1948 Archbold Cape York Expedition December 8, 1947 to December 4, 1948
Page 365
Image from the Biodiversity Heritage Library. Contributed by American Museum of Natural History Library. | www.biodiversitylibrary.org
Transcription
clothed. Housing is about what one would expect in a country in which the great bulk of the population is very poor in terms of money, the climate is mild, and there is an active government health department. Notwithstanding comments to the contrary by our ship's officers and passengers, I should call Port of Spain a clean city. It is an old place, with narrow lanes of streets, pavements only wide enough for two people to walk abreast as a rule, and crowded little two- storied houses and shops with overhanging balconies. The streets are remarkably clean; and free of garbage. The markets are as clean and tidy as any I have seen. In the country villages we saw, some of the houses were very small. Many of them were only one-room cabins, of-sawn boards or lathe and mud construction. But the villages and cabins looked clean. And even the humblest cabin had curtains hung in its doorway and window openings. Crotons, hibiscus, and other ornamental plants grew in all the villages. There was none of the crude squalor that one sees in negro quarters in the southeastern U.S. The negro of Trinidad seems as settled in his country, and as much a part of it, as, for instance, the Javanese in Java. The town-dwelling negro seems thoroughly adjusted to his surroundings; the villager is a small agriculturist, or laborer, or trader, who looks as though he had always been what he is now, and might always remain so. In the city and in the villages the people were always friendly in their attitude toward us, and most pleasant when spoken to. The only exceptions were some of the Hindu women who had stalls in the markets of Port of Spain. In their behaviour there was no trace in the negroes of Port of Spain of the insolence and resentment towards whites which is so common in the United States. When I mentioned this to Ross, he assured me that there is actually a good deal of unrest in Trinidad. There were serious riots in 1937, and something approaching a revolt some years before that. The unrest is anti-white. The present center of it is the sugar districts and oil fields of the south. The leader is a negro from Granada, who was prominent in the 1937 riots and was kept locked up during World War II. This leader has a regularly employed band of 300 to 500 thugs, used in intimid- ation campaigns and setting fire to property. In support, behind the scenes, is a Hindu of peasant farmer stock who owns most of the movie theaters in Trinidad and is a very wealthy man. Until recently, when he was dismissed by the Governor, this Hindu was a member of the appointed Legislative Council. His dismissal is expected to further lead to further underground actions on his part against the government and against white supremacy. Ross is of the opinion that serious trouble might break out during the next sugar harvesting season. The insurgent elements have arms. It is known that firearms and grenades have been stolen in quantity from the U.S. bases, following reduction of garrisons to little more than a maintenance level since the end of the war. The government is entirely dependent upon native police for maintenance of law and order. There is no British military force on the island. In view of all this, a current concert tour of Paul Robeson is causing some speculation. Robeson arrived the day we did. The negro population has gone wild over him. The governor attended his first concert. He has been given the freedom of the city. And no doubt he is being closely watched by the security service. It is being remarked that, for a negro who is so prominent a champion of his race, Robeson's prices are pretty high. Port of Spain, being on a main air route to eastern South America, is accustomed to have world famous artists stop off to give concerts, at $2 to $4 for tickets. Robeson is charging $4, $5 and $10. These prices are above the means of most negroes. Thousands stood outside the building in which the first concert was held, listening, or trying to hear the voice of their hero, while seats remained unsold. Most of the people we came in contact with on our goings about were of the negro element. They are a people of very mixed blood. Few of them have the depth of color of the pure negro. Was astonished at the high quality of English in general use. Very good English spoken with broad vowels and a full soft accent. The standard was maintained even in arguments between police and taxi drivers.