[Austin Rand's journal, 3rd Archbold Expedition to New Guinea] July 6, 1938 to May 5, 1939

Rand, Austin Loomer, 1905-1982; American Museum of Natural History. Department of Mammalogy. Archbold Expeditions Collection; American Museum of Natural History; Archbold Expedition to New Guinea (3rd: 1938-1939)
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Travel Scientific expeditions Birds Equipment and supplies Description and travel Rand

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182 Pages
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HOLLANDIA July 6th Today the Menajk came in with iur gasoline--a case-oil boat of a little over 2000 tons as I found out from the ship's papers. These were being handed from hand to hand; 8 officers and 30 men and one black ship's cat they had on board. They wanted to throw it overboard in the water and, tied to special strings, tow it to the side of the dock and deliver it there. This they did with the gas for the Government--87 octanes in 44 gal. drums-- but we had ours unloaded onto the barge; 198 drums (10 gal.) one trip. The plane arrived from P.M. about 3 PM--over clouds from Aramia to near Cyclops-- didn't see country--crossed range at 5700 meters. This PM Hoagland came down with telegram that Bantam on an island 90 miles west. Wanted 200 kg rice brought out. R.A. made plans to send ship out first thing in AM. (R.A. was laid up during stay in port with boil on hip--still bad, can't walk much and can't fly) Dyaks day off because of boy who died yesterday. Ebele sent down new, short-haired cuscus from Cyclops and 2 scrub-hens eggs. July 7th In AM up shotijy after $--plane left daylight, reached ship in about 40 minutes. Rogers says it is high and dry on sand bank; ran square on. Plane brought back Mr. and Mrs. Jacobs and two sons, boys of 14-15 or so, and two very sick natives, one with malaria and pneumonia. This upset radio building as sets not ready yet so did not go in to Teerink. A field radio left with Bantam--contacted them at 4 PM--no message. Mr. Jacons and sons visited us in PM over coffee-- asked to bring Mrs. Jacobs down to see store. Mr. Abele sent down another grey cuscus alive, a spotted one alive, a fïeld rat (bandicoot) alive, 2 ducks, a rambler's egg and a lizard. The two boys arrived in rain with ducks lashed to pole.
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Dr. Toxopeus finally undid his live plants and sent them aboard the plane. Originally they were in 2 cases too big to put in the plane and weighing 50 kg each. They are to go out to the Idenburg and be planted there. When Dr. T. returns from Habbema he expects to find them flowering and butterflies on them July 8th Rain AM. Jacobs and family in to tea in AM. In PM plane to Idenburg where they spent night. Three Navy planes arrived last night. July 9th Plane returned early. One of radio receivers doesn't work. Teerink back. Bagir, patrol boat, arrived to pick up drums and help float Bantam. They're unable to pull it off. Jacobs and family left 5.30 on Bagir. Plane brought out on ramp--creaking of timbers as it forced planks up and nails pulled through. Teerink says variety of things about. July 10th Sunday--tea with Dutchmen. Meyr-Drees to go to Idenburg first month, also Toxopeus' assistant. A flock of several hundred swifts over town--60-70 C. lowei--rest mostly C. fusciphae, later feeding low over grassy ridge until dark. C. esculata fluttered about trees as usual. Watched young cassowary, one week old, fight with cuscus in new house. July 11th Packing stores and collecting equipment. Teerink suggested the Dr. act as mess officer. Boys brought in Lanchura tristissima and pig, black with white marks.
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July 12th Packing stores today; finished Habbema current and two months reserve. Boys got 22 skins today, none very good but better than nothing. One of the Malays tried to incite a Papuan to come back for a higher price for a bird he sold me Manacodia chalybates--and I threatened him with policemen. The three Navy ships are still here. After talking with Teerink today finally decided to eat together inland. Find Teerink has plenty of big shell and salt for trade but no beads, cloth, face paint nor big white shell. Played checkers in evening. 7 tallegallus, 1 megapodium and 3 cassowary eggs, gathered in last two weeks give no sign of hatching. Buried them in paddy today. July 13th Working on schedules today and discussed them with Capt. Teerink and Co. Finally persuaded Meyr-Drees that staying at the Idenburg was best. He didn't like the soli- tude it entailed. Teerink didn't pay much attention to him. Meyr-Drees has found a genus tree here not previously known for N.G. and is anxious to do 14 days more work here. Reported that Bantam is to be abandoned. Three navy planes doing a bit of machine gun practice. Our plane on ramp; planning to put it in water tomorrow. Boys did birds all by themselves today. A Tabate boy brought in two young Collicalia esculata and two old C. fusciphaga , one of last a female, laying. Said he had taken them at Bruckman's canes, where there are many. Nafri he said was the place to go for bats, and to take a gun. Amat, says Mielke, has a bill of 35 g. at one Chinaman's shop and f45 at another for beer.
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July 14th This AM prepared 6 loads for parachutes as follows:- 1 Kero. case--14 water-filled beer bottles, 28 kg--chute opened, perfect drop; 1 bottle only broken, packed in light amount of excelsior. 1 case peaches--31 kg--good drop on three shrouds, one being broken. All tins in good condition; only a few very slightly bulged. 1 case prunes--31 kg--as above. 1 case pickles and 1 case tongues--32 kg--chute didn't open; most of tins badly bent, crumpled, but some not so--all usable. glass bottles of pickles; some neck broken, some only crowns off. None of the meat lost but some of the tins wouldn't keep as bending around the seams. 2 cases soap, 33 kg--chute didn't open-- most of tins spoiled--a few could per haps be used. 1 case meat, lost in forest. 3 rice sacks--20 kg--tightly sewn in fine copra sack, loosely in another. dropped at same time. Landed 20 yards or so apart, one with a small break on one end, losing perhaps 1 kg rice. All dropped from 300-400 feet or more, on grass hill. Good soft soil, across corner of bay. Chutes 4m x 4m ordinary calico £45 per bolt on last boat, with fish-line shrouds from each corner (4 in all) and an 8 in. hole in centre. Chutes just rolled up and thrown out. Returned Hollandia with Dutch party who agreed dropping good. Rogers says parachutes should be loaded 35 lbs for 5 sq feet. in PM going over schedules with Capt. Teerink. Three planes went out and came back today--brought in man sick with diphtheria from Bantam. Mr. Ebele brought a number of things including 20 Megapodium eggs, Tallegalus egg Megapodium and 7 young ducks, as well as mammals, bandboots and petaurus and 2 young.
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Very well pleased with pay. Wants to catch more things for us. July 15th Boat in. Saw dead Dyak's paddle and gear, basket, going back to Borneo, on board--along with sick Dyak who hid his head in shame at having to be returned. Also sent Masser, Macassar man, back to Macassar and paid him off. Has done no work since here, had an operation on his groin and military doctor advises he had best return. Plane made a successful landing on Habbema and R.A. shot 3 coots, 1 duck (Salvadoine) Saw a rail? and a cuckoo. Took off well; can take off 2000 lbs. Returned 4 PM. Mr. Bruckman sent in a few things including 2 young live Micropsitta with dead adult. July 16th Plans. Loading ships. Changed schedules again. R.A. got off a news release to N.Y. Times Ship load 2300 kg increased to 2700 kg. Meyr-Drees and Toxopeus for conference. Drees agrees not to do any taxonomic work and if he does, to talk to Merrill first. Acts as Brass' assistant on Mt. Wilhelm- ina. Collections from high altitudes to be stored at Hollandia and forestry depart- ment material to be picked out when we return. Cornelius and Marcus going in with us at 45 and food. July 17th Sunday. Making plans and all day and writing out schedules. R.A. and me working out 1340 tank exp. Ship at anchor. Navy planes here; one brought out word today from trip to Bantam that KPM pulled it free.
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Meyr-Drees busy packing. Shraeder in to discuss cots, etc. and we ventured as far as Europe and back, to the Amazon and Hagenbecks". July 20th. Fine today--rain PM. Plane returned from landing first load of cargo today. Plane spent night on lake. Booth and Richardsons sent Brass out flowers indicating junction of alpine forest and --forest. Booth said he saw 4 quail plumb in camp itself--Anaumphoris-- and Ramm says plenty of snow on Wilhelmina; temperature 6 above 0 C. Dyak shooting at leatherhead in top of casuarina broke off brown stained tip of dart and thrust broken-off tip into ground, stamping it in with heel. Rendering a poisoned dart harmless in settled community. July 21st. Van Arken cabling Teerink for advice as to route--and I had to translate their teleggrams for Archbold. And tonight I printed pictures. Rain here most of day and Richardson reported rain and mist at Habbema. No flight. By radio--14 natives Habbema in AM. across bay yesterday; went away in evening. July 22nd. A yellowish wind-driven sunrise between the headlands, the plane riding in the centre. Brass going inland today. Plane took off at 6 AM--quick trip in. No sign of natives today. Brass located our camp on dryer ground than Mielke's choice, 150 feet from soldiers. Sent out a stone axe handle of very light rotten wood. Teerink now plans to come to Hollandia again and go in by 10th flight. Van Arken received directions from Teerink to go directly to new lake where they plan to land stores. Engaged Ebele today at £300 as radio telegraphist for inland. Has been military
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radio operator--now on £1700 per year pension. Was with 1921-22 expedition as radio man--also with government. Mr. Schneider says no danger of flooding our stores like the flood of '23 from rain--now dyke built. July 23rd. Another successful flight Habbema as per schedule. Yancey went in as observer and copilot and finds that the map is all wrong. The photographs which I developed last night however check with the map as do the others--but Rogers and R.A. insist the lake is elsewhere and the valleys run in different directions than those laid down on the map. Yancey now agrees to this. Careful checking--on my part-- shows that the in-land area does correlate very closely with the map but of course there is no correlationwith the Idenburg River which still R.A. and Rogers insist is in a different relation. Mixed. But Brass' and my data, which correlated closely, and which correlates with photographs was laid down on bearings supplied by Yancey and the scale was supplied by him. I'm discouraging natives from bringing in the same things over and over, as they have been doing. And tonight they brought in two young Lorriculus, barely able to fly--said to be taken from a hole in a tree. July 24th. Sunday. Captain Teerink returned to Hollandia. A successful flight and stopped at Idenburg to confer with Van Arken and to fly our route. They visited the native bridge of Grand Valley which Rogers found yesterday. July 25th. Ebeli came to Hollandia--picked up at Sentani after flight on schedule. Van Arken left for inland to receive food August 6th. No contact tonight at 5.30 or 8 as scheduled.
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July 26th. The Doctor left today--didn't leave until 6.30 as Richardson reported fog over lake which burned off. Mr Keese brought a Garia pigeon taken near his place below Sim. Didn't send the boys out today--first day they've not hunted. Sighted the 30-30 and Steve raised the front sight and I've begun to file it down. Paid June expenses Dyaks and Bozzoni July 27th. Again a good sunrise and ship left 6.30 or so--delayed because Richardson reported fog over lake at 6. Arranged for Schraeder to look after Ebeli and food and gear. July 28th. Another successful flight--Yancey went in instead of Archbold. Letter from Brass. Teerink planning a big dinner Sunday. Finished packing today. Toxopeus has double lemons against rheumatism and colds but every time he puts out a box, it isn't sent. Ebeli ready to go in. Teerink supplying food, shelters, etc. Telegram from Erdman and Snelken re reconnaissance for them--addressed Rand-Archbold Expedition. July 29th Toxopeus in today and I follow tomorrow. July 30th Habbema for me with personal boys. Shortly after arriving, natives, a dozen or so, came to my camp and we contacted them shy though and soon left. All we got from them was Banenarva, evidently the Grand Valley, to the north and Baleemma to west. Walked about our many hills in AM. In PM toward lake.
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July 31st. Today the 11th flight of the plane--R.A., R.R., Booth and Brown. Stayed the night.
