Iter Antarcticus

Record

1 Ster Antarcticae Carroll W Dodge 1961 October 20 – November

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3 Oct 20 left St Louis 5:30 PM CST Eastern Air Lines Flight 410 arrived Washington, Hotel Stalis about 9:30 Oct 21 Up at 6 AM breakfast at Pancake House checked out 6.50 AM Andrews At Base 7:30 left 7:30 AM 7 am's A F Base 5 PM left 7 PM Oct 22 Arrived Hickam A F Base 1:30 AM to transient quarters, morning market afternoon to Bishop Museum returned 5:30 PM supper to bed at 9 PM Oct 23 checked out of bachelor quarters left Hickam A F base 7.50 Canton Island 5:30-6 PM refueling, Nandi Terminal Fiji Island 10 PM left 1 AM the 25th Oct 25 Arrived Christchurch International Airport at 8.15 AM after immigration and customs met Mr Goodale and taken to Gainsborough Hotel 264 Bailey St between airport & center of town, cleaned up and called Prof WR Philipson University of Canterbury spent the afternoon at the Botany Department and evening at home of Prof Emeritus CE Fowler Jr. met Mr McDeville from New Zealand and two other older men Hosts were charming evening delightful. Returned to Hotel at 1:30 AM Oct 26 Rudolph left at 8 returned on PM. Prof Philipson called at 10 down to mention intercept

4 Cast Coal Station and to at Castle Rock then to Arthur Pass National park stopping to collect Crustose species at Castle Rock only small Usneas at Cast. Several species of Stictaceae large and a abundant on trunks of Nothofagus Nuplondae and one or two species of Sphaerophorus and a Stereocaulon on mossy rocks. A curious organic on decaying slab of Nothofagus. At top of Pass several crustose spp noted bed rock very hard. Hypogymnia + perhaps Menegazzia in shrubs just above bases where protected from the strong winds. One or two Usneas at upper edge of Nothofagous forest past below the Pass for fanticher's Zooloan zoo-log it went with us. Then to the hotel about 6 PM had supper watched television a little while and went to bed. Oct 27 Took a short walk to buy a new pen in forenoon walked downtown for lunch and window shopping returning about 3 PM Rudolph et al returned from trip to Arthur Pass and finally left for Mc Mundo at 10 PM. Watched television in evening (educational) Oct 28. Walked downtown for lunch all shops and most restaurants closed. Pressed specimens. Read most of afternoon Television in evening

5 localities oct 26 1961 Limestone outcrop Castle Hill Broken River Basin Cass Biological Station 1850' Beach Forest Healey River Valley 600 m Arthur Pass National Park on roadside near summit of Arthur Pass On rocks/shrubs summit of arthur pass October 29. Read for a while after breakfast started to the Trinity Congregational Church at 1030 service a N. Zealander after church met Rev. Maurice Hoelder (wife from Min- neapolis, trained in Boston University They invited me home to dinner (974 Colombo St). Good American cooking. leg of lamb potatoes peas and leeks. Very enjoyable conversation. Fine weather since I arrived. Christchurch on a large plain not far from the sea. River runs through the city, banks a beautiful public park. Business district in center, builds mostly 2-3 stories high. Residential areas houses 1-2 stories with tile or corrugated iron roofs painted red. "Fireplaces in all homes I have seen. Beautiful borders of shrubs and perennials Rhododendrons in all their glory and many shrubs I do not recognize some Rosa and Iris (flower stalks 21/2-3 feet high/Wisteria

6 all very colorful, most in bloom. Usually a small lawn in center. A great many introduced shade trees from various north temperate regions. Street wide with many narrow lanes leading off having 2-4 houses on them. Occasional small low apart- ment houses. Climate mild, snow very rare. Rainfall about 25 inches so gardens have to be watered much of the year, apparently in rain shadow as mountains of west coast have 200 inches of Canterbury. The University is downtown growing crowded. Planning a new campus on outskirts of city but construction not started. Buildings late Victorian gothic of dark gray stone with white trim, many small temporary wooden buildings behind main buildings. A good botanical garden nearby. University has small teaching herbarium. Principal herbarium in the vicinity is at Science Research Institute at Lincoln 15? miles out. The university maintains a small biological station at Cass for the study of alpine ecology. No lichenologist but several interested in connection with ecological studies.

