C. Koford 192 Journal Chile Tarapaca August 28, 1952 To nr. Zapiga Prov. Atacama Clear stream for several miles passing carabinero station at Oboca Cuya. Brake worn leaf of a spring of trailer and delayed while wiring this up for travel. Camped near river Tara before reaching Zapiaga. Road to Caritaya, 113 km. inland from Carretera Panamericana, takes off at edge campo N. of Tara river. This again a clear small stream. August 29, 1952 To Iquique Prov. Tarapaca A control at Zapiaga, W to small town in salitre desert, but roads better from here S. & often paved. On to Iquique, turning towards coast from the salitre oficina of Humberstone (50km. N. to S.). A control at top of hill before descending 600 ft. to the coastal plain. Iquique on a point where this plain about 2 miles wide; only a few hundred yards wide in some sections. Stayed at Best Hotel, parking trailer in enclosed yard. The town looks British & 1890's-ish, not Spanish. Rather industrial & smoky. Many horse drawn vehicles. Many people English appearing but Spanish speaking. Designs already gabled architecture. Most buildings wood. Handle-bar mustachier. Hotel modern with good food & more expensive than in Peru. As in Peru, 20% added to bill for tax & propina. Swordfishing here too, but off the streams of seal birds a few hundred yards offshore (as in Africa) absent.