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August 1, 1938 Plane left early and then collecting. Teerink left about 7:30 - and about 7:30 - in rain - came in two soldiers and a dyak carrying a convict who had fallen on the trail. He was not put in the hospital tent, but in the shelter in which slept the cooks of the Dutch party. August 2, 1938 Clear A.M. here, but clouds on Wilhelmina top - clouds came down later and obscured the tops of the high barren hills - alternating sun and shade during the day - showers and hail late PM. Some rain evening - calm early - then light breeze from East. Across lake with Toxopeus who showed me where Bird of Paradise were, then down lake shore and a few hundred yards down outlet. August 3, 1938 Fog over lake cleared - 7:30, 8:00 or so. Mt. Wilhelmina clear all AM and most of PM.highlands. And sunshine and showers late PM. Down lake along shore - flock of 10-15 Callicalia fusciphyga feeding on swarms of mosquitoes along edge of marsh - a few C. esculesta around trees edge of marsh - seem to have a very green back - later saw one at outlet to lake about trees. Walking through forest near lake shore the strange whited bird flew up lake shore - saw it only through trees and though I fired don't know what it is. Porzona common along shore, calling kik - - - harsh, and a soft bu bu - - - - run together. Salvadorina- saw about eight - flushed from under trunk - or swarm out from reed bed along lake or outlet, or far out in lake - four together in outlet. Podiceps - saw one in outlet. Myroca - only a day or so and all far out in lake - The dense forest about outlet with many more birds than about camp - and different species common. Heard Syma (?) - [illegible] Melidectes belfordi the common honey eater. Macregoria common - also Pararythrius, o
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Anas in outlet - saw a Neopsittacus Over forest. Message from Teerink tonight - 21 KM NE of Habbema at 1800 meters. Met 300 natives yesterday and 400 today - friendly. Richardson to top of ridge north of camp - open forest to top - then can see into Grand Valley - gardens four miles away - good forest below a short ways (?) reach it in one day. Comment from Teerink. Party in good shape - only a bruise - everyone in good spirits tonight. August 4, 1938. Light rain early then clear to noon - high clouds with holes in them - showers in PM - cold and miserable - 8;00 PM beautifully starlight - southern cross just visible - a half hour later showers - wind from NE. Up onto marsh head of lake - then forested ridge SE very little. Message from Teerink - in Grand Valley by high mountain - will stay there for parachute delivery - requests bread and cheese. Yesterday Meyer Dress requested food and collecting equipment though he went in with 800 kg. on July 18. August 5, 1938. After rain of last night clear this AM - toward noon clouds came down to hide top of hills near Wilhelmina. Sun and shine with NE wind light - over- cast this evening - no rain. Across arm of lake and into forest (6 or seven coots) - A pair of b. Gerygone chasing each other about over marsh, lighting on grass stems and trees edge of marsh - also others in open forest in the tree tops. Paramythia. Perhaps the most interesting find was the nest of this species. I flushed the bird when I was six feet from the nest. It flew directly and quietly away (except for beating of its short wings) and did not scold nor reappear. The single egg was warm. It measures about x mm, ovate in shape, texture ground color white tinged pink, markings are fine umber
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dots, sparsely on the smaller end, more densely on the larger end where they converge to make a small wreath. The nest, which I will examine later, was a deep, firm structure seven feet up amongst dense twigs heavily leaved and of bark of dense shrub on edge of glade. This species fairly common in this area. August 6, 1938. Across arm of lake and up grassy glades in forest. The doctor and Tox went up to ridge top to look over into Grand Valley to see plane make parachute delivery. Heard but didn't see plane. Corporal told them he had been over ridge without reporting it. Teerink received delivery successfully--excluding gasoline--as we heard later over radio - Van Arken at new lake where plane landed. He had been there since August 2. About midday Sergeant, four soldiers, 2 convicts and 1 dyak returned from Teerink party - Said left them with 4000 men around them. Friendly. The man with a cut finger, the chief of whole valley (?). Many birds and butter- flies in Grand Valley and Sergeant wants to go back - Natives don't want steel but rope. No natives about here. August 7, 1938. Clear, high overcast morning, no fog on lake top of Wilhelmina, covered later - rain in evening - a rather dull cold day - Over same route as yesterday - but few birds - Cornelius sick (altitude) - more news of advances party over radio. Van Arken to go directly south our ridge. August 11, 1938. In PM watched Bird of Paradise (see species notes) - fifteen natives, males females and immatures and pigs went straight by on track jabbering - Earlier
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six males and pig went by according to [illegible] boy - Soldiers saw none of these according to Huls, though must have passed within 200 yards of camp. Strange this business of locals ignoring us. Teerink wants to patrol Grand Valley - according to rdadio - so have asked R.A. when he will return here. August 12, 1938. Fog early, clear later - fine and warm. Into forest across bay. Psittacella brehmi and P. picta feeding in a taxad; flushed a Rallicula from grassy glades flew into forest (not coll- ected yet) a few yards - fired at a Cacomantis flying over - shape and white streak in wings very conspicuous. This, I think, enables me to place a call that has been puzzling me - a trill that recalls that of Syma but richer - found a new Bird of Paradise nest - probably eggs in it. Huls and Tox up to explore camp site we picked out from ridge. Their find- ings strange compared with our view of country through glasses - left at 6.30 - return about 5.30 - a long hard day. August 13, 1938. Fog early - clear and warm - rain and hail late PM and evening. I went up ridge to north to pick out camp sites to north and to south. I am sure Tox made a mistake about where they've been or the altitude - as bad as his new lake fifteen minutes away from here. Saw the plane come in from north, circle camp and drop mail - then away to Over east. [illegible] radio RA reported landing probably possible on river - one day below where Teerink is - van Arken at meeting place and Teerink 15 km NE. Successful deliveries to them - the position of Teerink something to do with better delivery place. RA reported many landing places one day lower in river - but snags and bends perhaps make it advisable Teerink to investigate before returning here. RA says river flows through gorge to southern plains; ie it really goes to the southwest.
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August 15, 1938. Left Habbema with Brass, Huls and Toxopeus to find site of Wilhelmina Camp. 6.40 Carriers left 7.15 We left camp by boat for across lake. 7.50 Left boat 8.10 Reached shelter on ridge. 8.15 Reached top of ridge - alt. 3280 m. 8.20 Started straight down - to cross on divide between Balim and Wamena - as Huls found crossing the plain by Wamena too rough - all hollows. 8.45 Reached edge of Balim plain at bottom of ridge - alt. 3220. 9.20 Stopped in midst of flat grass plain to rest carriers - alt. 3200. 1 pr. grouse flushed on the plain 1 pippit 2 Pysmopygius big in tree ferns along a gully but birds very scarce on this plain. 9.30 Started on. 9.40 Crossed x a faint E. W. Papuan trail - nearing forest picked up a well travelled native track and followed it to Wamena. 9.55 Crossed Wamena - alt. 3225. This near the forest and near white scar on bluff to South. 10.05 On East bank of Wamena gully - alt. 3220 - one quarter mile from white scar - A Falco br. flew by. Wamena - a shallow sparkling stream bed - 20-40 feet wide - in a 200 ft. deep gully - 200 yds across. 10.15 Started on 10.35 Altitude 3250 Altitude 3250 - native house.
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10.50 Stopped to rest after a bad climb through low rather dense forest - following a well used native track - with σ and ζ Papuan forest tracks in it going our way - have seen these since we first picked up this track. Altitude 3310 - now onto edge of grass and scattered clumps of forest and trees and view back to ridge north of Habbema from which I viewed this two days ago. 11.00 Left - going SE crossed to east of ridge and followed a grassy valley - tree ferns - one half way up slopes second growth forest regenerating after fires evidently. Several big twenty-foot diameter boulders had rolled down into bottom of valley - when entering this valley over a well worn track which in valley has evidently been repeatedly washed away by landslips so trail new here. 11.35 Reached a hole in ground - as though an underground cavern had collapsed. One steep rock wall - native camp under its shade. Tox - ahead - saw a pair of brown falcons on wall but they flew before I arrived and I saw but one flying about - altitude 3380 - rested here. 11.45 Left 12.00 Reached river where had lunch 12.55 Started on up hill - where many woodcock leaving - native track well pronounced. 1.20 Top of ridge 3520 m. 1.40 Left top 2nd ridge 3560 alt. 1.50 Alt. 3640 m. top 3rd ridge - view of 3rd dome (or dome behind it as it proved) deep valley and bluffs beyond.
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yesterday they were trying out parachutes in Hollandia. When plane was circling over lake there was smoke from half a dozen fires coming up from the Baliem to the south. One of Richardson's boys said that yesterday he saw a man, woman and pig crossing valley back of camp. Today the cook came and said one tin sugar finished. So we did some checking of stores. The result is that since August 1 for five people we have used [illegible] sugar 18 kg of sugar (a tin is 1 kg), and 20 tins (1 lb) of butter! August 14, 1938 Dull early and intermittent drizzle during AM - spent it writing up notes. Expect to go out and get bird of paradise nest. August 18, 1938 Fog over lake - clearing later - but clouds covering Wilhelmina - rain late evening. Plane arrived shortly before 9 AM - unloading 2700 kg of Dutch food - my schedule was not complete enough that I left RA - Yancey had the only complete schedule and RA and RRR apparently paid no attention to him. I don't know quite how it will come out. Teerink reports by radio that he has located a clear deep stretch in the river 65 meters x 1.5 km. The plane unloaded in forty minutes - mostly rice - and left for the Grand Valley. The result was that the river was found to be about 65 feet wide but five miles below appeared to be a suitable stretch and Teerink was dropped a note to investigate that. The plane returned to Habbema about 10:30 and stayed the night. Except Archbold, the crew (Jerry, Steve, Ramm and Rogers) slept aboard. RA was going to sleep in my tent but decided the floor was too bare and chose Brass'. In PM RA, RRR, and Ramm and I went duck shooting. I posted them on opposite sides of the lower end of the lake and tried to herd the twenty or so
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Myroca down to them but they wouldn't go. Shot a few coots. I flushed a pair from boat and waited until they got in line, got both with one shot. On down inlet where RA and RR both shot some Salvadorina as it came upstream. RR, Ramm and I walked home while RA home by boat. Rogers told of Teerink's getting gasoline for radio from dyaks who had bottles of it! for cigarette lighters! RA has had no official knowledge of shooting of native in Grand Valley. I talked to Toxopeus and Huls regarding reporting direct to War Office but they pointed out the seriousness of this for Teerink. Will talk it over with him first. We must report each month to van Mook and Boerstra. It will be the best way for us. The Dr. sent a patrol over the ridge to the north and it returned same day with good report - see sketch map and notes on it. The 2700 m. spot will probably be the spot chosen as the next lowest camp. August 19, 1938. Fog over lake early - then clear - but clouds and bad weather in mountains above - plane to stay night here. Teerink over radio about 9. Reported on river and plane left. Returned about noon with half load (17 men including Ebeli) and back about 2.30 with second load. Teerink fit. All seem well and happy. I packed birds this AM. This PM we received schedule which xxx see ( ) Teerink says five days to river where he was picked up to here. This place was not the place on which he reported this AM but a mile lower. These Dutch people--. The landing place is by an immense land slip. When the plane arrived there was a crowd of people there - many decked in head dresses of cockatoo feathers. Teerink said they staged a dance and presented him with three small pigs.
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August 20, 1938 Dull A.M. - no fog on lake - drizzle before seven - but cleared - shower about 8 PM. Distant thunder and lightning in PM Plane left about 9 AM for new lake where they took van Arken and Co. to Idenburg and then went on to Hollandia. RA and I went over to forest across bay, shot and lost one Grame-- the first RA had seen. Seven Macgregoria bird of paradise about area where I took nest and egg. (See sp. notes) Melidectes nest deserted and egg on rim (see sp. notes). Pycropygius big nest had one egg (see sp. notes). Tox. plans to visit 2700 meter proposed camp site Monday and asks Brass or RA to go with him. This PM I went out on lake with lamp thinking I might be able to approach ducks - but didn't work. 15 Anas in cover near outlet. August 21, 1938 Fog early. Clear but clouds covering top of Mt. Wilhelmina all day - Everything very dry - lake falling and pools drying in ridges. Rain after 8 PM. Hunted near camp - collected two Paramythia nests both deserted (see sp. notes) and watched Meg. Bird of Paradise at new nest - at least six or seven birds about - and nest with young - two birds (species note). RA wired van Mooke to request permission to broadcast to U. S. and to museum about group. I sketched and modeled group roughly. August 22, 1938 Warm and no fog this A.M. Low clouds hid top of mountains. No rain - clear tonight. This A.M. with RA to top of ridge to NE - Past native hut in valley. Back along tip of ridge and to camp through Zaglossus forest. In PM to watch bird of paradise nest - coll. nest - both ads. and young. Saw black marsh hawk with white tail! It came over marsh to within 70 then yards it turned and swung. As it disappeared around ridge I started over ridge and a female grouse, crying shrilly, came over and lit by me - evidently frightened by hawk - didn't see it again.
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Tox. left for his over night trip to the 2700 meter camp. Himself, one collecting boy, five soldiers, two convicts to carry soldiers gear and one dyak as carrier! Ten in all - crossed his track over high point of ridge. Teerink to send soldiers shooting to East tomorrow and a three day patrol under a European sergeant to the West to find where track goes. RA thinks place for group background will be mountain as seen from ridge to northeast. Top of ridge surprisingly flat, open, pools of water, thickets of shrubs and clumps of moss - scattered 20-30 feet Libocedrus trees - Practically no real forest - very rarely a Dacridium to East and North. RA got off a news report to Times on land trip. August 23, 1938 Fog early - then clear - thunder and lightning this evening - no rain. To forest across way. Watched Bird of Paradise. Saw a black and white Poeciladryas (same as boys shot) high up in trees of forest. Brass to outlet and got me Hypstrundia and Oreopsittacea as well as Porzana and Podiceps. Teerink sent soldiers out hunting to east and south. They got several finches, a pipit and a grouse. Tox not back. Teerink and I arranged transport for Wilhelmina camp - he and I to go on 26th - To make a camp at [illegible] river several trips necessary - will have kg. food. fifty men - including ten whites at camp there. 2000 veryxgand. Teerink will arrange transport - in 20 kg units See separate sheet for our reservations of mountain. August 24, 1938 Clear cold and rather good golden sunrise. A very rare morning - no fog. Up ridge where had a good view of Carstenz. Hazy to west - hardly visible to naked eye - a cluster of peaks with a dark ridge with scar in front.
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Appears to be a break in range just to east - main range west of Wilhelmina very bare and barren. Back early and arrangements for flight and for trip day after tomorrow. Fourteen Papuans passed near camp and stopped to "speak" with Dyaks - first for long time. Toxopeus returned from his three day trip with several lower altitude birds and plants and tales of being into the jungle. August 26, 1938 A rather dull A. M. - no fog - clouds low in mountains - fine until 2.30 (at camp) rain, hard at times - until four or so, then cleared. To go to top camp this day and next - carriers and ten or more soldiers left 6.30 on first. Teerink and I crossed lake by boat with .... and Cornelius. These last two carrying their own gear and four days food despite their arguments last night against it. On way across Teerink confides he will be a major next year. Summary of trip: Carriers left 6.30 We left south lake shore 7.50 altitude 3200 8.10 top of ridge 8.30 Left 8.45 Bottom of ridge 9.15 Crossed big gully 9.45 Reached forest edge and rested 10.00 Started again 10.10 Crossed Wamena alt. 3250 m. 10.50 Rest place above steep climb through forest alt. 3320 11.05 Left 11.35 Sink hole Alt. 3380.
