and clings tenaciously even to waxy species. Duco, or some similar clear plastic cement, is now preferred by many collectors, as it sets rapidly and is almost invisible. It must, however, be thinned with acetone or a thinner provided by the maker. The minute quantity of cement needed for entomological mending would, otherwise, become dry at the surface before the pieces to be joined could be brought into position. Plastic cements will not hold if the specimen is wet or oily, and in difficult cases shellac may be the only alternative. Whatever adhesive you prefer, keep it always at hand in a non-tip bottle with a tight stopper and needle applicator. A drawing ink bottle is readily adaptable to this purpose. One so used is shown in fig. 2. 7. A small camel's hair brush. If you have to buy this new, get a number-one round water-color brush. You will find it very useful for picking up pieces too delicate to handle even with forceps. It is only necessary to moisten the brush with water or alcohol and touch it to the fragment. A small drop of adhesive is applied at the proper spot on the insect, the detached piece placed against it and held for a few seconds, and the brush withdrawn. In stubborn cases it may help to put a little glue on the fragment as well as on the specimen before joining them. Fig. 2. A pinning block and glue bottle. 8. A pinning block. This is a piece of some penetrable substance upon which the specimen or label may be placed while the pin is driven through it. A piece of balsa wood, cut across the grain, does very well. An inch thick slice sawed from a roll of toilet paper, bound around the outside with adhesive tape or gummed paper, and plugged in the middle with a tight cork to keep it firm, will also give good service. Fig. 2 illustrates this kind of block. If the upper surface of the pinning block is not flat and smooth, sandpapering will soon make it so. When mounting a large lot of insects, particularly if many of them require individual setting to arrange the appendages, you may have need of several pinning blocks at one time. A sheet of cork or thin balsa wood plank about the size of a sheet of letter paper is also useful, especially when point-mounting some kinds of small insects as described below. Fig. 3. A pin gage in use. 9. A pin gage. This is used to measure the height of specimens and labels upon pins. A handy kind of pin gage is shown in fig. 3. It is a small block of hard wood, metal, or plastic, having in its upper surface holes of various depths. At the right, distinguished by the surrounding circle, is a hole half an inch deep and big enough to admit the head of a number five pin. When a specimen has been pinned, its position is adjusted by putting the head of the pin in the bottom of this hole and pushing the insect's back down close against the surface of the block. Note that the hole is so close to the edge of the block that a point-mounted specimen projects beyond it and is not dislodged when the position of the point is determined. At the left of the block is a row of holes, 5/8", 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" in depth. These may be of the same diameter as the first hole, or some- what smaller, large enough to accommodate the shaft of a number five pin. They are numbered in the order in which the labels are placed upon the pin, the highest first. As soon as the point of the pin has passed through the label it is inserted into the approp- riate hole and pushed to the bottom. The label will then stand at the proper height upon the pin. Of course, you will not have to use all of these holes all