Journal, L.J. Brass : 6th Archbold Expedition to New Guinea March 14 1959 to January 24, 1960
Page 215
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Transcription
108 Recce. Lufa-Gono in forest above the road; a few small ones in Castanopsis forest gullies cutting across the road. Lufa, 6500 ft., reached at 5123 miles. Were told there that the distance from Goroka is 47 miles by road; according to a road sign at the government HQ in Goroka it is 50 miles. Patrol Officer, Jock Aitkin, in charge of Lufa, had been away on patrol on the very rough country towards the Papuan border for two weeks and was not expected back for another 10 days. We were very hospitably received by Mr. and Mrs. Bill McSeveny, European Medical Assistant i/c native hospital (only other official there was a native schoolmaster trying to teach, and look after under boarding school conditions, about 50 native children). After a cup of tea, Bill McSeveny joined us for the l2-mile drive around Mt. Michael to Gono on the south or SE slopes. Road opened for traffic only last November. Like most roads on the Highlands, the route was marked or chosen by a non-engineer patrol officer and the work done by natives with picks and shovels under the supervision of native police boys. The Gono road was an excellent job in most parts. The country very steep. All the route from a mile or so past Lufa through primary tall forest which seemed to be mainly beech. Highest point on the road 7680 ft. at a place called Hogave (no habitation or clearing). In about 1 hour 20 minutes we came to Gono Resthouse on the edge of population again at 6600 ft., 5128 miles. Good newly built "house kiap" and ancillary buildings surrounded by tight high pig fence. By this time rain had set in and mist was beginning to drift up from a rugged valley to the SE. Could not see much, but McSeveny, who had been on medical patrols through all this area, said good forest occurred on easy slopes within a few minutes walk of the resthouse. Having inspected the resthouse accommodations, we went on about 1/4 mile to the end of the road at Gono Mission, 6550 ft. This one of several missions in this general area established by the Faith Mission of the U.S.A. Gono was started four years ago by (Rev.?) Ben Wertz and is being well developed by him. Tall, gangly, pleasant Californian, very unmissionary-like in rough clothes and leather work gloves (the only work gloves I have seen in New Guinea), Wertz was toiling in the mist and rain with two visiting Faith men whose Chev. pick-up was bogged in the mission grounds. We were invited in for coffee and ice cream. The coffee was Nescafe, for Mrs. Wertz admitted she had failed to make anything drinkable by roasting and grinding New Guinea coffee beans; the ice cream was of the mix variety out of a packet, for the four cows of the Mission were not yet i/j milk. The working parts of the hand-powered ice cream machine had been subject to Customs duty as "refrigerator parts." Got a late start on the return drive and arrived at Lufa at 6:30 p.m. Rain and mist contimued until we were well around the mountain towards its western slopes. On this part of the drive we had views of some very remarkable cloud effects: a great white cloud bank pouring over Gono Spur from the SE; a great cloud pile over Mt. Wilhelm illuminated by the setting sun, etc. Mt. Elimbari, a striking limestone mass near Chuave, very conspicuous. At Lufa we were put into the absent patrol officer's house to sleep, and dined with the McSevenys. They live in a grass-thatched house with walls and floors of plaited, split pit-pit (wild sugarcane). Wide, shuttered windows give a fine view over the Asaro Gorge. Living room tastefully furnished and very neat. McSeveny's mother there on a visit from Sydney. Lufa patrol post was established as recently as 1953. Until at least 1955 (according to a map on the admin. office wall) the Gono area was uncontrolled territory. The most remote part of the Lufa area, down on the Papuan border, was declared under control and open to all comers less than a year ago. According to McSeveny, the people down there are still