P13 [FEB. 10 - CONT.] A RIDE BACK TO TOWN IN A JEEP. THERE ARE A NUMBER OF GUN RUNNERS - CONCRETE + STEEL SCATTERED ALONG THE COAST. FORTUNATELY THEY WERE NEVER USED. PASSANGERS WERE POURING ON & OFF SHIP LIKE A STRING OF LEAF-CARRYING ANTS! ARMS FULL OF GRASS MATS, GRASS SHIRTS, FANS BORDERED WITH FEATHERS, BASKETS, HATS DECORATED WITH TAIL PLUMES OF TROPIC BIRDS, WOODEN OUTRIGGER CANOES, MANGOES, PINEAPPLES, COCONUTS, WOODEN CEREMONIAL SWORDS, SHELL RINGS, NECKLACES, AND WOODEN SALAD + RELISH BOWLS. ONE OLD MAN HAD A NOVEL "SALES" TALK. STARTED BY ASKING IF I HAD WIFE, THEN PRESSED SOME TABLE MATS INTO MY HAND - "PRESENT FOR WIFE", THEN SAID HIS WIFE SICK IN HOSPITAL, WOULD I GIVE HER PRESENT OF HALF DOLLAR - IN OTHER WORDS, AN EXCHANGE OF GIFTS! WITH HIS WIFE GETTING MUCH THE BETTER BARGAIN. BUT I WOULD HAVE NONE OF HIS PRESENTS, IN FACT, ALL I BOUGHT ON ISLAND WAS A ROOT DEER + A SUNDAE. THE OUTDOOR MARKET WAS VERY CLEAN, AND THE VARIOUS TRADE STORES WERE VERY NEAT. WHEN A RAIN SQUALL BLEW UP, THE MARKET LADIES RETIRED WITH THEIR GOODS BENEATH THE PORCHES OF NEARBY HOUSES. THERE WAS A LOCAL DANCE HALL, CROWDED WITH SHIP'S CREW AND PASSENGERS DRINKING BEER, WAS ANOTHER FOCAL POINT OF ATTENTION. ONE NATIVE GIRL WAS DOING SOME BEAUTIFULLY INTRICATE POSTURING WITH HER ARMS & HANDS - OTHERS WERE JUST LITTER-BUGGING. WALKED UP A LITTLE "STREET" LEADING TO HILL IN BACK OF TOWN - MANY LARGE FAMILY HOUSES - SOME THATCHED, SOME TIN ROOFED. ONE HOUSE HAD AN OVERHEAD WATER SPOUT EMPTY- ING INTO AN OUTDOOR SHOWER - 3 SMALL BOYS UNDER THE STREAM HAVING A WONDERFUL TIME! THE PEOPLE ARE SIMPLE IN THEIR DIGNITY & MANNER, THEY ARE WELL BUILT, AND GRACEFUL IN CARRIAGE. EVERYONE WAS GREATLY IMPRESSED BY THEM. THE GIRLS EVEN PLAY BASKETBALL. U.S. NAVY MONEY HAS PROBABLY SPOILED SOME OF THEM. PRICES ON IMPORTED GOODS ARE, OF COURSE, HIGH. AS WE LINED RAILS BEFORE SAILING, THE PASSENGERS STARTED THROWING COINS FOR CHILDREN TO SCRAMBLE FOR ON THE CONCRETE DOCK. SOME ALSO DIVING FROM OUT- RIGGERS ON OTHER SIDE SHIP. MOST CANOES VERY NARROW - OPENING ABOUT A FOOT ONLY. DO NOT GRASP TOP OF PADDLE AS WE DO IN CANOEING. MANY BIRDS FOR AN HOUR AFTER WE SAILED. ESTIMATES: