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Transcription
Letter from Archbold, received at 3560 m Camp Sept.16.
Brass or Richardson:
Rather bad news regarding climbing Wilhelmina from the East or South.
We could find no feasible way to do it. We got to the top of the ridge directly south of this camp in two hours or a little under. Altitude of saddle 4230 m.
We then spent about an hour looking for a way to the west. We could find no feasible way of traversing along the top of the ridge and as both sides were precipitous it looks as if the only way to do was to go down a narrow couloir or valley that ran between the grey limestone and a blackish rock (basalt?) in a westerly or a little south of west and then cross an old rock-slide to a small basin. At the foot of the cliff there was a wat rfall, at the edge of the basin a few shrubs and a couple of holes about three meters deep where an underground stream ran. We decided to camp in the basin as it then was about noon and as the carriers had to get back it did not seem advisable to keep them any longer. We had quite a hailstorm that afternoon next and some of the hail stayed on the ground until eight in the morning, camp 5982 meters. The next morning we went up a valley with one or two old rock falls between the limestone and a brownish sandstone. We rested just short of the saddle at an altitude of 4270 . We forgot to look at the time or the altimeter after this, but I judge we were about fifteen minutes from the saddle. From the saddle we got a fine view of Garstens and the south coast to the west. To the south there were two small peaks, the sandstone one and a black basalt? one, then another apparently of the same stone as Wilhelmina. That was quite high and very massive with a flat top. Directly to the north was the snow of Wilhelmina, towards which we climbed. We had to use the rope as the rock was steep, smooth and there were few handholds. It soon was apparent that we had climbed a ridge to the south of the peak itself so that
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