. DROVE N.W. OF CAIRNS - STOPPED AT LOOKOUT FOR THE FINE VIEW OF SEA, MTS., + CAIRNS SUGAR CANE FIELD. WE DROVE IN RAIN FOREST COUNTRY - MANY TREES WITH VINES + FERN PLATFORMS IN TREES. FIRE-SWEPT COUNTRY - EVEN THE RAIN FOREST ("SCRUB"). GARDENIAS GROWING IN THE GARDEN. TWO SONS, 5 DAUGHTERS. SAW A SPINE-TAIL, HAWKS OVER RIDGE (WHITE HEAD), SWIFTS, FINCHES, SWAMP PHEASANT. TO MEETING OF THE NO. QUEENSLAND ORCHID CLUB TONIGHT AT 8: DR. KNOTT - PRESIDENT, EXHIBITION OF SOME MEMBER-GROWN ORCHIDS. ONE CHAP GAVE US A SMALL COLLECTION OF BEETLES. LEN GAVE SHORT TALK ON NEW GUINEA COLLECTING. MET CHAP OVER SUNDOWNERS TONIGHT AT HOTEL MR. GALLUP WHO IS IN CHARGE OF NO. QUEENSLAND ROADS, LOVES BUSH + MAY SEE US IN IRON RANGE LATER. MAY FIX SEVERAL DAY TRIP FOR US TO A VIRGIN RAIN FOREST AREA. PACKED EXPEDITION BOX FOR WEEKEND TRIP.
Page 67
MON. MARCH 1, 1948 HIDES' CAIRNS HOTEL RETURNED KEY FOR WAREHOUSE TO BURNS PHILP. MAILED EXPOSED KODACHROME (CAIRNS #1) TO ROCHESTER - COST 8D + 3D REGISTRATION - 1ST CLASS MAIL. THIS IS ONE OF FILMS THAT SHUTTER EXPOSED ON WINDING. LETTER FROM DON CARTER ENCLOSED NEW MAP OF AUSTRALIA. TO WAREHOUSE TO WORK ON PADAMELON SKIN - EARS, NOSE + TOES. SPLIT FEET OF POSSUMS + POISONED. IT WAS LIKE AN OVEN + I REALLY HOST WATER! TO HOTEL FOR SODA LEMON SQUASH BEFORE LUNCH. CAR CALLED FOR US TO TAKE TO ROAD COMMISSION. MR. GALLUP WAITING FOR US. SHOWED ON LARGE SCALE MAPS LOCATION OF A DOZEN ROAD CAMPS WHERE WE COULD STAY FOR A COLLECTING TRIP. DECIDED TO LEAVE WED. A.M. - GEORGE TO GO WEST TO CHILLAGOE CAVES FOR BATS; DROP ME AT HERBERTON WHERE RANGER WILL PICK UP TO TAKE TO MAALAN - SU TTIE'S GAP ROAD CAMP ON THE WALTER HILL RANGE (12 MILES S. OF MILLAR-MILLAR) - ELEVATION 2500' - IN VIRGIN RAIN FOREST. GEORGE WILL JOIN ME IN 2 DAYS. BACK TO TOWN TO TRANSFER OUR SITINS + GEAR TO A BUILDING ON WATERFRONT THAT "ERNIE" STEPHENS IS TURNING OVER TO US. WONDERFUL COMPARED WITH WAREHOUSE - PLENTY OF SHELF SPACE + ROOM TO WORK IN. THE MUSEUM BUILDING OF CAIRNS' NATURALIST CLUB IS NEXT DOOR. THIS LOCATION HOUSED AN ARMY CAMP - MOST BUILDINGS SOLD + TOWN WILL MAKE PART OF THE LOTS. CARETAKERS (MR. WILSON + MR. BAIRD) VERY FOND OF AMERICANS - WISHED THAT U.S.A. HAD TAKEN OVER AUS- TRALIA - CIVILIAN EMPLOYEES OF ARMY. JAP THREAT VERY REAL ON THIS PART OF COAST. READ LETTER OF APPRECIATION TO ARMY C.O. OF THIS AREA - VERY TOUCHING. TO HOTEL FOR SUNDOWNERS - ARMSTRONG (USED HIS TRUCK FOR WEEKEND - HE IS ARRANGING FRESH FOOD DELIVERY BY TRUCK FOR CAIRNS WHILE STRIKE LASTS), "GIM" BATES - INVITED US TO DINNER TUESDAY NIGHT; ERNIE S. + H OF US. GIL TELLS SOME VERY FUNNY STORIES. HARD SHOWERS TWICE TODAY. STAYED AT HOTEL IN EVENING.