7 Oct 30 Orders to check baggage this morning preparatory to flying at 10AM tomorrow spent morning packing and repacking baggage, lunch at airport Hope I made no mistakes. Baggage weight 58 lb person 153 Oct 31 Started in cargo carrying Globemaster at 1000 with seats along sides of upper cargo deck much less comfortable than previous planes but quite bearable. First 1½ - 2 hrs over South Island of New Zealand then over open water mostly above clouds. The last 3 hrs over pack ice with few leads, get the last two along the coast of South Victoria land mountains, some fiords. Landed smooth on sea ice descended the cargo ramps as there are no tail steps available. USARP vehicle waiting to take us to village. We Temporary visitors in a frameaway but similar to Quonset but with insulated canvas wall, named Ross Hilton. Cubicles with iron cots bedding and an orange crate night stand. Head (latrine) in separate building, several houses down the street on way to mess hall. after heavy midnight meal got to bed about 1230AM Nov 1. Up at 7AM ample time for breakfast. unpacked bag wrote Bertha and took a walk.

8 To Hut Point, Scott's first base, thence down to the sea ice and back near the shore. Fair weather not very cold but no melting (a little in late afternoon. After lunch visited the N.Z. Scott Base. The director showed us a remarkable ice cave formed in a snow bank on shore caused by a crack in the bay ice at the shore. Entered on hands & knees, then stood up and penetrated some distance. The stalactites (icicles) were not very large but "furry" from snow crystals. Then to the dog colony, the only group still using dog teams. We visited a long pressure ridge where the shelf ice meets the bay ice. One has a better idea what the earlier explorers faced in getting through it with men-hauled sledges. Thence to the base itself. Originally planned as temporary for the International Geophysical year, it has needed some remodeling. Several buildings connected by tunnels. Had tea in the admin-istration building. Fourteen men over-winter with about 30 men in summer. Mess hall pleasant with good library about half narratives of polar exploration.

The other half fiction etc. Postoffice with Ross for Dependency stamps. After tee drove back to McMurds and visited the biological laboratory administered by a Stanford Prof Wollheide man interested in physiological ichthyology. Very well equipped somewhat crowded. Probably will get some local lichens from them. One working on sponges t starfish another Pycnogonids Microbiologist interested in bacteria and fungi. Discussed a wide range of biological problems, field work etc. Returned to supper and room. [9200 miles to Washington DC] November 2, Up at 7AM rather chilly temp about 8° F. Breakfast pancakes w/ maple syrup. Wrote Mary, saw 53lb fish caught last night, the largest on record. In afternoon tour of weather station and com- munication center and down to see where hydrographer charting contours of shore line currents etc for location of sewer outlet for Base. Further south for location of water intake for nuclear reactor. Wind about 20 knots. Also short visit to Cosmic Ray Lab. At 8 PM visited the fishing holes with 2 young ichthyologists. Dredge at deepest hole yielded practically nothing. Visited other holes to see facilities. Bacr a little.

10 after 10 PM and went to bed. November 3 woke up too late for breakfast but had a cup of coffee some coffee cake at Barracuda at 9 went down to air strip and boarded a small single engined plane. When warmed up took off about 9:30 AM headed for foot of Bebenham Glacier to the west and flew up the next dry valley to the north. Sides had small hanging valley glaciers and small poolson valley floor, stratified bands of pale rock and black (volcanic ash?) glacier in upper part of valley soil cracked in hexagonal areas, cracks filled with snow at 5000 feet little vegetation seen except possible stands of Usnea and Umbilicaria in a few cases. Flew to the ice fields above the glaciers thence northward and down another glacier to coast, with a little open water beyond the coastal ice shelf and back to the air strip about noon. The more distant peaks and nunataks had a decided bluish purple color in contrast to the shining white icefields. Mr Bourne, officer of Defence Attaché British Embassy Washington left for New Byrd this noon. Mr Gjelvre, Norwegian Polar Institute and Mr Robin of Scott Polar Institute leave this week and Bank fatigue notes in afternoon.

