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Transcription
108
Recce. Lufa-Gono
in forest above the road; a few small ones in Castanopsis forest gullies cutting
across the road. Lufa, 6500 ft., reached at 5123 miles. Were told there that
the distance from Goroka is 47 miles by road; according to a road sign at the
government HQ in Goroka it is 50 miles.
Patrol Officer, Jock Aitkin, in charge of Lufa, had been away on patrol
on the very rough country towards the Papuan border for two weeks and was not
expected back for another 10 days. We were very hospitably received by Mr. and
Mrs. Bill McSeveny, European Medical Assistant i/c native hospital (only other
official there was a native schoolmaster trying to teach, and look after under
boarding school conditions, about 50 native children). After a cup of tea,
Bill McSeveny joined us for the l2-mile drive around Mt. Michael to Gono on the
south or SE slopes. Road opened for traffic only last November. Like most roads
on the Highlands, the route was marked or chosen by a non-engineer patrol officer
and the work done by natives with picks and shovels under the supervision of
native police boys. The Gono road was an excellent job in most parts. The
country very steep. All the route from a mile or so past Lufa through primary
tall forest which seemed to be mainly beech. Highest point on the road 7680 ft.
at a place called Hogave (no habitation or clearing). In about 1 hour 20 minutes
we came to Gono Resthouse on the edge of population again at 6600 ft., 5128 miles.
Good newly built "house kiap" and ancillary buildings surrounded by tight high
pig fence. By this time rain had set in and mist was beginning to drift up from
a rugged valley to the SE. Could not see much, but McSeveny, who had been on
medical patrols through all this area, said good forest occurred on easy slopes
within a few minutes walk of the resthouse.
Having inspected the resthouse accommodations, we went on about 1/4 mile
to the end of the road at Gono Mission, 6550 ft. This one of several missions
in this general area established by the Faith Mission of the U.S.A. Gono was
started four years ago by (Rev.?) Ben Wertz and is being well developed by him.
Tall, gangly, pleasant Californian, very unmissionary-like in rough clothes and
leather work gloves (the only work gloves I have seen in New Guinea), Wertz was
toiling in the mist and rain with two visiting Faith men whose Chev. pick-up was
bogged in the mission grounds. We were invited in for coffee and ice cream.
The coffee was Nescafe, for Mrs. Wertz admitted she had failed to make anything
drinkable by roasting and grinding New Guinea coffee beans; the ice cream was
of the mix variety out of a packet, for the four cows of the Mission were not
yet i/j milk. The working parts of the hand-powered ice cream machine had been
subject to Customs duty as "refrigerator parts."
Got a late start on the return drive and arrived at Lufa at 6:30 p.m.
Rain and mist contimued until we were well around the mountain towards its
western slopes. On this part of the drive we had views of some very remarkable
cloud effects: a great white cloud bank pouring over Gono Spur from the SE; a
great cloud pile over Mt. Wilhelm illuminated by the setting sun, etc. Mt. Elimbari,
a striking limestone mass near Chuave, very conspicuous.
At Lufa we were put into the absent patrol officer's house to sleep, and
dined with the McSevenys. They live in a grass-thatched house with walls and
floors of plaited, split pit-pit (wild sugarcane). Wide, shuttered windows give
a fine view over the Asaro Gorge. Living room tastefully furnished and very neat.
McSeveny's mother there on a visit from Sydney. Lufa patrol post was established
as recently as 1953. Until at least 1955 (according to a map on the admin. office
wall) the Gono area was uncontrolled territory. The most remote part of the Lufa
area, down on the Papuan border, was declared under control and open to all comers
less than a year ago. According to McSeveny, the people down there are still