Lae-Goroka Wide stretches of grass beyond the Leron. At 64 miles stopped to photograph a section in which thousands of low cycads grew in the grass (Cycas media?). Looks like the species of the Port Moresby savannas, and like one which appears less commonly on the grass patches near Lae, in the Bulolo and Snake River valleys, and I think also at Wau. Six miles beyond the Leron we had some trouble in crossing a small, clear river on which a steel bridge was left useless by the south bank being washed away. The ford was gravelly and looked good, and the two boys were sent wading across to test it for depth and firmness. But on the far side we were slowed by a slight lip under the water, the rear wheels began to dig in and the engine stalled. By quick rocking on the gears we got out, but it was touch and go. The only real trouble we had on the trip. Evidences of only very scattered native population were seen in the valley until we reached the Maniang River at 74 miles. The river, now bridged, has a soft shaly bottom and was the worst ford on the road. A fair sized new village on the south bank. Conical grass roods reminiscent of East Africa. Bananas the staple food and quantities of sweet potatoes also grown. The Works Department maintained the road, and occasionally used a grader on it, to this point. Beyond on the Markham lowlands maintenance was by village people, who turned out Mondays to do necessary work. At Dabu village (78 miles) we saw the first women in grass skirts and naked above the waist. We were getting away from the "civilization" of the coast. At 12:30 (94 miles, 1600 ft.) the level grassy valley of the Markham had narrowed to perhaps 2 miles and the road headed for the forested foothills of the Finisterres where the Umi tributary came down from a very narrow, almost gorgy valley. Skirting the steep slopes in a narrow cutting which heavy vehicles would not be able to get through, we crossed a branch of the Umi on a swing bridge 20-30 yards long (bridge hung on 2 x 2 inch steel cables and decked with Marsden matting). A big carved wooden figure, obviously female, stood at the near end of the bridge, and a male figure at the far end. In another mile we crossed the main Umi on another swing bridge. This one fifty yards long, 20-30 feet above the fast gray water in the middle, bouncy to walk on, and dipped to one side. I walked across to get photos of the crossing while John drove. The driving not difficult, he said. On the far side of the Umi we stopped at a pleasant shady place to eat lunch (cold roast chicken and billy tea). A road camp of two old but still good thatched buildings here is sometimes used as a resthouse by travelers. Ten cases of ancient-looking gelignite in one building, a couple of wheelbarrows andsome picks and shovels. In forest here, but there were no big trees and the forest looked young. It would be worth 3-4 days of our time. The grass hut without gelignite would provide good boy's quarters and a veranda for us to work under, and there was good ground for a tent and fly. Moved on from the Umi at 1:35 and soon were out in the main, grassy valley of the Markham again (heavy vehicles ford the Umi some distance below the swing bridge). Rather numerous villages, marked from a distance by groves of tall coconut palms. At 101 miles (1500 ft.) we stopped in Maratumi village to make pictures and try to buy some betelnut for our boy's use on Mt. Wilhelm. Could get only one bunch (plenty there, but growing at some distance from the village).