1983 22 January (continued) The others, minutes later, we were diving and bathing in the Rio, ¡Pura Vida! Eladio is ecstatic and bubbling about our good luck. He dashes around, building a fire up in the house, frying coffee and hot chocolate. Soon it's dark, and by candlelight we eat the last "dinners" of egg y applesauce, and cheese. Cathy heads for the tents, pitched down by the river, and Isidoro starts to press plants. (Forgot: after bathing I walked/stumbled up a tiny cascade coming into the stream from the south, trying to catch some sort of frogs that have a squealing chrous every dawn and dusk around here in fast moving streams. Can't find them. My feet-the soles-are so tender I can barely walk on the river stones, at least two ringed kingfishers are flying up and down the river and squawking when we were bathing). The floor of the house is splattered w/ scattered cow shit, most of it old and crusty. A breeze goes thru the rooms. We sit by two candles and talk of happiness, women, fear. Then slept ~1/4 hours, pretty well. 23 January Next morning we're up at dawn and have a leisurely breakfast of tuna, cheese, granola, and coffee. While Isidoro packs plants and cleans his face I look around the back room of the house. On one wall is an outline drawing of a man in