11 November 4. Breakfast at 7AM milder weather no wind Took helicopter to Cape Evans, headquarters of Scott's last expedition Collected on exposed volcanic boulders. Plochers seen on rocks where skuas gulls had been rooting. Ross Barrier ice just beyond where anchored to Ross Island Returned to our ship just as the Christchurch plane unloading reporters after lunch attended their briefing, supposed to move to other quarters but somehow arrangements fell through and spent the night here. November 5. Got to breakfast just as mess hall closed but managed to get scrambled eggs tea and doughnuts; clear but windy Paul Dupe returned from the Pole last night and I spent the morning visiting with him so did not get to chapel, afternoon finished letter to Bertha and wrote Paul Dodge. Bunk fatigue Trying to get rid of an incipient head cold. November 6 Awoke at 5 30 AM weather overcast, can barely see hut; starship snowforecast Cleared about noon & flights resumed Wrote Miles and Alconero. Long visit with Dr G Robin (pronounced Rō'bin) of Scott Polar Institute Cambridge England about Antarctic research. Bunk fatigue but head cold persists

12 Visited with Mr A Grant a stockbreeder near Dunedin aged 73 with 7 children & grandchildren compared nation farming. NZ farms rated in butter fat production per acre in his region Aberdeen graduate in Agriculture, apparently quite wealthy, guest of Adm Tyree November 7. Up at 5:15 dressed cold weather and emergency called for at 6 and taken to the airstrip mess for breakfast Weather held us up and we did not fly until 10:30 Mr Bourne and I were the only passengers so we climbed ladders to the cockpit no windows so we saw nothing until we reached the foot of Boar more Glacier then we were invited to stand behind the pilot and copilot while the plane climbed the glacier about 2000 ft above the glacier The lower peaks and ridges are sharp with hanging and side glaciers in the upper part near the rim of the polar plateau they are mesa-like until the top top looks almost like a dissected peneplain Large eroded areas but scouting from the air would reveal feasible routes of apparently gentle slopes. When we reached the plateau we retired to our seats for sandwiches and orange and pineapple juice when Pole Station was visible in the distance we again took stations behind the

13 pilot and copilot for the drops. We made three runs dropping 89600 lbs mostly diesel oil. To my surprise there was little friction in the plane as the drops were released. Then we flew over the circle of oil barrels marking the South Pole and headed for the top of Beardmore glacier. Weather exceptionally clear at the pole during the drops. We took our stations for the flight down the glacier. The lighting was different but it was beginning to be hazy. Halfway down we passed another plane going up for a drop. We got in just after the mess hall closed. WARD failed to meet us but we telephoned from the mess hall and waited for the "bus" to pick us up. When I got back to the Ross Hotel found Bertha's 2nd letter and was moved to the USARP permanent quarters, more crowded but more comfortable in some ways. Miss Hall and Head much farther away. Mr Bourne left for Christchurch at midnight November 8' up at 7 after good nights sleep. High clouds obscure the sun. Head cold not cleared up yet. Stayed in quarters most of day reading the book of The 94 Eagle Scout. Admiral Tyree invited me to dinner at Flag Quarters as they are less than 100 feet from our back door. I decided on indoor dress. I wore

14 my vest + red wool sweater, dark green serge trousers and only two pair of socks with fur lined rubber soled slippers with parka as outdoor wrap. The [illegible] called for me at 6 PM to meet me and introduce me. Prof Clarke, prof of geology at Victoria University in Wellington, Mr [illegible] representative of the Martin Co of Baltimore which is installing the nuclear reactor, Lt Col Wiedmeyer of the Air Force The Naval officer maintaining the airstrip and a Captain commanding the Sea Bees were the guests. After dinner we were joined by Mr Tannment, the NZ Minister of Education and a NZ Brigadier General who had landed at the Pole Station for three quarters of an hour. After introductions we sat and visited nibbling [illegible] whiskey (except me) about 7 PM dinner was served. First tomato soup + crackers, lobster salad, roast mutton small potatoes, endrawn butter peas and cauliflower, finally lemon pie (same as I had for lunch in the mess hall Today. Conversation was varied and interesting. The admiral skillfully keeping any one person from monopolizing it. The meal ended with coffee + cherry brandy as we sat around the table conversing. The weather man came in about 8:15 for the nightly briefing. Usually

