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Transcription
narrow, or across the bottom if it is very wide. The
shape is variable, but it should taper somewhat toward
a rounded bottom without coming to a point. Speci-
mens lodged in a sharp corner are difficult to extract.
At the top edge the bag should measure about two
inches more than the circumference of the hoop,
much better too large than too small. In depth, twice
the diameter of the hoop is satisfactory, though some
collectors find 1 1/2 diameters sufficient, while for
others 2 1/2 is not too much. Several successful
shapes for net bags are shown in fig. 4.
Fig. 4. Variations in the cut of insect nets.
Measure your frame carefully with the tape measure
and plan your bag to fit. If you do not care to make
a paper pattern for it, you may draw the design onto
Fig. 5. Stitches useful in sewing an insect net by hand.
1. Running stitch, fastened.
2. Back stitch.
3. Overcasting.
the folded cloth with a crayon, or lay it out with pins.
Cut the cloth to shape, and pin the edges together to
hold them while you sew. Make the seam about half
an inch wide, using a sewing machine, if you have
one. If you have not, a small back stitch or a running
stitch fastened every inch or two will do. These
stitches are diagrammed in fig. 5.
When the seam has been stitched once, turn the
raw edges under, together, and sew them down onto
the body of the net. If you are using a machine,
stitch as close to the fold as you can, if you must work
by hand, overcasting will be more secure. This kind
of flat seam is called a fell, and is illustrated in fig. 6.
Fig. 6. A felled seam, used in
sewing an insect net.
It is used because it gives the specimens no crack in
which to hide, no matter which side of the net they
occupy.
Make a strip of muslin or other strong cloth about
four inches wide and an inch and a half longer than
the top edge of the net. At each end of this, make
a half inch hem, as shown in fig. 7. Pin this band
Fig. 7. Hems, hand and machine stitched.
around the inside of the net bag, matching one long
edge with the top edge of the net. Join them with
a half inch seam. If the ends of the band overlap
a little, there will be less danger of ripping the net at
the point of juncture when it is in use.
When stitched on, turn up the muslin band to form
a continuation of the bag, with the free edge of the
band at the top. Turn the raw edges of the seam up
onto the outside of the band. Place the bag inside the
hoop with one hemmed end of the band on either side
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