Page 70
WED. MARCH 3, 1948. WALTER HILL RANGE (ELEV. 2500') MAALAN-SUTTIES GAP ROAD CAMP HAROLD MOON (DRIVER - 4 WHEEL DRIVE WEAPONS CARRIER) AND JIM ABDISS (ASSISTANT TO MR. GALLUP - ROAD SUPERINTENDENT) CALLED FOR US AT 7:30 A.M. CLIMBED UP TO THE "TABLELAND" (RAIN THE NIGHT BEFORE - MANY SLIDES - "CREEKS" RUNNING HIGH). MET "SNOWY" BAKER (ROAD BOSS OF TABLELAND AREA) + LOADED MY GEAR + TUCKER. GEORGE TATE, HAROLD + JIM WENT ON TO CHILLAGOUE. WE STOPPED AT SNOWY'S CAMP AT RAVENSHOE FOR LUNCH. COLLECTED SOME SPIDERS AROUND SHED (OPEN FOREST). INTO TOWN TO BUY MEAT FOR BAIT, FLASHLIGHT FOR JACKING. WENT TO MRS. BARTLETT'S HOTEL TO SEE HER 2 WHIP-TAILED WALLABIES, 2 GREAT GRAY MANGAROOS, EMU, DINGOES AND BRUSH TURKEYS. ONCE HAD PET TREE MANGAROO. TO MRS. PALMERS * TO SEE "FLYING MICE" ACROBATES PYGMAEAUS. ENDED BY MY BUYING FOR 10 "BOB" A PIECE (2 POUNDS). GAVE ME A BLIND SNAKE AND A BLACK + WHITE + RINGED SNAKE. TO ROAD CAMP IN P.M. - RAINED 12" THE NIGHT BEFORE - ROAD ROUGH IN SPOTS. PASSED ONE BRIDGE THAT HAD BEEN UNDER 7' OF WATER, MAN + WIFE TRAPPED ON TOP OF CATERPILLAR TRACTOR FOR THE NIGHT - HOUSE ALMOST WASHED AWAY. TOM O'REILLY (CAMP FOREMAN) + BOB REYNOLDS (TIMEKEEPER) + 15-20 OTHERS IN CAMP. WENT JACKING IN RAIN AFTER DARK. NOTHING DOING. COLLECTED 2 FROGS + LARGE WORM. SET TRAPS - 15 RAT - 6 STEEL #1½ . COMFORTABLE CANVAS COT - 3 BLANKETS - SLEPT WELL. RAINED 3.85" DURING NIGHT. RAINED ON + OFF ALL DAY. * V.D.7 - 10099 ) 67 COLLECTED BY CAT. V.D.8 - 10100 } ALCOHOLICS 67 OPEN "FOREST" (NO "SCRUB") V.D.9 - 10101 ) 67 OUTSHIRTS OF RAVENSHOE V.D.10 - 10103 ) 8 MAR. APR. - 1947 ALSO SET 6 SCHUYLERS.
Page 86
FRIDAY, MAR. 19, 1948 RETURN TO HIDES CAIRNS HOTEL FROM MOSSMAN HYDRO STATION ONLY ANIMAL IN TRAPS - YOUNG WHITE-TAILED RAT (AT THE MARSUPIAL MOUSE BOULDER SET #1½ STEEL TRAP. NO TRAPS SPRUNG NEAR INTAKE ON WILD BANANA BAIT. MADE UP RAT + SHINNED OUT THE "OLD MAN" PADE- MELON THAT I SHOT IN SCRUB LAST NIGHT. HE WAS TOUGH TO SKIN. BROKE OUR TENT CAMP JUST BEFORE A LIGHT SHOWER. PACKED UP MY SHINS, SKULLS + SKELETONS + LIVE BATS. I HAVE TAKEN A TOTAL OF 25 SPECIMENS AT THIS CAMP - 7 SPECIES: RATTUS, MELOMYS, ESOODON, "PADEMELON", ANTECHINUS, FREE-TAILED BAT, UROMYS - NOT TOO BAD FOR SOMEONE GREEN TO THE AUSTRALIAN SCRUB. LEN BRASS SAYS THAT SPECIMENS COME SLOWLY IN SCRUB ANYWAY. HAD MY FIRST GRANADILLA FOR LUNCH. JUICE IS SOMWHAT TART - SEEDS SURROUNDED WITH JELLY-LIKE SUBSTANCE. MEAT OF FRUIT IS RATHER FLAT AND TASTELESS - JIM COBB SAYS THAT IT MAKES A WONDERFUL PIE. HAROLD LANE CALLED FOR US AT 1:30. TOOK US TO MOSSMAN TO CATCH WHITE BUS FOR CAIRNS. ART TAYLOR DOWN TO SAY GOODBYE. THE SAME BEAUTIFUL DRIVE DOWN THE COAST WITH ONE SHORT DETOUR INLAND TO DELIVER MAIL. PASSED SEVERAL LITELY LOOKING PLATYPUS STREAMS. ON SHORE BREEZE TICKING UP WHITE CAPS AND SHOWING A LITTLE SURF. HOT SHOWER, DINNER + THEN TO MUSEUM TO UNPACK SPECIMENS. G.H.H. TATE ARRIVED IN CAIRNS SOON AFTER WE DID. HE GOT HIS MUST HANGAROO! (HYPSIPRIMNODON - 1 - AT DEVIL-DEVIL CREEK - SAW OTHERS. "SNOWY" BATER WAS RIGHT - THEY WERE THERE. PLEASED TO SEE MY PADEMELONS + THE MARSUPIAL MOUSE. WORK NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM FOR THE CAIRNS NATURALISTS CLUB. MR. & MRS. STEPHENS, GORDON, MR. & MRS. READ & HUGH, MR. & MRS. SEATON - MRS. SEATON KNOWS SEVERAL HOUSES IN CAIRNS WHERE RATS ROOST IN DAYTIME. WILL TRY FOR THEM NEXT WEEK. HAD TEA + CANKES WITH THEM ALL AT 8:00 P.M.
