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Vin Hoeman Interview W.J.L. Sladen Noon 27 May 1964 Presently prof.? Johns Hopkins, has student Richard "Dick" Peterson who is and has been of St. Paul (helped Dr. Irving with seals when he was there) Thesis on Pribylof material being prepared now. Ruddy Turnstones and both ssp. of Golden Plover gather at the flyblown seal carcasses after killing but just a few carcasses left out on St. Paul where they are processed now. Whole kill still left out St. George for some time before 2 yrs ago they processed all seal carcasses on St. Paul. Sladen banded only 2 Ruddy Turnstones, he suggests traps as well as mist nets. See Lockley & Russells' book on Bird-ringing for heligaland trap (permanent) See 1963 Jour. Wlf. Man. for clap-net which he had one made by Vern Scott modified with just one stake for use on Snow. Md. F.&G. Watch for Australian curlew N. madagariensis with great long bill. Not yet found in N. Am. Shpuld collect all curlews. Odd birds mostly November the "peaches" he calls them. Immature scaup-type ducks biggest ident. prob. Work + living conditions. All stays more than overnight must be cleared with sealing agency which has controlled Pribylofs since Russian purchase. Sladen says get it in Wash. D.C., Banko thinks Seattle. Natives who do the work are well trained, educated Aleuts whose expert services can be purchased. Boat from Seattle to islands only comes every 2 months and it is the only way to reach or leave St. George other than radio. Jeep he got Coast Guard to fly to St. Paul can be fixed and used for $100 parts Abandoned "Webster House" barracks at N.E. Point St. Paul could be equipped and used Publishing paper in Auk. 4 new sp. for Prib. Gavia stellata 10 June/66 Lake Antone St.P. Anas Formosa 4 on 9 Sept'66 Lake Kaminista St.P. coll. to 8 Oct. Mereca Americana 17 Oct.'60 small lk. betw. Tonki & Halfway pts St.P. 2 coll. 15 Oct'61 1 and 2 seen spring 62 by D.C. Baggs Bucephale islandica May'60 ♂ Salt Lagoon, St.P. 7 + 14 May'61 Lophodytes cucullatus hooded merg. ♂ seen 27 Oct'61 1 K. by weather bur., St.P. Pandion laliactus DIDN'T FINISH BECAUSE TOO HARD TO UNDERSTAND J.G.
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians Monday, June 1, 1964 Lug it all to airliner terminal at 0600, meet Win. Cloudy day as we fly United over Appalachians, but opens up some later as we approach Kansas City. When is Susannah getting married, today? No, I call her from the KC airport where we're stopped extra-long changing a tire and it's Thursday. She sounds happy and has moved into her apartment. A sailor from Joplin fresh from 2 years in Japan and heading for 2 more on Adak sits with me. Didn't get Fuji, says men are allowed to go out in pairs to climb Adak's snow capped peak he hears. Rainy in Denver but we get off briefly and I see Margaret Irvin from area USGS office who gets on our plane, but doesn't recognize me when I speak to her. I don't blame her--she's never seen me all dressed up. Rockies cloud-covered. Portland 1230 Pac./Sav. Time, lots of robins, Kestrel, and cliff swallow as we limousine to expensive ($8.25 each for double) Hotel Benson. I change from climbing boots to street shoes and we're soon off to U.S.F.&W. Div. of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife Regional office by cab. Win used to be at Red Rock Refuge and knows all these people so we talk all afternoon. Gene Kridley, the new "on-the-island" Hawaii Refuge Mgr. is here and has problem of FAA wanting to fill in that pond off end of Maui airstrip to reduce duck hazard. We get some names of people to contact including Peter and Nancy McRoy (U. of Wash.) and I learn that Lern Borns is at Kodiak now, having worked at Cold Bay with Jones for some time. This evening I walk to a wooded hill park about a mile away. One slate color junco, tree and r.f. swal., Fox spar., goldfinch, pine
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians siskin, rock (?) wren, bandtail (?) pigeon, house finch, dusky (?) Flycatcher, smazed at all the flowers--the laurels extremely varied in shade, the broom all yellow, etc.; saw shrew and a lot of mole tunnels. Tuesday, June 2, 1964 50° this morning at 0600. We have a good breakfast at Mannings cafeteria and the postmaster at a branch p. o. opens up the back door half an hour early for me to mail my typewriter and binoculars home. See another kestrel en route to airport and show Win my McKinley newspaper article while we wait for our flight by NW Orient to Seattle. The mountains are protruding vaguely from the cloud layer and I soon learned that those feared lost (at least in Post Intelligence headliner) on Rainier were only waiting out at white-out. We get better rates at Seattle's big Olympic Hotel by proclaiming our gov't. emp. Room 1058. Down to Iver's sidewalk restaurant on the wharf for a 35 cent pint of hot clam broth. We visit around leather shops getting a strip for Win's camera case too. Then to Bureau of Commercial Fisheries offices where we talk to the very pleasant chief, Sam Hutchinson; to an old friend of Win's, Harvey Moore (deputy dir.); and to Howard Baltzo who's in charge of the seal harvest, will be up there and says there are "tens of thousands" of ruddy turnstones about the seal carcasses, particularly on St. George in August. No problems so we will no doubt go to St. George with the boat 6 Aug. and may have to remain 3 months! Next go look at shotguns and find good ones available in the many hock-shops. Then to Red. Egpt. Coop where it turns out Win has been a
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 3 member since 1955. I leave Tom Choate's slides to be copied and buy a copy of Americans on Everest to give to Days. Have fish and chips and chowder at Ivar's for dinner, visit the nice smelly markets, offer a banana to a "hungry" panhandler (he returned it), and stop in library. Call Mrs. Neher (she's been in Anok since quake-- Bill's house OK, Mary Ann marrying someone in Sept. but not Dick), c=ll Bob Byhre for Randall's number and learn Terrey successful on Huntington but not McKinley. Call Francis and make date. Call Al Randall--he has 18 glacier studies on Muldrow. June 3, 1964 Awake before 0600, Bur. of Comm. Fisheries again by 0800 where we talk more with Baltzo learning if we go to St. Paul now we'll have to spend a week. Wilfred Anderson ran us out to the Fisheries Lab on Sand Point Military Reservation where we meet bushy-browed old Vic Sheaffer--I recalled him from Bky. Mtn. Expt. Sta. days, and Karl W. Kenyon. The letter is knowledgeable conservationist who's worked in Central Pacific too, deplores Jones' killing eagles because they take his Aleutian geese and the spraying of his neighbor killing his robins. We have lunch at "The Coals", I riding with Vic in VW after finding out Frank Richardson too tired from fleshing out elephant skeleton to see us. Then we meet Bob French and Chuck Hunter and learn that at-sea observations have been made in various areas of North Pacific since 1956 and that we could put observer on their ship. Meet Al Ropped who'll be on Pribilofs with family and Felix Favorite, oceanographer.