15 this is the signal for the guests to depart therafter. Instead we adjourned to the easy chairs at the other end of the room and kept up a steady flow of conversation until about 10.15 PM when we departed. I was back in quarters and soon in bed. November 9. Up about 6.30 AM to go to the beach and thence to breakfast. Bright sunny morning with quite a strong cold wind so I have stayed in and am reading Hillary's account of his part in Fuchs' Antarctic Traverse in the SGY. In the afternoon flew in helicopter to Bonney Lake in Taylor Dry Valley. Very black sandy gravelly soil with a few granite boulders and smaller fragments of black dolerite. Picked up a few fragments which may have small lichens in them. Very poor collecting. After an hour or so flew across to Cape Royds Shackletons hut 1907-8. Rocks similar to those of Cape Evans but crystals smaller. Found nothing although I searched diligently in biting wind. Watched a skuas quill and the rookery of Adélie penguins a short time. I was glad when the heli- copter was ready to fly back to base. On the way I saw several seals basking in the sun on the bay ice. Seals are said to be late in arriving this year.

16 November 10, got up at 730 AM too late for breakfast Sky very clear practically no wind Read book on New Zealand history before lunch Started biography of Wilkes an afternoon visit with Prof Wohlschlag in evening, going to bed about 10 PM. Nov 11, Up at 2 AM nice spring morning no wind Temperature about 15° F but seems warmer Finished biography of Wilkes, skimmed book on Quaternary Era. Jump up to 25° F at supper time Nov 12, Up at 6 AM sky slightly overcast moderate cold wind. Finished letter to Bertha yesterday. Stayed in most of the day and read. Chapel at 10 45' filled to overflowing but it is a small quonset; interior simple but in very good taste, good library of general literature in entry way. Nov 13 Up at 6 AM moderate wind, nearly clear & spent day skimming and reading geology & oceanography. Saw Com- mander King of Weather Station about maps & isotherms in afternoon Rolf Forster The ship after supper, bed at 9 PM Nov 14. Up at 6 AM Cloudy except horizon in north can still see mountains across the Sound Occasionally a peak illuminated through a hole in the clouds Camp apparently getting ready for spring thaw, ice being chipped away from entries & platforms repaired. Snow rapidly disappearing from Hut Point, Cone

communications Hill Observation Hill, Much warmer This morning around did not melting yet by lunch only coast across the Sound visible, snow flurries in the afternoon, flights canceled. Only slight breeze. November 15. Up at 6 AM Warm (26° F) no wind, sunny when I went into the mess hall for Breakfast, but clouds settled in by the time I came out. Only coast line visible across the Sound. At lunch time about half inch snow fallen could barely see huts at air ship. Spent PM with Geo Meyer of Texas looking at a queen parasite? of Prasiolasp. Also fossil glozopterus from Herlick Mite with apparently #ysteriacous parasite and possibly Strepsida on leaves. End of rock with once more Vernicaria case. Meyer is head of USARP office here working on bacteria & fungi and upper air currents, also isolating skin parasites saprophytes of man. At Byrd & McMurdo number of species & colonies drop off rapidly with length of stay in Antarctic. Men who had no bath for a year has less bacteria than men with weekly baths. Discussed a variety of topics linguistic & biological. Returned to quarters at 4:30 PM. Can see across mountains still covered by clouds the Sound. Snow beginning to Melt and pack a little. Seen Spanish accent turns out to be an Italian who has been traveling in Spain.