Page 88
Sun. March 21, 1948. HIDES CAIRNS HOTEL Mr. & Mrs. Brooks, Edward & John Brooks (children) were at Hotel for Dr. Tate and myself at 9:00. Up to the Atherton Tableland. Found fruit bat in North Cairns - death on road - in good condition - injected with formalin - threw in back of car. Turned south at Mareeba + went thru Tolga, Atherton, Ravenshoe. Stopped at locality where there was said to be a "Flying Fox" "Camp" (place where fruit bats congregate to rest in daytime - altho they quarrel & yell all day. We found some men hunting "Flock" pigeons (?) - feed on a small black berry in "scrub" (rain forest). They offered to help us find bats, but we were in a hurry to reach Tully Falls. Found a ring-tailed, short-eared possum & a rat-mangaroo on road. We treated with formalin. Possum was pretty bloated + head crushed - we'll take a chance on saving it. Tully Falls - 120 miles from Cairns - the highest falls in Australia & doubtless the most beautiful. Take dead-end road south from Ravenshoe thru scrub. Small garden & covered shelter with picnic tables near the lookout. Took several pictures (start of Cairns Roll #3). Cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, cold chicken, milk, pie, cake for lunch. Large pool at head of falls - a swimming hole. The water cascades down 700' to 900' in several falls - runs off to East in a beautiful narrow gorge. Hills and slopes covered with rain forest. Home by way of Innisfail, (around shoulder of Bartle Frere) & north along foot of Bellenden Ker - thru Babinda (H. Raven worked on Babinda Creek) & Gordonvale. Car struck boulder at side of mountain road down from falls - all a bit shaken but car OK. Beautiful stands of tree ferns in creek beds. To Brooks for supper. I boiled the corn - good! They have a pet green frog which sleeps in small vase 1/2 filled with water all day - comes out at night - they feed him cockroaches. To Museum where we did a fast job of skinning our pick-ups. They had kept very well with injections! Bed at 11 p.m.
Page 89
MON. MARCH 22, 1948 HIDES CAIRNS HOTEL ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL DAY - COOL BREEZE. WROTE "DORY" - CARDS TO MOTHER, MR. GOODWIN. SENT SAND SAMPLES TO BILL DOWNIN. TO MUSEUM TO LOOK AFTER RAT KANGAROO AND POSSUM. SKINNED OUT FEET AND POISONED. CLEANED SKULLS OF ABOVE + FRUIT BAT. MEAT SAFE IS NO LONGER SAFE - WIRE HAS PARTED ALONG ONE SIDE. PADMELON SKELETON IS ALMOST DRY. (1 LB.) RESTED AFTER LUNCH. BOUGHT MUSCAT RAISINS, PEANUT BUTTER (1 LB.), POLED OATS (2 LBS.), BALONEY (THEY CALL IT WINDSOR SAUSAGE HERE) 1/2 LB. PUT THE HOT THRU THE MEAT GRINDER (MINCEING MACHINE) - USED ONLY ABOUT 1/2 LB. OF OATS. MADE A DARK BAIT WITH GOOD CONSISTENCY. BACK TO MUSEUM TO FINISH SKINNING FEET. UNPINNED MY MOSSMAN SPECIMENS. GEORGE TATE AND I HAVE COL- LECTED 121 SPECIMENS TO DATE - NOT BAD FOR SHORT TRIPS HERE AND THERE. NO. SPECIES MUST BE APPROX. 20. GORDON STEPHENS DROPPED IN AT NOON TO RETURN RAT TRAPS - NO RATS. G.T. WAS GOING TO GIVE HIM A LESSON IN SKINNING. MUCH INTERESTED IN CLEAN-UP OPERATIONS. MR. FLECKER VISITED US AND WAS SURPRISED TO SEE SUCH A NUMBER OF SPECIMENS. HE IS A JEWISH DOCTOR AT THE CAIRNS HOSPITAL - RADIOLOGIST. VERY MUCH INTERESTED IN ALL BRANCHES OF NATURAL HISTORY. A BIT ON THE KNOW-IT-ALL SIDE, BUT QUITE GENUINELY INTERESTED. SAMPLE DINNER: CREAM SOUP, KIDNEY SAUTE, ROAST PORT + A DELICIOUS DROWN APPLE SAUCE, BOILED GREEN CABBAGE, SWEET POTATO + YAM, JELLO WITH CUSTARD + VANILLA ICE CREAM, CREME DE MENTHE IN LOUNGE. MR. TATE LONG DELAYED BAGGAGE ARRIVED FROM ROCKHAMPTON - NOW HAVE AMPLE TOW + ARSENIC-ALUM. A FEW TRAINS ARE RUNNING AGAIN. GEOFF + GEORGE DOWN TO MUSEUM TO WORK ON INSECT COLLECTIONS. WILL SEND OFF CAIRNS #8 ROLL OF COLOR FILM TO MORROW. HAVE SHOTS ALONG CAIRNS-MOSSMAN HIGHWAY, PORT DOUGLAS, MOSSMAN GORGE.
Page 109
SUNDAY APR. 11, 1948 HIDES CAIRNS HOTEL A BEAUTIFUL DAY! THE DAY OF MY FIRST VISIT TO THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. I HAD SEEN GREEN ISLAND EACH TIME I STOPPED AT THE KURANDA ROAD LOOKOUT - A LOW GREEN DOT ON THE HORIZON. A SMALL EXCURSION BOAT (MAINE SIZE) - THE "MALITA" LEFT CAIRNS AT 9:30. VERY CALM SEA. TOOK PICTURES (MOVING + STILL) OF THE TABLELAND SCARP & PEARTS. WE RAN OUT OF HARBOUR PAST FALSE CAPE, BY THE BAY AT THE HEAD OF WHICH IS A LARGE ABO MISSION STATION (MRS. MCLEOD'S CORAL & SHELL DIVER LIVES THERE), PAST CAPE GRAFTON - THE N.E.LY EXTENSION OF THE COASTAL RANGE S.E. OF CAIRNS. A LARGE TERN WITH THE HEAVY BILL OF A CASPIAN - COMMON NEAR THE ISLAND; MEDIUM SLATE TERN WITH WHITE CAP; SLATY-BLUE HERON - YELLOW IRIS, LEGS & FEET, CHALKY BLUE BILL; WHITE REEF HERON - ALL OVER THE EXPOSED REEF FLATS. ARRIVED AT 11:15 - LOOKED FOR SHELLS, COLLECTED SAND SAMPLE - TOOK 12: GLASS-BOTTOM BOAT. MUCH CORAL NEAR WHARF - OF MANY SPECIES, SHAPES, COLORS. REEF FISH DODGING AMONG THE CORAL GROWTHS, SEA-URCHINS WITH FOOT-LONG BLACK SPINES & 5 REFLECTING EYE SPOTS - I VERY LARGE GIANT CLAM, BY ITSELF ON A SAND BOTTOM. LUNCH AT THE KIOSK FOR 3 S. - REEF FISH FRIED IN BATTER. INTO MY BATHING SUIT & THEN OUT TO THE BEACH WHERE THE TIDE WAS ON WAY OUT! THE "NIGGER-HEADS" MARKING THE EDGE OF THE REEF WERE SHOWING - THESE ARE BLOCKS OF CORAL THROWN UP AT THE SURF LINE. WITH SNEAKERS ON I WALKED OVER THE FLAT CORAL BEDS - NOW ONLY ANKLE-DEEP IN WARM WATER. 4 SP. OF SEA CUCUMBER - YADE GREEN W. ITNOBS - LONG, BLACK, ANCHORED IN THE CORAL BY ONE END - WHITE (SAND COAT) WITH BACKGROUND BLACK SHOWING THRU IN PATTERN - LARGE SANDY COLORED, CUCUMBER GIRTHED. MOST AMAZING IN COLOR - THE NUMEROUS INDIGO STAR FISH, SAND CRABS EXACTLY THE COLOR OF THEIR BACKGROUND. PETAL LIKE SPONGES. SMALL GIANT CLAMS EMBEDDED IN THE CORAL - BEAUTIFUL SPOTS OF BRILLIANT EMERALD (15") GREEN ON THE EDGES OF THE MANTEL. A SMALL CARPET SHARK WITH 2 BLACK PATCHES ON BACK - STRANDED IN CORAL POOL: A CONE POISON SHELL. A CRIMSON RED ROSE PETAL SHAPED SPONGE OR SEA ANEMONE. A WONDERFUL DAY! MET A MRS. MCLEOD - A CORAL COLLECTOR - ON BOAT COMING HOME. INVITED TO SEE COLLECTION. TO COCKTAIL PARTY GIVEN BY DUPAIN - MR. DE BURNS PHILP. TO MUSEUM AFTER DINNER TO MUSEUM DRY SPECIMENS.
Page 114
FRIDAY APR. 16 ON BOARD S/S LOCHIEL WAS THERE EVER SUCH A SAILING! THE MATE DRUNK - THE TORRES STRAIT BOY "COCO" FAIRLY HIGH & RELUCTANT TO LEAVE HIS HALF-CASTE GIRL FRIENDS - THE COOK "TERRY" ALSO HIGH & SHOUTING SONGS TO THE GIRLS. HOWEVER, OUR AMERICAN SKIPPER FINALLY GOT EVERYTHING UNDER CONTROL & WE CAST OFF FROM THE DOCK AT CAIRNS AT 12:15 A.M. - THE DECK PILED HIGH WITH SALT, ICE, FRUITS, VEGETABLES & OUR BIKES ON TOP. TO BED AT 1:AM. IN THE ROOMY FO' CATTLE - 5 BUNTS & A TABLE & A FULL COMPLEMENT OF INCH LONG COCKROACHES (THE FIRST NIGHT - IT'S BEST TO GO TO BED WITHOUT LIGHTS). SLEPT WELL - UP TO SEE A BEAUTIFUL SUNRISE! COMING UP TO PORT DOUGLAS ABOUT BREAKFAST TIME. THE WHITE FIGURE OF "THE GOOD SHEPARD" STOOD OUT ON THE HILL BE- HIND MOSSMAN - COULD ALSO SEE THE GORGE CLIFFS IN- LAND. THE TABLELAND, COASTAL RANGES & BELLENDEN ITER SHOWED ON SKYLINE FOR MANY HOURS. "LOCHIEL" - 25 TONS REGISTERED - 52' - BEAM 16' - DIESEL - BUILT ON TYNE - A TRAWLER TYPE. OUR EXPEDITION BOXES PACKED TIGHT IN THE SINGLE HOLD FORWARD OF WHEELHOUSE. CREW: CAPT. - WM. WALLACE - AMERICAN (OREGON) - COMPETENT - VERY LIKEABLE. MATE - ? - AMERICAN - BILL FLATTENED HIM LAST NIGHT & HE IS SLEEPING IT OFF IN THE STERN SHEETS. LEFT AT COOKTOWN. A.B. #1 - "BLUEY" - ENGLISH - HARD WORKING & WILLING. COOK - TERRY - CANADIAN - NOW A PHILIPPINO - KNOWS HOW TO "SCROUNGE" A GOOD MEAL OFF THE LAND. COOK'S BOY - IAN MACKAY - AUSTRALIAN - BOUND FOR T.I. NICE DOY, A.B. #2 - KOKO - TORRES ISLANDER - GOOD NATURED - KNOWS WATER, PASSED MT. THORTON IN A.M. "LEN" HAS CLIMBED TWICE. LATER MT. FINNEGAN (3740') - WE WILL WORK THIS AT END OF OUR TRIP. ARRIVED AT COOKTOWN AT 6: P.M. - ON S. BANK OF ENDABOUR R. BACKED UP AGAINST MT. COOK ON EAST. SAW FINE SHELL COLLECTIONS OF MR. & MRS. RUSSOW, WHO RUN TROCUS SHELL LUGGER. TOOK US ON BOARD - TASTED TURTLE MEAT - GOOD - HIVE BEEF. WENT TO VISIT A DR. KESTEVEN - ONLY DR. IN COOKTOWN - A CHARMING & INTELLIGENT SCIENTIST. MAJOR WORK ON LEVEL OF SKULL & CEPHALIC MUSCLES. GAVE US 2 BATS HE CAUGHT AT HOSPITAL. WANTS ALLIGATOR & TURTLE EGGS TO STUDY EARLY JEVER. A BEAUTIFUL MOON OVER RIVER - SOUTHERN CROSS OVER COOK MT. SAILED AT MIDNIGHT AFTER UNLOADING DECK CARGO. RAW FISH & onions - ALSO MACKEREL STEAK FOR DINNER.
Page 116
SUNDAY APRIL 18, 1948 ON BOARD S/S LOCHIEL UP ABOUT 4: A.M. FOR A LOOK AROUND. MOON HAD SET BUT SKY IN EAST LIGHTNING. STARS CLEAR - NO SQUALLS. BILL WALLACE UP FIXING WATER PUMP. SOUTHERN CROSS NEAR SETTING FOLLOWED BY POINTERS. TO BED UP SOON AFTER SUNRISE. WE PASSED CAPE MELVILLE TO PORT DURING THE NIGHT AFTER WE RESUMED COURSE FROM SWITZER REEF. MOST OF DARK HOURS SPENT CROSSING THE WIDE N.E. POINTING MOUTH OF PRINCESS CHARLOTTE BAY. AT 8: A.M. WE WERE OPPOSITE BREAKFAST CREEK, + HOW SANDY BURKITT IS. COMING UP ON OUR STARBOARD BOW. HAVE SPENT MOST OF DAY HEADING ALMOST (345°-350°) NORTH ALONG COAST PASSING A SUCCESSION OF LOW COASTAL HILLS WITH THE BACKBONE OF THE MCILWRAITH RANGE TO THE WEST - THE COUNTRY WHERE THE "TERRIBLE ARCHER" RIVER HAS ITS HEADWATERS. WE ARE NOW (2:30) WAITING FOR CAPE DIRECTION, THE SOUTHERN GUARDIAN OF LLOYD BAY INTO WHICH FLOWS THE LOCHART RIVER. THE RBO MISSION OF SAME NAME HAS MANY NATIVES WHO KNOW THE "BACK BLOCKS" WELL. THE BARRIER REEF ONLY ABOUT 20-25 MI. OFF SHORE. BLIGH BOAT ENTRANCE IS ONLY A FEW MILES N.E. OF PRESENT POSITION. A FLATTENED FISH OF OVATE SHAPE - ABOUT A FOOT LONG - A SHIMMERING BLUE (PALE) JUST JUMPED OUT OF WATER, DOVE + JUMPED AGAIN IN A QUICK SERIES, COVERING ABOUT 5 FEET WITH EACH SKIP. PASS BEAUTIFUL SAND BEACHES EVERY FEW MILES - SEA IS AN HONEST WATER-GREEN. HAVE PASSED A NUMBER OF SANDY ISLETS - NO VEGETATION - THIS P.M. GOOD LOCALITIES FOR TURTLES, THEY SAY. SPENT AN HOUR THIS 9.A.M. UNTANGLING OUR 2 FISH DRAG LINES - A 30" BARRACUDA THAT BILL CAUGHT DURING NIGHT MESSED UP THE LINES. SOON AFTER WE HAD LINE OUT AGAIN A "WHITEFISH" STRUCK - HAS LONG THIN SICKLE-SHAPED PECTORAL FINS - BLUNT NOSE + A "MACHTEREL" TAIL. RAW ONIONS, CUCUMBERS, TOMATOES, CORNED BEEF + PAPAYA FOR LUNCH. 2 FRIED EGGS, SLICE OF HAM + FRESH ORANGE VUICE. TASMANIAN APPLES + MANDARINS TO EAT WHEN WE WANT THEM. OUR SAILS ARE SET TODAY - JIB, MAINSAIL, + WHEELHOUSE VIGGER.