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 4 Finally the Fisheries Research Inst., but we don't get much help from them. We separate in midafternoon, I wandering through the university and bookstore wasting time till 1800 when I meet Francis Randall at Lun Ting and treat her to dinner. She asks lots of questions about McKinley and I show her where the lichens at 18,600 are. She to work and I bus home to the Olympic where I read and dream from Americans on Everest. Thursday, June 4, 1964 Raining, but I can hardly imagine Seattle without rain. We limousine to airport and fly Pan Am jet over clouds to Juneau with a 20 minute stop on Annette Island where we were able to get off plane--see raven and swallow. At Juneau I really feel I'm back in Alaska as we bus to town. Trashy, different-looking buildings, clean beautiful forested mountains, arctic terns, fish crows, cement streets in town. Coastal Alaska Ellis Airways Frame bldg. by water. Lots of medium and small sized hotels Baranof, Northland, Home, etc. We take Castanean about 2nd in size and have room 460 on top floor served by rickety old Am. Elev. Co. elevator. A big new Federal Bldg. is just going up--just steel girders so far. The capitol is old brick bldg. up on hill on 4th St. with a green-painted frame columned bldg. next door west that looks most imposing--may have been territorial capitol. Having arrived at just before 1100 we didn't locate our bldgs. to noon so we had an hour to waste and walked up the gravel Basin Road to turn off to big abandoned mine seeing Wilson's and yellow warb., hearing ruby- crowned kinglets and varied thrushes--see lots of robins and a swainson's thrush. Talk to Jim Brooks of state F and G when we get back and Ray Wilfred U.S. who is very helpful and offers us car for morning. They all
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 5 tell us of great unusual concentrations of shorebirds including golden plover that were here couple weeks ago. We also go the 5th floor capitol bldg. and have very interesting talk with Judge J. A. von der Heydt, who spent 17 years at Nome and collected and banded birds as sole ornithologist in that area. We've decided it's worth checking, more so at present than Pribylofs. Eat at the new Driftwood Inn and walk both north end south out of town. V.g., tree, and mostly Barn swallows, fox sparrow, orange-crown warb., gl.-wing gulls. Ran into Yule Kilcher in town--he's still hot for my "Trüüli Pk". By now my sister Su is an old married woman! June 5, 1964 Rain in night and more this morning from low clouds that permit us very little view as we take USR&W sta. wagon south to end of road. See harlequin ducks though (σ) mostly in salt water and over 100 unidentified Al- cids from the n. end of the road over on Douglas Is. Town Douglas mostly residential. Eagles and gulls. Lodgepole pine growing naturally. Then north to Anka Bay and beyond, 100 plus bonapart gulls on beach, a steilers jay on Mendenhall Loop Rd. Stop at lake to view glacier-arctic terns, barn swallows, semi-pal. plover, solitary sandpiper. Common Loon. See Yule again at airport heading south to pick up family in Calif. Catch PNA prop Flt. full of people and we have seats assigned on wrong side and waste time landing at both Yakutat and Cordova. As we come into Anchorage we see the huge crescent slump into the sea between Woronzof and town with t trees protruding from water. Air terminal conspicuous for the absence of its control tower nd the patched up bldg. Not so fancy lobby now--polar bear,
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Hoeman, J. Y. 1964--Aleutians wolves, and pilot pictures gone. At first on bus to town not much damage visible (chimney down on Idle Hour) but street blocked so we detour past West High and it's really a shambles of broken windows and cracked walls. Pete's and my wall at Robison's stands firm. But L St. Apts. stand in spectral silence and seem to lean a little, 4-winds Apts. a rubble-pile and a terrific fault* full of sunken houses parallels the bluff on the opposite side of L St. Repair is going on everywhere (and destruction). We get room 475 at Westward (has cracked wall) at $10.50 apiece per day for a double! Walk up to 4th Ave. and look at the gap where all those bars, Mac's Photo, Dendi Theater and Hautbrau used to be. Urban renewal I call it--a fine view. At Reeve's office we talk to Bob himself--he'll take us anywhere there's a strip if we have military permission. He's rather fat now with white h?ir, red face. Next to Arctic Health post shattered FAA, finding both Bud Fay and "Willi" Williamson in. Talk of quake and birds and islands. I learn Torbert's climbed a few days ago by Thomas, Crews, Gardey, Wichman and Wilson. Go over to Hornings' alone--Jackie and Cristy there and that Mary Ann comes in. Talk earthquake and I call Paul Crews, Peter Fading, Helga Fading, Dave DeVoe. Have a TV dinner with them when Gene gets home. He's kind of quiet but gives me a lift out to the place where Willi's living on 25th. Willi has a friend from small business loans of a Spokane bank there too and after they eat we drive out to Turnagain in Willi's car with the resident sticker on it. Surface water liner run all over the place and civil defense guards check car through and guard devastated areas. The new bluffs are steep sandy banks that severed roads and everything including
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 7 houses like "illi's. A few shells of houses remain amid tangled trees, but those properties that have been released by their owners are bulldozed off. Dr. Meade is pretty broken up I hear and rumors are wild, but they seem not to have ever found his 2 kids. The worst rumor was that they found them a week later with evidence that Perry'd lived 24 hrs. trapped. Eric Barnes lost house. Boy Scouts cutting up birch for firewood down in Turnagain. That biology teacher of Brenda's died when a crack she fell in closed on her severing both legs and one of her husband's as he tried to help her out. Amazing more lives weren't lost. The last pillars of Penney's I saw equipment removing today. June 6, 1964 This morning I tried to get hold of Scott at YMCA, but he'd left. I'd gotten directions to those girls' apt. by phone from Marj. So I went over there and woke her up but the only mail for me other than USGS proofs was a letter from Carolyn Parker. Marj probably wanted me to show some affection, but her roommate was there and emotions seemed unsuitable. She drove me back to Westward. Col. Wi came in from Ft. Rich and we talked to him. Next I walked down along the r.r. to Chester Flats seeing 2 dowitchers, a lesser yellowlegs, and least sandpipers but no godwits and pond must've been oiled. Stop at Lewises and have lunch with them. Shirley had thought Dave would be "frantic" over earthquake, but the only card he sent was one telling how much he was enjoying "some mountain in N. Mex.". I could have told her as much. Bill Woodward also expressed his concern. They've "adopted" another young fellow a poor servicemen saving money to get married
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 8 from Maine at Ft. Rich whom they're going to give their Lloyd to. His name's Rickie and we saw him as Eben took me back to Westward to pick up Win and took us out to airport where he was going to get his plane running. Says one guy came in 1st thing after quake to sell trailer and get out, but most people were stunned sothere was no law business for a while. Flying to Kenai in our PNA DC-3 we could see 2 pr. of trumpeter swans (my first sure ones) on little lakes. Bob Wade of US Bur. S. F. and W. picks us up at field. We go to the station--a group of white-frame bldgs., after checking into a unit at Spur Motel ($5.50/night each) to his house to talk a while and his wife makes us instant coffee, boy and girl watch TV. Both Spencer and Troyer out initiating new canoe trail so we must wait till tomorrow to see them, but Bob loans us a GSA "Lark", so this evening we drive down the old rd., paralleling and crossin g the new straight one they're paving. We ate expensive salmon (frozen from Seattle) 100 ft. fm. where they were running up the Kenai River! This was at rCIF's and we saw ? black poll warb, gray jay and bonapart and mew gulls, and arctic terns out window. Then down to Cohoe (2 more/gray jays en route) and no phalaropes and great yellowlegs) where no body at PO but we backtrack to "SMITH" sign, drive and walk in., leave note at "HOO Called" owl sign on door (2 dogs tied out back). Also drive in to Will Troyer's fine house on sports lake with only a dog home again (Pr. suff scooter and common loon on lake) but meet Mrs. and kids coming home as we leave. We saw bank swallows too. Pr. of green-wing teal in pond by road. Still some ice and snow on surface in deep gullies here at sea level! Saw a moose near Cohoe too.
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 9 June 7, 1964 Seems like a wasted day at first with all the things I could be doing at Anchorage, but I hike down to Kenai Flats. Many gulls there, mostly mew, 3 red-throated or arctic (?) loons fly over singly with duck-like quacking to feed together and "courtship race" in river mouth, ravens heard, с blackpoll and ruby-crowned kinglet, and c yellow warbler called close; robins, Savannah sparrow, redpolls, slate-colored junco; tree, band and v. q. swallows seen; also Fox sparrow, white-crown sparrow, arctic tern. Golden-crown sparrow and varied thrush heard. After poorish breakfast at Rig Cafe in torn-up, dusty town (they're putting in city water and sewage system) we drive up road beyond Nikishk; oil docks. I was looking for Eric Barnes ' fishing site but failed to find it and am sure his veterinary sign wasn't up. We photoed mountains and noted smoke from Crater Hk. on Mt. Spurr. Rest of ‘orn. Early this afternoon we spend in refuge office. Win at work on something of Chuck Long's--I coding the Atoll Ecology book. Then we drive north to beyond Moose River but return to it and walk ( ) up it on south bank to see pair of swans around first bend 1/2 mile up. They are trumpeters, an odd pair of 1 ad. and 1 last year's cygnet. Very curious--they swim right up to us "talking". The toots echoing from house on far shore. Pintails, Am. widgeon, shoveler, Gr.-wing teal, a sandpiper there too. Walking back we find a Bonapart gull nest, mode of Ursnea lichen, 3 eggs, 15' up leaning black spruce and I collect it and eggs. Also semi palmated plover nest of 4e both par. put on Gr. wing set, one at 4' distance. Rusty blackbird seen and on way home we accidentally kill ? myrtle warbler with car. I blow eggs and we eat stuff we'd picked up at
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 10 grocery store. While I was looking for birds' nests and getting barked at by dogs this evening I found a stolen (?) and stashed bicycle. Monday, June 8, 1964 Wake 0530 and we get to airport by 0600 but too foggy for plane to get in (1st time this yr.) so we have to wait for 1730 flt. We go to office after 0800 to talk to them some more. Mostly about swans, and I skin an older flycatcher that someone brought in from the road. Noticed earlier (0730) loose flock of about 25 violet green swallows, but other than that mostly tree or bank. Win works up some swan stuff from their records and I look at some of their sloppy records. We go eat at ----, a big, homey type of place with them---then catch our largish plane to Anchorage. Just stay at airport there since we have 1700 flight to Fairbanks. I call Scott and Kay. Scott is going with the Japanese on Mr. St. Elias next month and is mgr. of a large AF, CAP "Glue team" for Seward Race this year. Next walk for 2 hours out to Woronxof Marsh--see arc. terns, Bon. and Mew gulls, redpolls, semipel. plover, mallard, growing teal, spotted sp.; Fox, Sav. and w.c. sparrows; tree, v.g. and bank swallows incl. colony of latter in sand and gravel pit where I dig out one hole. Nest cavity about 2' back in easy sand, grass and feather nest, 3 fresh e. I coll. Fly Alaska Airline jet over clouds to Fairbanks, seeing McK. fm: NF after passing at 267000'. A guy takes us to town in his sta. wag. I spot pr. sandhill cranes overhead. We check in Nordale Hotel, eat at Economy Cafe. Hank Hansen and Jim King passing through in Nordale too, we
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Hoeman. J. Y. 1964--Aleutians 11 meet and go eat another place with them. I'd called Millers earlier. Hank is getting on--thinking about retirement. June 9, 1964 This morning we meet Hank and Jim for breakfast at the Economy Wednesday, June 10, 1964 Raining--we drive to airport, leave vehicle, fly Wein Airliner F27 jet to Nome over clouds. Pushpilot's wife (he now flies for Wein) with 8 months old adopted boy-Chris--sits beside me, ex-Chicoan, Alas. since '55. I hold baby a while and she invites me to dinner but I forget to find out where. Sewardess talks to us handing out illicit (on this airliner) propaganda for Rampart Dam telling us to influence the influential. I don't try to argue with her, but I tell my friend that I'm not convinced. The cloud layer breaks into hills and valleys of cloud and there below us is the Bering Sea, blue blck with white cakes and floes of ice. Time: 0745 Bering Sea Std. Time. The coast of the Seward Peninsula is immediately north of us, beaches, lagoons, the cliffs of Bluff and respectable snow-covered mountains way back behind. About 0802 we land at Nome, 39°F. and it doesn't warm much beyond that today. I'd seen a bird or two from theair as we came in and more as a limousine took us the very short hop to town, but nothing identified yet. The green Polaris Hotel has a chunk of sidewalk around it, but almost all the rest of the walks in town are boardwalks of 2 X 4 or other lumber in various stages of delapidation. We pass it and the big red-brown Bering Sea Hotel to try the North Star which has cafe, but they're full up so we go back and check in Room 9 of Bering Sea.