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11.55 Reached Lunch River alt. 3390. Picked camp site 300 yards up stream on top of 30 ft bank where we were backed up against hill and forest. The way leads past Kremens Camp, across the march straight to hill, up ridge one half way to native track - day along it to next ridge up next ridge through open forest to near top of ridge where shrubs and lichens abound. Then straight down hill through forest, shrubbery and marshy places. The ridge we came down can be recognized from afar by the white sand dunes at the base of the next ridge west. We kept to far east and had to climb in and out of several more gullies than necessary - short grass stiff ferns on ground - wetter than our earlier trip - tree ferns alonggullies. The Wamena - a stream only a few yards wide in spots, flowing over a single gravelly bed.- in a gulch 100 ft deep and 200 yds wide - bits of forest tree along its edges - tree ferns and grass over swampy grass and mossy ground burned trees - wooded cliff 100-200 yards to south - the usual crude native shelter - bark, grass and shrubs fine in center - climb through poor scattered vaccinium forest patches coarse sedge and brachen into next clearing - short grass clearings up open valley to south. Soon into main valley which leads to camp site. Upper half old - dead trees 50 to 60 feet tall standing in second growth. But lower part of valley (vertically) grass and tree ferns. No fresh tracks but running low old tracks still appear fresh. Malomys - picked up skin of body and part of skull - evidently cast aside by natives - My Dyak (one of them stayed at Habbema with upset stomach) insists its a monkey and doesn't recognize teku. It may not be a monkey but it seems to be fine watchem. Hypotinide. One feeding (?) in clear muddy place in grassy valley near stream - ran into grass then flushed - flew a few yards into midst of
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Dyaks who ran it down! Later in evening walking along trail flushed one from short grass slope - gave a short call as it weakly flew a few yards - shot it. Grouse. Boy picked up one - very emaciated - near Wamena - flushed two glass and brush area. Near Wamena - sitting in camp one flew across camp site. Walking to sink hole three flushed from happy buttercup strew slope - [illegible] - out for final snack before retiring - 2♂ and 1♀ - watching sink hole heard one give its characteristic shrill crie--- as it flushed below - eight in all today without looking for them. Soldiers said when they arrived at sink hole one falcon flew out from ledge on which young was sitting. Before Toxopeus saw a pair before I arrived - today soldiers saw two after I left! I returned here - 4:30 or 5:00 or so - saw none. Psittacula picta. a pair feeding low in forest SE of Wamena. Cornelius came in about 3:30, apparently in good shape and spirits - with a Dyak I sent back carrying his load. A convict and four soldiers alone in this party - convict in rain - with arms straight as something didn't look happy. Tonight after eating his plate of rice Teerink gave thanks to the food- for what I can't imagine - his plate of rice - a dried fish! August 27, 1938. Fine all day - clouds obscuring summit periodically - very high even this evening. Five soldiers including native sergeant and two convict carriers left 6.45. I left about 7. Near top of first ridge a Macgregoria. To top of third ridge 750 or so - part of carriers already there resting -
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Down night camp valley - beautiful men of Wilhelmina - a snipe flushed from track - Climbing out to south a McGregoria. In grass and tree fern country - a party of six to eight Lonchura archboldi in tree ferns. Struck anew by very fine think "trik" calls - fifty-five minutes slow walking to view of campsite. Established camp - plenty of timber - all natives sadly handicapped by lack of any knowledge of flies or tents but worked well. This PM, just before dark, the trilled whistle of Syma (?) - No! rather Cacomantis - but fail to get this. No grouse today, though feathers in grass by camp. Scolopax at dark tonight - heard one calling "Queent" then saw it fly high over camp to the swamp below where it apparently perched. Visited the Papuans rock shelter where recently they have made fires. But more interesting is another ledge where natives used to stop. Here bones of pigs and men mingled in the fires and in a roll of bark set up in a cleft stuck with brown leaves - still at- tached were parts of skull and femur of a man. This ledge commands a good view of valley and apparently fairly much used - but not now. The much charred human bones in the bark were evidently buried else- where and carried there. Salvadoria. Flushed one from stream on way in. August 28, 1938. Clear AM - frost - -1 deg. C. 6.30. Clouds shade us off and on all AM - mid PM hail and rain and clouds drifting down - starry tonight. Climbed to ridge west of camp - beautiful view of magnificent valleys and mountains to east - Mt.
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Wilhelmina standing up to west clear. Through a gap in haze see clouds covering southern plains. Teerink leaving tomorrow for Habbema - leaving four soldiers including European sergeant and four convicts. Today climbed to top of ridge east of camp - view of valleys and open forest patches and grass excluding bottom where tree ferns and grass - beautiful view - see Habbema Lake and little lake below Wilhelmina where we will camp - no birds at all on top. Falco brown - sitting on top of ridge 3900 meters. Saw one drop from sky and disappear amongst trees for a few moments - beautiful thing with chestnut back and gray tail - sun shining on it as it rose and away over the valley. Truly a fitting bird for these immense spaces. Dyaks with immense plates of rice - just right after a days travel - a spoon stuck in top and then eating with their hands. Cornelius, a sorry looking specimen with haggard face - thinks there'll be few birds up on the cliffs - a not many anyway - there are no trees anyway and what will they eat? August 29, 1938 Teerink got away this AM about 7. They keep the Dyaks behind so they wouldn't have to keep up with them. Fairly clear early though peaks more or less misted in - then bright until midafternoon when mist closed in up above - none here but a few drops of rain from mist above. Such a tiny bit of the sky I can see above - with its bright, close stars. I've just eaten the better part of two ducks and a grouse and feel at peace with the world! Alone in camp with the murmur of boys voices and the hum of gasoline lamp, lying on my grass floor - "fit for a
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marriage bed" - as an Ambonese soldier described it. Hunting on slopes to northeast today and damned poor it was too. Dog. woke in night - about 3-4 AM to hear dog howl twice from top of ridge to northeast - each time a short "auuua h". This AM 7-8 AM one howled for a few moments from saddle to east where track crosses native track. Now I know where the track which branches below the natural bridge goes. It comes along the north side of the camp valley flat about one half way, then swings westerly and goes over the ridge in a low place to God knows where - somewhere on the south cost! A back track from well up on the ridge leads across just below camp to the cliff here. These naked Papuans cross here. I can't help marvel at their endurance. August 30, 1938. Little frost this AM - clouds and sun this AM - Mists came lower this PM and much fine rain. Toxopeus & Co. arrived this AM. 10-15 or 20. brought a few birds from lower down. Said he'd been working too hard last few days in Habbeema and felt rather tired - he looked it too - an hour behind carriers. Hunting along base of cliff and up trail to top of forest with fair results - Strange how short this climb seems now. Scolopex. Flushed one in grass edge of forest into which it flew, then ran. August 31, 1938. Rather warm this AM - mists low, swirling down into our little valley until mid morning - not as bad here as lower down in valley, however, where clouds right down - fine drizzle off and on all AM - sun for a bit early PM then hard showers as well as drizzle - Camp making pro-
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gressing - Up on ridge where trail goes across - but birds very few - and silent - crossed valley flat and hunted back other side with very poor success - Flushed a pair of grouse just below camp. ? first and wilder as so often the case. In PM Toxopeus went up to lake - with sergeant - saw eight coots and five Salvadorina of which he shot two - Toxopeus brought twenty-three kgs. of food in with him yesterday - but no sugar - tea, butter flour - grease, very little rice - he brought however, palm sugar,currant cordial, chocolate, tinned cake - a big box of soda crackers and a big tin of soup! He says he can use my sugar and that in the mornings we can eat his palm sugar on our oatmeal - only he hasn't any oatmeal! And today he diverted the drainage ditch so as to flow into the middle of camp and then burned up part of the storage tent and told me I was lucky it didn't all burn. And now there is rain on the roof. Maugham wrote "Rain" but why doesn't some one write a sonnet to "Rain on a Roof". The first few patters, the quickening tempo as the bulk of the rain arrives and the first of it hurries or is pushed on; then the sodden heavy drumming of rain drops that blends into a continuous sound - the slackening off as of relief and the few straggling drops that trail on behind. Toxopeus is outside my tent catching moths - his bearded shadow - with hat, net and bottle falls on the tent as fitting subjects for caricatures.
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September 10th Dull AM, fine rainPM, The Doctor, Schraeder, Van Arken and Meyr-Drees arrived about 11 AM with food for all and a dozen carriers to stay and carry us about. R.A. did not go up to above camp as only two carriers available, one sick and one with Teerink's belongings. Hunting slopes to west. Crested starlings, common sp., feeding on first of umbrella trees--singly, pairs more often and threes. Give little call Kek or Ke-ek on my bars at night. Feed on planty fruits (not red ones) breaking off and swallowing whole fruit. Yellow cressam most distinctive field mark. Even when only a glimpse of the bird is caught, its profile with up-turned crest is unmistakable. Papuans left their shelter this AM and crossed just above camp, missing the trail to climb the ridge. Another party coming from the north also climbing the ridge to southeast. The doctor and party also saw many Papuans. September 11th. Dull AM. Moved up to 3800 meter camp where it was also dull. Rain in the after- noon and evening. R.A. made trip in 1 hour 42 minutes. Doctor, Schraeded and Toxo- peus came up, accompanied to cliff by two Papuans from Ebeli. Dyaks went back. Here I am 1 mile east of Wilhelmina Top, now hidden in clouds. Teerink says best day Dyaks had since he came here. Saw and missed one grouse on trail. Set out three steel traps in big run just above camp. September 12th. Sun early, overcast by 8.30. Mist down on mountain top and cold wind and rain PM, starting about 2 PM--just before that, fog as thick as they come, came drifting in from SE for a few moments.
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Beautiful clear moon last night--woke to find it flooding 1/2 tent and making mountains stand black as ink except Wilhelmina which with a slight haze about the summit reflected back light white. The cook told me that this AM at 4 "he be in day he or kitchy" and this AM at 10 "he be one hand see him on hill to North" Omm, ah. Found tins 400 yards above camp left by Kremen. September 13th. A fine day, all day. Sun comes early here. Brass and Van Arken for lunch. Brass sent Meyr-Drees down to the Betman Camp for collecting, after some argument. Plane came in and dropped 1 package meat, apples and eggs. Parachute opened beautifully but fell beyond hill. Soldiers would never have found it. Also dropped one package of bamboos for radio mast--chute didn't open and bamboos badly cracked and not too usable. Toxopeus came up to stay. He seems a kindly, likable soul at times. How I hate to talk with surly regiment people--or rather with people who are off their subject--like T. 80 Km in 4 days in this country. Boy caught 3 stenomys and 1 woodrat in forest fringe. Night, an eerie light on crest of ridge--starlight on fog? September 14th. Clear AM, rain early afternoon, then fine with clouds flowing in from SE. Climbed onto top of grass ridges to north and in front of cliff north of peak. R.A. and Teerink went up to prospect route to peak--saw them on top of ridge just before 10 (left about 7.30). Shortly above 3800 m. all fruit disappears except a few scattered shrubs (prickly leaved berries on which paramythia feed). Several small sharp ridges go up and it is along these that shrubs grow. Went up to 42-4300 meters. Birds :- Turdus Saw 3 or 4, solitary, noisy, up right cliff.
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Callocalia. Heard in evening. 2 top Anthus Heard one or two near top. Pycnopigeus Common only as far as shrubs occur. Meladectes " " " " " Found Mallomys skull embedded in moss; found tracks, probably this sp. t.c. and well used even above any shrubbery mark. Can the natives possibly hunt them? This country seems well travelled. In a little muddy place I saw tracks of this? and a stenomys; later saw old dog tracks in mud. Fossil skulls 6"-9" across weathering out of a narrow bed of drak slate in exposed whitish sandstone, at 4360 meters. Curious wampum-like pebbles littering a bare, dried-up part--or like acorn cups. Beautiful view to north of Domes and their saltings behind--can see two night camps at Habbema. The river named Tussencamp rises just west of Wilhelmina and slants and forms an ideal route from the supposed locality of Wilhelmina pass. September 15th. Fine almost all day with onlyclouds in PM but peak clouded in about 10 AM. Dull war evening with occasional rain and hail. Thunder and lightning in evening. Transport arrived from 3600 meter camp, 5 only. Today hunted east from camp, to south, then north over bare ridge to tops of c Cliff and so back to camp. Saw Brass and two carriers on ridge wset to north. Boy got two pseudocheirus. R.A. and Teerink didn't come down so sending up food in AM. Toxopeus and I discussed bird questions during dinner. He knows well what is written in books but little beyond. Cocomantes Saw one fly to perch on top of dead tree fern shrub. The away into c lumps of trees--have not heard their call here.
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Lonchura archboldi A party of 3 or 4 feeding on ground in short grass scrub; shot one. Saw 3 in PM, all of which I shot. September 16th Clear AM but cold when evereleased occasional clouds cross sun--wind--hail drifty winds of October--and rain in PM. R.A. and T. returned from trip 10 AM. Had already sent carriers 7 AM when I found they returned with Brass from camp at 1 PM. R,A. says G.E. way not practicable; too dangerous to cross a valley of fallen stone and doesn't want to try via north and west. Transport from 3600 meter camp arrived about 9 AM while I was absent. Hunting this AM in forest amongst stones below camp--spent much of time seated on big blocks of rock watching forest below. Mcgregoria saw one) Pyconopigeus several) Meladectes several) Peramythia 1 RM pr.) Returning in forest to South--in places raelly a -?- but rather open forest 20-30 feet high. Track heavily moss grown, and also ground. September 17th. Beautiful clear day ubtil 1 PM when peak began to be covered; then dense msit came into valley as usual, with rain; snow or drift of hail lying just above camp and so on up. Went up to tops of main ridge today--l Km. east of Mt. Wilhelmina. Turdus Several in this treeless, marshy country where I shot 1 ♀ and 1 ♂; evidently breed on ground--perhaps amongst rocks. Anthea This species more common here than I've seen it elsewhere; must favor proximity of wind-swept rocks.
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Grouse Flushed a pair; young flying before its mother 100 feet or so of summit in a place where dense long grass covered an old talus slope. Pycnopigeus Saw one this within a few hundred feet of summit of ridge, where a few scattered bushes grow up under a cliff face. Many rat runs amongst grass and talus--big runs. September 18th September 18th. Fine AM, beginning to cloud om peak at 10.30 but occasionally clear until 2 PM or so when it began to rain and hail. Going clear tonight. Today went along grass valley to where there is a break to north--sketch on previous page. Petroeca rubra New Sp. Only above 4000 ft--4,000-4200--saw 4 then 6; Brass saw 2, then 1, on rocks and tussocks of moss. Grouse Saw 6, perhaps 9, above grass and flushed one σ--at 2 feet from hide under tussock of grass each time ♀ 3--then later singles perhaps of same parties; 10 ♂♀ birds flushed at various times; one σ walked by me at 6 feet behind rock calling hmmm-ummm Lonchura In grass and rocks under cliff at 4200m. Turdus V. F. but high--up into cliff at 4200 m ± Salvadorina sp Tracks in mud around lake, just below peak; about lake nearly 4200 m. Calicaria Hindunacea 6 or 8 over lake at 4150 m. Antheas Common among rocks and in high country. Sometimes parties up to 5. Melidectes b. Only as far as patches of trees went--4100 m. Pycnopigeus biz Did not go up into treeless Scree Valley. Tyta tembicora sp? Flushed one from under rock in coarse talus above timber at 4000 m. Picked up fresh pellet containing remains of immature mallomys.