Page 118
Tues. APR. 20 THE DAY WE HAVE BEEN HOOPING FORWARD TO SINCE THE START OF THE EXPEDITION! WE LANDED ON RED ISLAND POINT ON THE WESTERN TIP OF THE CAPE YORK PENINSULA ABOUT 9: A.M. WE LOOK OUT ACROSS A 1/2 MILE OF WATER TO RED ISLAND + MUCH FURTHER OUT TO THE ISLANDS OF THE TORRES STRAIT. UP A 1/2 HOUR BEFORE SUNRISE - THE C.Y. LIGHT BLINKING TO PORT + THE SKY COLORING. NO BIRDS AS ON THE ROUNDING OF NORTH CAPE, N.Z. - ONLY A SINGLE RED-BILLED GULL. WE RAN TO S.W. PAST A FEW SMALL ISLANDS + THEN THRU A TRICKY CHANNEL EAST OF RED IS. TO OUR LANDING. ON THE POINT ARE A FEW TUMBLE-DOWN SHACKS, PILES OF U.S. AIR FORCE FUEL DRUMS, A GOOD WHARF (ROTTEING AWAY), AN OLD LANDING CRAFT (THE "QUEEN MARY"), AND INLAND A FEW HOMES. "JETTY JOE" MCLAUGHLIN WAS ON HAND TO CATCH OUR LINES. THE UNLOADING OF OUR GEAR WENT WELL - OUR PICTURES WILL GIVE A GOOD IDEA OF THE QUANTITY. GOOD-BYES TO OUR FRIENDS ON THE LOCHIEL + SHE CAST OFF FOR THURSDAY ISLAND - THE END OF HER TRIP. COUNTRY IS LOW LYING + WOODED, SANDY BEACHES + A HOT SUN IN A CUMULUS + MAJES TRIL SKY - TEMPERED BY A S.E. BREEZE + AN OCCASIONAL SHOWER. JOE GAVE US A GOOD MEAL - MACETERAL STEAKS, BREAD + MELON JAM, PINEAPPLE. OUR TABLE WAS UNDER A BROAD-LEAVED TERMINALIS IN THE WIND - SWEEP SHARDE. TREE IN FLOWER - SWEET SCENT. TOM + STAN HOLLAND (SONS OF THE MR. HOLARND OF LOCHERDHE) CAME DOWN TO GREET US. FATHER WILL COME IN HIS TRUCK IN P.M. FOR US YOUR GEAR. BILL WALLACE GAVE ME THE HYDROGRAPHIC SHIP OF CAPT. JOHANSON'S THAT HE FOUND ON THE OLIVE RIVER. "TERRY" MAY SEND ME A COLLECTION OF SHELLS FOR "DORY". SAILING IN A BEAM SEA LAST NIGHT - DID A LOT OF ROLLING.
Page 126
Naru Point May 12 Newcastle Bay Naru Point May 13 Newcastle Bay Today we drove by beach, grass & scrub north along coast to the old Tardine (later H.S. Vidgen) (now deserted) plantation at Somerset. Surrounded by coconut palms - house of corrugated sheets - on high hill looking over narrows to Albany Is. Wongai tree, 2 cannon in front; coortown orchids in full bloom in rear - vinca running wild around lawns. First order of business was to knock down all the Hipposideros (red, & brown) bats in the living room - bag of 38 (of which we made up 16 tonight). Took pictures + then off to Poo Creek for a Tucker box lunch. Visited Late Bronto & Wintura (where I collected frogs for Geoff). No birds on lakes. Len's boy, Willie Somerset, born on old plantation. Took care of bat collection - found 3 large green frogs in camp. Saw large eel + some fresh water prawns in our little creek. May 14 - " Lockerbie " Out at dawn to collect traps. Broke camp very efficiently & were away at 10: A.M. Our vacation by the sea over. 1 Rattus in my sand dune line - 1 Melomys in George's. Made them up. This brings our total for the week up to 60 (38 bats) - 14 species! Of course the best find was Acrobates. Trail home was good + I spent my time catching spiders on top of the truck; beating the trees produces a fine variety of species. 7 of us rode the top, with Geoff + Mr. Hollands inside. Saw 2 Goannas making off at top speed in the Savannah forest. Found a carpet snake in road - I whacked him across back + Geoff put in his snake bag - 9'3". Mrs. A: Had lunch for us - fresh baked bread - roll - cookies - melon jam - papaya - limes. Put our camp in order. Worked on pademelon toes & ears. Some rain at dinner. Black palm in scrub very striking. Bee-eaters common.
Page 130
May 24 RED ISLAND POINT VISITED "CAT" TRAPS IN EARLY A.M. - NOTHING. COLLECTED 1 BIRD + MADE UP. G.+ I REPACKED + LISTED ALL OUR MAMMAL GEAR. UNPINNED SPECIMENS. WENT WITH "STAN" HOLLAND AFTER LUNCH TO COWAL CREEK MISSION. MET MR. TAMWOY (BADU IS.) - HEAD OF MISSION. LIVING SHACKS SMALL + DINGY - TIN COVERED. THE CHAPEL "ST. MICHAELS ALL ANGELS" A GOOD BUILDING, AS WAS SCHOOL HOUSE. FOUND NATIVE CAT ON RIDGE POLE - ONE OF BOYS POTTED HIM OUT + I SHOT WITH .410 DUST. PICKED UP A "GIN" TO BRING BACK FOR ONE OF "STAN'S" BOYS. LARGE GARDEN WITH YAMS + CASAVAS. FLAG WHITE W/TH RED CROSSED STRIPES. SAW A BLACK IBIS (WHITE TAIL + WH. BREAST). ALSO A WHITE HAWK. MADE UP "CAT" AFTER DINNER (THIS IS #4). OUT "NACHTING" FOR 2 HRS. AMONG THE BLOODWOODS. SET 3 TRAPS. NO RESULTS - BUT A BEAUTIFUL NIGHT. May 25 RED ISLAND POINT SLEPT IN THIS A.M. G'S TURN TO VISIT NATIVE CAT TRAPS. BLANK IN SCRUB TRAPS. PACKED SPECIMENS + FINISHED ODDS + ENDS. NOW WAITING FOR BARGE FROM THURSDAY ISLAND TO PICK US UP. NOW DINNER TIME, BUT NO SIGN YET. MR.+ MRS. HOLLAND, PEARL, MR. & MRS. BORNHOLT, NORMA & "KENNY" DYCH (ROMA, QLD.) CAME DOWN TO SEE US OFF. SAMPLE OF ORE (WOLFRAM) FOR "DORY". TOOK 2 PICTURES OF ISLANDS TO WNW. THREE "SHELL" BOATS ARRIVED TODAY - MOST INTERESTING IS A FORMER CRASH BOAT (NOW GEARED TO HELMET DIVING). DIVERS KEEP ANY PEARLS THEY FIND. BEST DIVING AROUND 10 FATHOMS. SHOT AT BATS AT DUST BUT ONLY TIPPED ONE. OUR FINAL COUNT FOR "TIP" IS 303 SPECIMENS - 21 SPECIES. UP TO STAN'S - WALLACE, A DIVER TELLING ABOUT HIS WORK. SEA SNAKES OFTEN DART AT HELMET GLASS - DON'T BITE OFTEN May 26 RED ISLAND POINT LUNCH OVER + WE ARE STILL WAITING FOR OUR BARGE. RAIN SQUALLS. ROLLED OUR SWAGS. COLLECTED SNAIL SHELLS ON BEACH. STAN TELLING US ABOUT DUGONGS - TOW A DINGHY FOR SEVERAL MILES - 2 YOUNG USUALLY - IN HERDS. TURTLES - I HAND AT EITHER END OF SHELL - TO SURFACE + PUT HOOK IN NEXT SKIN FOLDS. BARGE FINALLY SHOWED UP AT 4:30 P.M. UNLOADED - THEN CREW WENT TO SLEEP. WE TURNED IN NEARLY - UP AT 2:19 A.M. TO LOAD OUR GEAR. SKIPPER - BILLY FOX - A HALF CASTE. VERY PECULIAR MOTION TO L.C.F. CURLEW-LIKE BIRDS SEEN NEAR HORN IS. WH. BELLIED SEA EAGLE IS A COMMON BIRD IN THIS REGION.