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 12 We walk some sloppy streets and visit/ Alaska F and G., but John Burns on Diomedes. Try Bur. of Ind. Affairs for vehicle and Jack Burkehart calls around till F. and G agrees totake us out to Safety Lagoon. We also call the C.O. at NE cape, St. Lawrence and agree to fly out Friday. Brawny young protection agent, Fred Schultz takes us in Scout to Safety Sound, but drives dusty rd. too fast and doesn't stop enough so my glimpses of whimberel and snipe and longspurs through dusty windshield were not satisfying. Soon long-tailed jaegers, many northern phalaropes and lapland longspurs, red phalarope, ground squirrels, and arctic terns before we cross Nome River's 1-lane bridge, then at the thick alders up to 10 or 12' high at Cape Nome were hoary redpolls, white-crown sparrows, fox sparrows, and willo ptarmigan. More phalarope at Safety Sound, pintails, pair of Old Squaw; pr. green-wing teal; semi-palmated sandpipers, Savannah sparrows, and a dunlin. We turn around at the ferry at mileport 21 and I locate a longspur nest with 5e. "A lot of 'skimo shacks all along spit but most seem empty. Take Cape Nome Mil. camp Rd. over a mile north along hill and over small snowdrifts. Hear gray cheek thrushand see robin and maybe common redpolls. First two golden plover on the breedin ground! A dead lemming in a redpoll nest seems to have frozen there. Hear gray-cheeked thrush and see a Siberian Rough-legged Hawk hunting. Returning to Nome I spot pair of loons in bay but too far away. 3-hr. trip. This aft. we walk in beginning sprinkle to Chuck Reeder's garage and arrange to rent vehicle tomorrow. Also through cemetery which is very full of decaying falling boards and crosses, frost-heaved ground, 2 small spruces (larger 6' tall). See pr. gray-cheek thrushes, robins, snipe-walk along abn'd.
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 13 grown-over railroad. See First yellow wagtail and recognize it immediately as it gives its metallic alarm hovering and dipping above us. Find fox sparrow nest, 3 e low t ground. Later on the sea wall of huge granite rocks behind our hotel with the wind driving ice inshore I see a black-legged Kittiwake following the beach, a graceful andbeautiful gull. Walking out near town I differentiake semipalmated and western sandpipers. It rains this evening quite hard. June 11, 1964 This morning I write a bit, attempting to catch up, while Win goes and picks up our old Chevy ($15/day plus gas). Nice day now as we go out past airport and highway dept. At milepost 4 where road enters hills we stop. I find Wilson's warbler and yellow warbler to add to our list, but Win locates a pair of golden plover on territory. We go on over the hill and as we come down to Nome River we see a swan going down if pursued briefly by a jaeger and up it a little ways a swallow I though was violet-green at the time, but later admit could have been tree, in flying around abn'd. mine cabins, 2 of which had bird houses. At mile 17.5 we get stuck where snowdrift seals road so Win walks back to get hwy. comm. cat. to come pull us out while I watch Jaeger, golden plover, nest with 4 e. 20' from willow clumps on either side. Next we drive down to Cape Nome again and walk back the road, I f'nding huge intricately-built hoary re@poll nest 6 1/2' in alder, 3 e. I climb to the 675 plus/minus summit of the hill there--a flat bouldery top with a recent cat-track to the old fallen survey standard over 1944 US and GS BM
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 14 "NOME" (another 1944 "CAPE" down for point of limey rock to e.) Returning we see a pair of red-breasted mergansers, another kittiwake, and what I suspect might have been a pr. of rosy finches. We return car, after collecting the set of golden plover eggs and photographing parents, and I check my fox sparrow nest, 4 e. The golden plover eggs were fresh. June 12, 1964 Skip breakfast to make a walk this morning and find robin nest. 3 e on rafter of abn'd. house as I leave town--? not only bit my finger but wouldn't leave eggs till I pried beneath her! I go across old wooded "US Gov't. Use at Yr. own risk" suspension bridge, try in vain to find nest of scolding wagtails, and walk way out beyond a dead dredge west of the airport but see no new birds and find no more nests till returning I find 2 common redpoll (I assume by loose construction--fairly white-rumped) 3 and 5 eggs and yellow warbler nest under construction, all 3 in willows. Carry my plover eggs in bnoes case to keep them whole as we take cab to airport but wait over 2 hours for our DC 3 to finally depart. See Rex Thomas taking his polar bear and walrus heads he traded tobacco for out and a boy about 8 says "My dad works on birds too!" Turns out he's West and we talk to his mother (slight, dark-haired, interested) there too. They're on one of these Arctic Tours with her folks. So we fly over Bering Sea and it's clear. At 1500' we can easily pick out walruses and seals on the edge- of the ice--the tusks of the former gleam in the sun! Icepans all different--many birds. At 1425 Ber. Sea Time I first sight St. Lawrence Is. and some 20
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Hoeman, J. Y. 1964-- Aleutians 15 minutes later we're landing on the gravel strip at N E Cape. Lots of people there to greet the few who get off and among them portly Lt. Col. Smith with slight gray mustache and warm, unsuperior manner--quite unmilitary. He crowds us into Dodge double cab AF pick-up to go up to the base and asks what those birds are on the way. Glaucous gull I say;they later turn out to be herring. We're assigned nice clean room in BOQ, have good chow (the whole place is connected up with hallways so they never have to go outside). 2 weeks ago all was winter with snow everywhere. This evening I walk aro nd while we wait to meet native "chief" Clarence Pungowiyl. Yellow wastail, old squaw, pintail, Golden Flover, Buddy Turnstone, Dunlin, W. Sandpiper, and Lapland Longspur I see. Raven, longtail jaeger, no. phalarope, short-eared owl, sandhill crane seen too. Clarence is stocky 5'2" eskimo who knows game birds better than others, but will take us out in boat tomorrow--weather permitting. We drove down to his village and brought him up I remember now. June 13, 1964 A day of events. After breakfast Win and I start to walk to native village, but the Col. overtakes us in truck with the rations, galoshes and parka he'd promised. See 7 or 8 ravens, and he tells us the eskimos believe they're reincarnated ancestors. the ice blocks us solidly so boating's out but Clarence says he'll take us bird-hunting by dogsled so we wait watching flocks of birds passing continuously cut over the ice (least crested auklets it turns out). See 2 pair of Emperor Geese fly by close and I walk out to a tundra pond where I see a pair of Common Eiders. Some fleshed out tusk-bearing portions of walrus heads lying around and in his boat (walrus hide painted white) a dead horned puffin nd least auklet he killed yesterday
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 16 down near Punik Islands. Soon he appears and harnesses 4 dogs to central tow-line of the simple sled while I hold it, harnesses made of young muk-luk. We go east while a stout and even shorter 22 yr. old cousin of him or his wife, Vincent Savoukok, takes Win and battered shotgun west out on the ice of the Bering Sea. So my fist dogsled ride is on sea ice full of gaping cracks and low wet spots with my eskimo driver shouting chigg-chigg for right or huh-huh (left) continually. I'm amazed at our speed, we fairly fly. An open pool has common eiders and red-throated loons, by one little creek where we stop is a whale rib longer than I am and I nearly get dunked when a piece of rotten ice breaks with me on my way back to the sled. At the Abraham River we stop and he says he'll meet me back at Cape SEEvoo we'd passed earlier. In a pond area I see and walk up close to 14 emperors, 1 cackler, and a pr. of lesser scaup. Back at village I talk to his wife, Helen, slight with dark long hair who is fm. s. side and remembers Otto Geist (Clarence collected for Geist about 1928). She knows birds well, and even Sharon, the teenage daughter who speaks best English, saw 2 bald eagles last year. He said he has 4 kids and 2 adopted--the little girl, Darlena, is so white she must be one of the latter, will be 2 in Sept. Another girl is typical fat eskimo, must be 12 or 13. They have wolverine pelt Anchorage furries, which Green sent them as prize for having cleanest sealskins in all Alaskas, but they seem more pleased that their name was broadcast over KICY Nome announcing them as winner. I saw some of their seal skins--very nice, but I'm sorry to hear the price is jumping on them and that Norwegian sealers are seeking to kill in N. Pacific and Bering Sea waters, having depleted the N. Atlantic.