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September 19th. Fine all day--only in late afternoon did a few clouds collect around peak. Went up to owl cave with W.B.R.--no owl but remains of hundreds of rats, incl. Stenogys (the most common), Rattus?, Mallomys (all full-grown young), peroryetes, pseudocheirus (1) this in clean fragments of bones on the floor, left from a year-old mating. Only a very small portion examined. Also about 10 pellets varying from fresh to disintegrated picked up--not yet examined. Also remains of grouse and a few other small birds--remains very fragmentary. Also old owl feeding place under 2 other ronks and all at or above timber line. W.B.R. found many scots? under ledges and rocks and assumes they must be mallomys. They're very large and at first I thought they might be wallabies. Myzomela rosenbergi one adult ♂ flew by me when I was in talus rocks at 4000 m up where only a few clumps of shrubs permit. Turdus 4000-4100 m, near, chirping loudly on rocks. Anthus Fairly common, singles up to 4s, on big rocks of lower talus slopes.
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October 2nd. Overcast with breaks until 2 or so. Plane made two attempts to get through but failed. Waited between here and Idenburg and spending night there. Three Papuans about there but not very interested in rats and birds. Would rather sell sweet potatoes. Vocabulary.....Rat Baik Bird Turva Decided to cable Van Moek to recall Meyr-Drees and informed him of this in conference with Teerink, Toxopeus, R.A. and Brown and me. He simply tried to get points on which to argue and justify himself. Transport arrived from mountains--the la st. October 3rd. Dull AM, breaking mid-AM enough for plane to get in. Rainy PM and tonight. Packed birds; all but a few are dry. October 4th Fog overlake end--dull AM but not entirely, breaks and some sun this PM. Rain st started about % and continued tonight. Spent day getting material for group--got most of open ground material, and a new orchid for Brass and white Rhododendron from tree--sweet shrub. Lake very high, over banks. September certainly a bad wet month here this year. Plane went into Idenburg today. Doctor reports all well. Nest of Callicalia esculenta in preparation; one snipe. October 5th. Plane in about 10. Collected group material--chiefly Vaccinium.
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Dyak strike? Wings of a dog snipe? October 6th. Rain off and on. Collected tree trunks and some forest orchids. Doctor reported all well on Idenburg. No malaria at the moment and no mosquitoes on the night he spent there. Government radio sending messages over our net as theirs broken down. Doctor said he'd measured several natives and they ranged in height from 1.45 to 1.75 m. October 7th Rain all day. Tied up group material into bundles--all to be dried in Hollandia--put it into tent to dry off surface water at least. Drank too much whiskey last might and this AM paid for it in stomach trouble. Many natives about as usual. October 13th. Sun and clouds in AM. Hard rain off and on in PM: Hunting--forest AM--returning to camp past Papuan house. One man rushed to house, talking in angry tones and seizing a bow and arrows, held them out. A definite threat. Then he made gestures indicating that I was not to hunt look for birds there. In camp Richardson's boys had reported being threatened with drawn bow in the same place. By same sullen-faced man of middle age. Right after arriving in tent an old man came in with the bundle of arrows and gave them to me--I returned a shell (this old man had been there at the time). A peace gesture? But Richardson, with Papuan escort, had passed unmolested and Toxopeus had, with local aid, chased butterflies in the clearing. This PM the locals brought in a number of butterflies, for T--they were tightly
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wrapped in a leaf and of course crumpled, rubbed and spoiled. Teerink decided, in view of the-trouble unrest amongst natives today and trouble yesterday with evicting natives and children, to delay his trip to Habbema. Hunting in forest, small birds fairly common but faint cries or silent and difficult to find. Rhyp brachyhyncha? Squeaked up an all black rhypidura in undergrowth. October 14th. Overcast most AM with sun through at times--hard rainoff and on in PM and even- ing. Hunted down trail a ways, then up spur to ridge and up and down it a ways and so back to camp arcoss pandanus and forest hollow. A garden clearing on ridge with burned native hut. Strange "garden" clearing, undergrowth and substage cut in forest apparently for pandanus. An excellent day for me--every one adds a few things, 30 specimens of 20 species--10 new for camp-- and Anocibla? sclateri from traps, hitherto known only from SE New Guinea. Natives friendly today--several men brought the same young Rhip. albolanthus wanting a shell for it--I refused two cigarettes for it. Found in garden clearing by burned house a fresh spray of Rhododendron--took a few flowersback to Brass who hadn't found it flowering, so sent boys back for it this PM--an empty match box in clearing by spray of flowers apparently picked up and saved by native. Yesterday Brass found owl roost under mossy bank and brought back 2 skulls of Pseudocheirus and 1 skull Melepotes? from amongst old and new fragments of pellets, some quite fresh, and a feather. October 15th. Dull AM--hot sun midday and early PM--hard rain tonight. Doctor arrived from Habbema about 11--all 0.K. there--has been dull and overcast
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but little rain since we left on the 10th. AM-hunting, ridge to the south. From one or two trees, close together where a mixed party of birds flocked, I shot... Daphaenositta (3) Sericornis prep. persp (2) " perspicillata (1) Pachycephala schlegeli (2) Neopsittacus alpinis Neopsittacus muschenbroekii All except Sericornis are high in the tree tops. saw...Melidectes leuco sev. Astroynia (1) Gerygone cineria sev. Rhip. albo? Hunting farther up ridge produced little. Several times Rhip. albo., one of the commonest birds of the forest- and Meli- dectes leuco.- once a solitary Chalcites ruficollis high in the tree tops- and one solitary Rhip. north?-then a party of several Rhip. albo.-several Sericornis pep.-, one at least Sericornis nouhuysi- one Paramythia and one Melidectes leuco. came by-this the birds for the morning-I returned 11 AM- flocking apparently important. In PM up to look at owl shelter of Brass--in a cavity under roots of tree on top of hill. A few owl feathers Tyto tembrocora? and many old remains of owl m meals, the most common, Pseudocheirus, some very old, hidden in moss, some pellets not yet broken up but none recent. Apparently same species and same habits as Mt. Wilhelmina owl. Natives friendly and leave at night without trouble. October 16th. A bright clear day-uncomfortably hot in tents and flies at midday--clouding up late PM but no rain.
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Hunting up track to 3000 meter pass which is an outpost of the forest edge ef and pass of Habbema; the same forest-edge rhododendrons, yellow-seeded sedge and short grass competed, but no birds in it. One small dull Phascogale running rat-like from one tussock of moss to another in open. At 2900 meters sitting quietly saw a white-eared Phascogale climbing up trunk of tree and on to limb 25 feet up when I shot it. Climacteris at meters-a pair-of-these-birds 2900,meters a pair of these birds creeping around on trunks and large limbs--always head up--did not touch tail to trunk a s condition of tail shows. Natives Not many today--friendly. Doctor got hair samples by giving one of his own in exchange so they wouldn't suspect Pouri-pouri. At Habbema he got blood samples. Only 3 or 4 natives here tonight. Camp bugler on duty now. We are camped here in the midst of pandanus belt. Though growing in the forest, each tree is owned and a rude effort at giving them a better start is made by ring-barking some of the forest trees about them so the trees die and the pan- danus get the light. We've had to be careful about cutting pandanus or break- ing them by felling trees. They are well worth cultivating too as we know from our experience with the tree in SE New Guinea Mts. They could well be called the cocnut of the mountains. Their nuts--for which they are cultivated--are delic- ious fresh, and when dried by cutting up clusters and putting it in front of house even better. Brass is very anxious to get ripe fruit, both for specimens and to send to Dr. Fairchild to be grown in Florida. The season is not right for seeds but we hope to get them through natives. Marcus, an old time bird of paradise hunter moving into the country at Hollandia is one of our mainstays in "talking"to the natives bush people and we get him to tell them just what is wanted. He seemed to put over the idea fairly well but that he didn't realise what was wanted was evident when later he told W.B.R. that if we wanted pandanus we should go to his place in Hollandia where we could get all we wanted for[illegible]
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nothing and anyway these so-called pandanus of the mountains weren't really pandanus--they grew on the coast. And if we were there we could cut down all we wanted to. It is true that there are pandanus in abundance on the coast, but when Marcus tasted the nuts of this interior species, he chose to agree that even in his village they're nothing like them. October 17th Bright sun all am, very few scattered clouds, clouded up by mid PM, rain 4.30. Hunted over to garden clearing and house to N. October 18th. Wake to rain on the roof, let up about 8 and had rain mid-afternoon and overcast all day. Hunted down to where track crosses stream--boys hunted down there too--2700 m or le less. The forest changes to stream in the moss?, the vast amount of down timber and "2nd growth" which is present. Many small birds in 2nd growth, Serricornis nouhuyssi, S perapicellata and many unidentified. Somewhat easier forest to hunt. Near stream same typed moss forest with dense 20-40' substage, able to walk about through woody stems and ferns. The vast amount of 2nd growth about 2700 meters, over areas where trees have fallen is worthy of note. October 19th. Sunny AM and hard rain mid PM; clouds and sun late PM. Rain 8.30. Hunted ridge to NW, boys down track. (Only one bird, an adult ♂ Astreagus.) Toxopeus down to first shelter 2700 m. and many common birds but 1 Oreoshuttus. By transport from Habbema collecting supplies and equipment. Confusion in camp with
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Dyaks, soldiers and Papuans. Difficult to control such a camp where you have no authority over soldiers. Saw a case today which could have caused trouble. Trying to stop trading all through camp, urging soldiers and convicts to stop trading--instead of stopping trading, soldiers urged Papuans to pensar? and one Papuan disregarding the order, a soldier seized his pay from him--I interfered at once and so arrested trouble but that sort of thing may have serious consequences. 27 carriers returned to Habbema with many Papuans (none came down today). Many natives in camp, selling sweet potatoes chiefly--had a pig they tried to sell for 10 shells--also yesterday. Cornelius bought one pig the other day for 7. October 20th. Dull all day--very rare bits of sunshine. Rain off and on after 11. Hunting up ridge to East past house, to lower stunted Rhododendron, much moss--predominant tree still sama. Very few birds. Boys down to 2700 m and got Puechedyms, Azina and Chemoryna, stomach very thin-walled. Teerink arrived with escort and native (11) transport, paying last 1 shell when they start, 1 when they finish. Had some trouble with one convict who has been sick and refused to carry so went back to Habbema with Doctor who will be down tomorrow. Many Papuans about, selling sweet potatoes and bananas--no rats, ten small birds. Richardson only 2 mammals today in more than 400 traps. October 21st. Doctor came down from Habbema, all OK and in best of spirits. Teerink anxious to get on to next camp. Tried to find our position in air photos and I think successfully. Choosing next camp from air photo on the point of land SE of valley which forms its SE edge where it enters Grand Valley. Many natives with sweet potatoes and bananas and 2 small very common birds. Put
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into effect the practice of buying everything for one shell and hope it gets results. Papuan showed me a set dead-fall and how it works today; ratehr a crude release October 22nd. Dull and fine rain early, clearing about 8 AM. Bright and sunny then until mid- PM but no rain until 8.30. Hunting down to a little forest stream--birds very scarce. Boys down there too and also found birds very scarce. Tozopeus to river below where he saw what he called a Misticulla flava with grey back. Big transport from Habbema--my boots went up to be fixed and nailed. One soldier very sick with malaria. Teerink wants to go in search of new camp on 25th so I suppose & I'll have to be ready to go with him. Tyto This PM up to owl cave Brass found. Owl has been there once since I last visited it a week or so ago--1 pellet there. The feathers fuscus, with whit spot near tip, almost surely same as owl of Wilhelmina.and of natives net bags here. Bought such a bag net bag yesterday with the owls feet as well as many feathers attached. October 23rd. Bright and sunny most of day, clouding up with thunder late PM and a few sprinkles of rain. Hunting rdige to N today; saw black and white bat? Started pickle tin today. Amongst others a Daphrosites--1 of 3 creeping along branches at top of trees. Natives brought many common things--all bought for 1 shell apiece, October 24th. Bright day. Up to 3000 m. Hazy and dead timber patches.
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October 25th. Bright AM and PM--light rain 9 PM: Brass and Teerink got away 7 AM. Brass 3 Dyaks carriers and 1 boy--Teerink 2 earr- iers convicts, 8 police, 3 carriers with five days food to look for next camp. I'm staying to carry on radio argument with R.A. Few birds in forest today--down ridge to N. Papuans brought in many birds things. October 26th. Dull most of day--a little sunlight through clouds with short rain mid-afternoon clear tonight and chilly. Got the black and white long tailed bird I've hunted for 4 days--and it turns out to be breeding albististic Astymia, probably with nest and eggs. What an oppor- tunity lost. Natives brought in many things today-- a shell for most things but 2 or 3 of more common for one shell and refusing Melinata and Melidictes. As usual, a few men bringing in most of the things. Phascogale, white-eared. Today in the forest I watched one# for some time (chiefly glasses at 65 yards), perhaps 10 minutes, about 10 AM. It was apparently searching for food on the moss covered trunks and branches of second stage trees 10-35' up, in good forest. A very active beast, it usually worked its way slowly up a trunk and along branches, poking its nose here and there into the moss, continually keeping its tail close to trunk. The upper or under side of branches made no difference to it and it would frequently run along the underside. Frequently on smaller limbs it jumped from one to another as nimble as a squirrel. To get from one tree to another it would run down tree head first very quickly, to where it could cross in undergrowth. Much of the time it progressed very slowly, exploring the m moss. The tail was kept in line with body close to trunks and when sitting on bran- branch the tail hung free, it curved it forward, the white tip making this con-
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spicious. Once it sat up for some moments licking its hands and "washing its face" by rubbing its hands over its muzzle. My attention was first called to this beast by idly watching a friendly Flycatcher which was playing about near it. During the whole time I watched it, this flycatcher was never far away, 3-5', not scolding or excited but just friendly as when near any of the birds with which it so frequently consorts. October 27th. Dull early, bright sun late AM and PM. Hunting up ridge to north to patch of dead timber, which we can see from # 3000m place on track--few birds. Very few natives today and brought only a few kinds. October 28th. Bright sun until 4 PM when it clouded up--rain tonight at dusk. Hunting ridge and stream to north--birds few. scarce. Toxopeus went down and picked out camp site for his intermediate camp, Nov. 1st- 9th at confluence of two streams at 2300 m. Two hours from here, edge of moss. A few natives about, with a few birds. Toxopeus, ea at 2300 m., met a boy with a bird on his way up here. October 29th. Sun and clouds AM, clouding up at noon with slight showers of rain late PM and evening. Brass and Teerink arrived back this AM. Had been to end of this valley and into one to north south. Natives all very friendly. Brass found only two suitable camp sites, the one Toxopeus found and one about 5 hours from here and just behind "Old One Eye's" village. By the river, in grass country.