Page 131
(WAI-BEN) MAY 27, 1948 FEDERAL HOTEL - THURSDAY IS CAST OFF ABOUT 3:30 A.M. SET A CLEAR COURSE FOR ENTRANCE IS. DAWN WHEN WE PASSED - PRINCE OF WALES IS. (MURALUG) A LONG SCRUB-COVERED ISLAND TO THE WEST - HORN IS. (NARUPAI) TO THE EAST. ARRIVED AT #1 NETTY AT 8:A.M. 5/S CORA + ALAGNA TIED UP. TO FEDERAL HOTEL FOR BREAKFAST - DUGONG STEAK + TURTLE STEAK! (ALSO GINGER BEER). SENT OFF PTG. WITH 4 FILMS - AIRMAIL. THE TOWN IS CALLED PORT KENNEDY ON CHART. IN P.M. CLIMBED MILLMAN HILL + FOUND 2 HIPPOSIDEROS IN GUN BATTERY STORE ROOM. MET DR. BARNES T WE WENT TO OLD NAVAL FORT ON GREEN HILL (195'). ABOUT 1500 BATS IN UNDERGROUND ROOMS - ALL 1 SPECIES - WITH INTERESTING COLOR VARIATIONS. TO MR. + MRS. CADZOW'S FOR EVENING - 4 TORRES STRAIT CAPTS. - ALSO BANK MAR. (MR. MEEH). MUCH SONG - WHISKEY - STORIES. HAD EYE DRESSED. MAY 28 FEDERAL HOTEL - THURSDAY ISLAND TO "ALAGNA" TO GET SKINNING INSTRUMENTS. I WENT TO HOSPITAL ON VIVIEN PT. TO HAVE EYE ATTENDED TO. BEAUTIFUL DAY - PICTURE ACROSS NORMANBY SOUND TO P. OF W. IS. HAD TEA WITH DR. BARNES MATRON SCOTT + SEVERAL OF "SISTERS" (NURSES). EYE IMPROVED. GEORGE MADE UP 16 BATS I COLLECTED - I CLEANED SKULLS. AFTER LUNCH (KERIRI) ALL WALKED UP GREEN HILL - TOOK PICTURES - HAMMOND ISLANDS TO N.W. G.+ I COLLECTED 51 MORE BATS - EMPHASIS ON BROWN PHASE. TO DR. + MRS. BARNES AFTER DINNER. ANOTHER EVENING OF STORIES LEMONADE + "SAVORIES". DR. EXAMINED EYE + SAID I MIGHT LEAVE T.I. WITH OTHERS. BATS SQUARED ALL NIGHT. SAT. MAY 29 ON BOARD 5/S ALAGNA TO HOSPITAL FOR DROPS. POLICE ROUNDED UP A MISSING BIKE. TO DOCK WITH GEAR. SAILED AT 9:A.M. OUT THRU ELLIS CHANNEL. ROUNDED TIP OF AUSTRALIA - THEN THRU ALBANY PASS - ON BRIDGE SNAPPING PICTURES - SAW SOMERSET WITH ITS RED ROOF + COCO NUT PALMS - A LOVELY SPOT. PAST FLY POINT + A GLIMPSE OF OUR BEACH ON NEWCASTLE BAY. NOW 2:P.M. + WE ARE OFF JACKY-JACKY - A BLUE SEA + FAIR WEATHER. WE PICKLED THE 51 BATS IN DINING SALON. INCLUDING G'S PRELIM. TRIP THIS MAKES 710 SPECIMENS TO DATE.