18 Nov 16. Up at 6 AM Clearing 25° F Breakfast with Philip Smith Packed for flight to Christchurch. Read miscellaneous. Lunch promptly at 1130 Lutell called for me at 12 M for a fast ride to the airstrip. Bulldozers have recently smoothed the road across the bay ice but at our speed it was still bumpy. Boarded the plane at 1245 and air borne about 1 PM. Western mountains beautiful bathed in sunlight with wisps of cloud, large stretches of open water a few minutes out of Mc Murdo then pancake ice and long cracks & narrow leads much of the way to the edge of the pack near Cape Bird? Then above the clouds most of the way until dark with occasional openings arrived in Christchurch about 1620 PM Immigration & Customs thrice by the USAF P station wagon to the Occidental Hotel and my suitcase fetched from the Garnborough. To tired for bath, hung up clothes from suitcase and tumbled into bed about 1130 PM Nov 17. Up a little after 6 AM a good warm shower, dressed assembled laundry, Tea about 7 & breakfast at 8 AM After breakfast went out for a hair cut and shave so I am reasonably presentable. Hotel an edge of

19 business district, not many guests. More luxurious than Gainsborough but management seems lacking. When I arrived last night found a note on the newel post in the lobby to go upstairs to room no 7 and I haven't registered yet. Mens rooms diagonally at opposite end of building but comfortable when you get there. They serve 3 meals a day so I won't have to search for restaurants. Mr Goodale just called, I may be here 4-5 days, so probably will go straight to St Louis. Took a long walk and read Dempers Boomerang. Rather chilly in evening so went to bed to get warm at 7:45 PM. Nov 18. Woke up at 6 AM but went to sleep and got up at 7:45. Bright sunny day but chill wind. Breakfast at 8 then took a long walk. Shops closed and streets nearly deserted. Clouded over in forenoon, laundry came back packed away except long legged underwear which I put on. Still cold. Finished my book. Listened to radio. Slept shower about 5:30 PM. Scarceely more than Scotch mist, streets dry again within an hour. Gave up and went to bed at 7:30 to get warm. Rained off and on during the night. November 19. Got up and dressed at 7:30 AM. Very chilly, hot tea did not warm me much after breakfast at 8:30 sun shining so I took

20 a short walk but it clouded over and began to rain again very gloomy and chilly in the hotel. a few small gas heaters in lounge turned. Put on thermal underwear. Church at 11, quiet minister sermon Jacobsen, up the spearmore tree. Very cold and windy still. Gas heater lit for afternoon & evening in lounge, so reasonably comfortable near it got acquainted with Navy man staying here who has been in McMurdo Supply dept for a year waiting to go home on the same plane as I. He has been very reticent until this afternoon but has opened out nicely. Brother in Annapolis father in army also uncles and cousins in army or navy. Became interested in marine biology and has apparently read a lot. Hopes to go into it when he leaves the Navy... Apparently only has had high school education, Nov 20, Up at 6 had a hot bath but it was so cold I went back to bed until after 7 AM. After breakfast sat by heater in living room and talked with Guppy. Rained in the night still cloudy and windy, but cleared during the morning. Still chilly outside Met a judge who retired at 70 and resumed law practice. Another lawyer retired two years ago and is now a locum tenens for lawyers who take 6 months vacations in

21 Travel usually England. Very alert and interested in international problems, still have a residual head cold, so expect to stay by the heater this afternoon. In evening a long very interesting conversation with the lawyer on the welfare state and its abuses industry etc. Nov 21. Up at 7 breakfast at 8. Clear & sunny still very cold. Good walk just telephone no plane until the 23th. A long walk for exercise and window shopping bought a book of early New Zealand travel which I am enjoying, went to bed at 8 PM to keep warm. Nov 22 Up at 7 breakfast at 8 AM. Wrote to Bertha and Anne. After a walk settled down with book, gas heater on in lounge in afternoon so quite comfortable. Went to bed at 8 1/2 hr to get warm. Nov 23. Up at 7 breakfast at 8 AM. Still cold and cloudy, cold a little better cleared & took a walk in the sun for an hour and a half Thanksgiving dinner of soup, steak and kidney pie and apple sponge (apple sauce, sponge cake with custard sauce), served hot with a cup of tea read in the afternoon and took a walk. Went to bed at 8 PM to keep warm. Nov 24 Up at 7 breakfast at 8 AM Clear and sunny this morning. Long walk until 1 1/2