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October 30th. Overcast most of AM with occasional sun; cloudy and occasional showers in PM-- real wet-season rains. Down with Versteeg to see birds nest he found yesterday--as so often happens, no bird and egg cold. Went on down"river" which is our stream here swollen by a few tributaries, where through it cuts through sandstone--landslips both sides 50-100 feet high; violets on lime soil, ferns and small sedge on on some of slips and 2nd growth shrub- bery--other slip has been in existence a long time. (Photos) Boy fell in stream and got camera wet. Track turns right at second Papuan hut and crosses ridges through good gama forest, fairly mossy. Many Papuans in camp; brought in about 75 birds, most of them parrots-- a few good things. Saw few birds today. Anosichla incesta: one hopping? across trail under a big log and out other side where I shot it (2800 m) Loria hirca: One flew into middle of forest tree; distinguished by short tail and hopped 28' up tree before I could shoot it. Coracina longicauda Treed a party of 4, as is the usually the case and fairly common here. Live in tops of tall trees; rather active, silly looking, abruptly turning head ??? then hopping or flying to another perch. Suddenly one calls tch-eseu, a loud long cry and the others take it up and repeat it a number of times. Frequently too a sharper, two-note call tsheu-tsheu. Wichardson up to Habbema to get A.W.A. radio to replace burned out, built out up set--returned shortly after noon. Made schedule all OK this PM. October 31st. Sun and clouds AM--hot noon**clouding up about 3 PM.
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November 1, 1938 Dull A.M. with occasional rain - sun for a bit noon - dull and occasionally light showers this PM. Didn't go out but Dyaks out for a short time near camp and shot two new birds - Pomarcopsis and Clytoryas and Toxopeus out for half hour or so and short a few birds. Carriers returned mid-afternoon - not from Teerink reporting all OK - 20 or so Papuans returned ahead of carriers and sleeping near - prob- ably carry in AM. Papuans brought in a few birds. Radio went out this evening during transmission. November 2, 1938. Sun early - mist came in from valley covering hills - rain here ll - heavy - dull PM Hunting up ridge to south to house and hole in forest above where I took a few photos. Boys and house below - Toxopeus to river 2600 m. Transport got away about 7 - about 48 Papuans carried - to be paid on other end though some wanted to be paid on this end - this latter group led by "one-eye" - Gira started first with his men without trouble. Radio seems to be completely out - Richardson working on it and tonight Ramm gave him instructions on what to do for it. Papuans brought very few birds. November 3, 1938 Mist on hills - then a little sun early but soon clouded - rain and mist AM - showers PM. Hunting up to 3100 m (approx.)
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Carriers and some Papuans back. A few birds by Papuans. November 4, 1938. Mist on hills early - and again mid-morning with a few sprinkles - a bit of sun noon then clouding up and light showers - hunting through Garden clearing below ravine across ridge and along ridge. Daphaenositta. A party of eight to twelve feeding branches of tallest forest trees - after ten minutes or so whole flock flew off with little calls. Transport got away about 7 with 37 Papuans carrying and eleven Papuans went down unescorted this PM. Toxopeus tells me he plans to have all the specimens his assistant coll- ected on Idenburg sent in to the Grand Valley. He will go to river with Kapt. on 11th, repack the specimens, then send them out on second flight and return to 2300 meter camp on 22nd or so - Damned fool -- November 5, 1938. Bright, hot AM - clouding up noon with light showers PM and rain this evening. Hunting up to 3000 on track. Birds fairly common but nothing of special interest. Six carriers and five soldiers from Habbema. Carriers returned from below - many Papuans in camp PM - including a party returning from over the range bringing a a young pipit and a dutch banded Mallomys - the soldiers this AM said no Papuans at Habbema yesterday or today. Only a few birds from Papuans today. Today at dinner Toxopeus' produced a bottle of brandy!!! and we talked of crocodiles and catching them, of lizards of New Guinea that walk upright like a man, and flying
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lizards, and snakes that fly, and then frogs that push off, spread their feet and sail to the next branch --s truth how Adamson would have looked! November 6, 1938. Dull AM -- occasional bursts of sun - rain by 10 and rain this PM. Bright moon through clouds and Papuans singing in house across the way. W.B.R. and Toxopeus away at seven - just Brass and me left - thirty odd Papuans carried - more came in this noon and PM. "One- eye" brought several "rats" - and after receiving pay "gave" me tins potatoes. I gave him two cigarettes. He sat down and smashed one - then fished in his bag and brought out an Echidna skull - with a tremendous long beak - paid a shell for it. Other natives brought in a number of things, including two fishes from ? --probably they are new. No lamps tonight - only candles and guard rather active with flash- light. Spent day in camp - writing in AM - to van Mook amongst others - and drying birds in oven and turning them. But this PM with birds and rats busy - About 2 PM heard the broken trill of white-eyed Gerygone and went down to edge of clearing where from mixed flock shot: 4 Erythripes (feeding on -- fruits) 3 Gerygone white eye ) 1 Microeca pep. ) top of fruit trees 1 Preslorhynchies ) and saw Rhip. albo-- and heard Pach. schlegeli singing - one song is chit chut wet-cut-che vet chut che chut chut quite loud and full - often heard here - and two Neopsittacus pullicauda feeding
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probably on fruits as Erytrura - which I've often found in their stomachs. November 7, 1938. Dull AM - a very little sun - some heavy rain this afternoon and tonight. Transport returned - note from Richardson and a few common birds from below- and a young Astruzia - just full grown - from near camp. That pair had finished breeding. Natives brought very few things today, though a few in camp - a few sweet potatoes - packing for Habbema - specimens. November 8, 1938 Dull AM - occasional sprinkles - burst of sun noon - mist on hill and heavy rain late PM and tonight. Hunting down to 2600 m. river to look at nest - egg gone - Transport got away (see separate sheet) and more Papuans than we had loads for - so sent a few (five loads) of our things by Papuans. Dyaks returned from Habbema about 4 PM instead of 5 kg. of paper asked for they brought back two bales (36 kg.) A few Papuans in camp all day. Only one bird offered - a young (nestling) Melipetes) and very few sweet potatoes - none of which purchased. November 9, 1938 Dull early, then hot sun alternating with showers. Finished packing - A few Papuans in with sweet potatoes - five sleeping here tonight. Ramm did not call on radio tonight - last night he did not call us - but
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we overheard him tell Beyzoni that plane was in Macassar and expected back on tenth - first time we'd known of its going. Only tent and kitchen to pack in AM! November 10, 1938. A fine hot day - some clouds - but rain in PM - Came down from 2800 to 2200 meters - Richardson had assortment of perhaps 100 birds natives had brought in since sixth when he came down - more skins - no radio call here and overheard Ramm tell Beyzoni no news from plane. November 11, 1938 Dull most of day with rain PM. Teerink left about seven with Dr. and Toxopeus. I skinned more of the accumulation of birds in AM - loafed in PM Radio overheard tell Beyzoni plane in Amboins. November 12, 1938 Sunny occasional clouds AM - light rain late Pm (about 400). Hunting along main track NE but natives so plentiful and pestiferous that in desperation finally plunged down hill into forest and moved long way back. Many Papuans outside fence beckoning to bring sweet potatoes - bringing many rats and a few birds. Richardson & Sergeant doing all the buying. Today trouble with natives. Cornelius, bathing in stream (according to his tale) turned his back several times on Papuans who offered him bananas. And looked up just in time to see a rock being hurled at him. The other was at the gate - an old pest who insists on bringing wood to the kitchen. He tried to force a way past the guard - a scuffle over
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the wood - the guard flourished his sword, the Papuan picked up a sizeable rock and I intervened - the Papuan sent for his bow, arrow and axe. Bruise on soldiers hand and scratched on natives legs -- !!! Several natives trying to sell wood and getting nasty about it. Hunting in forest saw both σ and ♀ Myzemela.rosenbergi feeding about low flowering tree. [illegible] Ptenoleplera ♀ - probably with nest and eggs or yg. Some of Papuans who went out with Teerink returned mid-morning. November 13, 1938. Light rain withxaidAM until mid AM - then clouds and sun rest of day with occasional hard showers. Hunting up east of river - along stream to site of old bridge, then up the steep hillside on a faint track to the main one along hills- this near north end of forest track - only 10 minutes or less to other side where look over the well cultivated hills of "One Eye's" village area. Birds fairly common but I had an off day's shooting: Rhip. albolimbata Common Melipotes Common single Oreonis Common - flowering trees in substage & treetops Neopsittacus muschen. Five or six in top tall tree Coracina longicauda A part of 3 passing through tops of tall forest trees Many trees flowering and fruiting. Many natives about as usual - brought a few varied species of birds - and many rats. Dyaks fixing fence and squabbles over lawyer cane the natives want to sell - all refused. A display of improvised spears on part of natives and sword waving on
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part of soldiers - whose inception I didn't see. On the part of only one or two natives - evidently so serious as one of the policemen re- peatedly motioned him away, even when he was standing on other side of creek with spear leveled at camp. No trouble with fire wood today. Richardson couldn't get Ramm tonight and his information based on de- duction from Beyzoni's replies that Ramm using a small transmitter and plane has returned. Today coming down past houses a woman alone? saw me at thirty yards and went away into the tall grass like a startled quail - But yesterday on using trail a man and two females passed me - women went quickly by with averted faces. November 14, 1938. To Habbema - 8 hours for carriers on track. 1 plus hours to head of cultivation 1 hour to first rest place, where track breaks 1 hour to third house 1.5 hour to 2800 meter camp 11.30 AM, lunch & left at 1 PM 1 hour .. .. 1 hour top of timber 1.5 hour Habbema. This is carrier time including ten minute rests in every sixty minutes - times only approximate really slightly under. Left about 7.05 arrived 4.85 more or less. Good day except for showers midday - at times big clouds and sunshine. Good view of Grand Valley in spots, though clouds drifting around in it. Amazingly large areas of perfectly level yellowish grass plains and green swamp. Bele Valley, upper end, appears to be a series of small valleys and ridges in bottoms of rich valley.
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November 15, 1938. Heavy fog over lake clearing 8-9 and a light easterly wind shortly after. Plane came in about 10 -- having left RA and radio transmitter on G. R. - also 3200 kg food and supplies and two people - Took out specimens and left flat iron, chocolate, pressure cooker and note books and iron bread mixer. Asked them to get advice on boy with [illegible] dysentary. November 16, 1938. Dull, overcast - but breaking overhead - easterly wind mid AM. Plane took out one half group material. Said advice from Dr. to take out sick boy - keeping him until tomorrow in hopes he'll be better as he's my good gun boy. Much snow and Wilhelmina - an all mountain mass - down to 9300 m. or so - also on cliff in front of Mt. - photos. Plane brought mail and radio transmitter. November 17, 1938. Heavy fog on lake but west wind at dawn - dull and rainy all day - only a few small breaks early. Strange the involuntary refusal of my throat to swallow corned beef - an effort to swallow it though it agrees with me and I feel fit enough. As Finlayson writes - an effort to swallow enough corned beef and damper to keep up strength. Sick boy apparently strong but definitely much slime and blood in stools - must send him out.
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November 18, 1938 No fog on lake. Bright sunny AM with westerly winds. Clouds coming up to SW. Wilhelmina, creeping around it and disappearing into thin air. The local wind means little here - Rain and hail at noon as crossed to North and all PM in moss forest. Plane came in about 9.30 - loaded the last (200 kg or so) of group material in it and my gun boy. All reserve food is now in - and to- morrow will bring one-half December food to Grand Valley. On 20th all December food to Idenburg. Then going to Sydney to see about automatic pilot - Next flight inland about December 4. Rogers says Dutch b----- and RA thinks we may not want to stay long in Grand Valley. Rogers also says up to date (including today) have flown 46 trips inland and average of 3300 kg per trip - total 333,000 lb.! Rogers apparently having some trouble with Mielkie and they don't get on together. RA going back to Hollandia tomorrow. New house is under way with 113 steps. November 19, 1938. To Bele River. Bright beautiful AM. November 20, 1938 Sunny AM. Lighy rain PM. Hunting to west - pandanus and forest. This PM just before dusk a youth alleging that a soldier had had intercourse with a woman just across the stream.