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians Win and Vincent come in, the latter with string of 43 birds (2 leasts, the rest crested auklets with beautiful bright orange bills) and I remember the col. telling me they killed 67 pintails when they first arrived this spring, and I felt his awareness that conservation is needed. Win seems convinced that the Alcid streams are endless though. I pay Clarence $2 and Win gets carried away and gives Vincent $5--the whole family beams, says Vincent almost got a seal out there. We walk out through tundra--separate, he finds longspur nest 4e. I a pintail nest 1e. I see both nether and red phalarope, more lesser scaup, a pair of dowitchers that here would have to be long-billed, the first I've ever been certain of. Beautiful close view later of a red-throated loon and 3 whistler swans fly right over me, the 2 together and (dri) bugling. See common loon at a distance, a pair of snow buntings, and collect a W. sandpiper ? 1 rupt. follicle, 1 egg in oviduct with rock, skin her. Have not yet mentioned lemmings, brown ones all over the tundra and beacher burrows everywher; I killed one yesterday skin ruined but I saved skull. Arctic ground squirrels here too. And introduced reindeer. June 14, 1964 This fine morning after breakfast we head east across the tundra and the base of Kinnipaghulghat Mtn. and Before we've gone ½ mile I flush a W. sandpiper from its nest of 4 darkly blotched eggs which I collect. I'm watching the cliffs of pinnacles above as and finally spot a raven at a particular spot and know there's a nest. While I'm looking through Win finds another golden plover nest only this must be fulva and the other dominica
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians because these eggs are smaller with different ground color and spotting. Decide to collect them later and continue eastward past protesting cranes to the Abraham River, do n it to the tidal ice at its mouth broken up into peculiar columnar crystals on its surface now! Many arctic terns at the sand spit beach and a surprising amount of driftwood including sawn off cotton wood logs and stumps. Win finds a Russian (?) light bulb and a fishing float and is encouraged by this luck into following beach . I cut back to to the hill though, climb t my raven cliffs where pair of them protest in g graceful dives but I fail to find nest at first so climb 3 g. The rock pinnacles then continue to the hilltop where there is a cairn and a beau- tiful view of the whole eastern end of the island. Miles of empty tundra up here but evidence reindeer use it in winter. I turn west to reach the E. high point of Kinnikaghlughat Mtn. where a d snow bunting sings on the 2 cairns. Back down at raven rocks I find the nest and inspect it after a tough climb of 15 ' with the parents diving within spitting distance and cawing madly. Nest of willow and birdh sticks and one reindeer rib about 2' across, l' thick lined with white hair and underfur (reindeer, fox, husky?) containing 2 big featherless chicks with bills as wide as they are long, no eggs. Returning to camp I pick up my shorebird eggs which I blow after dinner. June 15, 1964 Mid-June St. Lawrence Island. We walk down to the village this morning and speak with Clarence about our return in Sept. and boat to SE Cape. Then walk around n hour--I to point west where I watch flocks 300 birds one inute, 500 next, 300 next for randm period all pass toward east. Some whlebones there. Com. eider, pintail, her. gull, no. phalarope, r. turnstone,
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--^Leutians 19 (may be nest somewhere in rocky area) y. wagtails, w. sandpiper, ravens, old squaw as I return. We are soon packed off by the colonel to the airport--he cursing Wien for arrival on short notice. That small plane here Wien's too; wind damaged both wings so company will probably write it off for total loss though they could easily have fixed it right away. Take off, the DC-3 going direct to Nome since they had too much for NE Cape and Gambel to take both at once. We're only passengers so stewardess Patty Jo sits by me to talk. Nice, pretty eyes, from Spokane, senior at U. of Alaska next yr. At Nome we have over 2 hrs. so walk to town: check fox spar. nest 4 e; w.c. spar. I suspected bldg. otherday 5 e: my robin nest in abn'd. house destroyed by kids, the smashed eggs on floor but no sign nest or parents. I can't imagine ? escaped she was so brave. Stop in Alas Fa nd G, on sec'y and Fred Schultz there, soup in N. Star and look at ivory (expensive) across the street at shop--bird cliffs fm. walrus tusk nerves and fossil mastadon ivory, he imports 300 dom. rabbit skins per month. I walk back inspecting com. redpoll nests 4 and 5 e, semi-pal. sp. nest I'd found approx. loc. of before 4e, yellow warb. nest apparently moved. See bank swallows. Fly Alaska Airliner F27 to Anch. Sd. mostly open, I discover steep- sided Besboro Is. we land Unalakleet 10 min. I run ar und see pr. Bonapart's gull in sea, Sav. spar., Arctic tern. A clean and painted little town with a road system leading out to a site and beyond some timber and brush on hills incl. spruce. Cross the mighty Yukon. First time I've seen in Alaska, Innoko Riv. flooded. We land on paved strip at McGrath.
