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The snow petered out when we were still high in the Sierras. Interesting coniferous forests below this altitude; a dense closed forest in the hollows between ridges, containing a number of species of trees. In the foothills, large grey-leaved shrubs, which perhaps belong to the chaparral formation, grew densely among the pines. Small apple orchards, mostly neglected or abandoned, began here.
The great, heavily peopled Sacramento Valley was disappointing where we crossed it. Rich land, all of which seems to have been cultivated down to salt water. But few acres were actually under crop at this time of year. In fact, most of it looks as if it had been fallow for more than one season. Saw only a few patches of truck crops, and some big pear orchards. Palms are planted as ornamentals, but not in great numbers. Probably the climate is too cold for most species. Tall eucalypts were common toward the coast.
Sacramento, capital of California, is a poor advertisement for the state as seen from the train. The slummiest town I have ever seen. Big sections of little wooden shacks. These slum areas are a disgrace, even if they are only occupied by migrant farm workers, which I doubt.
My train journey ended at Oakland, where we transferred to a ferry for the half-hour run across to San Francisco. Landed at Market Street at 6:50, on time, but well after dark. San Francisco's high skyline of brightly-lit buildings looked almost as impressive as Manhattan's, as seen from the ferry boat.
I wired from the train for a reservation at the Whitcomb Hotel, on Market & 8th Streets. Upon arrival there by taxi I found the public rooms crowded and not a little noisy with San Francisco's Irish, who are holding their annual shivoo in the hotel. It is a moderate price hotel, but I was put into a room which looks rather expensive. "as unable to raise the Matson Line by phone to check on the sailing time of the "Marine Phoenix." According to the phone book the passenger office is on the phone all night. Perhaps the employees are all Irish.
Took a stroll about town looking for a place to get a quick meal, and ended up at Original Joe's, where you sit at a counter and see your food cooked. Good food, attractively served, ample, and reasonably priced. Good-looking, charcoal-broiled steaks were $1.75. Joe's is an Italian place. Eating places of that type seem common downtown. Saw several in a few blocks. Some plush-looking eating places close to my hotel.
Quite a lot of Japanese in the streets, and negroes whose blood has been well diluted with white. North of New York the absence of a color bar is noticeable. Whites and negroes mixed freely in Chicago. "as told by Rhea Pand that negroes shop in the best stores and no one thinks anything of it. On my train to the west coast white and negro soldiers travelled together in the Pullmans, etc., together in the dining car, and some of the negroes frequented the club car.
In San Francisco I am again in a city that looks out on the world and takes keen interest in what goes on overseas. Since leaving New York the San Francisco "Chronicle" is the only paper I have seen that gives a good coverage of world news and the broader aspects of national news. A very good paper. On short acquaintance it looks better by far than the New York Times. More liberal in view, and it is the only paper I have seen that does not hide in its columns news that is unpalatable to conservative Americans who like to think that their leaders in the State Dept. and in the European dog-fight can do no wrong. It prints, where everyone can see them, very frank reports on international affairs. Most of the mid-western and western papers I read on the train give no international news at all on their front page, and not much anywhere else. It is