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November 22, 1938. Bright AM - dull and light rain in PM. Clear tonight. Up ridge across river after a fruitless chase for two ducks I never saw and along main track to gard on pt. - delightful visit with nice old man - beautiful view to Balim. Cornelius says since can't put all birds in box to put in good ones and leave small ones out. November 23, 1938. Bright AM - dull early PM then sun - no rain today. Teerink should have left Grand Valley today. Plane P.M. to Sydney 5.15 AM - 4.15 PM Hunting with as yesterday but I went straight up ridge - dif- ficult country - much cane and bamboo high, rather slender forest - ground leaf or so moss covered open substage much light to ground - dense undergrowth in places - but broken - pandanus as always. November 24, 1938. Bright AM until noon, when light rain aff and on PM and evening. Hunting down track through forest to first village and garden, then boy met me with note from Richardson of nest and a big circle on hill through forest to trap line where watched and collected Phytorscopus nest then straight back to camp about 1 PM. Laphonia. While watching P. nest a Superbe came into top of tall forest tree on slope below me - and went through a few motions as though begin- ing a dance - perched across branch, body - bent head - and raised cape and made a few bobbing motions. Saw a native shooting shelter by water caught in cavity in fallen tree
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trunk. Birds came to bathe and natives shoot them. One a single dome of bent branches - very open - other with tube of bark on branch on which birds perch, and wad of moss to stop arrow - three feet from end of tube to wad of moss - bird not much chance if it comes. November 25, 1938. Five AM - light rain PM and evening. Hunting up ridge to south. Teerink and Toxopeus returned today. Three days from here to camp. Toxopeus has some idea of working new lake at once. Spent a long time trying to get a pair Syma calling in tops of tall forest trees an top of ridge - saw them once. November 26, 1938. Dull AM - clouds on hills - rain PM and evening Natives brought a number of specimens - including a Megalorius almost certainly from Habema - no other birds from there but shrimps from the Wamena (?) November 27, 1938. Fine most all day today - a little shower about 4 PM and cloudy evening - by five here mean heavy broken clouds and sun as it usually is. Hunting along track to NE - onto new clearing for garden with only undergrowth cut and into second growth - past sink holes. Natives brought a few things - they're very quiet now - Tried to get Toxopeus to put help in kitchen - Usual counter attack this time regarding Beyzoni and van Arken on Idenburg and this new boy who
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apparently refused duty there. Must ask Teerink. November 28, 1938. Sun and clouds until three when clouded up and thunder only a little rain but thunder and lightning this PM - have had thunder frequently last month. Hunting ridge to NE nothing of especial interest - block- adied village - two usual houses and one rect. house a unit - with a fence and a few banana trees. This P.M. to see nest of Sericornis nouhuysi. Richardson found this AM a flank shaped structure on its side nestled amongst the leaves of a young pandanus top - three feet above ground in forest mixed heavy substage and undergrowth - in a place where fairly heavy substage, open below, ground leaf littered - Bird left nest as I approached - hid and watched some time until it returned - then flushed it from nest - went off and away low over ground before I could shoot it - waited until it returned again and shot it - ? - on way to nest. While there - a Paridagala flying about, low, with a curious rattling of wings - recalling a pigeon - but more rattling of quills - only short flights, then sitting quietly - only glimpsed it but think it this sp. November 29, 1938. Sun and clouds AM - light rain off and on from about 11.30. Hunting to NE. Kingfisher (Syma) calling as usual - saw two green finches and two parties of four-five Malurus edge of grass and into shrubbery where they disappeared. Artamis as usual soaring over edge of ridge - saw one attempting coition - three perched side by side and one with fluttering wings trying to mount other but it not willing and left followed by other. Natives bring many rats but few birds.
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November 30, 1938. Sun and clouds early - rain by 11 AM - and dull rainy PM - hill sides get slippery very quickly after rain. Hunting forest and into edge of high garden to west of gorge below camp. Saw one Paradegalla moving about lower part of crown of forest tree - black with white appearing wattle very conspicuous. Noted today that call of Syma and Cacomantis very similar - Boy spent all AM getting former and I waited one half hour edge of forest for pair of cuckoos to come to edge - though I thought they would be king- fishers. Beautiful forest 70-125 ft. trees fairly close ramping canopy overhead - tall, fairly open undergrowth of shrubs, mossy things and ferns - a little lawyer cane - ground leaf covered - But then out into low dense shrubbery, bracken and ground inclined on steep slope above river where difficult to forge a way - limestone show- ing in a few places.
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December 1, 1938 Light rain from dawn until about eight - then sun and clouds until midafternoon - when rain again (light) off and on. December 2, 1938 Dull early but clearing about 8 AM - and sun and clouds until 5 PM when clouded in - no rain all day. Hunting ridge to NE with poor results Richardson refused to pay native who tended his traps this AM before he went out. December 3, 1938 Five AM - rain PM Up to Swift cave with W.B.R. Teerink and carriers arrived about 10.45 Everything quiet in Grand Valley. Reports that he fired one shot to keep natives quiet on second days stage. Has found better trail lower down - 16 hours in all including one for crossing Wamena. Chat with RA over radio. He's not coming to Grand Valley. December 4, 1938. Fine hot sunny AM - rain PM Teerink [illegible] General Berenschot order R.A. to photograph lower part of Grand Valley. December 5, 1938. Sunny and clouds - five AM - rain about two -
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Left camp about 7 AM and five hours later found ourselves at 2200 m. camp - near end of valley. Many Papuans - things to sell - feather ornaments - Chamonygra - bright place - Ptendeplex, Astropia.... December 11, 1938. Fine sunny AM, strong SE wind sprang up mid AM. Down river to past bridge and across stream, past gardens to a little village, then inland and across stream (called Ait according to Brass) and forest patch on slope of hill - back by way of gallery forest. Almost all of land except forest patch has been cultivated. Gallinago. Flushed one from tall grass, wet swale apparently same as Habbema form. Gray flying hawk. Broad wings and short tail - ashy above - earthy below - saw it twice - flushed from casuarina tree. December 12, 1938. Fine AM - rain early PM - clearing later but no sun PM. Up gallery forest and onto brush patches on hillside just east of split. Teerink cut trees along river today. December 13, 1938. Sun and clouds AM, light rain mid PM and evening. Up river along bank. December 16, 1938. Dull all day - slight rain early PM - hunting up hill to top of
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marsh - Dyak killed a pig with a knife today - paid 11 shells - Sow tried to chase me out of village - rather successfully too - Saw three Ieracidae - broken whistling call and play - over hillside. River rising all day - nearly to top of bank - falling slightly 9 PM. Radio news plane on way back. December 17, 1938. Clear most of AM - dark and sprinkle of rain this PM The plane came in ! First visited Idenburg leaving 2700 kg food - then here and return Hollandia with Amat, Cornelius and seven soldiers and one convict - the least fit of the lot - Will start taking us out tomorrow. Fuel is on Idenburg. Natives took all very quietly - some December 18, 1938. Beautiful clear day - many big clouds lates PM - rain evening though stars still showing in places. Strong SE about noon. Plane three flights - 15, 20 and 15 men. See huts. Plane dragged anchor and barked tree in wind. Small fruit bats in fig tree in camp at night. Mail today - 1 letter December 30, 1938. Material ready for shipment on boat of tomorrow.
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Eleven cases containing 3000 (approx.) birds, 2500 (approx. mammals and about 500 reptiles and amphibians with following mark: AMNH NEW YORK and numbered 1-11 - to be insured for $20,000.00. and three cases plant materials containing 3000 numbers and 15,000 sheets with address (as below) and numbered 1-3 - to be insured for $20,000 - ARNOLD ARBORETUM JAMAICA PLAINS BOSTON USA
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January 3rd. No second flight was made yesterday so it was not until today that we, Brass, Richardson and I, with four boys returned inland to Idenburg--see notes for flight in small note book. Approaching Idenburg range, which had its foot hidden in a 500 m high bank of cloud--rest clear--cloud bank dense. Two or three times we came down through it blind, almost to tree tops--rain and mist--then found a hole and located camp. Did little today--rainy, clouds, hot and enervating. Only 50 yards or so of vegetation dry. Up creek a little ways in PM, saw a short tailed, medium sized Chaetura?, dark below. 6 or 8 over creek , give a little chattering call. Soldiers sleeping in preparation shelter. January 4th. Rainy off and on, light rain, that is. Couldn't see top of range. Packing--full week's rations. When short of anything, left it out of February stores, but enough for February and March, I think. Heavy stores here to be sent up to 2000 and 1200 meter camps as opportunity offers. Water a little lighter. January 5th. Could see range for most of day, clouds high. A little packing. Leaving in AM. Teerink may return tomorrow; evidently not going to Macassar. January 6th. Idenburg to 1200 meter camp, 7 AM-2PM. We were about 600 m. at little clearing when plane came in.
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January 7th. 1200 m. camp to 1800 m camp which, Van Arken says,is 15 km. SW Bernhard Camp. My barometer says 1760 tonight. Travelled 6.30-3.45, one hour for lunch. Dull AM with occasional sun. In PM mist and rain and occasional sun, in broken cloud belt. January 8th. Altitude at 8 AM, 1740. In camp except for short walk down trail before lunch when I shot 4 birds. Rain in AM, drying* to drizzle since AM--in parts of PM almost no mist and towards evening caught a glimpse of Idenburg, Bats about from shortly before dark.Several birds during day, 8-12 pigeons, C. albtrtisi? passing low over ridge and heard before dark several lorries to ridge back of camp. Carriers returned to Idenburg. Report Idenburg still rising and only dining room out of water. Plane not going to Macassar until end of month. January 9th. First day in field. An hour or so on trail along ridge top in AM and in PM 1/2 hour on ridge top to north. A little shower at daylight--good sunny AM. Mist in early PM then sun and clear tonight, though occasionally a little cloud drifts across. January 10th. Rqin last night and again tonight but clwar today. Looking over Idenburg see only clouds below. Hunting down ridge to end, across stream, up to trail to northeast and back. Birds rather scarce and shy except a few common species. Plane left in PM today. Last night a cuscus crawling on Van Arken's tent poles, whence a soldier knocked
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it with flat of his sword. I shot at a gleaming eye in tree edge of forest camp last night and while I thought I heard it (what)fall, I could find nothing. January 11th. An hour or so along trail towards west along top of ridge. Toxopeus intended to go to 2200 m. with Van Arken today but dull weather and clouds drifting across prevented, Clouds below completely fill Meervlacht and many wash hills to south; occasional sun and then hot. Ridge top narrow, in places only 10 yards wide and in others 50-100; mossy forest. Many of trees 40-60 feet, slender with moss covered trunks. Here and there trees of 80-100 feet, spreading crown, branches heavily moss draped. Ground everywhere covered with moss, springing from roots below. Much fallen timber, moss covered and apparently rots slowly here. Rather dense stand of small trees makes it difficult to see to tops of large ones. Small pandanus are scattered through, also low palms; ferns fairly common. Once off ridge tops of some ginger. January 13th. Back along trail ½ hour in AM--in PM across face of ridge to north and then up to 1900 meters and back. Birds scarce in AM except some common species. No real rain today--sun and mist--but hard rain last night. Toxopeus had excellent moth collecting last night--80 species, practically 140 individuals. Today in forest saw again [illegible] a big black and yellow Ornithoptera. Two species of bats fly commonly over clearing. A small one about tree tops and a larger, low-flying species. Toxopeus caught one of the latter at the lamp. The night before it had been carrying off moths from the light.
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January 14th. Fine AM with clouds coming in noon--hard rain afternoon fine--first we've had in daytime. Hunting down from camp along stream. Birds fairly common of the few common species. January 16th. Mist closed in early here, 8.30 or so; continued rain and some wind tonight. Brass, Richardson, Teerink, Van Arken and I went up to 2240 m. ridge top--clouds around Idenburg plains and in all valleys inland. Didn't close 2150 m. camp until nearly noon. Doctor down with fever--only man sick. Felt wretched tonight, chill in wet clothes, didn't change. January 17th. Fairly good AM but clouds cover Idenburg plains and clouds in valleys inland. Mist much of midday--clear night and toward evening can see silvery winding of Idenburg back along track ½ hour. Transport arrived from below. 1/3 our February food -?-?-; to go on to 2150 m. tomorrow with Van Arken; will make camp there. B.L. going up on 20th and return 26th; then to 1600 m. *?*?* below. Willtake one of my boys--he'll leave his 2 boys at 2150 m. while we're there. Military party fixing road ahead today. Teerink figuring on transport 1200 m. and 2150 m. camps. January 18th. Off color today. January 19th. Good visibility. Van Arken reported from 2150 he could see Mt. Wilhelmina, but mist enclosed camp and hard rain and wind tonight.
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Hunting below camp; two pairs of -?- -?- and one Sericornis nuyhuysi and one Charmoyna, always silent. Toxopeus up and Doctor down tomorrow. Toxopeus camera doesn't work except at 1/100. January 20th. Didn't see Idenburg all day. In AM clear here and ridge so but clouds filling valleys--went mid AM. Rain PM and hard rain tonight--a little wind. Thunder and lightning tonight but not around here. Doctor left for Idenburg 7 AM. B.L. left for 2150 m. 10 AM instead of 8 AM. he'd planned. Left his packing until this AM. Now only three of us and Teerink. His tent leaked in rain of last night, dried out more or less today and is leaking again tongith. Have requested one more 9 x 9 tent for him, the one from Habbema. Birds along track, a pair of Myrminetta, ♀ and ♂, one head down and one head up, clinging to top of dead stump, 5 or 10 meters. Examined stomach contents and put in pickle. January 31st. Mist in camp at daylight--ready and about 8 AM started for 2150 meter camp. Travelled slowly--at 2150 m. about 12.30. Sun here and a small view, soon in clouds, but this is near top of cloud belt here and even when enclosed in mist the haze above is usually so thin that the sun beats down hot through it. Part of the last 1/4 mile of track, climbing at 70-80 degrees through and under the roots of the trees is like a tunnel for 20 yards. Big roots and stems clamber up, with big roots heavily moss covered, overhead.