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 20 June 16, 1964 A day in Anchorage. We call Bob Jones and arrange to come tomorrow. Get rd. trip tickets ($204) at Reeve office. Go to Arctic Health to talk to Bob Raush and Jim Hemming (neither Fay nor Willi being in) and Jim gives us a tour of the lab. Environmental sanitation is now cramped into our old conference room. Got some reprints. Visit colony too with its Lemmus and Dicrostinix lemmings. Jim saw as many as 150-200 huds, dodwits a day last month here! Golden eagle and goshawk at farm were taken (released?) by someone. Dick Zinsman, Rachel Simmet, Miss Lee and others at coffee. One of my old 1st aid cla ss recognized me on street today, a blonde girl whose name I forget--was in Nome at quake time. See Doug Hilliard in front of p.o. and John Bousman of all people with b ig monstache--brought couple named Schnieder from Boston back with him and they plan to go in to Marcus Baker and Goode soon with Helga. At lunch time I talk to Kay Hoshouer in City Planning then go get maps from Margaret Irvin at their new location on 5th (Cordova Bldg. empty) and she asks why I don't send in those proofs myself. No Kilshers live at 212 E. 6 th the woman tells me there. I find Scott at his office and talk abt. Mt. Marathon (Stockard co-capt. his blue-team) and Jap. St. Elias Ex. Meet Helga 1500 hrs. at Jones Bros. but have an interesting talk there with Peter in his office first. June 17, 1964 Early we must rise and breakfast at Mays Cafe to catch limousine to airport where we wait to board the Reeve 4 eng. plane. S't right and see
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Hoemen, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 2 pr. swan as we fly low to Kodiak. See just tip end of Tustumena as we pass over it and e. of Seldovia and Barrens and Marmot. Waterfront pretty bare at Kodiak but the gull island looks same and King Crab Inc. still there I think. We cut across n. Kodiak then down its western side but clouds covered most of that area and the Alaska Peninsula as we continued along it. Finally a break as we descended and the coast of the N. side of the penin- sula a queer, flat volcanic outwash plain. In at Cold Bay where we are met by Bob Jones, squarely cut 5'10", triangular head, grayed blond hair thinnin_ on top, upper lip split on right. He excuses himself to escort a USC and GS man named Taggart onto plane for Adak where he'll be doing seismic work n earthquake research all summer. Of this man he later spoke in such glowing terms I wish I'd introduced myself as we stood smiling at each other in mutual interest. But Bob Jones is quite a personality himself and I felt growing interest in him as we jeeped to the quarters arranged for us, then to his new office in the attractive group of 4 refuge bldgs. atop hill overtaking Gay. Drizzly sort of day but our talk very interesting and soon Peter and Nancy McRy come in and they are even eager to take us out on Izembek so I check out the motors with Bob in 55 gal. drum and we load them, gas, etc. in Dodge 4 whl. pickup end drive to the plane they'll be staying (one of many old WWII half-buried quonsets) to get hipboots and wet weather gear for us, wetsuit for Peter. Then we get boat into water and soon Pete is piloting us through the channel of eel grass lagoon first to a small island where we see only Sav. spar. which Nancy seems to appreciate my recognition by note, but it's awfully hard not to be a fool when you're supposed to be an expert in someone else's
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians locality. Also flocks of black brant fly in dose formation over the water or sit out on muckflats. We anchor boat and walk to the derelict ship marked on themaps and visible from afar. I walk ahead with Nancy--she's N.Y. state girl, but they apparently met in the U. of Mich. and Pete worked a summer in Juneau (AIRP?) where he knew Walter Wood. The ship is beautiful, an old wooden whaler with half a mast left and another nearby inthe sand. The metal work is all there but nearly corroded away, but the extensive wood- work, including dowells that held sides together, is intact. One can easily read the name "Courtney For" carved on the bow. The beach is absolutely littered with glass fish balls, almost all small most still in net ( Cotton-Russian; hemp-Jap, Pete says), and lots of bamboo poles, rope, a great hempen bag, etc. We go to the rye-covered dune part of this island, note strawberries abloom and many other flowers and fine a nest I though was Sav. spar. at first but later decided wor ong spar. because of feather lin ng. 4 darkly marked eggs. See several seals and flocks of terns and gulls as we return at lower tide. Lv. the boat out as they'll be using it, and return first to their place, then to office. To Jones' to eat with Bob and his wife, Dora. She appears to have been not-too-pretty widow with a couple (?) of kids. Bob is music fan, wants to visity Italy for the opera. June 18, 1964 Raining when I woke and went out but I walked around and a friendly dog followed me. I couldn't chase him away so I didn't go up to the station where Bob doesn't want dogs to scare their tame fox. Later I did though and while Win and Bob discussed how to fight some cowman's proposal to run cattle on Unimak that we were telegraphed about, I arrange to go look at a sandpiper
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Hoeman, J. V. 1964--Aleutians 23 nest the McRoys found the 13th. We take jeep on the road toward Frosty Pk. and flush the bird from its tundra nest, a rock sandpiper looks and acts something like dumlin 3 big eggs in top of niggerhead. On to Frosty Creek Bridge where a pair of ouzels act as if they may have nest. Returning see 30 ravens at dump and 50 rook s.p. on beach. Pete definitely wants to climb Frosty with me, this summer--late Aug. if I'M passing through then, and I think I might be. We have to rush off to airport and fly to Anchorage non-stop with clouds obscuring everything till we get up over Cook Inlet. Get good look down at Augustine's smoking volcano as we pass immediately east of it, Tuxedni and Kolgin Islands then offer Pt. Possession. Win decided to go direct to Seattle on a flight he could board right away and visit his sister over weekend, but I had to go to Anchorage to get my clean clothes so we split up at airport. In Anchorage I rent $2 bunk YMCA, but don't like it or the attitude of the "don't leave anything on it you don't want stole" colored boy. So after trying in vain to get my laundry I found Gary Hansen home at Knife Armes 6th (top ) floor. He's working for himself now with a drawing table set up by big corner window his only furniture. His sleeping bag spread on floor--he invites me to bring mine. I accept and also dinner invitation with a girl coming to prepare same. Her name is Elaine Oetting, ex-Stewardess holding 2 other full-time jobs presently, 24 on 7 June, 3 yrs. Alaska. We go out to find her a place to live with a girl named Alice similarly artificial type or perhaps dissimilarly. Then buy food for meal (Gary won't let me pay) which she does most of the work preparing. pick up my pack at YMCA (no refund). Gary had answered add on his car
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 FIELD NOTES January 29 Flew over the moonlit, cloud-decked Pacific by jet from Los Angeles this evening, finding the distance impressive and fully comparable to our spanning the North American continent earlier today. As we approached the islands the lights on Oahu were visible through breaks in the clouds, but Molokai, as we passed over, seemed as dark and barren as when the lava pushed out of the sea. The lights of Honolulu, a city of over 300,000 are spread far up and down the coast from Pearl Harbor to Diamond Head. Here is a chain of islands with almost exactly the same land area as the Aleutian chain 2000 miles to the north but so different in the terrestrial life it supports. Touch down at 2137 hours (HST) and leave the plane into air that seems liquid at 75° F. The "tropical smell" is the same as Central America - perhaps the flowers. We are met by J. P. Ludwig and Roger Clapp who take us to the Hawaiian King Hotel in Waikiki. There we all ten get together in one of the rooms to exchange information and celebrate the coming work. There is much to be done, but, after the "celebration" and a shower, my body said no to be typewriter. Everyone was in agreement though that this day, in which we'd gained five hours was finished. January 30 All night the gentle tradewind blew, and the steady stream of my thoughts kept sleep from reaching me. At 0540 hours the predawn cries of the Indian Myna, Acridotheres tristis, got me up and about 0600 in the nearby International Market I could see those noisy birds beginning
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 2 to shift among the dark foliage of the roost trees. As we went to breakfast shortly later we noted Barred doves, Geopelia striata, very numerous and tame with a distinctive, off-repeated call. The larger Spotted Dove, Streptopelia chinensis, was also seen, a flock of House Finches, Carpodacus mexicanus, was noted and House Sparrows, Passer domesticus, are in their usual sidewalk abundance. While the mynas are certainly the most obvious birds as they walk on the ground and make a variety of noises from house tops; I later decided house sparrows are more abundant for they are nesting in house eves and on palm leaf- stubs everywhere. I saw a barred dove carry somthing to a leaf stub (nest material ?) Although most of the day had to be spent on the report writing and data compilation, I managed to make a number of short field trips about town becoming familiar with the Japanese white-eye, Zosterops japonica, a distinctive little bird that easily hides among foliage, and found my first bird who got here without man's help, a Golden Plover, Pluvialis dominica, foraging in the narrow grown lawn of the officers club of Fort De. Russy. Somehow less grand than in his breeding plumage on the tundra, but his species' precedent for touring to these isles is older than ours. The only insect I noted today were a few orange with black marking butterflies that appear to be monarchs. Many flowers are abloom. Quite'a few plants seem to be closely related to species I've known in tropical America, probably many are introduced from there.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 3 Ray Jillson caught an interesting small fish (Sculpin ?) in the nearby Ala Wai Canal. "Ala Wai" is Hawaiian for fresh water road, but this section of the canal, nearly 2 miles above its mouth is still affected by tides and probably quite salty. Too long otherwise life size, but others of what seems to be this sp. attain 6 to 8 inches. Usually seen solitary and sedentary at night among littoral rocks. January 31 Slept well. Hit the paperwork again this morning till 0730 when Ely, Gould, Ludwig, Whiteman and I drove out to Pearl Harbor to check our ship. We wpent an hour at the Nimitz Gate getting passes and waiting for Dr. Brodie. Before we reached there, I counted twenty barred doves one place on a lawn. They are so confident they will walk right from a porch into a house but seem never to be caught. At the gate a Golden Plover lit on the building roof and I saw half a dozen more today in yards. Three or four Brazilian cardinals, Paroaria cristata, lit in a tree from which a moment later a pair of mockingbirds, Mimus polyglottos, chased each other. At the harbor we found the U. S. S. Energy and checked out our storage area beneath the starboard hatch on the faintail. Here super structure and deck are wood, very pleasing. She's 176 feet long. After meeting Ferguson and others, Ludwig, Whiteman, and I went on to Pearl City to bring our stores from the warehouse. En route we spotted five Cattle Egrets, Bubulcus ibis of a recent introduction