Page 145
TUES. NOV. 16, 1948 LAT. 00-50 N LG. 97-18 W COVR. 062 DIST. 341 ST.T. 24h (19D-04h-47m) Av.Sp. 14.21KT ToPan. 949 Fr.Br. 6731 SEA LOW S.E. LY SWELL WIND S.E. 4 APPROACHING THE GALÁPAGOS. WENMAN IN SIGHT SOON AFTER NOON. BIRDS OBSERVED DURING A.M.: (CAPT. SAW AT 35 M. RADAR AT 30) 1) GULL-SWALLOW-TAIL - 1ST AT 8 A.M. - JOINED LATER BY 2 OTHERS STRIKING PATTERN 2) FRIGATE BIRD - ALL WH. HEAD, BREAST + UNDERPTS. - WASHED ON HEAD (1) + BR. WITH YELLOW-BROWN - VENT + UNDER TAIL COV. BLACK - ALSO REM. OF PLUM. EXCEPT FOR WHITISH BAND ON EACH WING (2° COV.) - BILL CHALK BLUE. 3) PETREL (STORM) - WHITE RUMP - VERY RAPID FLYERS (NO "PADDLING") (3-5) PLUM. VERY DARK. 4) GANNET - LIGHT BROWN ALL OVER (2) 5) TERN - VERY DARK ABOVE - WHITE BELOW, ON FOREHEAD + SIDES OF NECK - ALL TERNS SEEN CONFORM TO TYPE 6) PETREL - UNIFORM BROWN ABOVE - TAIL + UNDER TAIL COVERS DARKER - UNDERPTS WHITE (SHARP DEMARCATION LINE UNDER EYE + SIDE OF NECK) P.M. 12:M - 1: P.M. #3 (4) - #6 (5) STRONG, RAPID FLYER - #5(5) - PETREL (1) - MED. SIZE - APPEARED ALL DARK - SHEARWATER-LIKE #2 (3) Z AS ABOVE (SAME ?) I ALL BLACK, BILL LIGHT + RED THROAT PATCH - #4 (1) 1: P.M. - 2: #3 (1) APPEARED TO HAVE SQ. TAIL - RUMP PATTERN [illegible] #6 (2) RATHER CHUNKY APPEAR. 2: - 3: P.M. #2 (3) SAME ONES ? #5(4) FLOCK AT 1:45-50-60[illegible] PETRELS? PETREL - MED. SIZE - DARK ABOVE, WHITE BELOW 3: - 5: P.M. 3:45 P.M. #4 (2) BROWN-BLUE THROAT PATCH #6 (5) #4 (1) WHITE EXCEPT 1° + 2° + TAIL - 1 WH. + 1 BR. NEAR 5: P.M. #5 (70) FLYING TOWARDS WENMAN (BEARING 280° AT 4: P.M. 7: P.M. SW.T. GULL IN WHITE PASSED GAL. MAIN GROUP (ALBAMARLE Pt.) 65 MI. TO S.
Page 147
FRI. NOV. 19, 1948 LAT. } PASSING THRU AV. SP. - LG. } CANAL TO PAN. ARRIVED PANAMA 6:00 A.M. COUR. - FR BR DIST - SEA - | RAIN SQUALLS IN ST.T. - WIND - | VICINITY UP AT 4:30 A.M. - OFF ISLANDS AT CANAL ZONE - CAME IN TO ANCHOR AT MOUTH WITH S/S TALCA, S/S THIRLBY, A SMALL MODERN U.F. LINER. PLOT AT 7:30 - STARTED IN. WAITED FOR AGENT WITH MAIL (LETTERS OR CARDS FROM K., DORY, DOT, & MOTHER). TOOK MANY PICTURE THRU LOCKS & LAKES. SAW BARRO COLORADO. CAME TO DOCK IN CRISTOBAL JUST BEFORE DARK. SHORE LEAVE FOR AN HOUR. HAD SOME SPANISH PRACTICE. BIRD LIST: (DUCK HAWK FLEW JUST AT DAWN - OUR SIGNAL BLINKER SCARED HER OFF - 3/4 M. OFF SHORE) 1) FRIGATE-BIRD - 20-30 OVER BAY & TOWN - 3-4 ALONG LAKES 2) GULL - 75-100 - LAUGHING - AROUND BAY & HARBOUR 3) CORMORANT - ? - 5-10 SCATTERED AROUND CANAL (VERY DARN) 4) PELICAN - BROWN - 10-15 - BOTH BAYS - LOCKS 5) TERN - ? - 15-25 - ATL. END GATUN LAKE - BLACK CAP & BILL 6) DUCK - (SP.?) - 7 - BAY - NO MARKS 7) VULTURE - TURKEY - 10-15 8) VULTURE - ? - 50-75 - BUFF BASES 1° S. PAC. END - MOST 9) OSPREY - 1 - LAKE 10) HAWK - BUTEO (SP.?) - 1 - NO MARKS - WITH VULTURES 11) EGRET - SNOWY - 5 - YELLOW FEET - MUD BANKS, PAC. ENTR. 12) HERON - GR. PLUM TYPE - 2 - MUD BANK 13) HERON - ? - BLUE OR TYPE - GREENISH LEGS 14) IBIS - 1 - PINK LEGS & FEET - WHITE BODY - BLACK WING TIPS - MUD BANK 15) SANDPIPER - 4 - "PEEPS" - NO MARKS 16) LARGE WADER - 1 - MOD. LONG BLACK BILL - MOTTELED GR. - BROWN 17) GRACKLE - 1 - PURPLE TYPE - WH. EYE 18) BLACKBIRD TYPE - 5 - MUCH OLIVE IN PLUM - CENT. PECT. LONGER 19) HUMMINGBIRD - 1 - ALONG CANAL - BRIGHT GREEN BREAST 20) SWALLOW - 5 - SLIGHTLY FORMED TAIL - DARK PLUM. PATCHES 21) FINCH TYPE - 1 - NO MARKS 22) PARROT - 30-40 - SHORT, CHUNKY BODY - YELLOW UNDER WING SAILED 8:30 P.M. GEOFF OFF AT BALDOA IN A.M. MOON RISING OVER HILLS BEYOND COLON AS WE CLEARED HARBOUR