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February 2, 1939. Clouds low over mountain top inland and gray at 6 AM but 7.30 or so very clear - saw Mt. Wilhelmina. Clouds cover Idenburg plain below. Some sun here mid AM and then hot mist PM - late PM see Idenburg plain through mist - no clouds over it. Hunting up track to top this AM. Birds fairly common - more so than 1800 meter camp - both variety and individuals. My boy (also Marcus with rats) came up from 1500 m. with four birds (Eog, Toxorhamphus novaeguinea and Poecilodryas cryptoleuca) - no rats new to the collection from Marcus. When up nearly to top of track heard dog in trap 100 yards or so away in forest. By time I was ready to go over it had stopped and Dyaks reported it had escaped as they came up to trap. Cornelius, beyond, heard it running howling through the forest. February 3, 1939. Mist low on mountains at daylight and Idenburg plain covered in mist closed in here mid AM - later light rain and late PM Idenburg clear of clouds but rain - a little rain in evening. Hunting up track. Richardson note from Teerink that he and Beyzoni? leaving for Idenburg today - B's foot not so bad as might be. Plane plans returning February 7th now. February 4, 1939. Fairly clear inland today though clouds hid Wilhelmina - clouds over most of Idenburg. Some sun until nearly noon here - Mist and clouds PM - see
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Idenburg River for while 4-5 PM though rain here. Hunting up track as usually - birds fairly common. On ridge about camp low dense shrubbery covering area approximately 150 x 200 yards - rest of country forested. Forest on ridge rather low - trees 40-60-70 feet - ground heavily mossed - aerial roots covered mosses - many slender things moss covered trunks - big trees - big clumps of moss on trunks and branches - near top of ridge fairly dense bamboo undergrowth and ground of course nearly bare - but tall trees typically mossy. A country of very steep ridges - drgins away quickly to Idenburg which through the decades has been wandering back and forth through the plain. Behind is the Soweri Valley into which we can look - its bottom about 500-1000 m. - six to eight miles long - has been garden - but upper part is now abandoned and coming back to forest - in the lower part is the pop- ulation and here this AM saw smoke rising from perhaps eight to ten communities. Water still rising in Idenburg. Transport from 1000 m. camp arrived there today - Teerink and B. L. arriving tomorrow. Guba flying PM today. Rogers walking about -- better. Archbold planning to observe hawk's nest at Hollandia. February 5, 1939. Clouds and rain on mountains inland but fairly good here all AM. Mists began to close in about noon - mist PM - no view of Idenburg. Wind and mist tonight. Had to take down flies. Hunting up track - the puzzling Pach. schlegeli relative most interesting. Message from Teerink-he and B.L. Idenburg water high - plane not before 8th.
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February 6, 1939. Idenburg partly open early - Cyclops and Gautier stand out - Inland only partly clear - rain and clouds on some high blocks land - Mt. Wilhelmina hidden some sun AM. By noon in clouds and continued all PM - no view. Hunting up track - saw and didn't get new birds in bamboo. Message RA Rogers may returning tomorrow and worrying about. February 7, 1939. Best day we've had here - some clouds in valleys inland and Mt. Wilhelm- ina hidden - part of Idenburg open- took a panorama - Some sun this PM - only little mist here though everything hidden in clouds in PM. Stars showing tonight. Biggest day here yet but little of importance. Birds fairly common in forest. Pach.schlegeli top of ridge in bamboo 4-5 or more noisy - Hop - - - or chop - - - as occasionally happens - shot two - this sp. - one a "hen feathered σ". Inspected Dyak snares - the piece of ratan is used - trip is stereotype except that fiber tied to two pegs in ground is pushed against by mammal - pulling down A, releasing B spring flies up pulling ratan noose tight against knot (6) of one end of ratan around upright. (THERE IS A SKETCH) Dyak said use a modification on stick for small rats - for food - and a flat noose for jungle forest. Plane returned today, with Nick - to Iden- burg 9th. No Macassar trip.
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February 8, 1939. Fairly clear inland with only a few clouds on a few ranges high over crests - part of Idenburg open - but filled with big billowing clouds - in clouds early AM mist until wind PM - Idenburg open tonight 5-6 PM. Hunting down ridge to west and found lories (Eos) - flush about fifteen feeding in top of big tree - shot one of them - one came back, then shot it, then flock back and shot one - fell dead to ground and two or three others at once came fluttering down and in a moment while flock ten or so came fluttering down into undergrowth - as though all shot - but very soon flew away through forest - later on ridge above shot several and later nearly one above - all females! Plane to come in tomorrow. Water in Idenburg into dining room - Teerink requests carriers back as soon as possible in case have to shift camp. A crocodile has been through camp. Watercloset overturned. February 9, 1939. First good day here (see small notebook). Plane came in about nine. Saw it leave and head for Hollandia. B.L. and frogs in his house - going to more camp - Last night V.A. saw 4-5 big fires down valley where papuan villages are - celebrating first fine night? February 10, 1939. And after such a fine day yesterday, today awoke to heavy rain on roof and followed by clouds and rain. But lightened to drizzle - Carriers arrived 7.30 - 8.00 and Brass and I
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left about nine. V. A. arranged transport very well - each soldier having charge of certain type cargo - Brass, Richardson, mine, flies, etc. and as each ready, left. Arrived 10.40 and soon began to clear - fine sunny PM-a rare phenomenon here. 37 carriers for us down - everything We were certainly fortunate in having no one hurt by falling tree - soldiers said it flattened one bed - dining-fly badly ripped by it and poles broken, sergeant said - Serg. Krutchen very helpful and obliging in working camp - comfortable for us. February 11, 1939. Left 1800 meter amp 7 AM (approx.- finished at same place as on trip up about 10.30 -11.45. Arrived 1620 meter camp about 2 PM. Brass, van Arcken and me and Richardson went on below and sent up flour, sugar, cheese and letters - none from Rheua - Christmas card M. Dwight - three Rinald and 1 E. Mayr. Good weather all day - trail south heavy but most down hill. Along sick third day of fever - no fever today but legs bad - a few other Dyaks sick but as whole traveled well - first in with ovens 18 kg - just behind us - Got big fly instead of tent - and 1/2 fly for kitchen. Dyaks sleeping under military fly - partly palm. Dyak sleeping in underwear with legs tied up to keep feet in and up to arm pits. Note above cream of tartar and floud and no soda - then soda and cream of tartar but no floud.
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February 14, 1939. A day of rest - Sunday and -?- -?- February 15, 1939. Hunting down track - 25 birds - 11 never collected - February 24, 1939. Dull and misty early - a little sun midday - dull, misty and a little rain in PM. On ridge just back of camp - waited until the occasional birds came by. Then watched a vaccinium for a while - also this PM Got four new birds today - and inthe four days I was away the boys got four new birds!
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March 8th. Rainy early, dull all day. Down along stream: Dalvadorina, Wagtails. Tringa hypoleuca--saw 2 singles. Grey crows--feeding on gravel banks. Pomeriopsis--3 at mouth of little tributary up which they went, none on main stream. Stream reminds me of the Palmer, above Black River Junction. March 9th. Dull AM and PM much mist. Occasionally a little sunshine about midday. Van Arken, Hulls and Schraeder returned bringing about 9 natives with them. Hulls saw about 100 natives in all--measured 27--average 1.50 against 1.60 for natives of Grand Valley. Bought a pup for R, purchased for 5 shells. 3 dogs came with Papuans and R got one for a big knife. Hunting forest near camp. Birds not especially common. A flower tree near camp with many charmoryna, charmonycopsis and myzamela in it, only in AM; none about in PM. March 10th. Party Papuans left just before party for Idenburg--one of their dogs howling late PM. near camp. Hard rain late PM and a small flood in early evening. Dull AM with [illegible] light rain, little sun. In AM spent time at *?*?* tree--boy up tree next it shot 25 birds of 6 species from it. Van Arken and Toxopeus staying here until 3rd when we will send down specimens.
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March 11th. Fine AM--sun--went out noon but fine PM, sun and shade. Hunting here and there near camp in forest; birds not especially common. Richardson off color this PM and Brass with bad stomach. March 12th. Fairly good, sun and shade, mostly latter, but little wind and only occasional light showers. Tried to instruct soldiers in seining but they prefer to catch fish in their hands. Hunting new trach, circling back to road to SW. Shot a streaked Phascogale on ground around roots of trees by track. 5 Papuans in camp with 4 dogs--traded 2 for one axe and one knife. Met 3 on track. Boys hunting across ridge. V.A. and B.L. going to Idenburg tomorrow--report is water still rising. March 13th. Fairly fine and sun until 10.30 or so and then hard rain. Drizzle off and on in PM. Hunting up track along river and then into forest--a flock of birds including M. [illegible] man tarna scolding a Poder gres. Van Arken left with Transport and our specimens about 7 AM. Toxopeus and Olthoff left [illegible] later to collect on the way and were caught in the rains. Zotitutuly and Decking arrived late PM. March 14th. Hard drizzle day; drizzle to hard rain most of day, no sun. No rain and some stars this evening. Krutzen and Decking left for Idenburg this evening 6 AM with our mail. Will stay there as many Papuans about. Water in radio house on Idenburg.
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Bernhard Camp April 10, 1939. Fine all day - water has risen a little top of mountains in clouds - base of clouds at 7-700 m - about where country changes to mossy conditions - Van Arcken and I down lagoon and across Idenburg where I shot a few birds. The appearance of lagoon and river and marsh has changed little though water 6-9 feet lower than top of flood in March. Hornbills commonly flying over. White cockatoos, lories and pigeons seem scarcer than when I was here in March, and Versteegh says they were very much more common here in August when Eugenies were flowering in forest - (Versteegh says many species fertile in August and not now. A smooth - four mile current in Idenburg - few logs - crossed to other side - a flat plain one meter or more out of water - second growth forest - rather open - floor mud covered - fresh tracks of dog - fresh and old tracks of several pigs - different sizes - fresh and old tracks of big cassowary - tracks of a medium size crocodile - wallaby tracks - many fresh bandicoot tracks - many tracks rats - big and small - a few megapod and many Goura tracks - saw one Goura. Birds seemed fairly common - shot Rhip. rufiventris, Artamius, Xanthetes chrysogaster and Rhip leucothorix there, only went 200 yards or less inland - bare footed in mud - one foot deep in places though drying. This was along upper side of a lagoon of tall reed grass with a little open water here and there - frogs were croak- ing somewhere on other side (Brass had told me about them) and I sent a boy up a tree but he could see no open water. Returned and followed bank up stream - the same - a sharp approx 3 ft bank - with sharp forest (rather low rain forest) edge - this is eroding bank and current swifter there -
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Upstream changed to cane grass and turned back here - this just above a Papuan landing place - a Papuan canoe tethered. Saw two Dupetor along this bank - fallen tree tops project above flood and on these Artamus and two Aplonis centroides perched - also Rhip. tricolor and saw what is certainly a nest of one of these three feet above water on exposed, dead tree top twenty yards from bank. Boys shot a cassowary near camp. April 11, 1939. Light rain in night - fine at dawn but a small squall passed 6 - 6.30 and then fine rest of day - water slightly higher. Today up creek to east - to where the approximately 10 yard stream comes out of the hills - here a fleet of six Papuan canoes (plus a floating derelict) tethered to bank. Walked up gravel stream a ways - beautiful clear water - pools six feet deep and shallows ankle deep into flood plain forest. Bare footed - coarse gravel not easy on feet. Dupetor flaviculis - a nest with two eggs fifteen feet above water, on flat fork, of tree leaning over stream (photo) below where there is current in it, where banks covered with second growth forest - found a dyak paddle in one of Papuan canoes and confiscated it. After leaving heard Papuans calling - perhaps attracted by shots - van Arcken says a village farther up stream. A canoe with four Papuans overtook and followed me back (photo) - strange how they sit paddling - the bow man doing most of paddling - with feet in water - astraddle the prows. Back at camp came ashore - four to five other canoes appeared - some each direction, σ, ζ including dogs and barong - dogs red brown and white -
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one, afraid of camp, kept jumping out and swimming away. Toxopeus came to stay this PM - put camp in uproar and confusion - why no bed - In PM jacking into mouth of stream to East - 6-8 Dobsonia about a fruiting? tree - see them over stream flying from South to tree (eyes gleam orange yellow) and hear them flapping wings in tree - Shot one - probably other species here including a big Pteropus?. Returning found two young crocodiles three feet long on submerged shrubs forest edge - only see red orange eyes of course - shot one twenty yards - stone dead - didn't sink because of shrubs - but boy tied it prauw. April 12, 1939. Fine sunny all day - canoe trip as yesterday - but went ashore in a few places - a solitary small Pteropus hanging asleep twenty feet up in dense foliage of tree hanging over water. Six or so little blue kingfishers - scuttle across water from shrubbery to shrubbery and always disappear inside - unable to see any sitting - shot one on wing - Saw one Phalocrorax melaleuca In evening upstream by camp. Early before very dark - many - 10 - 20 very small, erratic bats close about face of forest edge. Four Eurystomes playing about over top of forest trees - apparently not hunting - and one Hemiproce occasionally visited them. After dark located one nightjar by its eye - top of tree - but didn't get it. This AM several times saw Artitis hypoleuca - first time here.
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April 13th. A light shower 6-7 AM, then bright most of the day. Rain began evening 7 PM and into night. Down to main river. Water has fallen and sandbars exposed. Several species there I had not seen before.. Stilt 1 Notophozs picta 6-8 (flock) Charadrina dubius (yg?) 2 Egretta albe 1 Wary. Egretta garzetta 2-3 Tringa hypoleuca. 2-3 Sea Eagle On wa y back saw 3 lhis (threalkionin) circling high over lagoon and going higher. croc. Shot a 15-20 wixx. from garden 2 PM. Head and part of back showing, 200 yds. Held on it--hit first shot. Turned partly over and dived with splash. Came up 300 yds, head only. Very close to it with second shot but missed. Went down quietly, came up 400 yards, shot below. In PM up stream south of camp. Many-20-Chaetinae novaeguinea feeding low over second growth. At dark, many small bats at forest edge. In dusk a Hemprocine over stream, later, almost dark, Eurystopselius. April 16th. Water nearly stationery. Light rain until 9 or so when I went across lagoon and up small stream there. Only able to get 200-300 yards along stream before choked with bushes. In thick forest could go indefinitely . Returned noon. PM to other camp. Brass showed me pigeon (Ptilingus) nest on palm leaf but destroye One croc. floated today--3.52 m. long. I'd like to shoot a 12 m. croc. Chalcophagus and fruit bats xp disputing over hole in tree.
