Greene, H. 1980 18 November Flew to Cusco, arrived at Hotel El Dorado at ¡≈930. Slept 'til noon, walked around Plaza de Armas, and ate lunch. At 1400 took Lima Tours on a route to ruins above city and about town. Supper was lucha alla vasca, trout w/ garlic ¦ tomato sauce-excellent. Saw llamas, alpacas, bunows, sheep, ¦ many Indians on tour. Also very old ("85") playing an instrument and chanting musically but monotonously (some). 19 November Rose early and caught the 0700 tourist train to Machu Picchu. Our reserved seats were across from a strange Latin couple: he looked like the late Nicaraguan dictator, w/ sun glasses, pot belly, etc ¦ chain-smoked. She wore heavy lipstick, dark glasses, a fur jacket, and bright red shoes and pants. First to series of switchbacks - each ending in a sharp jolt when the train stopped - to rise out of el valle de Cusco. Then gradually descended from over 12000 feet to ¡≈6000 feet in the gorge of the Rio Urubamba. Along the way couldn't see mountains tops for clouds, but surroundings for first ¡≈2 hours were very open-grassland, cattle, Indians. Late became steeper near tracks, some cacti, shrubs, bromeliads, and eventually