22 Comfortably warm the first day I haven't needed a sweater. Finished New Zealand Travellers in the afternoon, Goodale called that I leave Sunday PM. Stationwagon will pick me up at 12:30. Nothing to read so went to bed about 8PM official temperature 67°F Nov. 25° Up at 7 breakfast at 8AM clear & sunny. Took a long walk through the Botanic Garden Although stream meanders through it no attempt at aquatics. Trees introduced mostly European and hortic ultural varieties a few from Chile. Masses of Rhododen- drons but very few species. Some beds of annnuals Then visited Canterbury museum at edge of Vestone Garden. Period rooms mid Victorian some showing French influence in furniture, short street of shops of mid 19th century. Pre Maori & Maori civilization individual exhibits fine condition but rather few It all of birds mostly sea birds good exhibits of the extinct birds ship models and stage coach English pottery 18th & early 19th Century, small synoptic collection of Chinese pottery well displayed. Art Museum closed. Returned to hotel about noon. Quite warm, didn't need my sweater. Spent PM on notes for abstract of paper on Antarctic islands in Paris next September if I decide to go. Took a short walk and read evening paper until

dinner at 6 PM. Noon temperature 75° F, people complaining of heat. Paid hotel bill and went to bed about 8 PM Nov 26. Up at 730 AM finished packing, short walk breakfast 830 brought baggage downstairs, mild sunny morning listened to good music on radio took a walk Goodale called for me at 1215 drove to airport had lunch changed money. left 230 arrived Kandi 730-930 Nov 27 Western hemisphere; Canton Island 530-730 with breakfast and walk on beach Hickam AFB at 430 PM Immigration Customs Transient Officers Quarters bath shave clean clothes, supper went to bed early Nov 27 up at 630 breakfast 7, Flight 438 good lunch on plane arrived Travis AFB at 730 PM dinner at Officers Club until 10 then to bed Nov 28 up at 7 called Bertha checked out at 8 AM due to board at 1045 AM fog closed in at 1030 so waited in Protest lounge until 1245 PM then boarded airborne. soon after 1 PM and above fog. Sunset beautiful over sparsely covered mountains, Patterns of cities interesting over Mississippi & Ohio Valley

24 November 29 Landed at Andrews Air Force Base at 1¹⁵ AM. Carry bag carried off by mistake. Took taxi to National Airport, Washington DC arrived about 4 AM. Breakfast at 6³⁰. Called Bertha 7³². Left at 9¹⁵. Eastern Airlines flight 485 Louisville 11¹⁰. Refueled, left at 12:00 M. Evansville CST 11³⁰ AM - 11:50 AM arrived in St Louis about 12⁴² PM about on time.

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155 Nov 6 cigarettes matches (chipiston) $1.25- New Zealand $ = 2.80 Nov 18 laundry $ 1-1-6 19 chambermaid tip 4-6 church collection 10-0 21 Early travels in N.Zealand 3-18-9 22 envelopes and paper 2-9 postage 3-0 26 hotel occidental 10 days 18-3-0 lunch at airport 12-6 flight lunch 9-0 26 Fiji supper $.50 Fiji postage stamps current 7.50 26 bis breakfast Canton Del 1.00 supper .25 27 room 1.60 breakfast 23- lunch. 85- dinner 1.45 28 room 3.90 29 taxi Andrews to Nell Airport 6.75- handling baggage .25 excess baggage .780 breakfast .90 telephone call to Bertha .10

156 Expense Account Sept 25 Physical exam & inoculation 7.00 26 Dept State Passport Division 5-00 Oct 3 Dentist 20.00 9 Influenza & booster shots 2.00 18 Travelers Checks 2.00 18 Wll Eastern Airlines ticket 75.30 19 cold chisel .71 20 excess baggage & handling 6.45 Taxi airport to hotel 1.60 21 Hotel Stelter 16.48 Taxi to airport breakfast 31 dinner 55- lunch for flight 90 22 lunches for flights 2.60 meals 2.95 bus fares 55 23 room 2.00 breakfast 5-0 New Zealand $ = $1.50 26 lunch 4-0 27 pen 1-6 lunch 6-0 book 6-0 28 lunch 5-6 29 church collection 2-6 30 flight lunch 8-6 lunch at airport 10-0 chocolate bar 3-6 31 Hotel Pennsbrough 8-8-0 Nov 16 haircut & shave 8-6 book 6-3