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April 17th. Dull AM, occasional drizzle and rain early evening and night. Down into cuscus country today but saw none. Brass circled through forest to camp and returned by canoe. Richardson to camp for a tin of gasoline. Has trouble with crocs. Jacema PM 2. Stema 4 over lagoon, playing above water 20-30 feet.
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April 21st. Dull AM. Hunting up stream to Papuan houses (8) and then over flat country on foot. Birds not very common Ducula rufugaster 1 sitting 45 fset up in big tree; missed it. Only one seen here. Clytoreyx ? Flushed one from ground--flew off. Very loud call. No kingfishers along stream--apparently all back in forest where I see them occasionally and where there are manyfish. Ardea Missed one on way back. Only seen occasionally and then usually flying over smaller waterways and lagoons. Once saw one perched high in tree in second growth, tree and small lagoon country. Stream by Papuan village beautiful sandy bottomed stream--sharp steep banks several feet high; higher, flatter gravel bars, some bananas growing on them. Bazzoni tells strange tales of gold mining people in camp on upper Idenburg being without food and water for one day. De Grout in Hollandia to talk with R.A. and Capt. T. to charter motor boat to bring goods up Idenburg. Sea plane cannot land on Upper Idenburg because of strong current. German? plane lands on sand bar. Soldiers out shooting in PM--2 guns** as per several days past--a cuscus and some common things. But some day will get me things as Campochera the other day. Richardson in forest today and he came to camp this PM; brought some Eclesteus, Shot one very small and one medium small bat tonight. Counting up records 27 species birds in 1 day my best day. April 22nd. Dull most all day; occasional light sprinkles of rain. Rain after dark. As so often, thunder about. Today up little stream to west. Stream became gravelly where I turned back. Water- fall still in distance. While there heard plane and returned.
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T15 and the the Grimond of Gold came in. Mr. Horne of Bullolo and Mynheer Hagerman, a 3/4 Dutchman of bluff, noisy, Teutonic type, came to stay and two Dyaks. Will fly in other personnel and later will use our canoes to go up Idenburg. Carry up rapids and build canoes above. Landed in upper Idrnburg but aren't too strong to pur a party ashore. The party we heard of a day without food or water was on limestone country on north shore. April 23rd. Weather has changed for worse last 4-5 days--little or no sun all day for last 4-5 days. Today dull AM, hard rain 10-1145; dull PM and rain early evening. Water rising. Brass put ovens on raft. Grimmond plane brought in three or four more people--a European radio operator, a servant and Dyaks. Amat got pawpaw from Dyaks. T15 tried in vain to get in from Tanamera and Grimmond stayed the night. We put up crew of two. Wired R.A. about gas and gold men are to have it all Toxopeus wanted to talkto me on radio--asked news and said he was ready for Java. Hunting today by 75 meter camp near landing. 2 Gerygone magnicordia in second growth along waterway. Corsina and fuleus underwing 2 from fruit tree by landing. Carynoclorca 1 from same fruit tree.by landing and later 1 from party of 4-5 at top of tall forest tree. Lalange 1 from same fruit tree by landing and later 1 from party of 3-4 at top of high forest tree. Puple hind 1 calling as usual from slopes. Bats 3 flying about path and 2 up to cling under leaf of forest tree--adult & and im mature and one under fern palm--couldn't find it.
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April 24th. Dull AM, a little rain 1 PM or so, then sun till mid-afternoon. Rain at 6.30 for a bit. Richardson moved down here today. Grammond left and Tl5 made one trip. In AM up track to other camp. At fig tree over track many Phlupus connilatus many " nana one Pitolini several Dinslax rupryostes one In PM down lagoon. 2 Amanorius climbing about in shrubbery in extensive flooded area. April 25th. Dull AM. Light rain to 9 AM or so, then dull. Rain on and off in PM and evening. Up trail to other camp. 51 birds today. Had about 30-35 species of birds on table today--didn't do all. Birds I've skinned being Memys Eurostymys Geoffreys Eclector Ptelomys coron Haleisten. R.A. aska about possibility of moving us out early, my flying to Tomsville? with him and then north to Java. April 26th. Some sun late AM and early PM; rain this evening and mist early. Grimmond came from Taime Mera to Bernhard Camp, to Hollandia and retmmed to T.M. with our mail which it will bring in tomorrow. R.A. wants to leave Hollandia May 13th and Tomsville May 17th so will begin to evacuate this camp May 9th.
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Me by Guba to P.M. and Tomsville. In AM hunting up stream to east. Richardson found flying foxes today. Zowerdicks went 40' up to the branch of tree over stream. April 27th. Light rain at 6. Dull all day. Light rain occasionally. Grimmond damaged underpart at Hollandia and will not come here from Tama Mera today. Hunting up creek to the east. 1 white heron, no other up. Comorgit--saw 3 or 4 blacks, 2 chicks only. Flushed 20 or so fruit pigeons. Rcihardson doing his 16 fruit bats from yesterday--smelly and, the soldier? claims, lousy. Water rising slightly--nearly into hospital. April 28th. Dull most of day, occasional light showers. River slowly rising 10-20 cm each day until 1½ feet will put it into dining room. Grimmond came in from T.M. with Dutch mail Hollandia--Returned T.M. but will be in Hollandia tomorrow and next day our mail. Dutch received word they will go by white boat except Schreuder who will be Hollandia to fix up Dyaks for K.P.M. 4-5 Ambion they will have. 1 Sacred ibis flying over. 1 flock 6-8 Notopharyx [illegible] picta flying over. -?-?-- pectoralis rare or absent. Saw none nor any Gerygone magnicordia.
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May 4th. Dull most of the day, occasional slight showers--some sun early PM. River falling, can walk dryshod to preparation house. Another minor tragedy in N.G. The Grammond sank in Sentani Lake after landing-- crew saved. 11 of party, 6 Dyaks, 2 cooks and 3 "Europeans" here and we talked of our plight in '36. Radio contact with plane failed 11 minutes after it left here. No radio antenna. Up to Papuan village on stream..a beautiful site. Weapons, sago tools and sago and many palm and ratan baskets stored there. May 5th. Dull and misty AM, light showers. Sun for much of PM. Sent two Dyak collecting boys out but I began to dry birds in ovens--dried most of partly-dried birds. 3 ovens full in 5 hours. Still have some of large birds and some fresh ones. Richardson as yesterday exploring river, spending all day away. 8 Dyaks, wasting traps, one rat. The other evening Van Arken spoke of the Atchemo--the people our Ambonese soldiers watwent to fight. In their minds the surest way to go to their heaven is to kill a white man, an un- believer or even better, a soldier. They will attack a brigade on parade; the more against a lone man the better; the better chance of killing perhaps more than one and of being sure of being killed himself. The water continues to drop though fish still swim under the kitchen and have to walk wet to Brass' raft.
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Arch. New Guinea Exped. Re: Typewritten & Field Notes on Trips to Hollandia Base Camp; include notes on flora & fauna of area. Dates: July 1938-May 1959
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SUMMARY OF ACTIVITIES OF INLAND COLLECTING PARTY by A. L. Rand The expedition was organized thusly. Base camp was established at Hollandia between May 23, when Mr. Brass first arrived, and June 17, when the last of the party arrived. Airplane reconnaissance flights were made over the proposed area in June, during which notes were made on the country, the camp sites on the Idenburg chosen and the route between that and Habbema Lake surveyed and photographed from the air. Lieut. van Arcken and his party of soldiers and carriers, with 90 days food, were flown to the Idenburg camp, June 28 to July 1. This camp was called Bernhard Camp, because it was founded on Prince Bernhard's birth- day. Lieut. van Arcken then started the Dyaks making canoes to take the party down the river in case of accident to the plane. At the same time he started to cut a track toward Habbema Lake, to a point on the Balim River chosen as a meeting place with Capt. Teerink, on the reconnaissance flights. He met Capt. Teerink there August 13 and arrived back at the Idenburg River August 20, having flown back by the plane from Archbold Lake. From then until the end of the year, except for a trip by plane to Habbema, van Arcken spent on the Idenburg slope, mapping the country and preparing col- lecting camps and a track to them from Bernhard Camp. The collect- ing party and Capt. Teerink, with three months food, were flown to Lake Habbema July 20-31. The next day Capt. Teerink left for the arranged meeting place with van Arcken on the Balim River, to open up the inner half of the track between Lake Habbema and the Idenburg, to be used as an emergency exit for the whole party in case of accident to the plane. Capt. Teerink met van Arcken August 13, then
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explored down the Balim River, finding a suitable landing place for the plane, which was later used as a collecting camp and from which Teerink was flown back to Habbema Lake Auguts 19. The itinerary of the collecting party, including the activities concerning collecting and those from which an idea of the country were formed, follow. It is divided into the two natural parts; the high mountain section and the Idenburg slope section. Mt. Wilhelmina to Grand Valley, 1600 - 4500 meters. Reconnaissance flights were made over this area in June. First landing Habbema Lake, July 15, 1938; last party taken from Balim River, December 19, 1938. Personnel: Brass, Huls, Rand, Richardson, Teerink, and Toxopeus were inland all this period; Archbold for the period August 19 to October 6; van Arcken, Meyer-Dress and Schreuder, September 2 to October 3. We had two brigades of native infantry and Malay and Dyak carriers. We also had Ambonese and Dyak collecting boys. Between July 22 - 31 the whole collecting party was landed at Habbema Lake. This camp was kept open until November 18, and a few specimens were collected here throughout the period by men station- ed there. Intensive collecting of birds was carried on from Rand's arrival, July 30, until August 26, when he went to the 3600 meter camp, spending the night at the intermediate 3400 meter camp, except for an excursion to this 3600 meter camp in company with Brass, Huls and Toxopeus Auguts 15-17. From August 22-24 Toxopeus made an ex- cursion to the site of the 2800 meter camp to the north and collect- ed a few birds. Rand returned to Habbema Lake September 1 to take part in a reconnaissance flight over Mr. Wilhelmina on September 4, and returned to 3600 meters September 5 and 6. Collecting boys were left at the 3600 meter camp to carry on collecting there while
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he was away. On September 11 Rand moved up to the 3800 meter camp which Archbold and Teerink had already established. Collecting boys were again left to continue work at the 3600 meter camp. The period September 20-28 Rand, in company with Archbold, Schreuder and Teerink, spent in two small camps at 4000 meters, one to the south and one to the west of the peak, and reached an altitude of 4500 meters about 1/3 of a kilometer west of the summit. Bad weather prevailed and most of this time was spent in idleness. On our return to the 3800 meter camp September 28 it was decided to abandon the idea of climb- ing the peak of Mt. Wilhelmina. During this period boys were col- lecting birds at both the 3600 and 3800 meter camps. We started to evacuate the 3800 meter camp September 29 and by October 2 the whole party was back at Habbema Lake. October 3 - October 7 was spent collecting the group material for the bird habitat group. The 2800 meter camp had been examined by Toxopeus and by van Arcken, was established by Brass on October 8, and Rand started col- lecting there October 10 and continued until November 10, when he moved down to the 2200 meter camp. This camp site had been chosen by Brass and Teerink on an exploratory trip, October 25-28, of the Bele River valley, and established October 31 by Huls and Teerink. Bird collecting was carried on here until October 4. When Rand went up to Habbema November 14 to see to loading group material, the col- lecting boys were left at work at the 2200 meter camp. When Rand returned on November 18 and 19, Habbema Camp was definitely abandon- ed, as Huls and Teerink had already established a camp on the Balim River where the plane landed and deposited reserve food. December 5, 6 and 7 Brass, Rand, Richardson, Teerink and Toxopeus moved to the 1600 meter camp on the Balim River, where collecting was carried on until December 18. On December 18 and 19 this camp was abandoned
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and all the party flown to the Idenburg or Hollandia. Itinerary. Bernhard Camp, Idenburg River, to camp 18 Km. N.W., altitude 2150 meters. The members of the inland collecting party spent Christmas and New Years at Hollandia. By January 3rd all of the inland party was at Bernhard Camp with about two and a half months supply of food. Van Arcken had already established a track to the highest available point within reasonable reach of Bernhard Camp (2150 meter camp, two and a half days journey) and had prepared camp sites at the altitude we planned to work. We worked the higher camps first, and thus inspected the lower camp sites on the way up. On January 6 we, van Arcken, Brass, Rand, Richardson and Toxopeus, passed the 950 meter camp site and moved to the 1250 meter camp, and spent the night at this site, from which we later collected, and continued to the 1800 meter camp on the 7th. As the 2150 meter site was only two hours beyond, and being on top of a spur with a small area of high country, we worked from the 1800 meter camp first. Transports were continually going between this camp and Bernhard Camp, and van Arcken, Huls and Teerink made many trips back and forth to prepare camp sites, arrange transport and for inspection. January 10 Toxopeus went up to the 2150 meter camp 18 km. S.W. of Bernhard Camp, to collect there until the rest of us moved up. Van Arcken had already prepared this site and provisioned it. About January 30 Toxopeus returned to the 1800 meter camp, moved down to a subsidiary camp at 1650 meters, an hour or so down the ridge. Toxopeus was the only collector to occupy this camp, though bird and mammal collecting boys were sent there with him. Toxopeus occupied
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this camp until February 2. The 2150 meter camp was occupied by the rest of the collecting party until February 10, when it was evacuated. The night was spent at the 1800 meter camp. February 11 we moved to the 1650 meter camp, a one-night camp of van Arcken, on the route where Brass spent two nights and Rand one night before going down to the 1200 meter camp. Richardson went straight down to the 1200 meter camp. Brass moved down to the 850 meter camp on March 4. Again this camp had been prepared for us by Teerink and van Arcken. Richardson moved down on March 6 and Rand on March 7. Since very high water was reported on the Idenburg, Rand spent March 18-27 at Bernhard Camp to investigate the bird life under these conditions. Brass moved from the 850 meter camp to Bernhard Camp April 6, Richardson and Rand April 8. Richardson and Brass occupied a sub- sidiary camp a half hour from Bernhard Camp and about 25 meters higher, at the base of the hills, until April 18 (Brass) and 24 (Richardson). Rand went directly to the main camp and worked from there. On the 8th, 9th and 10th the camp was evacuated and the whole campy flown to Hollandia.
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