1948 Archbold Cape York Expedition : Daily Journal G. M. Tate
Page 21
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Transcription
Friday, 13 February 1948. Last night about 8.30 PM we passed the first light at the Fiji group and this morning at 6.30 we began to enter Suva harbor, On our right there was a quite populous and large town and on the left rows of formidable mountains faded back into the distance. Most of us, myself included, had arranged to omit breakfast on board, preferring to tkae a chance on what we could get ashore as our time was limited to 2½ hours. My cabin mates were all up and wandering around when I got up. There were not very many people on [illegible] the dock [illegible] when we tied up and two ocean-going ships at the wharf before us, showed that a steamer here is not the novelty it is in Pago. A few Fijian native police were there, dressed in blue tunics with silver buttons, white lava-lavas with scalloped bottoms and nothing on their huge fuzzy knots of hair. Last night Wilmot feeling it to be a matter of duty, had radioed to the Director of Education at Suva who was at the dock to meet him. I was included in the party and we were taken to his house, a lovely cool and open sort of place on a headland overlooking the sea, for breakfast. We were introduced to his wife and had an excellent breakfast, after which our shoes were cleaned for us as we were to be presented to his Excellency, Mr. Brian Freeston, the Governor of Fiji. I was wearing khaki trousers and shirt and was considered appropriately dressed; Wilmot had an old blue shirt and tweed trousers and had to be given a tie and a linen coat. Hayden, the Director of Education, evidently had carte blanche on all taxis, of which there are many in Suva, and our progress from breakfast on was a glorious ride [illegible] around and through the beautiful grounds of the Residency. Wilmot had educational business to discuss with Hayden and His Excellency so I was turned over to a Major Sears? to be taken care of. After the business had been concluded, the Governor drove us around in his official car with the Union Jack attached to the front. Sentries sprung to attention and presented arms all over the place, we were able to buy a bottle of whisky for 12/-, and in general we had a most delightful time. I am grateful both to Wilmot and to Hayden. Back on board shortly after 10.30 AM and away at 11 AM. The opening in the coral reef, which I had not seen on our way in, was clearly marked though the sea was very quiet and breaking only in small ripples over the reef. Once through the reef the pilot was dropped and we steamed away; now it is 2.30 PM and we still have islands in the distance east and west of us. The Governor of Fiji has an area of about 250,000 square miles under his control. There must be a population of several thousand in Suva and Indian indentured labor is becoming something of a problem. The Indians were brought in some years ago and are an industrious lot, good workers and breeders. The Fijian native, is a delightful and cheerful soul but does not like to work. Consequently the Indians now outnumber the native Fijians and worry them somewhat. The approximate figures of population run something like 130,000 Indians, 128,000 Fijians and 30,000 shites. The Fijians, while worried slightly, seem perfectly willing to let the white population worry about the Indians. Burns, Phil have a very large installation here and run a large (almost) department store. I had neither time nor need to introduce myself there particu- larly in view of [illegible] our very short stay. Compared with Pago, however, Suva is a bustling metropolis though further out on its island, Vita Laveu?, the Fijian be- comes a very primitive fellow.