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 Later, back at Hawaiian King Hotel, more paperwork, but walking to dinner Jillson, Whiteman and I visit Waikiki Beach at sunset and see plastic i.d. tag put up by Waikiki Lions Club on a Hibiscus tree there. From other trees on a parkway between lanes of Monsarret Ave. came the pre-roosting noise of at least 100 mynas, quite like their close relative Sturnus vulgaris, but more varied of voice. During the day they travel nearby always in pairs. Late this evening Jillson and I visit Ala Wai canal with lights. Besides the species mentioned yesterday at least two others were captured. Also small jellyfish and on the rock wall geckos. Barnacles and a species of green crab are plentiful in the shallows while larger fish jump out in the middle. On the wall are cockroach-like insects over 1 1/2 inches long. Another insect I observed today were what look like pure-black bumble bees. They were landing at the bases of the long narrow campanulate flowers as long as they were. It is calm and hot tonight after partly cloudy day in which clouds built up, but no rain except a few drops fell here. February 2--About 0630 hours. Sibley, Clapp, Ely, Huber, King and I leave on field trip to see Oahu birds not found in Honolulu. We drive through the agricultural (sugar cane and pineapple) central valley and find the small road which runs over the forested mountain shoulder to Waimea. When this becomes impassible to our rented vehicles, we walk. The forest below, on either side of our ridge road was a uniform coreaceous green, save for an occasional patch of lighter green of the ohia trees which are the mainstay for the flower-feeding birds of the Drepanididae.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 5 Here we soon spotted apapanes, Himatouine sanguinea, my first endemic native. These bright red birds make lots of noise, but at first they were hard to pick out among the thick foliage. A bit earlier we'd called Hill Robins, Leothrix lutea to us and heard the secretive Chinese thrush, Garrulax canorus. On up where some eucalyptus were abloom we saw the Amakihi, Loxops virens, some white-eyes, and at the highest point we visited, two ElepaioS, Chasiempis sandwichensis. A mammal believed to be a mongoose was seen briefly. Man seems to use this road very little, though two jeeploads of men resembling what we've heard of Castro's guerillas passed us there in "the Sierra." Next all of us except Ely, King,___ went to an area of ffallow fields and sugar cane residue with two dry or nearly-dry ponds at the head of the Waipio Peninsula in Pearl Harbor. Ricebirds, Lonchura punctulata, were numerous. Our Virginia Cardinal, Richmondena cardinalis, gave its characteristic call from the brush and some were seen as were a few Braxilian cardinals. In the open skylarks, Alauda arvensis, scoured and sang and we flushed cock then Ring-necked pheasant Phasianus colchicus seemingly pure form. A short-eared owl, Asio flammeus, was flushed from the grass and at the little pond about thirty shovelers, Spatula cylypeata, half a dozen black-necked stilts, Himenotopus mexicanus, and two American coot, Fulica americanus. Big flocks of black-headed maniakins, ___________, were seen in the grass. There were cattle egrets nearby. Several dried up dead toads were seen and one live one, greenish brown with yellow sides, 4 or 5 inches long. Back to Honolulu by noon.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 6 This afternoon I visit the zoo where there are pleasing outdoor cages of several storks and cranes I've not seen before, 3 spp hornbills, two of toucans, kookaburra, red-billed magpie, Hawaiian hawk, Ind. hill myna, and Bali white nyanh. Species I know nothing of in the wild seem happy enough, but I'm struck by the poor condition of black-rumped tanagers, American bison, pronghorn, and grizzly bear compared to those I've known in the wild state. A few peacock are loose in the Zoo, white pigeons, Columba livia, nest in the palms. Chinese barred dover vie with "bow-coo-spread raised tail" displays, and a flock of seventy- five mynas bathe in water turned on over lawn. We move to the ship tonight, setting ourselves up in rather restricted quarters. Finished the 4th. February 22--Jim Ludwig declined when I woke him at 0630 and told us to be back by 1000, so Doug and I took car east port Diamond Head and out to the koko head area stopping to view "blowhole," a small beach cave with an orifice through which the spray of surf below would occasionally be pushed geyserlike. Then to koko crater, open on the northeast with a large riding stables just outside. We walk into crater bottom on trail-road by a cactus garden of fifty or so spp. not very old. Both spp. cardinals and white-eye common in the mesquite, also both doves but no active nests do we find in the mesquite. We climb up to crater rim at rear and Doug flakes out but I head for top along curmibly lava rim grown
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 up with grass, catclaw accacia, prickly pear, a skinkbush-like Rhus (?), and other plants. Some sort of radar sta. occupying top, but I make short sojourn to actual high point where there's a small old concrete cubical (open-topped now) that probably dates from W. W. II. I continue over north to the other rim where the going is dangerous some places and see Doug on opposite rim descending. A pair of mynahs fly from the cliff. I am first back to the car at the ranch where I watch house Fincher while waiting for Doug. We also noted how marvelously adapted to each other the passion- flowers and these black bumble bees are the stamens of the former just brushing pollen on the backs of nectar-seeking bees and the stigmas picking it up. Finished May 25 February 26--Warren and I go eat waffles at a pancake house. Then get Pat to call Chuck Fly in Washington. King and Sundell on Oceanographic Cruise on 16 March. Bob Standen to come with rest of us on STARBRITE next month. Okay to go band red-feets on Kauai. I make reservations Aloha 1300 hours. We barely make it with our hotel bills to hash out and the traffic to dodge getting to airport. A bit late taking off; sitting right I get first view of W. Oahu and at 1338 first see Kauai, setting foot on Lihue asphalt runway at 1346. I rent National Rental Chevrolet Impala, but Warren driver. We grocery-shop incl. Macedonia- nuts, dried shrimp and seaweed. "Garden Isle" is right, what flowers and trees! See mynas, rice-birds, both Dover, house sparrow and as we progress northward through farming country a short-eared owl hunting by day. Pass spectacular needle of rock and go out to Kilauea Lighthouse
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 We turn in car at airport after an hour's nap in it, and fly home to Oahu. Check in at Waikiki Grand Hotel on 7th floor with fine view, cheaper than H. K. Jim's still on Maui. Warren, Doug, and I eat liver at my favorite place. This evening I drove out to airport to meet Bob (Robert Standen) Standen when he arrived at 2000, but missed him for which Pat declares me incompetent. February 29--Warren and I go windward side to climb Olomana if we can't find way to get to climb Olomana if we can't find way to get to Manana, but I think of Sea Life Park. We go there, meet ex Navy Lt. Jim Kelly from Midway (brought albatross, r. f boobies, and seals from there) in charge of birds. We help feed and nurse these, see place. Meet Earnie Barrister, Howard Jeffries, and eventually George Hanawshine, the boatman with his thick-glasses mate who take us four plus Jim and a porpoise trainer girl named Dottie Simpson out in dark through the reef (where no breakers broke) to Manana where we four get off, I with my kelty. Not as hard a landing as I'd expected. The Hawaii Fish and Game and University people didn't seem overjoyed to see us - said no birds were here. We went to see and found at least a couple thousand common noddy roosting on crater rim. Caught and banded 20L before moon came up and our lights went bad. Also three of four wedgetail shearwater we found under brush including a dark phase. The Polish (transplanted to New Zealand ?) Dr. Wodyicki (?) was very interested. Warren caught a sooty tern of small group that settled on point and took him up to show off too. We visited 361' summit. Turned in about midnight in messy blowing sand and showers.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 11 March 1--Grit, Warren and I go to top again and talk to University of Hawaii botanist Charles Lamoureux on crater rim about the tobacco and he points out a native plant (natives unrecorded by Richardson and Fisher 1950). He collected specimens. Says some tobacco in stomachs of some of thirteen rabbits they shot, though it's supposedly poisonous. Boat comes for us and we really get wet swimming to it with our gear. Warren pays $15 when we get back. We see Brazilian cardinal 35' up nest in 40' tree there by parking lot at Kaioua Beach. March 27--Raining today and when it's still that way this afternoon I am forced to agree with the others that we can't go to an offshore island on the windward side today so Chinaman's hat still unvisited. Letter from Davis - he hasn't security clearance and looks like he won't so he's resigning 3 April. About 0900 this morning, I drove out to Koko Head and climbed it and the hill of the small crater east of it and came back along Hanauma Bay where a dozen was breacking the reef for a boat passage. Shook a rat from tree nest. This eve Bob suggested we go see "Mad Mad World" at Cinema on King Avenue. Funny flock - at intermission manager announced tidal wave alert for North Shore residents, but I didn't think much about it till we passed a TV set returning to car about 2200. There I was shocked to learn epi-center of a large quake at 1736 hours was near enough Anchorage that my home city was wrecked. We were told we couldn't go home 'cause Waikiki was being evacuated for tidal wave and police cordons enforced it. Eventually we wound up at Koko Head but by then we'd heard
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 everything from only six dead and no servicemen to "hundreds dead with 80 per cent of Anchorage leveled; Seward in flames; Kodiak and Valdez washed practically off the map." How they mispronounced Valdez, Janeau, Whitehouse, Kenai etc. and how little they know of Alaska. All pwere and communication out save for some ham operators, temp down to 7 degrees F, gaping holes in downtown streets, houses tumbled into ice-choked turhagain, 1,000,000 gal. of jet fuel spilled on Int. Airport runway; railroad yards aflame, new cannery at Kodiak gone. At 0110 they let us go home after tidal waves only reached 6 to 7 foot maximums even on north shores though some of the recessions were spectacular. Telegraph no open. Sleep does not come easy. I think of hundreds killed in area where I have hundreds of friends. March 28--This morning we visit our ship (my first), meet naval Lt. Hawkins, talk, try to get into our storage area. Later I go to Red Cross in early afternoon, place telegram to go by ham from Seattle to Anchorage (ells) and tell the girl I'm Red Cross instructor who'd like to render aid. She ask s am I serous. I assure her I am and she takes me upstairs to introduce me to chief, who seems less impressed but takes my name and says they'll call me if they send anyone. Tell Pat when I get back, waking him to do. "Do you think it's that serous"? he says. I tell him I think the lives of my friends are of importance. He later agrees and would've let me go on my own. I'd thought of doing so, of course, but told myself that would be irresponsible. After all I'm unauthorized and probably not needed. Civil defense and
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 We land at Hilo at 0855, rent a car, and immediately see mynahs, rockdoves, and house sparrows in that order, but soon golden plover, house finches and spotted doves - also mongoose very plentifully. We grocery shop in town and locate Mr. and Mrs. Robert I. Baldwin through the city library. Members of a now-defunct bird club, they tell us much about the local birds and mention a gull with dark bill, legs, feet and band across tail, light under and gray mantle that was here this winter at pond south of airport. Next we try to get hold of Hawaiian Fish and Game man in town, then up at the Pohakuloa Station on the Saddle Road between the high peaks without success but see many skylarks and hear the Hawaiian thrush. Going on over the other side near Wakii we collect a male house finch d.o.r. (field No. 0659). Left testis 6 by 5.5 mm. See cock then ring- necked pheasant in open country and take highway 19 back to Hilo along windward coast, Larry collecting speeding ticket along way. This afternoon we drive in rain to Hawaiian Volcanoes Nat. Park Hg. where we talk to chief naturalist Dwight L. Hamilton, 1949 Colo. A and M. Grad., who gives us some excellent leads on reaching Mauna Loa crater and the offshore island of Keaoi and presents us a copy of Dumire's Birds of the Nat. Parks of Hawaii. At an overlook point by Kilauea Crater Larry kins a mongoose we'd picked up d.o.r. earlier (No. 0660) and we return to Hilo and talk to Ernest Kasaka of Haw. Fish and Game. He gives us some minor leads on dark-rumped petrels on Mauna Kea.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 16 After getting $6 room in Iolani Hotel I called Dr. Ely to confer and have Larry's binoculars sent here, then Larry and I go out to the pond south of the airport where we see at least three black-crowned night herons, three coots, two wandering tattlers and a male shoveler in the company of another duck which seems to be male and is tentatively identified as Gargoney teal. We collect a spotted dove to strip down for a skeleton (skin ruined by Larry hitting it too hard with Chevy Impala) and try to collect this latter-mentioned duck. Return to Iolani Hotel after dark. Bed 2230. April 23--Up before 0600 after cool night in the early part of which we had heavy rain. We drive up the Saddle Road, in on the Humuula Sheep Rmd to about 8500 feet and walk up to the 9000 foot forest camp. We'd seen six ruddy turnstones (one full breeding) about 8000 and Golden Flover to 9000, an pair of chukar partridge at 8800 and California quail at 9000. Encouraged by report of road condition by road worker on observatory road project, Larry rides back down to our vehicle in his pickup while I continue upward through timberline vegetation. At 11,000 I hear him honk and call below me so return to 10,500 where he cannot get up hill of loose dirt so we take our packs from there, but he soon gets a ride in a contractor foreman's jeep while I choose to continue afoot. Three D-8 cats are scraping out a track toward Maiau Lake (13,010' and are still 1/2 mile or so away and it's a mile from the Peak, but they expect to have it completed in a week. Larry followed this course, but I cut straight across and up slowly due to poor condition I'm in. But I've chosen right cinder cone and finally reach its rim and work
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 my way around to northeast side cairn on highpoint at 1415 and park my kelty pack on 2 1/2 foot high 4 foot dia. cairn that has 2 by 2 inche stake and 3 or four bamboo canes projecting from top 2 or 3 foot and one of the metal fence poles they marked the trail with lying nearby. Register book placed 14 May '61 and some notebook paper in "Mauna Kea" brand coffee can. Recognize Gibson Reynolds and Bruce Gilbert among registrants; also Dwight Hamilton twice. Partly cloudy and cold with wind blowing from northeast at 39° F. A dark fly 2 mm long and some black parasitic wasps 5 mm long I note as well as occasional cottonwood like seeds blowing by and a paper bag I pull from cairn has been partially shimshawed by c mouse! Larry had seen a mouse at the 9000' cabin. I wait over an hour, starting down about 1540 hours on the trail, which leads over large snowbank one registrant remarked was present in July to the base of the cone before I see Larry near top. I try to go back up to take his summit photo but he's left when I get there. Seems to be no seabird nesting habitat in these cinder cones. Highest plants are grass and a fern and some green moss all very sparse to 13,000. We descent by the sterile lake and old trail to the "Adze Cave" at about 11,000 where the ancients have chipped off huge pites of fine-grained basaltic rock. In one of the caves I find a midden and take bone material from its surface. Forgot to mention a battered modern surfboard at 12,000; that would have required quite a tidal wave! Dandelions are abloom above timber line near 10,000.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 We search and call for petrels and I disturb a golden plover at 9200 as I came down in dark. We make a fire and eat at shelter, then descend stopping after to listen and call. Couldn't stay up there without antifreeze tonight. We decide to stop by road near Po Game sta to visit them in morning, but unfortunately we're on military reservation and at a quarter after midnight a John Wayne-type lieutenant and two body guards give us a jeep escort off their land. We also have a brief altercation with a cow over right-of-way, but finally sack out again out of sight of the highway in low country. Noted goat hung above 12,500 and a skull lower today. horses sometimes used to climb the mountains. April 24--So we drive south at 0600 when the pheasants wake us to Puu Waawaa when the Dillingham Ranch is said to be outpost of the crows, but a mile or two before we reach it we have the pleasure of seeing a bright male wild turkey by the road. The ranch itself, besides many horses, has green pheasants, Ercol's Francolin, partridge, mourning (?) doves, and a pen of more exotic birds. In the area we also saw a smaller partridge, cardinals, and the barred dove. Near _______we pick up Japanese White-eye female d.o.i.r. Larry prepares later. We go on down to the south point of the Hawaiian group through fields of Tantana and further out, of grass but find no native birds there, only skylarks, English sparrow, mynah, and pigeons. One of latter had al. band left, blue band right. Casurina grove near the light.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 Next we drive to Volcanoes National Park and arrange to go to Keaoi Island tomorrow getting cabin key from rgr. S. Albright. Nothing known of other partidger or mourning doves. Back in Hilo we shop, then drive up Saddle Road to look for thrushes at the Kapukas between miles 17 and 18. See none but we do see, in the rain, apapanes, iiwi, amakihi and some introduced birds. (notes finished two days later). Larry tries to collect more doves with car down in low country, then we explore ____ Lava Cave at 4.1 miles from origin of highway 20 in Hilo, developed by the Lions Club and explored 4700 feet, we go back about 2500 feet together in dripping wet among ohia roots, then I go another 1000 feet alone. Dark by the time I come out so we go to the beach beyond our brackish duck lake to sleep. April 25--The pond this morning has our male shoveller and a coot. We soon head up to Volcanoes N. P. and up the Mauna Loa strip road to 6500 where there's a shelter and the trail sign says 18.5 miles to to their crater shelter. Call up amakihis there. See a green pheasant on way down. Next we go around Kilauea Crater to the Halemouman Overlook where we see at least 5 w. t. tropicbirds flying on the far side. A barren, windy place. We drive on to Kipuka Nene where a pack of cub scouts inquisetively watch us prepare for our trip. With packs we take the 7.2 mile trail down to Halapa shelter seeing about 500 goats enroute all of which ran when they saw us. Mostly pure black, a few with irregular white on belly or feet, fewer with brown, about four pure brown and two pure gray. One very fine billy had widely divergent horns. The kids baa and bleat. Halapa is in a coconut
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 pool strained through sand. These are the oldest kilauean rocks. U. S. C and GS brass cap on top under small cairn with fallen survey flagpost on board of which I write my name. From this "sacred Hill" I continue cross'country on half-vegetated lava toward Halina Palis seeing Golden Plovers and nyamahs out there. White eye in fairly far out brush too. And many goats. About 1205 hours, I finally reach the shelter at road end on Halina Pali and the tank of of rainwater is certainly welcome. I walk over a mile up the road and wait for Larry. We go refresh ourselves at Volcano store then go to Kipuka Puulu (Bird Park) where there is a 1.1 mile trail through magnificent forest. Many apapane, iiwi, amakihi, and I watch a scolding battle between white eyes and leothrix, the latter have terrifically varied voices. Next I hike in the "Footprints Trail" 1.8 mi. to Mauna Iki, 3032, a lava dome built up in 1921, while Larry talks to a ranger Al. Branson at Hq. about mongoose trapping. As evening comes we drive out Chain of Craters Road checking each crater for bird activity and I climb 3,400 Puu Huluhulu to check its crater. Pig-damage of vegetation is extensive there and we later see pig on road. Listening at craters in dark produces nothing. Larry uses heat escaping from a Fumarole to heat a can of chili. Slightly rainy, I call Dr. Ely from store and we patrol the roads trying to catch Golden Plover. Come pretty close to getting one or two. Back out to Kipuka Nene to sleep, Larry in car, I in shelter.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 April 27--This morning we return to Hilo and finally find Lyman Nidols in his office - turns out he got his masters in Game Management at Aggies in '57. Besides school talk, he mentions having seen w. t. tropicbirds in Mauna Loa crater. The smaller grouse we saw was probably gray franklin, and the teal we saw undoubtedly Gardanay Teal Anas querquedula, though he'd not seen it - we found picture in Japanese book. Says there are stilts in ponds. Suggests Puu Kanakaleonui, 9660 feet on northeast flank of Mauna Kea as probable nest site for dark-rumped petrels. So at noon we trade in our Impala for a Willys station wagon at the airport from a fat Kanaka from "Slim" Holt's. We'd gotten a gate key and map from Nichols, so we proceeded up the Mauna Kea Road to Hale Pohaku Rgr. Sta. again, then around the loop road at 9000 getting a good look at a Pueo (short-eared owl) at 8800. After passing through the Mouflon sheep refuge we came to Kanakaleonui and marked on Nichol's map not far below. A couple Hawaiian Fish and Game men were there and we got to talking with them - turns out they know about these birds, but say Harry who's coming soon knows more. They saw 'chirty mouflons today. Harry Ferguson comes with three old daughter, he's part native, found dark-rumps dead after storm up here in 1959, later droppings on rocks, and a burrow where he dug out an egg and returned to find it a chick. Sort of sore and reticent that he didn't get more credit, thinking they'd not been found for fifty years.
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 21 We drove up to the pass again and waited while it got dark. Then at 1910 hours I heard them come in - the first calls from the direction of the cinder cone. Larry didn't believe me at first, they were so faint he thought it was his stomach gurgling. But the eerie "Cooah-Coah- Cooah" became louder with some ptarmigan-like clucking on the end so we knew and rushed out and up the cone, but they weren't landing just circling the puu in apparent courtship flight, a pair with high and low voices and occasionally a third bird, though a fourth may also have occasionally been in the are. They seemed to come a little closer when we first imitated them and we saw their white bellies in our flashlights' beams, but they were more interested in their own gyrations. For two hours we enjoyed their music then went back south, I climbing 9096 feet up Puu Kaiwiwi on the way. We spied on animal I think was a mouflon sheep briefly as it crossed the road. Temperature at 2200 40o F. We drove up the new Mauna Kea Road to its present end at about 13,300 where the 2300 temperature was 31o F. I wanted to go on up but Larry didn't want to wait. So we went all the way out to the little road opposite Kuimana cave to sleep in jeep because of the rain. April 28--Gas up in town and wait around for post office to open to check for Huber's binoculars. Finally get started for Mauna Loa. I'd visited the weather station guy at the airport yesterday and he said there were no locked gates so we took the road off the Saddle Road just before the Puu Huluhulu but took two right turns that were wrong before we got on the long swith back of the weather station road which would have been passable by "Impala" to the 11,150' weather station whose big argon light we've been seeing
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 22 the last couple nights. Met Howard Ellis there, very friendly young chap in spite of all the RESTRICTED - NO TRESP. signs who says birds (he couldn't describe) sometimes are attracted by light up there. Many die, but he revives some with shot of oxygen. Tells us to drop back later. Now road is real jeep road up through loose cinders jagged aa and wrinkly pohoehoe. Barren Country. We switchback far east back over station, then back and gradually up the cloudy dome till at last the road ends at a desolate weather bureau shack we reach about 13,500. A half mile of cairns and stakes I follow alone from there over bubbly phoehoe to a small cairn 50' back from the awesome crater rim supporting twenty foot or so survey flag standard based on 1955 USGS brass cap guyed to smaller cairns in one of which was rusty condensed milk can with very few papers dating back to 1957 and including L. Nichols last year. Also couple wooden signs there painted up with military names and units 1959 and 1963. I throw rocks into crater and hear big roar (slides, not pele) but it's full of mist so I can't see if there are any tropicbirds. Back at jeep we decide to wait for it to clear so we sack out and more of the sleet we had a touch of earlier comes, then changes to real show which soon coats the jeep and parts of the ground, but then turns to slush or the precipitation switches to rain. By 1730 hours it is obvious that it won't clear sufficiently in the crater before dark so we start down, pausing at the small cinder cone about 12,000 to run over and listen from its top. Little cairn there, but no birds. (DID NOT FINISH -- L. H.)
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 25 April 29--Today we must return to Honolulu, but there are ends to tie up first. When I wake Larry and check his rat traps we are happy to find a clean black rat in one. Since ther's nothing to do down below this early, I walk up the trail over a mile seeing iiwis, amakihis, leothrix, and white eyes. Look hard for the hawk as we drive down but see only green pheasant hybrids. Stu Eranson looks under 25, is married, too impetuous to be regarded highly by his superiors, but he is naturalist not afraid to work and has some good ideas among erroneous ones. He vehemently opposes axis deer introduction presently vogue in Hilo papers, but thinks mongooses can be controlled by trappings. Dark hair, 5'7"ish, no glasses, husky. Slim Holt's man said he'd gotten two birds. Next to Baldwin's where Larry sits in jeep skinning rat while I talk with them getting more information on birds. They (or he anyway) have been here 37 years. He saw crow flock once and they frequently see hawks. He tries to find when sailor Ben King was here from his very sketchy diary (dates back to World War II at least). I gather he was some sort of policeman during war and Hilo High School librarian since then. Now retired, but plants windbreaks for the state. Black Brant, Garganay teal, duck hawk all spring of 1961. We pack, turn in jeep (they made good the cheating speedometer), catch Aloha plane to Honolulu via Maui at 1245, sitting on left for views. Mauna Kea and windward coast mostly clouded this morn, as was Haleakala, but while on Maui's strip. I saw flock of five pigeons, a bird Peterson doesn't mention for Maui. At Honolulu I call Ely's but the cars are busy so
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Hoeman, Vincent D. 1964 24 we take a cab to Hawaiian King where I have not much mail so soon get busy on reports. Dr. Ely calls from his place and I tell him what we accomplished, particularly regarding dark-rumped petrel. April 30--Write special report on dark-rumped petrel today and on article for Scree on Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa which I send to Helga and Marge. Jim finally came back from Maui - he found hundreds of dark-rumped in Haleskala Crater, but didn't actually see any on ground though he thinks they were on cliff which was inaccessible to him. Failed to get to Molokini. May 1--This evening L. Huber, K. Amerman, Long and myself paddle out 3/4 mile to Makulua's northern island (the larger) to use up the left of our wedgetail bands (740). Seemed a long way and we had to pass over a coral reef. Island lousy with wedgetails - we have no trouble banding all the bands we brought (I did 300+ myself). Observed three pair copulating, found pair of Bulver's in rock crevice, but Larry had the No. 2 string and banded sixty. We saw six pigeons there when we went to the 225' top before dark. Long collected lots of plants. Fisherman camp with tents on other island. Larry got another speeding ticket coming home over Pali. May 2--Tonight I was preparing to accompany the same three to Manana to band Sooty Terns, but chickened out at the last minute knowing I'd never finish Big Is. report tomorrow if I did. Larry and Ken each banded two thousand while Long collected plants and banded three hundred.